Correct installation of underfloor heating. How to make a heated floor from heating - connection options What to make heated floors from

There is no need to talk about the comfort of using heated floors; this type of heating is very popular in private homes, as it is effective and has high efficiency. Despite the fact that this type of work is not much more difficult than others related to arranging maximum convenience and comfort of one’s own home, few know how to make a heated floor with their own hands.

Let's consider the theoretical and practical questions related to independent calculation and installation of water floor heating in small residential or office spaces.

Preparatory work and calculation of materials

Such a responsible job as installing a heated floor with your own hands should begin with the preparation of materials and planning. Strictly speaking, an accurate calculation can only be made by specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in this room. But for individual needs, approximate calculations are often used that satisfy the requirements.

First you need to draw a plan for the placement of pipes. The clearest and most visual diagram will be a diagram drawn on paper in a checkered pattern, the warm floor on which can be calculated based on the square footage of the room. Each cell will correspond to a pitch - the distance between the pipes.

For temperate climate zone:

• If the house and windows are well insulated, the distance between adjacent turns of the pipe can be 15-20 cm;
• If the walls are not insulated, 10-15 cm.
• In spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold and some are warm, a variable step is taken: near the cold walls the distance between adjacent turns of pipes is small, and as you approach warm walls- it is increased.

What flooring is suitable for heated floors?

A big mistake is made by those who plan to lay parquet or thick wooden flooring on a warm floor. Wood is a poor conductor of heat and will prevent the room from heating up. The efficiency of such heating may be even lower than that of radiator heating, and heating costs may be too high.

The ideal covering for a heated floor is stone, ceramic or porcelain tiles. Once warmed up, it will keep warm perfectly, and this the best option for the kitchen or bathroom. Children love to play in rooms where the floor is warm, and it’s more pleasant to walk barefoot there than in wooden parquet.

Slightly worse option flooring, but more suitable for a guest room or bedroom - linoleum and laminate. These materials transmit heat well and will not reduce the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate should be chosen minimum thickness, and linoleum - without an insulating substrate.

When heated, many synthetic materials may emit harmful fumes. Therefore, floor coverings with chemical components must have a manufacturer’s mark indicating the possibility of their use in residential premises on heated floors.

Base for heated floors

If we are talking about a house with concrete floors, then the most affordable and generally accepted option is a water-heated concrete screed. The same method is used for the first (ground) floors of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses with wooden floors, this option is not applicable. Wooden beams the floors simply will not withstand the enormous weight of the concrete screed, no matter how thin it is. In this case, a lightweight version of heated floors is used, which will be discussed in a separate section.

Installing a heated floor with your own hands begins with preparing the base. The base for creating a warm floor must be flat, without protrusions and depressions. Maximum permissible difference is 5 mm. If the depth of surface defects reaches 1-2 cm, then you will have to pour and level thin layer granite screenings (fine crushed stone) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. You will have to lay a film on top of the leveling layer and, when laying the thermal insulation, walk on wooden shields. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will become a source of unevenness.

Laying schemes for water heated floors

The most common layouts for laying water floors are snail and spiral. The snail evenly heats the entire floor area. But with a spiral design, it is possible to provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first branches of the pipe through which hot water is supplied are laid there. Based on the finished drawing, the exact length of the pipe is determined.

For heated floors, only a single piece of pipe is used! If the room area is very large, several heating circuits are planned. The pipe length of each circuit should not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, the pressure required for normal speed coolant flow. In area this corresponds to 15 sq.m.

It is best to make a water floor with your own hands from a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. It bends easily with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a cross-linked polyethylene pipe. It is not advisable to use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. A larger diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, and this has a bad effect on the efficiency of the heating system.

Typically pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. area is:

• 10 m at 10 cm increments;
• 6.75 m at 15 cm pitch.

Selection of thermal insulation and fasteners for water heated floors

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, a layer of dense foam is placed on the base. The density of the insulation is selected to be at least 25, and better yet, 35 kg/cub.m. Lighter polystyrene foam will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

Optimal thickness insulation - 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if increased protection from the cold is necessary, when the level below is an unheated room, the thickness of the thermal insulation can be increased to 10 cm. To reduce heat losses- it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized film on top of the insulation. It could be:

• Penofol (metalized polyethylene foam);
• Reflective foam screen glued behind radiators;
• Regular aluminum food foil.

The metallized layer is quickly destroyed by the aggressive action of concrete, so the screen itself also needs protection. Such protection is provided by polyethylene film, which is used for greenhouses and in greenhouse farming. The film thickness should be 75-100 microns.

In addition, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its hardening. The pieces of film must be overlapped, and the joint must be sealed with tape.

Fastening connections for water heating pipes

Pipe fasteners are installed on the thermal insulation. Its purpose is to secure adjacent branches of the pipe and position it along the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary plan. The fastener holds the pipe until the concrete screed reaches the desired degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates floor installation and guarantees correct placement pipes in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can be special metal strips, metal welded mesh, plastic staples that secure the pipe to the foam base.

