Extension to a one-story wooden house. Extension to a wooden house: projects, photos and advice from professionals. Advantages of an extension compared to a free-standing building
The construction of an extension can significantly expand the area of a wooden house and make it more solid in appearance. Similar structures are assembled from a variety of materials. This could be, for example, wood, brick or gas blocks. Of course, when constructing an extension, certain technologies must be followed. We’ll talk further about how such structures are assembled correctly.
Drafting
When planning a structure such as an extension to a wooden house, first of all you should decide:
- With material for walls, foundation and roof. A frame block or log structure is usually attached to a wooden building. Sometimes walls are made of brick or gas blocks. It is better to choose the roofing material for the extension that is the same as the roof of the building itself. In any case, you should try to ensure that the colors of the coating sheets are at least in harmony with each other. The foundation for the extension is chosen of the same type as the foundation of the building itself.
- With the dimensions of the structure. The area of the extension should not be more than 2/3 of the area of the house. Otherwise, the building will look awkward and ugly. The house looks most harmonious when the area of the new building is 1/3 of the old one.
The extension of a terrace to a wooden house, a veranda or a closed permanent structure is carried out in such a way that their roof is located just below the main roof. Of course, the angle between these two structures should not be negative. Otherwise, snow and water will accumulate at the junction.
Construction of the foundation
Marking for a structure such as an extension to a wooden house is done in the usual manner - using a level or the “Egyptian” triangle method. The foundation of the extension should be laid at the same depth as the foundation of the building itself. Rigid concrete strips of houses and extensions are usually not connected. Otherwise, when the new structure shrinks, cracks may appear at the joint. However, sometimes the foundation of an extension is still tied to an existing one. If cracks subsequently appear, they are simply covered with cement mortar.
The choice of type of interface depends mainly on the type of soil and wall material. If severe shrinkage is expected, it is better not to tie the foundations. The foundation for the extension is poured in the usual manner: with the installation of a sand cushion, waterproofing and reinforcement.
Frame structures
This is the cheapest type of extension, characterized by good performance characteristics. Such structures are erected in just a few days and do not shrink at all. Even a not very experienced private builder can assemble a very convenient and aesthetic frame extension to a wooden house. The designs of such structures are incredibly diverse. If necessary, using this technology it will not be difficult to build an ordinary summer extension-veranda, an insulated residential structure, a workshop, a kitchen and even a boiler room.
Construction Features
The foundation is pre-conditioned for a month. When erecting under frame walls, anchor bolts should be poured into it in increments of approximately 1.5 meters. The lower harness is attached to them. Its corners are usually connected using the “half-tree” method. A frame extension to a wooden house will be even more reliable if metal rods 40 cm long are poured into the corners of the foundation so that they protrude 20 cm above the surface. In this case, holes are drilled in the appropriate places in the framing beam.
The assembly of the frame begins with the installation of corner posts. Holes are drilled at their ends for the dowel rods. Next, intermediate posts are attached (in increments of 1.5 m). Fixation is usually done on galvanized steel corners. To ensure that the pillars do not deviate from the vertical during the construction process, they should be secured with temporary jibs. At the next stage, begin assembling the upper trim. They also attach it to the corners, and in the corners using the “half-tree” method.
They continue to build such a structure as a frame extension to a wooden house by fastening the logs to the beam of the bottom frame and covering the floor with edged boards. The floor beams are fixed to the top. After this, you can start covering the walls. First, on the room side, a vapor barrier membrane (with blocks) is attached to the frame pillars. Next is the inner lining. Then insulation is installed between the pillars on the street side (if the extension is for winter). At the final stage, the structure is covered with waterproofing film and sheathed with clapboard, board or siding.
Construction of cobblestone walls
This extension to a wooden house looks beautiful and is durable. It is also not too difficult to erect, but it is more expensive than a frame one.
The lower crown of such an extension is laid on a waterproofed foundation in the same way as tying a frame structure - that is, with fastening to anchors. Logs are fixed to it, and the floor is covered with boards. The walls are assembled in the usual manner. Corners can be connected using the “butt” or “half-tree” methods.
Expansion joint
The timber makes a very reliable extension to a wooden house. Projects may involve the construction of both open verandas and capital heated buildings from this material. However, in any case, one simple rule should be observed: you cannot immediately connect the walls of the extension to the house rigidly. The timber shrinks very strongly after construction. Therefore, an expansion joint should be installed at the junction of the walls. It's very easy to do. On both sides of the extension wall (from the indoors and outdoors) beams 100 x 100 or 50 x 50 mm are nailed to the house itself. All cracks are filled with some plastic material - for example, mastic or a special sealant.
If necessary - no less than two years after construction - an extension to a wooden house or any other, made of timber, can also be attached rigidly. In this case, either staples or special pads with screws are usually used.
Brick construction
Wooden outbuildings are, of course, beautiful structures and are simply ideal for a country residential building. However, many owners of cobblestone and log houses prefer to build more durable and permanent structures made of brick. Such an extension is assembled in the usual way with ligation of the seams, the thickness of which can be 1-1.5 cm.
Of course, you should also not make a rigid connection between the walls of the extension and the house. The brick structure has a very large weight and settles significantly. Therefore, the interface between the walls is simply arranged end-to-end, filling the seam with foam, or in the same way as in the first case between the beams.
Features of roof construction
Thus, the addition of a veranda to a wooden house or a more permanent structure is usually carried out without rigidly fastening the walls. The same rule should be followed when assembling the roof. The roof of the extension can have any shape, but most often a conventional lean-to structure is erected.
At the first stage, the ceiling is hemmed from edged boards or plywood. Next, any vapor or waterproofing material is laid on top of it. Then - insulation. After this, the resulting floor is covered with boards on top.
