Garden gerbera (lat. Gerbera) is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae (Asteraceae) family. The plant is very popular in home and garden floriculture.

The bushes are compact, the leaf plates are neatly collected into a rosette. The leaves are pinnately dissected with pointed tips, the length is about 35 cm, the surface is leathery, iridescent. In some leaves, the base of the leaflets and petioles may be heavily pubescent.

The flowering stem extends 30-60 cm, and large basket-shaped inflorescences bloom at the top. The flowers themselves are similar to daisies, reach 12-16 cm in diameter, and can be single, semi-double or double.

The modest gerbera fascinates with its hypnotic beauty, and planting and caring for the plant is not difficult.

Originally from hot Africa and Madagascar, some species can be found in the tropics of Asia. By the way, other beautiful daisies were also brought from Africa - garden flowers similar to gerberas - .

When does gerbera bloom?

Gerbera flowers bloom from early spring and end their beauty parade with the onset of severe autumn cold.

Gerbera for cutting: how to do it right

Gerbera flowers for a long time retain freshness after cutting. But they should be cut correctly, or rather, the flowering stem should be carefully twisted out of the socket. If you cut or leave part of the peduncle on the bush, this threatens complete rotting of the plant left so.

Growing garden gerbera from seeds for seedlings

When to plant

To get strong flowering bushes this season, it is necessary to grow gerbera seedlings in the fall. Gerberas should be sown as seedlings in October-November, so that gerberas planted in open ground will bloom in July-August.

If you sow gerberas in January-March, you will not see flowering this season. Don’t be upset: plant ready-made seedlings in the garden, and in the fall transfer them to pots and keep them until next spring (more on this below).

How to plant

• We take seedling cassettes, fill them with loose nutritious soil mixture (there are special compounds for growing seedlings), place the seeds one at a time in a cell, helping yourself with a toothpick, deepening no more than 3 mm.
• Spray with a fine spray.
• The optimal air temperature for seed germination is at least 18 °C; to maintain the required level of humidity and temperature, cover the crops with glass or film on top.

• The germination process takes about 2 weeks; in the future, grow without film cover.
• Maintain diffused bright lighting for at least 12 hours (be sure to provide additional illumination with phytolamps), do not forget to ventilate, and spray the crops if necessary.
• We transfer the grown plants into larger pots.
• When real warmth sets in with night temperatures above 12°C, transplant the gerbera into open ground.

Please note that flowering will occur in 10-11 months, so do not be surprised that flower stalks do not appear in the first year if you are late in sowing the seedlings. Also, during seed propagation, varietal characteristics may be lost if cross-pollination occurs.

Selecting a site and planting garden gerberas

Light and soil

For a heat-loving gerbera, be sure to choose an open one. sunny plot without drafts, flooding and moisture stagnation are contraindicated, if located close groundwater you will need to make the bed elevated.

Regarding the soil: it should be loose and nutritious, good drainage is important.

Transplanting

We transplant into open ground when the soil warms up enough and real warmth is established. Dig up the area, make planting holes according to the size of the root system and roll over the bushes along with the earthen ball; the root collar should be 1.5-2 cm above the soil surface. Keep a distance of about 20 cm between individual plants.

Gerbera is susceptible to fungal diseases, so before planting it is advisable to treat the soil with special preparations.

How to care for garden gerbera

Cute appearance and bright long flowering– these are not the only advantages of the plant; gerbera grows and develops quickly and is notable for its ease of care.

How to water

During the period of active growth, regular and abundant watering is necessary; during the dormant period (when transplanting into a pot), water moderately. When watering, maintain a balance; drying out the soil negatively affects the condition of the plant, as does waterlogging. Use water at room temperature, add it carefully, trying not to get on the leaves, leaf rosette Under no circumstances should it be soaked.

Loosening and weeding

Pull out weeds and periodically loosen the soil.

To maintain growth and flowering, apply complex mineral fertilizers in liquid form every two weeks.

Garden gerbera in autumn

IN natural environment gerbera grows in mild, warm climates with long, hot summers. In central Russia it is grown seasonally, i.e. Planted in open ground during the warm season, it can be grown as an annual. In regions with warm winters (air temperature not lower than +10°C), the plant is left to overwinter in open ground covered with straw or dry leaves.

