Manual drilling. How to drill metal correctly with a drill? Video: how to drill metal correctly

Greetings to everyone whose hands grow from the right place, as well as to those who sympathize with them! This time I want to invite you to slightly improve the most common power tool that almost every craftsman has. We'll talk about an electric drill.

It seemed that what else could be added to this tool, into which everything that was possible and impossible was crammed into it? Here you can drill with a blow like a hammer drill, and adjust the speed (which, by the way, has a lot of questions, but more on that next time), and a ruler for drilling to a given depth, and so on. However, a hand drill, unlike a drilling machine, has one drawback - it is problematic for it to drill a strictly vertical or horizontal hole, and it is difficult to control perpendicularity in two planes. Surely many have encountered such a situation when they had to ask someone to coordinate the position of an instrument higher-lower or right-left. For example, in order to embed a latch into an interior door, you need to drill a ø22mm hole in the end of the leaf. strictly horizontally, and if drilling along the axis of the canvas is a matter of eye, then with horizontality, even drilling along the jig, I managed to block the horizon.

What I bring to your attention is incredibly simple - you need to install two bubble levels on the electric drill - linear for horizontal and circular for vertical drilling. Let me make a reservation right away: the idea is not mine, but read many years ago in one of the magazines. It simply suggested screwing the level to the instrument, which I myself did more than once - I screwed the eye taken out of the level with electrical tape (yes, blue), slipping wood chips under the edges to match the axes. Then the electrical tape was gradually erased, unwound, and eventually the peephole was safely lost. That's why I decided to overhaul this device.

For homemade we will need:
1. Bubble levels - linear and circular
2. Drill
3. Chisel
4. Glue
5. Control level

First of all, we mark the window for setting the line level. The dimensions of the eye that I managed to get (from a Vi-ko plastic shield) are ø8x25mm. Taking advantage of the fact that the axial line is clearly visible on the plastic molding of the drill body, we dance 4mm from it in both directions.

Using a chisel, we cut out the window, especially without going deep since there is a stiffening rib inside on which you need to put a peephole.

We clamp a rod into the drill chuck, the other end of which is clamped in a vice according to the control level.

In this position, lubricate the cut window with glue and insert a peephole, accordingly placing the air bubble in the desired position.

Let the glue dry and proceed to the next stage of modernization.
We cut a circular level into the “back of the head” of the drill, the dimensions of which are ø14x8mm. (were ordered on Aliexpress for a sundial, but were a little late) To do this, we first cut off a small area in order to drill a hole of small diameter (the relief of the handle is quite complex),

Using a chisel, select a hole for the peephole. There's not a lot of space there, but for an eye, if you sharpen it a little, it's quite enough.

The peephole is naturally glued to only one side of the body.

When improving an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TV, baseboards and much more.

In order to hang a photograph or a small painting, of course, you should not drill into the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this task. It is best to use dowels - nails from fastening brackets that secure computer network cables to walls. These cloves are of sufficient length, thick and hardened. It turns out that it can even be driven into a concrete wall.

Performing the operation of drilling holes in walls with modern equipment with power tools will not present any greater difficulty if you know how to drill correctly. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a jig for dust-free drilling.

How to drill a wall

A better tool than a hammer drill for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls has not yet been invented. But rarely does anyone have the luxury of having such an expensive tool on their household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.

Drill selection

When purchasing an electric drill, you need to be guided by the following technical characteristics.

The power of the drill must be at least 600 W. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the ability to smoothly adjust them from zero to maximum. The presence of reverse rotation (switch for the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The best chuck is a quick-release chuck; you won’t have to waste time clamping drills and constantly searching for a lost key. The diameter of drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.

The presence of a switchable hammer drilling function. Of course, when this function is enabled, the drill will not become a full-fledged hammer drill, but drilling walls will be much easier and faster, and here’s why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand static load - pressure very well. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - impact. Karatekas, with a strong blow, easily break a brick in two with the edge of their palm. When drilling with a drill without a hammer function, there is simply pressure from the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on to the material, so drilling is slow and the drill becomes very hot due to friction. Drilling with impact is completely different. Upon impact, the drill punctures a part of the material with its cutting edge, and, falling with an impact into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of particles of the material. Something similar to chiseling is happening.

Drill selection

Walls made of wood, plasterboard, and foam concrete can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by cutting edges made of carbide material welded onto a regular drill, usually Pobeda. Less commonly, artificial diamond.

