Five problems that will arise if the doorway is not prepared correctly. Preparing a doorway for installing an interior door Installing doorways

You have decided to change the interior doors in your apartment, you have already decided on the color, model, manufacturer and even the door store where you will order them. However, before starting installation work interior doors, there is very important stage on dismantling old ones and preparing doorways.

Dismantling the interior door:

1. Filming door leaf(A).
2. We remove door frames(B).
3. The space between the door frame and the doorway is usually filled with foam or other sealant that must be removed (B).
4. On lateral, vertical elements door frame We make cuts from top to bottom, at an angle to the wall (D).
5. We break out the sawn-off lower and then upper vertical parts of the door frame (D).
6. We break out the upper horizontal beam of the door frame, as well as the lower one, if present (E).
7. We clear the doorway of any remaining installation materials.

Preparing the doorway:

1. Depending on the size of the door leaf new door, necessary determine the size of the opening . For many doors Russian manufacturers(such as Volkhovets, Ulyanovsk doors, Varador, Ocean, Leader, OSB, Pokrovsky doors and others) the sizes presented in the following table are suitable:

(Attention! Measurements of the height of the doorway are made from the finished floor, that is, from the already laid flooring!)

2. Eliminating shortcomings doorway. If during dismantling old door The doorway has been damaged and needs to be restored and plastered. It is important to take into account the following features:

Height (H) the doorway should be the same across the entire width: the floor should not have differences, and the upper part of the opening should be horizontal and parallel to the floor.

· Width (W) doorway should be the same along the entire length: the left and right side parts of the opening should be parallel to each other, and at the junction with the floor and the upper part of the opening they should form a right angle equal to 90 degrees.

Thickness (T) The walls should be the same throughout the opening, without narrowing or widening.

By dismantling the door and preparing the doorway on your own, you can save some money. But in order for the new door to be installed correctly and please you with its appearance long years, it is necessary to produce very high quality preparatory work. Therefore, we recommend that you carry out dismantling work by specialists Tiffani company, Moreover, our employees have extensive experience in this area and have all the tools necessary for the work.

Trust the experts, save your time, because it is known that time is also money.

Home renovations will look unfinished without installing an interior element such as doors. They protect the living space from outside negative factors, promote warmth and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Common at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, and have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and jewelry precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite possible for anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

• Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
• Preparing the opening for installation of a new door.
• Installing hinges and locks on the door leaf.
• Door frame assembly.
• Installation of additional elements.
• Fastening the door frame in doorway.
• Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
• Fixation of the structure using polyurethane foam.
• Fastening of fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

• hammer;
• chisels 16 and 20 mm;
• roulette;
• crowbar;
• level;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• wood hacksaw with fine teeth;
• miter box;
• drill and hammer drill;
• if possible, a milling machine, a circular saw.

Materials for door installation:

• door leaf and door frame;
• door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
• polyurethane foam;
• wedges;
• nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before installing the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we dismantle it. To do this, using a crowbar, avoiding strong and sudden movements, first remove the platbands. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. Using the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame; to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses the door frame was cemented. And to remove it, you will have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate door installation, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. To complete the preparation, we clear the doorway of construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, you can immediately begin measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, purchasing

To purchase the right door, you will need the height and width dimensions, as well as the dimensions of the doorway slopes. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and select smallest size.

We lay the flooring for correct installation boxes

Important! When taking dimensions, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install doors after laying the floor covering; if this has not yet been installed, then the dimensions should include the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door. For a more visual measurement, you can place parts of the flooring in the doorway. This is necessary to know the exact level of the floor; the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and plastered, you can order the doors. As a rule, doors have standard sizes, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the size of the doorway.

To choose the right the right doors, you need to know their types and intended purpose. For installation in a house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - lining and internal filling. The strength structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and inner space is filled in.

There are several door designs - solid, paneled and smooth.