The rafters are attached on one side to the top frame or mauerlat. In this case, metal corners or “knot” fastening are used with preliminary cutting of the mounting sockets. On the side of the house, you can either simply place a wide beam on the edge, or install it on racks. Waterproofing material (with a slight sag) is stretched onto the rafters and the sheathing is filled. Then the roofing sheets are attached. The joint between the roof of the extension and the wall of the building can be sealed with mastic or foamed.
- The junction between the foundation of the extension and the base of the house, if they are not rigidly fastened, should be laid with a strip of roofing material.
- All wooden elements of the building are pre-treated with an antiseptic against fungus and a composition that increases the fire resistance of the material.
- It is best to build a cobblestone extension in the cold season. In winter, this material shrinks less.
- When assembling an extension of any type, you should use only galvanized fasteners. This will extend the life of the entire structure.
The construction of extensions, as you can see from the article, is a completely simple matter. The most important thing is to comply with all required technologies. In this case, you will get a reliable, durable and convenient structure.
Without first obtaining permits, adding an extension to a house yourself is an illegal increase in the area of the home. It cannot be legitimized in fact if it violates the interests of neighbors, is built from materials that do not meet SNiP standards, and is located near underground utilities. The optimal solution is registration before the start of work with preliminary design by specialists.
An extension to a house is an excellent solution for expanding the free space in a country house of any type. It is important that all construction work can be completed independently.
Of course, this will require certain construction skills and knowledge of work technologies, but there is nothing particularly difficult about it. The help of specialists may be required at the design stage of the structure, as well as when connecting communications inside the structure. In addition, certain problems often arise when legitimizing an extension with regulatory authorities.
The attachment can perform a variety of functions.
Most often, an extension is built to form an additional room, a summer kitchen, a garage, a veranda, a terrace, a canopy, or a porch. There are a huge number of options - everything will depend on personal requirements and wishes. Of course, building something will be very difficult from a technological point of view, but often all construction is done with one’s own hands.
The main thing here is to correctly construct the foundation, walls, roof, insulate and isolate the room from moisture, and also correctly attach the new foundation to the old one.
Types of extensions for country houses
Before starting any construction work, it is necessary to clearly determine the type of structure, because making an extension to a house is only possible if you have a clear plan and project. There are several of the most common types of extensions in our country:
Canopy
This is the simplest and most inexpensive extension for a country house from all points of view. The main functional task of such a structure is to protect people and things located under the canopy from sunlight, rain and other precipitation. Under such a canopy it will be good to relax in the warm season and have lunch, or you can park your car.
Carport.
An important advantage of installing a canopy is that the construction of a foundation is not required, because support pillars (made of metal, wood, concrete) will act as the base. The canopy frame is attached to these supports.
Summer room
To form a summer room, more capital construction will be required than in the case of a canopy. Such rooms are intended for relaxation in the warm season, gatherings, reading books, etc. Naturally, a foundation will be required.
It is recommended to use a columnar or strip base, depending on the type of building material and the dimensions of the room. To create walls, boards, foam concrete blocks, and frame panels are usually used. For better lighting, the walls and roof, entirely or partially, can be made of glass.
Summer room.
Such an extension usually has a pitched or gable roof. It is recommended to use the lightest roofing material. Installation of thermal insulation materials, as a rule, is not carried out, because such premises are not used during the cold season.
Living room
Before adding a room to the house, it is necessary to complete all the required calculations and draw up a project. In this case, a thorough approach will be required, involving the construction of a foundation, capital construction of walls and roofs, installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, and supply of all necessary communications.
Warm living room.
Particular attention is paid to insulating the premises, so that one could live here in winter without spending a lot of energy on heating.
Kitchen
As a rule, extensions are not intended to accommodate a kitchen. Such a structure must be capital, so it needs to be insulated as efficiently as possible.
Kitchen made of wood.
Such an extension can only be built correctly using a high-quality project created by professionals, because the kitchen needs all communications: sewerage, water supply, electricity, gas, ventilation system. This, of course, leads to serious financial costs, which not everyone is ready for.
Garage
Using an extension to create a garage is a very common trend in recent years. A garage will require the construction of a strip or monolithic foundation, and foam concrete blocks or bricks are usually used to build walls.
Two garages.
The roof, in most cases, is made of profiled sheets or metal tiles, slate or roofing felt. Mandatory communications for a garage are a ventilation system and heating.
Connection of an extension with a country house
Many people spend a long time choosing where to add a new room to their home, so that it would be easier to connect it with the main building. Here you have to choose from two options:
- Independent building. If the area has difficult ground conditions (for example, heaving soils or a high level), then it is recommended to build an independent structure that will not be connected in any way to the main house. In this case, the extension and the main structure have no points of contact, so they do not depend on each other. In this case, the minimum possible distance is maintained between the two buildings, which is a technological gap that must be filled with thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.
- Implementation of an extension to the structure of an old building. This solution involves a certain amount of labor, because construction will require compliance with all the necessary technologies and a lot of calculations and research. First of all, you will need to properly build and insulate the foundation, which must be correctly connected to the base of the country house. This is usually done using reinforced rods. Using approximately the same technology, the walls and roof of structures are connected.
Features of roof construction for an extension to a house
The roof of an extension to a house can have any shape - here again everything will depend on the requirements and wishes of the owners. At the same time, most often country homeowners choose a pitched roof because it is simple to implement, easy to insulate on your own, it combines well with other types of roofs that the main structure may have, and also removes precipitation well, preventing the entire structure from experiencing additional loads.
To ensure that rainfall from the roof of the extension drains normally, the design of the roof involves installing a roof slope of 20 degrees or more.
