Homemade electric chain saw made from an electric motor. How to make a sawmill from a chainsaw with your own hands, quickly and easily. How to make a sawmill from a chainsaw

Own sawmill is a profitable enterprise, since wood is one of the most in demand building materials. You can acquire such equipment by purchasing it from finished form or by building it yourself. The choice of option depends entirely on how many cubic meters wood will be processed regularly. Experts recommend familiarizing yourself with the types of saws first. Acquisition finished product will help save time, and the manufactured one will fully meet the owner’s requirements.

Types of frame units

It is recommended to pay attention to a sawmill made from an electric saw, in which the frame is the base. Typical factory-produced products are expensive and considered professional equipment with rich functionality and high level productivity. The finished tool will be able to pay for itself after a few months. It is necessary when there is a large volume of forest. In other cases, it is advisable to purchase or make your own sawmill from a small electric saw.

Equipment designed for sawing wood is presented in wide range. Most of them are too expensive for a typical country farm, and processing volumes are scale-oriented industrial enterprises and reach several thousand cubic meters per day. Experts distinguish 3 types of such devices:

• disk;
• tape;
• tire

Circular saws are the most common on the farm. Among their disadvantages are the increased volume of waste in comparison with tape analogues and high cost quality discs. Electric band saws are recognized as one of the most profitable options. They are unpretentious to weather conditions and produce little waste. It is recommended to use them with wood whose diameter does not exceed 70 mm. The design of the device complicates the process of reproducing it yourself.

Tire sawmills are in great demand among hobbyists. They are capable of processing large volumes of wood. Tire sawmill can be made with your own hands more easily and quickly compared to analogues.

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Specifications

Factory-produced devices have their own characteristics that affect the price. Electric saw PCM-1E (380 V) has small dimensions and copes well with processing wood with a diameter of no more than 60 cm and a length of no more than 9.5 m. Equipped three-phase electric motor, the power of which reaches 5.5-7.5 kW.

Equipment PCM-3B (Stihl MS 660) small sizes capable of processing logs with a diameter of up to 60 cm and a length of up to 9 m. The professional model has a motor power of up to 5.2 kW. The unit can process 6 cubic meters of wood during an 8-hour shift.

The “Taiga DP-1” disc sawmill easily processes wood with a diameter of no more than 90 cm and a length of up to 7 m. It is capable of producing several types of wood products and is equipped with an electric motor with a power of 11 kW. Produces up to 10 cubic meters of wood per 8-hour shift. The Wood-Mizer LT-15 band sawmill processes wood with a diameter of up to 70 cm, the length of the logs is not limited, and the weight can reach 2 tons. It is presented in two configurations - with an electric motor with a power of 11 kW and a gasoline engine with a power of 18 hp.

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Self-production

To make a sawmill with your own hands, you will need to create a plan. Manufacturing process carried out independently if the sawmill will be used irregularly and there are certain materials (metal profiles, engine).

Electric sawmill own production has more modest performance than its factory counterpart. Homemade device used for the production of beams and boards. First you need to determine:

• the length and diameter of the logs that will be processed;
• unit performance;
• motor – gasoline or electric;
• installation location.

The carriage can be used as a motor for a semi-professional chainsaw. Experts say that household chainsaws and electric chain saws are not suitable, since their motors are not designed to perform such actions (lack of required power).

The bed, base or frame must be sufficiently stable and reliable, since the safety of the master and the quality of operation of the equipment depend on this. The length of the frame is determined taking into account the length of the wood that will be processed. Guides can be made from pipes, angles, or U-shaped profiles. The thickness of the metal is selected taking into account the weight of the wood being processed. For a carriage with a saw, you will need 3-4 mm of metal. It will be able to support the weight of the fittings and the motor.

The choice of disk or tire depends on the type of device being manufactured. Their length reaches 40-50 cm. The amount of waste can be reduced if you use chains with a small cutting thickness and special type tires The sharpening angle of the chain should be 10°. Experts recommend making a device for fastening round timber in the form of a low stationary unit.

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Step-by-step instruction

To make a sawmill for sawing with a disk, you will need to place the carriage on top of the structure. Guides made from a 50 mm corner must be 5 m long. If the equipment is stationary, then holes will need to be drilled in the concrete and in the corner in increments of 15 cm. The structure is attached to the floor using dowels.

