Who is basil friends with? Planning crops and compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Biodiversity is being formed
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Compatibility of cultivated plants (alelopathy)
Culture |
Compatible |
Incompatible |
Design |
White acacia |
Against a background of dark conifers |
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Actinidia kolomikta |
Currant |
Apple tree, fruit and large trees |
At the house, along the supports |
Old apple tree |
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Potato |
Tomatoes, horseradish, cabbage |
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Corn, carrots, onions, parsley, celery |
Tomatoes, beans, horseradish |
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Asparagus, tomatoes |
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Eggplant |
Greens, onions, beans, potatoes, peppers |
Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs |
|
Barberry |
Suppresses the growth of other plants. Cereals |
Od. , gr. landing, alive izg. |
|
Marigold |
Strawberries, roses, tulips, gladioli |
||
Paper birch, drooping |
Old apple tree, cherry |
“Burns” the pine |
Rowan, willow, oak, linden, maple, beech, bird cherry on a background of conifers |
Euonymus warty |
Apple tree, fruit trees (attracts pests) |
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Potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, sunflowers |
Onion, garlic, celery, fennel |
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Brocolli |
Celery, sage, beets, onions, potatoes, cucumbers |
Tomatoes, beans, strawberries |
|
Lettuce, spinach, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, beets, tomatoes |
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Brussels sprouts |
Celery, potatoes, beets, onions, cucumbers |
Tomatoes, beans, strawberries |
|
Black elderberry |
Protects currants, gooseberries, raspberries |
Around the barn and in the garden |
|
Grape |
The smell of cabbage and laurel worsens the taste. Elm, hazel |
Vertical gardening |
|
Apple, pear, apricot |
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Elm, mountain elm |
Depresses grapes, oak |
Maple, linden |
|
Gladiolus |
Garlic, calendula |
||
Carrots, turnips, radishes, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, marigolds, calendula, aromatic herbs |
Onion garlic |
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Cabbage, turnips, peas |
|||
Black poplar, maple(protects with phytoncides), oak |
Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits, wheatgrass, beech, dark conifers (spruce, fir, cedar) |
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Like radishes, radishes - beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumbers, tomatoes, pumpkin and zucchini |
Peas, strawberries, cabbage |
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Delphinium |
|||
Tree pliers (Redbladder) round-leaved |
Do not plant near fruit trees |
To decorate buildings |
|
Old apple tree maple holly, linden, pine, cedar |
White acacia, ash, elm - not very |
In groups with conifers |
|
Fragrant herbs |
Peas, kohlrabi |
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Corn, beans, radishes, tomatoes |
Potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage |
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Rowan, hazel, raspberry |
White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, lilac, Tatra maple, rose, rose hips, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry |
Fir, pine, birch, maple, ash, shrubs |
|
Eggplants, tomatoes |
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Strawberries |
Beans, spinach, lettuce, onion, garlic, marigolds, calendula |
It is not advisable to grow after potatoes, eggplants, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, asters, lilies, gladioli (so as not to become infected with their diseases) |
Legumes, onions, garlic, greens. crops, radishes, celery, beets, carrots are good predecessors |
Cereals |
Barberry |
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See pear, except 4th last. + Manchurian walnut |
|||
Corn, beans, beans, lettuce, onion, celery |
tomatoes |
Separately - zucchini, pumpkins, squash (preferably not together) |
|
Calendula |
Apple tree, currants, roses, tulips, gladioli. Strawberries, onions, peas, tomatoes |
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Suppresses the growth of other plants |
Oak, linden, rowan |
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Celery, cucumbers, beets, mustard, spinach, dill, lettuce, onions, potatoes, nasturtium(with all cabbages), calendula, tobacco |
Strawberries, tomatoes, beans |
||
Brussels sprouts |
Chinese cabbage |
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Chinese cabbage |
Brussels sprouts, cauliflower |
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Cabbage |
With many. Dill, celery, onion |
Tomatoes, beans, strawberries |
|
Cauliflower |
Celery, Chinese cabbage, beans, parsley, sage |
Tomatoes. strawberries |
Potato |
Watermelon, broccoli, cabbage, corn, peas, beans, beans, horseradish, eggplant, onions, nasturtium, carrots, lettuce, dill, coriander |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, sunflower, raspberries, cherries, apple trees |
Good: cereals as precursors; peas, calendula |
Horse chestnut |
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
Single landings |
|
Norway maple, field maple, Tatarian maple |
Apple tree, pear tree. Oak's companion. Linden |
Spruce - suppresses Tatar |
Against a background of conifers |
Kohlrabi |
Cucumbers, onions, beets, salad, fragrant herbs |
Strawberries, tomatoes |
|
Watercress |
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Corn |
