Homemade concrete mixer with your own hands. Complete Guide DIY Belt Concrete Mixer

Many people like to carry out repairs on their own plots with their own hands. To fix the foundation of a house, fill paths, or install fences on posts, you need a machine such as a concrete mixer. Purchase industrial model there is no point because it will be very expensive. In this case great solution You will be able to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, which will not require large financial costs. So how to make a concrete mixer yourself? Thanks to the presented video, you can clearly see the entire manufacturing process.

Why is a concrete mixer needed?

Many people believe that a small amount of solution can be easily mixed with a shovel. However, this results in a very low quality mixture. The fact is that it is very difficult to stir the solution in a trough with a shovel. Such exercise stress not everyone can do it, so easier to install the concrete mixer, assembled with your own hands from a barrel. In addition, if you mix a large amount of the mixture, the composition will end up dry. The solution begins to lose moisture much faster than it can be stirred to the required consistency.

Good quality concrete will not be obtained even if you use a drill. When you attach it to the bracket, lumps of sand remain in the mixture. The drill must not only spin, but also move back and forth and in a circle. Often the tool cannot withstand such stress and breaks.

To understand the principle of operation of a homemade concrete mixer with your own hands, which is made for a small amount of work, it is necessary to consider the process of mixing the solution. There are 3 ways:

• gravity method;
• vibration method;
• mechanical method.

Gravity method. This method is not used in industry, because the resulting cement has low quality. As a result of gravitational mixing, the container tumbles over, the components begin to “plop” on top of each other and mix into a relatively homogeneous mass.

Vibration method. Counts the most reliable production method concrete in industry. In the fixed tub, a vibrating mixer begins to move, resulting in a high-quality solution.

Mechanical method. Can only be used in conjunction with gravity. In this case, either the mixer begins to rotate in a stationary tub, or the tub with protrusions inside rotates.

Concrete mixer manufacturing technology

There are a large number of homemade units that are adapted for the production of concrete. Most simple design can be made from an ordinary milk can, a large saucepan, or old boiled milk. Its drawing is quite simple, and its manufacturing technology is even simpler:

• weld the container to the axis;
• insert a stick, a piece of pipe or a rubber band into the lid and pull the lid very tightly towards the handles;
• to simplify the design couplings are not used, and cut arc-shaped recesses in the frame and lay the axle on them.

To make a more practical unit, it is necessary to use other drawings.

Stages of making a concrete mixer with your own hands

Making a container

Before you start creating a concrete mixer with your own hands, you should choose a container. Best to use for this metal barrels, which can hold at least 200 liters. Exactly this volume is considered optimal in order to knead required amount concrete at a time. It is better not to use plastic tanks, as they will not last long.

To make a concrete mixer you will need a barrel with a lid and a bottom. If the container initially does not have a lid, then it should be welded by cutting it out of a sheet of metal. After this, flanges with bearings should be attached to the bottom and lid of the barrel. A hatch is cut out in the side, through which the components of the solution will subsequently be poured. It is best to make such a hole closer to the end of the container, which will be lower during operation of the concrete mixer. The cut out part of the barrel will be used as a hatch cover. It is secured using hinges and some kind of locking device.

In order for the solution to mix better, internal walls barrels weld the blades at an angle of 30 - 40 degrees. The angle of inclination is calculated in such a way that during the mixing process the concrete can be “pushed” outward. In addition, such the blades can be fixed not on the walls, but on the shaft of the device itself.

If suitable container If you can’t find it, you can make it yourself. To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

• sheet metal 1.5 - 2 mm thick;
• welding machine;
• rollers;
• wooden mallet or hammer.

Before you start cutting metal, drawings should be prepared indicating required sizes. To make the concrete mixer body, you will need a central round section, the bottom of the container and two truncated cones that make up the lower and upper parts of the structure. Parts cut according to the markings must be bent into rings. It is more convenient to do this using rollers. After all parts have been adjusted, the seams are securely welded.

Base installation

A homemade concrete mixer must have a reliable and stable base. Otherwise, the structure may tip over during operation. If it is not intended to load a large amount of concrete into it, then it is better to make the frame out of a square one wooden beam , having a cross-section of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. To ensure that the base of the structure does not suffer from vibration during operation, you should use “half-tree” or “tenon” type connections. After assembly, all joints must be properly glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.

