Repairing a Lemax geyser with your own hands. Water block of a gas water heater - repair and adjustment of a gas-water unit. The gas heater does not light up

Repair of a geyser according to its complexity and number of possible technical problems can't be compared to any other home appliances. Only repairing gas boilers at home can be more complex and rich in possible technical nuances. If you can still try to repair the water heating device yourself, then it is best to entrust the maintenance and repair work of the heating boiler, regardless of the amount of built-in automation, the presence of a secondary circuit and the manufacturer, to a certified specialist.

What can you repair in a gas water heater with your own hands?

Of course, a gas hot water heater does not always wear out or break so thoroughly and irrevocably that it is impossible to do without the help of a specialist. According to reviews from the same mechanics of the gas maintenance service, in 70% of cases, repair of geysers comes down to routine maintenance and troubleshooting minor defects, usually associated with poor quality parts or improper adjustment.

The list of works available for repairing geysers at home can include the following:

• Minor repairs and repackaging of coupling and nut joints of pipelines;
• Replacing the elastic membrane in the water-gas column regulator;
• Cleaning and adjusting the operation of the draft sensor;
• Cleaning and washing the heat exchanger;
• Ignition board repair.

It is clear that there is a certain category of expensive hot water heaters, full of automation and electronics, which there is simply no point in even trying to repair at home. For example, repairing Electrolux or Vaillant geysers will cost less in a service center due to high cost spare parts The exception is particularly critical nodes, such as three-way valve or ignition board, it is better to buy them from official dealer, even if the price is higher. This is the only chance to carry out repairs and not destroy an expensive Italian or German speaker with substandard spare parts.

Repair of geyser Oasis

Chinese Oasis water heating devices have attracted attention on the domestic market, primarily due to their low price and simplicity of design, which allows for do-it-yourself geyser repair in almost any problem situation. The structure and format of the main parts are very similar to most domestic systems, so there are no problems with disassembly and repair, even if there are no repair instructions or diagrams on geyser Oasis.

It is known from practice that Chinese gas apparatus Oasis suffers from three types of defects:

• Rapid battery discharge;
• Failure of spark plugs;
• Water leakage on the seal of the membrane water pressure sensor.

In the first case, the problem with the batteries manifests itself in a rather unusual way; the indicator display pleases with blue or green light, but when you try to turn on the gas water heater, nothing happens. Repair of such a defect is carried out by simply replacing conventional salt batteries with alkaline cells with increased charge capacity. They should last for at least a year.

Disassembling the Oasis for repairs

If drops of water begin to appear under the column, this most likely means that one of the flow parts of the water heating apparatus will need to be repaired. To determine the cause of water leakage and carry out repairs, the Oasis must be disassembled. First of all, you need to remove external cladding apparatus. To do this, remove the handles and unscrew the screws in the lower part of the case.

The next step is to disconnect the connectors from the indicator panel and microswitch.

We gain access to the future place of repair - the membrane water pressure control unit.

We repair the gas water heater control unit

In order to remove the pressure control unit, you must carefully disconnect the microswitch connector and remove the two screws securing the heat exchanger flange to the unit body.

It is clear that before repairing a gas water heater, the water must be turned off and the remaining water pressure in the system must be released by opening the tap.

For repairs, additional removal will be required. gas block water heating apparatus and burner device.

The removed unit can be disassembled for repair by removing four steel screws. Typically, steel fasteners stick strongly to brass, so the joint is pre-treated with VD-5 or brake fluid.

The pressure control unit operates as follows:

It is clear that the surface of a steel rod, when in contact with rubber, intensively corrodes and becomes covered with cavities. Each movement of such a rod leads to catastrophic wear of the oil seal, which begins to leak within a year. In addition, during any repair, at the first opportunity it is necessary to change the membrane to a high-quality rubber one.

A situation often occurs when, before repairing the seal, the geyser begins to boil and spew steam. This suggests that the membrane also needs to be cleaned of dirt and, if possible, replaced.

Repair of the geyser electrode system

Chinese manufacturers of Oasis geysers always like to save on the quality of the materials used. An example is a situation where a new, fully operational gas water heater stops igniting even with a working water and gas control unit and ignition board.

The reason is the failure of one of the three spark plugs of the burner flame. The design of the burner device is such that in order to ignite the gas, it is necessary that all three spark plugs be in good working order.

Repairing the gas water heater ignition system begins with identifying the faulty spark plug. To do this, you need to remove the cladding, turn off the lights and shade the room. When starting the gas water heater, you can see how on one of the spark plugs the electric discharge strikes not into the gas flow, but much lower, into the housing.

The situation is extremely dangerous and requires urgent repair of the ignition system of the gas-air flow in the column. Repairs cannot be postponed, even if the column lights up the second or third time it is started. When starting into the fuel chamber and exhaust device pumped up a large number of mixture of gas and air, and if the ignition of the column is triggered with a long delay, an explosion and fire are possible.

For repairs, it is necessary to dismantle all three spark plugs, clean them of carbon deposits and oxidation products. One candle definitely pierces the body, the rest are unknown in what condition, so all three are put in an insulating heat-shrinkable polymer tube, at least three or four layers. During the repair, you will need to insulate the clamping bar in the same way, which secures the spark plugs to the burner body.

Repair of geyser Neva

Most models of Neva geysers have proven themselves to be simple and easy-to-repair water heating devices. They are far from the reliability of European models, but repairing them is much cheaper, and you can almost always do it yourself.

Failure and subsequent repair of a spark plug is considered by the rules to be an atypical case of breakdown, therefore, after performing repair work, it would be correct to look for the cause of the defect. Most often, plastic burnout occurs due to condensation flowing through the ventilation system onto the body of the gas burner.

How to repair a heat exchanger union nut

One of the most common defects of Neva geysers for almost all models is the low quality of the metal of the heat exchanger. According to the rules, the heat exchange circuit through which water moves should not come into contact with aluminum parts, for example, a gas burner or a control unit. Any such contact can cause electrochemical corrosion of the copper walls, and then repair will simply be useless.

In addition, the rules for tightening the union nuts that secure the heat exchanger to the regulator and outlet pipe are not always followed. With each heat exchanger removal and repair, the nuts cut a thin, barely visible path into the copper wall. Ultimately flared end and part copper pipe the tenth time the twists simply break off.