1. Metal strips are used when the thickness of the concrete pad is increased. They slightly raise the pipe relative to the heat insulator, due to which it is closer to the upper surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the shaped recesses of the strips.
2. Metal grid not only secures the pipe, but also reinforces the layer of concrete pad. The pipe is tied to the mesh with pieces of wire or plastic clamps. Fastener consumption is 2 pcs. on linear meter. Additional fasteners can be used in places where there are curves.
3. Plastic brackets are installed manually. They pin the pipe to the polystyrene foam as it is laid. Do-it-yourself semi-industrial heated floors are made using a special stapler. But its purchase is justified only with intensive professional use.

IN last years Manufacturers of underfloor heating systems began to offer another very convenient solution. We are talking about special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. Typically, the surface of such sheets consists of intersections of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes are easily laid.

The surface of the sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed and no additional waterproofing film is required. Having a special thermal cutter, you can cut grooves in polystyrene foam yourself. But to carry out this work you need at least minimal experience.

Metal-plastic pipes are supplied in coils. When laying, the coil rolls out along the pipe placement path. Do not pull the pipe from a lying coil, as this will cause it to twist and may lead to delamination of the internal layers.

Selecting a recipe, preparing and pouring concrete

Pipes can only be poured with concrete after they have been completely laid, connected to the collectors and filled with water under a pressure of 4 bar. Before pouring, it is necessary to maintain the pipe under this pressure for a couple of days. If a leak is discovered, it is repaired immediately. If the heating system itself has not yet been installed, instead of water, air is pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure is fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after injection, the pressure may drop slightly due to straightening of the pipes. During pouring and hardening of concrete, the pressure is monitored using a connected pressure gauge.

To compensate for thermal expansion, we attach a damper tape along all walls. The thermal expansion of the concrete pad is 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature of 40 degrees. If the heating is only 20 degrees, the expansion will accordingly be half as much. We multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.

For ordinary apartments, as a rule, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and when door threshold. In addition, the damper tape also plays the role of thermal insulation of the walls from the heated floor. This method eliminates cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat loss.

Additionally, in some cases expansion stitches are made:

• if the length of any side of the room is more than 8 meters;
• the width and length of the room differ by more than twice;
• floor area exceeds 30 sq.m.;
• the shape of the room has several bends.

For extended heated floors, an expansion joint with a damper tape is installed every 10 m. To prevent the movement of concrete pads in these places from breaking the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation (preferable) or a larger diameter pipe is placed on it. The penetration of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m on each side.

If, according to the placement scheme, there is an accumulation of warm pipes in one place (for example, near the collector), then a heat insulating sleeve must be put on some of the pipes. This will help avoid local overheating and retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

How to make a water heated floor: concreting

If concrete for pouring is not brought in, but is prepared on site, then the following components will be required:

• cement grade 300 or 400 - 1 part by weight;
• washed river sand - 1.9 parts per hour;
• crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 w.p.

This is a composition of heavy concrete. Its weight reaches 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. finished material.

Many people prefer to avoid sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are also used. Its composition:

• granite crushed stone 5-20 mm - 2 buckets;
• cement - 1 bucket;
• small granite screening up to 5 mm - 4 buckets;
• water - 7 l (you can add another 1 l if the solution is very thick).

Granite conducts heat well, and such concrete has a much lower thermal resistance. It is also recommended to introduce reinforcing fiber into the composition, which is small plastic fibers.

Any self-leveling floor must contain a plasticizer. The specific amount depends on the specific brand and purpose of this drug. The plasticizer should not be just any plasticizer, but specifically for heated floors!

If the pipe was attached to strips or brackets, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it. The height of the concrete screed is selected from 5 to 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer is fraught with cracking. And a concrete pad that is too thick increases heat transfer losses.

With the right choice of concrete and normal temperature, it begins to set within 4 hours. For supporting normal humidity it should be covered with a waterproof film, and when the surface dries, water it with water. After just 12 hours, hardened concrete can support the weight of a person. But its full ripening occurs only after 28 days. All this time you need to take care of humidity and maintain high pressure in the laid pipes. Only after the specified period has passed can the first thermal test of this floor be carried out.

Both during the first test and subsequently, it is impossible to quickly heat the water-heated floor to a high temperature!

Flooring

You can glue tiles and other floor coverings onto the finished concrete base. In this case, glue intended for heated floors is used. If the tile falls on an expansion joint, then one part of it must be glued, and the second must be placed on silicone. Silicone adhesive absorbs thermal movements of the base, and the tile will not crack from overstress.

Lightweight heated floors for wooden floors

As mentioned earlier, for wooden floors a light heated floor without a concrete pad is installed. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly depending on the condition of the old floor and the design of the ceiling.

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, insulation is placed under the pipes. It can be placed between the floor joists, and then it is better to use mineral wool, or it can be laid on an old durable subfloor - here you will need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg/cub.m. To prevent condensation from forming, a vapor barrier membrane is placed under the mineral wool. The first subfloor is placed on top of the joists.

Just as for a concrete floor, it is advisable to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foil or foam foam on the insulation. All joints and seams must be sealed with tape.

The logs are laid directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. There should be gaps of about 2 cm between the boards for laying the pipe. Similar gaps must be provided at the ends of the subfloor boards. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can lead to breakage of the boards.