Artichoke, peas, beans, melon, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, potatoes, barley, lupine, mustard |
Contains raspberry growth |
|
Spruce, raspberry |
|||
The apple tree is old; oak, coniferous, maple |
Oak, rowan, maple, ash, mackerel |
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Cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, potatoes, beets, carrot, tomatoes, eggplant, lettuce, chicory, leeks, garlic, strawberries, calendula, savory, tobacco |
Peas, beans. Aggressive to legumes and cabbages |
Extinguishes fungal diseases |
|
Leek |
Celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes |
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Spruce, apple tree, pine, rowan, hazel |
Corn retards shoots well |
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Chard |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
||
Peas.Leek, onion, lettuce, parsley, radish, beans, tomatoes, marjoram, sage |
Beetroot, celery, horseradish |
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Nasturtium |
Vegetables, potatoes, phlox, cabbage, tomatoes, turnips |
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Nasturtium, delphinium |
|||
Peas, corn, beans, radishes, tomatoes, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, dill |
Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
Catnip and lemon balm - attract bees |
|
Manchurian walnut |
Inhibits apple, pear, yew, shadberry, rowan |
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Old apple tree |
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Lettuce, onion (feather), tomatoes, eggplant |
Beans, peas, cucumbers, fennel, celery |
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Parsnip |
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Parsley |
(Carrots), asparagus, tomatoes, peas, beans, beans, onions, lettuce |
Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish |
Protects everyone from pests |
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
Larches, pines, birches, spruces |
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Depresses everyone |
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Single plant (except for perennial onions, horseradish) |
Gooseberry |
Good - fruit berry plantings |
|
Spinach, dill, watercress, beets, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and pumpkin, aromatic herbs |
Peas, beans, strawberries |
Before zucchini, zucchini, etc. late |
|
zucchini, cucumbers, beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, pumpkin, melon, tomatoes, lettuce |
Peas, beans, strawberries, cabbage |
||
Spinach, dill, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, pumpkin, tomatoes |
Beans, peas, horseradish, celery |
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Garlic, calendula |
Apple tree, pears |
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Spruce, cherry, pine, raspberry |
|||
Strawberries, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, beets, radishes, onions, cucumbers |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
Activates the roots of other plants - helpers |
|
Salad chicory (witloof) |
Strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, cabbage |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
|
onions, radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, broccoli, most cabbages |
Mustard, beans |
Chorus. predecessors: legumes, winter grains, perennial grasses, corn |
|
Celery |
Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, leeks, radishes, carrots, beets |
Tomatoes, peas, beans |
|
Suppresses the growth of other plants, “suffers” from spruce |
Od., gr. landing, alive izg. |
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Scorzonera (black root) |
Onions, cabbage, radishes, carrots, beets |
Tomatoes, beans, horseradish, peas |
|
Apple tree, pear tree |
Do not plant next to sea buckthorn |
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Currant |
Garlic, calendula, geranium, Jerusalem artichoke, homemade hops |
Cherry (with black currant), lily, tulip (bulbous) |
|
Apple tree, raspberry, rowan, larch, fir, spruce, hazel, oak, cedar, linden |
Suffering from birch; aspen |
Spruce, larch, |
|
Parsley, basil, tomatoes |
|||
Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, barberry, white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine) |
Hardwood, od. and small gr. landings |
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Onions, leeks, carrots, radishes, celery, parsley, asparagus, cabbage(?), greens, garlic, calendula, leftover, apple, eggplant, peppers, basil |
Kohlrabi, tall vegetables, beans, peas, cucumbers |
Help berry bushes |
|
Black poplar |
Pear, apple tree |
Closer to the pond |
|
Peas, mustard |
|||
Corn, beans, radish, onion, lettuce |
Potatoes, cabbage |
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Garlic, calendula |
|||
Turnip, radish, cabbage, apple tree |
|||
Eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beets, carrots, cauliflower, peas, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, strawberry, savory, gladioli |
Onion, garlic, broccoli, fennel |
Protects everyone from pests |
|
Depresses everyone |
|||
Tomatoes, lettuce, onions (feathers), peppers |
Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs |
||
Nasturtium |
|||
Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
Tomatoes, beans |
||
Bulb onions |
|||
Beans, onions |
|||
Rowan Nevezhinskaya, apple tree |
White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), apple tree, pear, black currant |
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Roses, tulips, gladioli, currants, strawberries, onions, peas (?), tomatoes |
Peas (?), beans |
Aggressive to legumes and cabbages. Extinguishes fungal diseases |
|
Mock orange (jasmine) |
Suppresses the growth of other plants |
