Homemade snowmobile. We make a snowmobile with our own hands - it couldn’t be easier! Drawings of a homemade snowmobile "otter"

An snowmobile is a special type of all-terrain vehicle driven by the rotation of a propeller at the rear of the vehicle. It is used for movement on snow and ice by lovers of fishing, hunting, signalmen, athletes and those who simply want to go for a ride. Thanks to the simplicity of the design and the availability of parts in a home workshop or garage, it is possible to make a snowmobile with your own hands.

In general, any snowmobile consists of a body, chassis, propeller-motor system, brake system, and steering. The body is understood as a supporting frame, sometimes covered with plastic or duralumin. The chassis consists of wide curved skis that distribute the load from the weight of the sled and the driver onto the snow.

A variety of design solutions allows you to choose an engine for snowmobiles based on the needs of a specific user: low-power engines from chainsaws are suitable for light mini-sleighs of the “Zipper” type, while larger engines will become the basis for massive high-capacity machines with cabins and soft suspensions. The presence of the latter two brings the ride comfort closer to that of a car while maintaining mobility. Snowmobiles will go where a car without special training will never go: they can conquer both untouched deep snow and thin ice.

Some models can even cross water obstacles. Such amphibious snowmobiles are called airboats; their chassis is made of an air cushion, the bottom of which is protected by plastic scales. The protection allows you to move on gliders even on dry ground. However, you should not abuse this, since a breakdown of the rubber can completely disable the sled. In homemade units, the role of an air cushion is played by an inflatable boat.

The maximum speed that snowmobiles can reach varies depending on their individual characteristics:

• the literature indicates a limit of 150 km/h;
• on compacted snow, an ordinary sled will travel up to 50 km/h;
• on compacted untouched snow - 80 km/h;
• on ice - 110 km/h.

However, it is worth remembering that as speed increases, the stability of the sled decreases and the risk of capsizing while moving increases. Load capacity also depends on the individual design. Compact models can barely carry a driver with his equipment, while an aerobus with a cabin based on an engine from, for example, a Zhiguli will carry up to five people in full gear and with their catch. The range varies depending on the engine size and load. On average, 40 liters of fuel is enough for 300 km. It is recommended to pack fuel tanks for a long journey.

At the initial stage, the necessary characteristics of the sled are determined. The parameters of the aeroprop and engine are set, a strength calculation of the supporting structure of the body and components is carried out, and the type of steering and braking system are assigned. Upon completion of the calculations, a package of design documentation is created, after which they begin to assemble the snowmobile with their own hands according to the drawings.

A welded frame or frame is used as the supporting structure of the body. In general, the frame will have to be cooked in any case. Simply, in a frame structure, it will serve as the basis for covering the cabin, and in the absence of a frame, the main load will be borne by the frame. The frame can be solid or broken.

The broken frame consists of two semi-frames, hinged. The front half houses the cockpit with controls and rotates in conjunction with the rotation of the steering wheel, to which it is connected via a worm gear. The rear carries the power unit. Both the solid frame and the supporting body are based on spars - longitudinal rods at the bottom of the structure.

The cabin is hingedly mounted on the frame through spacers, and the spars are rigidly welded into the supporting body. The frame is welded from hollow metal pipes, the dimensions and wall thicknesses of which are determined by calculation. A wooden frame structure is allowed, with the elements glued together with casein glue and gauze.

In general, the frame has an aerodynamic shape; it is designed to be narrowed and, if possible, rounded at the front. It is reinforced along the length by frames (transverse contours), located equidistant from each other. The assembly of the frame begins with the lower elements: spars and struts, to which the frames are welded.

• plywood sheets;
• duralumin;
• plastic.

The undercarriage of the snowmobile is based on skis made of 10 mm thick plywood, reinforced longitudinally with wooden beams and sheathed on top with stainless steel. The front parts of the skis are bent on the slipway after dipping in boiling water. The body is installed through shock absorbers in the form of springs or leaf springs. The springs consist of three parts and are hingedly mounted to the body using an M6 bolt. Additional stability in turns is provided by an undercut made of a pipe with a diameter of 8 mm flattened at the ends, installed on the front parts of the skis.

Homemade snowmobiles are equipped with brakes in the form of scrapers placed on the edges of the rear skis. The scrapers are activated by a pedal connected through a cable to the driver’s foot. When you press the pedal, the scrapers lower, increasing the friction of the sled with the snow and slowing it down. Steering is carried out either through a worm gear connected to the rotating elements, or directly by a column connecting the steering wheel to the front ski.