Smooth doors, they are also panel boards, can be made with outer layer made of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and cladding method. The most practical and affordable are doors covered with laminate. Painted doors can be either cheap or expensive. It all depends on the type of material and painting method. The most expensive are doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors stand out for their open design and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from solid wood valuable species tree or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most accessible ones are made from soft types of wood, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from valuable wood. This affects primarily their price and weight; they are quite high. The doors are coated with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the necessary doors and received them, we proceed to step-by-step installation doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, trim, door frame, extensions, and fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not cut in, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparing places for attaching the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for ease of cutting with a milling cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, you should mark and select with a milling cutter or chisel the place where the hinges and lock will be attached to the door leaf and the vertical post. To do this, we install the door leaf in vertical position on the wide side in special stands. To avoid damaging the canvas, inner side the stands are upholstered in fabric. We apply the lock and use a pencil to mark the location of its installation. To make it convenient to use the lock, install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, measure 200 mm from the bottom and top edges of the door. We attach the loops and mark the place for milling. By using hand cutter or chisels, we select the excess so that the hinges and lock lie flush. We put them back and use a drill to drill holes for the screws.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the lock tongue and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. We attach the hinges and drill holes for the screws.

Important! After cutting with a milling cutter or chisel, the places for the lock and hinges must be treated with varnish. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from the influence of moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and for interior doors two hinges will be enough.

Installing hinges and lock

When the locations for the lock and hinges have been selected with a milling cutter, you can begin installing them.

With loops things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

Mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to fit correctly, it is applied to the side of the door and the holes for the handles are marked as if using a stencil. shut-off valves and fastenings. Using a cutter or chisel, select the location for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and screw it on.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door frame. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

When starting to assemble the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical posts and trim them using a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to fit the size of the door leaf.

Since assembling the box requires a large amount of free space, the assembly process itself is carried out on the floor. To avoid accidentally damaging the door frame on the floor, we place two or three wooden slats along the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the posts. The connection points can be lightly tapped with a hammer to better connection, and using a screwdriver we fix the box by screwing the screws into corner connections.

Important! There are doors with a ready-made door frame. Installation of such doors is very simple. IN in this case the door frame is simply adjusted to the doorway and secured in it.

Fastening additional parts

If the door width is several centimeters smaller door slope, extras should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make the slopes, and chips and dirt will appear on them over time. Therefore, installing extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

As extensions, planks of the same color as the door, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm, are used. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges that coincide with the edges of the wall.

Installation of the accessory is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical trim strips to the height of the box, as well as the horizontal trim strip. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then install the trim strips into the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks themselves to the slope using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of a door frame in an opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We place the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each post and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination by lightly hitting the wedges. Now you can secure the box. To do this, use a drill or hammer drill to drill holes in the rack and wall. All that remains is to install the dowels and screw the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! It is better to make the wedges from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging the door leaf

After installing the frame, we begin hanging the door. First of all, we screw the loops onto the previously prepared places. For this purpose, they usually use so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a rod embedded in the hinge, the door leaf can be installed or removed simply by carefully lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design door frame does not allow the doors to be lifted; one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply attach them to the frame and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable pin, you need to remove the pin from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors suspended, and the second secures the permanent hinges using self-tapping screws or guides them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with polyurethane foam, thereby increasing the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and can be easily applied to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, you should protect the door frame from foam that accidentally gets on it. To protect the box, it is covered with film or masking tape. If foam does get on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and abrasions.

Polyurethane foam has the property of increasing in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between vertical posts or thick cardboard is placed between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Before you start filling the foam container, shake it thoroughly for a minute. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and outside the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

To ensure against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply polyurethane foam in two stages. During the first pass, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess polyurethane foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! If the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the tube of the polyurethane foam sprayer can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, to fill all the voids efficiently.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then free space we lay suitable material(wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create its own support. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of trim and door fittings

At the final stage of door installation, the installation of platbands is performed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same 45-degree trim for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can secure the platband using small nails or universal mounting adhesive.

