We propagate spirea using green cuttings. Green cuttings of spirea in spring and summer Cuttings of spirea in autumn

Shrubs belonging to the genus Spiraea (meadowsweet) bloom very beautifully, and that is why they are highly valued by landscape design masters. It's all about the uniqueness of the plant, which allows it to be used in different variations: planting in a flower bed, creating a hedge, for decorating borders, as well as rose gardens. There are many types of spirea (gray, Japanese), differing in the color and shape of the inflorescence, the height of the plant and the time when it blooms. Knowing the combination rules various types, you can amaze others with the visual effect. The flowers have a delicate aroma and are suitable for cutting.

You should know that spirea has a long flowering period. This is especially true for those species that bloom in summer.

Reproduction occurs by seeds or vegetatively: the bush is divided, layered and cuttings are taken.

The process of propagation using cuttings

The process of cuttings is considered to be one of the most productive methods of propagation of this plant. Even if you do not use special growth regulators, most types of spirea grow with an acceleration factor of 70%. And if you use the BCI for 16 hours, you can achieve 100%.

To prepare the accelerating substrate, you only need high-moor peat and sand (ratio 1:2 or 1:1).
The acceleration process can begin in the second half of summer. But experienced gardeners most often they begin breeding in the fall (September or October), since at this time labor costs are significantly reduced.

You need to start by selecting the strongest shoots among all the cuttings. Then they are cut into several parts so that 4-5 leaves fit along the entire cutting. Only the lowest of them is cut to the spine, and the rest are cut to half.

Before planting, they should be soaked for 2-3 hours. If your spirea is a difficult-to-root species, then these cuttings should be treated again in a special IBA solution (mix a liter of water with 1 mg of indolylbutyric acid). And just before planting, you need to apply a powdered stimulant to bottom part root formations. For this you can use “Kornevin”.

The cuttings should be placed in the substrate with an inclination of 45 degrees. Thus, the growth of the apical bud will stop, and this will stimulate the formation of roots.

For care, you need to regularly water the plants, and also spray the cuttings with water daily using a sprayer (if it is very hot, then several times a day). For large-scale cultivation, “artificial fog” is installed.

To create required level humidity, you need to make a special shelter for the cuttings using translucent material.

If cuttings are carried out in winter, then the procedure consists of the same steps, only the cuttings need to be planted in a special greenhouse, protecting them from the winter cold.

“Summer” cuttings need to be picked next year in the spring, and “winter” ones go to their place in the fall.

Spiraea is favorite plant many gardeners.

It has many types that can be easily combined with various ornamental shrubs, making any illuminated corner of your garden not only beautiful, but also spectacular.

Easy to care for, can be propagated by seeds, woody cuttings or division.

Any time of the year is suitable for this, except winter.

However, it is more convenient and best to do this in early September.

Propagation of spirea by seeds is only suitable for specific varieties (oak-leaved, Japanese and others), since the seeds of hybrids may not germinate or may change their specific properties of the hybrid.

If you do not know what species the plant you have chosen belongs to, then do a test sowing in the fall by throwing a handful of seeds into a pot and digging it into the garden bed so that in the spring you can easily find seedlings.

Propagation of spirea by seeds

Propagating spirea by seeds will not take much time or labor, everything is quick and easy. Thanks to this, you can get many plants at once. Seeds do not undergo stratification. Therefore, by collecting them at the end of summer, they will safely survive both until autumn sowing and until spring.

Spiraea seed pods are collected in July-August, before they have time to open and fall to the ground:

• Cut off the branches with seed pods and place them for two weeks of ripening (bring unripe tomatoes to full ripening).
• Then collect the spilled seeds and remove them before sowing. In autumn, spirea is propagated in October-November, in spring - in April.
• Pour soil into the box for sowing seeds (vermiculite with non-acidic peat in a ratio of 1:4).
• Distribute the seeds over the surface of the soil and dig into the garden bed. If the sowing is in spring, then first moisten the soil with a sprayer, cover with film and place in shadow side, so that spring wind I didn't freeze the seeds.
• When shoots appear, remove the film.