The device for fastening the log can be made from a channel or a U-shaped profile. The edges must be welded to the corner. Additionally, it is necessary to make holes for the bolts so that the log is fixed in the profile. The thickness of the processed logs will not exceed 40 cm, so 10, 15 and 20 cm are measured from the center of the profile. Holes for stops will be located at these points. More reliable fixation can be ensured by installing a movable clamp with teeth on the first and last profiles. The retainer is made from metal sheet 4 mm thick. The teeth are cut using a grinder. It is necessary to make additional holes in the profile and the retainer so that the latter unit can be easily dismantled and reinstalled.

The next stage involves the manufacture of the carriage. The design must be reliable, taking into account three phase motor power 3 kW. The height of the product should be 1-1.2 m. It is necessary to mark a corner 4 mm thick and 40 mm long. Then you need to cut the elements. The carriage design is welded and requires joining of parts. At the ends of its corners, holes are made for the wheels.

Next comes the installation of the motor with the disk. It is desirable that its height can be adjusted, and the device can operate in two positions - vertical and horizontal. The height of the unit can be adjusted using two pipes, which are recommended to be welded to the carriage frame.

At the next stage, you will need 2 channels welded to each other and a sheet of metal 6 mm thick. The channel is attached to the pipes using U-shaped clamps with a diameter of 10 mm. At its ends you will need to weld pieces of metal with holes for clamps, which should both sit tightly on the pipe and, if necessary, slide along it. It is advisable to adjust the height using 2 threaded rods. On top, in the carriage profile, you need to make holes for the rods.

A nut is welded to the ends of the profile on which the motor is located on both sides, into which you need to screw a rod and weld the sprocket from the bicycle. On both sides there are 2 rods with threads and stars. Between them are installed 2 large sprockets from the bicycle, which will have to be tightly connected. As they rotate, the motor will rise or fall.

By creating conditions for rotating the motor both horizontally and vertically, you can achieve rotation of the disk in 2 positions. The frame is assembled based on the dimensions of the disk and engine and welded to the movable profile. It is necessary to attach 2 bearings and make 4 holes in the steel sheet. They are necessary for attaching the electric motor, to which you will need to weld 2 metal rods, focusing on the diameter of the bearings. The structure is then firmly attached to the frame. On the back side there will be a handle with stops. Protective cover made from of stainless steel and fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame with the motor. A control panel with “Start” and “Stop” buttons is connected to the fixed motor with the disk.

Unlike a standard chainsaw, a homemade battery-powered electric saw noticeably lags behind in power. However, it has other obvious advantages: compact size and mobility - the electric saw can be easily disassembled and put in a backpack. In general, despite low power, it will still be useful.

To make a homemade electric saw you will need a piece sheet metal 3 mm thick, from which the base for the body will need to be cut. You will also need a short bar, fasteners and a length of saw chain.

Main stages of work

First of all, we cut out the housing to which the electric motor will be attached. Then on lathe we grind a steel pulley onto the engine drive shaft. To make a homemade cordless electric saw, you will need a small tire and a piece of chain of suitable length.

Then you need to make a wooden handle, in which you will need to drill a hole and install a power on/off button.

At the next stage from batteries 18650 we make a whole 24V battery pack. We weld the contact plates using contact welding. A full battery charge will last for one hour continuous operation electric saws.

From a piece of steel round pipe It is necessary to make a persistent handle to make sawing more convenient. Then we begin assembling the entire structure. The result is a compact electric saw that runs on a battery.

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for summer cottage either in personal home. She simply masters cutting thick branches, boards and different material made of wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes it is necessary to correct small or large damage. Electric saw repair their with hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be sent in for service. But there are some breakdowns that can simply be corrected without the help of others.

Overview of the design of an electric chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair electric saws, you need to understand their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a collection of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The chain moves along a plate called a tire. Do-it-yourself electric saw from a grinder -. This part is made of steel of the highest quality, which is not susceptible to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the tool’s properties. Tires are classified by design:

• welded;
• solid with removable tip;
• solid with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a “sandwich” that is welded from 3 components into one, with all this a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One piece design with replaceable tip - 1 sheet product, normal for instruments long length. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. The one-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid tire made of hard alloy materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest loads, as well as for operation in conditions where there is a huge amount of sand, dust and dirt.

