Options for attaching a veranda to a house using aerated concrete. Construction of an extension from foam blocks to a wooden house: types of extensions, construction features, stages of work, features of connecting the extension to the residential area. Important points of construction

Making an extension to a wooden house is not at all as difficult as it seems at first glance, but before you begin to carry out your plans, you need to decide on the material from which the extension will be made. Foam blocks are considered the most popular building material for building extensions.

Adding to your home is one of the easiest and most efficient ways to expand your living space.

Advantages and disadvantages of concrete blocks

The advantages of using foam concrete blocks: a high level of thermal protection, good sound insulation and fire resistance, lightness compared to other building materials, strength, ease of installation, simplicity and low cost of finishing after the construction of the building. In general, the technology for constructing an extension from foam blocks is similar to brickwork. However, an extension made of foam blocks in most cases is cheaper than one made of brick: firstly, due to the lower cost of the material and lightness, which allows you to save on building a foundation without sacrificing safety; and secondly, thanks to a simpler construction technology than brickwork. Installation of foam blocks does not require special skills; less time and effort is required to lay the blocks. Also, foam blocks are environmentally friendly, safe for humans, have low thermal conductivity, are not flammable and practically do not shrink.

But the foam block has one significant drawback: it is prone to freezing in areas with harsh climates due to its high hygroscopicity. However, this is a solvable problem; during construction it will be necessary to take more careful care of the waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Features of the construction of the extension

Before starting construction, it is necessary to conduct an examination of the wooden building. At the same time, the walls are checked and rotten logs are replaced during the process. They also find out the depth of the existing foundation and its dimensions.

Before installing the foundation of the extension, a small trench is dug next to the existing foundation, and reinforcing bars are inserted into the foundation itself to fasten the future foundation to the present one.

Construction of the foundation and walls of the extension

The first step is laying the foundation.

Foam blocks are a relatively lightweight building material, which allows you to build a simpler foundation.

Depending on the height of the extension, a strip or monolithic type of foundation is chosen. But it is important that the design of the foundation of the extension is similar to the foundation of the main building. The depth and shrinkage values ​​of the foundations must be the same. Before laying the concrete solution, formwork is arranged, which is removed only after the composition has hardened (about three days). The waterproofing on the surface of the foundation must be tripled (for example, a layer of sealing mastic with insulation and a bitumen layer). Then a roofing material layer is laid. To connect the foundation with load-bearing walls, reinforcement pins with a diameter of at least 12 are most often used.

It is best to start building walls a year after finishing the foundation - this will reduce the inevitable subsidence of the foundation. The construction of the walls of the extension is carried out similarly to brickwork. A cement-sand mortar or a special glue is used as a binder, which is selected depending on the construction season. To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges, the thickness of the seam between the blocks should not exceed 3 mm. Laying is done layer by layer, starting from the end. If the annex is planned to be converted into a boiler room in the future, then the walls must be insulated; polystyrene foam or mineral wool can be used as insulation.

The key point of construction is the connection of the extension with the outer walls of the wooden house. Most often, reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 and above are used for this. Every three rows, holes with a diameter of 60 mm and a depth of 50 mm are cut at the ends of the building. Then a hole for the reinforcement is knocked out, which is filled with glue. Thus, the extension made of foam blocks will be connected to the wooden building. If you wish, you can not connect the walls at all - it is enough to lay a gap between them with mineral wool or any other insulation or foam, and close the space itself with a plank or beams that are placed on the walls of the house on both sides of the extension. A few years after the construction of the extension, the connections are made rigid using metal fasteners.

Construction of floors and roofs, façade decoration

To construct additional floors, you can use both slab floors and wooden beam floors. It is best to use aerated concrete slabs or hollow concrete slabs. For beam floors, the best solution would be pine timber, which must be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting impregnation - this way the timber floor will last much longer. To construct the ceiling, a lining is made of plywood sheets, light boards and chipboard.

After completing the construction of the extension, you can begin insulating and decorating the external walls. Most often, expanded polystyrene panels are used for this, and siding, lining, decorative stone with preliminary plastering of the walls are used to decorate the facade.