Garden gerbera: how to preserve in winter

If you want to save the plant for the winter, dig up a bush in the fall and plant it in a spacious container (its size is commensurate with the dimensions of the plant). At the bottom, lay a drainage layer consisting of expanded clay, for example, ordinary small pebbles and clay shards will also be used. The following soil mixture is perfect for winter maintenance: two parts leaf soil and peat and one part sand. When transplanting, place the root collar a few centimeters above the soil surface.

Winter care for gerberas is as follows:

• Keep the container with gerbera in a cool (7-8 °C) and well-ventilated area.
• There is no need to feed, occasionally spray the soil surface, provide diffused lighting.

Diseases and pests

Unfortunately, the bright garden gerbera is quite often exposed to diseases and pests, but the root cause lies in the lack of proper care. The crop is affected by a fungal infection, leading to rotting of the root system. This is caused by prolonged waterlogging of the soil; perhaps the soil was already contaminated. Water moderately, provide drainage, and for preventative purposes, treat the soil with an appropriate preparation before planting.

High humidity causes powdery mildew. Treat the plant with a fungicidal preparation, but keep in mind that if the solution gets on the leaves, unsightly spots will remain.

If the air humidity is high and the bushes are poorly ventilated - ideal conditions for the development of powdery mildew. Treatment with a preparation containing sulfur will be required.

Dangerous pests of gerbera are spider mites, aphids, and thrips. The plant will have a depressed appearance, the leaves will begin to turn yellow, and whitish cobwebs (traces of vital activity) can be found on their surface. spider mite), various punctures and dark spots (these are the “tricks” of sap-sucking insects), aphids can be seen with the naked eye. First, treat the bushes with a soap solution; in extreme cases, treat them with an insecticidal preparation (anabasine sulfate, nicotine sulfate, and others are effective against aphids).

How to propagate garden gerbera

Vegetative propagation of gerbera is the most common method, which involves dividing the bush. Wait until the bushes reach the age of 2-3 years; the division procedure should be carried out in April-May.

• We carefully divide the bush into several parts, each of which should contain a part of the rhizome with growth buds and 2-3 leaves; the roots should be trimmed to a length of 10 cm.
• We plant them in holes at a distance of 25-30 cm and grow them all summer in open ground.

Of course, growing gerbera under conditions middle zone Russia involves some trouble, but in return we get neat bushes that bloom all season long. These large, colorful flowers, reminiscent of daisies, will decorate not only the garden, but also the windowsill.

Gerbera in landscape design

Compact gerbera bushes are used for framing garden paths, in border plantings, you can use a monochromatic color scheme or play with shades.

When grown in containers or garden pots, gerberas become mobile (portable decoration): place them on the balcony, veranda, or in any corner of the garden.

Gerbera is so good that she doesn't need neighbors. Pairs perfectly with calendula.

If desired, combine with decorative foliage plants (for example, heuchera, heucherella, cereals and conifers.

Perennial garden gerberas: varieties with photos and names

The species was discovered by Carl Linnaeus, and the varietal diversity was expanded by the Dutch botanist-breeder Reman.

There are over 100 varieties to fill your garden with with the brightest colors according to your taste. The most popular red shades are the varieties Robin Hood, Ruby Amsterdam, Saskia and others. Gerberas of yellow, white, cream, pink shades are in great demand, and lilac ones are no less charming.

Large-flowered varieties with narrow petals:

• Migar – pleasant pink tint inflorescences;
• Vega - inflorescences of a sunny orange hue;
• Algol is a rich cherry shade of inflorescences.

Gerbera variety mixture Gerbera ‘Sweet Collection’ photo

Large flowers of medium petal type:

Mars – flowers of a rich red hue;

Gerbera variety Gerbera ‘Sweet Dreams’ flower photo

Large flowers with wide petals:

Vera, Peter, Almak, Romeo, Saturn, Delios.

Garden gerbera variety Sweet Surprise photo

Small-flowered with narrow petals:

• Aldebaran - deep pink inflorescences;
• Alcor - inflorescences of a deep cherry shade.

Double and semi-double flowers with narrow petals:

Kalinka, Viola, Sonya; of the same type, but with wide petals: variety Iskra - dark, deep red color of flowers.

Separately, I would like to note the Wright variety, which is perfectly suitable for landscape design and bouquet arrangements.

