Various technologies for growing potatoes. Specifics of planting and growing potatoes using Dutch technology: advantages and disadvantages of the method. More space for potatoes - better harvest

Some gardeners try to plant more potatoes to make a good supply for the winter. The authors of the published letters have a different approach: it is better to plant less, but to increase the crop yield and improve the quality of the tubers.

Two buckets from one tuber

In my garden, 6 acres are occupied by potatoes, on which I annually grow 15 varieties: Zhukovsky early, Timo (early), Latona, Maidas, Aspia, Adretta (mid-early), Rosara, Beteran, Negrityanka, Golubizna, Svitanok Kyiv, Sonata, Fergana (mid-season), Dutch, Banana (late). I select planting material - healthy, typical tubers weighing 70-150 g - when harvesting potatoes. I wash it in a solution of potassium permanganate Pink colour, dry it well, put it into boxes by variety and store it in the cellar.

A month and a half before planting, I transfer the tubers to a warm place. I cut the large ones so that the buds wake up faster. A week before planting in the ground, I put the tubers in baskets, sprinkle them with moist soil, water them and feed them.

I plant tubers with root lobes at the end of April. I usually prepare the soil in the fall - spread manure, add a little mineral fertilizer and dig it up. Before germination, harrow the bed twice, especially after rain. I'm hilling up the seedlings. I have starlings fighting the Colorado potato beetle - I built several birdhouses for them. And as long as the birds feed their chicks, I have no problems with this pest.

I dig up the first tubers in a month. And after the final harvest of potatoes, to improve the soil health, I grow lettuce, mustard, cabbage, and beets.
I don't always have the opportunity to renew seed material. To propagate any variety, I use sprouts - I cut the tubers, and when the buds begin to grow, I cut the tuber into cubes with one sprout. I sprinkle the cuttings with ash and plant the cuttings in the garden bed. I prepare a hole half a shovel deep the day before, filling it with ash, complex fertilizer and humus. As the plants grow, I add soil, and when the shoots get stronger and a bush forms, I hill up the rows. During the season I feed the potatoes three times: the first time - with pigeon infusion chicken manure, subsequently - mullein infusion.

The bushes grow powerful. From one bud I get up to 2 kg of tubers, and from one uterine tuber I get up to 20 kg of seed material.

A.Dunaev Nizhny Novgorod region

New varieties - new technologies

When, to save space, potatoes are planted with narrow (50-40 cm) row spacing, they do not take into account that the stems, roots, and sometimes tubers can be seriously injured when hilling the bushes and loosening the soil. In this case, plants will become infected and re-infected with viruses and fungal infections. In addition, there is not enough land for high hilling, and the tubers often turn green, and their quality decreases. But the traditional technology, with a row spacing of 70 cm, is not suitable for all varieties.

I have been working with potatoes for almost ten years. I noticed that multi-tuberous varieties (Skazka, Liga, Udacha, Yubilei Zhukova, Spiridon, Timo, Peterburgsky, Charodey) have powerful tops, branched bushes and require big square nutrition, not like the old varieties. Therefore, when growing potatoes for food, I decided to plant them more spaciously - with row spacing of 140 cm and every 30 cm in the row. This technology made it possible to increase potato yields without increasing the cost of fertilizers and plant protection products.

I place the tubers shallowly, in a well-warmed layer of soil. I hill up the first shoots completely - “head over heels”. This technique helps destroy the first wave of weeds, lengthens the underground part of the stem, and protects the shoots from damage by return frosts. I hid the sprouts under the soil, so the Colorado potato beetles fly away to feed in other areas, and the eggs they lay die. As a result, I only need one treatment with an insecticide, while with traditional agricultural technology I could not control the beetle in two.

I carry out the second hilling at a tops height of 25 cm. At the same time, raking the soil from bottom to top, I create a high ridge. This technique, in addition to destroying weeds, reduces moisture loss in dry weather, and in rainy weather, on the contrary, removes excess water from the plants.
With wide-row technology, the bushes do not shade each other, the planting is well ventilated, so potatoes are less affected by late blight and other diseases, and the yield increases. The tubers grow large, healthy, are well stored and there are no green ones among them. I compared two planting methods (according to the 70×30 and 140×30 cm schemes), and it turned out that on wide row spacings general fee Potato production increased by a third, with the share of large marketable tubers increasing by 20%, and the yield of small and non-standard tubers decreasing by 10%.

And further. Wide-row agricultural technology allows you to grow potatoes continuously in the same area. V. Vasiliev

Republic of Chuvashia, village Ilbeshi

"Ringed" the potatoes

I try to spend my energy wisely and do not chase the so-called shaft.

I plant potatoes of at least two varieties with different terms maturation. Traditionally, I germinate the tubers, but I also ring them, making a transverse cut 0.5 cm deep.

On the day of planting, I soak the tubers for an hour in a solution of ammonium nitrate (400 g per 10 liters of water), due to which the number of stems and leaf surface increases.

If the spring is damp, I prepare ridges about 25 cm high. They warm up faster, and the plants on them can more easily tolerate excess moisture.

I hill up the rows of potatoes twice: to increase the number of tubers in the nest (when the sprouts are 3-5 cm high) and after two weeks - for “dry watering”.

During potato flowering, I spray the bushes first with superphosphate extract (50 g, pour 10 liters of hot water and leave for a day), and after two or three days with a 1% humate solution. All this allows you to consistently get a good potato harvest.

N. Chupiro Tyumen

Few people succeed in producing a good harvest of tasty potatoes that can also be stored for a long time. Despite the apparent simplicity of agricultural technology and the plasticity of this crop, each potato variety requires an individual approach, taking into account climatic features terrain. When a gardener complies with these requirements, the plants do not get sick and realize their full potential.

Potatoes in high latitudes

North Tyumen region you can't call it anything good place for gardening: cold spring, early autumn, and the soil here is mostly swampy and tundra. How many bumps will you hit before you work out the appropriate agricultural technology?
We have two garden plots. One is a kind of laboratory in which we test, adapt new species and varieties of plants, and compare them with those already familiar to our region. We devoted another plot entirely to potatoes; they surprise us and please us no less than the flowers.
Our summer is short, but there is enough light and moisture for the potatoes to produce a full harvest. True, provided that the soil is well prepared for it. Therefore, every year (usually in the fall) on a potato plot we improve the fertile layer with a thickness of 25-30 cm. To do this, locally (in rows) we add compost, ash, bottom peat or floodplain soil, sand and organic matter (chicken droppings, fermented weeds, steamed with boiling water sawdust to which urea has been added). In addition, to deoxidize the peat, we add dolomite flour. You cannot put lime.
In the first ten days of May, we take the potatoes out of the cellar, wash the tubers in warm (50°) water, then successively soak them for 3-5 minutes in a solution (also warm) of pink potassium permanganate and copper sulfate(3 g per 10 l). Finally rinse in running water. After drying a little, we ring the tubers (cut the skin along the diameter to a depth of 3-4 mm) and roll them in ash. This technique accelerates the growth of eyes and roots.
Sprinkling with sawdust mixed with ash, we place the tubers in one or two layers in low boxes, place them in dark place at room temperature. From the moment the eyes swell, we periodically begin to spray the tubers with water at room temperature. When the sprouts stretch to 2-5 cm, move the boxes to a bright, cool (10-14°) place. This helps to harden the potatoes, and the sprouts do not stretch. After a week, we raise the temperature to 16-18°. We usually plant potatoes in early June. But if the weather is cold and the soil has not yet warmed up enough to delay the development of sprouts, we again lower the temperature to 15°.
We place the rows of potatoes at a distance of 1 m from each other, and the planting holes - every 40 cm. Such a spacious scheme allows you to form a wide and high ridge during hilling and not injure the roots. In addition, the bushes are well ventilated, do not oppress each other, they have enough nutrition and, as a result, they practically do not get sick.

