Layout of chimney pipes. Chimney for a wood-burning stove: rules for arrangement. Correct installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Correct installation chimney - necessary condition for the normal functioning of the fireplace, stove or boiler. This article specifies the basic installation rules and calculation principles used in the design and installation of chimneys.

The desire to build a house on your own arises, as a rule, from the need to save material resources, because the services of specialized enterprises are not cheap. However, the construction of a chimney requires a special approach: this matter cannot be done without the use of special knowledge. Therefore, let us recall the basic rules for creating effective smoke exhaust systems and the importance of observing them.

Chimney installation rules: what should a proper chimney be like?

Fuel consumption, the amount of thermal energy loss, fire safety and air quality in the heated room depend on how well the chimney functions. Therefore, its design and installation must be carried out in accordance with SNiP “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”, DBN V.2.5-20-2001 Appendix G “Discharge of combustion products” and other regulatory documents. Let's talk about what a properly designed and installed chimney- these are the basic rules for its creation.

The material from which it is made has a great influence on the characteristics of the channel for removing combustion products. In new buildings, as a rule, pipes made of stainless, acid-resistant steel containing molybdenum are installed. But for stoves and fireplaces that burn wood and coal, ceramic bricks are also quite suitable.

It is preferable that the cross-section of the chimney be a regular circle: this shape creates the least resistance to escaping smoke. The height and cross-section of the chimney are calculated in accordance with building codes, this will be discussed in more detail later.

The correct approach to the horizontal sections of the channel is important: they should not be longer than 1 m, otherwise soot will be deposited and the draft will weaken.

Connecting a heating unit to a chimney pipe often has to be done when the diameters in the connection area do not match. To solve the problem, use a reduction adapter. All joints are carefully sealed.

The pipes are joined in such a way that their extensions are directed upward. This will prevent condensate and resins from flowing down the outer wall of the pipe.

Brick chimney erected according to the project: the order of masonry must be prescribed for each layer. In this case, one should strive to obtain an internal surface with a minimum of roughness and achieve complete tightness.

An old brick chimney can be used with a new gas boiler only after the liner has been completed: an acid-resistant steel pipe is inserted into the middle of the channel, leaving a small gap.

Most smoke exhaust systems must be equipped with inspections for cleaning.

Thermal insulation of external pipes is mandatory: this will not only get rid of condensation, but will help to quickly warm up the pipe.

When the channel passes through the ceilings, it is necessary to take measures to isolate the heated parts from flammable materials.

The outer part of the pipe is securely fixed and protected from the wind. The upper part is protected from precipitation with weather vanes or deflectors. The exception is gas equipment: In this case, the installation of a protective cap is a violation.

What is an irregular chimney?

Correcting mistakes made during the construction of a chimney is very difficult and expensive, and sometimes even impossible without dismantling the old system. Here are examples of the most common errors and their consequences:

1. The use of materials not intended for the construction of chimneys. Thus, the use of brick is unacceptable for gas boilers: the acid contained in combustion products will destroy it within several years. Cannot also be used asbestos cement pipes: When heated they are destroyed. Plastic also cannot withstand high temperatures.
2. Errors in choosing the pipe diameter and calculating the height of the chimney can result in a lack of normal draft and low system efficiency.
3. Excessive loads on the base of the chimney can cause its destruction.
4. Poor thermal insulation- the cause of condensation and fire of nearby materials.

Chimney height: depending on the angle of the roof and the distance to the ridge

Ceramic bricks, previously used for the construction of chimney pipes, are increasingly being replaced by systems made from other materials. The most commonly used steel pipes are bare and insulated. In this case, the option without insulation can only be used for internal installation - in a specially constructed shaft. External installation of the pipe requires mandatory insulation, otherwise condensation will inevitably form on the internal surfaces.

In order to determine the height of the chimney for an industrially manufactured boiler, you should use the formula: h(m) = (∆p ⋅ Tp ⋅ Tn) / (3459 ⋅ (Tp - 1.1 ⋅ Tn)), Where ∆p(Pa) - static thrust, Tr- average temperature in the middle of the pipe (in Kelvin), TN— average outside air temperature. Temperature in the pipe (Tr) can be determined based on measurements at the boiler outlet and is indicated by the manufacturer in technical passport heating equipment. In this case, natural cooling per meter of chimney is taken into account: in a brick chimney - 1 degree, in an insulated steel chimney - 2 degrees, in a steel without insulation - 5 degrees. Outside temperature (Tn) should be summer: at this time the draft will always be weaker than in winter.

However, the results of calculating the height of the chimney in some cases need to be adjusted, but only in big side. The fact is that the house itself sometimes turns out to be higher than the obtained chimney height value. In this case, the rule that says:

• the chimney, located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge, must be at least 0.5 m higher than it;
• if it is located within 1.5-3.0 m from the ridge, then its top should not be lower than the ridge;
• at large distances from the chimney outlet to the ridge, the height of the pipe is chosen such that it is not lower than a line drawn from the top of the house down at an angle of 10 degrees.