Applying glue to the platband

Installing a platband on a door frame

The final stage of any overhaul in the apartment - replacement of interior doors. Interior doors, as a rule, are much cheaper than entrance doors, but for updating the interior or full shift design cannot do without replacing them. They are most often changed comprehensively, even if we're talking about about a small one- or two-room apartment.

Technology for installing interior doors. Video

Depending on what material the doors are made of and what their design is, the installation technology will also depend. Since the question of replacing interior doors has arisen, the choice between types of structures will be inevitable. The right interior door can save space in the apartment, if you give preference not to simple single-leaf swing doors, but to sliding ones, you can also consider installing an accordion door.

The most simple design without glass for interior doors is made from typesetting fabric. Most often, the canvas is made from coniferous species wood and almost all economy class doors are lined with wood-felt boards. Fiberboard can be either profiled or simple, depending on price category. The cheapest doors have textured surface for painting, and more expensive models will already be veneered.

Depending on the price category of the door, it can be equipped with a door frame, hinges and fittings. But most often, even in standard apartments panel houses, it takes a long time to adjust the door to the frame, since the nominal dimensions were not always observed, which is why, before you begin installing the door, you need to prepare the opening.

Preparing the room for installation

The floor of the room should already be finished, and the walls should be prepared for finishing; they should be plastered or puttied. The door frame must be installed after all wet Finishing work, otherwise it may lead or warp, especially in the lower part, which can cause unnecessary problems.

The door frame can be sold together with the door leaf, or maybe separately. In the case when the frame is purchased separately, it is very important to pay attention to the thickness of the door leaf and the condition of the racks from which the frame will be assembled. Curvature and cracks are not allowed, and the presence of knots on the elements of the door frame is also undesirable.

Good hinges and necessary tools

You can't ignore the loops. Despite the fact that the hinges on interior doors do not carry much load, it is better to choose detachable and more expensive models. Saving on hinges will add trouble in the future, and if the door is relatively heavy, then it is better to install not two, but three hinges. As a rule, those self-tapping screws that are sold complete with hinges are no good. They are disposable and made of low quality steel. It is better to immediately replace them with proven good self-tapping screws of a suitable configuration.

To install interior doors with your own hands you will need minimum set tool:

• construction level;
• drill or screwdriver;
• tape measure, ruler, square, marker;
• mounting construction foam;
• set of chisels or electric tool, replacing them;
• miter saw or miter box with hand saw for wood;
• plane or router.

Installation of the door block begins with marking the frame posts. Inner size the frames under the door should be 3-4 mm more sizes the door itself, and the distance from the bottom edge of the door to the floor must be at least 10 mm. The stand is marked, then sawed off at an angle of 45 degrees with a miter saw and hand hacksaw on wood. The assembly diagram is shown in the figure - self-tapping screws or wooden pins are used for assembly. The top strip of the door frame is also cut off according to the same principle - on the lock side and on the hinge side, the gaps should be 4-5 mm.

It is more convenient to embed the hinges and lock when the frame and door are still in your hands, so first you need to measure 20 cm from the top and 21 from the bottom along the edge of the door and along the inside of the post on which the hinges will be attached. The hinge is attached to two self-tapping screws temporarily on the door frame, after which it is traced along the contour with a pencil. The hinge can be removed and a chisel can be used to make a recess in the post. The depth should be such that the loop is completely hidden in thickness.

All that remains is to assemble the door frame and secure it in the doorway. As a rule, interior doors are reinforced with polyurethane foam, but for reliability it is advisable to fix the frame with large screws or anchors to the wall. The box is set strictly according to the level and is fixed temporarily using pieces of drywall, polystyrene foam, boards, after which the free space is filled with foam.

Self-tapping screws for fixing the box to the wall are best placed on the hinge pads and on the pad for fixing the lock. This way the screws will not be visible, and three points are enough for a strong fastening. You can hang the door and foam the space between the frame and the wall. After checking the functionality of the structure, the box is closed with platbands, which can be attached with glue or thin nails.

The structure is installed, all that remains is to lubricate the hinges and decide which lock will be needed for the door. Good luck with the renovation everyone!