||
Brocolli, carrots |
|||
Rose hip |
Spruce. Suppresses the growth of other plants |
All bushes in one place |
|
Strawberries, turnips, radishes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, carrots |
Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans |
Activates the roots of other plants |
|
Strawberries, carrots, radishes, cabbage |
Tomatoes, peas, beans, sage and other fragrant |
||
Linden and grapes as predecessors. Under the old apple trees - oak, linden, birch, hazel, cherry plum and other conifers, pine, black poplar, maple, raspberries, dill, tomatoes, hemp, tansy, calendula. The smell of mullein infusion or “green manure”, cherry |
Potatoes, wheatgrass, walnuts, Manchurian and black walnuts, white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits |
||
Common ash (tall) |
Suppresses the growth of trees and shrubs, oak is “so-so” |
||
Vika + oats + ryegrass - good; linen + clover |
“Bird cherry, oak, maple huddled together” |
From the article: “In the taiga there are often cedar, rowan, raspberry, hazel, fir, Siberian spruce, Siberian and Daurian larches.” |
Plants that suppress the rest are monoplanted: “white acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, jasmine, barberry. Around the poplar there is a 6-meter zone of suppression of others.” |
On the contrary, they do not like their own kind: apple trees, pears, cherries, cherry plums. The fruits of apple and pear trees produce these, which accelerate the ripening of the fruits of other plants.” |
Note
This table was compiled taking into account the analysis of several sources on the mutual influence of cultures. That is, the principle was in effect: those compatibility data that turned out to be the same, common to several authors, were entered into the table. Data that varied or were contradictory were not included in the table. So, the entire table represents a kind of conclusion or summary of several sources on this topic.
Each crop in the garden has its own characteristics. One requires enough light, the other feels comfortable in partial shade. The requirements for irrigation and occupied space are also different. The root system of plants is also different. In some plants it goes deep into the soil, while in others the roots are located near the surface of the earth. In addition, some plants have a detrimental effect on one or another pest. What if we take into account all the features of garden crops and combine them during planting?
Compatibility of crops in the garden It will make it possible not only to rationally use the area for planting, but also to naturally protect plants from diseases and pests, to ensure proper growth and maturation for plants, thereby increasing the quality and quantity of the harvest.
If you place crops correctly on your site, then even in non-black soil conditions and a small plot it is possible to get a decent harvest from the garden. Crop compatibility in the garden is practiced by mixed and compacted crops. Cultures must be selected taking into account their mutual influence on each other.
Compatibility of crops in the garden
B azil gets along well with peas and kohlrabi, but does not like being next to cucumbers.
Eggplant I agree to be adjacent to green annual herbs, onions, beans, peppers, bush beans, spinach, thyme, amaranth. Fennel and peas are not the most suitable neighbors for eggplant.
B oby vegetable they feel great with peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, fennel, garlic and pumpkin are incompatible with beans.
Peas will be happy next to white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic herbs, spinach and lettuce. On the contrary, he will not be happy with onions, tomatoes, beans, garlic, or zucchini.
Mustard perfectly compatible with cabbage (white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower), peas, radish. Other plants in the garden will also suit mustard as neighbors.
D icon, for example, he doesn’t like his neighbors at all and is not fit to be a neighbor himself!
Dynya compatible with sweet corn, pumpkin, zucchini, radishes. But it doesn’t get along well with onions and potatoes.
And medicinal ssop Doesn't get along well with crops in the garden.
Go to the abacus grows well next to tomatoes, beets, onions, corn, melon, pumpkin, borage, nasturtium. Potatoes and white cabbage are bad neighbors for zucchini.
Cabbage cabbage feels great next to dill, celery, onions, garlic, lettuce, potatoes, cucumbers, radishes, beets, beans, spinach, mint, nasturtium, marigolds, and is not friendly with tomatoes, carrots, table beans and climbing beans and peas.
Broccoli compatible with potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beets, celery, sage, chard, marigolds. Broccoli does not get along well with tomatoes and beans.
To apusta kohlrabi will be happy to be next to onions, cucumbers, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, beets, peas, fennel, spinach. Bad proximity to tomatoes and beans.
To leafy cabbage gets along well with all plants in the garden, but especially with late white cabbage and potatoes.
To the apusta savoy does not get along well with all crops in the garden.
Cauliflower will feel comfortable with potatoes, cucumber, lettuce, celery, beans, beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, sage. Neighborhood with tomatoes and strawberries will not work.
Potato gets along well with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, eggplant and onions, beans, calendula, corn, onions, radishes, radishes, garlic, but absolutely will not tolerate the proximity of tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, sorrel, fennel.
To the spring salad He will be happy to have radishes next to him, but other plants in the garden will not bother him.