It is better to make the roof of the extension not continuous. The covering of the extension is carried out 20-30 mm below the roof of the wooden building, with an overlap that will not allow snow and rain to penetrate under the roof. As a roofing material, it is best to choose lightweight metal tiles or profiled sheets, so as not to overload the load-bearing walls. As a constructive solution, a simple pitched roof is chosen, which will be easy to construct and will not require significant costs for design and construction. In this case, a mauerlat is laid on the top layer of blocks, which is fixed to the walls. Then the rafters and diagonal rafter legs are installed on the Mauerlat, on top of which the sheathing is secured. The selected roofing material is placed on the sheathing. It is best to secure the rafters using slides rather than metal corners. This will prevent the roof from moving when the building inevitably settles.

An extension to a house made of foam block is one of the simplest and most rational ways to expand your living space.

Obviously, making an extension from foam blocks is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right foundation design and follow the masonry construction technology. Then there should be no problems during operation and the extension will serve for many years together with the main wooden building.

The need to add additional space often arises. A garage, a boiler room, a utility block - it is most convenient to have all these premises nearby, at hand. In addition, the size of the plot does not always allow the construction of the desired building in the distance. The simplest solution to the problem is to build an aerated concrete extension to the house.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

The main issues that arise during the design are the type of foundation and the method of connecting the extension to the wall of the house. The durability and stability of the new structure depends on the quality of solutions to these problems.

Foundation type

Most often, the foundation is built separately from the general foundation of the house. This is due to two reasons:

• Lack of a common foundation area on which to build additional space. No questions arise here - when building a house, it is very rare that the foundation for a future extension is immediately poured.
• The need to decouple the foundations of a house and an extension made of aerated concrete due to the difference in weight. The load that an aerated concrete extension to the house will inevitably create may be unbearable for the foundation of the main building. It was not designed to accept excess weight; as a result of the additional load, there is a risk of distortions, settlement or other violations of the foundation geometry.

The only correct solution would be to build a separate foundation. Now we need to decide which type of foundation will be most correct. There are several factors to consider here:

• What is the extension to the house intended for - will it be a residential or auxiliary room, will it be heated, etc.
• The size of the additional room.
• Hydrogeological conditions of the site, depth of groundwater and soil composition.
• Are you planning to create a basement, cellar, etc.

All these factors together will determine the load-bearing capacity and type of foundation.

Possible types of foundation

• Slab. It has the form of a monolithic slab located on a sand and gravel bed. It performs well on heaving soils that have noticeable seasonal movements - the base “floats” on the surface, changing its position along with the soil. The disadvantage of this type is the high labor intensity of the work and the inability to build a basement or cellar.
• Tape. The most common type of foundation. Allows you to make a basement, and it can be built later, when the construction of the walls is completed. The costs for such a base are lower than for a slab base, and labor costs are much less.
• Pile. This foundation is used in areas with high groundwater levels. Piles are driven (or screwed, poured) into the ground until they come into contact with solid layers. The support is strong and reliable, but the construction of a basement is excluded. In addition, driving piles in close proximity to a residential building is dangerous. The solution may be screw piles, which can be screwed in manually.

The choice of one type of foundation or another depends on the capabilities of the site and the owner of the house. When building extensions from aerated concrete to a brick house, the amount of additional load is in any case less than the main one. For wooden houses, especially frame ones, the situation may be the opposite.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

For small extensions, a strip shallow type of foundation is most often used, less often a slab type is used, for which ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used, laid on a cushion of ASG. It should be taken into account that laying slabs requires equipment that is not always able to drive close to the house due to the presence of other buildings or other obstacles.

Work order

First of all, it is necessary to draw up a project plan for the work being prepared and obtain all the necessary permits. The procedure is quite lengthy, but the consequences of unauthorized construction can be more unpleasant.

• Then the construction of the foundation begins. The area is carefully marked, the corners are marked with pegs, between which cords are stretched. They will be used to monitor the correctness of the trench excavation under the foundation.
• A 10-15 cm thick ASG is poured into the bottom of the trench to level and create a drainage layer. It is carefully compacted.
• Formwork is installed, the inner surface is lined with roofing felt (hydroprotection), and a reinforcement frame is constructed.
• Concrete is poured and the tape is left to dry completely.
• The formwork is disassembled, the second stage begins - the construction of walls.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

Aerated concrete is a simple and easy-to-work material. It is relatively lightweight, laid like a brick, but the size of the blocks significantly speeds up the work.

An extension to a wooden house made of aerated concrete can be carried out even by an untrained person without experience; the main thing is to learn some rules. For example:

• It is not recommended to use the usual cement mortar; you will need special glue.
• Foam concrete is soft, it can be cut with a regular hacksaw, which allows you to very carefully adjust the blocks to size.
• The nails do not hold in the material. Anchors must be used.