Another feature of northern agricultural technology: the bed warms up slowly, so we don’t make large holes. We do not lay the planting material deeply and immediately hill it up so that the sprouts are covered with a 3-4 cm layer of soil. Since the more fertile layer should be under the tuber, before planting, add a handful of a mixture of chicken manure and turf soil to each hole.
During the season, we hill up the potatoes two more times: at a shoot height of 15-20 and 35-40 cm. At the same time, we pull out the weeds. Before the second hilling, we feed the plants with a mixture of chicken manure infusion (1 kg of chicken manure per 10 liters of water) and ammophoska (100 g per 50 liters of infusion) - 1 liter of “chatter” per bush. The mixture is first diluted in a ratio of 1:9 with warm (35°) water.
That's all care. There are no Colorado potato beetles in our area. We start digging potatoes in September. And in any weather we get a stable harvest.

Miroshnichenko family Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug, Pyt-yakh

From one tuber

Every year I get and test new varieties of potatoes. I usually use two or three tubers of each variety for this. But to properly evaluate the new product, you need to plant at least a dozen plants. That's why I do it this way.
I put the tubers in boxes with greenhouse soil and let the eyes sprout. Then I cut off the sprouts along with the resulting root lobe and plant the cuttings in cups. Tubers
I put it back into the herbs. I do this no more than twice, otherwise the tubers will weaken greatly and will not have time to produce a harvest.
I transfer the finished seedlings and rooted tubers to a film greenhouse under the arcs, and when the threat of frost and return cold passes, I plant them in the beds. The method is convenient and economical: I test new varieties, and it doesn’t require a lot of space, and the costs are minimal.

L.Vorobiev Primorsky Krai

Despite the heat and drought

Potatoes are the main crop in our family. But getting a good harvest is difficult: vegetable gardens suffer in dry summers, and there is a catastrophic lack of water for irrigation. Moreover, heat has the same effect on both early and late-ripening potatoes.
So I’m experimenting to depend on the weather as little as possible. Not right away, but I found my own agricultural technology, in which potatoes are not afraid of drought and drying winds.
I immerse the planting material directly in the boxes for 6 hours in large bath with a solution of potassium permanganate. Then I germinate the tubers so that the sprouts are 2 cm long.
I prepare holes according to the 70x70 cm pattern. To do this, I dig up the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet, lay it next to the hole, and loosen the bottom as for planting onions. I don’t fill the holes with anything: before the potatoes, corn grows in the garden, and after it there are beans and cucumbers, under which I add manure humus. Carefully, so as not to damage the sprouts, I plant the tubers as deep as possible, mulch with soil from the rows and trample down each hole. When seedlings 2-5 cm high appear, I completely cover them with soil, which I placed next to the holes. At the same time, the weeds die, and the soil becomes airy, but does not dry out. After a week and a half, I carry out the second weeding and light hilling. That is, I add soil between the potato shoots. And finally, when the height of the bush is 15-20 cm, I carry out the last hilling, also taking soil from the row spacing. Further care comes down to protecting the planting from the Colorado potato beetle.

For two years now, my potatoes are no worse than those of my neighbor, who waters his garden from a well using an electric pump. In addition, my method is suitable for both early and late late varieties potatoes. And I grow at least four varieties.

Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Stable, but with a caveat

The cherished dream of gardeners is to buy potatoes that do not get sick. Alas, there are no varieties that are absolutely resistant to infectious diseases. Moreover, potatoes of the same variety in one region can be more painful than in another. Moreover, even in the same village, with similar agricultural technology, one neighbor’s potato plantings sometimes suffer less disease than another’s.

Nevertheless, under equal growing conditions, complex resistance (although this concept is, of course, relative) to late blight, Alternaria and viruses is demonstrated by the varieties Super, Sazanka, Ramensky, Reuzka, Manuella, Berolina, Taiga, Iris, Zenit, Heiko, Olev, Eulpa, Oza, Spring, Borodyansky pink, Veselovsky, Priamurets, Nevsky, Pushkinets, Primorets, Amurets, Dedovik, Dalvas.

More often, resistance manifests itself to a single infection. For example, varieties Argo, Biniya, Veneta, Gelda, Desiree, Eva, Cayuga, Meta, Katahdin, Pamir, Paul Wagner, Dr. McIntosh, Everest, Airline are rarely affected by Alternaria blight; late blight Gita, Greta, Dobro, Dorita, Katu k, Leander, Montana, Pearl, Pentland Dale, Pentland Yavori, Renova, Refeni;

viral infection - Aureya, Beta, Bena, Baubin, Valdor, Vesna, Vi-gro, Galina, Gamma, Gulba, Eta, Kar-dia, Maramba, Marion, Nevsky, Pereseet, Pentland, Hafk, Secunda, Endra, Judita.

The potato varieties listed below are more often and more susceptible to:

Alternaria blight Akat, Anette, Ari, Arka, Beta. Birga, Vorotynsky early, Friendly, Monitor, Montana, Omega, Orlik, Pioneer, Prie-kulsky, Slavic, Umbra, Christ;

late blight Belinda, Beta, Bona, Bretta, Varta, Vilia, Gamma, Druzhny, Zapolyarny, Igor, Isabella, Karsa, Kenavo, Kora, Krasnopolsky. Lori, Maya, Marfona, Miranda, Moscow early, Mostovsky, Nega, Forget-me-not, Omsky early, Pirmunes, Pola, Priekulsky early, Privolzhsky, Svetitsa, Slavyansky, Sovkhozny, Tucuman, Ufimets, Estina, Ekud;

mottling virus Arka, Belinda, Birga, Biliya, Gloria, Zapolyarny, Zauralsky, Igor, Kabardinsky, Karsa, Kenavo, Kora, Kurgansky, Kurgansky improved, Lori, Maya, Miranda, Montana, Nega, Omsk early, Orlik, Privolzhsky, Rhubarb, Saturn, Falensky, Christ, Estina, Ehud;

wrinkled mosaic virus Akat, Anette, Voran, Vorotynsky, Gloria, Isabella, Carolina, Maya, Miranda, New, Orlik. Prokura.

Thus, knowing which infections are most often observed in your areas, you can select potato varieties that are least susceptible to these “sores”.

N. Zeyruk

How to grow potatoes in bags?

I have a dacha, but it’s just a small plot. There is only enough space for greens and tomatoes, there is no room left for potatoes. A friend advised me to plant it in bags, because they don’t even need beds. Tell me how to grow potatoes in bags?

Potatoes are the main component of the diet, so their plantings occupy most of the garden plot. It’s good if it has a decent size and fertile soil. But what should those gardeners do, whose properties are located on poor soil, or are very small? IN in this case It's worth learning how to grow potatoes in bags. This method will allow you to get a harvest without even having a place for planting, and it also does not require much effort.

Advantages of the method

Growing potatoes in bags is the least expensive way, both financially and physically:

• such “beds” do not need to be constantly weeded and hilled;
• there are no costs for annual plowing;
• potatoes are not susceptible to soil diseases;
• plantings are not affected by pests living in garden soil on ordinary beds;
• shoots emerge more unitedly and grow more powerful compared to garden shoots;
• root crops do not rot;
• Harvesting is much easier and faster.

And of course, after harvesting, the potatoes remain in bags soil mixture. It can be sprinkled on a flower bed under flowers or under crops in vegetable beds, provided that they do not have diseases in common with potatoes.

As for the negative aspects of this method, there are practically none. Unless growing requires a lot of substrate and constant monitoring of the humidity in the bags.

Preparing the soil and beds

To grow potatoes, you can purchase special bags that have a valve for harvesting and ventilation. To minimize material costs, tubers are planted in ordinary bags for sugar or flour.

If the bag is made from durable material, poorly permeable to water, small holes should be made in its lower part before planting. This is necessary so that excess moisture drains freely.

To fill the bags, use soil from the garden, mixing it with humus (rotted sawdust or leaves, manure). It is also good to add a little clay - this way the water will drain more slowly and the soil will not dry out.