In this case, you have to trim and level the broken area, install a new nut with external thread and connect the heat exchanger to the block regulator with a conventional flexible hose. Any other repair option, as practice shows, turns out to be short-lived.

Repair of a microswitch in the geyser starting system

A situation similar to the Oasis with dead batteries also happens with the Neva gas water heater. When you try to start the Neva, the indicator board lights up, but the gas burner does not ignite. Sometimes the column can be turned on 4-5 times.

In this situation, repair of the microswitch is required due to premature wear of the part or incorrect adjustment of the unit.

The switch is located next to the water pressure control unit. When the column starts, the membrane on the block pushes out the rod, which unlocks the switch contact. Unlike the Oasis, all parts of the block, including the rod, are made of brass, so there is no corrosion; the microswitch itself must be repaired and replaced.

To carry out repair work, you need to disconnect the connector, unscrew two M3 screws and remove the switch body from the strip, as in the video

Replacing the microphone is easy. You can buy an original part for 400-500 rubles. in a specialized salon or purchase an analogue for 50 rubles. in any radio parts store. There is no difference for repairs; in both cases they will sell a part from Chinese consumer goods.

In order to carry out the repair, you will need to unsolder two wires with a connector from the switch legs, put on a heat-shrinkable tube and solder them to the contacts of the new part.

At the final stage of repair, the switch is screwed with old screws onto the mounting strip on the block. Next, you need to adjust the position of the microswitch body so that the rod completely releases the contact when moving. This is done using mounting screws. One of the screws bends with a radius; accordingly, by rotating it, you can move the switch body in the desired direction.

Repair of the Junkers geyser

The advantage of domestic geysers is their high resistance to overloads and low quality water, and primarily gas. Experts say that German equipment traditionally shows long service life without repair, but under one condition - the system must be protected from power surges in the network and equipped with protective filter elements that soften the hardness of the heated water.

But even in such conditions, you have to periodically carry out minor repairs on the Junkers geyser yourself. The reason is simple, automation, ignition and ignition devices turn out to be very sensitive to dirt, dust and rust in domestic gas. On dirty gas fuel, the igniter is the first to fail.

To restore the column, you will need to remove the cover and pull out by hand the thin profiled aluminum tube that ensures operation in standby mode. The tube is carefully cleaned with copper wire and washed with alcohol. Due to the high content of iron pentacarbonyl in the gas, fine metal dust falls on the walls of the gas pipeline, killing the spark plugs and igniter.

Filters practically do not retain pentacarbonyl, so craftsmen often replace the aluminum tube with a copper one of larger diameter. The new gas pipeline is wrapped around a heat exchanger, which ensures the decomposition of carbonyl in the pipe before entering the ignition zone.

In addition, dirty gas forces you to regularly open and clean the gas burner of the column.

Repair of heat exchangers of geysers

One of the most severe cases Column damage is considered to be burnout, fracture or through corrosion of the copper heat exchanger. In the first two cases, repairs are performed only by replacing the part with a new spare part. In the case of through corrosion, thin, 02.-0.5 mm holes are formed on the walls of the heat exchanger, through which water flows out of the circuit.

A defect, as a rule, is detected by intense soot formation, water leakage and a drop in pressure in the circuit when the tap is closed.

To repair the heat exchanger, you will need to remove it from the geyser mount. Next, the copper surface is cleaned of layers of soot and scale and subjected to a hydraulic test.

The easiest way is to identify the location of corrosion by pumping air or water under excess pressure. For example, the output of the heat exchanger is plugged with a rubber plug, and at the inlet hand pump air pressure is supplied. The geyser heat exchanger is immersed in a container of water and the location of the damage is determined.

You can repair the damage at home by soldering with copper-silver tin solder. The first is used to restore the hottest spots located close to the flame front. To seal with tin, the copper surface is etched with a solution of zinc in hydrochloric acid, heat it with a torch and tin it with a massive piece of solder. For normal operation the thickness of the tin patch should be at least 0.5-0.7 mm.

After repair, the heat exchanger is checked twice more - using traditional air injection and holding it under operating water pressure after installing the unit on a gas water heater. The pressure in the circuit should not drop for at least 15 minutes.

Bosch geyser repair

Water heating gas appliances produced by Bosch are distinguished by their compact size and enormous automation capabilities. The more components and mechanisms there are in the design, the greater the likelihood of failure.

Bosch water heating systems WR10 are characterized by two types of breakdowns: random shutdown after a successful start and leakage of seals due to high water hardness.

Arbitrary shutdown can occur for three reasons:

• Loss of draft in the chimney;
• The ignition electrode is dirty, as a result of which the automation does not recognize a very small ionization current and turns off the gas supply. Repair comes down to regular cleaning of the electrodes;
• Triggering of the heat exchanger overheating sensor.

The last case is the most relevant. The overheating sensor is a bimetallic plate with contacts. When a certain temperature is reached, the plate bends and opens the contacts.

To restore it, you first need to check the operation of the sensor, for example, short-circuit the contacts directly with a paper clip or copper wire. If the geyser continues to operate normally, then you need to buy and replace the sensor. Severe overheating means that the gas flow regulator will need to be adjusted and tested.

Instantaneous water heaters have a long service life and are easy to use. Over time, preventive or major renovation geysers, which is necessary to restore uninterrupted operation of the equipment and supply hot water to the house. The editors of the site today decided to devote a separate article to this issue. We will tell you about the main malfunctions of household speakers and how to fix them.

Read in the article:

Features of the geyser device and the principle of its operation

Surely many users have wondered why a gas water heater does not heat water well, does not ignite, or works intermittently. Before you begin troubleshooting, you should understand the design features of household speakers. Inside all flow systems domestic water heaters there is a heat exchanger, gas-burners and operating temperature sensors. In addition, pipelines are connected to the dispenser structure through which gas is supplied to the system, cold water is supplied, and hot water is also supplied to the consumer.

The principle of operation of the gas water heater is as follows: after opening the water tap, the valve is activated, gas enters the burner, and the candle ignites. As it burns, heat is generated, the temperature of which is regulated by a built-in sensor. Thus, water is heated using a coolant. The columns are equipped with a ventilation system, through which exhaust gas and steam are removed. Working temperature water is regulated by a built-in switch located outside the flow equipment.

