The right cesspool. Do-it-yourself cesspool without a bottom. Underground drainage pits

Common mistakes

Practice shows that when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are often made such as:

• incorrect preliminary calculations of volume and location;
• insufficient pit depth;
• weak strengthening of the pit walls resulting in collapse
  walls;
• outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not under small angle;
• neglect of the rules for installing concrete rings.

Owners of private houses often face the question:

Do you want to apply modern methods for cleaning the toilet in the country? In you will learn how to choose bacteria for the toilet.

The choice of sewer pipes is very important question. Tips and recommendations can be found at the link.

For residents of city apartments, all communal amenities become familiar and natural for each apartment. A completely different case is country houses, in which all such amenities are constructed with your own hands.

Sewage, in the latter case, is a priority element. In some cases, such a system can be connected to a central network, but in others it is necessary to use similar offline ways, such as a cesspool, storage tanks or. Each of these methods has its own individual characteristics.

Features of a cesspool in a private house

Selecting a location

A cesspool is a container into which waste water is drained and accumulated. To determine the optimal location for its location, you will need to analyze land plot and find the most suitable site.

A schematic plan of a private plot can help in this matter, in which the locations of the following important elements are necessarily indicated:

• Residential building
• Household The buildings
• Water wells
• Gas pipeline
• Water supply pipes

Also, this diagram should indicate the landscape elements present on the site. To make it easier to locate the cesspool, you need to put on the plan neighboring buildings and other structures located on neighboring areas, including wells and all communications.

When planning the location of the pit, you need to take into account the direction of movement of groundwater. This information can be obtained from the relevant services.

On this moment Some sanitary standards are stipulated for the distance of this building from other structures:

1. The neighboring building and adjacent buildings are 10-12 m.
2. From the boundaries of your site - 1.5 meters
3. Your own house – 8-10 m.
4. Wells for water intake - at least 20 m.
5. Water supply networks – at 25 m.
6. Groundwater – at least 25 m.
7. Gas pipes – about 5 meters

When arranging a cesspool, it will be necessary to take into account the condition of the soil in which it will be placed. this design. For clay soil, water intake wells should be located at least 20 meters from the pit. For loamy soil, given distance increases by 10 m and will be 30 meters from the cesspool. For sandy or super-sandy soil - at least 50 meters.

Also, it is necessary to take into account another extremely important point. It is strictly forbidden to build cesspools along the groundwater flow, as in this case they may become contaminated.

The first value that needs to be calculated before building a cesspool is its volume, since the efficiency of the entire sewer system and the frequency with which the drain will need to be cleaned. This value can be calculated based on the number of people living on the site. For example, only 4 people live in a private house, 3 of whom are adults, and the last one is a child.

As a rule, one adult produces at least 0.5 cubic meters of waste, and for a child this value is reduced by exactly half - 0.25. If water consuming devices are connected to the cesspool drain, they are also taken into account. They are not used in this example.

As a result, we get 1.75 m 3 of waste going to the cesspool (0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.25). The resulting number should always be rounded to the nearest big side, which will help avoid overflowing of wastewater tanks. In this example, the number will be 2 cubic meters.

The total volume of the cesspool tank should exceed 3 times the volume of waste waste. That is, 3*2=6 m3. This is the optimal volume of a cesspool tank for a family of 3 adults and 1 child.

To erect a similar structure for summer cottage, it is necessary to use a different construction scheme. For such a case, you can take for optimal value for 1-2 cubic meters, since people come to such areas not so often and not in very large groups of people. But, if other circumstances are present, it is possible to increase the volume of the reservoir for the summer cottage.

Having the required volume of the tank, you will need to determine its structural dimensions. The depth of the structure is determined by determining the level of groundwater and the features of further maintenance of the cesspool. To periodically clean the tank from accumulated liquid and solid growths on the walls and bottom, you will need to use the services of vacuum cleaners.

The hose of a sewage disposal machine rarely exceeds a length of 3 meters, so you should not make the depth of the tank exceed this value. Otherwise, this may affect the quality of cleaning the cesspool. The most popular cesspool depths are 2.5 and 2.7 m. The maximum depth of 3 m is used extremely rarely, but this depth can be compensated for using a sand-crushed stone cushion. This is most relevant for leaking drains.

Also, it is worth remembering that if the underground groundwater level is higher than 2 meters, there is no point in constructing a cesspool, since this can lead to the filling of the reservoir with groundwater. This will mean a drop in the efficiency of the entire sewer system.

In this case, most suitable options There will be septic tanks or barrels of the required size, but they will need to be protected with a casing made of cement or metal mortar.

