Drill a hole in a tree for a pipe 50. How to drill a log or thick beam? Of course, with a screw drill. Step by step how I drilled

Drilling a hole with a feather drill

At first glance, when the question arises about how to drill a hole in wood, most people have no doubt: just think, wood is not metal and can be drilled easily. Yes, this is partly true if you want to make not a hole in the wood, but a banal hole. And in order to drill a hole in wood correctly and efficiently, you need to listen to the advice of craftsmen in the processing of wooden structures, who are also called wood modelers.

Rules for drilling holes in wood

The rules are definitely simple, but following them will help you save your time, nerves and consumables in the form of wooden blanks and ready-made parts. So, what you need to pay attention to:

• Before drilling, you need to accurately mark the location for the hole.
• Choose the right cutting tool. This refers to drills for working with wood, countersinks, pen drills with a drilling depth limiter and annular cutters of the required diameter.
• When drilling, the tool (mostly a drill) must be held strictly vertically.
• Use drills designed for specific materials only.
• Wooden parts must be firmly secured in a vice.
• The cutting tool should be pressed firmly, but with uniform force.

Techniques for drilling holes in wood

Countersink hole for screw head

Let's start drilling simple holes for a screw or. Usually these holes are small in diameter and drilling them is not difficult. The only thing you need to do is to countersink the hole before drilling, that is, turn the surface of the wood under the screw head. To do this, firmly fix the wood and use a countersink to make a recess in it slightly larger than the height of the head of the screw or self-tapping screw. After this, firmly pressing a drill of the required diameter to the surface, drill the hole you need.

There are situations when you need to drill a “blind” hole for a tenon joint. To do this, you need to use a feather drill with a limiter, which is placed on the drill according to the size of the drilling depth

It is more difficult to make holes in large-diameter wood, since the use of conventional cylindrical drills chips the surface of the material, spoiling its appearance. To successfully cope with this task, feather drills and annular cutters are used.

Drilling with feather drills

Feather drill

For successful drilling with feather drills, secure the wood firmly in a vice and press the tip of the drill bit against the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) the hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the feather bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vice and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the block from splitting when drilling.

Drilling with an annular cutter

Wood annular cutter

An annular cutter is used to drill holes in wood with a diameter greater than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a small-diameter guide drill, structurally connected to the cutter in one piece. This guide serves as a guide for the annular cutter.

Here are some tips from professionals that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:

a) for vertical drilling, you can install a square parallel to the drill;
b) if you often have to do carpentry work, purchase a special stand for a drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically and controls the depth of the holes;
c) be sure to use a vice when drilling to avoid splitting the wood;
d) so that the outlet hole does not have chips, place an unnecessary block under the wooden part and drill them together. This is especially applicable when making holes in a thin board;
e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill in the place where the limit is limited with bright electrical tape or masking tape.

The article will be useful to a person both planning this work for the first time and having the “bitter” experience of labor intensity.

I was faced with a problem - to drill through a thick wall consisting of several layers, namely: a concrete block 200 mm thick, a sleeper 240 mm, plastered with 80 millimeters on each side, plus an “air cushion” of 100 millimeters is provided between the block and the sleeper , not less. I could be wrong with the dimensions somewhere, but having measured the thickness in the doorway, the wall was 730 millimeters.

It’s nothing scary, it’s just work and work, installing a water supply system into the room attached to the house and that’s all, but the difficulty lies in drilling different materials, plus drilling is only possible on one side, from the extension.
In fact: plaster, block, sleeper, plaster. In addition to the hammer drill, you will also need a drill with a wood drill bit.

Orders of this kind occur quite rarely, once every five years, so to speak, and accordingly, a rarely used tool will be needed.

To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm) I need:

1. a drill for a hammer drill with a diameter of at least 22 mm (or better yet 25, remember that polypropylene expands for hot water supply?), and a length of at least 300 mm, this is the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. Have you ever drilled a sleeper with a drill?.. you'll be shocked...;
2. a wood drill, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the conventionally drilled plaster and block, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself;
3. a drill for a rotary hammer with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall (do we remember that you can only drill on one side? Yes, and the horseradish holes towards each other will coincide with two, and if you measure thoroughly, then the slope is any will be different).