How to turn on the gas water heater and adjust the temperature and pressure

Let's look at the features of enabling and adjusting parameters household appliance, if the column was dismantled for major repairs, or it was replaced with a new model. After installing and connecting all structural units equipment, turn on the burner and open hot water. Next, you need to measure the outgoing temperature and compare it with the incoming temperature (supply cold water) – the difference between the indicators should be about 25°C. If the outgoing liquid is heated for a long time or is completely absent, you should adjust the temperature using the gas supply knob (toggle switch).

You can achieve hot water at the desired temperature by adjusting the liquid pressure in the pipeline. If the water pressure is too weak, the temperature will become too high, or it will not be enough to turn on the column. High pressure, on the contrary, will lead to the fact that the liquid will not have time to heat up. The problem of poor water pressure can be solved in several ways.

A leaky membrane is a fairly common reason for the lack of hot water in the house. After replacing it, the device will cope with a large volume of incoming liquid without any problems.

How to check draft in a gas water heater: practical recommendations

Before starting the dispenser, it is imperative to check the draft, since the quality of the equipment’s operation will depend on the speed of movement of the exhaust gases in the chimney. In addition, this procedure is carried out to eliminate the possibility of poisoning carbon monoxide. To check the intensity of draft, gas service representatives use an anemometer. You can also use a fire flame brought to the ventilation shaft. To do this, you need to light a sheet of paper or hold a match to it: if the flame quickly rushes into the chimney, it means the draft is good and you can use the column.

Important! Weak draft of instantaneous water heaters can be formed due to blockages in the structural elements of the columns. This is easy to see if there is an uncharacteristic (deep orange or green) color of the flame in the burner. To remove soot, you need to clean the ventilation shaft and remove dirt from the device components.

Tools needed to repair a geyser with your own hands

If the gas water heater does not work, and you have to do-it-yourself repair faulty equipment, you should prepare the appropriate tools. To work, you will need adjustable and open-end wrenches, which are needed to unscrew and crimp the pipes and threaded connections.

You also need to prepare a set of simple and Phillips screwdrivers. Before starting work, you should purchase paronite gaskets to replace worn seals. Please note that tow should be used to seal the seams. If you need to troubleshoot electrical equipment, you will need a multimeter to measure a number of parameters. If a leak is detected in the heat exchanger and pipeline, you should prepare sandpaper, a soldering iron, rosin and solder.

Ways to eliminate common geyser malfunctions

Problem #1. Repair of a geyser heat exchanger due to scale formation

One of the reasons why the geyser does not turn on when the water is turned on is the formation of scale on the heat exchanger during operation. Its design consists of a pipeline and a metal casing. Water enters the pipes, where it is heated. Due to the high rigidity and high temperature deposits of limestone and salts form, which interfere with the normal operation of the column.

Expert opinion

VK design engineer (water supply and sewerage) LLC "ASP North-West"

“If cold water flows under good pressure when opened, and hot water flows in a thin stream, this indicates a clogged heat exchanger pipeline that needs to be flushed.”

To restore normal operation of the equipment, it is not necessary to dismantle the heat exchanger. Before starting repair work, turn off the gas and water supplies. Then you need to remove the union nut and drain the water from it.

You also need to unscrew the nuts on the outlet and inlet pipes of the device. Next, anti-scale agent is poured inside using a rubber hose. For these purposes, you can also use citric acid or vinegar solution.

After 3 hours, connect the pipes to the heat exchanger and check the tightness of the threaded connections. Then you need to open the water supply tap (hot). This must be done slowly so that the pressure does not splash the dirt all over the kitchen. When the scale and blockages melt away, the hot water pressure will increase. If necessary, the cleaning procedure is repeated several times. The problem of scale formation can be solved quite simply by installing filtration equipment.

Problem #2. The gas heater does not light up or lights up and immediately goes out

Now let's look at what to do if the gas water heater does not light. The main cause of this malfunction may be the lack of traction. This happens quite often due to clogging ventilation shaft. The problem is eliminated by cleaning the chimney channel using a brush with metal bristles.

Also, the column will not light if the membrane is damaged. It is often deformed, which is why the burner trigger does not work when opening the tap with hot water.

Membrane failure is determined as follows: it is necessary to maximize the water pressure by opening the valve all the way. If the heater turns on, the membrane must be replaced. To do this, the water assembly mechanism must be disassembled and the deformed membrane replaced.

Please note that silicone seals last much longer than rubber membranes, so to ensure long-term operation of the column, you should choose them. Also, the equipment may not turn on if the water inlet filter is clogged. Cleaning is simple: you need to unscrew the nut on the pressure supply side, remove and wash the mesh, then reinstall and check the device.

Problem #3. Why does a gas water heater go out spontaneously, and how to fix the problem?

If the column goes out, a common cause of this failure is failure temperature sensor. The bimetallic device protects it from overheating. Over time, the sensor insulation wears out, and the device often shorts to the housing, causing the safety valve to turn on.

This leads to chaotic operation of the gas water heater. In such cases, the temperature sensor needs urgent replacement. To avoid complex hardware failures, the device must be replaced by a qualified specialist, so it is not recommended to change it yourself.

Problem #4. Geyser does not heat water

Often users have to deal with the fact that the pressure is good, but the gas water heater does not heat the water well. This malfunction may be caused by insufficient power of the device. In addition, the heating of the water pressure may be too weak due to simple clogging of the system. It is also worth paying attention to the pressure in the gas pipeline - if it is too weak, the liquid entering the heat exchanger will practically not heat up. This problem can be solved by adjusting the hot water tap, cleaning the structural elements of the system, or complete replacement speakers for the model of the required power. Before you begin troubleshooting this problem, you should invite a gas appliance service technician.

Problem #5. Weak pressure of hot water from the gas water heater

We have already talked about the need to clean the heat exchanger from scale. It is its presence that causes certain difficulties for the normal operation of the device, since a clogged pipeline does not allow water to flow with good pressure. In addition to the blockage of this device, probable cause failure to turn on the column may cause the igniter to operate in idle move. When it burns for a long time, the heat exchanger body heats up, causing the liquid in it to evaporate.

This leads to the fact that there is no water flow in the pipeline, and the blockage is not washed out. Over time, the heat exchanger becomes unsuitable for further use. If cleaning is not possible, the unit should be replaced.

Problem #6. What to do if the gas water heater radiator is leaking

Long-term use of geysers leads to damage to the gaskets and the formation of cracks in the pipes and radiator. In practice, replacing it is quite expensive, because its cost is almost a third of the price of new equipment. Let's figure out how you can repair this unit yourself with minimal costs.