Kruknek and Lagenaria love to grow up alone.
Corn will be favorable to peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers, pumpkin, beans, beans, and salad. Does not get along well with beets and fennel.
Leek a good neighbor for onions, carrots, celery.
Bulb onions compatible with Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, chicory, savory, potatoes, strawberries. It will feel bad next to peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, and radish.
Garden marjoram Compatible with carrots, but will not tolerate cucumbers nearby.
Carrot It is good to plant next to tomatoes, peas, broccoli, leeks, onions, cucumber, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beets, sage, spinach, radish, celery. Incompatible plants for carrots: dill, anise, fennel, cabbage, chard.
O Gurtsy It is very good to plant with peas or late white cabbage, sweet corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel, but they should not be planted next to potatoes and aromatic herbs. Tomatoes, sage, asparagus, zucchini, rhubarb, turnips, and leeks will also be bad neighbors.
P asternak goes well with salad. But his friendship with onions and garlic fails.
P Attison prefers loneliness, he does not like anyone's proximity.
Pepper compatible with eggplants, tomatoes, basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, and onions. Will not be too happy with dill, fennel, cucumber, kohlrabi.
Leaf parsley will be happy to share a bed with basil, onions, cucumbers, asparagus, tomatoes, beans, and carrots. She won’t be too happy with head lettuce.
Reven goes well with peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans and spinach. But he will not be happy with turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes and onions.
R edis goes well with cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomatoes, beans, beans, fennel, spinach, zucchini, pumpkin. It will not suit its proximity to onions and chard beets.
Radish friends- beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumber, pumpkin and tomato (plant without thickening), and enemies hyssop, onions, fennel.
Repa feels good next to onions (all types), beets, spinach, celery, lettuce, bush beans, dill. It is important to plant plants freely in the garden bed. Turnips will feel uncomfortable next to potatoes.
From alatu Such neighbors as: cabbage, carrots, beets, dill are suitable.
Beet gets along well with all cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, and beans. A bad combination with potatoes and mustard.
Celery compatible with white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, onion, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach. Celery is not compatible with lettuce and potatoes.
With parge grows well next to basil, parsley and tomato. Onions of all kinds are bad neighbors for asparagus.
Tomatoes (tomatoes) will grow well with basil, cabbage, all onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach. Bad companions for tomatoes are peas, potatoes, kohlrabi cabbage, quinoa, cucumbers, turnips, dill, fennel.
Pumpkin goes well with zucchini, squash, and melon. The pumpkin will not be happy only with potatoes.
Beans ordinary grows wonderfully next to peas, cabbages, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, pumpkin, garlic, and fennel do not get along well with common beans.
Bush asol compatible with cucumber, potato, cabbage, lettuce, turnip, radish, radish, rhubarb, celery, spinach, tomato. It will not be a very good combination with asparagus, string beans, zucchini, and fennel.
Horseradish goes well with potatoes.
Ts Ikoriy salad will accept onions, carrots, tomatoes, and fennel well.
Black garden compatible with watercress, onions, parsley, tomatoes, beans, dill, spinach. A cucumber is not suitable as a neighbor.
Garlic will readily make friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsley, lettuce, tomatoes, beets, celery, and beans. Garlic will not grow comfortably next to peas, cabbage, and beans.
Spinach compatible with the following crops: cabbage (all types), potatoes, carrots, turnips, garden strawberries, beets, beans, tomatoes. Zucchini, asparagus, and fennel do not go well with spinach.
For convenience, use the table of crop compatibility in the garden:
Vegetable crop compatibility table:
![](https://i0.wp.com/ogorodland.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/%D1%81%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BC%D0%B5%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82%D1%8C-%D0%BA%D1%83%D0%BB%D1%8C%D1%82%D1%83%D1%80-2.jpg)
Another important aspect when selecting components for mixed crops on your site is:
The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects
Onion has a repellent effect on spider mites;
M akhorka for cabbage fly;
Garlic And wormwood cruciferous flea beetles will not like it;
tomatoes have a bad effect on the copperhead and moth;
The smell of celery repels cabbage fly.
You can also fight harmful insects with the help of wild plants
For this, gardeners and gardeners often use infusions.
For example:
The drug from chamomile inflorescences repels and even kills many garden pests.
To prepare the drug, chamomile inflorescences are collected and dried. After which they are ground into powder and mixed with an equal amount of road dust.
For spraying take 200 g. powder, stir in a small amount of water and add water to the norm of 10 liters. This drug is absolutely harmless, and it can be used to treat various crops even before harvesting.
Against aphids and spider mites, which greatly harm cucumbers and cabbage, plants are sprayed with an infusion of potato tops.