Drilling a wall at once with a large-diameter drill is very labor-intensive and time-consuming; it is much easier and faster to drill a thin one, and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with different drills in increasing increments, depending on the ultimately required diameter. The “old-fashioned” method is very effective, you save a lot of physical effort, and what is important in my case is time - the work at first glance is “the cat cried”, all it takes is to remove two tubes, BUT the wall...

So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for hammer drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills.
Here are some screenshots with price tags:

Normal, right? And this is here in the provinces! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?

An alternative to a long screw drill is a feather drill, the condition of suitability is that you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, luckily connecting them together is as easy as shelling pears. That's exactly what I did, I already had one extension cord.

As a result, I received the required tool at a reasonable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive; to put it mildly, he’s not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes installed, but how you did it is your problem. The point is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably go through in the next five-year period, and the instrument will lie idle.

Step by step how I drilled:

1. from the side of the attached room, using a hammer drill with a 12 mm drill, I drilled through the plaster and block;
2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill;
3. drilled the sleeper with a 25 mm feather drill;
4. then, again installing a long thin drill, I drilled through the plaster at the exit;
5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, I expanded the diameter towards.

Conclusion:

In order to (one-time or more than once) drill a concrete wall, say a meter thick and 32 in diameter, it is not necessary to buy an expensive drill, but you will need one meter of millimeters 12÷16 in diameter. The second in increasing order may be 25, but already half a meter long, and the next passage is thirty-second, but again half a meter long, you drill them towards them. This is how I, for example, convey the idea in an accessible way, with variations depending on the occasion.

And one more thing: with feather drills, the option of gradually increasing the diameter does not work, you drill immediately with a wide feather, the price for them is a pittance in comparison with drills, and I have never seen wooden walls of great thickness.

Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:

First:

When installing pipes, in addition to water supply, I also install sewerage if necessary. It’s no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters; I don’t have a drilling rig with diamond bits, so I fulfill orders using the same hammer drill.
I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, using the same principle that I highlighted above, I expand the diameter of each hole to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula and switching the hammer drill mode to chiselling, I get rid of everything unnecessary. So... I agree the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant for a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, but for a much larger thickness you present the customer with a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using bits with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the “breadth” of choice... the customer pays, then we come in with the installation.

Second:

Let’s say you fulfill the first point yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a “surprise” in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls of panel houses).. You can’t take it with a drill, electric arc welding will help, for lack of, grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access... in short, I don’t advise you to bother.
Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. There's no such thing? Find it! As in that saying: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”

Questions, additions: in the comments column, but that’s all I have for today, with respect

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All photos from the article

If you need to make a large diameter hole in a tree, you will have to use special devices, each of which has its own characteristics. We will consider all possible options and tell you about their main advantages and disadvantages so that you can choose the best option in accordance with the specifics of the work in a given situation.

Criteria for choosing a quality option

Below we will look at the main types of devices, but for now we will outline the criteria that any option must meet, regardless of its modification:

Advice! To be guaranteed to purchase a quality product, be it , you need to contact official representatives of a particular brand or buy products from well-known stores that care about their reputation and do not sell cheap fakes.

Types of products and their features

Let's look at what options you can find in our retail network and how they differ from each other.

Feather drills

The most common and budget option, which is quite convenient for even inexperienced craftsmen to work with. And you can also master this simple process with your own hands.

Let's look at the main advantages of this solution:

• The diameter range varies from 10 to 60 mm.
• The work is done quite quickly, but the quality of the hole is low, and it is unlikely to achieve an ideal result.
• The maximum drilling depth is approximately 150 mm.
• Products are sold either in sets of 5-6 pieces or individually, so you decide which option is right for you.
• If necessary, you can buy an extension that clamps the drill and increases its length by 300 mm.

Large sizes are usually sold individually, small sizes are usually sold in sets.

It is impossible not to mention such an interesting option as an adjustable pen drill; this type of product can make holes with a diameter of 22 to 76 mm. The work is carried out at low speeds using fairly powerful power tools.