Table 1. Sequence of repair work on the geyser radiator

Problem #7. Replacing geyser gaskets

Due to exposure to high temperatures, over time, in the places where the pipes are connected, the gaskets harden or become deformed, resulting in a leak. It can be eliminated by simply replacing the sealing elements.

To unscrew and tighten the nuts, you will need a 24mm open-end wrench or an adjustable equivalent. After installing the new gasket, do not forget to wind 4-5 turns of FUM tape onto the pipe threads.

Problem #8. Popping noises are heard when the gas burner is turned on

The main reason for the formation of pops during operation of instantaneous water heating equipment is too high or low pressure in the gas pipeline. If the pressure is low, the mixture supplied to the column contains oxygen, which creates pops when ignited. At high blood pressure the flame, escaping from the igniter, also produces similar sounds. This problem is solved by adjusting the pressure of the gas flow. It is better to entrust this work to representatives of the gas service.

Problem #9. There is a smell of gas during operation

Often a problem arises in the operation of equipment such as a gas leak, which is accompanied by a persistent characteristic odor. If it is present, you should not use the column to avoid emergency situation. In this case, you need to call a gas service repair team.

Repair of geysers of popular brands at home

Features of repair of Bosch geysers

The high quality of assembly of Bosch geysers ensures long-term uninterrupted operation of water heating equipment. Thus, heat exchangers of the Therm 4000 and 6000 series models can last 6-10 years without the need for cleaning. To carry out prevention of the node, the column does not need to be removed.

Usually, questions about how to light a Bosch gas water heater do not arise. If there are interruptions in the operation of the equipment, the first step is to check the integrity of the gaskets and membrane. The water block or flow regulator may also fail. Basically, the repair consists of replacing the sealing elements.

How to repair a Junkers geyser yourself

Repair of Junkers speakers in most cases comes down to preventive measures. They consist of cleaning the pipes, replacing the membrane, removing carbon deposits, and adjusting the operation of the burner and valves. Complex types of repairs include setting up the control unit and restoring the water-gas system.

Repair of the Oasis geyser: brief instructions

Brief instructions for repairing the Oasis geyser (the equipment diagram is shown in the photo) is to identify typical faults and their elimination. So, if the automatic ignition system does not work, you need to clean the contacts and replace the batteries.

If there is no traction, the column will not turn on. The problem can be resolved by cleaning the ventilation shaft. The same will happen if the water pressure regulator is set to the minimum level, since in this case the membrane will not work and the gas valve will not open. To fix the problem, just set the regulator to maximum.

Quite often, in geysers, the mesh filter becomes clogged, into which small particles fall, reducing the intensity of the pressure. The problem is solved by flushing.

Features of repair of the geyser "Vector"

The design and principle of operation of Vector devices is not much different from other models. If the cold water pressure is low, it is recommended to install a booster pump, which will ensure uninterrupted hot water supply. If the Vector gas water heater does not ignite, you should check the condition of the filter and the heat exchanger for the presence of scale.

Dear readers of the online magazine site! Leave it in the comments useful tips on repair and maintenance of geysers, and also share with other visitors your experience in setting up instantaneous water heaters.

A geyser can be classified as a structurally complex water heating device, which, if the operating rules are strictly followed, can last for decades without breakdown. But as you know, nothing is eternal, and even such reliable device, may break. First of all, this is due to the discrepancy in the quality of water and gas supplied by utilities to the house.

If you follow safety regulations, then any malfunction of gas equipment must be repaired by the appropriate services or certified specialists. But I would like to note that there are some typical breakdowns geyser, which the homeowner can fix with his own hands, without waiting for the technician to arrive.

Design features of the geyser

Before learning how to properly diagnose various malfunctions geyser for further elimination with your own hands, It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the design of such a water heating device. Naturally, it is impossible to become familiar with the design of all models of gas units for heating water, but you need to know the general principles of the dispenser design.

Centralized supply of hot water to residential premises appeared not so long ago. At the same time, the problem of heating water in private houses and apartment buildings was solved by different methods, the most common of which was storage heater, running on solid fuel.

Heating of water in such boilers had to occur in advance, since in order to it took from 60 to 90 minutes to take a bath or shower. Naturally, this made the use of such devices very inconvenient and impractical. Therefore, to solve the problem of quickly heating water, a gas water heater was developed.

The principle of operation of geysers is to heat the water coming from the water supply due to the combustion of gas. Wherein to speed up as much as possible this process The water heating device is equipped with a heat exchanger, distributing the water flow through thin tubes located directly above the burner. Thanks to this, it was possible to quickly warm up the water directly during its use.

This design of a geyser is the basis of most such water heating devices. All other design additions serve to ignite the gas and set temperature parameters, as well as ensure the protection and safety of the device. Moreover, if we consider the ignition of the column, then it differs in its operating principle.

• Ignition using an igniter involves constantly maintaining a small source of open fire. In turn, the igniter itself is ignited either with a match or with a piezoelectric element built into the column.
• Piezo ignition system without using an igniter.
• Electronic ignition unit geyser, powered by alternating current.

If we talk about the security system, it is in most cases mechanical. Even the most modern geyser, stuffed with various electronic components, has the simplest protection, mechanically connected to the membrane and the water intake device, as well as gas valve. The gas valve opens only when there is sufficient water pressure on the membrane. Simply put, there is no water, the gas does not burn - the water is turned on, the burner lights up.

Gas water heater won't ignite

One of the most common problems with a geyser not igniting is a lack of draft due to clogged ventilation wells. It is possible that there is a foreign object in the chimney or that it has become clogged with soot during long-term operation. In this case, the protection system is activated and, as a result, the gas supply is cut off.

To repair the problem yourself, you need to check the draft in the exhaust gas pipe. For this a lit match is brought to the exhaust well and if the chimney is working properly, the flame is diverted to the side. If the flame does not start, you need to check the well and remove dirt or foreign objects and everything will work without contacting specialists.

Another problem in which there is no ignition of the column is the banal lack of power, naturally, if we are talking about units with automatic system battery-powered ignition devices, such as Electrolux products. At the same time, despite all the assurances from manufacturers that the batteries should last for a year, they should be replaced much more often. To repair you need to do the following:

• check the operation of the button, power on gas appliance;
• banal replacement of the power source (battery).