In order to prepare such an infusion, we need 1.2 kg of crushed mass. Infuse for 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and filter.
For the same purpose you can use:
ABOUTcreatures of stepchildren and tomato tops.
To do this, take green mass at the rate of 40 grams per 1 liter of water and, after chopping, boil over low heat for up to 30 minutes. One glass of the decoction obtained in this way is enough for 1 liter of water. Add 30 grams of soap or washing powder to the prepared decoction and spray the plants.
An infusion of onion peels, chamomile, tobacco, garlic, yarrow, horse sorrel roots and dandelion leaves also helps against aphids and mites.
We will tell you more about pests and crop compatibility in detail in future publications.
Great( 89 ) Badly( 3 )
There are plant species that get along well with each other and certain species that slow down the growth of their neighbors and grow slowly themselves. In general, some plants love each other and some hate each other.
Combined plantings can be quite complicated and often even too complicated, but with experience you will begin to understand better and the process will go faster. The main thing is not to get carried away with excessive planning, otherwise the pleasure of planting will wane.
Nobody says that you can’t grow certain plants in the same garden, the main thing is not to plant them next to each other. Below is a table with which you can see which plants get along well with each other and which do not.
Combined plantings are not such an easy task. There are criteria such as the age of the plants, their number in the garden bed, and the distance between plants. With the right approach, you can figure out for yourself what is better or worse for certain species.
Vegetable compatibility table.
Plant | Good neighbors | Bad neighbors |
Asparagus | Tomatoes, parsley, basil | |
Beans | Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, cabbage, eggplant | Onion, garlic, gladius, chives |
Bush beans | Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery | Onion |
Climbing beans | Corn, sunflower | Onions, beets, kohlrabi, cabbage |
Beet | Onion, kohlrabi | Beans |
Cabbage (cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi) | Aromatic plants, potatoes, celery, dill, hyssop, chamomile, sage, mint, rosemary, beets, onions | Strawberries, tomatoes, string beans |
Carrot | Peas, lettuce, chives, leeks, onions, rosemary, sage, tomatoes | Dill |
Celery | Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage | |
Chives | Carrots, tomatoes | Peas, beans |
Corn | Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, melon, pumpkin, zucchini | Tomatoes |
cucumbers | Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers, lettuce | Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
Eggplant | Beans, potatoes, spinach | |
Leek | Onions, celery, carrots | |
Salad | Carrots and radishes, strawberries, cucumbers, onions | |
Melon | Corn, nasturtiums, radishes | |
Onion | Beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, leeks, chamomile, peppers | Peas, beans |
Parsley | Tomatoes, asparagus | |
Peas | Carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn | Onions, garlic, gladiolus, potatoes, chives |
Potato | Beans, corn, cabbage, marigolds, eggplants (as bait for the Colorado potato beetle) | Pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, sunflowers, tomatoes, raspberries |
Pepper | Onion | |
Pumpkin | Corn | |
Radish | Peas, nasturtiums, lettuce, melon, cucumbers | Hyssop |
Spinach | Strawberry, eggplant | |
Zucchini | Nasturtiums, corn | Potato |
Strawberry | Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce (on the border), onion | Cabbage |
Sunflower | cucumbers | Potato |
Tomato | Chives, onions, parsley, asparagus, marigolds, nasturtiums, carrots | Corn, kohlrabi |
Turnip | peas |
List of herbs, their properties and plants that go well with them.