The pobedite insert is clearly visible at the end of the top drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobedit drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.

Using drills with pobedite surfacing, you can drill a hole no more than 10-15 cm deep. For drilling to greater depths, for example, to drill through a wall, use a drill. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. Even the cutting edges of the drill are made not sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer drill function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.

Drills come with a shank diameter of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS+ or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a regular jaw chuck. The standard and diameter of the drill are stamped on its shank.

If you need to drill through a thick wall, for example half a meter, then the passage is carried out in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but of different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, drill the wall with a 20 cm long drill to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and finish drilling with a 50 cm long drill. The drill for such work must be powerful enough. Of course, the drill is not designed for such a load and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. To perform this type of work, it is better to rent a real hammer drill.

How to drill a wall

Before you start drilling into a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no electrical wires or other cables running under the intended location in the plaster. Otherwise, you can damage the electrical wiring and get under voltage yourself.

How to avoid getting caught in a wire

It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch or socket. Usually, wires extend upward from them in a vertical direction to the junction box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians; to save wire, hidden wiring is often laid diagonally. Here's an example of this. When I made repairs and moved the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.

But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. The wire will also go from the chandelier to the nearest box.

Usually the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check, use a blunt instrument, such as a screwdriver, to dig into the wall to this depth. If no wires are found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, up to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press too hard on the drill and after deepening every couple of millimeters, visually check whether the wire is caught.

There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of wires in the wall. Here are some of them that are not expensive, made in China, but nevertheless work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper electrical wiring at a recessing depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made of aluminum wires can only be detected in metal detector mode.

Wiring detection is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent beep. In metal detector mode, when detected, the diode lights up constantly and the sound produced is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Krohn-type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and suspended ceilings, since the load-bearing structures are attached with self-tapping screws near the ceiling, exactly where electricians usually lay the wiring.

Drilling holes in reinforced concrete

Brick walls can be drilled with a Pobedit drill without much difficulty. We decided on the location, attached the jig and, pressing hard on the drill, drilled a hole. It happens that you come across burnt bricks in the wall, which drills more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the impact mode turned on, pressing harder on the drill handle, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.

I bring to your attention a great video where you can see how a brick wall is drilled using an ordinary drill with a hammer drill function and a drill with pobeditovy surfacing. A hole was made in the brick wall for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.

As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful, When drilling for a long time, the drill heats up to a high temperature and If you touch it, you can get a severe burn. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill in water.

Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is made of 600 or 500 grade cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only grade 400 cement is used. In old houses, sometimes there are columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete. They are very difficult to drill and take a long time.

When making concrete blocks and wall panels, for strength, they install iron reinforcement welded together perpendicularly to each other, which is corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, and add granite crushed stone. A pobedite drill is not able to overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, while drilling, the drill suddenly stops going deeper, it means it has encountered reinforcement or granite. The reinforcement can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you don’t have a simple drill on hand and it is permissible to move the location of the hole, then you can move it diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble when struck with a drill or narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each blow, to prevent the tool from jamming in the concrete and to make the work go faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter turn. After removing the obstacle, drilling continues with a Pobedit drill. For a drill with a hammer drill, granite stones are not an obstacle and can be drilled successfully.

Drilling tiles

To drill into tiles with a carbide-tipped drill not specifically designed for tiles, it is necessary to first remove the glaze after marking the drilling point.

This is done very simply, with a core, and if it is absent, you can use an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with a sharp end to chip off the glaze in the place of the future hole with very light blows and then drill like a brick wall at low speeds.

Drilling large diameter holes in the wall

When installing ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a large diameter hole in the wall, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide an electric meter in the wall, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.

At home, this problem can be solved using a carbide drill. The outline of the future hole is drawn on the wall with a pencil. On the outside of the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes of about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drillings with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, a sample of the wall material is made using a chisel and hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will be neater, but you will have to drill more holes.

If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to achieve through drilling, then you can drill in two stages.

If it is possible to drill a wall on both sides, then first perform drilling as described above on one side of the wall, then in the geometric center of the resulting sample, a hole is drilled in the wall to reach out, that is, through. Relative to the resulting hole, markings are made on the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.

If it is not possible to drill a thick wall on both sides, then you will have to do drilling and sampling in two stages. From the marking line on the outside, another line is drawn at a distance sufficient so that after the first sampling in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deeper into the made niche without touching the edges of the wall.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.