1. ELECTRIC CHAIN ​​SAW FROM AN GRINDER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” occurring. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests on the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

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2. An automatic chain brake is also called an inertial drive, which operates thanks to a shield located in front of the left hand of the person performing the work. Before work, this shield is placed in a position closer to the hand, so that if necessary, it can be quickly brought into action. If a reverse impact moment occurs, the operator’s hand rests on this shield and the chain stops. The position also changes due to the inertia arising from the impact. This system makes it possible to reduce the possibility of repairing electric chain saws, because during an impact the main mechanism will not be damaged.

3. Another system that prevents wear and tear is automatic chain lubrication. Oil is poured into a special reservoir, which during operation of the saw is transferred through an oil pump to the driven sprocket and chain. Some models even have an oil supply regulator, because different levels of work require different amounts of oil. For example, repairing a Makita electric saw involves inspecting the oil supply system.

4. Chain saws with an electronic motor have some shortcomings or weak points. One of them is the design of the gearbox. The torque is transmitted to the chain through a gearbox, which has a rigid connection with the armature of the electronic motor. This design transfers all the loads to the motor; in other words, if the workpiece contains hard inserts or the saw chain is dull, then it will not glide so smoothly across the surface. The result of this will be overheating of the motor or wear of some of its parts. A chain saw significantly How to connect a washing machine with your own hands to. As preventive measure You need to sharpen the saw on time and not put pressure on it while working. They often enter service repair electric saw Parma with such defects.

5. The second weak point of saws with an electronic motor is the dependence on the mains voltage. If it drops, the load on the motor increases; in models that are not equipped with thermal protection of the motor, the growing load leads to its combustion. Yes, and protection against temperature increase has shortcomings, because at low voltage it works, reducing performance. For example, repairing an Interskol electric saw often comes down to just increasing the voltage in the network, after which the tool works properly.

Review of possible malfunctions of electric saws

1. If the saw does not cut in, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
2. If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To fix this problem, you need to move the brake flap to a different position.
3. If the measures described above do not turn on the saw, then need to check integrity of the cable and plug.
4. If the power of the saw has decreased or productivity has dropped, you need to change the carbon brushes, which are apparently worn out.
5. Quite often the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain lapse of time. The longer the saw is used, the larger this temporary gap becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
6. Often, when the saw is operating, a nasty, ear-cutting sound occurs. This sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A power chain saw is a saw, How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. Fixing the problem is simple - add oil and clean the grooves.
7. It is important to use only unique spare parts for repairs that are recommended by the manufacturer. If you use spare parts from third-party companies, this often leads to tool failure or unsafe situations.
8. If there is damage to the body, then for your safety, the saw must be sent in for repair.
9. You cannot replace cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or are not suitable for the design.

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for an angle grinder, turning it into electric chain saw.

Sharpening a power saw

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Electric chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth it to renovate an apartment with your own hands? It must be sharpened preventively, since if this process is delayed, it will no longer be possible to repair the electric chain saw with your own hands. It must be sent to a service center, where it will be sharpened on professional machines.

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1. Extending the service life of the saw element:

• Before starting work, you must make sure that there are no hard metal objects in the workpiece. If the cutting element comes into contact with metal object, then a jagged or chip will remain on the chain, which can no longer be removed;

• work cannot be carried out on the ground, as digging into the ground will clog the oil grooves, as a result of which the chain will be left without normal lubrication and will wear out faster;
• It is necessary to monitor the saw wedge; it should not be allowed, as this overheats the metal and reduces its service life.

2. How to determine that a saw needs sharpening. To do this, just pay attention to the chips - if they are small and slightly darker, then the chain is dull. This is explained by the fact that blunt edges do not remove the necessary cutting layer, which leads to chip crushing. Also, the quality of saw sharpening is determined based on visual inspection, there should be no radii on the saw part, no damage in the form of torn areas, the shape of the tooth and cutting edge should be the same as on a new tool.