When assembling an amphibious snowmobile with your own hands, you don’t have to bother with welding the body and installing the chassis. It is enough to place the finished propeller-driven installation on an inflatable boat and protect the bottom of the vessel with plastic scales. The scales are collected from scraps of unnecessary plastic. The size and weight of the engine should approximately match the characteristics of typical outboard motors. An excessively massive engine will negatively affect the capacity, controllability and stability of the glider.

The propeller-motor system is placed on a wooden tabletop covered with plywood; rubber pads can be used in the support structure to dampen the vibration of the motor. The engine is fixed using brackets and struts. The power unit is selected individually. Larger volume does not guarantee better ride quality. Therefore, you should not try to install a motor from an old VAZ on a small sled.

It is better to use a ready-made propeller, providing it with additional protection in the form of a metal mesh on both sides. An open propeller rotating at high speed can cause serious harm to the health of the driver and others. The geometry of the propeller is selected based on the power of the motor and its rotation speed. For an engine from an IZH-56 motorcycle with a power of 15 horsepower at a speed of 1400-1600 per minute, a diameter of 1500 mm with a blade pitch of 500-600 mm is suitable; at a speed of 2200-2400 per minute, the diameter should be 1200-1300 mm with a pitch of 650- 700 mm.

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Experience in the field of do-it-yourself construction of various motor vehicles allowed us to create a successful homemade snowmobile design, characterized by good driving performance. Snowmobiles are easy to manufacture, have a good appearance, and relatively high speed. The selected scheme is most suitable for simple and reliable snowmobiles for individual use. We recommend it to lovers of snowmobile sports, signalmen, fishermen, hunters, and everyone who wants make your own snowmobile and have a reliable vehicle in snowy areas of the country.

You can make a snow sleigh with your own hands quite simply. This is due to the fact that the design does not have a complex transmission, clutch, wheels, or hydraulic brakes. Such equipment can be used even in difficult road conditions, where it is difficult for even a caterpillar tractor to pass. The high efficiency of the installation and significant speed of passage have made this type of homemade transport one of the most common.

The basis for the design of snowmobiles

The base of the structure is a bottom frame made in the form of a flat panel. It will have to be made independently from pine beams-spars, foam filling, wooden cross members, as well as durable sheathing made of plywood. Such a panel has high quality characteristics, expressed in low weight and high rigidity; in addition, the canvas exhibits torsional bending, but at the same time has a very small thickness.

If you decide to make a snowmobile with your own hands, then to make the spars you will need to select straight-layer boards, the thickness of each of which should be 40 mm. Using them, you will have to plan curved parts, the height of which is 50 mm. For the side elements it is necessary to prepare boards with a thickness of 15 mm. Whereas the front cross member, on which the steering wheel joints will be mounted, should be made of 60x50 mm pine block. In order to mount the frame frame, made in the form of a panel, it is necessary to use epoxy glue. The same composition should be used when attaching foam blocks to the frame; in addition, glue should also be used when lining the bottom panel, during which a 5-mm piece of plywood will have to be used.

In order to make a snowmobile with your own hands, you will need to build a body, which may be based on a design that is classic for this type of transport, made on the basis of a light frame. The latter must be made of thin-walled metal pipes, which are fastened together by welding. It is necessary to select workpieces whose outer diameter is 15 mm. Afterwards, it is necessary to strengthen the form-building elements on the frame, which are stringers. Fastening must be done using soft wire.

Features of windshield manufacturing

In order to make a snowmobile with your own hands, you will need a windshield, which can be borrowed from the ZAZ-968, for which the frame is fixed to the frame using a welding machine. The space between them formed by the stringers must be carefully filled with foam blocks. As soon as the surface of the foam is processed and covered with putty, the body must be covered with fiberglass, which is laid in two layers.

Making doors

To make the doors, it is necessary to use the same technology that was used to make the body. That is, here you will have to prepare the tubes that will form the basis of the frame. In addition, plywood stringers and foam filling will be used. As for the window located, as well as those windows that will be on the doors, the use of 4 mm plexiglass will be useful here.

If you decide to make a snowmobile with your own hands, it is recommended that you first view the drawings to choose one of them.