The history of the gerbera has spanned a century and a half, from a wild African plant to one of the most purchased and beloved flowers in the world. Nowadays, you can buy gerberas for a bouquet both in pots and cut ones at any flower shop. The price of a gerbera depends on its variety. Flowers with different shades petals, new and rare varieties are the most expensive. Gerberas have a basal rosette, from which light green, deeply divided leaves grow on petioles. Peduncles are usually slightly pubescent. The flowers are collected in baskets-inflorescences, which have a yellow center. A sunny sunflower or a modest daisy, that’s what the handsome gerberas resemble.

Since this is a tropical flower, it does not tolerate frost and no shelter can protect the gerbera in the garden from the winter cold, therefore, in our climatic conditions, gerbera is used as a perennial herbaceous plant It is planted in greenhouses and as an annual plant in open ground. Digging up gerberas along with a lump of earth in the fall and sending it to the basement for the winter is the only way to preserve garden gerberas. For many years now room conditions Gerbera flowers are grown as flowering potted plants.

Gerbera care

Growing a home gerbera is not too difficult a task. This plant is quite unpretentious, but growing gerbera in pots still has its secrets. Moving a gerbera from a greenhouse to your apartment results in serious stress, so you should not aggravate it by transplanting it into new pot. You can replant the plant after purchase no earlier than two weeks; the gerbera needs time to adapt. If the flower lives near the wat, then it is transplanted in the spring. The gerbera is replanted together with a clod of earth so as not to damage the roots. The pot should have a wide top and low. Don’t forget to put drainage at the bottom of the pot.

The soil mixture for gerberas should be slightly acidic, consisting of sand and peat in equal parts, but leaf soil needs twice as much as peat and sand. After transplanting a gerbera plant, care comes down to timely and abundant watering. The earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out, but it should not be flooded either. Water only to the edge of the pot and excess water the pan must be drained. Water for irrigation is taken to be settled, soft and at a temperature not lower than +20 degrees. Watering gerberas with cold water is very dangerous, especially if the room is warm. It is useful to spray only the leaves, not the gerbera flowers. Gerbera grows well in bright light; direct sunlight in the mornings and evenings is not even harmful to it. In the summer it is not possible, but even needs to be taken out onto the balcony. Gerberas are not afraid of drafts and love Fresh air. IN winter period gerberas suffer from too dry and warm air our apartments.

And not only in winter. The best temperature for flowering and growth of potted gerbera is +16-21 degrees, and in winter time not lower than +12 degrees. Thus, for gerberas, indoor care includes keeping them on light windowsills, spraying, sufficient watering and ventilation of the room. If you create everything for a gerbera the necessary conditions, then the gerbera in the pot is capable of flowering in winter, but if this is not done, then the gerbera enters a dormant state. The plant gathers strength and grows leaves in order to bloom next year. Often, re-blooming can occur in August, when daylight hours begin to wane, and this very fact serves as a signal for gerbera to bloom.

Diseases and pests of gerbera

Gerbera flowers are not too capricious, but, like many other indoor plants, care for gerbera flowers plays an important role in pest damage and disease prevention. So, for example, a violation of air humidification and watering will lead to infection of the plant with gray and white rot, if the moisture is too abundant, and the lack of moisture in the pot and the air around the plant leads to spider mite damage to the gerbera. In addition to mites, the plant is also affected by aphids and whiteflies. Neglecting preventive measures when planting, such as inspecting purchased plants to see if they are infected with diseases, disinfecting the soil leads to infection by various fungal diseases, in particular late blight and fusarium

If you allow a sharp change in air humidity and temperature, water the gerbera plant with cold water, and get too carried away with nitrogen fertilizers, then these actions may well provoke fungal diseases of the gerberas - powdery mildew. Measures to combat all gerbera scourges are standard: when purchasing the plant, you must carefully examine it; before planting, the soil for the plant must be disinfected by steaming; compliance with all rules for caring for the plant; if damage is detected by a particular pest or disease, the affected parts must be removed and the plant treated with an appropriate product; In order to localize the disease, the diseased plant must be separated from healthy plants.

How to preserve begonia tubers until spring? If the begonia was grown from purchased tubers whose size is more than 3 cm, it is given a dormant period from the end of November to mid-February. If tuberous begonia is grown from seeds or by cuttings from the leaves of an adult plant, it does not need a dormant period. Storing begonia tubers in winter depends entirely on the age of the plant and the size of its tuber. How to prepare a plant for winter? What to do with young tubers? All questions are answered by experienced flower growers.