If you want to create a more reliable and durable unit, you should give preference to a frame that welded from metal corner size no less than 45x45 mm. You can also use a channel. If there is no gas welding machine, then the frame is secured with rivets or nuts and bolts.

If there is such a desire, the base can be equipped with wheels. This will require an axle without bearings and the wheels themselves. This concrete mixer is easy to turn over and move. When assembling the base, it is necessary to provide handles. With their help, the device can be moved.

During the assembly process, the frame must provide space for the engine. Also a counterweight will be needed so that when unloading concrete the structure does not tip over. If you plan to unload the solution with a shovel, then in this case a counterweight will not be needed. All these points must be provided for during the creation of the drawing.

Engine installation

To make the concrete mixer more efficient, you need any single-phase motor whose rotation speed is no more than 40 rpm.

Many masters who create homemade design, it is advised to use electric motors from old washing machines that have failed, such as “Volna” or “Chaika”. Such motors are capable of operating long time and don't overheat. When choosing a motor, you should remember that the optimal rotation speed of the tub is 20 - 30 rpm. For this, various gearboxes are used. However, optimal and simple option is the use of a pulley and a drive belt.

Instead of a washing machine motor, You can use a motor from a motorcycle or a gasoline-powered moped. In this case, the concrete mixer will not require power supply and can be used in any conditions. The engine is mounted using 4 bolts to the bracket or frame, which are welded to the gearbox housing.

However, a homemade concrete mixer can also work using manual control. In this case, neither electricity nor gasoline will be needed. Such a simple device is mobile, easy to assemble, and anyone can operate it. Its only drawback is the presence of an assistant to mix the solution.

Finally, a shaft is threaded through the container of the structure. To make the device more stable, it should be dug into the ground at an angle of 30 degrees.

Thus, to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, no special skills are needed. The manufacturing process can be seen more clearly in the video. Before you start assembling such a device, you should use the drawings. They will help you correctly and accurately create a homemade design without serious problems. financial investments.

To improve a site, either mortar or concrete is often needed. Kneading it by hand is difficult and time-consuming, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve uniformity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for periodic use. A good solution is a DIY concrete mixer. You need a little money, for productivity homemade units no worse than the Chinese ones, and sometimes even better.

Manual concrete mixer

At a construction site there is not always electricity, and large volumes of mortar and concrete are not always required either. The solution is to make a small-volume concrete mixer that will rotate manually (with a manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and straightforward.

From a milk flask

The simplest manual concrete mixer can be made using an ordinary metal flask (milk used to be sold in these). You will also need pipe cuttings or other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a concrete mixer can be built with your own hands in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. Assembling the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes.

Make a frame from round pipe bend the handle. In the upper part of the frame, weld two water couplings (for example). Their internal diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask and welded to the body.

In order for the barrel to spin easily, you need to find the center of gravity. To do this, you can put it on some thin object, and move it forward/backward to find this very center. This is where you will need to pass the handle. Having passed the handle, it is attached to the walls of the case. This is where complications can arise: flasks are usually made of aluminum alloy, and the handle may be made of steel. It will not be possible to connect them by welding. The only available way out is cold welding. He is quite real. The remaining modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-arc welding at home - are not implemented. Another way out is to weld plates onto the handle, which are riveted to the sides of the flask.

To prevent the handle from playing too much and falling out during operation, nuts are welded to it on both sides of the coupling.

In general, this is all about making a manual concrete mixer with your own hands. In one batch of 40 liter can you can get 2.5-3 buckets of solution. For use in a country house or on a plot near a house (without construction) it is more than enough.

If there is no can, you can adapt a barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with welding the handle disappears, but you will have to come up with a system for fixing the lid. You can make something similar to the one that the can has.

The video shows an example of a handmade homemade concrete mixer made from a milk flask. The design is a little different, but not too different. Eat interesting idea— inside the container, dividers are welded to the pipe, which speed up mixing.

From a barrel (manual and electric)

The author called this design a “drunk barrel” because of its unique trajectory. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes obliquely through the container. Because of this, the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important is that there are no problems with welding dissimilar metals. A drawing of a manual concrete mixer from a barrel is shown below.

In the upper part of the frame, bearings are installed in the center, into which the handle is threaded. Thanks to them it spins 200 liter barrel easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - it will last longer. No additional blades are welded inside: they only retain the components, interfering with mixing and complicating unloading.