If all these factors do not meet the necessary requirements, then the saw requires sharpening. If you continue to work on a dull saw, this will affect the performance, as well as the service life of the saw. When the elements are sharpened, the load on the motor increases, it overheats and all its elements wear out faster than the specified period.

3. How to sharpen a power saw yourself:

• required for sharpening special tool, this is a set of round and oval files, mandrel and gauge;
• sometimes the set additionally includes a hook for cleaning the chain slots from shavings;
• a round file is combined with a mandrel;
• file flat shape and caliber are used separately;
• the chain is sharpened on the saw blade itself;

• the mandrel is placed on the edge of the cutting tooth, while taking into account the sharpening angle of the chamfer;
• The sharpening angle is set to 30 or 10°, setting the angle is the most difficult editing process, since if the wrong angle is set, the tool will be damaged;

• When sharpening, the file is positioned perpendicular to the shank; it protrudes slightly above the tooth when sharpening;
• sharpening takes place in one direction, that is, only forward movement, not reciprocating;
• when one tooth is sharpened, the chain is turned and the next tooth begins to be sharpened;
• After all the edges of the teeth have been processed with a file, the processing of the limiting cut begins - a protrusion on the chain that does not have cutting edges; it is located on the same plate with the tooth. The function of this part is to form a recess when cutting;

• if the cut stops protrude too much, the chain will not cut, but will only slide; if they are too deep, the wood will jam the cutting part of the tool;
• the cutting stops are adjusted using a gauge, it is applied to the edge of the cutting teeth, while the end strip is at the same level as the stop;
• if the limiter protrudes, then it must be trimmed; this is done with an ordinary flat file;
• move the file along the limiter in a perpendicular plane in one direction.

4. Sharpening the saw on the machine:

• for sharpening on a machine, the chain is removed from the shank;
• the chain is installed on the machine guide and tensioned with a roller and ratchet, which hold it by the cutting tooth;
• the machine has a protractor that sets the sharpening angle;
• the abrasive wheel is lowered, with its help a small layer of metal is removed - about a few tenths of a millimeter. This is the process of straightening and sharpening the chain;
• after editing one tooth, the guide is moved to the next one and so on;
• this type of sharpening allows you to withstand the rigid limits of editing and sharpening the tool;
• If you want to purchase such a machine for yourself, then it is recommended to purchase not the electric version, but the manual one, since its cost is much lower. The machine allows you to postpone the repair of Bosch electric saws and any other manufacturers.

Some rules for working with electric saws

1. Electric chain saws are designed to work with maximum indicator speed, you should always operate at full throttle to improve performance.
2. You should not cut at a right angle away from yourself; you should hold the saw slightly at an angle from the body.
3. It is necessary to follow the instructions for repairing the electric saw, and also purchase only those spare parts which are recommended by the manufacturer.
4. Before transporting the saw, you must turn off the engine; keep the bar and chain behind you when carrying it; you must pack the saw in the casing before transportation.
5. Do not operate the saw above shoulder level as this increases the risk of an accident.
6. If the saw is jammed in the material, it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
7. When working with a log framed by thin branches, you should act very carefully, since thin material in some cases, it is clamped by a tire and tilted towards the person performing the work.
8. It is strictly forbidden to use a faulty, unadjusted or incompletely assembled tool.
9. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the saw switch.
10. It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, since if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injury, but also to breakdown of the device.
11. Repair of Partner electric saws, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, because do-it-yourself repair leads to serious problems in the future.

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A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw not very often, I still recommend getting such a machine if you have the slightest opportunity to make parts. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and sharpening wheels, a milling cutter and a universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant design changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype this design saws provide not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling processing, and it is also possible to sharpen tools and cut metal.