Drilling depth limiter

To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tube) of the required length on the drill bit until it stops in the chuck.

If you do not have a suitable cambric on hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape, winding several turns of it. This simple device will speed up your work and save you from having to stop drilling to measure the depth of the hole.

Jig for drilling holes without dust

Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place and if there is more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or, even worse, it is impossible to hang it, since the installed dowels do not coincide with the mounting ones loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling due to vibration it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is a simple technology that allows you to drill two or more holes strictly in specified locations.

Precise hole drilling

It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or double-sided tape to the entire area of ​​the side of the conductor that is attached to the wall. At the same time, the adhesion of the jig to the wall surface increases many times over, and during drilling, the specified accuracy of positioning of the jig is ensured. The hole will appear exactly at the marking location.

Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, you have to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the jig, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.

To top it off, attach a plate to the end of the base of the conductor at a right angle. Thanks to this modification, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent contamination of the wallpaper and reduce the scattering of dust in all directions.

The proposed device is also indispensable when drilling holes for attaching skirting boards. Drill a hole in the jig at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, place the shelf on the floor and all the holes will be exactly at the required height from the floor, which will guarantee a tight fit of the plinth to the floor surface.

Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then it is impossible to perform accurate drilling without a jig.

To make a jig for precision drilling, a board, sheet of plywood or metal is suitable. After marking, the required number of holes is drilled in the sheet using an ordinary drill. Consider the case for fastening the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill that will be used to drill the wall, the second with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall using the jig for the precision drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.

The jig is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw into the hammered dowel and leveled using a water level so that the drilled holes are on the same horizontal plane.

Thanks to the use of a simple jig, which can be made in a few minutes from any available material, the holes were created exactly at a given distance from each other.

Using the same technology, you can drill a whole series of holes at a greater distance from each other. In this case, the outer holes are first drilled using the technology described above, the jig is screwed with two outer self-tapping screws, and then all other holes are drilled.

The proposed options for conductors are convenient when renovating an apartment, when dirt is common everywhere.
However, when the renovation is completed and the place is clean, drilling becomes stressful. You don’t want to stain your carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust.

Drilling without dust

When drilling walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This happens because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and throws it out heated in the chuck area. This measure makes it possible to make a drill of greater power with small dimensions and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I present a simple design that allows you to drill without dust.

The drilling jig for dust-free drilling is a modified previous version, but the shelf is replaced by a part cut from a plastic bottle. A piece of 9-11 ply plywood measuring 80x150 mm is cut out, and a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line. On the side where the sandpaper will be glued, a trapezoidal cut is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake during drilling.

A part is cut off from a plastic bottle so that the remaining part can be attached to the conductor. The width of the base of the conductor is selected based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter bottle will do. Insulating tape is wound onto the threaded part of the neck of the bottle until it reaches a size equal to the inner diameter of the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the required configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and secure them with a stationery stapler. You can close them with tape. There is no need for tightness here. Gaps of a few millimeters will not matter, since the suction power of even a low-power vacuum cleaner is excessive.

Then, using a furniture stapler, the formed part of the bottle is secured along the perimeter of the end of the base of the conductor, on the side where the sandpaper is not glued. We make a hole in the bottle for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, since the edges forming the hole will become thicker and last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. You can melt a hole with a nail heated on a gas stove until red.

We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, and do test drilling.

The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle or brick flour on the drilling surface!

Good mood to everyone! Today we’ll look at the issue of drilling precise holes in solid metal with a drill. The topic may seem quite simple, but still, there are certain secrets of skill, having mastered which you will drill holes with particular ease.

Drilling holes in metal using a drill and special tools.

At home, it is often necessary to drill holes in metal to install fasteners and other mechanical parts. Although in some cases it is possible to drill holes quite accurately using a conventional hand-held electric drill, to obtain high-quality work, you should use a vertical drilling machine. To change the rotation speed of the machine, you need to move the drive belt from one pulley to another.

Drill selection.

Regardless of the drilling device used, the size and shape of the hole drilled is determined by the drill bit used. A cylindrical hole (sometimes not entirely correct geometrically) is usually drilled with a twist drill. This drill is a pointed metal cylinder with a spiral channel running along the axis of the drill. In soft metals such as aluminum and copper, these drills often produce holes with jagged edges. To drill such metals, you can use a drill for sheet material, which is made in the form of a cone and has one cutting edge on the side.