In addition, special attention must be paid to installing the roof of the extension under the roof of a country house. If everything is done correctly, the wall located between the extension and the country house will be protected from water entering through the joint between the two structures. In addition, the roof of the extension must be extremely harmoniously combined with the roofing material of the main building and fit harmoniously into the exterior of the building, without standing out from the general background.
During the design process, it is very important to correctly calculate the load that the roof structure will provide. The weight of rafters, roofing material and other structural elements used in constructing the roof should be taken into account.
It is important to understand that an extension to a house on screw piles or pillars is not designed for too heavy loads, unlike a monolithic or strip concrete foundation. You also need to insulate the roof (you can insulate it using any suitable thermal insulation materials, with which it is recommended to cover the top with waterproofing).
How to legalize construction?
Building an extension to an old or new country house is half the battle. Any additional premises erected on a land plot must be documented and obtain permission to carry out construction work from regulatory authorities.
An extension to a house with your own hands can be done in any way you like - no one will force you to invite builders, however, the country homeowner must present to the employees of the regulatory services a competently drawn up design of the building.
The procedure for completing all the documentation for an extension to an old country house usually takes from several months to a year.
An interesting point is that you can start collecting documents and obtaining a building permit after all the work is completed. This is permitted by current law.
At the same time, when reviewing documents, employees of the regulatory authority may have some complaints that will have to be corrected (for example, the location of the building relative to underground communications or the use of inappropriate building materials).
Let's consider buildings to the house and not extensions
A pergola is the simplest structure and an excellent place to relax.
A barbecue is a great place for entertaining guests and celebrating.
Quite often it happens that the construction of a private house was carried out without the construction of outbuildings, but then the need for them arose. Modern house designs often assume only the utilitarian function of the house - people will live there. And what if the person will also conduct some kind of economic activity - no. In addition, sometimes there is an urgent need to increase the living space of the house. An extension made of foam blocks, a brick extension, a wooden one - the creation of these structures will help solve this issue once and for all.
Types of extensions
The type of building is determined depending on what exactly should be in it. This could be a room, a toilet, a garage, a kitchen, or anything. By the way, in central Russia you can often find a structure in the form of a greenhouse in which you can grow fruits and vegetables even in winter.
Diagram of the garage-extension
Indeed, in this case, all the necessary engineering communications can be easily extended from the house. Of course, the construction of a structure must be approved, even if we are talking about wooden terraces or simply adding a veranda to the house.
Creating a project and choosing the location of the extension
Projects and construction of such structures involve the following stages:
As for the choice of materials, it is better to be guided by the following rule: you need to create projects and build an extension from the same materials that the house itself consists of.
Construction of a frame house in section
For example, if you need to attach terraces to a wooden house, then it would be better if it was wooden. Of course, this rule cannot always be observed.
Let's say a person wants to raise chickens, he needs a high-quality, windproof, warm brick extension. In this case, this option should be preferred, despite the fact that the house is wooden.
Options for the location of extensions to a standard wooden house
Estimate calculation
Actually, drawing up the estimate itself is not so difficult, it is necessary to take into account the following:
An example of a veranda attached to a wooden house
Construction estimates should be drawn up immediately after the projects are ready, regardless of whether terraces will be added or just wooden utility blocks. This will avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.
Construction of the foundation and connection of the foundation
In Russia, bathhouses are often attached to wooden houses.
Even the construction of an ordinary terrace for a wooden house involves the creation of a new foundation for it. The option of lengthening the old foundation disappears immediately: it is impossible to do this, but connecting both foundations into a single whole later is not only possible, but also necessary.
For example, even for wooden terraces you will need to make exactly the same foundation as the main house. So, first you need to decide on the type of foundation itself.
General diagram of the gable structure of a frame house
Actually, there are 3 foundation options that can be used as a base for an extension:
- Monolithic;
- Columnar;
- Tape.
Columnar foundations are used extremely rarely in Russia, since they can only be installed on very hard soils such as mountains.
It can be used, for example, to build a gazebo, but such structures are usually not attached to the house, but placed next to it. By the way, for a gazebo, instead of a foundation, you can use old tires - this will be quite enough.
Layout diagram for an extension made of foam blocks
For permanent buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mainly prefabricated and monolithic strips or monolithic slab. When using pillars and screw piles, it is necessary to tie it with a grillage, and to protect the space under the floor, cover it with basement siding with insulation made of basalt mineral wool or other similar insulation materials. Along the top of the foundation, horizontal waterproofing from roll waterproofing materials (glass insulation, waterproofing, rubemast or roofing felt) is required.
A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed from wooden blocks filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and lined with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be constructed with window openings. The doorway is more conveniently internal, which allows passage into the attached part without going outside. But an entry device directly from the street is also acceptable.
The roof is most often constructed with a pitched roof. It is important to ensure that snow does not accumulate at the junction, so the roof is made with a slope angle of ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets of monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.
The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wood, lined with porcelain stoneware or tiles. “Warm floors” are often installed.
It is recommended to construct garage walls from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) covered with reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated sheets. It is imperative to provide a number of ventilation holes.
How to connect an extension to a house
Connecting an existing building with an extension is one of the most critical moments of construction. If construction technologies are not followed, cracks will inevitably form in the junctions, opening to large gaps. This is caused by the difference in operating loads and the complete absence or slowdown of settlement of the foundation of the old house.
Connection of the attached part is carried out in the following two options:
- With an expansion joint without direct contact between foundations, walls and roof. Recommended for problem soils (peat or clay). A gap is provided between the structures, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproofing materials. It is permissible to lay a board treated with several layers of bitumen mastic. The resulting seam is covered with decorative inserts. It is imperative to eliminate the possibility of the formation of “snow bags” on the roof at the junction points.