To ensure that heat is evenly distributed across the floor, the pipe is placed not just in grooves, but in special metal gutters designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat over its entire surface and evenly heats the final finish. Recommendations for its choice have already been given above - it can be a laminate with permission to work with heating or hard polymer coating. Thick parquet and parquet board Least suitable for heated floors.

Compared to concrete heated floors, lightweight construction is much faster and costs significantly less. Another advantage is the ability to repair water pipes in the event of an accident. Problems with tubes in concrete floor can only be eliminated by replacing it completely.

The main disadvantage of a wooden heated floor is the significantly smaller thermal power.

Power the heated floor from heating apartment buildings is possible only with the permission of the heat energy supplier. All recommendations remain in force, although we personally recommend installing a heat-resistant water filter at the pipe inlet.

Bottom line

Properly equipped warmth in your own home is another step towards comfortable and convenient living conditions for the whole family. But, even if you are not able to complete these works and are forced to invite craftsmen, the knowledge gained will allow you to take an active part in this process.

This method of heating rooms, such as water floor heating, has long been firmly established in our lives among other methods, and has gained considerable popularity. Its essence is that the coolant warms up the entire area of ​​the floor covering, thereby ensuring comfortable temperature in the room.

There is another type of this heating method - electric heated floors, although they are less common. The reason is simple: you can heat the water different methods using various coolants, but with electric heating there is no such choice, and in the event of a power outage, the heat in the house will disappear. In any case, electric and water system Floor heating today does not lose its relevance.

Underfloor heating: advantages and disadvantages

Surely no one will argue with the fact that the heating system warm floors– the best of all existing ones. If we take the traditional one for comparison radiator system and air heating of the house, then heating the floors has advantages over them:

1. Economical. The coolant temperature in the circuits rarely reaches 50-55 ºС, while in other systems it can reach 95 ºС. Accordingly, heating water to 50 ºС will require lower costs.
2. Comfort. During the cold season, there is nothing more pleasant for a person than the feeling of warmth in the legs.
3. Uniform distribution of heat flow throughout the room.
4. Each water floor heating system is inertial. After a long “acceleration”, the screeds heated by the water circuits release heat slowly and long after the energy source is turned off.
5. Long-lasting operation. The result of correctly performed work from materials High Quality The system will operate for up to 50 years.

You can install heating circuits anywhere in your home, even water heated floors on the balcony.

Distribution of air masses in a room by temperature when using various heating methods.

Despite all the advantages, heating a house with warm floors has some disadvantages that deserve attention. For example, there is a misconception that such a heating device will completely rid you of radiators. In some cases this is indeed possible, but not always.

The fact is that to heat a room, it is necessary that each m2 of floor area emit approximately 100 W of thermal energy. If the house is well insulated, then for such heat release the surface temperature must be at least 35 ºС, in other cases – 40 ºС and higher. The graph below shows statistics on what proportion of people and how they react to an increase in floor surface temperature.

As can be seen from the graph, the comfort zone for most people lies within the temperature range from 20 to 30 ºС. When water heating in the floor heats it over the entire area to a temperature of 35 ºС and above, then at least 60% of people feel discomfort.

For reference. Normative documents, regulating sanitary and hygienic standards in buildings for various purposes (SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating and Ventilation”, clause 6.5.12), clearly prescribes that the surface temperature in rooms with constant occupancy of people cannot exceed 26 ºС, and with temporary stay – 31 ºС.

From the above, the conclusion is the following: if heating under the floor from pipes heats its surface to a temperature of 26 ºС, then the heat transfer will not reach 100 W/m2. Then the thermal power of the system will not be enough and you will still have to install additional small radiators.

The second significant drawback stems from design features systems and labor costs for their implementation is a fairly high price for underfloor heating with water heating. In addition to heating circuits, you will need equipment and fittings to regulate the coolant and pump it through the pipelines of these circuits.

Advice. In order not to have to deal with additional laying of branches for water heating devices, it is worth considering other heat sources, for example, local air supply units with air heating, long-wave infrared emitters, electric or gas convectors.

How to calculate the power of a heated floor

Since floor heating in a private house or apartment is an expensive thing, its installation should be approached with the utmost seriousness. If, if you have certain construction skills, installation work If you can do it yourself, then to develop a diagram and carefully calculate it, it is recommended to contact specialists in this field. They will also help produce commissioning works in accordance with calculations.

If you have the desire and time to figure it out on your own, then first of all you should know that calculating the power of a heated floor begins with selecting the diameter of the pipe for the heating circuits, then you need to find the step of its installation and determine the number of these circuits. At this moment all calculations required power heating systems must be produced and heat output values ​​obtained for each room of the building.

For example, the value of a ceramic tile floor area is 10 m2, and the required power is 981 W. Then the required heat flow will be 98.1 W/m2; from this value it is necessary to find out the surface temperature, which will ensure water heating of the floor under the tiles. This can be done using a nomogram.

It can be seen that a heat transfer value of 100 W/m2 corresponds to a temperature of 28.8 ºС. In our case, this is unacceptable, since people are constantly in the room, which means we need 26 ºС. This value corresponds to a heat transfer of 68 W/m2, and the remaining 100 - 68 = 32 W/m2 will have to be supplied to the room in other ways. How to use the nomogram is shown below.