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It is a frame structure that is attached to the wall, and inside which the door leaf is hung. More recently, 20-25 years ago, even the entrance doors were exclusively made of wood or plywood. In the 90s, metal entrance doors, and accordingly, their door frame is made of steel. About 10 years ago, aluminum and plastic, which are produced with ready-made box, from the same material.

Made from chipboard, MDF, plywood and even fiberboard, the frame, platbands and trims of such doors are made of solid wood, usually softwood, or MDF. Woodworking enterprises have launched the production of beams and panels made of laminated MDF.

The door base can be made from MDF - fibreboard medium density, made by hot pressing. Everything is made from this material necessary elements. All you have to do is adjust them to size. MDF is especially relevant for arched openings. Assembly from MDF is carried out in the same way as from ordinary wood, but working with this material is much easier. All parts are fastened together using glue or self-tapping screws.

Tools

To perform installation, you will need the following tools:

• tape measure to take measurements of the opening and parts,
• an ax or a large hammer,
• screwdriver or screwdriver,
• nail puller
• chisel,
• Bulgarian,
• level,
• Master OK,
• spatulas
• Bulgarian,
• jigsaw,
• chisel,
• miter box.

How to dismantle an old door?

Dismantling the old interior door is carried out in the following order:

• First, remove the fittings: handles, locks, latches.
• Inspect the hinges. Sometimes they are separate. If you can remove the canvas, remove it.
• For solid hinges, remove the screws. Unscrewing is done from bottom to top. Inexperienced craftsmen often make this mistake - first they unscrew the screws from above, and then they have to ask someone to hold the canvas. If you start from the bottom, then the door hangs until the very end on the top hinge, on the top screw.
• Place the door leaf to the side. Disconnect the hinges completely. Inspect the platbands, where they are fixed and in what way. Disconnect them. There will probably be fasteners for the accessories under the cash. These can be either nails or screws. Unscrew the self-tapping screws, and if there are nails, pry up the extensions with an axe. Unplug them from the box
• Find the places where the beams are attached to the wall and free the box from the fasteners. In old Soviet-type houses, it may not be secured with screws to the wall. Inspect it, if there are no nails or screws, try to knock it out of the opening.
• Clean the opening from excess pieces of plaster, boards, and putty. It's ready for you to work with.

How to install a new door in an old frame

During the renovation process, the following option is also possible: a new door in old box. If you intend to replace a damaged old door, then you do not need to dismantle the strong frame. You only need to remove the door by unscrewing the hinges. You can take measurements for a new door using the old door leaf. To prepare the doorway for installing a new leaf, inspect the frame and hinges. Pay attention to whether gaps have appeared between the boards and the beams of the main structure. You may have to remove the platbands. At the same time, check the fastening of the accessories. If the planks are nailed, knock them down and tighten an additional couple of screws. Put the trims back in place.

You can screw the door with old hinges, or you can install new ones. Then hammer wooden chips coated with glue into the old holes for the screws. Because the new hinges may partially coincide with the old holes, or the screws for them will be thinner. In any case, the choppers will seal the holes, and the hinge will not become loose under the weight of the door leaf.

You can. Inspect the lock (if there was one on the door). If you keep the old one, then when installing the lock, adjust the lock latch to the strike plate.

How to prepare a doorway for installing a frame?

Sometimes apartment owners, wanting to change the interior of the room, change the design of the interior doors. The expansion of the doorway is justified by the desire to install double-leaf swing or folding doors (book, accordion).

In houses with high ceilings, sometimes they increase the height of the doorway, change the shape of the opening, making the top semicircular or arched.

The methods of this work depend on the material from which it is made. interior wall. The easiest way to work is with brick or wooden walls.

But the doorway in brick wall it is structurally complex because it has more irregularities than other walls. This gives errors in measurements. And this must be taken into account when changing the size of the opening. The edges of the wall must be leveled by plastering, then installing the door big problems will not amount to.

To expand a doorway in a brick wall, it is enough to remove a row of whole bricks from the brickwork at the edge of the opening, level its line with half bricks and a cement-sand mixture. To do this, you will first need a chisel and a hammer, and then a level, trowel and spatulas.