Holes in metal should always be drilled using high-speed drills. Made from the hardest steels, these drill bits range in diameter from 0.5mm to 25mm or more.

Marking of drills and design features.

One of the options for marking drills (according to sizes) is to indicate their diameter in millimeters. To drill large recesses, you can install a hole saw instead of a drill - a cylinder with teeth that can cut holes up to 150 mm in size and a depth of up to two-thirds of the height of the saw itself. You can also use a special drill, which differs from the usual one by the presence of an elongated L-shaped cutting edge. Special drills are available for drilling conical or cylindrical recesses for the heads of fasteners, such as bolts, rivets or screws.

To give the drilled hole precise geometric dimensions, provided that the diameter of this hole does not exceed 35 mm, it is necessary to process it with a reamer. This processing is done manually or on a machine. Hand reamers are straight drills with four or more cutting edges that gradually machine the inside of the hole as they rotate. Machine reamers are installed in vertical drilling machines.

Precise drilling of metal on a machine.

When drilling precise holes, you should always use a special cutting fluid that reduces friction and cools the drill during operation. In addition, it is necessary to use clamps and a vice for precise, stationary installation of the workpiece. When marking the drilling site, you should use a center punch, with which a small depression is made at the drilling site.

When drilling on a machine, to determine the position of the hole, use a ruler to draw two short lines intersecting at right angles in the center of the hole. To prevent the drill from slipping, it is necessary to make a small depression in the found center using a center punch and a hammer.

Determination of tool rotation parameters.

Determine the required rotation speed and set the machine to rotate at this speed. To set the rotation speed, you need to open the casing cover and loosen the belt tension by unscrewing the handle that secures the motor in the casing. To change the speed, the engine moves forward and the belt is moved from one level of pulleys to another in accordance with the necessary change in speeds, which are determined from the nameplate or operating instructions. The lowest speed is achieved when the belt is placed in its lowest position - between the smallest motor pulley and the largest spindle pulley. On the contrary, the highest speed is achieved when the belt is installed in the uppermost pulleys. Next, you need to make sure that the belt is tensioned horizontally between the pulleys, move the engine to its original position and tighten the knob securing the engine to the casing.

Setting up tools and fixtures.

Before drilling begins, the drill is installed in the chuck and tightened. Don't forget to adjust the vertical movement of the spindle by lowering the drill along the workpiece and moving the stopper to the desired point on the graduated stopper movement scale. The spindle rises to a height sufficient to install the workpiece under the drill and is fixed in this position. The workpiece is moved so that the intended hole is exactly under the drill. The workpiece is clamped securely before drilling begins.

Subsequently, it is necessary to lower the spindle sleeve lock and turn on the drilling machine. Squeeze a drop of coolant and lubricant onto the recess, lower the drill with the lever and start drilling. Even pressure should be applied during operation. A brush is used to remove shavings and sawdust. The appearance of smoke from the drilled hole indicates the need to check the color of the metal shavings. They should be white or straw yellow. Blue color means overheating. In this case, you need to add cutting fluid or reduce the rotation speed. After finishing drilling, you must slowly release the feed handle and turn off the machine.

Drilling precise holes in metal with a hand drill.

If there is no need to maintain the precision that a vertical drilling machine provides, you can use a powerful hand-held electric drill. However, if this drill is not multi-speed, then when drilling holes in metal, it should be turned on for short periods of time by briefly pressing the switch in succession.

The key to success in most cases depends on how you hold the drill. Before drilling begins, the workpiece is clamped in a vice or pressed firmly to the table. Then, without turning on the drill, the end of the drill is installed on the point marked with the center punch. To increase the starting point, you can manually rotate the drill chuck several times while pressing down on the drill bit. After applying the cutting fluid, the voltage will turn on. The drill body is held motionless with the left hand, the tool itself is pressed with the right hand when the drill begins to increase speed. If possible, place a vertical square next to the drill to make it easier to install the drill in a vertical position. This will make it easier to drill precise holes.

If the drill cannot go deep into the surface of the metal workpiece, a second, larger depression is made using a center punch at the desired point.

Safety precautions when working with a hand drill.

When working with drills, one should not neglect the rules. To prevent the risk of accidents when drilling metal products, the following instructions must be strictly adhered to:

• It is prohibited to drill a product that is held only by hands;
• It is forbidden to work with loose long hair or loose clothing that is not fastened, as well as wearing gloves, since there is a danger of the glove material being caught by the drill;
• Safety glasses should not be neglected;
• Before turning on the machine, make sure that the drill in the chuck is tightened tightly and the key is removed.