How to store begonia tubers at home?

The dormant period of tuberous begonia begins in mid-November and lasts until mid-February. However, you need to prepare for it in advance. If the plant blooms, experts recommend regularly removing faded flowers. If begonia lays new buds in September, they should be cut off without regret. Why? The flower soon enters a dormant period, and after flowering the tuber weakens.

How to preserve adult begonia tubers?

Here we will talk about plants whose age exceeds 2 years, and the size of the tuber is at least 3-4 cm in diameter. The storage conditions for first-year begonias in winter are somewhat different.

In September-October, many begonias' leaves begin to wither and dry out.. This is a natural process. In this way, the plant prepares to go to sleep in winter. What to do? If the pot is on a glassed-in loggia or balcony, it is brought into the house if there is a threat of night frost. The optimal temperature during the day is +10...+15 degrees, at night - not lower than +5 degrees. If begonia was grown indoors, it is transferred to a cool place where the temperature does not rise above +15 degrees.

So, preparing begonia tubers for winter begins from the moment the plant’s leaves begin to wither and turn yellow. This happens in September-October. Such leaves are not cut, but wait until they are completely dry. They are simply unscrewed over time without any extra effort.

Important!!! The green leaves of begonia cannot be plucked, thereby forcibly putting the flower to rest. The leaves, when they dry out, convey everything nutrients tuber By tearing off all the foliage while it is still green, the grower deprives the tuber of the opportunity to gain mass.

Watering begonias from the end of September to the end of October is significantly reduced.. You need to make sure that the soil is slightly moist. Depending on the temperature, the optimal watering regime is once every 1-1.5 weeks. This humidity regime stimulates the plant to sleep. In conditions of lack of moisture, the leaves will turn yellow faster. At the end of October, watering is completely stopped.

The leaves on the begonia should partially turn yellow at the end of October.. They are carefully removed. If this does not happen, reduce the temperature of the flower.

Begonias do not need lighting during the dormant period.. Moreover, it can harm the flower. Indeed, under direct sunlight, the flower may wake up ahead of time, so the plant, after it has shed all its foliage, must be rearranged dark place. Optimal storage temperature is +5...+12 degrees.

Optimal storage of begonia tubers in winter is carried out in basement, where it is quite cool and dark. If the begonia was grown in open ground, it is dug up after the first frost. Without shaking them off the ground, they are laid out in boxes and transferred to the basement. If begonia was grown in pots on the balcony, it does not have to be removed from the ground. After the ground part dies, the flower pots are simply transferred to a dark and cool room. If it is not possible to store it in the basement, it can be a storage room or a space near the balcony.

You can store begonia tubers without soil. To do this, after the above-ground part has died, the tuber is dug out of the ground, dried and placed in a box. You can sprinkle everything with sawdust or peat. It is not recommended to put begonia tubers in a plastic bag for the winter. There, the plant’s breathing process is disrupted and condensation accumulates. It is the cause of rotting.

How to store first-year begonia tubers?

Begonia tubers grown from seeds this year do not go to sleep over the winter. In the first year of its life, the plant tries to increase the mass of the tuber, and therefore retains its leaves. If the seedlings developed in open ground, then before the first night frosts the plants must be transplanted into pots and brought into the house.

How to store first-year tubers in winter? They do not shed their leaves and are not laid to rest. They must wait out the winter in a cool and bright place where the temperature does not drop below + 15 degrees. What do experienced flower growers do:

1. Feeding has been stopped since September.
2. The buds that the plant lays in September-October must be cut off.
3. It is necessary to water the first-year begonia tuber as the top layer of soil dries. Watering is carried out along the contour of the pot. Water should not get on the tuber. The optimal watering regime is once a week. It can be done less often if the temperature is within +15 degrees.
4. Lighting is required. Otherwise, the begonia stems will simply stretch out.
5. You can store begonia in winter on the east side of the house. But heating devices can dry out the air in this case and raise the temperature environment, and therefore you can put a container of water on the windowsill.
6. You cannot feed the flower. Although it has retained the above-ground part, it practically does not consume nutrients from the soil, and their excess can lead to rotting of the roots.