The walls are raised to the required height, tied with a mauerlat, on which the rafter system is installed. Most often, an extension to a house made of foam concrete has a flat pitched roof, which greatly simplifies the installation of rafters. The slope of the roof should be directed away from the walls.

Connecting the extension to the walls of the house

A serious question is how best to attach the extension to the walls of the house. To save materials and labor costs, they often try to use the wall of the house as the fourth wall of the extension. Under no circumstances should this be done. Seasonal soil movements and natural shrinkage of an extension to a house made of aerated concrete will cause changes in the geometry of the walls, which can lead to the formation of cracks or even destruction.

It is impossible to connect the walls of the house and the extension; in fact, a separate building is needed, only built close to the house.

All adjoining areas must have elastic expansion joints that compensate for movements of the extension or main structure. The junction of the roof and the wall is also equipped with a movable elastic connection, allowing smooth movement without breaking the tightness of the seam.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

The construction of an extension from aerated concrete to wooden walls is quite simple. The main condition is not to tie them together in a rigid manner and to ensure that rainwater drains away from the walls. All other issues are resolved in the usual way: the floors are screeded, the ceiling is most often made of wood in order to lighten the weight of the structure. The work must be carried out in the warm season, for which it will be necessary to calculate in advance the timing of all necessary operations. With a small amount of additional space, the work can be completely done alone or with an assistant during one warm season.

Video about an aerated concrete extension to a wooden house

Over time, almost every family has a need for additional living space. The ideal option would be to add an extension to a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands, in compliance with the basic rules of construction work. Considering all the undeniable advantages of this modern analogue of concrete, the construction of a new building will be quick, easy and will not require a lot of money.

Preparatory work

Before making an extension from aerated concrete and starting construction, you must obtain official permission from the relevant authorities. To do this, a new part of the building is first designed, preferably with the participation of specialists, to avoid significant mistakes during independent construction, leading to destruction during operation.

An additional room, bedroom, veranda, kitchen, loggia, etc. can serve as an extension. When constructing any type of extension, the required elements are the foundation and walls. The roof can be made in the form of:

• adjoining the slope of the roof of the house;
• adjoining the gables;
• devices of the general rafter system;
• independent design option.

Taking into account the differences in loads, it is recommended to make the foundation of a new room separately to prevent the formation of cracks during possible seasonal heaving of the soil. It is more rational to make the walls of the extension from modern analogues of concrete. We are talking about aerated concrete and blocks made of this porous thermal insulation material. Aerated concrete is indeed a very effective material, having a high degree of thermal insulation, due to the presence of a lower density and a large number of internal pores.

Features of aerated concrete

The more voids there are in the material, the higher its heat-saving property. This is confirmed by construction practice using hollow bricks as an example. In aerated concrete, the pores are distributed evenly throughout the volume. A type of foam concrete is a material in the case of constructing not a whole house, but part of it in the form of an extension. An extension made of aerated concrete is an inexpensive and reasonable solution to the problem of lack of living space, especially if you do it yourself.

Tip: laying gas blocks is similar to laying a brick wall, the only difference is in size. Aerated concrete blocks have a standard size of 20x20x40 cm.

The popularity of this building material is also explained by its optimal strength, ease of use and high environmental friendliness. Walls made of aerated concrete “breathe” and do not create dampness in the room; they are erected easily, quickly and without significant investment of time and money.

The foundation is the basis of the extension

The construction of a new room in your home must be preceded by the installation of a foundation for its load-bearing and internal walls. The connection diagram of two foundations, old and new, assumes the coincidence of the horizontal lines of the buildings. Before starting to lay a new foundation, the corners of the future building are measured. The diagonals of the resulting perimeter must be equal to each other and located at the same distance from the existing walls of the house. It is necessary to carry out a control measurement of the corners of the future building - they should be 90 degrees.

A standard foundation thickness is selected for aerated concrete walls. For the middle zone it is 40-50 cm. The depth of the foundation is chosen taking into account the depth of soil freezing in this climatic zone. A depth of 50-60 cm is usually considered optimal. After marking and excavation work to construct a trench for the foundation, it is necessary to reinforce it using metal elements to give the foundation greater strength. Ribbed steel reinforcement is best suited for this purpose.