IN original design The loading/unloading hatch is located in the bottom. This is a cut-off part (about 1/3), attached with hinges to the bottom, equipped with rubber sealing around the perimeter and closed with two locks. When loading the barrel, turn it so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading, turn down. The solution moves by gravity into the substituted container, and the stuck one can be removed by knocking on the body with a hammer or sledgehammer.

This design served the author for 10 years, although it was made for a one-time job, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of solution are mixed well in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, it was repeated and improved by neighbors and acquaintances. Most of the modifications concerned the hatch. Experimentally, its most successful design was identified - similar to the one used in a milk flask. This “neck” is welded to the body of the barrel on one side (look at the photo above). They also make handles on both sides so that two people can work.

This design can easily be converted into an electric homemade concrete mixer. Not very well placed powerful engine— 1 kW for a 200-liter barrel is enough, a small sprocket is attached to the axis of which, a larger sprocket is welded to the axis-pipe (to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).

DIY electric concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine

This concrete mixer is gear type. To make this model you needed:

• galvanized steel barrel 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height 720 mm);
• washing machine motor - 180 W, 1450 rpm;
• flywheel and starter gear from Moskvich 412;
• two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
• wheels from a garden cart;
• scrap metal for the frame.

Gears, wheels - everything is old, everything was in the garage

First of all, we clean everything from rust, treat it with a rust converter and cover it with primer.

We make a frame from pipes and channels. We strengthen the corners of the frame by welding metal plates. Everything must be tough and reliable. We are making a serious crossbar: a barrel of solution will “hang” on it, and everything will vibrate and spin.

The frame is the basis of the structure. The pipes are almost new))

We weld the pins, seat under the transmission gears. We remove rust, treat it with a rust converter, and prime it.

We fasten the wheels from the cart. They have wide treads and they have justified themselves: it is not difficult to drag a concrete mixer even just across the site.

We also make structures from pipes for support and installation of all the “filling”.

The second is for greater stability

We begin to assemble the drive. First we place the large gear on the previously welded pin.

We install an assembly in the seat - a small gear connected to a wheel for a belt drive.

We attach the engine to the plate welded in advance.

We hang it so that the two wheels of the belt drive are at the same level. It is also necessary to ensure normal belt tension.

All that remains is to attach the barrel. We make a hole in the center for a large pulley and drill a hole for fasteners. Let's put it in place.

All that remains is electrical part. We connect the cable via

Several photos of the main components. Maybe someone needs to take a closer look.

The second transfer option is from a car disk

The barrel is 200 liters, its edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the usual “pear”.

They made a “pear” from a barrel

The car disk was bolted to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that a recess was formed for the belt drive. A hub was pre-attached to the disk.

Blades were welded inside the barrel to mix the solution more efficiently.

All this equipment was attached to the frame.

Where the plate is welded is the place for the engine. We set it so that the belt runs smoothly. Power was supplied through a toggle switch, and a timer from the washing machine from which the motor was removed was turned on in series.

In general, the rotation speed turned out to be 35-40 rpm. Should be enough.

Homemade mixers in video version

If clear general principle How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, you can modernize and remodel it, adjusting it to the existing parts. The videos collected in this section will help.

Crown type

Another option, but not a gear type, but a crown type. By the way, you can buy a crown (cast iron or plastic) and install it on the barrel.

With rollers as support

A concrete mixer is required when construction takes place. Saving on material leads to bad consequences, so it should be chosen carefully.

Concrete is used both in the construction of large buildings and for the foundation of small premises.

Types of making concrete mixers

The simplest option is a concrete mixer, which works with the help of human effort. A more complex version uses an electric motor. But it is also created from improvised devices.

When making a concrete mixer with your own hands, you should consider several points:

• The product must be harmless. Special attention is given to a converter that runs on electricity.
• Investments in the production of a concrete mixer should be kept to a minimum.
• Make a choice in favor of an automatic product, it is easier to use.

Selection of materials

What is required to produce a manual concrete mixer? We will need:

• fastening;
• a tube;
• welding device;
• profile;
• grinder;
• bearings;
• flanges;
• 200 liter barrel;
• metal corners 50 by 50 mm;
• card loops.

To make a concrete mixer with an electric motor, you will need to add several corners, a pipe cut into parts, node fittings and the electric motor itself to the list.