In the spring, elongated cuttings can be cut and rooted, but only after the tuber produces new stems.

Indoor gerbera is a colorful representative of the Asteraceae (Asteraceae) family. There are more than twenty subspecies of the plant. On an industrial scale, gerbera is grown for cutting. The plant retains its decorativeness and freshness well after separation of the roots. The domestic representative of the herbaceous crop is distinguished by long, pointed leaves. A group of vegetative organs forms a rosette at the base of the plant. The long peduncle can reach more than 50 cm in height. One bud is formed on the stem. The size of a houseplant does not exceed 30 centimeters. Varieties intended for cultivation in open ground bloom from the beginning summer season Until August. Gerbera can bloom inflorescences at home all year round with minor breaks. After flowering, fruits appear on the plant in the form of seed pods.

Representatives of the Asteraceae family must be protected from drafts.

Microclimatic conditions

The location of the plant should be protected from drafts. While airing, the flowerpot should be taken out of the room. The flower needs good air circulation. Therefore on summer period You can take the culture out into the fresh air.

Temperature

Gerbera is native to South Africa. The exotic representative prefers warm rooms. Ideal temperature for breeding decorative flower- from + 20 to + 25 degrees.

Excessive heat is also detrimental to the flower. Prolonged exposure to the scorching sun can damage the foliage and cause premature wilting of the inflorescences.

Air humidity

The subtropical plant develops well in conditions of high humidity. It is enough to water the crop twice a week. During the summer - as needed. It is not advisable to allow the top layer of the substrate to dry out. Stagnant water can damage tender roots indoor gerbera.

Flower prefers high humidity air.

If water gets into the gerbera rosette, the plant may develop fungus or root rot. A safe way to water is through a tray. After half an hour, remove all remaining liquid. Otherwise, the gerbera roots may suffer from excess moisture. It is not recommended to water the plant with cold water.

To create a sufficient level of air humidity, you can spray the liquid on the plant. Droplets of water should fall exclusively on the leaves. For the safety of the crop, you should spray the space next to the flowerpot.

You can leave a container of water near the flower or turn on a humidifier.

Culture transplantation

Optimal time for replanting gerberas - the end of February. The container and soil will need to be changed annually. The flower should be removed very carefully. Gerbera has fragile roots. Therefore, you can use the method of transferring an earthen clod.

The neck of the gerbera in a new container should remain above the surface of the substrate. Otherwise root system may rot.

An adult plant purchased from a garden nursery requires special care. It is not recommended to replant and water the crop for two weeks. It is necessary to prepare a wide container of larger diameter in advance. For replanting you will need to use transport soil.

The nuances of changing the container and substrate can be learned from the video:

Gerbera care in winter

In winter, it is not enough for the plant to form buds. natural light and warmth. Fluorescent lamps can be used to increase daylight hours. The plant will prolong its decorative effect in the cold season.

In winter, it is advisable to stop feeding the plant and reduce the amount of watering. It is not recommended to allow the soil mixture to dry out.

Heating devices can damage the plant. Therefore, in the cold season, spraying should be continued according to the summer scheme.

Trimming Features

Indoor culture does not require constant pruning. Fading inflorescences must be plucked off. Pruning the stems has a detrimental effect on the further formation of buds. It is not recommended to leave dried flowers on a gerbera. The plant will spend a lot of energy forming fruits. As a result, the growth of the crop and the production of new buds will slow down.

Cleanse indoor gerbera needed as needed.

Outdoor plant

A flowerpot with gerbera can be taken out in the summer open area. The place must be protected from wind, drafts, pests and scorching sun.

Features of cultivation

Substrate

To grow indoor gerbera, you need to prepare loose and breathable soil. There are several options for soil mixtures:

1. Mix equal parts perlite and softened peat.
2. Pre-steamed coconut bark must be mixed with peat.
3. Combine leaf soil with clean river sand and peat.
4. You can use one component - high-moor peat.

Garden representative offices sell ready-made mixtures for indoor crops of the Asteraceae family. It should be taken into account that the optimal soil acidity level should be from 5.5 to 6.

Top dressing

The exotic plant can be fertilized with complex preparations for flowering indoor crops. During the period of active vegetation development, you need to fertilize once every 2 weeks. It is not advisable to use organic components.

Complex preparations for indoor plants can be used as fertilizer.