Important points of construction

The crucial moment at this stage of construction is the mandatory connection of the new foundation and its armored belt to the old one. To do this, end cuts are made in the old foundation and the reinforcement of the new and old foundation is connected by welding or tying using strong metal wire. After this, you can proceed directly to pouring the foundation. For this, a concrete mixture of sand, gravel, cement and water is prepared. It is advisable to use high-grade cement with a short shelf life, since the strength of cement is lost during long-term storage.

To prevent shrinkage of the walls during operation, the new foundation must be given time to stand and gain strength. This takes about two weeks. The base of the new building is laid on the surface of the foundation. Typically, brick is used for this purpose because it is easy to form around the perimeter and provides good additional insulation from soil moisture. This is very important in our case, because aerated concrete has a porous structure that is prone to absorbing moisture, which can subsequently cause dampness in the corners of the house.

Attention: The finished foundation is covered with bitumen mastic and covered with roofing felt for additional waterproofing.

After following all the preparatory processes, you can proceed directly to the construction of an extension made of aerated concrete. In order to improve the thermal insulation properties of concrete using foaming, its structure changes, pores are formed, and the density of the original material decreases. It turns out that with an increase in the ability to conserve heat, some of the strength is lost and the ability to withstand loads decreases. Therefore, the construction of new buildings entirely from aerated concrete blocks requires special construction technologies.

Features of working with aerated concrete

The construction of an extension to a house made of aerated concrete is technologically and economically justified and has many advantages, namely:

• there is no need for insulation;
• It’s easy and quick to build walls;
• no construction skills required;
• aerated concrete has optimal strength with high heat retention.

Aerated concrete blocks are produced in autoclaves, which significantly increases and ensures fairly high strength. Walls built from 40 cm thick aerated concrete blocks have heat retention equal to a meter thick brick wall. The ability to cut with a hacksaw allows you to simplify the installation and construction of walls made of aerated concrete. The installation of blocks for the extension is carried out using a special construction adhesive or concrete mortar.

Advice: Work with aerated concrete blocks is carried out exclusively in dry weather, as it is very hygroscopic.

A special feature of working with aerated concrete is also the need to cover it with waterproofing layers. Typically, such walls are plastered on the outside and inside. The extension will be even warmer, drier and more reliable if fiberglass is glued to its surface before applying putty and plaster. After the final layer of plaster, the facades of the walls made of aerated concrete blocks are painted or subjected to a different design at the request of the developer.

As you can see, aerated concrete has a number of advantages and benefits when constructing attached premises, especially good heat retention and ease of installation. The construction of a roof for such a building is best done from flexible tiles, bitumen slate and other lightweight roofing analogues.

Even in ancient times, it became clear to humanity that air is the best heat insulator.

Layout of reinforcement for a house extension made of aerated concrete blocks.

People decided to take advantage of this property. And today, with the availability of modern materials and the use of nanotechnology, this has not been forgotten. Except that the methods of using air insulation have changed.

Today, the most effective, from the point of view of thermal insulation, are materials that have a low density and contain many air pores inside.

These include fiberglass or basalt, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, hollow brick (the more voids there are, the more heat-saving the brick is). Foamed concrete is considered the most effective of modern materials. We will talk about one of its varieties, namely, o. It is especially indispensable when you need an extension to the house, and not an entire building.

Scheme for adding an additional room.

Aerated concrete is considered an environmentally friendly material, which, thanks to its porous structure, is durable, lightweight and has excellent thermal insulation. The combination of all this makes it more popular among all other types of building materials and allows it to be used both in the construction of entire houses and various extensions to the house. This could be a sauna, veranda, bathroom or heating unit. Easy, fast, without any extra costs. The main thing to remember is that before you start building an extension to your house, it would be a good idea to objectively assess the condition of the building itself. If it is new enough, then an extension makes sense. It may be much more profitable to demolish a very old house and build a new one than to use this inexpensive method of expanding living space.

The basis of any building

Scheme of connecting the new foundation to the old one.

Before you start making an extension to the building, you need to measure the corners of the future structure. Their diagonals should be at the same distance from the wall of the house and have the same length. Next, you need to determine the thickness of the foundation; for the middle zone, 40-50 cm will be optimal. The depth should be 40-60 cm, which is due to soil freezing in winter. A metal belt is made according to the size of the dug trench. For this purpose, fittings are used. Then holes are drilled in the old foundation and a welded metal belt is attached.