In this example, the suitable pitch for laying the heating circuit pipes is 0.3 m, according to which the average calculated temperature difference is 19.5 ºС, which corresponds to temperature chart coolant – 45/35 ºС. It remains to find out the length of the pipe, for normal operation system, its length cannot exceed 100 m. The formula is simple.

Pipe length = room area / pipe laying pitch.

If the value exceeds 100 m, then the area must be divided into 2 parts and two heating circuits must be calculated, otherwise the hydraulic resistance will be too large and the heat transfer will be uneven. The heat transfer of a surface depends on the types of flooring, so nomograms are shown below for convenience, which will help calculate heated floors for laminate and linoleum.

Note. A detailed calculation of the power of underfloor heating is presented in an understandable manner in the book by V.V. Pokotilov “Water Heating Systems”.

Let us immediately make a reservation that the technology for installing water floors for heating differs in the following cases:

• work is carried out from the ground level, from the soil layer;
• installation occurs from the basement floor or rough concrete screed;
• water floor in an apartment or on the 2-3 floor of a private house.

The differences will be highlighted during the review of work technology. When the device starts from the ground, it should be compacted and a rough concrete screed should be completed according to all the rules. Ideally, the screed should gain strength within three weeks, but since during installation the loads will be significantly lower than the calculated ones, you can wait 3-5 days, after which you need to make a waterproofing layer on top. The result should be Smooth surface without drops and other rough irregularities.

Next, the installation of water heating in a private house or apartment will be described using the technology of the company AQUATHERM, which is one of the leaders in the market of underfloor heating systems. General scheme"pie" is presented below.

Water heating device inside the floor

First, the walls are covered with an elastic damper strip along the entire perimeter; it allows future heating plates to expand within 5 mm in each direction. Thermal insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing film, usually high-density polystyrene foam. At elevated fire safety requirements to floors as thermal insulation material slabs made of basalt fiber should be used.

If water heating is being installed in a private house on the ground floor, then the thickness of the insulation layer is taken according to calculation, but not less than 50 mm. In the case when work is carried out in an apartment above the first floor or on upper floors cottage, then the thickness can be reduced to 20-40 mm, since the temperature difference between apartments is small.

It is recommended to lay a special polyethylene film with markings on top of the heat-insulating layer; it is more convenient to lay out and install pipes along it. The material is rolled out with an overlap of 80 mm, after which the joints are taped.

If subsequently increased static or dynamic loads on the floors are expected in the room (heavy furniture, equipment, etc.), then it is recommended to lay meshes of reinforcement with a diameter of 5 mm on top of the insulation, and attach the pipes to them with plastic clamps.

Metal-plastic or other pipes for heated floors are attached to the insulation with special plastic brackets, the layout is carried out in calculated increments according to a pre-agreed scheme, of which there are several to choose from.

Pipe layout options

At the same time, the bending radii of the pipes must be observed so as not to damage their structure; for each type of pipeline, this data will be provided by the sales representative.

The AQUATHERM company offers for its systems not metal-plastic materials, but pipes made of polyethylene and polybutylene with a diameter of 14, 16, 17 and 20 mm with a minimum bending radius of 80 mm.

From the home boiler installation, the coolant is supplied to a rod distributor assembled complete with a circulation pump. This mixing unit provides required temperature and the movement of the coolant in all heating elements, from which the heated floor is distributed throughout the rooms. If necessary, the distributor can regulate the room climate based on signals room thermostats, in its simplest form it maintains the temperature in the supply pipe using a clamp-on sensor.

Important! It is prohibited to connect the central water heating of apartments to the floor heating distributor. This will unbalance the entire riser and as a result everyone will be cold. Connection is only possible to an individual boiler.

After securely fastening the pipes and checking them for leaks (pressure tests), the installation of heated floors continues with the device sand-cement screed, whose thickness is within 100 mm, the layer of solution above the top of the pipe is provided with a thickness of 50-55 mm. The screed is kept until it hardens, and during setting, false seams are created in it (between the contours of one room) and deformation seams (at the joints of slabs in different rooms). Lastly, the coating is laid, after which only commissioning and balancing of the system remains.

Conclusion

Warm water floors are not a cheap pleasure; at all stages of work on their installation there will be responsible work. But the result will be significant savings(up to 30%) and high level comfort in the home.

Warm water floors are comfortable and convenient, especially if they do not require the installation of a hot water boiler. In houses with radiator heating, you can connect heated floors to heating system– this will allow you to make water-heated floors without extra costs.

Project implementation

To install heated floors powered by a heating system, a number of conditions are required. The heating system must be equipped with a circulation pump. In its absence, it is easier to spend money and install a pump than to install a gravity system with a consistent slope of the floor contour. The system can be either one-pipe or two-pipe. With a single-pipe system, the supply pipe for the heated floor is connected after the circulation pump, and the return pipe is connected in front of the pump.

It is also necessary to calculate the length of the contours. For a two-pipe system it should be no more than 50 meters, for a one-pipe system - no more than 30 meters. If the room heating circuit is larger, it is necessary to divide it into several circuits arranged in different zones or in parallel.