The basis of this design is an electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is its exceptional reliability, and taking into account the fact that in an electric saw it operates in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is cut from plywood or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is secured to the base with MB screws with a conical head using angles measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 140 mm, attached to the electric motor with its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, a subframe is attached to the top of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the angles, which serve to attach them to the engine, are oblong in shape in order to ensure tension on the belt drive. Instead of the standard nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel strip measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with M8 threaded holes into which the bolts are screwed is installed. The underframe and the base in the area opposite the engine are connected by spacer posts made of a metal rod with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft on which the saw blade and belt pulley are mounted are installed in the housing bearing unit. As for the manufacture of the bearing assembly housing, shaft and parts used to secure the saw blade (Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also quality of woodworking.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20; it is designed to install bearings of type 203, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car store. It is advisable to make the spindle shaft and saw blade mounting parts from higher quality steel, for example from steel 45. The dimensions of the saw blade mounting parts allow the installation of discs with an internal hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, length 82 mm, with the help of which the bearing assembly is secured to the underframe with MB screws with conical heads. The threaded holes used to attach it to the underframe should be drilled before welding using a template, which is then used to drill holes in the underframe. To avoid welding metal splashes, the bearing housings are rubbed with chalk before welding. It should be noted that it is recommended to drill all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined together during the rough preliminary assembly process, including cutting out a hole in the underframe used for installing a cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin with a thickness of 4-5 mm or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin with a thickness of 8-10 mm. To allow the saw blade to pass through, a slot about 10 mm wide is made in the table. This can be done later, during the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which the halves of detachable card cards are attached using screws with a diameter of M5. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which includes counter halves of loops with pins attached to the work table with M5 screws with a conical head. To ensure the orientation of the countersinks in the hinge plates with the fastener heads, the mating halves are swapped: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right mating part.

In the opposite part of the table there is a support-lifting device that provides smooth adjustment lifting the edge of the table relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of protrusion of the edges of the cutting tool relative to the surface of the table. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by securing the table to the underframe and adjusting the lift of the table by placing washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other sizes, the dimensional chains of the bearing assembly housing must be adjusted. It is advisable to use ready-made nuts. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from an aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise the use of cutting tools with a diameter of 200 mm or more will be impossible: 1 Some washing machines are equipped with just such belts. In combination with cutting tool Not large diameter“Of course”, shorter length belts can also be used.

The standard diagram for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in Fig. 4. The RTK-S type starting relay is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upward - otherwise the relay will not operate correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use capacitor system start (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the motor torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor starting system does not require the use of a starting relay. Automatic shutdown The starting capacitor is made using a modified two-key switch. The “Start” key (Fig. 6) is equipped with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures that the key returns to its original state. The flag attached to this key ensures automatic operation of the second section of switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the “Start” button for a period of time during which the electric motor reaches operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the SI contacts, which disconnect the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains in the on state, closing the S2 contacts. The electric motor is stopped by pressing the “Stop” button. When using a capacitor starting system, it is necessary to install a fuse with a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the tie rod nuts are released and the underframe is moved relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor engine starting system, the weakest link of the machine may be the standard transmission belt. In this case, you can use a belt drive with a double belt.

When using a standard electric motor starting system, it is also advisable to connect a capacitor Cp to the starting relay terminals “O” and “P”, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The parts of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield, z-shaped, bent in place, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and secured with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of approximately 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. On front surface A key switch is attached to the shield, and capacitors are attached to the back side.

Using MB bolts, a guide made of a duralumin angle measuring 50 x 50 mm and a length of 600 mm is attached to the table, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be attached to the table parallel to the saw blade on required distance. It is advisable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

A trapezoidal slot is made at the base of the saw with dimensions: At the bases of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot serves to dump sawdust from under the disk into the storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slit and secured to it with twine or an elastic band. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, and also as bedding for the cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. cannot be used.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a hopper for collecting sawdust, since it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of various cutting and sharpening tools. Speaking of selection saw blades, we can recommend that you first purchase a rip saw blade with a thickness of 1.6 mm, a diameter of 200 mm, and 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades with large diameter and thickness; do not purchase disks intended for cross-cutting: if a rip saw cuts quite satisfactorily across the grain, then when you try longitudinal sawing Using a crosscut saw will put you through a lot of work.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing large volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade “shrinks” very quickly due to the presence of various solid inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to saw large quantities of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

It is most productive to choose quarters with a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a mounting hole of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to acquire a cutting disc for metal 3 mm thick, with a seat diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install disks with a seat diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not pose any problems for you. If you are using a router bit or cutting disc, the hole in the work table may need to be slightly widened.