Also, problems with ignition in a gas water heater may be due to the lack of sufficient water pressure. Checking the water pressure yourself is also not a problem. You just need to open the tap and visually assess the water pressure. And if a problem is discovered, the pipeline needs to be repaired.

If it is found that cold water is supplied under high pressure, then the problem should be looked for in the water unit gas water heater. Common reasons for decreased hot water pressure are clogged filters or a deformed membrane. To fix the problem, you need to do the following:

• first you need to inquire about the lack of cold water pressure from utility services;
• check and, if necessary, wash or replace the filters yourself;
• clean the gas appliance from scale, but it is better to entrust such preventive measures to specialists;
• replace the deformed membrane.

You can often encounter a problem when a gas water heater catches fire and immediately goes out. This often occurs due to improper adjustment of the water supply. To repair a breakdown, the water supply is reduced, which you can do yourself.

When the device is turned on, a characteristic pop is heard

A micro-explosion or pop that appears when the gas water heater is turned on may appear due to a lack of draft in the ventilation system. If this device is equipped with an electric ignition, the cause may be a dead battery. The problem may also be caused by clogged nozzles or other structural elements of the device or due to excessive gas flow. In this case, to fix the problem you need to perform the following manipulations:

• cleaning the chimney yourself or calling a stove technician;
• replacing batteries;
• all other breakdowns must be corrected by a specialist called from the gas service.

It is important to remember that when the gas water heater is turned on, there should be no foreign odors, especially gas. If you detect a smell, you must immediately turn off the gas supply valve, open the doors and windows in the apartment and call the gas service. But under no circumstances should you try to fix the problem yourself.

No gas supply

When you turn on the column, you can always hear the characteristic sound of gas igniting, which indicates the operation of the water heater. If you don’t hear anything when you turn on the device, then perhaps the gas is not entering the column. To solve the problem, you need to check whether there is gas at all. To do this, you can light the gas stove burner or call utility services for the possibility of carrying out planned repairs. If there is gas in the house, but the heater does not light, you need to seek help from specialists.

Gas water heater leaking

If an old gas water heater is used in the house, it can often leak. In this case, to repair the water heater, it is advisable to replace the entire radiator. However the cost of such a spare part can reach 30% of the price of the speaker. Therefore, it is advisable to solder the damaged area yourself.

Most often, holes are found on the tube located on the outside of the heat exchanger. If the location of the damage is identified, the first step is to take certain measures.

1. Water is draining from the radiator by opening the tap in the sink or bathtub and unscrewing the union nut on the pipe of the column supplying cold water.
2. Due to the fact that in most cases the column is installed above the taps in the house, then water from the water heater radiator will drain by gravity.
3. To eliminate remaining liquid use a compressor or household vacuum cleaner.

Typically, the soldering procedure itself should not cause problems. The first step is to clean the area where the damage is found using sandpaper and treat it with a solvent. Tinning is done with any available solder using a powerful soldering iron. Rosin is used as a flux.

After covering the damaged area with a thin layer of solder, it is increased to 2 mm in thickness. Then it executes visual inspection pipe along the entire length. If green formations are detected, you can be sure that a new hole will soon appear in this place, so this section of the tube is also soldered.

The gas heater is on, but the water does not heat up

Going out slightly warm water from the column may be preceded by several reasons. First of all, the device may have insufficient power. To make sure of this, you must carefully study the documentation for the device.

In addition, insufficient heating of water can occur due to banal clogging of the unit, which will be indicated by color of gas combustion and the appearance of soot under the water heater. Also, the water temperature may not warm up to the specified parameters due to low gas pressure. To repair the problem you need to do the following:

• adjust the hot water tap;
• clean the unit yourself;
• contact a specialist.

Typical geyser breakdowns, which occur most often and can be fixed with your own hands, were discussed above. But if the homeowner does not have confidence in his abilities, then it is better to entrust everything to specialists.

When performing adjustment or repair work on a gas water heater with your own hands, you need to pay due attention to this process, otherwise it can lead to irreversible consequences. Therefore, before you disassemble a gas water heater yourself, you need to be sure that the gas pipeline or other important components will not be damaged, which could lead to a gas explosion.

Gas water heaters with instantaneous water heaters, regardless of the manufacturer and model, are no different from each other in terms of operation. The difference is only in appearance, design and set additional options, for example, automatic ignition of the burner, error in maintaining the set temperature of the heated water, the presence of a digital display for setting and indicating the water temperature.

The gas water heater works as follows. Through a heat exchanger, which is copper tube with ribs, water flows. The gas burns, which heats the heat exchanger and as a result the water heats up. Depending on the set temperature heating water and its pressure in the water supply system, the gas unit adjustment system associated with the water unit ensures safe operation. If there is no water pressure or draft, the protection system automatically shuts off the gas supply.

In October 2006 I bought a gas NEVA column LUX-5013 (pictured above) produced by OJSC Gazapparat, St. Petersburg. I didn’t want to buy an imported manufacturer; sooner or later everything breaks down, and problems with spare parts become an insurmountable obstacle.

The previously installed model Neva-3208 served for 6 years (continues to work in another place now). The only drawback of this model is that it was necessary to change the rubber membrane in the water unit every year. Over time, it became deformed, because of this, the amount of gas supplied to the burner decreased and the water began to not warm up enough. Over time, the gas supply stopped completely.

I accidentally saw a silicone membrane in a gas equipment store. I replaced the rubber membrane in the water unit, after which there were no problems with the gas water heater.

I was persuaded to choose NEVA LUX-5013 by its high reliability (as I thought), compatibility of supply pipes, water-gas regulator from Mertik Maxitrol (Germany), availability of all types of protection, casing made of of stainless steel.

For three years (warranty period), the geyser worked perfectly, but as soon as the warranty expired, water began to drip from it. The first thing I thought was that one of the rubber gaskets had worn out, I would replace it and everything would be fine. But everything turned out to be much more complicated than I expected, and the repair turned out to be difficult. Opening the gas water heater revealed the presence of a fistula in the heat exchanger, from which a thin stream of water was gushing.

Repair of heat exchangers and boilers gas heaters a separate page of the site is devoted to flow-through type Repair of the heat exchanger of a geyser by soldering with your own hands.

How to disassemble and reassemble the NEVA LUX geyser

Before starting repairs, be sure to turn off the gas and water supply taps.

To remove the casing of the gas water heater, you first need to unscrew the two screws located in the right and left corners of the lower part of the rear wall using a Phillips screwdriver from below, from the side of the pipe inlet.