Chimney height above roof

For solid fuel and gas boilers, the chimney height must be at least 5 m: usually, manufacturers indicate this parameter in the accompanying documentation. It should be remembered that tall pipe should be secured additionally using guy wires.

But that’s not all: if next to the house there is another, more high building, then the chimney must be installed higher than the roof of the neighboring building.

Cross-sectional area

The value of this parameter can be calculated by knowing the height of the chimney h(m) and the thermal load of the burner according to the formula: S = (K ⋅ Q) / (4.19 ⋅ √h), Where TO- empirical coefficient, numerically equal to 0.02-0.03, and Q(kJ/h) - device performance indicated in the passport, h(m)- chimney height.

If you act more simply, without formulas, then you should take as a basis the following values ​​for the cross-section of a smoke exhaust duct made of brick (the cross-section of round ducts should be exactly the same area):

• for a unit with a power of up to 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm;
• for power from 3.5 to 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm;
• for power from 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.

Significant excess of the calculated value leads to deterioration of traction and, as a consequence, to unstable operation of heating equipment. A smaller diameter threatens poor removal of carbon monoxide and other combustion products and even a complete cessation of this process.

Additional requirements for chimneys for stoves, fireplaces, solid fuel, gas boilers and geysers

Some rules not mentioned earlier that should be followed:

• application solid fuel stove requires mandatory compensation of exhaust ventilation with supply ventilation;
• chimney ducts can be located in external walls if they are constructed from non-combustible materials, but at the same time it is necessary to provide insulation from the outside to prevent the formation of condensation;
• for each stove (if they are located on different floors) a separate pipe is provided, but it is allowed to use one pipe for two stoves located on the same floor: at the junction of the pipes, cuts with a height of 1 m or more and a thickness of 12 cm are installed;
• smoke ducts made of bricks should be constructed with pockets for cleaning, which are closed with bricks laid on edge and covered with clay mortar (doors can be installed);
• if necessary, deviations of pipes from the vertical are allowed at an angle of up to 30° and the length of the section is not more than 1 m, while the cross-section of the channel must be the same;
• if the roof is made of flammable materials, a mesh spark arrester is installed in the upper part of the chimney;
• between chimneys made of brick or heat-resistant concrete and roof parts built from combustible materials, there should be equal to or more than 130 mm, for uninsulated ceramic pipes - 250 mm, for them with insulation - 130 mm;
• the top of the chimney for the fireplace is protected with a weather vane or fungus;
• two appliances operating on gas may be connected to a common duct for removing combustion products if these appliances are located no further than 750 mm from each other;
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney connected to the gas appliance should not be less than the cross-sectional area of ​​the gas outlet pipe of the appliance itself, and the upper part of the pipe is not covered with a canopy.

Information from regulatory documents establishing the rules for the design and installation of chimneys

Suitable for laying chimneys is frost-resistant clay brick. It is strictly prohibited to build channels from slag concrete and other similar materials.

To join gas appliances Connecting pipes made of galvanized or roofing steel with a thickness of 1 mm or more are suitable for chimneys. You can also use flexible corrugated metal pipes that come with the equipment. At the same time, it is important that connecting pipe had a vertical section, the length of which from the lower level of the pipe to the axis of the horizontal section of the channel should not be less than 0.5 m. If the ceiling height is less than 2.7 m, this distance can be reduced by half - for equipment equipped with draft stabilizers and up to 0.15 m - for devices without stabilizers. The total length of horizontal sections in newly built houses should not be more than 3 m; for old buildings 6 m is allowed. It is necessary to maintain a slight slope of the pipe towards the heating device.

Smoke exhaust ducts should not have more than three turns, and the radius of curvature should be equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is prohibited to route the chimney through residential premises.

How to care for a chimney

If the thickness of deposits on the inner surface of the pipe exceeds 2 mm, it’s time to start cleaning. You can get rid of dense dirt using a scraper and a stiff brush with a long folding handle: as you move deeper into the canal (work starts from the top), the length of the handle increases.

The combustion hole must be closed from below: this will prevent soot from entering the room. In addition, it is advisable to cover furniture with film and lock doors and windows. During operation, you can use chemical detergents, for example, “miracle logs,” which emit a special poisonous gas, from which carbon deposits lag behind the surface of the pipe.

There are also effective folk remedies. For example, it is sometimes recommended to heat the stove with aspen wood: this creates a high flame that burns deposits on the walls of the pipe. But this should be done carefully: a large number of soot may cause a fire. You can also burn potato peels: the steam that is generated is effective means against soot deposits.