You cannot use soil from an area where crops of the nightshade family grew. You should also avoid places where mole crickets live, so as not to introduce the pest from outside.

Technology for planting potatoes in bags

Potatoes begin to be planted in late April - early May. To do this, tuck the bag a little and pour the first layer of soil onto the bottom. The thickness of the layer depends on the size of the bag (10-35 cm).

Planting is done in one of the following ways:

When the sprouts reach 7 cm in height, add soil until it covers them. Only the tops of the leaves remain on top. As the bushes grow, soil is added until the bag is filled to 2/3 of its height.

Some gardeners fill the bags completely, place them (not stand them) on the ground and make cuts in the shape of a cross, where they plant the tubers.

Bags of potatoes should be placed on sunny place and water regularly, preventing the soil from drying out.

Potatoes in bags: adding soil - video

Growing potatoes in a barrel - features of planting, feeding and care

Unusual methods of growing potatoes, for example, in bags, high beds or under straw, have recently become widely known to domestic gardeners. But if you think about it, many on their own plot observed how a tuber that fell into a container with compost produced not only friendly shoots, but also tubers. In a well-heated, nutritious and necessarily humid environment, the crop produces a harvest even in limited quantities.

Read also: Find out why apples crack and rot on an apple tree

In fact, the method of planting potatoes in barrels and other similar containers, which may not be metal, plastic or wood, is based on this principle. The main condition is that the barrel is higher than 30 cm, the roots are supplied with sufficient moisture and oxygen, and the soil is loose and nutritious.

Preparing to plant potatoes

When a suitable container has been found, there is no need to rush into planting. Before the potatoes are immersed in the ground, it is important to remove the bottom from the barrel or drill a sufficiently large number of drainage holes in it. It would be nice if similar perforations appeared on the side walls of a high container.

Read also: Planting and caring for potatoes in open ground

This technique will help remove excess moisture and allow oxygen to penetrate to the roots of the plants. In the case of potatoes, this is doubly important, since the root system is not so large, but the load on it is enormous.

The technology for growing potatoes in a barrel implies that the amount of planting material, and then the tubers formed in the container, is quite large. So that the gardener can control the delivery of moisture and oxygen:

• a perforated hose or plastic pipe plugged at the bottom with cuts at a distance of up to 20 cm from each other is vertically inserted into a high barrel.
• the open end, through which, after planting is completed, it will be possible to water and feed the potato plantation, is taken outside.

If you connect a compressor or pump to the hole, the soil in the barrel can easily be saturated with oxygen. And the root system drip irrigation will help to evenly moisten the soil under the potatoes.

Planting potatoes in a barrel and caring for the plantation

Potatoes in a barrel cannot do without a safe, nutritious soil mixture. For this crop, soil consisting of equal parts is suitable finished compost or rotted humus and ordinary garden soil.

Since the plants will be grown in an almost enclosed small volume, it is important that pests dangerous to potatoes do not end up in the barrel along with the soil. Therefore, soil for neutralizing insects and their larvae:

• pre-calcined or steamed;
• Even in the fall, before planting, they are treated with chemicals.

In the fall, when the soil for growing potatoes in a barrel is just being prepared, a mixture of ammonium nitrate or urea, double superphosphate, potassium compounds and ash is added to it. In sandy soils deficient in magnesium, magnesium sulfate and dolomite flour are added. Then the barrel is placed in its designated place and soil is poured onto the bottom in a layer of 10 to 15 cm. Seed sprouted tubers or pieces with hatched eyes are laid on the ground, pressing slightly, and ten centimeters of soil mixture is poured on top of the potatoes.

When the sprouts rise 2–3 cm above the ground level, they must be sprinkled with soil mixture again. If the plant is not allowed to form full-fledged foliage, the potato directs all its efforts to the development of the root system with new stolons, on which tubers will subsequently appear. The process of adding earth is repeated until the barrel is filled a meter. There is no need to make the soil layer higher. Until the end of the season, plants may not have enough strength to form high-quality tubers, since all potential will be wasted on the formation of the root system.

An increase in yield depends on the choice of high-quality planting material and the agrotechnical techniques used. When growing potatoes using Dutch technology, the plant is created favorable conditions for the development of the root system, which means the formation of tubers will be more intense than with traditional methods. This method is mainly used in farms with automated processing fields. But the technology is universal, so gardeners are increasingly using it to form their beds.

Dutch technology: general principles of the methodology, cultivation features, planting schemes

The main difference between Dutch technology and traditional ways planting potatoes in the formation of ridges, rather than beds or holes. When planted to a depth of more than 10 cm, the tubers do not receive enough heat and oxygen, the water stagnates, which can lead to rotting of the root crops. The Dutch came up with the idea of ​​laying the tubers in shallow furrows and sprinkling loose soil or humus on top. As the bush grows, the soil roll increases. Thus, air circulation does not stop and water stagnation does not occur.

To achieve the main result - a high yield, it is necessary to carry out a certain set of agrotechnical techniques at each stage of the growing season. The technology is based on soil aeration, proper crop rotation and a special arrangement of bushes on the site. The result of following all recommendations will be a harvest of up to 2 kg of potatoes from one bush. The method consists of sequential actions:

1. Selection of planting material.
2. Soil preparation taking into account crop rotation.
3. Planting tubers according to a certain pattern.
4. Plant care: fertilization, hilling, watering.

Dutch technology was developed for industrial cultivation potatoes, but it can also be used in small areas. The secret of success is to adhere to all the recommendations, because agricultural techniques complement each other and give results as a whole.

Selection and preparation of planting material

In Holland, special high-yielding varieties have been bred that are resistant to diseases and pests and are suitable for cultivation using this technology: Sante, Cleopatra, Anosta, Asterix, Resi and others. Seed potatoes should be purchased in specialized stores, where the quality is confirmed by a certificate. Before buying planting material, you should familiarize yourself with its characteristics - some varieties are only suitable for growing in fields, but there are universal ones that will also yield crops in small beds. You should choose small tubers weighing up to 70 g from the “elite” and “super-elite” categories.

Planting sprouted tubers guarantees 100% germination

It is necessary to plant sprouted tubers - this guarantees 100% germination. When planting mechanically, the sprouts should not be more than 5 mm, and when planting manually - about 2 cm.

Soil preparation

An important condition for obtaining a high yield is choosing a place for beds and preparing the soil. Potato rows should not be placed on a slope. This will disrupt the water regime, and the raised ridges will slide and crumble. The fertile layer must contain humus; if the soil is poor, then it should be fed.

Potatoes cannot be grown in the same area. This will lead to damage to the plantation by late blight, scab, and rot. It is necessary to observe crop rotation and not return potatoes to the same plot earlier than after three years. Predecessor crops should be cereals, for example winter crops.

Autumn processing

Plow the soil to a depth of 25 cm or dig up with a shovel, removing weeds. Add semi-rotted manure at the rate of 5 kg per 10 m2; you can replace it with mature compost. As mineral fertilizing per 10 m 2 the following are applied: superphosphate 0.5 kg and potash fertilizers 0.2 kg.

Spring treatment

In the spring, before planting, treat the field with a cultivator, and in the garden plot, loosen the top layer with a pitchfork to a depth of no more than 15 cm. This will preserve air chambers in the deep layers of the soil, through which air will circulate and water will flow to the roots.

In order for the soil to ripen faster, it should not be covered or compacted. This will allow the top layer to dry and warm up faster. In spring, nitrogen fertilizers, such as urea, are applied.

Dates for planting potatoes using Dutch technology

The only criterion for determining the start date field work- soil maturity. This means that the soil has dried out enough and falls away from the shovel. If a lump of earth thrown from a meter height crumbles, then the soil is ready - approximately this period begins in March. Early planting promotes the formation of roots, the green mass grows evenly, and new tubers grow faster. But we must not forget that potatoes are a heat-loving plant, and they cannot be planted in unheated soil.

