Homemade air hockey. Homemade air hockey Homemade air hockey

The birthday of the boss at work was approaching and I wanted to give an original gift, but what can you give something unusual, and even to a wealthy person? And wandering around the Internet, I came across the fact that the bourgeoisie make their own home air hockey.

There was an idea, the challenge was accepted and it was decided to make the table full-size. But the original design has been redesigned.

So, the store and materials: 8 mm thick laminated MDF, sawn in the office where it was purchased. Sheet length 1850, cutting width 920 mm. it turned out to be three pieces, two of which will be the bottom and the table.

The sides will be made of 140x45 boards (solid, solid).
Borrowing a router bit from a friend, I cut grooves for the bottom and table top.

Fitting.

And with sides.

I strongly advise you to do everything in the garage/outside/workshop, everything in the apartment was covered in dust and sawdust, it took another month to raked it out of the corners, from cabinets and shelves.

Next stage! This is an activity for the patient, I drilled holes with a diameter of 2 mm in increments of 20 mm (the bourgeoisie have a smaller diameter every inch, but here I took the advice that thin holes will clog faster, and it’s easier to break a thin drill). Total 4096 holes. To simplify the task, I made a template from thin MDF.
The process took 2 evenings and took 3 drills.

Using a milling cutter he cut through the “gate”

And he covered the table with a thinner board, making pockets for pucks behind the goal. The process of drinking the boards was something I forgot to capture, so there is a photo of the already closed one.

Another photo, with a test washer made of MDF (it didn’t last long, it fluffed up quickly around the edges).

To clean the table itself from dust, I decided to harness the robot.

On an advertisement site I found a ducted centrifugal fan to use for supercharging (it is quieter than the leaf blowers and vacuum cleaners used by the bourgeoisie, and the used version is cheaper). I took a diameter of 200 mm, but as practice has shown, there was an excess supply and I could get by with 150 (I’m not sure about 100).
I cut a hole in the bottom and secured the fan using corners.

I also screwed two boards from the bottom to fasten the stands-legs (Ikea).

I covered the entire tree with several layers of colorless water-based varnish. And with markers from a fixed price I applied the markings, and since I am a gifted fan of the SKA hockey club, I applied the emblem on the field.
Also, the lens did not capture the process of making bits (several circles of plywood with a handle from a construction store and velvet glued underneath, but after a week of use the plywood began to break from the washer and in the end we bought factory ones. And it turned out to be not expensive), as well as washers (one of MDF, painted with a marker, also quickly became disheveled, the second is made of vinyl plastic, but the marker paint from it sometimes left streaks on the field, so they soon changed them to factory ones).
And here's the result.

All fans of the popular game air hockey should like this post.
One craftsman decided to please his son, who loves active board games.
He made an air hockey table with his own hands.
Let's take a look at his creation.

1. Air box. For the bottom of the air box we need 9 mm plywood, and for the top 4 strips of laminate flooring. The size of the box will be 1210x770 mm. Cut the required piece of plywood slightly larger than the size of the laminate (2-3 mm).

2. We connect the laminate strips together “into a rigid hook” provided by the plates. By the way, the laminate was not chosen by chance. Before this, there were thoughts of making a base from plywood, boards, furniture panels, chipboard/fibreboard/MDF. But all were rejected due to low strength, softness of the material and suspicion of damage during drilling (the holes must be small and even!).

3. Mark the grid for drilling holes. We retreat 30 mm from each edge (this is the size of each side) and another 10 mm in order not to make extra holes at the side. The pitch between the holes was 20 mm.

4. Take a drill and drill about 2200 holes. The diameter of each hole is 1.5 mm. This is the most time-consuming and tedious operation when building a table. She ate about 4 hours of my life and four drills. I used 7 drills in total (they quickly became dull). I did everything in the bathroom, because the mess was immeasurable (because I was too lazy to clean it up later). Then I used an awl to widen all the holes on the back of the laminate.

The birthday of the boss at work was approaching and I wanted to give an original gift, but what can you give something unusual, and even to a wealthy person? And wandering around the Internet, I came across the fact that the bourgeoisie make their own home air hockey.

There was an idea, the challenge was accepted and it was decided to make the table full-size. But the original design has been redesigned.

So, the store and materials: 8 mm thick laminated MDF, sawn in the office where it was purchased. Sheet length 1850, cutting width 920 mm. it turned out to be three pieces, two of which will be the bottom and the table.

The sides will be made of 140x45 boards (solid, solid).
Borrowing a router bit from a friend, I cut grooves for the bottom and table top.

Fitting.

And with sides.

I strongly advise you to do everything in the garage/outside/workshop, everything in the apartment was covered in dust and sawdust, it took another month to raked it out of the corners, from cabinets and shelves.

Next stage! This is an activity for the patient, I drilled holes with a diameter of 2 mm in increments of 20 mm (the bourgeoisie have a smaller diameter every inch, but here I took the advice that thin holes will clog faster, and it’s easier to break a thin drill). Total 4096 holes. To simplify the task, I made a template from thin MDF.
The process took 2 evenings and took 3 drills.

Using a milling cutter he cut through the “gate”

And he covered the table with a thinner board, making pockets for pucks behind the goal. The process of drinking the boards was something I forgot to capture, so there is a photo of the already closed one.

Another photo, with a test washer made of MDF (it didn’t last long, it fluffed up quickly around the edges).

To clean the table itself from dust, I decided to harness the robot.

On an advertisement site I found a ducted centrifugal fan to use for supercharging (it is quieter than the leaf blowers and vacuum cleaners used by the bourgeoisie, and the used version is cheaper). I took a diameter of 200 mm, but as practice has shown, there was an excess supply and I could get by with 150 (I’m not sure about 100).
I cut a hole in the bottom and secured the fan using corners.