Conclusion

The requirements set out in the article are mandatory. Otherwise, the chimney will be ineffective and even dangerous. This information will serve as a useful reminder for those who already have some experience working with chimneys. For those who do not know it, the material in the article should convince them of the need to take the details of the chimney creation process seriously. Don’t overestimate your capabilities: to avoid annoying mistakes, you should seek help from professionals.

Dmitry Portyanoy, rmnt.ru

The technology for laying a brick chimney itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick oven, the pipe usually does not have complex internal channels. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the colossal importance of this section of the stove, since the quality of heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it. Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on developed and tested design schemes.

When erecting a chimney, you should remember that the evenness of the internal walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the external masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the stove depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, and the channel becomes overgrown much slower.

What types of brick chimneys are there?

Chimneys of brick stoves may have different types, depending on the location of their installation, the design of the furnace, and also on how many heating devices will be connected to the pipe. Thus, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: mounted, root and wall.

• Mounted chimneys . The most widely used designs are mounted pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not take up any space. additional area indoors, but are simply a vertical extension of the stove.

They are erected on top of the last one, covering the furnace brick row, around the left hole. The pipe is then passed through attic floor, attic, rafter system and rises above the roof.

• Root chimneys . This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove, or several heating devices located on one or even several floors.

In addition to metal ones, brick ovens can also be connected to such a pipe. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in adjacent rooms. For example, for a kitchen you need a stove with hob, and for next room- heating only. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a main chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heating devices are connected. Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to very accurately calculate the size of the internal chimney channel, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously. The answer to the question why may be different.

• Wall chimneys they are built near the main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of a building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is located outside the residential premises, without occupying their space. For example, on the first floor of a house a fireplace can be built and connected to a wall chimney (there the pipe will be more similar in structure to a mounted one), and on the second floor a smoke exhaust pipe of a metal stove can be cut in (the same as in the version with a root pipe).

The disadvantages of this chimney option are the considerable cost of the project and the labor intensity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material. Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise winter period, with temperature changes, condensation will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce operating efficiency heating device. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the area inside the premises and route the pipe along interior wall Houses.

Parameters of brick chimneys

Main sections of a brick chimney

A brick chimney is divided into sections that have their own purpose and are named differently. These features must be clarified immediately so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the pipe construction work.

1 – Pipe head. When laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are moved to the outside to create a kind of “canopy”, as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the pipe from precipitation.

2 – The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter throughout its entire height, without protrusions, expansions or narrowings.

3 – “Otter” has more complex circuit masonry, since it has a protective function. Firstly, the “otter” masonry hanging over the gap formed at the junction roofing material and the walls of the pipe, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of waterproofing material. Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the point of passage through roof covering due to the increased thickness it is created required level thermal insulation.

4 – A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted at the bottom of the otter, forms a kind of ebb that covers the joint brick wall pipes and roofing material.

5 – “Fluff” - this is the expanded part of the pipe, located in the area where it passes through the attic floor. The walls of the “fluff”, like the “otters”, are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and their overheating must not be allowed.

6 – Roof covering design.

7 - The riser is a straight section of pipe that has smooth masonry along its entire height and is located in the attic space from the “fluff” to the “otter”.

8 – Attic floor.

9 – An umbrella cap is often attached to the top of the head, which will protect the internal channel of the chimney from water and debris getting into it.

You might be interested in information about what it is

The main function of the chimney is effective removal combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere. To do this, the chimney pipe is connected to numerous channels located in furnace design, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then when operating the heating device, good draft should be created inside the ducts, which will facilitate the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the heat generated by it literally flying out of the furnace “down the chimney”. In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Chimney channel section

To select the correct parameters for the cross-section of the chimney channel, you need to take into account the power of the stove, as well as the size of the combustion chamber. Smoke exhaust ducts will remain clean longer if their inner walls are made smooth, without protrusions or sagging of solution.

For this reason, during brick laying, excess material protruded in the seams. masonry mortar it is necessary to clean not only from the outer, but also from the inner walls. Some owners of houses equipped with fireplaces or stoves use another way to achieve smooth channel walls - they install inside a brick chimney ceramic pipe called a tab.

The advantage of this design is not only that the insert has absolutely smooth inner walls. It is round in cross-section, that is, it has no corners, which means that smoke flows will not encounter obstacles in their path and will not create unnecessary turbulence and the effect of “ reverse thrust».

On the right, the illustration shows the “ideal” movement of the flow of hot gases that are in the pipe round section twist into the correct spiral and do not meet resistance.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that chimneys with large widths, which are still installed in old houses, often have poor traction. This occurs due to the fact that the air heated in the furnace large space inside the pipe, it cools quickly, which leads to the formation of condensation, which contributes to a decrease in draft, as well as smoke in the premises, and the rapid overgrowing of the channel with soot. To heat a stove with such a chimney pipe design, you will need to use too much fuel. Therefore, it would be most rational to correct them by dismantling the wide upper part of the chimney, then narrowing the shaft and installing a round or square with rounded corners, ceramic, metal or asbestos insert into it.