The soil should be prepared immediately before planting. Otherwise, the land will dry out, the aeration and drainage regime will be disrupted, which will negatively affect the harvest.

Planting scheme using Dutch technology

1. Potatoes are planted in rows, which are located along the north-south line. The distance between the ridges should be at least 65 cm, optimally 75 cm. The depth of the furrows for planting is from 4 to 8 cm. The tubers are laid out at a distance of 30 cm. This arrangement allows the bush to grow freely, and the root system receives enough heat and nutrition. When planting the tuber, sprinkle a handful of compost, wood ash, and to protect against wireworms and slugs, sprinkle onion peels at the bottom of the furrow.
2. To cover the beds, ridges up to 10 cm high and no more than 35 cm wide are poured. As the bush grows, you will need to add soil.
3. A month after the emergence of seedlings, the furrows are filled to the required dimensions - height 25 cm and width 75 cm.
4. Mature bushes need loosening, leveling of fallen trees and treatment with fungicides, insecticides and herbicides.

Gallery: stages of potato cultivation using the Dutch method

According to Dutch technology, the tubers are laid out in furrows Young plants need to be earthed up to improve oxygen access After the second hilling, the furrows take their final form Mature bushes form neat ridges that are easy to process

Plant care

Dutch technology provides a number of simple sequential actions when growing potatoes:

1. Two weeks after planting, it is necessary to remove weeds between the rows and place ridges on the beds with potatoes. As a result, loose soil does not interfere with the growth of the bush, the penetration of air and the removal of excess moisture.
2. Treat row spacing with herbicides to prevent further weed growth. Spray the bushes with drugs against pests and diseases. The effect of the drugs wears off after two weeks. Therefore for growing season there should be 6 such treatments.
3. Watering is carried out during strictly defined periods of bush growth. The first is before flowering begins, the second is 10 days after the flowers fall, and after another three weeks the last watering of the season is carried out.

You can spray with chemicals only before the budding period. During flowering, treatment with poisons is prohibited!

Planting treatments against weeds, pests and diseases

Herbicides that can be used to treat sprouted potato beds must be selective. This means they inhibit growth weed and do not affect the main plant. Such drugs are: “Titus”, “Zellek super”, “Centurion”, “Lazurit” and others. Do not exceed the concentration recommended by the manufacturer. Spraying is carried out using manual or automated sprayers. The effect of herbicides wears off after two weeks. Therefore, up to six treatments are carried out per season.

Herbicides are poison, so the preparation of the working solution and spraying must be carried out in protective clothing.

Potato plantations are amazing Colorado beetle, wireworm - complex drugs should be used against them. Before planting, the drug “Tabu” is applied under the tuber, and after the bushes appear, if necessary, spray with “Fitoverm”, “Beetle Eater” or similar chemicals. For diseases, it is necessary to carry out treatment twice a month: drugs such as “Ordan” and “Revus” are used. If the potato beds are affected by beetles and diseases, then you should not mix different poisons; it is better to spray them with complex insecto-fungo-stimulants such as “Potato Rescuer”. The set includes three ampoules: an insectoacaricide, a broad-spectrum fungicide and a growth regulator. Dissolve these ampoules in a bucket of water and spray at the rate of 10 liters of solution per hundred square meters.

Watering mode

Potatoes do not like stagnation of moisture at the roots. Therefore, it should not be watered often, but in accordance with the growing seasons. The first watering provides moisture for the formation of bushes and flowers, the second watering after flowering lays the tubers, and the third, after another three weeks, nourishes the growing root crops. Dutch technology is based on the formation of high ridges, so direct watering can destroy them. If you decide to grow potatoes in strict accordance with technology, you will have to install a drip irrigation system along the ridges. This will ensure uniform wetting of the soil and will not destroy the formed ridges. Watering is considered sufficient if the soil is wet to the height of the ridge, but does not drain from the filled ridges. An additional advantage of drip irrigation is the economical consumption of water - moisture penetrates directly to the roots and does not spill between the rows.

The timing of collection depends on the purpose for which the potatoes are needed. Seed material is collected no later than the beginning of August. At this time, the bulk of the tubers have grown to the required size and have reached a degree of maturity that will ensure germination next year. The main harvest can begin to be harvested in a month.

Two weeks before digging up the tubers, it is necessary to carry out desiccation - spraying with preparations that dry the tops, for example, Reglon Super, Basta. As a result, the tubers ripen, the peel thickens, which increases the safety of the crop and reduces mechanical damage during collection and transportation.

When potatoes are infected with late blight, treatment with desiccant will save the crop due to its fungicidal properties and direct destructive effect on living tissue. The disease is destroyed along with the tops and does not spread to root crops.

Gallery: Harvest

You can mow the tops in the garden manually Special units are used to automate labor Potatoes grown using the Dutch method will delight you with a rich harvest

How to grow potatoes according to Dutch experience in the country

It is possible to obtain a potato yield of 2 kg from one bush on personal plot. To do this, it is necessary to adapt Dutch technology. The main mistakes gardeners make:

• Failure to comply with crop rotation. The soil does not receive the necessary rest, and the risk of disease increases.
• Use of low-quality seed material. Improperly prepared tubers do not produce high yields.
• Reducing the distance between rows. As a result, plantings thicken and soil heating decreases.

It is important to remember that only compliance with all the nuances will ensure a good harvest. Disease resistant varieties should be selected.

Adaptation of industrial techniques of Dutch technology to dacha conditions

Correcting the method when growing in the country should not concern the principles, but only the processing methods. For example, instead of a cultivator, loosen the ground with a hoe, hoe or Fokin flat cutter, use manual hillers: frame or with wheels.

You can germinate the tubers in any way; the permissible length of the sprouts is up to 2 cm, since they will not break when planted by hand. As soon as the bush begins to rise above the ground, it is necessary to add a ridge and hide the young plants, this will saturate the soil with oxygen and accelerate their development. Repeated hilling is carried out after another two weeks, during which the final shaft is formed: the bush is covered with earth to a height of 30 cm, the width of the base of the ridge is 60 cm, and the top is 15 cm.

After the first shoots appear and after each rain, it is necessary to loosen the soil. It is better to do this with a rake so as not to damage the emerging sprouts. First you need to process the top, and then use raking movements to collect the crumbled walls of the shaft, maintaining its shape.

When growing potatoes at home using the Dutch method, it is not necessary to treat weed rows with herbicides. A more environmentally friendly method is to remove the grass by hand or with a flat cutter and leave it between the beds as mulch. This will slow down the growth of new weeds. The harvesting process can also be carried out without the use of desiccants. The tops need to be mowed, and after 10–12 days the potatoes should be dug up.

Dutch technology creates conditions for the development of the bush, so it is universal: suitable for both large farms and amateur gardeners. Although strict adherence to all agricultural practices is required, the invested labor will pay off with a high yield of large potatoes.

Growing potatoes is a process that affects the yield. In order to receive high yield, it is necessary to adhere to the technology of growing potatoes. In this article we tried to provide the necessary information that will help you create favorable conditions for growing potatoes.

Potato- belongs to the Solanaceae family ( Solanaceae), a tuber-bearing vegetable crop that has firmly entered our lives. Despite the fact that our region is far from being our homeland, it is potatoes that have become national dish for all Slavic cuisine.

Growing Potatoes - Predecessors

The best predecessors for potatoes are legumes, cabbage, root vegetables, pumpkins and cucumbers.

Under no circumstances should potatoes be planted after sunflowers, sorghum, tomatoes, or after representatives of the nightshade family.

The year before planting potatoes, experts recommend sowing oats. Oats have disinfectant properties. It inhibits the activity of fungal potato pathogens. At the same time, the oat crop is not removed from the field until spring, and the plant residues are then covered up.