- Inclusion of all constructs in joint work. The new foundation is laid at the same depth as the existing one. It is used on bases made of soils that are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleared of soil and waterproofing layer and a notch is made using a hammer drill. Reinforcing bars are driven tightly into the drilled holes to seal the holes. The resulting embeds are connected by welding to the reinforcement frame of the extension's foundation, and concreting is carried out with thorough compaction of the mixture using an internal vibrator. Brick walls are connected in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are fastened with steel bolts or studs with double-sided threads, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To match the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and jointly fasten the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to construct a common rafter system or replace it with longer elements.
The second option is more complex, labor-intensive and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joints will not come apart over time.
Depending on the design, materials of the existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and thickness of the walls, rafter system and roofing materials for the new building are selected.
Before deciding how to build an extension, you need to provide for all possible nuances of future construction and guarantee to protect yourself from possible administrative sanctions.
Advantages of an extension compared to a free-standing building
- Reducing the amount of work required to install utilities (electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
- Less material consumption and cost of construction, since at least one already existing wall is used.
- Rational use of the territory without cluttering with additional buildings.
- Additional insulation that prevents cold air from penetrating directly into the house and reducing heat losses.
Building a new residential building is an expensive and, to some extent, risky undertaking. Another issue is expanding an existing building to increase usable space. Adding an additional room to a country house or cottage will cost much less than building everything from scratch. But this does not mean that designing and installing a new room is a simple matter; you will encounter a lot of pitfalls along the way. To avoid mistakes, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations on how to make an extension to your house with your own hands and at minimal cost.
How to make an extension
To answer this question, you will have to engage in design, which is where any construction begins. Sketch a plan of the old building to scale, determine the location of the attached room and put it on the drawing. By thinking about the internal layout of the new part, you can determine its exact dimensions. Draw a side view to get an idea of how much headroom you have based on roof slopes.
Important point. Careful drawing and verification with actual dimensions on site will allow you to avoid unpleasant mistakes associated with the size of the part being built, its height and especially the slope of the roof. The minimum roof slope angle is 8°; you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after rain and snowfalls.
A full-fledged project must include material for the construction of an extension. Its choice depends on the purpose of the new room:
- A full room with access to the hallway, equipped with heating and other communications - bedroom, kitchen, bathroom or toilet. This is a permanent structure built from brick, aerated concrete, foam block and their combinations. Timbers such as timber and logs are also suitable.
- Light extensions - veranda, open terrace, vestibule or porch with a polycarbonate canopy. It is better to build such premises on a frame made of wood or metal structures, sheathed with OSB boards with subsequent finishing. The greenhouse and winter garden are made of glass.
- Outbuilding to the house - barn, garage, boiler room. These structures can be both capital and lightweight; the choice of material depends on your desires and capabilities. Common options are cinder block, shell rock and wood. A more progressive solution is sandwich panels with insulation on a rolled metal frame.
- A separate question is what to use to make an extension to the balcony of an apartment building on the first floor. The answer is simple: the same partition must be adjacent to the brick wall so that the structure does not fall out from the exterior of the building. You can use any stone blocks near the panel house, but then they will have to be finished to match the color of the surrounding walls.
Note. Regarding the building materials used, not requirements are listed, but recommendations. You are free to make an extension at your discretion, for example, erect a brick structure near a log house. But such solutions are more difficult to implement, and most importantly, more expensive.
How to make a foundation for an extension
For attached premises, 4 types of foundations are used depending on the weight of the structure and the quality of the soil:
- columnar - for lightweight structures on a wooden frame;
- a pile-screw foundation is used on subsiding soils for the installation of structures made of wood and metal that have a low mass;
- tape - for heavy stone buildings;
- a reinforced concrete monolithic slab is poured over the entire area of the attached part, built from bricks or blocks on unstable soils.
Example of a columnar concrete base
Advice. Modern frame houses are increasingly being placed on screw piles. If this is your case, then the choice of foundation is obvious - a pile-screw foundation; it makes no sense to use another type.
A solid concrete slab is rarely used due to its high cost, and it is better to entrust the driving of screw piles to professionals in this field. To independently build a light veranda or summer gazebo, it is recommended to install a columnar base. For brickwork or walls made of aerated blocks, it is better to pour a concrete strip; we will consider these 2 methods further.
Traditional strip foundation
Columnar base
A properly made foundation of this type is cheaper than tape and is well suited for light buildings. Its construction begins with marking the area and designating the installation points for future vertical frame posts. The pillars, and therefore the soles for them, should be placed in increments of 1.5 m, as shown in the diagram.
The further procedure is as follows:
- Dig square holes measuring 50 x 50 cm at the designated points, going 70-80 cm deep. The task is to place a support on dense, stable soil, so the bottom of the pit needs to be compacted.
- Add 15 cm of sand or fine gravel and compact again. Fill a platform at the bottom using M150 concrete, and after hardening, cover it with roofing felt in 2 layers (waterproofing).
- Lay out 38 x 38 cm square pillars of red ceramic bricks to the required height.
- Apply bitumen primer to the walls of the posts or stick on built-up waterproofing. Place the roofing material on the top of the support again.
- Fill the gaps around the foundation with earth and compact them lightly.
Reference. Foundation pillars for a frame extension can be cast from M200 concrete, but then you will have to install formwork and knit reinforcement mesh.
Strip foundation device
Under this type of foundation you need to dig a trench along the contour of the future room, as shown in the photo below. The width of the ditch should be made 15 cm greater than the thickness of the wall made of brick or foam block. The depth depends on the location of the stable layer of soil and ranges from 50-100 cm. The walls of the pit must be cleaned, and the bottom must be compacted and a sand cushion 100 mm thick must be poured.