The left knob for piezoelectric ignition of the igniter and rough adjustment of the gas supply cannot be removed. Right handle fine adjustment The gas supply is held only by the casing with two clamps. You don't have to take it off either. But I usually remove it before removing the casing. In addition, so that the handle rotates easily when adjusting the temperature, I filed it along with the clamps in a circle where the handle touches the casing. Now it no longer clings to the casing and rotates easily.

Next, you should pull the casing towards you until the handles are recessed and, when the casing does not touch them, move it up. The upper slots of the casing will come out of the hooks located on the base of the gas column, and it will easily separate.

The geyser casing is installed in place in the reverse order. First, put it on the upper hooks with the slots, for which you will have to stand on a raised platform, then get the hole onto the adjustment handle and at the same time make sure that the holes located above the holes for fastening with self-tapping screws hit the guides. Screw the two screws into place.

Shown in the photo appearance geyser NEVA LUX-5013 without casing with a new heat exchanger.

Troubleshooting geyser

The gas in the igniter goes out

This malfunction is typical only for geysers with an automatic protection system. The gas in the igniter should always burn, regardless of the position of the handles or valves of taps and water supply mixers. The simplest system automatic protection The gas water heater consists of only three elements: an electromagnetic valve, a thermocouple and a thermal fuse. The geyser may go out during operation if the protection elements are triggered or the elements themselves malfunction.

Electrical circuit for protecting the NEVA LUX geyser

Evidence of failure of the automation elements is the extinguishing of gas in the igniter after the gas control knob is no longer held. To repair an automatic protection system, you need to understand how its components work.

A thermocouple is two wires welded together. different metals(I assume these are chromel and alumel), working on the Seebeck effect and generating an EMF of about 30 mV when heated. Serves to power the solenoid valve. It fails only after many years of operation. The bottleneck is the loose center conductor coming out of the housing. Although it is insulated, the insulation can wear out over time, and the conductor can short-circuit to the body, and the gas water heater will go out.

If the contact at the welding site of the thermocouple is broken, then it is unacceptable to restore it by soldering, since the junction point in the thermocouple is a current generator, and not a simple eclectic connection of wires. The thermocouple should be replaced with a working one or repaired.

The solenoid valve is a coil copper wire, inside which is placed metal cylinder(solenoid), mechanically connected to the valve for shutting off the gas supply to the gas column burner. When the thermocouple is heated, it produces electricity, which, flowing through the coil, creates a constant magnetic field that draws the solenoid into the coil.

Since the solenoid is mechanically connected to the valve, the valve moves and gas enters the burner. If the gas in the wick does not burn, the thermocouple cools down and does not produce current, the spring-loaded solenoid returns to its original state and the gas supply to the burner stops. So in a simple way provided safe operation geyser.

The thermal fuse is a bimetallic plate, which, when the temperature reaches 90˚C at the installation site of the thermal fuse, bends so much that it breaks the power supply circuit of the solenoid through the rod. In addition, the thermal fuse itself is connected to the circuit mechanically, using terminals. Due to the complexity of the design and operating conditions, it sometimes fails. I had to replace it once because the gas water heater was going out randomly.

Checking the thermal fuse

You need to check the thermal fuse if the column goes out, despite good draft in the gas ventilation and sufficient air flow. If in the room where the gas water heater is installed, the plastic windows are tightly closed, and in addition the hood above the gas stove is turned on, then even with good draft there will be no air flow. The geyser will begin to overheat, the heating will trip the fuse and open the voltage supply circuit to solenoid valve. After cooling, the fuse will close the circuit again.

To check the thermal fuse of the geyser (installed in its upper part and accessible without removing the casing), you need to remove the terminals from it (in the photo Pink colour) and short-circuit them with each other metal object, for example a paperclip.

If the geyser starts to work normally without overheating, then the cause of the malfunction has been found. Temporarily, until you purchase a new thermal fuse for replacement, you can leave a paperclip, but you just need to make sure that it does not touch the metal parts of the gas water heater, and do not leave the working water heater unattended. The thermal fuse is attached to the heat-resistant plastic adapter with two screws. The adapter on the geyser body is secured with a latch.

Checking the solenoid valve of the geyser

If the paper clip does not help, then you need to check the functionality of the solenoid valve. It has a resistance of about 0.2 Ohm and in operating mode consumes a current of about 100 mA. You can check it by applying a voltage of 20-30 mV to the winding at a current of 100 mA. This mode can be easily created using any AA battery or a battery and a 10 ohm resistor. The battery must be fresh.

The connection is made as follows. The negative terminal of the battery is connected to the body of the column (for the valve and thermocouple, one terminal is connected to the housing, in the diagram there is a blue wire), and the positive terminal through a 10 Ohm resistor to the terminal of the thermal fuse (the terminals from the thermal fuse must first be removed), the wire from which does not go to thermocouple (left red wire in the diagram). Light the wick and immediately remove your hand from the gas control knob. The wick should continue to burn. If you disconnect the battery, the flame should go out immediately. If everything is so, the solenoid valve is working. Therefore, the thermocouple is faulty. If external inspection If you cannot find bad contacts or a short circuit in the wires, then the thermocouple will have to be replaced. It is sold complete with wires and terminals.

The geyser goes out during operation

No traction

One of the most common cases with the arrival of autumn is a tightly closed airtight plastic window in the room where the gas water heater is installed. There is no air flow - the column overheats and the bimetallic relay for thermal protection of the column from overheating (self-resetting thermal fuse) is triggered. If after 10-15 minutes the column lights up normally and does not go out again when the window is slightly open, then the reason is precisely the column overheating. If immediately after the gas goes out you can light the wick, and it will continue to burn after you stop holding the gas control knob, then the draft is good.

The draft may also be insufficient due to soot being clogged or getting into the ventilation duct. foreign objects, for example, the bricks from which the channel is made. To check the draft, you need to remove the gas exhaust pipe coming from the gas water heater from the channel, and with the window open, close the channel with a sheet of paper. If the paper holds, it means there is enough traction. You can bring a lit lighter and if the flame deviates to a horizontal position or even goes out, then there is sufficient draft in the channel. Otherwise, the canal needs to be cleaned.

Water unit is faulty

Also, the burners in the column, both with and without automation, may go out due to insufficient water pressure in the water supply or a malfunction of the water unit.