Growing potatoes - preparing planting material

First, you need to decide on the purpose of growing potatoes. You strive to harvest the harvest by mid-summer, or you prefer to make preparations for the winter period. WITH early varieties the harvest can be harvested after 50-60 days, from mid-early - 60-80, mid-ripening - 80-100, mid-late - 100-120, and late - after 120 days or more. It must be remembered that in late potato varieties the amount of starch is greater and the taste is higher. And they store much better and longer.

Potatoes are grown as tubers. If you have a few of them, the tubers can be cut. Only so that there are 2-3 sprouts on each piece, and the cut is made in a horizontal plane. You can also use the stems of developed and powerful potato bushes as planting material.

What tubers to choose as planting material? The size of the tuber should be equal to a chicken egg. This weighs approximately 50-70 g. Smaller ones are also suitable - 25-30 g each. But in the second case, a normal harvest can be harvested only when the planting material itself is healthy and without flaws. Naturally, diseased tubers cannot be used for these purposes.

Before planting, 2 weeks before planting, the nodules must be germinated. The best time for planting will be when the soil at a depth of the first 10 cm warms up by +8 ºС. The early varieties are planted first, followed by the middle ones, and the late ones at the end.

There is such a thing as vernalization of potatoes. Thanks to this process, seedling germination is stimulated, productivity and the amount of dry matter increases.

If you decide to carry out vernalization, select the tubers you need and place them in a room with an air temperature of +12 to +15 ºС. It should be laid out in rows, the thickness of which will be equal to several tubers. They are kept like this for 30-40 days, sorting through every 5-7 days and removing the spoiled ones. As a result, 1-2 cm of sprouts should appear on the planting material. All shoots that appeared before vernalization (they white) feel free to remove them, as they are not viable. You need to be careful with the seedlings, because if they are damaged, the tuber will not sprout for a very long time.

You can make the solution yourself. To do this you need 0.5-0.6 g of boric acid, 0.3-0.6 g of manganese sulfate, 0.4-0.8 g of copper sulfate. All this is dissolved in 1 liter of water. For every 10 kg of planting material, a liter of micronutrient solution is consumed. Thus, the moistened tubers are kept under burlap for several hours.

The distance between tubers differs depending on the selected variety. For the early ones, this is 25-30 cm, and the row spacing is 50 cm. The middle and late ones are planted with row spacing of 60 cm, and the tubers are planted 30-30 cm apart. It is better not to reduce the distance, otherwise hilling the plants will be too labor-intensive. Tubers are planted to a depth of 12-15 cm.

Growing Potatoes - Soil Preparation

When growing potatoes on loamy soils, deep plowing is carried out to a depth of 28-30 cm, on lighter soils - up to 20-22 cm. deep version yield and starchiness will increase.

Due to the characteristics of the root system of potato plants (namely, a low degree of branching and low ability to go deep and push apart soil particles) Special attention It is worth paying attention to loosening the soil. If it is not porous and loosened enough, the roots simply will not be able to develop.

As a standard, the main tillage for potatoes begins in the fall after harvesting the predecessor crop. Before autumn plowing/digging, you need to carry out at least a few peelings. This will provoke the growth of weeds, which will be destroyed during plowing. The depth of peeling will depend on the number of weeds and their predecessors. The maximum depth will be 10-12 cm.

Plowing (or digging) is best done by turning the layer over.

In spring, as soon as the soil freezes and dries, you need to loosen it again. But do this only when the soil can crumble on its own. The essence of such loosening is to consolidate moisture and again to germinate unwanted vegetation.

After the soil has completely thawed, you need to dig everything up again to its full depth. After which – immediately level it. Soils of light granulometric composition in the spring do not dig up to full depth with the formation turned over.

It is advisable to use an area with a flat surface. But if you are unlucky and have to grow potatoes in lowlands with waterlogging and heavy soil, we advise you to first form ridges. This will stimulate the warming and drying of the earth.

It is most convenient to mark planting rows with a marker or a stretched cord. This will allow the potatoes to be planted neatly and evenly. For sloping terrain, the rows are placed across the slope. This method of planting will improve consumption nutrients and moisture.

Growing potatoes - timing and planting depth

As mentioned above, the date of planting potatoes is determined by sufficient warming of the earth. In more northern regions This time comes by mid-May.

In general, according to folk superstitions, potatoes should be planted after the bird cherry blossoms. There are experienced people who manage to plant potatoes a little earlier than expected. But to do this, you need to thoroughly study all the habits and properties of potatoes, otherwise the tubers of a beginner who planted them in damp and cold soil will simply rot. Again, if you plant potatoes later, you risk getting a smaller harvest with reduced taste. This issue is especially relevant for sandy and sandy loam soils, as well as in the southern direction.

A little later, you can plant potatoes on soils of the northern direction, in lowlands - areas with soils of heavy granulometric compositions.

If you used the vernalization method, then you can plant the tubers even earlier - when the soil warms up to +5 ºС.

The planting depth is determined by the type of soil and variety.

For the northern and central regions, the depth of planting potatoes on light soils is 10-12 cm, heavy soils - 8-10 cm, peat soils - 6-7 cm, in the southern regions this figure increases to 14-16 cm, with the tops planted at 2-3 cm. see a the depth increases in this case due to fairly dry conditions. Therefore, tubers require normal access to water.

Plant density varies: higher on well-fertilized fertile soils and decreases for poor soils. Early varieties are planted thicker. If the tubers are large, then they need more space for germination. But small nodules and tops are suitable for more frequent planting.

450-500 tubers in the form of bushes can easily fit per 100 m2. More tops can be planted - 600-650 bushes. Even more seedlings can be planted - 700-750 bushes. When converted into kilograms, it turns out that per 100 m 2 of tubers there will be 20-25 kg of medium size, large ones - 30-35 kg, and tops - 15-20 kg.

Growing potatoes - fertilizer

The most acceptable medium for growing potatoes is pH 5.5-6.0. However, the slightly acidic reaction of potatoes tolerates very well. Strongly and moderately acidic soils can be limed a little - this will not harm the potatoes. But if you apply full doses, scab damage is guaranteed. For reference, we inform you that in non-chernozem zones, potatoes, like flax, are grown in the same crop rotation with crops that require a neutral environmental reaction. In such cases, the rate of lime is either 2/3 or 3/4.

In terms of nutrient consumption, potatoes occupy an intermediate position between grains (consume more) and root vegetables and sugar beets (consume less).

For every 100 centners of tubers obtained and their corresponding tops, 40-60 kg of nitrogen, 15-20 kg of phosphorus, 70-90 kg of potassium are removed.

Due to a weak root system, potatoes in the first part of the growing season consume a small amount of micro and macroelements from the soil. It is during this period that the crop responds most positively to the application of fertilizers. Early varieties absorb this nutrition faster.

Maximum absorption in early ripening varieties occurs during the periods of budding and flowering. For medium and late potato varieties, this corresponds to periods of tops growth and tuberization. You need to fertilize in precise doses - this will allow you to get excellent harvest during. And an excessive amount of fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones, will cause a delay in the formation of tubers and an excessive amount of tops. By the time of harvest, it is the tubers that contain all the potassium used, 90% of phosphorus and 80% of nitrogen.

Fertilizer efficiency different types varies on certain soils. Thus, on leached chernozems, sod-podzolic and podzolized soils, nitrogen fertilizers have the greatest effect, and phosphorus can sometimes activate growth more than potassium.

On chernozems, phosphorus is almost always the leader, and nitrogen is only in second place. Considering the complete absorption of potassium, it would be logical to assume that this particular nutrient should lead in the amount of fertilizer used in the system. The fact is that the need for potassium increases only when increased doses of other elements are added.

On peat and floodplain soils, on the contrary, the potassium component of nutrition is the leader. On sandy and sandy loam soils, nitrogen comes first, and then potassium.