Step by step instructions

1. Make slits from the end parts of the barrel. The flanges and shaft are fixed to them.
2. Holes are made on the sides to fill the barrel with concrete and attach the hatch.
3. Card loops will be needed to open the hatch
4. Pull the shaft through the slots on the ends of the barrel.
5. Flanges are attached to the shaft to strengthen the walls.
6. Corners are required to make a comb. Thanks to it, the mixture cooks faster. The corners are placed with inside barrels, and pins are attached to them.
7. The channel, corners and struts are needed for supports.
8. The parts are joined together, and the resulting supports are placed next to the end sides of the barrel.
9. The supports are dug into the ground for strength, about 30 cm deep.

The shaft is fixed on the sides by levers. The size of the handles is chosen so that you can rotate the drum with both hands.

Choose a place for the concrete mixer and place the structure there; next to the hatch there should be an area for storing concrete elements. They are placed through the hatch and mixed.

Electric motor assembly

To make a concrete mixer with an electric motor, a single-phase motor is suitable.

If you have motors from old washing machines at home, you can use them as an electric motor for a concrete mixer. average speed rotation should be 20 - 30 rpm.

The engine from gasoline motorcycles will also work. It will be convenient because it is not dependent on electricity.

It is necessary to remember: For ease of operation of the concrete mixer, you should consider the presence of a mechanism for overturning (it is made from corners) and for movement.

The shaft must rotate through bearings. The solution is used in a maximum of 7 buckets.

Be smart, consider your own preferences, and you will achieve the desired result and ease of use.

Schemes for creating a concrete mixer

It is quite easy to put together. For the most simple mechanism take electric drill, bucket and support. There won’t be a lot of concrete, but this option is suitable for laying a path in the yard or pouring a floor in a house.

Next we design the base. The drawing should also contain it. The base needs to be such that it can support both the concrete and the concrete mixer itself. It must be strong and stable. Easy option there will be a section made of timber, a stronger base will be made of metal.

To control engine rotation, use a gearbox, which can be made from belts.

Do not exclude the design stage from the production of a concrete mixer. The process becomes much easier.

Let's draw conclusions: the concrete mixer is an integral part construction work, and with little effort you can do it yourself, either manually or with an electric motor. The main thing is, don’t forget about the drawings, and then the work itself will be done without errors and in a short time!

Photos of concrete mixers made at home

When performing heavy construction work, a manual concrete mixer will become an indispensable and sought-after assistant. The possibilities of this useful device are not limited to concrete itself, with no less success you can mix any cement-sand mortar in it.

Mechanical concrete mixer - pros and cons

Determine the scope of application of the concrete mixer self-made pretty easy. It should be based on personal ability for heavy construction work. Because it is relatively easy to mix the solution in a mechanized 200-liter barrel, but this cement-gravel mixture still needs to be delivered to its destination, poured into a mold and subjected to vibration compaction (if provided for by the technology). The solution that was not worked out during the day will harden into a shapeless pile, like a monument to your mismanagement.

The other extreme is to try to concrete a 10x20 meter foundation using homemade solution. No mechanical concrete mixer can handle such volumes of work, and its owner even less so. It makes more sense to order a dump truck of concrete with a volume of several cubes and scatter its contents over pre-set formwork - this will be optimal in terms of both financial and physical costs.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required quantity concrete.

Therefore, a personal concrete mixer is used for such work as constructing a porch with your own hands, creating a screed in one room, or when installing piles for a fence. The volume of concreting must correspond to your physical capabilities and the hardware capacity of the device itself.

Concrete mixer - electric or mechanical?

Essentially no big difference in the manufacturing labor intensity between electric and mechanical concrete mixer. Another thing is that the complexity of the electric version is significantly higher, but it can be used alone. Manual option necessarily involves working together; someone needs to “turn the drum,” as the permanent presenter says in one famous show.

But! A mechanical manual concrete mixer can be made mobile, that is, mobile. Electric option difficult to put on wheels and drag around personal plot– it is complex, bulky and needs a more durable frame and chassis. The vibration from the electric motor is also quite high. If necessary, it is better to buy an electric mobile concrete mixer in a store than to strive for the laurels of a great designer. Such an endeavor may result in a broken drive belt (at best) or a voltage breakdown at metal case(but such embarrassment can have the most dire consequences).