Advice. When digging a trench, focus on the depth of the foundation of a private house (if it is reinforced concrete or block). The rubble foundations of very old dwellings can be buried less, so you should not rely on them.
The work order is as follows:
- Compact the poured sand and install wooden panel formwork with external supports and internal braces (possibly from studs with nuts) that do not allow the sides to move under the weight of the concrete. The height of the formwork is not lower than the level of the base of the existing building.
- Tie or weld frames from corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm to form cells 10 x 15 cm. Install them in a trench on supports 50 mm high.
- Prepare concrete mixture M150 in the following proportions: cement M400 - 1 part, dry sand - 3 parts, crushed stone with a fraction of up to 40 mm - 5 volumes.
- Fill the strip foundation layer by layer to the height of the base of the house. It is highly advisable to compact concrete using special vibrators (rent them).
- Remove the formwork after 7 days, and continue work after 3 weeks, when the concrete mixture has hardened.
Advice. To prevent the concrete from losing its milk when pouring and subsequently absorbing moisture, before installing the reinforcement cages, cover the trench with the formwork with plastic film.
If you want to make the extension warm from the beginning, then after the foundation has hardened, insulate it from the outside with polystyrene foam, or better yet, with polystyrene foam. Lay drainage along the bottom of the ditch and fill the sinuses with soil, then cast a blind area with insulation, as shown in the diagram. For an unheated extension, treat the base with bitumen or apply waterproofing (for example, from the well-known brand Technonikol). Place roofing felt in 2 layers on top of the base and begin forming the floors. You will learn about all stages of work by watching the video:
Floor installation
The first stage of building an extension to the house with your own hands is the installation of floors, which come in 2 types:
- flooring on wooden joists;
- cement strainer.
Note. On a columnar foundation, floors can only be built on joists, but on a strip foundation - any floors you can choose from.
The wooden floors of the extension are made using the following technology:
- Place wooden lintels - beams with a minimum cross-section of 10 x 15 cm - on the brick pillars and secure them with anchors. On the corner supports, join them halfway across the tree (how to do this is shown in the photo). Fasten the bars together with steel corners on self-tapping screws.
- Install the logs in the same way.
- If insulation is not required, then lay the subfloor from 40 mm thick boards.
- To insulate floors, nail skull blocks to the bottom of the joists, lay boards and insulation with a vapor barrier on them. Then lay the subfloors.
An example of connecting half-timber beams
To install the screed, the space inside the strip foundation is filled with earth, compacted with water. Fill the recess on top with expanded clay to a height of 20-30 cm and fill the screed. Let it harden for 2-3 days and proceed to the construction of walls.
Construction of extension walls
The procedure for constructing an open veranda or porch depends on the project and design of the structure. But in any case, installation begins with the installation of vertical posts and connecting them together with horizontal jumpers. Here, a wooden beam 10 x 15 cm or steel profile pipes with a cross section of 80 x 60 mm or 60 x 60 mm are most often used.
Reference. Builders of frame houses practice a different technology: the wall sections are assembled entirely on the ground, and then raised and attached to the foundation and to each other.
It is better to join the beams in half a tree or in a groove with steel corners fixed on self-tapping screws, as shown in the diagram. At the top, the pillars are united by a horizontal beam, where the roof rafters will subsequently lie. The ends of this lintel are securely attached to the wall of your home. A cold extension can be immediately lined with OSB boards, which will strengthen the frame. The heated room will need to be insulated with mineral wool 100 mm thick. For more information about the construction of frame walls, watch the video:
The main walls of the extension are built from bricks or blocks according to all the rules of masonry - with bandaging of the seams and checking the vertical. The first row is laid around the entire perimeter, and then you need to form the corners, raising them by 4-5 rows. Next, a wall is built to the same height, after which the action is repeated.
Advice. Connect brick or block masonry to the walls of the house by drilling holes through 2-3 rows and inserting reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm into them.
Roof installation
As a rule, the roof of the extension is made on wooden beams supported by the existing wall of the house and the new partition. The algorithm of actions is as follows:
- Anchor a horizontal board with a thickness of at least 50 mm to the wall of the building to support the rafters. In a stone extension, lay the same boards on top of the walls and secure them.
- Install rafters from boards 15 x 5 cm (minimum section) in increments of 600 mm to match the size of the insulation board. Screw them to the supports using steel angles and self-tapping screws.
- Place waterproofing - a diffusion membrane - over the beams with an overlap of 10 cm and nail it to the rafters with strips.
- Lay the roof covering - slate, metal tiles or corrugated sheets. In order for water to drain properly from the roof, the slate must be placed under the roof overhang of your home.
Simple rafter system for a wooden extension
If necessary, insulate the roof of the extension by inserting mineral wool slabs between the beams at random. Line the insulation from below with a vapor barrier film and sew it with facing material. More information about installing the roof of the extension is described in the video:
Conclusion
It is better to carry out all work on the construction of an extension to the house with an assistant; many operations are inconvenient to perform alone. You can handle a one-story structure without any problems, you just need to allocate time. Don’t forget to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and paint it well so that the frame of the veranda or porch will last for many years.
Related posts:
A frame extension to the main building is the easiest way to increase living space. In this way you can build a living room, technical room or covered veranda. The main thing is to correctly connect the house and its extension.
Selection of foundation and expansion joint
You should initially decide what the extension will be used for. The way of joining the foundation, walls and roof with the old house will depend on this. This is a key point, because with different types of structures they will shrink differently, which can lead to cracks and distortion of the walls of the extension.