Construction of cesspools

Cesspool without bottom

At first glance, the construction similar design goes pretty easy:

1. Selected optimal location cesspool
2. Dig a hole of suitable size
3. Cover the walls with a layer of concrete, brick or concrete rings
4. Dig a trench for sewer pipes to pass through
5. Lay pipes from the building to the cesspool
6. Build the ceiling

If there is no centralized sewage system nearby, then a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem.

In any private house or country house where there is a toilet and a cold and hot water supply, the problem of collecting and discharging sewage arises.

Where should it be located in a private home?

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the cesspool will be installed.

When choosing a location, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of SNIP 30-27-90 and San PiN 42-128-4690-88:

• directly on the territory adjacent to a private house or cottage;
• installation is allowed at a distance of no closer than 10 meters from the foundation of a private house and other structures on personal plot and to structures located in neighboring areas;

Important! This requirement is explained by the fact that with a closer location of a leaky cesspool, destruction of the foundations of nearby structures and buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

• the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least 1 meter;
• the depth should not exceed three meters. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the depth of groundwater;
• it must be located at a certain distance (25 m) from drinking wells.

This distance depends on the type of soil on the plot:

1. When sandy and sandy loam soil– the cesspool must not be located closer than 50 m from the well;
2. For loamy soil - no closer than 30 m;
3. With predominance clay soil- no closer than 20m.

DIY construction of different types

There are two main options for constructing a cesspool:

• an ordinary cesspool without a bottom (drainage);
• sealed cesspool.

Option for installing a sewer system in a country house or in country house is largely determined by the location of the site, the daily volume of wastewater and the financial capabilities of the owner of the site:

• if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter, it is permissible to install a simple cesspool without a bottom. In a cesspool of this type The wastewater partially goes into the ground, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. An example of such a cesspool is an ordinary village toilet;
• with a large daily volume of wastewater (more than one cubic meter), it is necessary to construct a sealed pit, which must be periodically pumped out.

This requirement is due to the fact that if there is no bottom in the cesspool, wastewater goes into the ground and is purified by microorganisms living in the soil. But their processing capabilities are limited.

With large volumes of wastewater, microorganisms will not be able to cope with their purification. Then the wastewater will pollute the adjacent soil and possibly enter water-bearing soil layers with subsequent contamination of drinking water.

If it is necessary to dispose of a large volume of wastewater, you can also consider installing a septic tank with filtration fields.

Regular

The simplest cesspool is very simple:

• a hole is dug up to 2 m deep, 2 m wide and 2.3-3 m long;

• soil walls are strengthened or laid;

• a layer of crushed stone is laid on the bottom;

• A protective ceiling with a hatch is mounted on top.

Advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• quick and easy installation;
• low cost of construction and operation;
• ease of operation.

Flaws:

• environmentally hazardous;
• unsuitable for sewage of large volumes of wastewater;
• spreads an unpleasant odor;
• unscheduled overflow is possible as a result of the ingress of melt or rainwater;
• The groundwater level must be below the level of the cesspool.

Sealed

A sealed cesspool (sealed storage tank) is a sealed container into which wastewater is discharged through pipes. As the container fills, wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck.

Advantages of a sealed pit:

• environmentally friendly, waste water does not enter into environment;
• does not depend on groundwater level;
• the location does not depend on the type of soil on the site.

Flaws

• relatively high price structures;
• monthly operating costs(it is necessary to regularly call a sewer truck, from 2 to 4 times a month);
• There may be a smell if the storage tank is made in the form of a well.

Size calculation

The required working volume of the cesspool is calculated using the formula:

Vholes = Number of Days × Number of Persons × V Persons × 0.001,

Where
Vpits– the required volume of the cesspool, in cubic meters

Number of Days– planned frequency of calling a sewer truck to empty the pit storage tank

Number of persons– estimated number of people using sewerage

Vperson– water norm per person per day, liters. Accepted 100-200 liters per person.

Calculation example:

A family of five people lives in a residential building and they plan to order a sewer truck once every two weeks (14 days). We accept Vperson=150 liters per person per day.

Required volume of drainage pit:

Vpits=14×5×150×0.001=10.5 m3

Or 10500 liters.

What can you make yourself from?

Let's consider different kinds and design options for cesspools that you can build with your own hands. They can be divided into temporary and permanent.

From tires

If you need a cesspool for a toilet in your country house minimum costs, you can build it yourself using old tires.

It's cheap and quick option construction of a drainage pit. Its design is very simple. A pit is prepared into which tires are laid one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the pit; if desired, the tires are additionally sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

• low cost, simplicity and speed of construction;
• durability;
• easily restored if necessary.

Flaws:

• rapid siltation due to untimely cleansing, resulting in loss of useful volume;
• opportunity negative influence on the environment with a large load on the pit;
• Tires are susceptible to rotting over time.