Conduct when they are 2 cm long (about 2-3 months after planting). For convenience, select them from the box in small bunches and separate them. If this is not done, the stronger plants will begin to crush the weaker ones. For picking, choose evening time. Before transplanting, pinch the long roots by 1/3 and plant them at a distance of 5-6 cm. Place the box under a shady tree, water regularly, transplant the young plants into the garden bed in the fall, and next year permanent place. When loosening, keep in mind that root system young spirea is shallow. For convenience, stick markers marked “spirea” into the ground, then you won’t have to remove them or dig them up. Flowering will begin no earlier than after 3 years.

Propagation of spirea by lignified cuttings

Cuttings are vegetative method reproduction, which preserves all varietal characteristics. Therefore, it is better to propagate spirea hybrids this way.

Already in September, they begin to root the woody spirea cuttings. This is convenient, they do not need to be watered or sprayed, all this will be done by snow in winter. With the onset of spring, the rooting process will begin.

To take spirea cuttings, select an annual shoot that grows strictly vertically upward. Cut it into cuttings, each of which should have 4-5 leaves. Cut off the lower leaves with petioles, and shorten the upper ones by half.

Pour the solution (1 ml of Epin per 2 liters of water) into the container and leave the cuttings to root for 10-12 hours.

Then dust each cut of the cutting with powdered Kornevin to improve root formation.

Pour wet river sand into the pot and plant the cuttings at an angle of 45ºC, to a depth of 2 cm.

Spray and cover with a glass cover.

Place the pot under a shady tree on a side protected from the wind.

Spray every 2-3 days.

With the onset of frost, dig the pot with the cuttings (without a cap), cover it with fallen leaves and place an upside-down box on top for storing vegetables. In the spring, the cuttings are planted in a garden bed for growing.

Reproduction of spirea by division

Spiraea are propagated by division at the age of 3-4 years. In older plants, a powerful, dense, tangled root system is formed, which is difficult to disassemble when digging.

Spirea can be divided in summer, autumn and spring. If dividing in the summer, then choose cloudier weather for this and it is advisable that it remains like this for a week (check the weather forecast for the coming days) after the divisions have rooted. The beginning of September is the best time to propagate spirea, when minimal care is required.

Dig up the bush, remove the soil, placing the plant in a bowl of water for 60 minutes. Take apart the roots. Use pruning shears to cut the bush into 2-3 parts so that each section has several powerful shoots and good roots. Shorten the roots so that after planting they begin intensive development.

Make a hole in the area, form a mound from the soil inside, place a division on it and lower the roots along it, trying to distribute them in a circle. Fill with soil and water. The following waterings are weekly in cloudy weather, every other day in hot weather.

Reproduction of spirea by layering

This propagation method will be used to obtain a very small number of new plants.

In the spring, when the leaves bloom, bend the branches, pin them and cover them with earth. Maintain moderate humidity around the plant at all times. For more rapid growth For new spireas, remove the first inflorescences. Before frost, cover with dry leaves. In the spring, plant new plants in a permanent place.

It is this bright garden guest that is the favorite plant of gardeners, due to its spectacular appearance and ease of care. Another compelling argument in favor of growing this flowering bush- this is an opportunity to propagate spirea different ways. Moreover, this can be done almost all year round.

The nuances of spirea propagation

It is more productive to carry out the spirea propagation procedure in early spring (before sap flow begins) or in the fall. This is the most favorable periods, since the soil is fully saturated with moisture, which contributes to better survival of the plant. If you have some experience, you can propagate spirea in the summer.

Spiraea, propagated by cuttings, turns into a lush flowering bush after 2–3 years

If time is lost in the spring, since the buds have already begun to swell, then it is recommended to wait until leaf growth stops. This happens before flowering in late spring. In summer, the plant is propagated approximately in mid-June - after flowering. Choose a cloudy day for work. Autumn breeding finished 2–3 weeks before the first cold snap - at the end of September or beginning of October.