If the pressure of cold water has not changed, but the pressure of water coming from the water column has become weak, it means that it is clogged. strainer at the inlet of the water unit. This often happens after the water is turned off and supplied again. To clean, simply unscrew one union nut on the water supply side, remove and clean the mesh and pressure difference calibration hole.

If a water unit is installed in the gas water heater as in the photo, and the water pressure has not visually changed, then it is necessary to check the condition of the rubber membrane in it. To do this, you need to unscrew the two union nuts from the water unit, then unscrew the three screws that hold the water unit in the gas unit by the cone. Disassemble the water assembly by unscrewing the eight screws. When you disconnect the halves of the assembly from each other, you will see a rubber membrane.

If the rubber band is not flat, but deformed, with bends, then it is the problem and needs to be replaced. At the same time, you should clean the filter mesh and the cavities of the water unit from dirt. I advise you to install a silicone membrane, it will last for many years. When assembling the water assembly, first tighten the screws until they stop, and then tighten them diagonally to ensure even clamping of the rubber.

In the old days, when I lived in an apartment on the top floor, where the water pressure was a sluggish trickle of water from the tap, I had to work magic with the water regulator to wash myself. Using a round file, I increased the diameter of the calibration hole to 2 mm, removed the filter mesh and annealed the conical spring of the gas unit. If I missed the size of the hole, I inserted a copper wire into it to make it smaller. Of course, this is a gross violation and the working column had to be constantly monitored, but there was simply no other way out. But there was always hot water.

How to eliminate leaks in gas water heater connections

The left pipe serves to supply water to the gas water heater; a tap is always installed on it to shut off the water supply to the water heater. This pipe is connected by a pipe to the water-gas regulator. From the regulator, water is supplied to the heat exchanger on the right side. By middle pipe The geyser transmits hot water to the water supply system, and it is connected through a pipe directly to the heat exchanger on the left side. The right pipe in the gas water heater serves to supply gas and is connected through a copper tube to the water-gas regulator. A gas shut-off valve must also be installed on it.

Water connections in the gas water heater are made using union nuts (American) sealed with rubber or plastic gaskets. Over time, due to temperature changes, the gaskets lose their elasticity, become hard, crack, and water leaks occur. To replace the gasket, use a 24 key to unscrew the union nut, remove the worn one and install a new one. It happens that one gasket is not enough, the union nut is tightened all the way, but water still oozes out. Then you need to additionally install another gasket. Currently, silicone gaskets have appeared. They are more expensive, but last longer and are more reliable.

How to replace a copper water supply pipe to a heat exchanger

When connecting the copper pipe through which water is supplied from the water supply to the heat exchanger, I encountered a water leak from under the union nut. Repeatedly replacing the gasket only made the water leak worse.

Carefully examining the pipe at the point where the flange contacts the gasket and cleaning the surface sandpaper, a crack was discovered, which increased upon reattachment. Repair by soldering in this case cannot be used, since when tightening the union nut a lot of force is applied, and the solder is soft, and the crack will appear again.

There was no such pipe in the gas equipment store; it turned out that this item was in short supply. The seller offered to replace the cracked pipe with a corrugated stainless steel hose designed for gas, claiming that it was no less reliable. Since there was no choice, I had to take his advice. These hoses are available in different lengths and can be selected for any replacement situation.

The gas tube, adjusted to its length, was installed without difficulty. Thanks to the corrugation, it bent well. When checking the gas water heater, it turned out that the water, passing through the new tube, emitted a loud unpleasant sound. I had to tie the tube to the base of the speaker with wire (as in the photo in the middle), and the unpleasant sound disappeared.

A year later, water started dripping from the gas water heater. It turned out that the one recommended by the seller stainless tube for gas, it rusted at the junction of the tube and the flange, and a fistula formed in it. Once again the task of finding a suitable replacement tube arose.

The idea arose to try using it instead of a copper pipe flexible liner for water. By technical specifications she was quite suitable. It could withstand operating pressure up to 10 atmospheres and temperatures up to 90°C. True, the internal diameter was smaller and amounted to 9 mm, but there was no other replacement option.

A flexible water line 40 cm long perfectly took the place of the copper pipe. The smaller internal diameter did not noticeably affect the water pressure from the tap. And it shouldn’t have, because water is supplied to the mixer using a flexible hose with an internal diameter of 9 mm.

How to remove and clean the igniter of a NEVA LUX gas water heater

Sometimes it becomes necessary to remove the igniter assembly, for example, to clean dirt. Over time, the igniter nozzle in the gas column becomes clogged with soot, and the wick flame becomes insufficient to instantly ignite the gas coming out of the burners when the water is turned on. Gas accumulates, and when a larger volume of gas ignites than expected, an explosion occurs, accompanied by a loud bang. This is dangerous and the pilot burner must be cleaned as a matter of urgency.

It happens that the pilot burner does not burn with a pure blue flame, but half yellow. Yellowness appears when incomplete combustion gas due to lack of oxygen in the mixture. This releases soot, which is deposited on the heat exchanger. It is necessary to clean the air supply holes in the burner from dirt.

The photo above is a view of the igniter from below. The igniter assembly consists of three parts mounted on one strip - an igniter, a thermocouple and an ignition electrode. A thermocouple is installed on the left side. On the right side of the igniter there is an electrode for piezoelectric ignition of gas.

When turning and pressing the left knob counterclockwise, the valve for forced gas supply to the igniter opens and fires trigger squeezing the piezoelectric element, which in turn generates a high voltage, about 15,000 volts. A spark jumps from the electrode to the igniter, and the gas coming out of the igniter ignites.

This photo shows the top view of the igniter with the casing and heat exchanger removed. To remove the igniter for cleaning, you need to unscrew the nut securing the gas supply tube (pictured in the center), then unscrew the outer two screws. Pull the bar towards you and lift it up. The jet is clamped in the igniter by the gas supply tube and falls out when it is released. Make sure you don't lose it. All that remains is to clean the nozzle with a thin wire and the air supply holes.

Some models of geysers are equipped with an automatic electric gas ignition system. As soon as the hot water tap opens, the gas in the burner is automatically ignited. But such models have significant shortcomings: work unstably at weak pressure water in the water supply and require periodic replacement of electric batteries.