Perhaps we'll end here. Drilling precise holes in metal is useful not only at home but also when performing industrial tasks.

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Andrey was with you!

Drilling metal with a drill is somewhat more difficult than wood, brick or concrete. There are also some peculiarities.

For convenience, we have combined practical advice on this type of work into step-by-step instructions.

1. You will need the following tools: drill, drill, coolant (preferably machine oil, but water can also be used), punch, hammer, safety glasses.
2. When drilling metal on a horizontal surface, place a wooden block under the product and fix it as best as possible. When working in a vertical position, rigid fixation is extremely important, since drilling must be strictly perpendicular.
3. We make markings, then use a center punch and a hammer to mark the center of the future hole.
4. Pour coolant into a small container.
5. We put on safety glasses.
6. Let's start drilling. Do not put strong pressure on the drill, because it works better at low speeds. If the drill is powerful, then the method of short-term activation is suitable until the tool has time to reach maximum speed.
7. Don't forget to cool the drill as often as possible .
8. When drilling occurs not strictly perpendicularly, but at an angle, there is a high probability that the drill will jam. If this happens, put the switch in the reverse position. This way you will avoid injury and will not break the drill.
9. If you did everything correctly, then even at home, using a low-power drill, you can drill a hole in metal up to 5 mm thick inclusive and with a diameter of up to 10-12 mm. We will talk about more complex tasks below.

Metal drilling work

It is possible, but this is in case of extreme necessity for shallow holes with a small diameter. Unprofitable.

It is better to use either standard metal drills with steel grade R6M5 or improved ones - R6M5K5.

The letter K in the marking indicates that this is an alloy with the addition of cobalt. On the market you can find a drill called “Cobalt”. We will not vouch for all manufacturers; we will only note that reviews of practical use in the vast majority of cases are positive.

How to drill with a step drill in metal?

Step drills are universal - just one can make holes of different diameters (from 2 to 40 mm). They are most effective when working with thin metal, when you need to get a neat edge. They are better fixed in the cartridge, they are easier to sharpen, and therefore, with proper use, they last longer, but they also cost more than usual. The principles of working with them are the same, but it is easier to drill large-diameter holes than with conventional twist drills.

Is it possible to drill metal with a Pobedit drill?

The principle of operation of metal drills is to cut and, with pobedite soldering, to crush materials. Brick, concrete, and stone are better suited for this. Therefore, as mentioned above, you can, of course, drill metal with a drill for concrete, but it will quickly become unusable and the victorious soldering will be destroyed.

Revolutions

What is the larger hole diameter? the lower the speed should be. The greater the depth? Therefore, you gradually need to reduce the pressure on the drill. With a drill diameter of up to 5 mm, the torque should not be higher than 1200-1500 rpm. Accordingly, 10 mm in diameter - no more than 700 rpm, 15 mm - 400 rpm.

How to drill holes in large diameter metal?

As a rule, most drills for household use have a power from 500 to 800 W, which allows you to drill holes with a diameter of up to 10-12 mm.

How to properly drill metal thicker than 10 mm with an electric drill?

In metal up to 2 mm thick, using step drills you can make holes up to 40 mm. With a thickness of 3 mm, bimetallic crowns are better suited.

Bimetallic crown

When drilling deep holes with any tool, you may sometimes need a magnet to remove the chips.

Metal drilling process

Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions, be sure to protect your eyes from chips, and if there is distortion and jamming, immediately turn off the drill and change the torque to reverse movement.

In situations where there is no electricity or where the noise of the tool operating may disturb others ( read: when can you make repairs so as not to quarrel with your neighbors?) – the ideal solution when drilling metal would be a hand-held mechanical drill, the so-called rotator. Low speed and pressure, no overheating, just what you need. Of course, there are also disadvantages - time-consuming and easy fatigue. In this simple “old-fashioned” way, you can drill holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm.

We hope our tips will be useful to you.

More information in this video.

Coolant for metal cutting

Drilling of rolled metal: types and technology

The drilling procedure can easily be called one of the most important metal processing technologies.

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The main purpose of drilling is to produce mounting and technical holes of various diameters, depths and shapes, thread cutting, counterbore and countersinking. This procedure is carried out on drilling machines of various sizes and configurations. The MTS Center company also produces stuffed oil seals.