Most gardeners prefer propagating spirea in the fall, since the planted plants do not require special care. It is enough to prepare them for wintering.

The most popular method of propagating spirea is cuttings. It allows you to save initial characteristics varieties. Almost all varieties of spirea take root well from cuttings.

There are also other methods of reproduction:

• dividing the bush;
• layering;
• from seeds.

The latter option is more suitable for species-specific specimens (for example, oak-leaved, white, gray and Japanese spirea), since the seeds of hybrids do not always germinate or as a result produce plants with altered data.

Seeds

Propagating spirea from seeds allows you to obtain many seedlings. Seeds do not require preliminary stratification and various kinds preparation. They are collected in the summer season (in August), and sown in the fall or next spring. It is important to have time to remove the fruits before they fall to the ground and open. They are cut slightly unripe and kept in the house for 2–3 weeks, then the seeds are dried and stored until sowing.

Spiraea has small dark brown seeds

Sequencing:

1. A loose and nutritious substrate is poured into a volumetric box - a mixture of vermiculite and peat in a ratio of 1:4.
2. The seeds are evenly distributed over the surface. Then the container is buried in the garden bed.
3. If sowing is carried out in the spring, then moisten the soil from a spray device and cover it with polyethylene. After which the box is removed to a place where the seedlings will be protected from direct sun rays and wind.
4. As soon as the first shoots appear, the film is removed.

After sowing, the first shoots hatch within 2 weeks.

Further care of the crops involves daily moistening from a spray bottle and ventilation. Approximately 2–3 weeks after sowing, when the sprouts reach a length of up to 2 cm, dive is carried out. It is better to carry out the procedure after sunset. Seedlings are removed from the ground, several at a time, and then separated. If this is not done, then the more developed shoots will suppress the weakened ones. In the fall before transplanting to open ground pinch too long roots by a third of the total length. With this method of germinating spirea, you should not expect flowering earlier than after 3 years.

Cuttings

Green and lignified cuttings are suitable for plant propagation in this way. They are harvested from last year's or annual shoots. The option is chosen depending on the season when rooting is carried out.

Takes root best green cuttings, taken from branches formed in the current year and cut after the plant has flowered.

In spring and autumn, it is recommended to take woody shoots, which are easy to find by the brown bark. Choose strong branches no thicker than 0.5 cm, growing exclusively in vertical plane. Then the new plant will have a beautiful and even crown. Sticks 15–20 cm long are cut from the middle part of the shoots. Each should contain 5–6 living internodes. The lower cut is made at an angle, the upper cut is made even. The cuttings can be rooted immediately in open ground to a permanent place of growth or in a box and then transplanted to a garden bed.

Lignified cuttings are cut from the middle of the shoots

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Drainage from broken bricks or expanded clay, then a layer fertile land and sand.
2. The cuttings are treated with Kornevin (this increases rooting by 20–30%).
3. Stick the shoots into the sand so that the 2-3 lower buds are hidden. The main thing is that the lower cut does not come into contact with the soil layer, but is located in the sand. Otherwise, there is a high probability of rotting of the planting material.
4. Put on top plastic bottles with a cut neck.

Then the container is placed in the greenhouse. Roots appear in about a month. During this time, it is necessary to regularly moisten the cuttings by spraying them from a spray bottle and open them slightly for ventilation.

To propagate spirea by cuttings in the summer, green blanks are needed, which are cut from the apical part of the shoots. All the lower leaves are torn off from the blanks, leaving a few on top and shortening them by half.

Green cuttings are prepared from the tops of last year's shoots

First, dip the cuttings in a highly concentrated manganese solution, then just drop them in a fertile substrate to a depth of 2 cm. It is advisable to place them at a distance of 3 cm from each other. Place glass or plastic caps on them to create a greenhouse effect. When the shoots begin to grow, they are transplanted to a permanent place in the garden. This usually happens in the fall or the following spring.