You can widen the opening in a wooden wall using a circular saw or grinder.

It is much more difficult to widen the opening in reinforced concrete panel. In this case, you will have to arm yourself with a hammer drill and a grinder. The hammer drill will drill and beat out the 6-stone, and you will use a grinder to cut the metal rods of the frame. The edge of the opening at the expansion site must be leveled and plastered as much as possible.

Sometimes, doorways are unreasonably wide, which complicates the arrangement of furniture, and there is a desire to make it smaller. To reduce the opening by 8-12 cm, you can insert it between the wall and the frame thick timber, secure it long screws(by the way, the screws can be deepened into the timber up to 4 cm by drilling a hole for the head with a No. 8 drill), foam it and seal it with plaster. You will attach the box to the beam. Installing thick beams will allow you to reduce the opening to 24 cm. To reduce a brick doorway by 25 cm or more, you will need plasterboard, or bricks, cement and sand. Drywall can be used to reduce thin walls covered with a thick layer of plaster. In this case, the plaster must be knocked off the wall and the drywall must be overlapped. The added part of the wall also needs to be plastered and finished so that it merges with the main one.

How to install a frame in a doorway?

Preparing a doorway for installing an interior door begins with the frame. It is recommended to install it before the floor is laid (filled). The box consists of beams 7x4 cm in size connected by the letter P. This is if you do not intend to install a threshold. The assembly has a closed shape. It is necessary to correctly calculate the height of the threshold so that it is not below the floor level and is not too high. 3-4 cm is enough for him.

The frame and threshold parts must be made in such a way that a protrusion is embedded in the beams, preventing the door from overlapping and closing on the other side. Stops help increase the noise and heat insulation of doors.

The corners of the box and extensions should be sawed off on a miter box at an angle of 45° and fastened together with self-tapping screws, lubricating the cut with glue. The door frame can also be assembled using the tenoning method, since the frame is still a solid structure. The door assembly is performed on flat surface so that there are no distortions.

You need to install the box like this:

• so that it rests against the top edge of the opening. You may need to hammer in wedges to seal. Either at the top or at the bottom (if the bottom edge of the box is hidden under the floor). Cut off the excess wedges hammered on top so that they do not peek out and interfere with the installation of the extensions.
• From the outside, the box should be mounted in line with the wall.
• And at the same time, use a level to check the evenness of the box, and use a square to check that the corners are correct.

The door frame is fastened to the opening using self-tapping screws.

• Mark the points where the screws will be tightened;
• drill holes in the box with a No. 4 drill;
• Mark the location of each hole with a pencil on the wall;
• remove the box from the opening;
• drill Pobedit drill#6 holes in the wall and hammer in the nylon dowels.
• Reinstall and level the box so that drilled holes agreed. Drive the mounting wedges into place. Screw the box with self-tapping screws.

will create a large load on the fasteners with which you screw it to the wall.

If the wall thickness is more than 7 cm, then additional boards will be required - boards that will disguise the wall of the opening. They are attached later, when the box is installed; there is no need to connect them together in advance. But the upper edges of the racks and the top bar should also be sawed off at an angle of 45°

How to install and secure a door in a frame?

The box is exposed and secured. Now you need to hang the door. For this

• Insert the canvas into the box.

1. If you have a threshold, place three or four matches or dental sticks under it. This is necessary so that the door does not rest heavily on the threshold, and then you do not have to touch it.
2. If a threshold is not provided, then place planks or plywood 5-6 mm thick.
3. If you plan to lay carpet or linoleum within the door, then the door should be raised a centimeter.

The installation of interior doors must be carried out taking into account all the “ifs”, then it will close freely, without resting against the bars either on top or on the sides. The door should fit freely in the frame. On the sides and top the gap should be 2 mm, on the bottom - taking into account the “ifs” described above. Make sure all conditions are met. You can also insert matches between the frame and the doors. Everything is fine? If the door rests somewhere, mark it with a pencil - in this place you will have to work with a plane to remove the excess.