In addition to mineral fertilizers, organic fertilizers are also applied to potatoes. It is optimal to choose manure. It can be used on any soil, but the greatest increases will be observed on sod-podzolic soils. On black soils southern regions the effect of this type of organic matter is sharply reduced.

On average, manure application rates are as follows:

• on chernozem 15-20 t/ha;
• on sod-podzolic soils 30-40 t/ha.

Together with manure, if possible, you can add peat-containing composts.

As with the cultivation of other crops, the largest yield increases will be observed when using both mineral and organic fertilizers, and above all – nitrogen and nitrogen-phosphorus.

If you apply about 30 t/ha of manure on well-cultivated soils, you can leave nitrogen or nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers from mineral fertilizers. If you don’t use organic matter, you will have to add minerals in higher doses.

Doses of mineral fertilizers are the highest for early varieties. If you plan to receive the finished product as early as possible, increase the rates of phosphorus applied.

For potatoes on soddy-podzolic soils, the main fertilizer application will be 20-30 t/ha of manure, 80-120 kg of nitrogen, 80-100 kg of phosphorus, 120-160 kg of potassium. When sowing, you can add 20 kg of active substance nitrogen and phosphorus per hectare.

On chernozems there will be a similar amount of organic matter, nitrogen 100-120 kg, phosphorus 60-80, and potassium 100-120. When sowing, the amount of phosphorus and nitrogen is also 20 kg/ha.

When planting, fertilizers are applied directly into the holes. Most often it is superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. You can also use complex ones at the rate of 20-30 kg of active ingredient NPK per hectare.

Transfer part of the nitrogen and potassium into fertilizing only on light sandy and sandy loam soils. About a third or a quarter is applied in this way in the spring. On other soils, potatoes are fed with organic matter, bird droppings, and at the same time incorporated into the rows.

If we talk about specific types mineral fertilizers, any nitrogen fertilizers are suitable for potatoes. On acidic soils, we use superphosphate and phosphate rock. Of the potassium ones, chloride ones can slightly reduce the starch content in products.

There is another method of fertilizing potatoes that cannot be ignored. This is the use of green manure. Lupine, peas and some other legumes are plowed into the soil for potatoes. This method will be most effective on light soils.

Growing potatoes - caring for crops

Before seedlings begin to emerge, you need to loosen the soil twice. In addition to giving the desired structure, this operation will destroy unwanted vegetation.

It is important to plant potatoes according to temperature conditions culture. In case of severe frosts, all shoots will die. New ones will grow in their place over time. But, naturally, the yield will drop significantly. The best option for seedlings – +7-8 ºС. If the temperature drops further, the bush part stops growing. For the bush part and tubers, the ideal temperature will be +17 ºС. When temperature indicators deviate, both downward and upward, it leads to a slowdown in the formation of tubers, and in the heat this process stops completely.

It is quite natural that the normal process of plant growth and development requires a certain amount of moisture. It can be preserved agrotechnically by performing inter-row cultivation and hilling. Watering is needed when the weather is dry during the period of tuber formation. But you should not over-moisten the soil - very quickly all the seed material can simply rot.

Watering is most important in the second half of the growing season. For one part of potato dry matter there are as many as 400-600 parts of water. Moreover, this norm is for the regions of the center; in the south it is even higher. During the growing season, one plant evaporates approximately 70 liters of water. But, if the weather meets all the requirements, there is no need to water. You can replace this procedure with regular loosening.

Growing potatoes - watering

What is the best way to water potatoes? Optimal time day - evening. A minimum of 3 liters of water is consumed per bush. You can water both at the roots and along the furrows. Use water that has been settled and heated under the sun.

Developed tops, on which flowers have already appeared, are watered during periods of lack of rain. Using artificial irrigation, you will double your harvest. At the same time, the water consumption per bush will be approximately 3-5 liters.

Potatoes should be planted in unshaded areas. When planting vernalized tubers, seedlings appear on days 18-22, and the rest - on days 6-10.

Before seedlings emerge, you need to harrow the soil. The first time this is done 5 days after planting, and then at intervals of one week. This is necessary, first of all, for loamy soils. And so, repeated harrowing is carried out after precipitation, preventing the appearance of a soil crust. Moreover, you need to walk the tool over the soil several times in one go.

Growing potatoes - inter-row cultivation

Inter-row processing carried out from the moment the tops close (when the height of the bushes reaches 12-15 cm). The soil is loosened, which allows pruning root systems weeds, improves aeration and moisture exchange. There must be at least three such loosenings. The depth of the operation is no more than 6-8 cm; you should not turn the layer over, as you risk covering the bottom of the stems. Loosening to a greater depth is permissible when the soil is waterlogged. The intervals between such operations are 2 weeks.

The width of potato rows is 70-90 cm. If you are the owner of a large agricultural company, then the width can even reach 140 cm due to the huge volume of production. Wide row spacing will ensure the preservation of crops during periods of rain and drought.

Growing potatoes - hilling

A very important technological component of potato crop care is. Hilling up potatoes means covering well-developed bushes with soil. It is advisable to do this several times during the potato growing period. The first time they sprinkle no more than 12 cm, and the second time no more than 20 cm. Hilling should be done after rain or watering. The stem is thus sprinkled on all sides. This is done with a hoe or hiller. If the summer turns out to be dry, you can’t hill up, best alternative– loosening.

By the way, there is a misconception that if you pick flowers from potato plants, the level of starch and dry matter will increase. This is all complete nonsense, don't waste your precious time.

Growing potatoes - feeding

Don't forget about fertilizing. For potatoes there are usually three.

If the tops grow weakly, the stems are thin, the leaves are pale and weak, your potatoes need the first feeding. For 10 liters of water, take 1 tablespoon of urea. You can use organic matter: 0.5 liters of liquid mullein or bird droppings. Fertilize after rain or watering at a rate of half a liter per bush.

For supporters of folk remedies, there are unique herbal infusions. Finely chop 10 kg of nettle into a 100 liter barrel of water and leave for 6 days until complete fermentation. Before use, the mixture is mixed and the plants are watered at a rate of 1 liter per bush. By the way, you can add a bucket of humus to the nettles in the barrel. It will be even better this way.

The second feeding is carried out during the budding period. To speed up flowering, you can do the following: for 10 liters of water you need 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and 3 tablespoons of ash. You can do without potash fertilizer by simply adding a glass of ash to the water. Consumption is also 0.5 liters per plant.

The last feeding is the main one. It occurs at a time when all the potatoes have already bloomed. It activates rapid tuber formation. A bucket of water requires 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and a glass of chicken manure (can be replaced with mullein). Likewise, half a liter is spent per plant.

We highlight the most important things for you when growing potatoes:

• accelerated growth of tops will be provided by ½ teaspoon of urea or 200 g of plant humus per bush;
• to activate flowering, a solution of 1 tablespoon of ash, 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska, which can be replaced with ½ teaspoon of potassium sulfate, is suitable;
• For the fastest formation of tubers per bush, you need to use a solution of 1 tablespoon of superphosphate.

Growing potatoes - potato diseases and pests

Potatoes are no less susceptible than others to various diseases and damage from pests. , like many other crops, are mushrooms. These are late blight, Fusarium wilt, silver scab, powdery scab, Alternaria, ring rot, oospora, Phoma dry rot, and rhizoctonia. There are also viral pathogens, for example the potato V virus. If stored improperly, wet bacterial rot, darkening of the pulp, and suffocation of tubers develop on the product.

Predictably, the source of infection, first of all, is diseased tubers. Using healthy seed will provide the maximum level of protection against potato diseases. The main thing is to follow the correct technology for cultivating potatoes.

Vernalization in the spring will help to detect diseased material earlier and discard it. Such tubers will have thread-like sprouts.

Also, cutting tubers during planting can cause mass infection. After all, it is easy for a pathogen stored in the soil to infect a cut potato tuber, and a pathogen can also remain on the blade of a knife. It is better to treat the chopped nodules with a solution of 1% boric acid. This must be done within half an hour after cutting.