Now from the form - to linear parameters. The size of the internal cross-section of the chimney duct is one of the most important characteristics, since the efficiency of the furnace directly depends on this. The correct ratio of the power of the heating device and the cross-sectional dimensions of the pipe must be observed. Another guideline for determining the correct size of the channel can be the opening of the blower door - the cross-section of the pipe in any case should not be smaller than the blower hole.

The cross-section of the chimney shaft, relative to the size of the combustion chamber window, can be determined as follows. For fireplaces with an open firebox, the chimney opening size is on average 1:10. However, depending on the cross-sectional shape and height of the pipe, this indicator may vary in one direction or another. Approximate values ​​of the channel cross-sectional area (in percent) are given in the table below.

Ratiof/F in % (f – cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney channel;F – combustion chamber window area)

It is clear that in addition to the size of the firebox window, it is also necessary to take into account the reasonable height of the pipe - for example, a huge 10-meter pipe on the roof of a small, squat country house would look completely ridiculous.

The calculation itself is simple. According to the table, based on the height of the pipe and the shape of its internal channel, it is determined optimal ratio f/F. Then, based on the area of ​​the combustion window, it will not be difficult to determine the area of ​​the chimney channel. Well, then, using geometric formulas, all that remains is to reduce the resulting value to linear dimensions - the diameter for a round pipe or the length of the sides for a rectangle.

This calculation algorithm is implemented in the calculator below.

There is not a single stove without a chimney. The removal of carbon monoxide and smoke from the firebox is a necessary condition for the proper operation of the stove. What should the pipe be made of and how to arrange it so that it lasts for a long time and does not create additional problems? An experienced stove maker will answer without hesitation - from the same material as the stove itself. This is due to the fact that various materials the coefficient of thermal expansion is different. And if brick and metal are heated at the same time during the fire, then a gap will form at the point of their connection over time. Smoke begins to leak through the gap, this disrupts the smooth operation of the stove, and also poses a serious threat to the life and health of household members. Therefore, if you want to build a chimney for a brick stove, you must also do it from brick.

What is a brick chimney and where is it used?

Chimneys are used to remove gaseous combustion products in stoves, fireplaces and heating boilers. Under the influence of draft, smoke, carbon monoxide and soot are carried from the firebox into the chimney and discharged outside. As they move, they cool down, giving off heat to the walls of the chimney.

To remove combustion products from a brick stove, you need to build a chimney from the same material, i.e. brick

Unlike metal pipes, brick has:

But a brick chimney also has a rather significant disadvantage. IN country houses And country cottages It is not possible to fold cylindrical pipes, which are ideal for the passage of hot gases. The internal cross-section of a square or rectangular shape creates obstacles for the flow of smoke. As a result of this, on internal walls A layer of soot quickly forms, which reduces traction. Accordingly, they have to be cleaned more often than metal ones.

Chimney pipe design and operating principle

The classic chimney design is a vertical tower, inside of which there is a through hole connecting the furnace firebox with open space outside the house. According to the laws of physics, air pressure decreases with distance from the earth's surface. As a result, a draft arises inside the pipe - the desire of the air mass to move from bottom to top. If the air access from below is blocked, the draft disappears. Therefore, a smoke damper or view must be installed in the chimney, with the help of which it is possible to regulate the draft.

Using the damper, you can regulate the size of the smoke channel, and therefore the draft

Since the pipe is operated in residential buildings, it should not pose a fire hazard, therefore the masonry is carried out taking into account maximum protection from possible fire. Among stove makers, a certain terminology has been established that reflects the structure and functional purpose individual elements pipes.

In some cases it is practiced combined design pipes. Brickwork ends in the attic and then a metal or asbestos pipe overlooking the roof. In this case, there is no need for an otter, neck and head, which significantly saves time and money. At the same time, we must not forget that the area cross section the metal pipe should not differ from the cross-section of the brick pipe in a smaller direction. The combination of pipes made of of stainless steel, embedded in an asbestos pipe.

In the upper part of the chimney, where the temperature of the flue gases is not so high, you can make a transition from a brick pipe to a metal one

In both cases, the top hole must be closed with an umbrella (or deflector), which will prevent direct hit rain and snow inside the pipe.

Calculation of main pipe parameters

All calculations for the chimney must be performed at the design stage of the stove. The project must be carried out by a qualified engineer or craftsman who is well versed in all the nuances of the furnace business. It is impossible to plan the dimensions of the pipe in isolation from the dimensions of the firebox and heat exchanger. Everything is interconnected and must correspond to one goal - the coordinated operation of the furnace equipment.