Container for indoor gerbera

An unglazed ceramic pot is ideal for growing a flower. High degree breathability promotes the development of culture. The container volume should be about one liter.

Typical diseases and pests

Indoor gerbera is a fairly resistant crop to various pests and diseases. The main reason for the appearance of fungal spores is excessive watering of the soil and stagnation of liquid in the substrate. The main danger to gerberas is powdery mildew, fusarium, late blight and gray mold.

Indoor gerbera is affected by a fungal disease.

On initial stage It is necessary to immediately clean the plant from damaged areas. Humidity levels should be reduced. You can increase air circulation by ventilating three times a day. Copper sulfate must be sprayed onto the plant.

As preventive measures you need:

1. Carefully follow the rules of plant care.
2. Provide drainage in the container.
3. Stop fertilizing with nitrogen components.
4. Regularly monitor the humidity level of the substrate and environment.
5. Treat the flower with Fitosporin once every two months.

Dry air (below 45%) promotes the appearance of aphids, spider mites, whiteflies and thrips. It is necessary to isolate the pot with the flower and treat the crop with an insecticide. For indoor gerberas, it is advisable to purchase “Fitoverm”.

It is necessary to regularly inspect the culture. In the early stages of damage, saving a gerbera is much easier. The soil and container should be thoroughly disinfected before planting.

Reaction to plant

People who are prone to allergic reactions for asters, dahlias, daisies, daisies, chrysanthemums, buttercups and some varieties of sunflowers, you should avoid growing the flower at home.

The plant can cause:

1. Frequent sneezing.
2. Itching of the skin.
3. Difficulty breathing.
4. Rhinitis.
5. Cardiopalmus.
6. Nausea.
7. Dizziness.

It is necessary to take an antihistamine and seek help from a medical center.

Indoor gerbera can cause a severe allergic reaction.

Methods of culture propagation

The plant can remain decorative for 4 years. Then you will need to update the gerbera. To do this, you should choose one of the methods.

Propagation by seeds

For distribution indoor culture necessary in early spring prepare low pots or wooden boxes. The container should be filled with turf soil, fine-grained sand and moistened peat.

You need to carefully scatter the seeds onto the surface of the substrate. A thin layer (about 1 cm) must be covered planting material sand.

To evenly moisten the soil, use a spray bottle. You can create greenhouse conditions using transparent glass or polyethylene. The container must be moved to a lighted room with a temperature of about + 23 degrees.

The first shoots will appear in a week. It is necessary to remove the cover. “Greenhouse” protection will destroy small sprouts.

After the formation of three full-fledged leaves, the gerbera should be planted in a separate container. The first buds will appear in 6 months.

Dividing the bush

For breeding, you should choose a healthy indoor gerbera. During transplantation, you can divide the plant into several parts. Each segment must contain at least 3 growth points.

You will need to cut off some of the roots of the divisions. It is recommended to remove inflorescences and buds. The affected areas should be treated with crushed ash. Babies can be planted in permanent containers. The growing point should remain on the surface of the soil.

Cuttings

The most affordable and easiest way to reproduce. It is necessary to cut off a cutting from the mother culture. Part of the rhizome and two full leaves should remain on the stem.

Separating cuttings from indoor gerbera.

Before planting, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten the soil. The container should be kept in a warm, well-lit room during rooting.

Why indoor gerbera does not bloom

It is very easy to achieve abundant flowering of indoor crops. The number of inflorescences depends on the solar illumination of the location of the crop. Even with abundant sunlight, buds may not form.

The main secret of gerbera is the length of daylight hours. For long-lasting lush flowering, you will need to provide the crop with access to sunlight for 12 hours. Flowering can become remontant if the indoor gerbera is illuminated with fluorescent lamps for the required time daily.

If the crop is not given rest, prolonged flowering can weaken the gerbera. In the next growing season, the flower will develop lush green foliage and will not form buds.

How to choose an indoor gerbera

The further development of the plant depends on the quality of the transport substrate. You should choose a nursery that specializes in indoor crops.

A high-quality substrate is the key successful cultivation indoor gerbera.

It is necessary to carefully examine the plant. Damaged shoots, yellow leaves and signs of rotting are signs of damaged, low-quality planting material.

You can purchase an adult flower 20 cm high for 790 rubles. The average cost of seeds per package is 0.04 g. is 22 rubles.