Plant | Properties |
Basil | Companion plant for tomatoes; actively dislikes rue; improves growth and taste; repels flies and mosquitoes |
Borage | Companion plant for tomatoes, zucchini and strawberries; repels tomato worms; improves growth and taste |
Caraway | Plant everywhere; loosens the soil |
Cat mint | Plant along the edge; repels earthen fleas |
Chamomile | Companion plant for cabbage and onions; improves growth and taste |
Chives | Companion plant for carrots; improves growth and taste |
Dill | Companion plant for cabbage; does not like carrots, promotes the growth and health of cabbage |
Fennel | It is better not to plant in the garden; most plants do not like being next to it |
Linen | Companion plant for carrots and potatoes; repels potato beetles; improves growth and taste |
Garlic | Plant next to roses and raspberries, repels beetles, promotes growth and health |
Horseradish | Plant in the corners of a potato field to repel potato bugs |
Hyssop | Repels cabbages; companion plant for cabbage and grapes. Do not plant next to radishes |
Melissa | It is better to plant throughout the garden |
Lovage | Promotes plant growth, improves taste |
Marigold | Excellent at repelling pests, can be planted throughout the garden |
Marjoram | Improves taste, can be planted anywhere |
Mint | Companion plant for tomatoes and cabbage; Promotes healthy growth, improves taste, repels cabbages |
Nasturtium | Companion plant for radishes, cabbage and pumpkin; plant under fruit trees; improves growth and taste |
Peppermint | Planting among cabbage repels pest butterflies |
Petunia | Protects beans |
Calendula | Companion plant for tomatoes, but can be planted throughout the garden, repels pests |
Purslane | Repels pests |
Rosemary | Companion plant for cabbage, beans, carrots and sage; repels pests |
Sage | Plant with rosemary, cabbage and carrots, keep away from cucumbers; scares away cabbages |
Sagebrush | Plant throughout the garden as a companion plant for cabbage; improves taste and promotes growth; scares away cabbages |
Garden savory | Plant with beans and onions; improves taste and promotes growth |
Tansy | Plant under fruit trees; companion plant for roses and raspberries; repels flying insects and ants |
Tarragon | Useful anywhere in the garden |
Thyme | Repels cabbage caterpillars; plant throughout the garden |
Valerian | Useful anywhere in the garden |
Yarrow | Plant along borders, paths and next to aromatic herbs; increases essential oil production |
With the onset of spring, an active time begins for all gardeners and gardeners. They begin to spend more and more time on their plots, trying to grow as many different crops as possible, sometimes in a relatively small area. Strawberries (garden strawberries), with their juicy and tasty fruits, are usually grown by almost everyone. But not everyone knows what to plant next to strawberries so as not to harm them and grow a rich harvest of these wonderful berries.
In fact, strawberries are a fairly unpretentious plant and peacefully coexist with many vegetables, fruit plants and flowers. However, some crops can have a rather negative impact on its growth and reproduction. We will tell you in detail how to choose the right neighbors for your strawberries.
The importance of proper crop rotation
First, let's talk a little about which plants are good predecessors for strawberries and which are not. Crop rotation is the most important agrotechnical measure; with its help, the soil replenishes its natural reserves. Most crops are not planted in the same place each year because they draw different amounts of nutrients from the soil. Another reason for the need for crop rotation is that different plants respond differently to weeds, diseases and insect pests. Strawberries have some pests, but cucumbers, for example, have completely different ones.
This rule does not apply only to potatoes, tomatoes and legumes - they are able to successfully bear fruit for many years in one place without depleting the soil. Strawberries usually produce a good harvest for 3-4 years, and then they need to be transplanted to another area. Therefore, you should know which crops will be good predecessors for garden strawberries, and which ones are better to plant after them.
What to plant after strawberries
Each plant has its own requirements for soil, fertilizers, etc. Strawberries love organic fertilizers, loose and well-fertilized soil, which should contain sufficient amounts of potassium, nitrogen and microelements. This plant has a deep root system, therefore, observing the principle of alternation, it is better to plant crops with shorter roots in front of it. Another important point in crop rotation is that after a disease suffered by a previous plant, a crop that exhibits sufficient resistance to it should be grown in this place next year.
When deciding what to plant after strawberries, experienced gardeners usually opt for root vegetables or legumes.
You can safely plant:
- cucumbers;
- radishes and turnips;
- onion and garlic;
- , beans, lentils.
Old strawberry bushes must be dug up and burned to destroy pests and pathogens. Then carefully remove all weeds and dig the soil deeply.
- rosacea raspberry;
- cloudberries;
- rose hip.
These plants have many diseases and pests in common with garden strawberries. They also have almost the same requirements for soil composition.
The best predecessors of strawberries
The best crops that grew in the garden bed before planting strawberries on it are:
- radish;
- parsley;
- spinach;
- garlic;
- turnips and radishes;
- legumes;
- carrots and beets;
- corn.
Bulbous flowers will also be useful predecessors:
- hyacinths;
- tulips;
- daffodils, etc.
If the area of the plot allows, agronomists recommend growing strawberries after black fallow or soil improvement using green manure plants:
- wiki;
- alfalfa;
- buckwheat:
- clover;
- grain crops, etc.
Among other green manures, alkaloid lupine is considered the most suitable for strawberries. It produces substances that are poisonous to wireworms, but is absolutely harmless to berries, without affecting their taste or edibility in any way.
After digging, the plants will remain in the soil. They will improve its structure, enrich it with nitrogen and have a positive effect on weed suppression. It is strictly not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.
Rules for planting strawberries
Combined planting allows you to economically and rationally manage the space of your garden, especially if it is small. In addition, beneficial neighbors have a beneficial effect on each other, improving the condition, taste and nutritional value of the fruit. Another advantage of such plantings is that the plants protect each other from diseases and pests.
There are four rules for planting plants together that it is advisable for every gardener to know and follow.