If, when building a fireplace, the “body” of the stove is missing, and the firebox is directly connected to the chimney, then the Russian stove additionally has heating ducts in the walls, and it is impossible not to make allowances for this. The presence of passages changes the draft and lengthens the path of the flue gases several times. Accordingly, the chimney must create greater vacuum so that the movement of gases is accelerated and soot does not settle inside the passage. A separate topic could be the calculation of chimney parameters in sauna stove. It is important here that the draft is not excessive, and that the burning fuel has time to transfer heat inside the steam room.

The stove maker’s task includes taking into account not only internal, but also external factors- the location of the pipe in relation to the roof, the characteristics of the local climate and even the influence of the landscape.

The chimney draft can be affected by nearby tall buildings and trees as well incorrect choice pipe height

For gas heating systems due to their increased fire hazard calculation of the chimney parameters is carried out by specialists who develop the boiler. The dimensions are indicated in the technical data sheet and are mandatory.

In private construction, where combustion is carried out mainly solid fuel(firewood, coal, peat or fuel briquettes), you can adhere to the following rules that will ensure correct work any oven:

• internal cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular chimney in stoves closed type should not exceed the cross-sectional area of ​​the blower;
• internal cross-sectional area of ​​pipes in furnaces open type and fireplaces is calculated in a ratio of 1:10 in relation to the firebox.

It is believed that if the chimney structure has rectangular shape, the ratio of the short side to the long side should be 1:2. At the same time, it is minimal permissible size channel cross-section - 14 x 14 cm.

The size of the brick chimney channel wall should not be less than 14 cm

An important factor is the height of the pipe. Correct calculation allows:

• optimize the operation of the chimney and achieve better efficiency indicators for heat transfer;
• provide safe operation heating device, eliminate the leakage of harmful gases due to weak draft;
• provide fire safety- if the draft is excessive, sparks and flames may fly out of the pipe.

In general, the height is determined in accordance with SNiP 2.04.05–91:

• the minimum distance from the grate to the top point of the chimney (excluding the protective umbrella) is 5 m;
• the optimal distance is 6 m.

Such parameters ensure stable draft, i.e. the design of the chimney allows you to create a pressure drop sufficient to operate the stove at any time of the year. But in each particular case it is also necessary to take into account:

There is such an unpleasant phenomenon as backdraft. This term refers to the movement of smoke in the chimney in the opposite direction - from the chimney duct into the room. There may be several reasons for this, but the main one is the incorrect position of the chimney. As a rule - underestimated.

An error in choosing the height of the chimney often leads to backdraft

Excess traction can always be eliminated by adjusting air flow in the ash pan and smoke valves. Insufficient traction is exacerbated in several ways:

1. Pipe extension.
2. Cleaning the inner surface of the chimney duct.
3. Installing a deflector.

The deflector not only increases draft, but also protects the chimney channel from moisture, debris and birds and bats settling in it.

According to experts, by installing a deflector on a chimney, draft can be increased by 15–20%

Video: how to calculate the height of the chimney

You will learn about which pipe is best to choose for a chimney, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of materials in our material:.

Making a brick chimney with your own hands

Knowing the features of chimney construction and having in hand finished project, you can begin to independently construct a smoke exhaust duct.

Materials and tools required for chimney construction

To build a chimney yourself, you will need the following tools:

• trowel and mason's hammer;
• hydraulic level, plumb line (or construction laser level);
• construction bucket for mixing mortar;
• building rule, jointing;
• electric mixer (you can use a regular drill with an attachment);
• measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler.

To build a chimney, standard tools from a mason's kit are required.

During the masonry process, you need to make smaller building elements from brick - brick plates, a quarter of a brick, a half, etc. An experienced mason copes with the task with one well-timed blow of a hammer. A novice stove maker who does not have such skills can use a grinder with a diamond blade. With its help, cutting of any required shape becomes easily accessible, although accompanied big amount dust.

Some stove makers successfully use a template made of wood or metal for masonry. The template allows you to strictly adhere to the dimensions, which is especially important for the internal hole of the pipe.

In addition, you will need materials:

• red brick (in no case white - silicate) solid, hollow, fireclay, clinker;
• cement mixture (can be ready-made or prepared independently from sand, cement and clay);
• a set of smoke valves or views;
• sheet metal or roofing.

Preparatory work before making a chimney

Before directly starting work on laying a brick pipe, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory work:

During operation, hands come into contact with chemically aggressive solutions; it is recommended to use protective gloves to protect them.

When performing work on the roof, it is necessary to observe personal safety measures and also use scaffolding and rope belay.

On construction site There should always be a first aid kit with first aid supplies for wounds and bleeding. Sometimes the chimney is not located in the center of the room, but is in contact with load-bearing wall. This situation is often observed during the construction of fireplaces. In this case, you can use the wall structure of the chimney. It is pre-installed during the construction of the main wall. It is appropriate to note here that among stove makers there is a common classification of chimneys according to design characteristics:

1. Brick overlays. Chimneys installed directly on the stove masonry.
2. Brick indigenous. Pipes located separately from the furnace, standing on separate foundation. They have the shape of a riser.
3. Prefabricated. Individual blocks made of refractory concrete that are stacked at the site where the chimney is installed.
4. Wall. Built into load-bearing wall, significantly save space and volume of premises. However, it should be taken into account that it is not advisable to install wall pipes in external walls. Contact with cold outside air sharply reduces the efficiency of such a chimney in terms of heat transfer.