• Mark the loops. Attach the hinge and mark the height of the hinge on the frame and on the door at the same time with a pencil. Mark on the loops. Do the same with the bottom loop.
• Also mark with a pencil the location of locks, handles or latches. Now you can. The assembly of interior doors, fitting and fastening of fittings are carried out until the door leaf is secured in the frame. It is also better to paint and varnish it while it is not installed in the box and while there are no fittings on it. But let’s assume that you purchased a door that has already been finished.
• You can make a recess for recessing the fittings using a jigsaw, or manually using a hacksaw and chisel.
• Screw the hinges and other hardware to the door. Place the canvas against the box and start screwing the hinges.
• Check how your door opens and closes.

How to secure extensions and platbands

Extensions are installed if the opening is thicker than the frame. Their width should correspond to the distance from the box to the edge of the wall. Attaching the extensions to the main beams is done with self-tapping screws. For greater strength, the end of the extension can be lubricated with glue before tightening. The void between the opening wall and the extension must be foamed with polyurethane foam.

The width of the platbands should be such that on one side it is flush with the frame, and its other edge extends 1-1.5 cm onto the edge of the wall. This is the final stage of installing the box. They form a design element and therefore should look attractive. The trim should be installed before the baseboards are nailed down. Sawing should be done at an angle of 45 degrees. The fastening of cash should be done so that the fastening elements are not visible. These could be liquid nails.

Platbands can be

• Wooden,
• Plastic,
• From MDF.

The main condition when choosing cash is appearance and compliance with the design of the door or interior of the room.

During construction and apartment renovation Often there is a need to replace interior doors. Oddly enough, but this one is quite simple procedure raises many questions. To prevent the purchase of a door block from turning into a nervous breakdown for the homeowner, you need to follow certain rules related to generally accepted installation standards. Having read the issue in more detail, everyone will be able to avoid mistakes when purchasing and installing doors.

What is a doorway

A through hole in a wall or partition intended for passage and installation of doors is called a doorway. As a rule, the opening has the shape of a rectangle. Although sometimes there are square, arched and even round openings.

Photo gallery: types of doorways

Arched doorway with lighting will decorate any interior A doorway in the form of an arch visually expands the passage to the adjacent room The classic doorway has a rectangular shape The combination of a doorway with a bookcase serves good decision for space zoning

In any house or apartment there are at least three doors (entrance, kitchen and bathroom). Their maximum number is limited only by the size of the living space and the number of rooms. However, passages without doors are sometimes used. Curtains, blinds, and drapes can hang in them, but more often they are left free. Sometimes the opening is blocked by a sliding or sliding door.

In construction and repair practice, there are two options for installing doors:

• selecting the size of the door block to fit the existing opening;
• adjusting the doorway to the purchased door.

The first option is always preferable, since in this case the lengthy and labor-intensive processes associated with cement works. Fortunately for consumers, developers and door manufacturers have long accepted single standard in relation to doors and doorways. Thanks to this, you can always choose a ready-made door with dimensions suitable for a standard doorway.

Standard door opening dimensions

The vast majority of interior doors are manufactured in accordance with GOST 6629–88. This document regulates the dimensions of door blocks used in residential construction and is called “Internal wooden doors for residential and public buildings" Since today the variety of types of doors is extremely large, many experts note that the document is already outdated. However, manufacturers adhere to regulatory standards, if only because openings in houses built in Soviet times were made strictly according to these standard sizes.

According to GOST 6629–88, door leaves have two heights:

• 2300 mm;
• 2000 mm.

Door widths are defined in the following range:

• 600 mm;
• 700 mm;
• 800 mm;
• 900 mm;
• 1100 mm.

The apartments use interior doors with a width of 0.6–0.8 m, entrance doors with a width of 0.9 m and double doors with a total width of 1.1 m. Small doors with a width of 60 cm are installed in storage rooms and other utility rooms. Bathroom and toilet - 70 cm, kitchen - 80 cm.