Floor preparation

To avoid heat loss and not to heat the floor slabs, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the subfloor before installing the heating circuit.

1. If there is already a floor covering on the floor, it must be removed, the cracks must be filled with cement mortar, and the floor surface must be leveled using cement mortar or a thin layer of clean coarse sand. The floor surface must be checked using a level to ensure there are no distortions - if the heated floor contour is laid unevenly, areas with stagnation of coolant will form, which will worsen heat transfer.
2. It is necessary to install around the perimeter of the room, as well as at the junction of the heating circuits. The tape is available in various widths, with or without an adhesive layer. The width of the tape must be selected so that it is higher than the calculated height of the concrete screed. The mounting method is chosen depending on the wall finish. TO smooth walls The tape can be glued using an adhesive layer. The damper tape is attached to rough surfaces with dowel nails for quick installation. The tape is necessary to ensure that the screed does not collapse when heating and cooling the floor.

   

3. After this, it is necessary to lay solid thermal insulation on the floor, which will not allow heat to escape downwards. This can be extruded polystyrene in the form of plates or rolled polyethylene foam with a foil coating. The slabs are laid end-to-end, avoiding gaps and cracks. Roll materials They are also placed end to end, and the joints are sealed with metallized tape. Due to their small thickness, roll materials are rarely used, only if, due to the small height of the room, the use of thicker insulation is impossible. A layer is laid on top of the insulation polyethylene film thickness from 200 microns - it is necessary in order to create better conditions for drying of the concrete screed and prevent concrete leakage.

   

4. Reinforcement is laid on the floor. This can be a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10 cm or more, or a mesh made of 6-8 mm rods, connected at the intersections with wire. The mesh is laid on plastic guides to create a gap between the reinforcement and the base.
5. To create a warm water floor from heating, special polystyrene slabs with bosses are convenient - they are designed for laying a water circuit and do not require the installation of guides. Please note that when laying polystyrene with bosses it is necessary to use metal-plastic pipes, not polyethylene, and install the fittings after laying the water circuit.

   

Laying the water circuit and pouring the screed

After preparing the floor, it is necessary to lay the water circuit from metal-plastic pipes according to a pre-designed pattern. You can also use cross-linked polyethylene pipes. Usually two installation methods are used: “snake” and “snail”. Laying “snail” is more profitable - the circuit contains fewer corners, while the colder pipes of the return circuit run next to the hot direct circuit, which avoids the so-called “zebra” - sections of warm and cold floors. Water circuit pipes are usually laid in 15 cm increments; for southern regions, 30 cm increments can be used. If it is necessary to make the floor in any area warmer, the laying increment on it can be increased. The diameter of the water circuit pipes is chosen smaller than the diameter of the main pipes, otherwise the pressure in them will be insufficient.

A warm floor in a room is an excellent basis for laying any finishing coating: tiles, linoleum, laminate. A heated floor with a water circuit has one drawback - it has a significant height, about 10 cm. If the height of the room does not allow you to create a heated floor from heating with a concrete screed, you can create heated water floors using or electric ones.

Use heated floors to create more comfortable conditions steel back in the days of Ancient Greece. IN modern world With the development of technology, everything is much simpler. Warm, customized flooring in an apartment can be used in any climatic conditions. Depending on the drop in temperature outside the window, this is a full or additional heating system.

The cheapest and most cost-effective option is considered to be a water-heated floor in the house. The coolant is water heated by a boiler, and when living in an apartment - by central heating.

Do-it-yourself water-heated floors have good and bad sides. Before installing a heated floor in a private home, you need to take them all into account.

What are the advantages of water heating:

• Such a system provides comfortable thermal conditions. Heat rises from bottom to top. This warms up the entire room. This is especially true in private houses with high ceilings.
• When the feet are warm, the decrease in ambient temperature is unnoticeable to people in the room.
• Since underfloor heating is a low-temperature heater, it does not dry out the air.
• Water at a temperature much lower than what the radiators need is used as a heater. The use of such a heating system in a private home is well combined with condensing boilers or heat pumps.
• It is possible to disconnect part of the circuits from the system.
• Heated concrete retains its temperature for a long time and a stable thermal regime is maintained in the room. This works well when using solid fuel boilers.
• The entire installation of a water-heated floor is hidden in the floor and does not disturb the overall picture of the room.

However, there are a number of disadvantages that you should pay attention to when installing water-heated floors in a private home:

• Required high-quality execution all stages of installation before pouring the heated floor. Correcting errors or malfunctions after the work is completed is financially expensive and sometimes impossible.
• A warm water floor in an apartment can only be installed with the permission of the relevant government authorities.
• Slow and slight adjustment of the warm water floor. Using a heating boiler, you can adjust the heated floor to a small range; in an apartment with central heating, you cannot adjust it at all.
• Not all coatings can be combined with warm floors. It is not recommended to install bulky furniture or lay carpets on them.
• The thickness of the heated floor is about 10 cm. This must be taken into account when designing the room as a whole.
• Insulation of interfloor ceilings increases the load on the beams.
• Installation of circulation pumps and thermostats is required.
• The installation of such floors is quite expensive.