IN wooden houses the junction of the pipe with the combustible elements of the building is accompanied by a thickening of 1–1.5 bricks. To avoid fire, joints are additionally laid with asbestos or felt sheets. The felt is pre-soaked in a liquid clay solution.

Step-by-step instructions for building a brick chimney

The construction of a chimney consists of laying bricks in strict accordance with the plan for the arrangement of material in each row - the order. This plan must be drawn up when preparing a project for the construction of a smoke exhaust duct.

Each row of chimney masonry has a strictly defined arrangement of bricks

We can only add that for the best bonding of bricks with mortar, it is recommended to adhere to the following installation settings:

1. The mortar is applied in a layer of 1.5–2 cm, the brick is wetted and coated with the mortar. After installing the masonry in place, the brick is pressed down so that the final thickness of the seam is 1 cm.

   

   When laying each brick, it is necessary to check its position horizontally and vertically, and also maintain a joint thickness of 1 cm

2. As the masonry progresses (after 5-6 rows), it is recommended to do mopping - grouting the seams between the bricks inside the chimney duct. Smooth inner surface will ensure good passage of exhaust gases and reduce the risk of soot deposits. Grouting can be done with a wet cloth.

   

   Internal seams are leveled and rubbed with mortar as the masonry progresses.

3. The installation of a smoke damper is usually carried out between the second and third rows of bricks. But this is not a strict rule - you can adjust the installation location depending on the situation. Immediately after installation, the valve is closed to cement mortar did not fall inside the oven.

   

   For each smoke channel a separate valve is installed

4. In the external masonry - on the roof - a mortar with increased strength and moisture resistance characteristics is used. To do this, the mixing proportion is changed, increasing the cement content (instead of 1/4, make 1/3). Moreover, the cement selected is grade M 500 or M 600. For the head, not a cement-sand composition, but a cement-clay composition is often used. It is made by adding 1 liter of cement to 10 liters of sand-clay mortar, which is used for laying the furnace.

   

   When using hollow bricks, the internal cavities are filled with cement mortar

5. It is important to keep the solution clean. It is unacceptable for debris, especially of organic origin, to get into it.
6. Straight sections of the chimney are laid out plumb. To do this, strong silk threads are pulled in each corner and aligned vertically. The right angle is controlled using a square every 4-5 rows.

   

   Control vertical position chimney walls conveniently using cords stretched in each of the four corners

Video: DIY chimney for a fireplace

Features of the operation of brick chimneys

After the construction of the chimney is completed and the pipe is successfully put into operation, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the features of use brick stove. In order for the heating unit to serve for a long time and without accidents, it is necessary to follow simple but important rules.

1. The main enemy of brick is sudden temperature changes. It is better to heat more often, but for short periods of time. It is not recommended to make more than 2 fuel loads per firebox. This is especially true for coal, the combustion temperature of which exceeds 1000 degrees.
2. Timely cleaning of the pipe from soot unlimitedly extends the service life of the chimney duct.
3. If cracks occur on the stove body and chimney in particular, measures should be taken immediately to eliminate them. Neglected cracks tend to progress quickly and pose a threat not only to the integrity of the brickwork, but also to human health. Carbon monoxide, which is colorless and odorless, but poisonous to all living things, penetrates into the living space through small cracks.
4. The slightest malfunction in the doors of the firebox or ash chamber (ash chamber) first significantly reduces the heat transfer of the stove, and then leads to an avalanche-like accumulation of soot on the chimney channels. If you find a door, view or valve that does not close tightly, you should immediately repair or replace it.
5. At least once a year it is necessary to carry out preventative maintenance on the furnace. It is best to do this at the end of summer, before the start of the heating season. A daily preventative procedure includes opening the blower door for 15–20 minutes. This simple action will allow you to briefly create maximum draft, which will pull the soot deposited on the walls into the external environment.
6. The use of damp firewood has an adverse effect on the cleanliness of smoke ducts, especially in winter time. It is more rational to use fuel briquettes, the humidity of which is much lower. Firewood should be prepared ahead of time - drying wood naturally is a long process (from a year to two).

Chimney cleaning and repair

To clean pipes, both traditional methods and modern ones based on technological progress are used.

From time immemorial, stove maintenance was carried out by people whose profession was called chimney sweep. Today, finding a professional chimney sweep is problematic. They were replaced by chemical agents, which, however, are also often called “Chimney Sweep”.

Finding a professional chimney sweep today is very difficult; this profession is a thing of the past.