If you are planning a living space, be it a kitchen or a bathroom, the extension to the frame house should be of the same type - made of the same materials, with a floor and walls of the same thickness as the main building. If the main foundation is strip, then the new one is joined rigidly, using driven reinforcement, and the formwork is installed close to the wall of the house.
This will allow you not to close the contour of the foundation and not to organize an expansion joint around the entire perimeter. But with a rigid connection, the foundation must be very stable and not sag. Therefore, it is recommended to compact the soil well under the cushion, and make the cushion itself reinforced and 15 cm wider than the foundation strip. In this case, it is better to use crushed stone rather than gravel.
If the weight of the extension and the building is very different, or a different type of foundation is chosen, it is necessary to organize an expansion joint. The extension can be made either in the shape of the letter P, without closing the contour, or by erecting all four walls.
In the first case, the expansion joint is made only at the junction of the house and the extension. This is the most convenient way to connect an extension with your own hands. If the finished foundation is level and strictly vertical, the expansion joint can be made using ordinary roofing felt - it will provide the possibility of vertical displacement of buildings.
Otherwise, it is better to use thicker and more elastic material - foamed polyethylene and expanded polystyrene. The smoother the foundation, the smaller the thickness of the expansion joint. The smooth side of the sheets is placed on the new foundation. The outer part of the seam is filled with sealant and covered with a flashing that is attached only to the existing wall.
A four-sided foundation is needed if there is a risk of strong displacement of the house and the extension - with significantly different weights, heaving soil or an unstable foundation. Then an expansion joint 1-2.5 cm wide is made between the two buildings along the entire perimeter. The walls and roof in this case should not be rigidly connected either.
Construction of walls and their connection to the house
If the house and the extension are on the same foundation and are framed, erecting walls will not be a problem. The section of the beams is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. For example, if a sheet of mineral wool is 15 cm thick, then the beams must be selected with the same cross-section of one of the sides. The main thing is not to confuse which side to attach them to the harness.
The walls are erected in the following order:
1. The lower frame is laid on the foundation. Between the wood and concrete you need to lay waterproofing - roofing felt or foamed polyethylene. The strapping is screwed on with ordinary dowels, and the corners are connected “in half a tree”.
2. If the extension is rigidly attached to the walls of the house, then the vertical beams are simply nailed to the walls, previously leveled. If not, then corner posts are first installed, which can be fixed with temporary bevels.
It is better to make the connection between the strapping and the bars by completely cutting it out and additionally fixing it with metal corners.
3. It is important to choose the right height of the vertical beams - whether the extension will be under a common roof or under a separate one.
4. The upper harness allows you to strengthen the frame and remove temporary cuts. The bars of the upper harness are connected to the vertical ones in the same way as the bottom.
5. After this, you can choose a location for the windows and/or doors. Additional racks are attached along the width of the openings and horizontal lintels are nailed along the height of the window and door.
6. Vertical bars are added in increments of 1 cm smaller than the selected insulation - it should lie as tightly as possible. You can also add horizontal jumpers, which will strengthen the entire structure - the distance between them is also 1 cm less than the height of the insulation if it is supplied in sheets rather than rolls.
It is important to remember that when using laminated veneer lumber, windows and doors cannot be installed immediately. The structure may shrink. Sheathing of the assembled frame is done after the roofing is installed.
Sometimes the frame of an extension to a house is assembled separately, installing entire blocks on the bottom frame at once. This is very convenient for large structures - there is no need to fasten each vertical beam with temporary slopes and constantly work at height.
An expansion joint should be installed along the entire wall being added, if the foundation has a closed contour, or only at the junction of the walls of the house and the extension. The requirements for it are the same as for a foundation seam - an elastic seal is used inside, and the outer edge is treated with sealant.
The rafters of the extension are laid with the lower end on the upper frame, and the upper end is connected to the roof rafters or rests on a purlin nailed to the wall of the house. If the rafters are rigidly connected to the wall of the extension, the roof may not be able to withstand shrinkage and the upper fastenings will break off. Or the wall of the extension will begin to lean inward. Therefore, it is better to use movable joints to freely move the lower support.
For a roof with insulation, in addition to the horizontal lathing, a vertical counter-latten is also made, as well as additional lathing on the inside. If metal tiles are used, they can be laid directly on the sheathing, and for soft tiles, a moisture-resistant OSB board is mounted on the sheathing.
In the first case, the wall of the house is covered with a galvanized apron, bent at an angle and fixed on top of the roof of the extension. This will protect the wall from rain and the roofing pie from dampness.
In the second case, the roof will be common and will have to be completely re-roofed.
Wall cladding and insulation
After installing the roof, you can begin covering the walls. Despite the popular advice to first cover the walls with boards or OSB sheets for structural strength, doing this under the roof is much more convenient. First, the exterior of the extension is sheathed.
If non-glued laminated timber was used, then windows and doors are installed at the same stage. It is better to order a double-glazed window ready-made - with a double chamber for better thermal insulation. If you plan to install a door, it is better to hang it right away. The second post is adjusted to the door. Installing windows and doors before insulation allows you to fit the horizontal lintels and racks as tightly as possible to the openings.
After the external cladding, insulation is laid and the extension is sheathed from the inside. You can use the same OSB boards, plasterboard or lining. At the same stage, the roof is insulated - waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier are laid under the sheathing. Additional sheathing and internal lining are mounted on top.
For a living space, it is necessary to insulate the extension from the outside as well. The easiest way is foam plastic boards, which are attached to the wall using foam and screwed with self-tapping screws.
To prevent the screws from falling into the foam, rectangular or round spacers are used. Another trick is to ensure that the window slopes are even, the slabs are attached to the window frame with the side with the factory cuts and with a slight overlap.