Insert the cuttings into the sand at an angle

Experienced gardeners do not advise rooting spirea cuttings in water, because they begin to rot.

Video: how to grow spirea from cuttings

Dividing the bush

Spiraea at the age of 3–4 years can be propagated by division. This method is not applicable to older plants, since it usually leads to injury to the root system (it is extremely overgrown). The best period for this procedure is autumn (the first days of September), although any other season (except winter) is suitable. Choose a cloudy and rainy day for work.

To divide the bush it is better to use pruners

Proceed as follows:

1. They dig around the bush around the perimeter, stepping back about 40 cm from the stems (so as not to touch the roots).
2. Carefully remove the bush and shake off the soil. Then place it in a container with water for at least an hour.
3. Very long roots are trimmed.
4. Divide the root ball into several sections so that several renewal buds remain on each section.
5. They dig a larger hole and place a hill in the center, on which they place the division. Distribute the roots evenly on the sides.
6. Fall asleep free space soil and water the plant abundantly.

For successful rooting of spirea bushes, the first 2-3 weeks require regular and abundant watering, especially in hot weather.

By layering

When it is necessary to obtain some planting material, they resort to propagating the plant by layering. This is one of the simplest and convenient ways. In the spring, as soon as the first leaves appear, the procedure begins. Select a healthy bush that will require branches close to the ground. They are bent and pinned, and sprinkled with soil on top.

The most practical method, since there is no injury to the mother bush

For summer season this place is systematically watered. The parent plant is not allowed to bloom, the buds are immediately picked off so that energy is not wasted. For the winter, it is hilled up and the layering is covered with spruce branches and dry leaves, which will prevent them from freezing. Next spring they are cut off from the mother bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

So that young spireas take root successfully and delight lush flowering, it is recommended to listen to some professional recommendations:

• To grow spirea, select a well-lit area with protection from drafts. It’s not scary if there is light shading.
• Preference is given to drained, loose and fertile soil. Optimal composition: garden soil, peat and river sand (all components are taken in equal proportions).
• When transplanting seedlings, leave the root collar slightly open. Be sure to mulch the root space with humus.
• If several plants are planted nearby, the distance between them should be at least a meter. When is it planned to grow hedge, then the planting density will be less - 40–50 cm.
• There is no need to insulate adult plants for the winter.

The first year after planting, the perennial needs careful care: watering - once every 2 weeks (10 liters per bush), fertilizing - liquid mineral compositions(spring) and mullein diluted in water with the addition of superphosphate (autumn).

Spiraea is a popular modern landscape design perennial shrub with woody decorative branches. It is quite often found on the plots of amateur gardeners, but when decorating city squares and parks, this plant is used no less often. Not the least role in the popularity of this shrub was played by the fact that it is quite easy to grow. Propagation of spirea by cuttings or seeds is a rewarding and not labor-intensive process. Even more amazing is the number of varieties and species of this plant. What can we say about the variety of colors of inflorescences. There are at least 90 known varieties alone, and there are no more varieties to count.

So, the first question that arises for gardeners who have chosen to propagate spirea by cuttings is when to start cutting it. This is usually done in the first months of autumn, but if desired, you can begin the rooting process at the end of July. If you make cuttings in late September-early October, you can be sure that the vast majority of seedlings will be accepted. Before the first roots have sprung, the cuttings will go under the snow, and therefore for a long time they will be able to do without watering and spraying. They will sprout in the spring. Some experienced gardeners prefer to propagate spirea by cuttings in late February-early March. The shoots are rooted on the windowsill, and with the arrival of a stable warm weather carry them into the garden open air. Despite the fact that this method is more troublesome than the previous ones, since constant monitoring and spraying are required, it gives the highest percentage of survival rate.

The second issue is that many novice gardeners do not know how to properly cut a cutting for rooting. First you need to select best material for landing. A good shoot should be one year old, upright and without visible damage. In general, we can safely say that the successful propagation of spirea by cuttings largely depends on successfully selected planting material. Each cut shoot must have at least 5 leaves. The lower pair must be completely removed with petioles, and the remaining leaves must be cut by 2/3.