Video report

Made from concrete rings

Let's consider the possibility of constructing a cesspool from concrete rings.

This is another option for quickly constructing a cesspool. In its structure it resembles a well. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other. If desired, the joints between the rings are sealed using a concrete screed.

According to the principle of operation, a drainage pit made of concrete rings is more likely to be a sealed cesspool. Therefore, it is necessary to empty it regularly. Although it is possible to build a septic tank from concrete rings.

The advantages include:

• durability;
• ease of construction of a protective cover with a hatch;
• relatively low cost;
• possibility of independent construction.

Disadvantages:

• high labor intensity of work;
• the need for regular bowel movements;
• the possibility of an unpleasant odor coming from the ventilation pipe.

Video: construction

Made of brick

A brick drainage pit is the optimal and good decision, if you need a pit for a toilet or a drain pit for a bathhouse in a private house.

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages.

Pros:

• environmental safety - the contents of the cesspool are regularly removed by a sewer truck or cleaned on site;
• ease of construction - with brickwork Almost any summer resident can handle it for a cesspool.

Flaws:

• An unpleasant odor may occasionally appear. To cope with this problem, using special drugs, accelerating the processes of decomposition of biological waste and regular cleaning of the storage tank;
• relatively short service life (10-15 years), due to brick degradation in unfavorable conditions cesspool;
• siltation. Siltation can be prevented by timely pumping out the liquid collected in the reservoir.

DIY construction

The first step is to decide on the location of the cesspool, taking into account ease of use and compliance with all requirements.

We decide on the design. Depending on its purpose, a brick cesspool can have round, square or rectangular masonry.

We calculate the required volume, determine the dimensions and prepare a pit for it.

At rectangular shape holes, we make a slope of the bottom towards the future location of the hatch. We lay a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick at the bottom of the pit and fill it concrete mortar. You can use ready-made concrete slab suitable sizes. A cement mortar screed is laid on top.

After the walls are ready, you need to cover them bitumen mastic or build a clay castle on the outside for reliable sealing.

If necessary inner surface We plaster the structures. For plastering we use a solution of a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 2 to 1.

Installation of ceiling and hatch

After the base of the cesspool is ready, we install its ceiling with a hatch. The ceiling must cover the pit on all sides by at least 0.5 meters.

We use it as a cover reinforced concrete slabs or stack the logs tightly. When installing a ceiling, it is necessary to immediately provide space for a hatch. The hatch should have a diameter of 0.7 m.

On top of the ceiling we lay waterproofing made of roofing felt or polyethylene film. We fill the waterproofing with a layer of soil or slag 40 cm thick.

Important! To protect against the spread of odor from the cesspool and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is made double. The top cover is placed at ground level, and the second at the ceiling level. Free space between the lids is filled heat-insulating materials(foam plastic, expanded clay, slag, etc.).

Drain pit from a barrel

A drainage pit made from a barrel is a good option for making your own sewer system with natural wastewater treatment for small volumes of wastewater (up to one cubic meter).

Preparing a barrel for a drain pit:

• We take a two-hundred-liter barrel, preferably from a non-corrosion material, and make drainage holes in its side wall in a checkerboard pattern using a grinder or drill. It is recommended to make holes in increments of 10-20 cm;

• We prepare and hermetically attach a pipe to the bottom of the barrel to connect the drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We cover the connection point of the pipe with bitumen mastic;

• We wrap the barrel on all sides with geotextile and securely fasten it with non-rotting twine. This is necessary to ensure reliable protection barrels from getting soil and other foreign particles into its container while maintaining drainage efficiency.

Preparing a pit and installing a sewerage system

• we dig a trench and lay sewer pipes, always with a slope;
• prepare a pit with a diameter and depth slightly greater than the depth of the barrel;

• pour a 30 cm layer of crushed stone or gravel onto the bottom of the pit;
• place a barrel on the resulting pillow and attach drain pipe;

• We fill the free space between the walls of the pit and the barrel with crushed stone or gravel;
• connect the sewer pipe to the inlet pipe of the barrel.

That's all, the drainage hole for your bathhouse or home is ready. Similarly, you can make your own cesspool from a toilet barrel.

Concrete

As one of the options for installing a home sewage system, you can consider constructing a cesspool made of concrete.

The procedure for constructing a concrete cesspool with natural filtration:

• determine the required volume of the cesspool and its dimensions;
• digging a pit required sizes;

• We install formwork around the perimeter of the pit and fill it with concrete mortar;
• Coat the outside of the resulting walls with bitumen for waterproofing;
• fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of crushed stone, gravel, broken brick;
• On the walls of the resulting box we lay waterproofing made of roofing felt or polyethylene, as well as a floor slab with a hatch for pumping out and a hole for entering a sewer pipe. We can also make the floor slab with our own hands from concrete;

• we lay and connect sewer pipes.