Dressing of planting material takes place only after culling and after the formation of sprouts from the eyes.

The culture should be returned to its original place no earlier than after 4 years. The best predecessors are legumes.

Potassium doses increased by 15% can reduce the number of patients with bacterial and some fungal plant diseases.

Fresh manure is applied exclusively under the predecessor, in contrast to humus, which is used directly under potatoes.

Don’t forget about controlling plant density. On average, depending on the characteristics of the variety, there should not be more than 70,000 plants per hectare. The minimum quantity is 50,000.

When diseased potatoes are discovered, such bushes are immediately completely removed and destroyed. In some cases they are used as animal feed.

The seed must be handled very carefully. If tubers are damaged, in addition to obvious field diseases, they can also become diseased in storage, where crop losses can reach catastrophic proportions.

By the way, be sure to remove all tops and other plant debris.

Also, when growing potatoes, it is necessary to use fungicides and resistant varieties and hybrids - this will help reduce disease damage and thus increase the yield.

The most famous potato pest was and is. , nematodes, potato moth and potato cutworm are not far behind in this regard, to our deepest regret.

Beetles, butterflies and slugs damage generative organs, tubers, stems, and leaf apparatus. They overwinter in the soil on plant debris. In order to avoid the massive spread of potato pests, agrotechnical operations should also be followed, weeds and plant residues should be removed from the field. Prevent the slightest spread of quarantine objects. Use varieties zoned specifically for your growing region (this also applies to diseases).

Control of irrigation in the shade, correct and timely technical, chemical and biological treatment of the soil - all this will help you preserve 100% of the harvest without incurring extra costs.

Growing Potatoes - Harvesting

3 weeks before the start of potato harvesting, you need to dig in the tops. Because of this, it will dry out, and the outflow of starch from the green mass into the tubers will increase, which will certainly lead to their speedy ripening. Well, of course, digging must be done extremely carefully.

Already 10 days before harvesting, all tops are cut off and removed from the potato growing area. This, by the way, is the Dutch way of harvesting potatoes. It is very effective - you will not regret choosing this technology.

During the potato harvest, the bushes are carefully dug up without damaging the tubers.

How to plant potatoes with a tractor video

At first, potatoes spread slowly in Europe and were not widely trusted; they were grown only as an unusual novelty. In some circles, potatoes even have a strange reputation as a vegetable that is unclean, unhealthy, primitive and even... disgusting. However, other people have recognized the potato as a healing plant that can cure many diseases (from diarrhea to tuberculosis). Of course, now we can laugh at such ideas as much as we like, but potatoes went through such a difficult path to finally receive their true recognition in Europe in the 17th century. European monarchs began to popularize potatoes in their territories as a valuable vegetable crop, capable of feeding the masses.
Potatoes are traditionally grown in potato-vegetable crop rotations. Vegetable crops are good predecessors for it, except for table beets, since these crops have the same serious storage disease - fomoz. IN last years The area under potatoes is sharply increasing and producers are looking for new areas. As a rule, these are fields after grain crops or fallow lands. Grains are good precursors for potatoes. Fields after them, subject to compliance necessary technology have a low infectious load and are fairly free from weeds, including malicious ones.
The basis of potato cultivation technology is a set of agrotechnical techniques. To cultivate the soil, milling implements with active working bodies are used; the soil becomes very loose. They always observe technological discipline, that is, all the techniques provided for by agricultural technology are carried out with high quality and on time.
To place potatoes, select areas with a high agricultural background and always use crop rotation; return them to their original place no earlier than after 3-4 years. At the same time, the soil is cleared of pathogens and many fungal and bacterial diseases. The quality of planting material is the basis of technology. Only healthy ones are grown viral infection and other diseases of certified seed potatoes of productive varieties. It is very important to correctly calculate the density of planting potatoes and the subsequent stem stand. To obtain good standard seed material, the planting is thickened so that per 1 square meter. at least 30 stems developed. Pre-planting soil cultivation and plant care should create conditions for the rapid development of the bush and root system, especially in the first growing season. Great importance also has row spacing. Potatoes are planted with row spacing of 75 cm. Unfortunately, due to saving land, narrow (40-50 cm) row spacing can be seen in our plantings; this makes hilling with loose soil difficult; developing roots are cut off. As a result, plants lag behind in growth and development.
For this purpose, in our time, in addition to new planting technologies, they use mineral fertilizer to improve the quality, quantity of tubers and their keeping quality.
The LLC AgroPlus-Stavropolye company offers a mineral nutrition program for potatoes:
planting germination leaf growth tuberization end of flowering
Activities: Application of basic NPK fertilizers to the soil. Treatment of tubers before planting Raikat Start 200ml/t. Action: Application of calcium nitrate 100-200 kg/ha before hilling. Action: Foliar feeding Nutrivant universal 3 kg/ha. Action: Nutrivant Plus potato foliar application 3 kg/ha Action: Nutrivant Plus potato foliar application 3 kg/ha+ Kelik-K 500ml/ha+ Floron 250 ml/ha
Result: Treatment of tubers with Raikat Start together with disinfectants ensures vigorous germination and rapid development of a strong root system. Result: Root application of calcium nitrate before hilling ensures the supply of available calcium to the plant throughout the entire growing season. Strengthens cell walls and helps avoid bacterial rot. Result: Accelerates the growth of leaf apparatus and compensates for the lack of batteries. Result: This fertilizing improves the processes of tuber formation, increases the number of tubers even with unfavorable conditions. Result: The last foliar feeding is carried out in order to accelerate the outflow of assimilators into the tubers, and also improves the quality of the tubers and their keeping quality.

The article was prepared by:
specialist of the research and production department Balabanova O.V.
Shipilova O.I.

Potatoes are the most common crop in the world that grows in temperate climates. Suitable soil for planting tubers is sandy loam, peat and medium loam. If the site has heavy clay soil, podzolic or very wet soil, then such a place is not suitable for potatoes.

The most favorable crops, after which growing potatoes will bring a good harvest, are pumpkins, legumes, corn, cabbage, beets, and peas. It is not advisable to plant potatoes after tomatoes, sunflowers and other crops of the nightshade family. In addition, growing Dutch potatoes and other varieties at home are not recommended in one area for more than one year.

Before planting potatoes, it is necessary to prepare the soil; for this, all weeds and stumps are removed, the soil is dug up to a depth of 30 cm. It is advisable to enrich the soil with manure, complex fertilizers and nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In spring, ridges about 13 cm high are formed on the ground, which will help the ground warm up faster, creating good access to moisture and air exchange.

Foreign methods of growing potatoes on the plot

There are many ways to grow potatoes, but they all have one main principle - a certain distance between the bushes so that they can receive enough sunlight. Therefore, regardless of whether potatoes are grown in bags or in open ground, this vegetable needs light.

This is the only way its above-ground part and tubers will actively develop. Here are the most famous methods of growing potatoes that came to us from abroad. Also see the article: What green manure can be grown after potatoes? This technology was developed by Dr. Mittleider. He plants tubers in rows 50 cm wide. Between them there are quite wide passages, up to 1 meter wide. To ensure that the garden bed retains moisture and is free of weeds, earthen rollers are placed along the perimeter of the entire plot. If there is a sharp slope in the garden, then potatoes are planted in long boxes that are filled with fertile soil . According to the Mitlider method, regular watering and seasonal fertilizing are performed, without hilling. Thanks to The planting area is significantly reduced, and the yield increases and reaches up to 600 kg per hundred square meters.

The agricultural technology is as follows. Using this method, the planting area is divided into squares for each bush. The square has a roll of manure, which is mixed with soil. It is in it that potato tubers are planted, top down. After the tuber sprouts and stretches out, they bottom part sprinkle with earth, forming a small mound. However, the soil must be poured in such a way that each branch is in a reclining position. When young leaves form on the shoots, the soil is added again, this procedure is performed several times. As a result, a potato bush with several tiers is formed. If it is provided with water and fertilizers, it produces a huge harvest. On average, about 16 kg of potatoes are obtained from one bush.