The side parts of the rear area of ​​the snowmobile body, which go into the keels, must be trimmed with pre-prepared plywood sheets. When carrying out this work, it is necessary to use 4 mm sheets. Keels are areas located behind the doors of the installation. The plywood must be fixed to a tubular frame, and it is recommended to use M4 screws. After this type of work is completed, you can proceed to gluing the external surfaces; in this case, you will need to use fiberglass, which must be laid in two layers. The inner surface of the plywood sheathing must be protected from moisture; for this it is necessary to use parquet varnish, which is applied in two layers.

Propeller installation

Do-it-yourself snow sleds, the drawings of which must be prepared in advance, are based on the RMZ-640 propeller-driven installation, which has a V-belt gearbox. A number of motorized hang gliders, as well as airplanes, are equipped with similar engines. It is worth noting that the propeller-engine installation of the described design is almost no different from that built into the popular two-seater trike. With a propeller with a diameter of 1350 mm, the unit is capable of developing a static thrust of 120 kg, which will be quite sufficient for the design described.

Before you make a snowmobile with your own hands, you need to take into account that the propeller-motor installation on the panel frame must be fixed using six braces. They must be made from metal pipes Ø30x1.5 mm.

In order to reduce aerodynamic drag, wooden fairings must be glued to the pipes using epoxy resin, which will give the braces a drop-shaped cross-section.

Working on a propeller

A do-it-yourself snowmobile propeller can be made using the same technology that was used by the German company Hoffman. Before making the screw, you need to make a blank using 60x20 mm pine bars, which will be glued with epoxy resin. When carrying out this process, the layers of wood must be positioned symmetrically to the mating planes. After gluing is completed, the workpiece must be planed so that it matches the dimensions of the screw. For templates, you need to use a screw drawing. But the templates themselves should be prepared from plywood. To carry out the work, it is necessary to use several options - a plan view, as well as a side view, lower and upper blade templates. If you decide to make a snowmobile with your own hands, photos of which are presented in the article, you need to make markings and use an ax and a plane in the next step. But the final work on finishing the propeller should be done in the slipway. Its base must be made from a 60 mm board.

In order to determine how accurately the screw was processed, it is necessary to apply blue to the lower templates. You have to put the workpiece on the rod and press it. This will allow you to get impressions of the blades. Once the blue marks are removed, use a rasp to press the screw onto the templates. Similar manipulations will have to be carried out until traces of templates along the length begin to be imprinted on the workpiece. The upper area of ​​the screw must be processed in a slipway, after which the excess between the sections must be removed. In order to control the correctness of this work, it is necessary to use a steel ruler.

The DIY snowmobile propeller must be balanced after it is completed. To do this, you need to install a steel platen in the central hole, and then mount the propeller on balancing rulers. If a lighter blade is found, it must be loaded with lead, which must be glued in the form of strips. As soon as you can achieve balance, you need to cast a round rod from the strips, which is attached with epoxy glue to the hole made in the blade.

Finishing the propeller

You can make a snowmobile from a chainsaw with your own hands, but if you decide to use the technology described above in your work, then at the next stage you need to cover the propeller with fiberglass in two layers. Afterwards you need to grind to complete the balancing. Next, the surface is primed and also painted with auto enamel. The ski located in front must be glued with epoxy resin using strips of plywood, the thickness of which is 4 mm. In this case, stainless steel strips of 0.8 mm should also be used. The gluing thickness is equivalent to 30 mm. The front area of ​​the ski should look like an arc made of a 16 mm metal pipe. In the middle part, this element must have guide cuts made of stainless steel sheets of 3 mm. The ski will have a spring-hydraulic shock absorber, borrowed from the Ural.

The rear skis have a box-like appearance. Their soles are glued together from plywood and stainless steel, but the sides must be prepared from 25 mm boards. These elements are not cushioned. The steering is taken from the SZD motorized stroller. You can also get a heater from it. The brakes are installed on the rear skis. The drive is combined: from the pedal to the lever it will be a cable drive, while from the lever to the scraper it must be made rigid. If you want to make the installation more complex, you can make your own radio-controlled snowmobile.

I made this snowmobile literally in a couple of weekends in the garage at the dacha. Although its design at first glance looks very simple, nevertheless, in terms of cross-country ability in deep loose or wet snow, it is not inferior to most industrially produced snowmobiles.

Several years ago, I built a snowmobile for my nine-year-old daughter with a homemade track made from conveyor belts and plastic water pipes as lugs. At first I had doubts about the reliability of such a track and how the plastic parts would behave in the cold. But during two years of winter operation, no breakdowns or severe wear of the pipes occurred. This inspired me to create a light snowmobile for myself with the same homemade track.