The dimensions of door frames may vary depending on the material and model of the door block.

During the construction of standard apartment buildings To this day, the dimensions of doorways are set based on the specified GOST. In private construction, other options are possible, but here, too, most developers adhere to the given standards.

Rules for taking measurements

To accurately display the dimensions of the installation hole in the wall, three measurements are taken - height, width and depth. Professional measurers always draw a sketch showing the shape of the opening, its dimensions and other features (for example, wall material, the presence of adjacent corners, etc.) This is necessary not only for correct selection door block in size, but also to understand the installation method. In the opening wooden wall or partitions are fixed with self-tapping screws, in a concrete or brick wall - with anchor fasteners. For plasterboard partitions, a special installation method is provided. Plastic doors are installed on special brackets.

The doorway is measured in three directions - height, width and depth

In addition, you need to take into account the condition of the floor and walls. Usually doors are calculated and installed after finishing wall plane. But measurements can be made earlier, for example, if the door is ordered in advance. It is important to consider all factors here. Let's say the wall has not yet been plastered, which means that in the future its thickness will increase by 1–1.5 cm on each side. If you order a door block without taking this thickening into account, the frame will not fit into the doorway and you will end up having to redo either it or the wall.

The same goes for gender. Experienced measurers come only when the floor is completely ready, including the final finishing (tiles, linoleum, laminate, etc.). However, if the door is made according to individual order, and the calculation of its dimensions is done in advance; when determining the height of the door block, an allowance is made for the fact that the floor level will change.

If a standard door frame is installed during construction and redevelopment, the dimensions of the opening are adjusted to one or another standard size.

Today the so-called hidden doors, the dimensions of which may be non-standard. Often such a door is made from floor to ceiling height. In this case, when determining the vertical dimensions, one should take into account the fact that suspended structures(tension, slatted or plasterboard) reduce the ceiling level by 10–15 cm.

Hidden doors the full height of the room are installed in a specially prepared opening

If you need to replace one door with another, the task is simplified. It is necessary to accurately measure the three main parameters of the doorway - width, height and depth. But this can only be done after dismantling the old door or at least after removing the trim.

Measurements are taken with a construction tape or other precision instrument, for example, a laser ruler. Readings are recorded in millimeters.

A professional laser tape measure is used for quick and precise definition required sizes

Width

The width of the opening is the distance between the side (vertical) surfaces of the hole in the wall. Measurements are made in three points- top, bottom and in the middle, if they are the same, then the opening is correct, rectangular shape. If there are discrepancies of more than 10 mm, this must be noted on the drawing.

If the discrepancy in measurements is more than 10 mm, the minimum size is taken as a basis

Height

Height is the distance between the “clean” floor and the top horizontal crossbar. It is measured on both sides (right and left sides). Ideally, the readings should coincide with an error of no more than 1 cm.

When measuring the height of the opening, take into account that it should not exceed the size of the canvas by more than 50–60 mm

Thickness

This is the actual thickness of the wall. For an opening, the term “depth” is more often used. It is important to understand that the thickness of the door frame cannot exceed the depth of the opening. But it can (and should) be less. In this case, the discrepancy is compensated by additions, the width of which is calculated in advance in order to save material.

Features of measuring a doorway depending on the door design

All doors installed in residential buildings, are divided into two types:

• swing (hinged);
• sliding (with top suspension or floor guide).

Depending on the design, they are presented different requirements to prepare the doorway.

Swing doors are mounted directly inside the hole in the wall. Therefore it is important to comply exact dimensions opening. According to modern standards, the distance between the door frame and the walls should be within 2.5–3 cm along the entire perimeter (except for the threshold).

Even 30 years ago, when polyurethane foam was not yet used in construction, the technological gap between door block and the wall was filled with cement mortar. The requirements for the gap size were different. It was recommended to leave a gap of at least 50 mm so that the solution could easily enter it. Such doors stood well for the first 3–5 years, after which the mortar began to crumble and the door frame began to shake. The door constantly had to be repaired at certain intervals. Polyurethane foam has eliminated these shortcomings, so now it is customary to leave a gap of 25–30 mm between the frame and the wall.