Then the foundation itself is poured, for which a sand-gravel mixture is prepared and cement and clean water are added. You will need a lot of water: 125 liters for 1 cubic meter of concrete. You should also know that the strength of the cement used directly depends on its shelf life: the longer it is stored, the more of its strength it loses. After pouring, the foundation is given time to settle, about 2 weeks. Next, a brick base is laid out. And only after this the extension is made directly from aerated concrete.

Concrete foamer

An attempt was made to improve the properties of concrete using a foaming agent.

Scheme of technology for constructing a columnar foundation.

As already mentioned, in modern conditions this is the most popular building material, which has the greatest heat-saving ability, but there is another side to the coin: the lower the density of the material, the lower its load-bearing capacity. Concrete is known to be the strongest of modern materials and its load-bearing capacity is quite high. But the walls made of it are very cold, so the extension requires mandatory insulation. It is because of this that they came up with the idea of ​​foaming concrete. This is done using foaming agents (most often it is aluminum powder), then it is placed in molds and left to harden either naturally (foam concrete blocks) or in autoclave ovens (aerated concrete blocks). Thus, aerated concrete blocks are produced only industrially, while foam concrete can actually be produced directly on construction sites.

Naturally, this factor cannot but affect the quality and price. Modern manufacturers claim that a thickness of 30-40 cm replaces a brick wall 1 m thick in terms of heat conservation; it is also said that the high vapor permeability of this material does not require the construction of ventilation in the room. Only to attach the blocks you need special fasteners, and in order to screw a self-tapping screw into the wall, you need anchor-type fasteners, otherwise nothing will work. Nails in such walls simply do not hold and fall out. Aerated concrete has another remarkable quality: blocks can be sawed with a hacksaw for metal and planed with a plane, like wood. To install the blocks from which the extension is made, it is better to use special glue.

Deformation of building materials

It must be said that deformation of any building materials is inevitable.

In fairness, it should be noted that no masonry, even 2.5 bricks, is completely airtight. Therefore, it is advisable to seal and coat absolutely all cracks, seams and joints on both one and the other side of the wall. For ventilation gaps between the blocks and facing brickwork, 20 mm will be sufficient. Bonding of blocks and facing masonry is done using nylon reinforcement. It is indispensable when working with tension. In addition to brick, you can use other facade materials. Walls made of aerated concrete must be closed from the outside, since, having high absorbency, they will be extremely fragile. And heat loss in the cold season will be much lower, this is especially true for the middle zone. As practice shows, it is best to plaster a wall on both sides. Then the built extension will be warmer.

A situation often arises when a person has built a house that at first seems comfortable and spacious. But time passes and the shortage of usable space becomes increasingly felt.

In the same way, owners of dachas and country houses often have a desire to add some kind of extension to the main building.

In the photo - a fairly common occurrence in individual construction, when additional space is “increased” to the finished building

It’s good if the owner “started from scratch” not long ago and knows how much it costs to build a house from foam blocks. Then it is much easier for him to navigate the cost of the upcoming work.

But most often those owners of individual housing who decide to add an extension are:

1. It was built a long time ago (10-15 years ago);
2. We purchased a ready-made version and are striving to increase its usable area.

Why foam block

Foam concrete blocks are almost ideal building materials, this is especially true for those cases when a house is built independently, with your own hands. Foam concrete blocks are lightweight and easy to process; for example, they can be easily sawed with a regular hacksaw. Also, their installation does not require special skills, unlike laying bricks.

Foam concrete material is quite easily delivered to those settlements that are considered inaccessible. Comparing foam concrete and other similar building materials, one can highlight higher strength qualities, as well as relatively low cost.

When comparing foam concrete and gas silicate blocks, attention is drawn to the fact that their environmental, fire-resistant, heat and sound insulation parameters are almost at the same level.

But gas silicate blocks have a very porous structure, and therefore higher water absorption. Also, compared to foam concrete blocks, the frost resistance of gas silicate is low, so it is most often used for internal partitions.

The properties of foam concrete and its brand are determined by the density of foam concrete. The best heat and sound insulation qualities are for the material whose density is lower, but with increasing density, its strength increases.

When choosing a brand of foam concrete, you should decide what the purpose of the material is. For load-bearing walls, in the case of building a two-story house, it is worth choosing stronger ones, which are structural or thermal structural. Well, when the question of how much it costs to build a bathhouse from foam blocks is being decided, then you can choose thermal insulation blocks.