Now that the cutting is ready, it needs to be rooted. In order to increase the probability of survival, seedlings are soaked for 12 hours in Epin solution before planting. In general, 2 liters of water are enough, to which you need to add 1 ml of the substance. It would also be a good idea to powder the lower nodes of the cuttings with any powder; this will only make our germinating spirea stronger. Reproducing it, as already mentioned, is a troublesome matter, requiring compliance with a number of nuances. For example, shoots are planted in wet sand and placed not vertically, but at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. This is done in order to provoke the development of not the upper, but the lower buds. Seedlings must be sprayed with a spray bottle once every 2 days. The container itself in which the spirea is germinated is covered with a film or glass cap. With the onset of frost, the container is dropped onto garden plot, and rooting seedlings are sprinkled with foliage. They are transplanted into open ground only with the arrival of spring, when new leaves appear on them.

Exists a large number of This very beautiful variety is held in special esteem by designers and ordinary gardeners. Its propagation is no different from other varieties, but the variety of forms and types of this plant is truly amazing.

Cuttings of spirea are one of the most common ways of propagating this ornamental shrub. Optimal time It is considered to be carried out in spring, but for spring-flowering varieties, such as Spiraea Gray, the procedure is carried out in the summer. The survival rate for spring cuttings is about 70-80% if all the necessary steps are followed.

The resulting young plants retain all varietal qualities, in contrast to the method of propagation by seeds. This method is not labor-intensive and allows you to get high-quality planting material within one season. Spring cuttings are ideal for summer-flowering varieties such as White or Japanese spirea. This allows not only to obtain material for cuttings, but also to carry out routine pruning of the bush.

Pruning and preparing cuttings

For cuttings of spirea, straight-growing young shoots are cut.

Reproduction of spirea by green cuttings in spring occurs in several stages, which are carried out in a certain sequence:

1. 1. Cuttings are cut into 10-15 cm pieces, but so that each has at least 4 leaves.
2. 2. The lower cut must be made not with pruning shears, but sharp knife at an angle of 30 degrees, which will help increase the surface area for root formation.
3. 3. The lower 2 leaves should be cut off along with the petioles, and the upper leaves should be shortened by half, this will reduce moisture evaporation and speed up the root formation process.
4. 4. Dip the prepared cuttings into the solution or powder them with the powder of any root former (Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Grandis), but this is not a prerequisite.
5. 5. Plant the resulting planting material in a container with prepared soil.

For spring cuttings of spirea, you should not prune shoots that are blooming or already have clearly defined flower buds.

Planting in the substrate

Spiraea cuttings are rooted in a specially prepared substrate, which can consist entirely of river sand or from a mixture of sand and peat in a 1:1 ratio. To disinfect the soil, it is spilled with a fungicide (Previkur) in advance to eliminate the risk of developing root rot in the future.

Any containers (pots, containers, bowls) are suitable for planting green cuttings, the bottom of which must have holes for excess water to escape. The depth of the containers should allow the entire lower part of the cuttings to be buried to the remaining bottom sheet. It is necessary to plant at an angle of 45 degrees, which will slow down the growth of apical shoots and activate the process of root formation.

Before planting, the soil must be thoroughly moistened, but avoid stagnation of water, excess moisture must be able to freely exit through holes in the bottom. Ideal option The wick will be placed at the bottom of the container, which will help optimize the process of watering the seedlings throughout the entire rooting period. For these purposes, you can use 2 cm wide strips of cotton fabric or thick rope. One end of the wick is placed under a layer of soil at the bottom of the pot, and the second is led through a hole into a container of water. This device will help provide automatic watering for spirea cuttings.

Also, for successful rooting, cuttings must be provided high humidity air, so containers are covered with glass or plastic bag. This will help create a greenhouse effect and thereby provide the seedlings with the necessary moisture.