In the case of sliding doors, everything is different. The suspension mechanism is installed on the wall, and the door leaf simply covers the opening. Accordingly, the requirements for the size of the opening are not so strict - the main thing is that the size of the hole in the wall does not exceed the size door leaf. Greater value has shape and quality finish. If in hinged doors the edges of the opening are covered with platbands and trims, then in sliding wall remains visible. Therefore it is important to endure correct form and the corners of the hole in the wall.

Opening sliding doors framed with platbands and extensions

The lining of the inside of the opening can be of two types:

• plaster (continuation of wall finishing);
• decorative panels made of fiberboard, MDF or plastic.

Finishing with plaster (or drywall) is performed before measuring the dimensions of the opening. The panels are installed after the door is installed, but when taking measurements, you need to take into account the thickness of the additional board.

Video: how to correctly measure the door opening

Preparing the opening for installing an interior door

In order to bring the opening into compliance with the standard, the following materials will be needed:

You will also need tools:

There are a few mandatory requirements to the doorway, which must be completed before taking measurements.

How to reduce or expand a doorway

Sometimes the opening needs to be increased or decreased. As a rule, changes are needed in cases where a door with different dimensions is installed in place of the old one.

To increase the dimensions of the doorway, a hammer drill is used. The operating procedure is as follows:

1. First they make the markings. New boundaries of the opening are drawn on the wall with a pencil or marker.
2. Then they carefully hollow out the wall to the desired shape. If the dimensions change by a small amount, you can do without a hammer drill by chipping concrete or masonry with a chisel and hammer. Sometimes interior walls made of foam blocks. In this case, the task is simplified - the blocks are easily sawed with a special hacksaw with a large tooth and a pobedite solder.

   Expanding a doorway in a concrete or brick wall is done using a hammer drill with a special attachment

3. After that inner surface the opening is plastered. To do this, cement mortar is diluted. Throw it onto the wall with a trowel and level it with a spatula.

   Leveling the plaster is done using a rule, a wide spatula or a flat wooden lath

When chiseling a wall, you must take precautions - use safety glasses and a respirator to protect your respiratory organs from contact with large quantity construction dust.

IN panel houses, made up of load-bearing structures, hammering walls with a hammer drill is strictly prohibited. The only exceptions are interior partitions, not bearing loads. But only a specialist can determine this.

Violation of this limitation may lead to a violation of the rigidity of the structure as a whole. For example, there are cases when chiseling a wall at one end of the house leads to cracking of double-glazed windows at the other end. This suggests that the deformation is transmitted throughout the building.

Reducing the size of the opening is carried out different ways depending on the wall material.

1. Use brickwork. Pick up building blocks required sizes and cement mortar lay out the wall to the specified marks. In practice, most often changes concern the width of the opening, the height remains unchanged. But if the height still needs to be reduced, then ready-made cast ones are used for this. reinforced concrete blocks or wooden crossbars. They are installed on bricks or deepened into the wall at a distance of at least 10–15 cm on each side.

   The opening is reduced using metal formwork and brickwork

2. Using drywall. To do this, install a frame from metal profiles and sheathed with one or two layers of gypsum fiber board. Such a build-upNamely only for sliding doors. Swing doors stay on thin layer“dry plaster” will not work.

   Using a plasterboard structure, a doorway of the required size is installed

3. Using wooden blocks. This option is applicable for houses from wood lumber. To do this, you need to select a beam of the same thickness as the wall and secure it firmly with long screws. If one block is not enough, it is allowed to use several boards, the thickness of which in total will give right size. Wood blocks must be fastened very carefully, because they will bear the entire load from the door frame and leaf.

Video: resizing a doorway

When independently measuring the dimensions of a doorway, extreme care and accuracy is required. Mistakes result in additional financial losses. But if you still don’t have confidence in your abilities, it’s better to call a measurer from the company supplying the doors. Today, most companies provide this service free of charge.