Using this technology, you can independently build a cesspool for a toilet.

There are many options for building a cesspool with your own hands. When choosing a specific solution, it is based on specific conditions and financial capabilities.

It is also worth considering the possibility of installing a septic tank or purchasing ready-made kit for the construction of a cesspool.

One of the main tasks that arises before starting country house construction, - pad engineering communications. Without them, you cannot achieve even the minimum level of comfort. How to make a drainage pit (septic tank) with your own hands? This is a question many homeowners ask. With absence central sewer it is necessary for the drain to work around the clock and uninterruptedly.

Choosing material for building a septic tank

From building materials, used for a septic tank, depends on the cost of the drainage pit itself, as well as your labor costs. The traditional and completely justified options are:

Septic tank from plastic tank and plastic components.

Prefabricated septic tank made of reinforced concrete designs.

Monolithic concrete drainage pit using metal inlets and outlets.

Drainage structure made of brick.

Choosing volume future drainage pit, focus on tank capacity of the sewer truck. You will have to call her periodically to pump out the wastewater. The volume of the septic tank must be equal to or a multiple of the volume of the “barrel”. Then you won’t have to order cleaning several times a year.

If in the house you are planning live seasonally, then wastewater disposal is a solvable problem. You need to make the most primitive cesspool from any sealed container. For a family from 3-4 person its volume should be no less 1,5-2 m³. If there is no such container, you can line the hole in the ground with red fire bricks. Simple circuits drainage structures shown in the picture above.

But when permanent residence such sewerage arrangement no good. Why - now you will understand. Family life requires the daily use of large volumes of water. These are baths, showers, washing dishes, wet cleaning, washing, natural needs.

Calculation of water consumption is always based on maximum consumption, and this 180-280 liters per day for one household. That is, a group of 4 -x a person spends per day 0,5-1 m³ of water or up to 30 m³ per month. Based on this, even a large drainage hole in 15-20 m³ must be cleaned 1-2 once a month.

Such a sewer will drain your family budget . In addition, the cleaning procedure itself is specific and rare owners have the desire to perform it too often. It's about O unpleasant odors, capable of spreading throughout the area.

Sometimes improvement A drainage pit is carried out by creating holes in the ground so that dirty water leaves through them, filtering naturally. But this method of disposal has many disadvantages, including prohibited sanitary standards . Therefore, it is necessary to equip a septic tank with natural purification of liquid.

Fundamental difference a septic tank from a cesspool consists of the fact that in the first there are leaks anaerobic processes of organic matter decomposition.

Particulate matter will linger at the bottom the first chamber, and the second is used for biological processing dirty water putrefactive bacteria. The number of cameras may be large, but the principle of operation itself will remain similar to that shown in the figure above.

First let's decide on water consumption in the house, based on data tables:

Minimum height there must be a septic tank not less than 1.2 meters, otherwise solid suspensions will not settle densely at the bottom of the drainage pit.

In the picture you see a diagram single-chamber septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings with a volume 2 m³. You can make such a cesspool for your home with your own hands.

Inlet pipe must be above the water level by 5-7 centimeters. This will prevent a hydraulic short-circuit between the inlet and outlet pipes. Both pipes must be immersed in liquid for 30-35 centimeters.

Bottom of pipes should be made open, and these ends should be brought above the wastewater level to 20 centimeters so that gas does not enter the pipes, which will be released during the fermentation of putrefactive bacteria.

Channels between both concrete rings The septic tank should be located within 30-60 centimeters relative to the water level. If the channel located between the chambers is lower, then large suspensions will begin to fall into the small chamber. If the channel is higher, then fractions that float on the surface may enter this chamber.

For a septic tank, even the simplest, it is necessary to provide exhaust gases to the outside(ventilation pipe in the diagram above), and also hatch for pumping out liquid(possibly wooden).

Configure cameras the drainage pit can be used in different ways, since their shape and location do not affect on the quality of cleaning sewer water. You just need to follow following proportions : a large chamber should occupy 2/3 from the entire volume of the pit.

Perfect form for a septic tank - round. Such a decision requires 10-15 % less building materials. In addition, the “cylindrical” pit is stronger because it copes better with the force of soil pressure. For cladding and strengthening walls better to use brick.

Water in the hole doesn't freeze, since fermentation processes raise the temperature. But cooling the liquid on the surface inhibits the activity of bacteria that clean sewage. Therefore, the upper part of the shallow septic tank is still it is recommended to insulate. At least half the depth of soil freezing in the region.

Insulation can act expanded clay, which is covered with a layer thickness of 25-40 centimeters, or foam boards PSB-25 thickness from 5 before 10 centimeters.