Weighing all the pros and cons, it cannot be said that installing heated floors means increasing comfort for a small surcharge. Although many craftsmen can make water heated floors in the house with their own hands. By following a number of important rules, you can achieve positive results.

Installation process

The entire installation of a water heated floor in a private house consists of several basic processes. By doing each one correctly, craftsmen are rewarded with warm water floors in a private home that work reliably for up to 50 years.

All work consists of:

• design;
• insulation;
• pipe laying;
• finished floor screeds.

Each part has its pitfalls. You need to get to know them better.

Creating a Project

When installing a water heated floor with your own hands, you should correctly calculate the boiler power. If there is a lack of power, the water will not warm up enough, which will affect the quality of heating. Power is usually taken 15-20% more of the total power consumption.

Each water pipe is made as a single pipe. To calculate the length, you must first draw all the contours on paper. Their laying diagram and the place of attachment of the collector are indicated.

The diameter of the pipe and the pitch of laying the water heated floor depend on the environmental conditions and are calculated during the design. It makes sense to order a project from specialized organizations. If the calculations are incorrect, warm water floors in a private house will not work well.

Insulation of water heating

In order for the heat to warm the house, and not the ground or ceilings in the neighboring apartment, they use various insulation for heated floors that are laid on prepared level base. Differences in height cannot be higher than 5 mm. The system will heat incorrectly and not for long.

A hydraulic barrier must be located between the base and the insulation. It protects the floor from moisture penetration from the ground. The covering is made of polyethylene film. If pieces are spread, then they are overlapped, and all seams are taped.

Insulation for water heated floors comes from various materials. Application must be justified by location, ambient temperature and type of substrate.

The most popular insulation materials are:

• Expanded polystyrene. It is used when insulating the first floors on the ground or in a cold basement. This insulation for underfloor heating has high density. Available in various thicknesses. The more thermal insulation is needed, the thicker the slabs are used.

If there are no slabs of the required thickness, you can lay thinner ones in two rows, gluing them together.

• Mineral wool. It is used to create water heating in wooden houses. It retains heat very well and fills the entire space. The disadvantage is that it is hygroscopic; it must be reliably protected from moisture.

• Profile thermal insulation is the most modern insulation for warm water floors. It has a laminated coating and grooves or bosses that help subsequent pipe laying. The only disadvantage of the heat insulator is its price.

Thermal insulation for water heated floors is available in the form of slabs. Their installation usually does not take much effort or time. All seams or joints must be taped with foil tape to prevent moisture from getting into them and reduce heat loss.

Along the perimeter of the walls, the entire heated floor pie is separated by a damper tape. It is laid along all the walls, the remains are cut off after the screed is completed. The tape serves as a temperature stress compensator.

A waterproofing layer is placed on top of the insulation to protect it from moisture or aggressive environments (concrete, cement). It is also recommended to cover the insulation with a foil layer for better reflection and distribution of heat. In practice, this only works for wooden floors. When pouring concrete, it's just a waste of money. When using profile plates, all these steps are omitted.

Pipe laying

For installation of water heating, copper, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 15-20 mm. The diameter of the pipe depends on the size of the room and the weather in the region.

Pipes with a diameter of more than 20 mm are not used. To adjust in them required pressure water is required very much powerful boilers and pumps. This is inappropriate from the point of view of energy consumption.

For installation, two schemes for laying water heating pipes are used:

• Snake diagram. This is when the pipe is laid out in a uniform snake over the entire surface of the room. With this layout, hot water is first obtained, then it gradually cools, and the cooled water is returned to the return line. Recommended for use in sanitary facilities(bath, toilet), corridors and small rooms where the length of the contour is small.
• Snail diagram. For large rooms, it is recommended to lay out the pipes in a spiral, starting from the middle. The result is an alternation of pipes different temperatures. Heat is distributed evenly. Most hot pipe placed along the outer wall to compensate for the external cold.

Each circuit is laid using a single pipe. All bends are made smooth. The distance between the underfloor heating pipes is 7-20 cm. The distance from the wall is 5-7 cm.

For better insulation water heated floor in a private house between the wall pipeline and the next turn, the pipe laying step should be 5-7 cm, then how to regulate the layout of the water heated floor pipes is calculated in the drawn up plan.

The pipes are secured using special guides. Reinforced mesh is also used. It is placed above the insulation, and pipes are attached to it using wire or plastic clamps.

When heated and filled with water, the pipe expands slightly. When attaching them, you need to take this into account, leaving a small gap.

When using profile slabs, pipes are simply laid in grooves or between bosses. The length of the pipe is not recommended to exceed more than 100 m. 60-80 m is considered optimal. If the room is large, you need to install many heating circuits.

Collector

One of the main elements is the collector. It connects the pipe circuit to the heating. All circuits must have the same resistance. The manifold consists of two pipes to which the heating circuits are connected, connecting to the return and supply of the boiler.

The temperature of the water heated floor is within 35°C. To adjust and smoothly change the temperature, a mixer and a thermostat are connected to the collector.

The collector must be installed above the heating level to allow air to exit the system through a special air bleed valve. It makes sense to equip it with two shut-off valves to allow repair or replacement of parts without draining the water.