Thus, a product called “Log Chimney Sweeper” has proven itself well. It contains salts copper sulfate and other active chemical compounds. Burning in the firebox, the vapors of these substances interact with carbon deposits deposited on the walls of the pipe. Under the influence of heat, the reaction continues for several weeks and leads to the fact that solid structure the soot crumbles and, falling back into the firebox, burns. According to manufacturers, using “miracle logs” twice a year allows you to completely remove soot from the pipe. The consequence of this is good traction and high percent heat transfer of the furnace.

Manufacturers of the product “Log Chimney Sweep” claim that its use twice a year allows you to completely clean the chimney of soot

Among the folk remedies we can note the following: effective ways prevention, such as burning salt or soda once every 2 months (about 0.5 kg per firebox). The powder is poured into the combustion chamber at the moment when the firewood is well lit and the temperature is at its maximum. After this, you need to close all the doors tightly, as the reaction can be quite violent.

Dry aspen firewood helps clean the chimney well. The fact is that aspen burns with a large release of heat, the flames are long and penetrate deeply into the passages.

If there is no aspen or soda, you can use potato peelings. To do this, you need to accumulate about half a bucket of potato peels. When burned in a firebox, the released substances bind the soot and cause it to burn to the end.

The combustion temperature of aspen wood reaches 800 degrees, so the soot on the walls of the chimney burns out

When performing work on installing chimneys, especially in the area of ​​installation of the neck, otter and cap, you should carefully observe safety standards. If you work carefully and follow necessary instructions and technology, a brick chimney can be built with your own hands.

The construction of a chimney, knowledge of the main advantages and disadvantages of different types of chimneys and materials for constructing pipes - this knowledge is necessary for novice home craftsmen before starting to install a stove in the house. The choice of design and materials determines the installation location and the set of tools and materials for the work.

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Furnace chimney device

Depending on the material for making the chimney, you will need to prepare and make different individual parts. The common ones are an air damper to regulate the amount of draft in the chimney and a protective canopy at the top of the pipe.

It is necessary to protect the internal channel from water or snow. The remaining details of different types of chimneys are radically different. Let's look at the main ones in more detail.

Brick chimney

Such chimneys are installed only for laying indoors, through the roof and floor slabs. It is not recommended to lay brick structures in multi-storey buildings.

Diagram of a brick chimney for a stove

Partitions on different floors can be shifted, and horizontal layers will have to be made, which is almost impossible to do on such structures. A brick chimney consists of several main parts:

• furnace neck. Is it square or rectangular design comes out of the furnace body and passes throughout the building. Several grooves are made in the lower part to clear the channels from debris and soot. A thin cavity is laid out above the furnace body for installing an air damper. With its help, the traction force (upward air flow) necessary for normal operation furnaces and boilers;
• at a certain distance from the floor slab, the mason begins to lay out the fluff of the pipe. Inner size remains unchanged, and from the outside they begin to push out the bricks by a third of the length of the brick. The outer size, at the widest point of the fluff, exceeds the inner minimum by 600-700 mm. On the 9th row, the neck of the pipe is laid out. This part allows you to lower the temperature of the exhaust gases and serves as a kind of compensator for the entire structure. The fluff is laid out in front of each floor slab;
• “Otter” - this part of the chimney is laid out before the pipe passes through the roof surface. To lay it you will need 7 rows. By 6 gradually increases outer size while maintaining the internal size, size 7 is reduced to the main one and the neck of the pipe is placed;
• The head is the last 2 rows of bricks, which are exposed outward, increasing the outer size by 60-70 mm. This design prevents precipitation from entering the chimney, but to completely block the channel, the installation of a protective visor or cap will be required.

Chimney made of sandwich pipes

For such a chimney several parts are used:

Chimney outlet diagrams

There are 2 main chimney laying schemes:

Schematic representation of the chimney outlet options:

Diagrams of chimney outlet options

There is no point in describing them in detail - these are topics for separate articles, which you can read below:

Which device option should I choose?

• If you need to install a chimney for a stove in an apartment on the 2nd-3rd floor, a clear solution to this problem is to lay pipes outside and lead them through the wall. In this option, we will not have to make possible horizontal sections, which make it difficult to clear soot from pipelines and reduce draft.
• For stoves or boilers running on gas, we reduce the cross-section of the internal plane. For solid fuel equipment this size should be significantly larger.

Basic Rules:

1. The minimum chimney diameter for wood-burning stoves is 115 mm. Coaxial pipelines installed outside cope with their task. External pipelines, like internal ones, should be covered under a layer of thermal insulation. But the best option for external installation of chimneys, this is the use of sandwich pipes.
2. The internal gasket is used when installing a brick chimney or when equipping a private household. In this option, the installation is carried out through the floor slabs and the roof structure. To thermally insulate a brick pipe in these places, they are covered with sheets of thermal insulation or special boxes are made, making an internal cavity for the passage of the pipe slightly larger than its dimensions.
3. Installation of steel sandwich pipes is carried out using mounting couplings and fittings. All rules and recommendations for installing chimneys are collected in SNiP 2.04.05 dated 1991. This document indicates methods for laying a chimney for a bathhouse, country house or apartment buildings. All necessary clearances, recommendations for the length and cross-section of pipes are given here.