Many Dutch potato growers, when breeding new varieties of this crop, pay special attention to soil aeration, that is, they use loosening the soil and plant potatoes directly in the raised ridges. It is also very important, when using this method, to follow the growing rules. This includes: fertilizing the soil, crop rotation, treating tops with pest repellents, choosing the best planting material. There should be a gap of about 70 cm between the ridges; potato bushes are planted 30 cm apart. In summer, the garden bed is watered three times. Using Dutch technology, about 2 kg of large potatoes are obtained from one bush, which have excellent taste and can be stored for a long time in winter.

Potatoes are a healthy, tasty food that fills the body with vitamins and beneficial microelements. The tubers of this vegetable contain as much potassium as many fish or meat products. The vegetable also contains a lot of starch, which is necessary for normal operation human body.

Even though there are various ways growing potatoes, their number increases every year. Since receiving good harvest growing potatoes requires a lot of effort and time, many gardeners refuse to cultivate this crop. However, after implementation scientific knowledge and practices, new varieties of vegetables and methods of growing them were developed, which made people's work easier.

If planting potatoes is done using a walk-behind tractor, then two methods are used - a hiller and a potato planter. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, but in any case, the distance between planting tubers should be at least 30 cm. Planting material is planted to a depth of 10-15 cm. In the first case, planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor involves the use of a hiller, which is attached to it. Before work, the grip of the hiller's wings must be increased so that the potatoes are positioned correctly in the furrows. For this, you can use the Neva walk-behind tractor, from which the wings and stop are removed, or the Salyut, which does not require such manipulations. Be sure to attach lug wheels to the walk-behind tractor, which will not cause problems during planting.

The track width is at least 60 cm; tubers are placed in the finished furrows at the same distance. When the work is completed, rubber wheels are put on the walk-behind tractor, but the track size remains the same. After this, the rows are filled with earth. If a large plot of land is being planted, then a mounted potato planter can be used for the work.
This design consists of a conveyor, a disc hiller, a furrower and a potato distributor. Therefore, in one pass along the ground you can plant a large number of root crops.

Even before planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor in the country, you can attach a plow to it. With its help, the first furrow is fixed and planting continues. However, in this case, the potatoes must be immediately thrown into the rows, since at the end of the row the walk-behind tractor turns and makes a new furrow, covering the previous row with soil. Some gardeners do not know how to plant potatoes using this technique, but in practice such work is quite simple.

Potatoes that will be used for planting are selected and germinated in advance.
Next, the tubers are laid in rows directly on the ground and covered with straw on top. Its layer is no more than 70 cm. In order for potatoes under straw to produce large yields, you can use additional measures. For example, a handful of earth is mixed with fertilizers and sprinkled on top. Manure or ash is used as fertilizing. This measure will help the tubers avoid many diseases. It is also advisable to sprinkle the straw on top with a thin layer of earth so that it does not fly away in strong winds.

Planting potatoes in straw has a lot of advantages, for example, the soil underneath is a little damp, as it holds moisture well. And the straw also emits carbon dioxide, which is necessary for potatoes. After decomposition, various microorganisms and worms actively multiply in the hay, which has a beneficial effect on the development of potato tubers. Another advantage of this planting is that it is a method without weeding and hilling the bushes. There will be fewer Colorado potato beetles on the surface of such soil.

Today, the technology of growing potatoes by seeds is new, but many gardeners are willing to use it. Before sowing the seeds, they are soaked in water for two days. It is also very useful to harden them.
For example, at night a plate with soaked seeds should be placed in the refrigerator, and left in the room during the day. In general, growing potatoes from seeds involves sowing them in boxes. To do this, in March or April they are filled with a nutrient mixture; for its preparation you need: peat, soil and fertilizers. Sprouted seeds are planted in rows of 5 cm between them and 10 cm between rows. A minimal layer of sand is poured into the box on top and compacted a little, watered well, or you can simply spray it.

Next, the boxes are covered with film or glass and placed in a warm place. If you have a greenhouse, then it will be the most ideal option. In just a week or two, the first shoots will appear. When they have 2-3 leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate pots, which must have a drainage hole. Potato seedlings need to be regularly watered and fed with ammonium nitrate. After the threat of frost has passed, potato seedlings are planted in open ground. To do this, dig holes 10 cm deep, place a little humus in them, and water generously. The stems of the seedlings are covered with earth in such a way that there are only three leaves on the surface. Many people don’t even know how to grow potatoes from seeds, but planting is very simple.

Planting potatoes in bags is considered the most interesting and unusual, because this method is new to many. However, abroad this method is known to many owners of large, suburban plots. But let’s try to figure out how to grow potatoes in bags.

This method is very simple, easy and accessible to everyone. For planting, any bags are used, for example, food bags or ordinary plastic bags. The next stage is soil preparation, for which soil and humus are used in equal quantities. Everything is mixed and placed in bags, but they need to be filled a quarter full. For example, if there are 10 buckets in a bag, then two are enough for planting. Potato tubers are placed in a bag of soil and sprinkled with a thin layer of soil. Before growing potatoes in bags, the root crops need to be sprouted and planted together with the shoots.

After planting, the soil is watered and the bags are placed in a sunny place. When the tubers sprout at least 7 cm, they are sprinkled with earth, leaving a little green part on the surface. After the sprouts have grown a little, they are again sprinkled with earth. This continues until most of the bag is filled. Harvest in late August or early September.

When potatoes are grown in bags, a person not only saves his energy, but also gets an excellent harvest. After all, it is used for planting potatoes without digging up the ground, which is very profitable and simple. If you read online about growing potatoes in bags, reviews say that you can harvest a bucket of crops from one bag. This method is most suitable for those who have a small plot and do not have free space for a potato plantation.

To obtain early harvest potatoes, you no longer need to have open soil. After all, now we plant potatoes directly in wooden boxes. Lay two layers of paper on its bottom and sprinkle with nutritious soil in a layer of no more than 7 cm. The planting mixture consists of sawdust and leaf humus. Next, the soil needs to be slightly moistened with a solution of ash and superphosphate. Tubers are placed on the prepared earthen bed, which should be checked in advance for rotting or damage.

In order for growing potatoes in boxes to produce a large harvest, they must be placed in a sunny place, but they should be covered from the sun. It is very important to spray the tubers regularly warm water, perfect option– filtered water and even melted water. After the potatoes sprout, they can be transplanted into prepared furrows in open ground. Before planting the planting material, the soil is fertilized with humus. After planting the potatoes, sprinkle a layer of soil and humus on top. In such conditions, the tubers grow very quickly and produce crops ahead of schedule.

Some gardeners do not know how to treat potatoes before planting, so they manually select each root crop, so that after planting the tubers do not disappear, they are treated with a solution with manganese.

Late blight is a disease that reduces vegetable yields, destroys plants and is stored in the soil for a long time. The main signs of late blight are brown spots, which are first present on the leaves, and then spread to the tubers and stems, quickly affecting the entire bush. The disease is visible to the naked eye, so treating potatoes for late blight becomes necessary, especially after the first symptoms appear. If you dig up diseased potato tubers, you will notice that its surface has acquired a lead-gray tint, it feels slimy and soft to the touch, and a rusty tint appears inside the fruit. And if there is warm, humid or rainy weather, the disease develops even faster. To combat this disease, a whole range of measures is used.

There are several methods to combat late blight, but they all tend to use standard drugs. The question immediately arises: how to treat potatoes before planting and how to determine the degree of damage? To prevent disease, tubers are treated before planting special drugs gentle action. If the bushes are already infected, then use stronger drugs that reduce the growth activity of the late blight fungus and completely destroy it. A lot of useful information in the article: Green manure for potatoes: how to prepare the soil for planting this crop?