The pipes are connected to the manifold by pressing. Before pouring a warm water floor, check the tightness. The system is filled with water or air, pressure 1.5 working, and left for two days.

The pressure may decrease slightly due to slight stretching of the pipes.

Performing a screed

After checking the tightness, they begin to pour the heated floor.

Screed for heated floors comes in different types:

Concreting (wet method)

When performing, use a solution of concrete or cement with the addition of granite screenings.

Sand is not used as part of a concrete screed over a water-heated floor due to its low thermal conductivity.

To increase the service life, the heated floor is reinforced. A metal or plastic reinforced mesh is suitable for this. There are many on the Internet step by step instructions How to properly fill a heated floor. A plasticizer and polypropylene fabric are added to the screed composition. This significantly increases service life.

When screeding under a warm water floor is performed, the pipes are under pressure.

The thickness of the screed for water heated floors depends on the subsequent coating and varies between 3 cm and 7 cm. If several circuits were performed, then the water heated floor around each part is poured separately. Between them there are expansion joints made of damper tape. The poured heated floor screed dries within a month. For uniform drying and high-quality setting, it must sometimes be watered with water.

Polystyrene system

This installation system produces a water-heated floor without screed. It is used to create heating in wooden modular houses and for insulation interfloor ceilings.

The pipeline is mounted on polystyrene or wood slabs with grooves without concrete screed.

When wood is used, insulation under a water-heated floor in the form of mineral wool laid between the joists is more often used.

Having placed the pipe in the groove, it is covered from above with aluminum plates, which are attached to the plates with special locks. When assembling a heated floor under the tiles, you need to supplement the pie chipboard board, moisture-resistant plywood or GVLP. When using laminate, it is placed on an aluminum profile.

Concreting screeds for heated floors are most often used. The poured solution retains heat better; with this installation, heated floors in the house will last more than 50 years. When, due to circumstances, this is impossible, then a dry screed is used, although the heat transfer will be worse.

For covering heated floors, stone or ceramic tile. It warms up easily and holds heat well. They also use laminate or linoleum for flooring. Such flooring material must have a mark indicating the possibility of their use with heated floors.

With some effort and some investment, you can insulate your home for a long time. There are many sources of information on how to properly make a heated floor. An optimistic attitude and skill are important. Warm floors will bring comfort to many generations of households living in the house.

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system, in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a floor structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The heated floor system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central system heating.

A water underfloor heating system can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and heating method, there are different types underfloor heating: water and (cable, rod,).

Water heated floor is a durable and economical system heating, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, installation of underfloor heating systems is entrusted to professionals. For those who have decided to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• effective heat redistribution, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;

• security natural circulation air;

• compatibility of heated floors with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);

• possibility to install autonomous system(individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;

• reduction in heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);

• independence from power supply (and power outages);

• the ability to regulate the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;

• minimal costs for self-installation;

• is improving appearance premises due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Minuses:

• inertia of the system. The heating time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);

• design complexity in the case of using underfloor heating as the only source of room heating;

• high price installation;

• difficult to regulate temperature regime in case of connection to the central heating main;

• reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;

• the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;

• the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors below, in a private house - basement);

• low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - DIY installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four sequential steps:

1. Develop it yourself, download a ready-made standard one or order an individual project for a warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist to eliminate errors.
2. Select equipment and building materials.
3. Install the underfloor heating system correctly.
4. Check and launch the water heated floor for the first time.
5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a heated floor

Before you begin drawing up a project, you need to make sure that there are no unavoidable obstacles to installing the system indoors. These may include:

• room height. The thickness of the water-heated floor (installed system) is 100-120 mm. This results in the floor being raised to the appropriate height;

• door installation location. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm ( standard door And mounting clearances) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a door to order;

• window orientation. Windows located to the north or northwest, or oriented to the windy side, or having big size, can lead to the fact that the system power will need to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and ensure the desired room temperature;

  Note. If the calculated heat losses are more than 100 W/sq.m. It is not practical to install a water heating system.

• load-bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Taking into account the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the water heated floor system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but it is a reason to look into a water-based floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house have become more widespread than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles to the device, you can begin designing.

Calculation of water heated floor

Calculation in progress required quantity material depending on the parameters of the heated room and technical characteristics components of equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made based on the following data:

• floor area and room height;
• material of walls and ceilings;
• degree and type of thermal insulation;
• type of flooring;
• pipe material and diameter;
• power of the heating element (boiler or central);
• desired temperature regime (see table).

Limit (maximum) temperature of the surface of a heated floor for premises for various purposes

After this, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of pipe placement.

How to make a water heated floor correctly

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

• install in furniture locations heating elements gender is not allowed, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;

• It is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the cross-section of the pipe);

Maximum length of a water-heated floor circuit (loop) depending on the pipe diameter used

The deviation is explained by the fact that hydraulic resistance (slowing down the movement of the coolant) and thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Craftsmen consider the optimal length of the circuit to be 50-60 m (with a pipe cross-section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that during movement through the pipes hottest of the year releases part of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

• The pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) heating source, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the pitch is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, a “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

• installing thermostats will avoid overheating and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing a heated floor system in an apartment is associated with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Typically, installation is permitted only in new houses where there is a separate riser for pumping out hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).