- Rule 1. Crops that need the same nutrients should not be planted next to each other. They will try to take them from each other, and as a result, both plants will not develop well and bear fruit.
- Rule 2. The proximity of plants that have different watering requirements is also undesirable. It turns out that one crop will not have enough water, and the second may suffer due to excessive watering.
- Rule 3. Plants should not shade each other. This can only be done if one of the crops requires shade or diffuse lighting.
- Rule 4. If plants that have common diseases and pests are planted in the same bed or nearby, you can destroy two crops at once. Such a landing is strictly not recommended.
In the case of growing in greenhouses, it is important that the humidity, light and air temperature are suitable for each of the plants.
As for strawberries, they require soft, loose soil rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It also needs plenty of watering and sufficient, but not too bright, lighting. Garden strawberries can be affected by late blight, so plants that carry this fungus should not be planted next to them. Of the pests, the most dangerous for berries are and.
Mulching strawberry beds with coniferous (spruce or pine) needles has a positive effect on its taste.
To get a good, abundant harvest, you need to select neighbors for strawberries, following the above recommendations and rules of crop rotation.
Neighborhood with root vegetables
The best neighbor for garden strawberries among root vegetables is root parsley. Planted between berry bushes, it will repel snails and slugs. Also a good combination is strawberries and carrots, but you don’t need to mix it with parsley, you need to choose one thing. But both carrots and parsley go well with garlic or onions.
You can also plant next to strawberries:
- beets;
- radish.
It is better to choose varieties for planting whose fruiting time coincides with that of strawberries. Radishes can be planted directly between the rows; to do this, leave a distance between the rows of 50-70 cm. And it is better to place radishes or beets in adjacent beds, but without combining them with each other, but by choosing one of the crops.
Combination of strawberries with bulbs and herbs
Among bulbous plants, strawberries get along well with garlic and onions. Just don’t plant them next to each other, since onions and garlic have common diseases and pests. In terms of usefulness, garlic is especially worth noting. It repels the fungus that causes late blight, and the berry is very susceptible to this disease, especially some varieties. Root parsley, already mentioned above, works well with garlic.
Strawberries and onions also go well together. If you also plant carrots nearby, these crops will repel pests from each other, and at the same time protect the strawberry beds. Onions as a neighbor also promotes the rapid growth of berries and the reproduction of strawberries, eliminating the problem of rotting bushes.
Among green crops, the berry goes well with plants such as:
- sorrel;
- spinach;
- borage;
- various types of salads.
The majority of green crops are unpretentious and do not deplete the soil. They do not share any common pests with strawberries. And with the right planting scheme, they can create some darkness - in the southern regions, where the sun is active, this will be very useful. According to reviews from experienced gardeners, greens accelerate the growth of strawberry tendrils, which is important for vegetative propagation. In addition, green crops do not require special care, and herbs (coriander, basil, thyme, anise, tarragon, etc.) repel many pests.
Legumes and strawberries
Plants of the legume family occupy one of the leading positions in the list of neighbors useful for garden strawberries. These are peas, various varieties of beans and lentils and other crops. Thanks to their root system, they “loose” the soil and supply it with nitrogen, which is beneficial for the berries. The beds with legumes can be positioned so that the strawberries are slightly shaded and receive diffused rather than direct lighting.
However, legumes, by producing nitrogen, can make the soil too acidic. To avoid this, you can use fertilizers containing alkali. And you will have to do more careful weeding, because many weeds also grow very willingly next to legumes.
Strawberries and flower crops
In addition to vegetables and herbs, strawberries go well with flowers, especially tulips and irises. According to experienced gardeners, they are able to increase the yield of garden strawberries several times, well promoting their growth. This applies to the greatest extent to varieties of remontant strawberries. In addition, irises and tulips help the heat-loving plant endure cold winter periods more easily.
In addition to them, you can plant other flowering plants next to the strawberry bed (or directly on it):
- peonies;
- fern;
- jasmine;
- marigolds, etc.
These flower crops also have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden strawberries.
Flowers such as are worthy of special attention. With their properties they repel many pests:
- nematode;
- weevil;
- mole cricket;
- onion fly, etc.
In addition, these flowers protect against fusarium, which is very important for strawberries.
You can plant marigolds not only in beds and between rows, but also along the entire garden perimeter. It is also useful, when digging up the soil in spring, to scatter finely chopped marigold stems in it.
The proximity of strawberries to trees and shrubs
The proximity to various trees and shrubs is also favorable for strawberries. They have a good effect on berries, pines, sea buckthorn, grapes, etc. The main thing is that the trees do not shade the beds too much.