Manual concrete mixer - we make a mechanical assistant with our own hands

The sequence of manufacturing a homemade device for mixing mortar consists of several stages:

Do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Calculation

It is not related to work on the apparatus, but to the assessment of the metal belongings available on the farm. We'll get to the drawings a little later. The basis of any concrete mixer is a voluminous metal container. A 150-250 liter barrel is best suited for this, or a used one. If you don’t find the barrel you need on your farm, you can look for something similar from your neighbors or friends. You can entice them with the prospect of forgetting about manual kneading concrete and take the barrel mutually, with the condition subsequent lease concrete mixers. Yes, our barrel definitely needs a “native” lid, which we will weld onto the seat.

In addition, you will need to use a welding rectifier or inverter to make load-bearing frame. To do this, you will need pipes or angles made of ferrous metal (the frame will be heavy from the reinforcement) and the welding machine itself. It is quite reasonable to buy it - modern models They are inexpensive, run on household 220 Volts, are relatively easy to master and greatly facilitate everyday household life in the lap of nature.

Step 2: marking and checking

We mark the contours of the frame based on the dimensions of the barrel - it will be the center of our man-made composition. If frame base make up corners, then the size of their shelves should be at least 50x50 mm. If pipes are used, then ordinary water pipes, 25 mm in outer diameter, will work well (again, you can use them, as long as they are not rusty). Reinforcement for the frame and handle is needed with a diameter of at least 15 mm, preferably corrugated. The shaft requires thick and smooth reinforcement large diameter, not less than 40 mm.

We test the barrel for tightness and strength. You should tap its walls and find out if there are any rusted areas. If any are found, they will need to be brewed. sheet metal outside and check the tightness again. We stock up on two bearings, two door hinges, we check the functionality of the welding machine and grinder.

Step 3: Welding

A hole is made for the shaft in the geometric center of the barrel bottom. The same hole is drilled in the lid (it is not welded yet!). A flange with a shaft is welded into the center of the bottom, and a bearing is mounted on it from the outside. It will be more difficult with the lid - a movable flange with blades is welded to it, which will stir the solution when the handle rotates.

You will need at least three blades; their dimensions should reach the middle of the barrel, but not scrape along its walls. That is, we demonstrate the skill of artistic welding and create an internal iron flower - the flywheel of the concrete mixing process. The side posts of the frame are welded in the shape of the letter A, their size is identical. If the concrete mixer is self-propelled, then the side posts are welded to each other with long reinforcing rods, and metal wheels - wide and durable - are attached to the ends of the legs of both letters A.

The bottom is seated on the shaft with a bearing, the cover with the blades is inserted into the seat and welded around the perimeter. The second support with the handle is pushed in and also installed on the bearing - the main part of the work is completed.

Step 4: final

In the side of the barrel, a hole of at least 30x30 cm is cut in the center for loading and unloading solution components ready-mixed concrete. The work is carried out using a grinder, and carefully - do not damage the main part of the wall. The cut out part is placed on two hinges, with the bolt holes sealed with cement-resistant compounds ( silicone sealant and etc.). What will it already be cutting disc grinders - so much the better, this will ensure a tight connection between the man-made hatch and the wall. Therefore, the final part of the cuts is made with a sharp hacksaw for metal.

A long and durable handle is welded to the side of the barrel where the blades are located. To mix standard concrete, it is enough to load sand, gravel, cement and water through the door, close it well, turn the handle 15-20 full turns and you can substitute a wheelbarrow to unload the finished solution.

A hand-made concrete mixer made with your own hands! Fill it with water to capacity to check the tightness and you can mix a test batch of the solution. When your own stages of heavy construction are a thing of the past, your mechanical assistant will become a sought-after guest among neighbors who are just about to undergo fundamental work.

Comments:

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands? What materials and tools are needed for this? Many people who need a homemade concrete mixer try to make one from what they have at home.

This unit is needed to carry out concrete works on summer cottage or during construction various buildings. Many people cannot afford to buy branded machines, which is why people make concrete mixers with their own hands. Below we will discuss some of these designs that are relatively easy to manufacture.

How does a homemade concrete mixer work?

In practice, there are 4 main methods of mixing the solution:

1. Gravitational.
2. Mechanical.
3. With forced vibration.
4. Combined.

In the first method, the container with the components rotates cement-sand mixture and mixing occurs under the influence of gravitational forces. With this method, a large volume of mortar cannot be mixed, and the quality of the concrete at the end is slightly more than satisfactory. Therefore, this method is not used on a wide scale. But a DIY concrete mixer made using this method may well be suitable for a small amount of work.