We are building an extension

Counting money

In general, what is important is not so much the final amount, but how the calculations are made. Let's say an extension in which three walls need to be laid has dimensions of 3x10 m, the height of the masonry is 2.5 m, the blocks are laid flat on the largest plane.

With a different block location, the calculations will be slightly different.

1. We calculate the volume of the walls. The total length is 16 meters, the thickness of the walls is 0.3 m. We get 16x2.5x0.3 = 12 cubic meters.
   This is the volume of the required foam block. Although it is worth adding about 1 cubic meter due to the fragility of the material. It is necessary to subtract the volume occupied by window and door openings, but this can also be attributed to the battle. We do not take into account the volume of seams, it is too small.
2. The average price of a cubic meter of foam concrete blocks is 2,500 rubles. Although it may differ in different regions, in one direction or another.
3. We multiply 13 by 2500, we get 32,500 rubles.
4. On average, 20 kg of glue for foam blocks is consumed per cubic meter of masonry. This means that at an average price of 300 rubles per bag of 25 kg, we will get 20x12/25 = 15 bags, which costs 4500 rubles.
5. For laying the first row, a cement-sand mortar is required. For the length of the entire wall, with a seam thickness of approximately 2 cm, it will require 16 x 0.02 x 0.3 = 0.1 cubic meters. This will take approximately 35 kg of cement, that is, almost a bag, and 10 buckets of sand.
   In terms of money, it will cost an average of 300 rubles per bag of cement, but sand will have to be carried in a whole truck, so for masonry its cost can not be counted. As a result, the cost of interblock seams will be 4800 rubles.
6. This means that the cost of walls made of foam concrete blocks will be 32500 + 4800 = 37300 rubles.
7. We add the cost of the foundation and roof and get the price that you will have to pay for this extension.

Related articles:

Attention: The process of constructing an extension is a full-fledged construction process.
Which implies the mandatory development of a project, and, of course, this project must be approved by the appropriate authority.

The work plan for the construction of an extension is quite normal: foundation, walls, roofing, interior and exterior decoration. The difference lies in the volume of work performed.

Features of the extension foundation

When making a foundation for an extension to a house, there is a high probability that it will sag. Therefore, it is desirable that the material, as well as the depth of the foundation of the house and the extension, match.

In addition, experts advise giving the new foundation time for it to stand. Ideally, this time should be a year, or even two. And only after the earth under the foundation settles can you be sure of the reliability of the extension being built.

Another important point is the connection between the foundation of the extension and the foundation of the house. There are two connection methods, rigid, using reinforcement, and another, in which an expansion joint is used. The foundation itself can be strip, columnar or screw piles.

The technology for laying the walls of an extension using foam blocks with your own hands is exactly the same as for the main building. Corner blocks are also laid out, a cord is pulled for guidance, and the same special glue is used for foam concrete blocks. Don’t forget about masonry reinforcement and reinforced belt for floor slabs and under the roof.

We build a house from foam block

We calculate the cost

The first thing you need to determine is the final cost of the work, which depends on whether you order the construction of a house from a specialized company or lay blocks. Considering the second case, you will not spend money on the work of third-party builders; they will be useful to you, for example, for interior decoration.

You can get information about how the foam block is laid, how the dressing is performed, how the masonry is reinforced and much more on the pages of our portal. Based on parameters such as the size of the block, knowing how many there are in one cubic meter, you will find out using a calculator how much it costs to build a house from foam blocks.

Cost of foam blocks

The first thing you should pay attention to is that high-quality material can only be produced in a factory. It is at the plant that more expensive and high-quality equipment is used for its production. The mini-factories that have appeared in large numbers should not be trusted, because many of them do not have normal machines.

Good quality products cannot be cheap, and even if the price is not high, the choice of foam concrete blocks must be taken seriously.

Advice: Before purchasing blocks, conduct some kind of market monitoring of the locality where you live.
Find out what people think about the material and only then make a decision.

Having collected all the necessary information regarding the blocks, you will partially find out how much it costs to build a house from foam blocks yourself.

Selecting a project

Before starting the construction process, it is necessary to create a high-quality project for a foam block house.

Advice: You should not develop the project yourself; it would be better if specialists from an architectural bureau do this.
They will do it with better quality and detail.

The project will help you calculate the required amount of building materials, while you can easily take into account certain design features of the building. And this will allow us to finally find out how much it costs to build a house from foam blocks.