Under no circumstances should strawberries be planted next to a birch tree; it does not tolerate such proximity very well. So much so that you may not see any harvest at all, destroying all the berries.
Plants that should not be planted with strawberries
For some reason, some gardeners have an ingrained opinion about the almost absolute unpretentiousness of strawberries and the ability to plant them with a wide variety of plants. This statement is partly true: you can plant anything and with anything. The only question is how this will affect the harvest, and simply the survival of the plant.
Here is a list of plants that agronomists categorically do not recommend planting strawberries next to:
- crops of the nightshade family;
- plants of the clove family;
- raspberries;
- cabbage;
- horseradish;
- sunflower;
- Jerusalem artichoke.
The worst neighbors for garden strawberries will be crops of the nightshade family: tomatoes and potatoes, especially the latter. In addition to the fact that it consumes substances necessary for strawberries, it is a carrier of late blight. Such a neighborhood can very quickly (in 1.5-2 months) destroy a strawberry bed.
Garden strawberries also do not get along well with plants of the clove family. And sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil for a long time and can harm not only strawberries, but also other plants, especially considering that the husks of sunflower seeds are poisonous. It is strictly not recommended to plant these plants near strawberry beds.
This also applies to raspberries, which many summer residents often try to plant next to strawberries - and completely in vain, since raspberry bushes shade the strawberry beds and greatly dry out the soil. As a result, garden strawberries often stop bearing fruit altogether.
Cabbage is an undesirable neighbor, as it needs the same substances as strawberries. In addition, it requires constant and abundant watering in much larger quantities than garden strawberries. These incompatible crops should not be planted in the same area.
Every gardener who grows strawberries always hopes to get a bountiful harvest of these delicious, wonderful berries. Today we told you about which plants will contribute to this, and which will only cause harm. If you take into account local climatic conditions, do not forget about proper crop rotation, and also provide careful care for the plant (timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds), then the grateful berry will certainly please the owner with a rich harvest.
Compatibility and incompatibility of plants in the garden (trees, shrubs, grapes, strawberries, garden crops)
Go straight to the table ->
I very carefully studied the issue of plant compatibility in the garden through scientific work and in practice. I will share my conclusions with you.
Some plants in the garden don't get along with each other. Reasons for plant incompatibility
there are the following:
1) the roots of neighboring plants lie at the same depth and prevent each other from growing,
2) one neighboring plant releases substances that are harmful and unpleasant to another neighboring plant,
3) neighboring plants simultaneously consume nutrients (some category), which is why both lack them,
4) one plant attracts or provides “shelter” for pests of a neighboring plant.
There are other reasons.
Respectively plants can be good friends
, whose roots are located at different levels, which release substances useful to their neighbors, do not compete for nutrients. You also need to take into account the watering regime. It happens that one plant needs abundant watering, while another prefers to receive watering only a few times a year. It is clear that it is very undesirable to plant them next to each other. Well, you need to think about the shadow. If one plant grows and shields its neighbor from the desired sun, then such a neighbor will not be able to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
That is why it is very advisable to take into account which plants in the garden can be placed next to each other and which cannot.
But here we must warn you that the various compatibility tables that you find on the Internet are often not based on scientific information. The fact is that you won’t find serious, in-depth research on this topic during the day. Who will lead them in the absence of funding? So all these tables are often compiled based on the observations of individual gardeners and their exchange of experience.
Eat a few more nuances to consider
when placing plants in the garden, they are not related to compatibility or incompatibility, but they will certainly be useful to you when planning your garden.
1) We try not to plant those bushes under the trees on which the berries ripen during the period when the trees need to be sprayed. So that the poison does not get on the fruits of the bush. This approach applies not only to shrubs, but also to other “edible” plants. And not every poison needed to protect a tree should be allowed to its short-growing neighbors.
2) If our neighbor has good healthy pears near our fence, then perhaps we will also plant pears on his side so that they pollinate each other. Pollinators are also important to consider.
I will give a table in which I summarized information about the compatibility and incompatibility of the following plants in the garden: apple tree, pear, quince, cherry, black cherry, plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, rowan, viburnum, walnut, hazelnut, hawthorn, serviceberry, black currant , red currant, golden currant, gooseberry, raspberry, blackberry, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, barberry, dogwood, rose hip, grapes, actinidia, Chinese lemongrass, strawberry. From it you will learn what can or even should be planted with in the garden, and what cannot be planted with.
Table of compatibility and incompatibility of trees, shrubs, vines, strawberries and other plants in the garden
Many gardeners note that it is good to plant herbs in the garden: anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, and tarragon. Their odorous substances repel many pests and inhibit the spread of diseases. But beware of eating such garden plants after they have been sprayed with pesticides