With the vibration method of mixing the solution, the machine body does not move, and the mixer equipped with a vibrator creates a compression wave in the mixture of sand and cement. It turns out concrete High Quality. But this method also has significant drawback- high energy intensity. For example, to obtain 18-22 liters of solution, you need an electric drive motor with a power of 1.3-1.5 kW.

Mechanical mixing of material into pure form are not used, but are used in combined method along with gravity. This homemade concrete mixer consists of a vessel that rotates in a horizontal or inclined plane. Protrusions are made inside the structure that mix the solution. Similar designs attract homemade workers due to ease of manufacture. Therefore, mainly units of this type are described below.

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How to make a simple handmade homemade concrete mixer?

Its operation diagram is clear from Fig. 1. In this design, you can mix any, even “dry” solution. It can be done by anyone who has experience using it. simple tools. It comes together in 2-3 hours. Here is a guide to making such a unit:

1. Take the old one milk can or boiling down.
2. If there is a crack or fistula in it, they are eliminated by electric welding.
3. A piece of pipe is threaded through the handle of the lid of the vessel and tied tightly to the handles of the can with a rope. You can also use a rubber band.
4. To secure the vessel to the axis, it is welded to it. If it is made of aluminum, then it is necessary to make holding elements. For them, metal strips 7 mm thick are used. The vessel is attached to them with screws.
5. You need to cut holes in the frame in the shape of the Latin letter “U”.
6. The axle is placed in them.

If a barrel is used, then you can make a horizontal unit. To do this, a hatch is made in its side for filling the mixture, and the vessel itself is strengthened directly on the axis. The unit is installed on legs made of steel pipes.

This design will rotate slowly, but the concrete will be well mixed. The only drawback that such a homemade concrete mixer has is the mixing time of the solution, from 4 to 20 minutes. Compared to using a shovel, this design has 4 times greater productivity. Rotating the axle manually is a little tedious, so you can attach an electric motor through a gearbox or belt drive. Its power should be 2.5 kW with a vessel volume of 50 liters.

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How to make a homemade concrete mixer with forced mixing?

This device will consist of the following components:

1. Tub - made from old barrel, the walls of which must be rounded with a sledgehammer. This is necessary so that cement and sand do not accumulate in the corners of the vessel. For small portions of solution, a tub can be made from 2 basins. In general, you can use plastic containers. They are fastened along the rim with a steel tape, which is tightened with a screw. The bottom of one basin must be cut out so that the solution can be loaded and unloaded.
2. Steel ring gear (you can buy it).
3. Car flywheel.
4. Starter gear from the car.
5. Wheel hub.

This drive works like this. The flywheel rotates on an axis, and the tub moves with it. The second end of the axle is secured using bearing No. 208-210, which is inserted into the coupling located in the hub. You can also make a vertical version.

To do this, a working vessel is bolted to the wheel, and the flywheel is welded to the hub. Then the coupling with bearings is attached to the flywheel, and an additional part is needed to secure the neck of the vessel.

This structure can be connected through a gearbox to an electric motor - the result is an electric concrete mixer. The rotation speed is selected within the range of 25-55 rpm. If the speed increases, splashing of the solution may occur. The engine power is selected as follows: per liter of solution 20-25 W. To ensure these indicators, a belt drive can be used. If we assume that the tub has a volume of 200 liters, then an electric motor with a power of 1.3 kW will be needed. Such a unit gives good quality concrete mixture and allows you to greatly speed up the construction process.

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How to make a concrete mixer from a washing machine?

Any old car can do this. It is important that it has an activator at the bottom of the case. It must be replaced and mounted on a shaft of suitable size. Inside washing tank there is a thread. It is secured with brackets (nuts), which are made in the shape of the letter “P”. We also need to make a structure from a steel strip with blades that rotate 90 degrees. All these parts must be arranged symmetrically so that there is no beating during operation. Drainer needs to be muted. A similar electric homemade concrete mixer has low productivity, but is quite suitable for small jobs. If desired, you can also make an inclined unit. To do this, a frame made of steel pipes is welded, which has an inclined platform. Channels are welded onto it and bolted onto them washing machine. The design works the same way as the vertical version.