Understanding full well that the smaller the weight of the snowmobile and the larger the supporting area of ​​the caterpillar, the better its cross-country ability in loose and deep snow, I tried to make the design as light as possible.
The operating principle of the snowmobile is very simple (Fig. 1). There are four wheels installed inside the caterpillar, which, when moving, roll along a conveyor belt on which lugs are attached. And the caterpillar drive from the motor is carried out by a chain through the driven shaft with special drive sprockets. I took them from the Buran snowmobile.”

With an engine from a conventional walk-behind tractor with an automatic clutch with a power of only 6 hp. you won't accelerate quickly. I planned to ride the snowmobile not on compacted paths, but on loose snow, so I abandoned the soft track suspension and skis to reduce the weight of the snowmobile and simplify the entire design.

First I made the caterpillar. A plastic water pipe with a diameter of 40 mm was cut into blanks for lugs 470 mm long. Then I sawed each piece lengthwise with a circular saw into two equal parts.
Using the device shown in Fig. 2, I used a wood circular saw to cut plastic pipes for lugs lengthwise.

I attached the lugs to the conveyor belt with two 6 mm diameter furniture bolts with a large semicircular head. When making a caterpillar, it is very important to maintain the same distance between the lugs, otherwise they will run into the teeth of the drive sprockets and the caterpillar will begin to slip and slide off the rollers.

To drill holes in the conveyor belt for mounting bolts with a diameter of 6 mm, I made a jig. The holes in the tape were drilled using a wood drill with a special sharpening.

Using such a jig, you can drill 6 holes in the conveyor belt at once to attach three caterpillar lugs.

At the store I purchased four inflatable rubber wheels from a garden cart, two drive sprockets from a Buran snowmobile and two sealed bearings No. 205 for the caterpillar drive shaft.

I asked a turner to make the drive shaft of the caterpillar and supports for the bearings. I made the snowmobile frame myself from 25x25 mm square pipes.

Since the axes of the ski and steering hinges are on the same line and in the same plane, you can use a continuous tie rod without ball ends.

Ski turning bushings are easy to make. I welded 3/4″ female plumbing couplers to the front cross member of the frame. I screwed pipes with external threads into them, to which I welded the bipod of the ski steering rack.

I recommend using skis from the Argomak children's snow scooter. They are lighter and more flexible, but they need to be equipped with corners for attaching to the snowmobile's rotating stand and a metal undercut at the bottom - for better control of the snowmobile when moving on crusty or compacted snow.

The chain tension is adjusted by moving the motor.

Driving a snowmobile is very easy. When the engine speed increases with the throttle handle located on the steering wheel, the automatic centrifugal clutch is engaged and the snowmobile begins to move. Since the estimated speed of the snowmobile is low (only about 10-15 km/h) and depends on the density of the snow, the snowmobile is not equipped with brakes. It is enough to reduce the engine speed and the snowmobile stops.

I will share a few tips that may be useful when repeating this design.

1. I cut the pipe for the tracks lengthwise using a hand-held circular saw for wood, first on one side, then on the other. This makes it smoother than cutting both walls at once. It is more convenient to process small workpieces. If you immediately cut a long pipe lengthwise, then the plastic will melt and the saw blade will jam.

2. Caterpillars can be made of any width. And each designer has the right to choose what is more convenient for him: to make a wide but short track or a narrow and long one. Just remember that with a large caterpillar the snowmobile will be difficult to control and the engine will be more loaded, and with a small one it may fail in loose deep snow.

3. Some of my photos show that there are plastic “barrels” installed inside the caterpillar.” These are guide stops for the slide, which should prevent the caterpillar from sliding off the rollers. But during the operation of the snowmobile, the caterpillar did not slide off the rollers even without slipping, so “barrels” can not be installed, which will reduce the weight of the snowmobile.

4. At the end of winter, I completely disassembled the snowmobile to determine its weight. The weight of its individual components turned out to be as follows: caterpillar - 9 kg;
drive shaft assembly - 7 kg; two pairs of wheels with axles - 9 kg; engine and steering wheel - 25 kg;
pair of skis - 5 kg;
frame - 15 kg;
double seat with posts - 6 kg.
In total, everything together weighs 76 kg.
The weight of some parts can be further reduced. Nevertheless, the weight indicator for a snowmobile with a track of this size is quite satisfactory.