Which chimney is better, brick or metal?

No one will give you a definite answer to this question. The main thing is the height and size of the chimney. Its minimum size is from 5 m. If you make it short, there is a high risk of backdraft formation and exhaust gases escaping into the room.

Regardless of the material, if it is warmer outside than indoors, the draft will become weaker or disappear altogether when the outdoor part heats up more than the air in the house.

It affects a brick or metal chimney and the level of draft in them. Negative influence even close standing trees or mountain slopes. The wind creates backwater, and the draft can decrease significantly.

Excessive air flow in the firebox will also not bring the stove under normal operating conditions. Such pressure can cause strong heating of furnace parts and their deformation. And the heat will simply be blown out of the firebox; it will not have time to heat the walls of the firebox.

Conclusion

Chimney materials do not have any influence on the performance of the heating system. But on brick pipes With rough surfaces, a layer of soot forms faster, and drops of condensate appear on the steel walls of poorly insulated pipelines.

Long breaks in operation have a detrimental effect on the condition of a brick kiln and have no effect on steel kilns. The main thing in this matter is the quality of materials and the correctness of calculations and installation of chimneys.

In order to make the correct chimney device, you must have detailed diagram of this building. Improper masonry can cause the accumulation of harmful toxic substances indoors. Such work must be carried out by a highly qualified specialist who knows everything about such a structure.

Correct level smoke draft ensures rapid removal of carbon monoxide from the living space. This structure is a kind of pencil case that removes caustic combustion products.

Several models of chimneys are presented in specialized departments. They differ in their structure and the material from which they are made. Our guide provides detailed instructions on how to make a chimney for a stove with your own hands. Recommendations from experienced specialists greatly facilitate the task.

Types of chimneys

Exhaust shafts through which harmful gases saturated with combustion products are removed are required not only for standard stoves, but also for fireplaces and gas boilers. Today, several types of chimneys are known. These include:

Straight streaming. This variety is considered a popular structure, which is most often used for arranging living space. The only drawback of such a chimney is rapid heat loss. In addition to toxic substances, most of the thermal energy evaporates here.

Straight flow pipes with jumpers. They retain most of the heat during the combustion process of materials. This design is quite often used in baths. Such a chimney long burning The oven requires constant cleaning. Ash quickly settles on the surface of the lintels, thereby preventing rapid elimination toxic substances.

Straight flow chimney with a labyrinth. This variety is different high heat transfer. Carbon monoxide pass through numerous jumpers. They quickly heat the walls of the chimney, thereby contributing to maximum heating of the room.

Kolpakovy. It is used for Russian stoves. The hot smoke quickly rises, where it gradually begins to cool. After this, it descends along the arch of the chimney masonry. The only drawback of such a structure is its uneven heating.

Modular. They are made from a metal alloy. They are intended for heating systems running on gas. Metal chimneys for stoves are able to cope with acidic compounds of methane combustion products. In this case, the brickwork will quickly collapse.

Chimney device

The effective operation of a chimney shaft directly depends on several criteria. For example, the section, height and material from which it is made.

What needs to be taken into account when constructing such a structure:

The size of the outlet of the heating device should be slightly smaller than the cross-section of the chimney duct. If the diameter is slightly larger, you will need an additional adapter that will regulate the smoke removal process.

Particular attention must be paid to the horizontal part of the structure. Warm air quickly moving upward. Soot and combustion products quickly begin to settle here.

Regulation of traction by reducing the length of these segments will help shorten this process. They must be less than one meter. In addition, it is necessary to provide a condensate trap and doors for cleaning the chimney.

For a sauna stove, it is best to use a vertical chimney. In some cases, it is possible to lay metal pipe. During the fixation process, it is recommended to maintain the correct angle of inclination. It should be no more than 2 meters.

Stages of creating a vertical chimney

To create a chimney shaft, you need to prepare the following tools and materials. For this you will need:

• first grade brick;
• construction composition;
• level;
• rope for guide;
• ladder;
• design diagram.

Creating a chimney includes the following steps:

The first layer is laid out from five bricks. The laying must be neat and even. Subsequent rows are made according to the same pattern.

When the required height is obtained, you can proceed to the construction of the edge. Each subsequent row adds 35 ml more. The result will be a stepped structure in the ceiling area.

After the pipe has reached the attic level, it begins to be laid according to the initial stage. The diameter of the hole should gradually decrease.

The final stage will be to remove the brick shaft beyond the roof. The photo of the chimney for the stove shows the entire working process.

Photo of chimneys for the stove