Installation of heated floors in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. For heating small area no permission required.

In addition to the installation diagram of the components, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected at the design stage.

1. Concrete system. Involves filling pipes with concrete (arrangement of screed);
2. Laying system. Involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no “wet” processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - components for heated floors

A water-heated floor is a complex system of pipes containing a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed to install a heated floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is to connect to gas boiler. If the apartment does not individual heating, you can connect to the central heating main, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage lies in the possibility of installation in apartment buildings(since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the mounting unit). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for heated floors

Necessary to ensure the movement of coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​the house exceeds 100 square meters.

Pipes for warm water floors

• copper pipes according to experts are considered ideal option- durable, different high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;

• metal-plastic pipes leading in terms of price/quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the occurrence of corrosion and accumulation, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow section unchanged. In addition, metal-plastic pipes are light in weight, bend easily and have a high temperature limit.

• polypropylene pipes They are attracted by the low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.

• PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, because when heated, they straighten. Users recommend reducing the mounting step of the holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal cross-section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users advise using only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floors

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of the heated floor);

• expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made thermal insulation mats having projections for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;

• mineral wool. Users speak poorly of wool when installing a concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. Thermal insulation layer (thickness of insulation for a heated floor) above the basement, in ground floor, on the ground floor in a private house, should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected coolant temperature, the thicker the thermal insulation layer needs to be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

Manifold cabinet

Installed for installation of adjusting elements and joining of circuit pipes with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for heated floors

Users have different opinions regarding the installation of reinforced stacks. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen the concrete screed after laying the pipe system.

Components for the screed device

• concrete (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
• fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - installation of a warm water floor with your own hands

1. Installation of the manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, mandatory elements which are (manifold unit): manifold, pump, air vent valve and drain outlet. The dimensions of the collector depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the collector at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to follow this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, it is provided free space for bending pipes. In this case, it is not allowed to install pipes from above, only from below. This will ensure normal coolant movement. Installation shut-off valve between the pipeline system and the collector will simplify the maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, drainage, repair).

2. Preparing the base for heated floors

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the prepared surface, reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying a damper tape eliminates the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under water-heated floors must be leveled to ensure that the screed is of equal thickness (the key to uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for heated floors

Installation of water heated floor pipes can be performed using several methods (layout diagrams):

Snail

The pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is necessary to lay pipes through a row to ensure the possibility of reverse flow of the coolant and more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​more than 40 square meters.

Snake (loop)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along the outer wall, then returns back in a wave-like manner. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined pattern)

The loops of the snake are arranged in parallel and allow you to organize the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Advice. Craftsmen advise starting installation from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended that a beginner first apply markings to the floor surface. At the time of installation of heated floors in subsequent rooms, installation will be done “by eye”. For installation, only solid pipes or reliable connections are used.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end to the supply manifold.

You can organize insulation near external walls by changing the order of the pipes, as shown in the diagram.

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire or lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor and tie the pipe to it, allowing for thermal expansion of the materials.

The work is simplified by a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a heated water floor, the use of which simultaneously allows for thermal insulation and laying pipes in even rows.

4. Connecting the underfloor heating manifold

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Pressure testing of water heated floors

Pipe crimping ( hydraulic test), this is the name given to the procedure for checking the quality of installation, because at this stage it is possible to make adjustments to the water heated floor heating system.

Pressure testing involves introducing water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated operating pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressure testing, it is permissible to reduce the pressure by no more than 10%, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. The verification time is a day or more. If no violations are detected and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue work.

6. Screed for heated water floors

For screed can be used:

• any ready mix, a mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;

• classic concrete (with cement grade of at least M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is poured when the system is full (filled with coolant) with the pressure specified during pressure testing. Full time concrete hardening - 28 days. For the mixture, the hardening time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. On the surface of a large area (more than 40 square meters), expansion joints are provided.

Stage 4 - first launch of water-heated floor

After the floor screed has completely hardened (dried), the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Stage 5 - finishing of the heated floor

The fully finished heated floor is covered with finishing material. Today, the most popular flooring remains tile and laminate.

Water-based heated flooring under laminate has become widespread. However, the installation of laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

• The quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, harmful substances will be released into the room. Typically, laminate flooring is labeled “Warm wasser”;

• the heat insulator does not fit under the laminate;

• Ventilation of the laminate floor is required. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then covered with a plinth;

• Before laying, the laminate is placed in the room to set the floor temperature. In this case, packages with lamellas should be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high stack.

As we see, additional complications using laminate as a floor covering does not create any problems, however, craftsmen advise using water-heated flooring under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate has low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors whose evaporation does not in the best possible way may affect the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last for a long time if you follow the recommendations for their use, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

• a gradual increase in temperature is necessary. You cannot run the system at “maximum” after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 °C per day;

• the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;

• It is not recommended to turn the system on/off frequently. This will not result in additional savings;

• need to be provided optimal humidity in room. A balanced microclimate will have a beneficial effect on human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, you can carry out installation work outside, for example, to install a snow melting and anti-icing system (for heating pedestrian path, entrance area, porch, stairs, car parking, etc.).