The geometric dimensions of my snowmobile are as follows: snowmobile frame length - 2 m; the distance between the axes of the support wheels (rollers) is 107 cm; The width of the caterpillar is 47 cm. The pitch of the caterpillar lugs depends on the thickness of the conveyor belt and it must be selected experimentally (I got 93 mm).
I do not provide exact dimensions and drawings of the snowmobile parts, since anyone who plans to repeat the design will be guided by those parts and components that they can purchase or manufacture on their own.

An snowmobile is a unique vehicle; this type of transport has no equal in cross-country ability on snow. Therefore, they are considered an indispensable assistant for any fisherman. In terms of design, it is a vehicle with skids for driving on snow, and it moves with the help of an aircraft propeller that rotates a gasoline engine.

The sled is capable of reaching speeds of up to 150 km/h, which is an undeniable advantage over snowmobiles. With a cabin and soft suspension, a snowmobile can be the most comfortable vehicle after a car. But the car will not drive through impassable spaces covered with snow.

At first glance, everything is very complicated, but if you get into it, there are no difficulties, and you can really make a snowmobile yourself using available materials, without spending a lot of effort.

A snowmobile is essentially a chainsaw, but with relatively little power it can reach high speeds. For example:

• Engine speed – 4700.
• Power – 15 hp
• The maximum propeller force is 62 kg.
• Screw diameter – 1300 mm.
• The highest number of propeller revolutions is 2300.
• The gear ratio is 1.85.
• The area of ​​the runners is 0.68 square meters.
• The capacity of the fuel tank is 40-50 liters.
• The highest speed is 40-50 km/h.
• The highest speed on hard snow is 50-70 km/h.
• The highest speed on snow, in open spaces is 70-80 km/h.
• The highest speed on snow crust is 100-110 km/h.
• Maximum weight (without driver) – 90.7 kg.
• Maximum weight with cargo – 183 kg.

Load capacity is the total weight of the vehicle with passengers and equipment. The snowmobile can accommodate up to 5 people. Therefore, when fully equipped, the weight of the vehicle can reach 300 kg.

In other words, a snowmobile is a fairly capacious type of transport that allows you to transport people and cargo over considerable distances in conditions of total snow cover. They may also not be replaceable in fishing or hunting conditions.

Movement range

If the vehicle does not have a powerful engine, then one tank with a capacity of 40 liters is enough to travel up to 300 km.

Fuel reserve

As a rule, a standard tank of 40-50 liters is installed. In addition, on the road you need to take a container of fuel with a volume of 20 liters. This fuel is quite enough to cover a significant distance without refueling. In any case, you need to correctly calculate the fuel supply, since in the snowy wilderness, it is unlikely that you will be able to refuel.

On ordinary compacted snow, a snowmobile can accelerate up to 50 km/h, and on untouched, long-standing snow – up to 80 km/h. The presence of hard crust allows the structure to accelerate to 110 km/h. At such a speed, there is a danger of capsizing, since the stability of the snowmobile decreases.

Design of brakes and engine starting

Since snowmobiles are an exclusive type of transport, the brake system has a far from classical design. The design of the brakes resembles a kind of scrapers that are mounted on the ends of the rear skis. They are activated by cables coming from the brake pedal. When you press the pedals, the scrapers go down, which slows down the speed of the snowmobile.

A snowmobile for fishermen in winter, as useful as a boat in summer, although you can’t go very far with a watercraft in summer. And, nevertheless, on a snowmobile you can safely get to the center of any body of water, if there is strong ice. Although, if you compare it with a car, you can travel on a snowmobile in deep snow, which you cannot do with a car. In addition, the thickness of the ice required is somewhat less, since the snowmobile is much lighter.

How to make a snowmobile with your own hands

As practice shows, making a snowmobile is not so difficult, although you will have to stock up on time, tools, materials for work and drawings. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain precision in manufacturing, since here the laws of physics and aerodynamics come to the fore. The quality operation of all units, and therefore the durability of the vehicle, will depend on such knowledge.

The production of snowmobiles begins with the manufacture of the body, which consists of a frame and skin. To ensure that the frame has significant strength, the design has two spars. They have the following dimensions: 35x35x2350 mm. In addition to them, power stringers in the amount of 5 pieces, measuring 20x12x2100 mm, were introduced into the design. Plus, the body has a front compartment and a rear compartment where the engine should be located. The body must be aerodynamically shaped, so it tapers at the front.

The entire hull is reinforced throughout its entire length with four frames located at equal distances from one another. They are made of solid plywood, 10 mm thick. For greater reliability, frames, especially wide ones, have transverse reinforcement with special beams.