Drawings of parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) to the spindle are shown in Fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of the UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the electric plane “Rebir” type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively light work - the armature of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this plane is extremely low and I should get a more reliable tool. I note that if you use an UDG, you will need to make a special work table, since a hole width of 55 mm is required to pass the cutters fixed in the head. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on a cutting and sanding wheel on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be observed especially strictly when processing used wood. If metal inclusions are detected, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be turned off immediately, the cause of the overload must be eliminated and turned on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be the dullness of the cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work like a “beast” again. In passing, I would like to note the need to control the spread of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should approximately be 0.6-0.8 mm. The saw doesn’t like to cut without a divorce! You should also periodically clean the keyboard player's contacts.

When trimming edges, do not edged boards To obtain smooth edges on the board, you must first “beat” a line using a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would also be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the wringer of the washing machine, securing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By raising the work table, you can install the abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with glued sandpaper (“bayan”) will allow you to sand parts. Polished circle representing a package round blanks made of fabric sandwiched between two discs will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

cutting and fastening tool It is very convenient to store in a metal film can with a diameter of 300 mm. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are placed in a stack (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), they are wrapped with the ends of the fabric and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. You can attach an eyelet to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses and wear gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace the cut ones, and it is impossible to replant the cut ones, despite colossal successes medical science, is still very difficult.
I wish you success in your work!

The desire to improve an existing tool comes for a reason. The main goal of such an experiment is to save money. Indeed, why buy several tools if you can use different attachments and make a multifunctional tool.

The grinder is known to every household homeowner, because with its help you can cut metal, stone, and polish the surface. But trees cannot be cut with such a device; difficulties arise due to the small diameter of the disk. So craftsmen come up with various attachments that make working in the garden much easier.

Why do they resort to a homemade option?

Often, it is homemade options tools or improving existing ones is done out of a desire to save money. Using improvised means and parts left over from equipment or machinery that has fallen into disrepair, craftsmen skillfully make various devices, such as, for example, a chain saw from a grinder.

The second reason can be considered the desire to have a multifunctional tool that will help ease numerous tasks on the farm. The undeniable advantage of this homemade apparatus is space saving. After all, an additional nozzle takes much less space in a barn or garage than a full-fledged device.

For remodeling, you can use absolutely any brand of grinder. The only point worth paying attention to is that the factory attachments may only fit a limited number of models, so when purchasing, be sure to check whether your angle grinder is suitable for the selected attachment.

Factory attachments

Now on sale there are special attachments for grinders in addition to discs. The grinder comes with a device that can be used to turn it into a chain saw in a short time. Supplied in two separate boxes containing an angle grinder and a chain saw.

Set of nozzles

The estimated cost of this set is $83.

Grinder electric saw

Anyone who has encountered working with wood needs to have a saw in their arsenal of tools, with the help of which it is much easier to carry out sawing work. Below is a diagram for converting an electric saw that can be made from a grinder

In order to convert the grinder into electric saw You must have with you:

• Welding apparatus;
• Adapter for cutters;
• A small-thick metal roller;
• Gearbox;
• Saw part.

The first thing to do is to weld a movable wheel at the end of the boom. It is very important to make sure that this wheel and the circuit have the same contour. If this nuance is not taken into account, the chain will fall off or become very tense. After this, the adapter for the cutters is attached to the wheel. The adapter should not be fixed permanently; it should be removable, otherwise difficulties may arise during operation.

A simple and reliable modification option is the following method. We take a bar from an old chainsaw, a sprocket and a chain. Two perforated corner twist together. Cut a hole in one for the nut. We will attach an asterisk to it, and in such a way that it will be possible to attach a corner to the casing.

We attach a tire to the remaining corner. After this, we attach the sprocket and connect the chain. That's all the manipulations that result in an effective saw.

Video reviews

The presented video review tells how to make an electric chain saw from a grinder

Another visual video review demonstrating homemade product

The main advice that should not be neglected is to follow safety precautions when working with such tools. Chainsaw or a power saw in a homemade interpretation can be dangerous and traumatic. If you decide to take this step, then follow all the recommendations, drawings and diagrams that are indicated in the instructions for the adapter.