Door slopes can be damaged during operation, so it is better to screw a beam as thick as insulation around the perimeter of the door with self-tapping screws. The ebb on the window can be attached with polyurethane foam, which can also be used to fill all the cracks. After this, a reinforcing mesh and reinforcing mortar are laid on the foam plastic, and all corners are reinforced with metal corners.
Floor installation in a frame extension
The floor for a small extension on a strip foundation could be filled with cement-sand screed. To do this, the entire perimeter inside the foundation was filled with brick rubble and compacted. You can lay tiles on top of such a floor - the best option for technical rooms.
If you are planning a living space, or a columnar foundation is chosen, it is best to install a wooden floor on joists.
For a strip foundation, the space under the floor should be insulated. The soil is selected to a depth of 25 cm and a layer of crushed stone is first poured into the resulting hole, compacted, a layer of sand is poured on top, moistened and compacted again. Brick pillars are placed on the resulting cushion - the logs will rest on them.
The advantage of flooring on joists is its multi-layer nature. Between the rough and finished floor there is a layer into which the insulation is laid. This allows you to create a truly warm floor that you don’t have to walk on with shoes on.
The video provides a detailed overview of the finished frame of the house extension:
Solving the housing problem if you have your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:
- full-fledged living space - additional room;
- living space with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
- utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace a cellar;
- a spacious terrace or veranda where you can relax with the whole family;
- garage for cars.
Below we will discuss the basics of the technology and step-by-step instructions for creating an extension to a wooden house.
Before choosing a specific building material and technology for constructing an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. Perhaps you should immediately plan to create an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case the family expands or a large number of guests arrive.
Types of extensions
There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:
- frame extensions;
- from cylindrical timber;
- made of brick;
- from cinder block.
Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and the specific type of extension:
Making the right choice of a specific extension project means correctly correlating the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structure is built.
Do-it-yourself frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video
A frame extension has a number of advantages:
- the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
- it is erected much faster than brick and cinder block structures;
- the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
- In terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, a frame extension to a house is not inferior to others types of structures.
NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risk of subsidence is noticeably reduced.
Preparation for construction
At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:
- What will the frame material be - wooden beams or metal profiles?
- What type of extension will be connected to the main building?
- Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
- Collect all necessary materials and tools.
First of all, it is important to decide what type of structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof to install a single roof, or as an adjacent building.
It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, simpler and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and install a door.
A diagram of the connection between the structure and the house is presented below.
Structurally, this solution consists of a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly made of rafters and support boards. For a longer service life, it is advisable to insulate it and lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on a regular strip foundation.
Interface with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:
- wall;
- roof.
The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical tips to consider before starting work:
At the same time, for the roof of the extension it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated sheeting (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.
In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles and metal tiles are not suitable.
The frame is made of wood or metal. In this case, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.
NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but quite old, the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than the subsidence of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of connection of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - “groove-ridge”.
As for tools, you don’t need any special equipment: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other tools for working with wood.
Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.
Laying the foundation
The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the vast majority of cases, the construction of a house does not involve the construction of a foundation for an extension, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.
NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, and laying the foundation along with the foundation of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.
The main requirements for the base of the extension are the following:
- reliability – stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
- maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and laying depth;
- the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.
Most often, strip foundations are chosen for extensions, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. However, installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, and fill them with drainage materials.
Schematic diagrams of the bases are presented in the figure.
The technology for constructing a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and filled with concrete.
Connecting the foundation to the main one
This is the most critical stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of connections are used:
- "tape-tape";
- "slab-slab".
According to the “tape-to-tape” type, the stages of work will be as follows:
- On the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of the main foundation.
- Next, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
- The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house; a wooden wedge is used for this.
- The foundation of the extension is formed using the driven reinforcement.
Installation according to the “slab-to-slab” scheme is possible in 2 cases:
- the width of the main foundation allows for appropriate work (from 450 mm);
- the plate protrudes from the base (at least 300 mm).
Thanks to an extension, it is often possible to solve another important problem - strengthening the old foundation and thereby supporting a sagging house. Visual video instructions:
Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:
Installation of flooring in an extension
Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:
- thermal insulation;
- surface evenness.
It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.
The strip foundation allows you to install both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is only possible to produce a wooden covering.
Concrete floor
The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:
The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.
Wooden floor
A floor created on the basis of wooden floors is perfect for a columnar or strip foundation. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.
The installation sequence for a wooden floor looks like this:
- If an extension to a house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work is carried out to lay sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as in the case of a concrete floor.
- A roofing felt substrate is placed on the foundation.
- Load-bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the pillars, the length is adjusted in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
- A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.
All wooden parts must be carefully treated with varnish to prevent rotting.
A clear example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.
Frame installation
The next stage is associated with the direct construction of the frame structure. To do this, you first need to install the strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.
The end result is a design that looks something like this.
Cutting out the groove in the base can be done completely or incompletely. Can be jointed without cutting using a steel angle.
The lower harness is performed in several stages:
- The nest is mounted in the insert.
- The overlay is nailed into the base.
- The support post is secured with a bracket.
The top trim is formed for reliable installation of the floor beams, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. The interval between the vertical supports should be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation materials (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.
The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.
The construction of walls occurs according to the following algorithm:
- Installation of a pre-fabricated lower trim on the foundation. The harness is screwed using dowels.
- Vertical beams are nailed to the wall of the house if rigid fastening of two structures is expected. If you just need to build a nearby building, then first make corner posts with temporary fastening.
- Vertical bars are installed. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection to the main roof of the house.
- Next, the top trim is mounted.
- The last stage in installation is making holes for windows and doors.
A waterproofing layer - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material - must be placed between the piping and the foundations.
ADVICE. If you plan to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the beams on the lower frame. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element using temporary slopes.