If the batteries are not replaced in a timely manner, it will be impossible to light the gas water heater. The last drawback can be eliminated by connecting an adapter instead of batteries that converts the household power supply voltage into a constant voltage of the required value, equal to the number of batteries multiplied by 1.5 V. For example, when replacing two batteries, you will need an adapter with an output voltage of 3 V.

Cleaning the heat exchanger, descaling

One of the common malfunctions of geysers is insufficient water heating. As a rule, the reason for this is the formation of a layer of scale inside the heat exchanger tube, which prevents the water from warming up to the set temperature and reduces the water pressure at the outlet, which ultimately leads to increased gas consumption by the geyser. Scale is a poor conductor of heat and, covering the heat exchanger tube from the inside, forms a kind of thermal insulation. The gas is open to full speed, but the water does not warm up.

Scale is formed in case of greater hardness tap water. You can easily find out what kind of water you have in your tap water by looking into the electric kettle. If the bottom of the electric kettle is covered with a white coating, it means that the water in the water supply is hard, and the heat exchanger is also covered with scale from the inside. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically remove scale from the heat exchanger.

There are special devices on sale for removing scale and rust in hot water systems, for example, Cillit KalkEx Mobile and flushing fluids. But they are very expensive and home use not available. The operating principle of the purifiers is simple. There is a container in which a pump is mounted, as in washing machine for pumping water out of the tank. Two tubes from the descaling device are connected to the tubes of the geyser heat exchanger. The flushing agent is heated and pumped through the heat exchanger tube, even without removing it. The scale dissolves in the reagent and the heat exchanger tubes are removed with it.

To clean the heat exchanger from scale without using automation equipment, you need to remove it and blow out the tube so that no water remains in it. Anti-scale agent, ordinary vinegar or citric acid can serve as a cleaning reagent (100 grams of citric acid powder is dissolved in 500 ml of hot water). The heat exchanger is placed in a container with water. It is enough that only a third of it is immersed in water. Using a funnel or thin tube, completely fill the heat exchanger tube with the reagent. You need to pour it into the heat exchanger tube from the end that leads to the bottom turn so that the reagent displaces all the air.

Place the container on gas stove and bring the water to a boil, boil for ten minutes, turn off the gas and let the water cool. Next, the heat exchanger is installed in the gas water heater and connected only to the water supply pipe. A hose is put on the outlet pipe of the heat exchanger, and its second end is lowered into the sewer or any container. The water supply tap to the column opens; the water will displace the reagent with the scale dissolved in it. If there is no large container for boiling, then you can simply pour the heated reagent into the heat exchanger and let it sit for several hours. If there is a thick layer of scale, the cleaning operation may need to be repeated several times to completely remove it.

The gas makes a loud noise when burning in the wick.

After installing the Neva-3208 gas water heater, an unpleasant phenomenon appeared that did not affect the quality of the water heater. When the gas burned in the wick in standby mode, it produced a rather loud sound, which was unpleasant to the ear and created discomfort. After some thought and experimentation, I managed to get rid of the noise in a simple way. He suggested that a stream of gas in the burner under pressure, escaping from the nozzle and hitting the wall at the bend of the burner, creates conditions for noisy combustion.

To test this assumption, I inserted a strip of tin approximately 3 cm long and 5 mm wide into the burner, the main thing being that it fit inside the burner. The noise disappeared. If your gas water heater is also noisy, then you can take any metal strip, for example, cut it out of tin from a tin can, make a hole in it at the edge, put the strip on a straightened paperclip bent at the end and put it into the burner. The result will be something like a fishing lure. The paperclip is needed so that you can remove the strip of metal back from the burner if the noise does not disappear, although if it burns normally, you don’t have to remove it. This experiment can be carried out without even removing the casing from the gas water heater.

The water coming out of the tap is very hot

In the warm season, when the water in the water supply is warm and its pressure is low, a problem arises, seemingly associated with a malfunction of the gas water heater. When you set the gas supply knob to the minimum water heating position, the water from the column still comes out very hot. This is not a malfunction, just this model The geyser is not designed for this mode of operation. The operating instructions usually indicate the minimum water pressure at which the gas water heater ensures normal operation.

Solving the problem is very simple: just limit the gas supply by slightly turning off the gas supply valve installed on gas pipe before entering the gas water heater.

Instructions for installation and operation of geysers

Before you take on self-installation or repairing a geyser, I strongly recommend that you read the installation and operating instructions.

Operating instructions for geysers.

Let’s say right away that repairing a geyser, like any other gas equipment, is a matter exclusively for professionals. But, although repairing speakers with your own hands is not allowed, knowledge is never superfluous. The ability to determine on your own what exactly is broken, what this breakdown threatens, and what the repair could cost will not hurt anyone. What kind of breakdowns of geysers happen, and what “symptoms” are they accompanied by?

How does a gas water heater work?

To begin with, before getting acquainted with the basics of fault diagnosis, it is useful to find out how the gas water heater is designed; repairs will largely depend on the device. We will not delve into the intricacies of the design of many speaker models; we will limit ourselves to just getting acquainted with the general principles.

Centralized hot water supply appeared relatively recently by historical standards. The issue of heating water at home was solved in various ways, but the most common one was a storage solid fuel heater - the so-called titanium. Titanium was heated with coal, less often with wood or fuel oil. The water in the boiler had to be heated in advance. So it took at least an hour to take a bath. Of course, using such a device was very inconvenient. The problem of quickly heating water was solved in geysers.

The operation of the column is accompanied by popping noises

Possible reasons are as follows:

• The gas pressure is too strong, the burner ignites too actively, causing the flame to fail.
• The gas pressure is too weak, air gets inside the burner, which is accompanied by a micro-explosion.

The burner needs cleaning and adjustment. In principle, nothing complicated, but you don’t need to take on this work yourself; repairs to the geyser should be carried out by a specialist.

Low water temperature

Insufficient water heating may be due to low power of the column. Do not open the hot tap in the bathtub, sink and kitchen at the same time, or buy a more powerful unit.

Another possible cause could be a clogged burner, as indicated by yellow flame. Call a gas technician, a specialist will solve this problem in an hour.

When you turn on the speaker you smell gas

This is already serious and threatens with the most dire consequences. Immediately turn off the column, turn off the gas supply valve, ensure constant ventilation in the room, call the emergency service (104) and wait for the brigade to arrive.

In conclusion, once again I would like to remind you about safety. Do not attempt to disassemble, clean or repair gas equipment on one's own. This work is for qualified professionals only.