First of all, the lower frame is mounted, on which the frames are installed. Spacers are also mounted here, which are attached to the frames with corners. After this, the stringers are secured. The frame is glued with casein glue. The joints are fixed with gauze, after which these places are generously saturated with glue. Another option is also possible: first the bandage is soaked in glue, and then the connection points are wrapped with it.

The body is sheathed with sheets of plywood, and duralumin sheathing is mounted on top. The driver's seat can also be made of plywood or a factory-made plastic one installed. In the rear, behind the seat, there is a luggage space where tools, spare parts, a container of gasoline, and the fisherman’s personal belongings can be stored.

The propeller engine installation requires a more serious approach than assembling the cabin and hull. To rotate the propeller, they mostly take the engine from the IZH-56 motorcycle. The propeller shaft is mounted on a bearing, which is located on the frame.

The engine is mounted on a wooden plate using two brackets and four struts. The plate has dimensions 385x215x40 mm. It is advisable to sheathe the slab on both sides with plywood, 5 mm thick. Duralumin corners are attached to the legs of the struts.

To make it possible to adjust the V-belt transmission to the screw, a plate made of plywood or textolite is provided between the channels and the plate. The engine is cooled by a fan, which is mounted on the crankcase using a bracket.

Installation of the chassis is a continuation of the 2 previous stages. Plywood, 10 mm thick, is used as skis. To strengthen them, a thicker beam is used, and the upper part of the ski is sheathed with stainless steel. The entire ski mechanism is attached to the body using M6 screws.

The design of the ski also consists of an undercut, which is made of a pipe with a diameter of 8 mm. The ends of the pipe are flattened. The pipe is attached in the middle part of the mount under the “hog”. Undercuts allow the snowmobile to remain stable when turning.

The front of the ski flexes. To do this, the ski is placed in boiling water (only the part that needs to be bent) and bent using a device (slipway). To ensure that the front part of the ski retains its shape, a metal plate is installed. The ski spring is made of wood and has three parts.

The lower part is made from birch, which has dimensions of 25x130x1400 mm. The axle shaft is attached to it. The upper and middle parts are pine. Together they are connected with M8 bolts and duralumin sheets. There is a special shock absorber in the front of the ski that prevents the ski from digging into the snow when moving. It is made of a rubber band. The back of the snowmobile is already heavier, and together with the harness, the ski is always directed upward.

Acceleration of the snowmobile's movement is carried out by pressing the corresponding pedals, and changing the direction of movement is carried out by means of the steering column.

To avoid any problems with the operation of the snowmobile, it is better to take a ready-made propeller, since it is very difficult to make it yourself, especially the first time.

Any vehicle must have several mandatory instruments, such as a speedometer, tachometer, ammeter and ignition switch. A fuel level indicator wouldn't hurt either. All main instruments are installed on the front panel made of PCB.

You can install some additional devices, but only if there is at least some sense. Well, for example, a GPS navigator, which may be needed if the path is long and the places are unfamiliar.

There should also be a carburetor air and throttle lever in the cockpit. It is advisable to install a rear-view mirror on the left side of the cabin, and a visor on top of the cabin.

This design is much simpler than the design described above. The engine used here is a chainsaw motor. Despite its simplicity, hardly anyone will decide to go fishing on such snowmobiles.

To travel long distances, you need a motor with a power of about 12 hp, and the motor power of a chainsaw is only 4 hp. The installation principle is the same as in the first case.

If the reservoir is not far away, just a few kilometers away, then you can go fishing on such snowmobiles, equipping them with a place to move fishing equipment.

A design such as a snowmobile requires special attention, since there is a rotating part that poses a potential danger to others. This part is a rotating screw or, as it is called, a propeller. To prevent a person from getting into the area of ​​its rotation and being injured, it must be hidden in a special casing. In addition to the fact that this casing will protect those around you, it will also protect the screw itself from foreign objects that could simply break it.

During the work, all dimensions given in the drawings must be strictly observed. Self-production requires great care: it is necessary to check every bolted connection, especially on skis, since they experience the main load.

During operation, you should regularly check the mounting points, as well as the propeller itself, for defects. In addition, you should pay attention to the normal operation of the engine, the presence of fuel and the oil level. This is the only way to count on trouble-free operation of a homemade device, especially if it is designed for long-term operation.

Snowmobiles can make a fisherman’s life easier, and quite significantly, especially in snowy areas. This is the only vehicle, other than a snowmobile, that can be used to travel long distances in such conditions without problems.