Assembling the roof and connecting it to the main roof
Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a regular roof, however, the need to connect the roof with the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.
In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.
After erecting the frame, the roof material of the house on the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to place an additional beam in front of the acute corner (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, which is why they are also called snow supports.
The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:
- The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper frame frame.
- The upper end of the rafters is connected to a purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or attached directly to the roof rafters.
Video installation features
NOTE. You should not connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven rates of shrinkage of the main room and the extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that ensures free movement of the lower support.
Finishing and insulation of the roof
At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.
NOTE. If the roof of the extension simply adjoins the wall of the house, and does not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.
Construction and insulation of walls
One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create sufficiently good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.
The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.
In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be done:
- finishing work inside the extension:
- exterior cladding of the building;
- creating a transition to the house;
- production of windows and doors in the building;
- carrying out all necessary communications.
It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.
Timber extension
The fundamental stages of constructing an extension (pouring the foundation, constructing walls and installing the roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.
Construction of the foundation
In the case of an extension made of timber (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base needs to be more reliable.
Often a tiled foundation or a pile foundation is used, less often a strip foundation (for small extensions it is quite suitable). In any case, it must be established for at least 1 year.
From the point of view of simplicity and cost reduction of work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.
Video - basic technology for installing a pile foundation
Walling
Building walls is quite simple from a technological point of view. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it.
The fastening materials used are:
metal staples and plates;
- brackets;
- steel corners;
- self-tapping screws, screws, nails.
Technology for laying round timber when building an extension to a house:
Other works
The technology of wall construction, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.
In the case of building a structure from timber, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.
Brick extension
Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less frequently. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.
Most often in such cases a monolithic foundation is used. In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second similar floor or attic. Installation of floor and roof technology is not fundamentally different from those discussed above.
Cinder block extension
And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks and gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.
The construction of a cinder block structure occurs very quickly due to the large size of the building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy or veranda.
And finally, a short video overview of the main stages of constructing a frame extension to a wooden house.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
Over time, a private house needs to expand - there is a need to expand the kitchen, add a veranda, or arrange an additional room. Therefore, the owner of the house has a question - how to make an extension to the house with your own hands? Below are the stages of construction using frame technology.
Advantages of frame technology
A frame extension to a house has important advantages:
- low cost and minimal amount of building materials;
- work is completed quickly;
- there is no need to build a massive foundation.
Diagrams and drawings of the extension project are understandable to any novice builder. The technology is similar to assembling a construction set, but the end result is a comfortable and cozy additional room.
Preparatory work
The construction of an extension to the house begins with preparatory activities. Carefully inspect the construction site, remove all debris and vegetation from it, mark the area and stock up on the following materials and tools:
- metal pipes for supports;
- components for concrete mixture - sand, cement, gravel;
- self-tapping screws, nails, metal corner for fastening;
- boards for logs 5 cm thick and 15 cm wide;
- perfectly processed boards for finishing flooring;
- natural wooden lining for walls;
- block 50 mm;
- concrete mixer;
- hammer, screwdriver, building level, rope and circular saw;
- block house under a log for cladding the extension outside;
- metal tiles for the roof.
Be sure to provide a drainage system under the extension. To do this, compact the soil under the veranda and make a slope in this place to allow water to drain. Below are step-by-step instructions for constructing an extension.
Step-by-step instructions for building an extension to a house
1. Installation of supports. Nail a wooden board at least 5 cm wide to the wall of the house, which will become a support. Along the edges of the marked area for construction, install wooden structures - “castoffs”. They need to be installed a little further than the marked area. Stretch a strong rope over them. Make sure the dimensions of the markings are correct so that everything is at right angles.
2. Dig a trench along the width of the foundation, one meter deep. Prepare a cement mixture of sand, gravel and cement with the addition of water. Make wooden formwork. Start installing support pillars, make the distance between the pillars no more than 1.5 m. Place a cushion of gravel about 10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench. Cut the pipes in advance and install them vertically in the hole, fixing them with boards. Next, fill the gaps between the support posts and the walls of the trench with the prepared solution. To ensure that the vertical position of the pipe in the pit is not disturbed, secure the supports with spacers and wait three days for the solution to harden. After it hardens, the formwork can be removed.
3. Creating a floor. At the next stage of creating an extension to a wooden house with your own hands, take boards for the joists. Two boards are mounted to the supports with metal fastening corners at the end of the extension - place the rest between them. When installing joists, do not forget to check their horizontal position with a level. Transverse logs are mounted using 120 mm nails and grooves to the longitudinal part of the extension foundation.
4. Installation of the base for the walls and roof. The work begins with screwing the beams to the base of the floor using dowels and a hammer drill. The side beams are nailed to the walls. Videos and photos of this work can be found in our article. The stability of the structure is ensured by diagonal beams laid at the outer corners. Don't forget to mark the door and window openings. The entire structure is reinforced with transverse insert lintels. From the outside, the base of the extension is covered with a block house. It is advisable to lay a layer of glassine on the sheathing boards before covering; it will protect the building from moisture.
5. Arrangement of the roof. After installing windows and doors, the roof is covered with metal tiles. Cover the area where the roof adjoins the building with a galvanized iron apron.
6. Interior work. A do-it-yourself extension to the house will soon be built, only interior work remains. The walls and ceiling are covered with natural wooden paneling. Before this, they can be insulated with penofol. To create a floor, you first need to make a rough floor. A rough block is laid on the sides of the floor joists, and edged boards are laid on it. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed on them, and then proceed with the installation of the finished floor.
We hope that our instructions helped you learn how to build an extension to your house. If you carefully study the sequence of work and properly prepare building materials and tools, as well as be patient, you can easily make a beautiful veranda yourself.