Using the drilling method, carried out on modern equipment, and the use of special tools, various operations are performed, among which the following can be distinguished:

· Drilling cylindrical holes;

·​ Drilling holes with an oval or multifaceted configuration;

·​ Drilling, countersinking and even grinding existing holes.

Drilling technology involves the possibility of producing both blind and through holes in metal structures of various sizes and shapes. At the same time, using special equipment equipped with CNC, it is possible to ensure high accuracy of holes and prepare a product, for example a sliding support, for subsequent assembly or further operations prescribed in the technological process.

This method is used for processing products or workpieces made from various types of steel and cast iron. Naturally, for each material, a cutting tool (drill, countersink, reamer), as well as processing modes, lubrication and other parameters are individually selected.

This type of metalworking, such as drilling, is indispensable in various fields of industry, ranging from small enterprises engaged in small-scale production of components for equipment, to large factories that have a full production cycle for a certain range of products. The processing accuracy, as well as the characteristics of the holes produced by drilling, directly depend on the machines, tools and technologies used.

. Using an electric drill

The purpose of this is to drill holes in wood and metal. An electric drill consists of an electric motor connected to the drill chuck spindle through a series chain of fasteners. Look, that's right. In most cases, twist drills are used for drilling. The drill should penetrate deep into the material gradually, without jerks or jolts. If it is necessary to make a through hole, the pressure must be reduced as the drill advances.

At the bottom of the spoon drill there is a longitudinal groove with a sharp cutting edge and a screw tip that pulls the drill along with it, giving it a central direction. During operation, chips are not removed, as a result of which it is necessary to periodically remove the drill from the hole. It is quite difficult to make an accurate hole with this drill. When drilling, do not press the drill very hard, as the wood may split. For this reason, spoon drills are only suitable for jobs that do not require great precision, such as drilling holes for screws.

How to use an electric drill correctly

A center drill, compared to a spoon drill, has better characteristics. Its cutting part is a blade with a sharp end (center), a side cutter (road cutter) and a flat knife located along the radius. The drill is centered with the tip. It works as follows: the wood cut with a side cutter is removed in the form of a spiral strip with a flat knife. If you need to drill into hard wood, considerable physical effort will be required.

The most convenient are spiral, screw, cylindrical drills. The screw deepener, which has a conical shape, facilitates easy entry of the drill into the wood. Sharp incisors (road cutters), cutting wood around the circumference, are the end of the lateral screw ribbons. The cut wood is removed using a flat knife and rises upward in a spiral. The diameter of the hole being drilled is determined by road workers. For finishing work, drill bits with finely serrated tips are best suited.

Coarse-cut drills are necessary for working with soft wood. Working with a twist drill is much easier than all others. In some cases, when drilling, the wood breaks off at the point where the drill exits, and the hole itself becomes beveled. To avoid such troubles, you must follow the following rules:

1. The workpiece to be drilled must be securely fastened.
2. The centers of future holes should be marked with a pencil or an awl.
3. The accuracy of the drill direction must be checked twice: before starting drilling and when the drill enters a shallow depth.
4. When drilling deep holes, the direction of the drill can be checked by eye, guided by a line previously drawn with a pencil.

To drill blind holes, use a limiter, which is a wooden block. It is placed to the side of the drill and drilled until the stop makes contact with the chuck. Before starting work, a block is drilled with a larger diameter drill, obtaining a device for monitoring the drilling angle. It is possible to make several holes at different angles, which will subsequently serve as a standard. Next to each of them, make the necessary note to obtain a universal template.

Often, wood chips are observed at the point where the drill exits. To prevent this, you should closely monitor the sting coming out. As soon as it appears, you need to turn the part over and finish drilling. In general, drilling in one direction is possible, but in this case a small block of wood should be placed under the bottom of the workpiece.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to expand an already drilled hole. For this purpose, a wooden plug is placed in the existing hole and a drill is screwed into its middle. In this case, the plug acts as a centering link, guiding the drill along the axis of the smaller hole. You can also use a drill as an auxiliary tool for hollowing out sockets. To do this, you need a drill with a diameter equal to the width of the future hole. A series of nests are drilled to the required depth, and then the remaining jumpers are removed with a chisel.

During storage, to avoid damage to the drill head, screw a wine or wooden plug of a suitable size onto the tip. Don't forget - first of all!