I also screwed two boards from the bottom to fasten the stands-legs (Ikea).

I covered the entire tree with several layers of colorless water-based varnish. And with markers from a fixed price I applied the markings, and since I am a gifted fan of the SKA hockey club, I applied the emblem on the field.
Also, the lens did not capture the process of making bits (several circles of plywood with a handle from a construction store and velvet glued underneath, but after a week of use the plywood began to break from the washer and in the end we bought factory ones. And it turned out to be not expensive), as well as washers (one of MDF, painted with a marker, also quickly became disheveled, the second is made of vinyl plastic, but the marker paint from it sometimes left streaks on the field, so they soon changed them to factory ones).
And here's the result:

Well, after unpacking and delivery.

A total of a week of work in the evenings and about 4k rubles in expenses.

All fans of the popular game air hockey should like this post.
One craftsman decided to please his son, who loves active board games.
He made an air hockey table with his own hands.
Let's take a look at his creation.

1. Air box. For the bottom of the air box we need 9 mm plywood, and for the top 4 strips of laminate flooring. The size of the box will be 1210x770 mm. Cut the required piece of plywood slightly larger than the size of the laminate (2-3 mm).

2. We connect the laminate strips together “into a rigid hook” provided by the plates. By the way, the laminate was not chosen by chance. Before this, there were thoughts of making a base from plywood, boards, furniture panels, chipboard/fibreboard/MDF. But all were rejected due to low strength, softness of the material and suspicion of damage during drilling (the holes must be small and even!).

3. Mark the grid for drilling holes. We retreat 30 mm from each edge (this is the size of each side) and another 10 mm in order not to make extra holes at the side. The pitch between the holes was 20 mm.

4. Take a drill and drill about 2200 holes. The diameter of each hole is 1.5 mm. This is the most time-consuming and tedious operation when building a table. She ate about 4 hours of my life and four drills. I used 7 drills in total (they quickly became dull). I did everything in the bathroom, because it’s a huge mess (because I’m too lazy to clean it up later). Then I used an awl to widen all the holes on the back of the laminate.

5. I bought two 45x15 3m slats and sawed them into 4 parts (strictly according to the size of the plywood). These will be the sides of the air box.

6. We drill holes in the plywood (it is necessary, otherwise it will crack) and slats and place it all on the bottom with screws (you can nail it without drilling, but then you need to bite off the sharp end of the nails with wire cutters). In general, you will have to drill a lot here, so you will dream about the drill for a very long time. An anecdote on the topic: Today a neighbor knocked on my door at 3 am... Out of fear, the hammer drill almost fell out of my hands...

7. Electronics. We rummage through various computer junk and find 6 fans of varying power and a power button.

8. We also take the power supply from the old scanner. PSU characteristics: 12V 1.25A.

9. We sum up the consumption of all fans 0.25+0.22+0.22+0.12+0.12+0.12=1.05A. Yeah, there’s still room for lighting the gates with LEDs – that’s good!

10. Mark the fan holes and places for the mounting screws. We drill holes for the fans and holes for the mountings of these fans.

11. Kote’s youngest son came to help.

12. File the edges of the holes and attach the fans. Long stripes on the plywood indicate the joints of the laminate sheets.

13. Since the structure is heavy and there must be space at the bottom of the table for air leaks, I bought 5 rubber feet (door stops). They are made of very durable rubber and will help keep the table stable. The photo shows a leg with a screw threaded through it.

14. Attach the switch and connect the wires from the power supply to it.

15. Place the fan wires on the terminals.

16. We bring out the wires to the gate and glue the LED strip. We solder and check. Fill the solder with a glue gun.

17. We saw the remaining part of the 45x15mm plank into 9 pieces and fasten it from below with screws along the seams of the laminate. We also place the rubber feet on the screws from below and secure them from the inside with a nut and a locknut. This is the picture we get. The power supply wire enters the table in the lower right corner.

18. Take regular sealant (I use transparent plumbing sealant) and coat all the cracks along the edges, as well as the fans along the edge. We also glue the dangling wires and the power supply wire to the plywood with a glue gun. “Have you sealed the wheel? - Yeah, I glued it all night. The owner of the glue will come in the morning. ©Boomer"

19. It turns out like this.

20. We buy a side rail 30x15 mm 2mx2 pcs. and cut it into the required parts (strictly to the size of the plywood) and leave space for the gate. We connect the laminate and place it on the table, having previously coated the slats attached to the plywood with sealant on top (we also coat all 9 supports under the seams of the laminate). We drill holes through this whole hamburger and fasten it with screws.

21. For the beauty and strength of the side, I took two mirror-polished aluminum corners 30x15 mm, 2 meters long. We saw it.

22. Let's try it on. By the way, on the left in the photo is an excellent device for the knees - I recommend it.

23. Senior mate.

25. And glue it around the perimeter. There is a margin of 1.5 cm at the bottom, 0.5-1 cm at the top.

26. It turns out like this.

27. The plank and film will be on top with double-sided tape (it doesn’t really stick to plywood and wood, but a corner will hold it in place).

28. And we seal it from below with a furniture bracket.

29. That's it.

30. General view from below.

31. Attach the metal strips to the sides.

32. The children said ready, took the table away, and demanded bats and a puck. Let me play a little.

33. Gate. We cut the plywood into several parts.

34. Connect with a clamp, drill holes and screw in screws.

35. Assembling the gate. Let's try it on the table.

36. General view with the gate.

37. Illumination of the gate from the inside in the dark.

38. A closer look at the gate design.

39. When checking the goal, when the disc hit the goal hard, it bounced off the soft wood (plank) and flew back onto the table. To eliminate the defect, use double-sided tape to glue the remaining aluminum strip to the inclined rail immediately behind the gate.