24.07.2017 48 228

Pruning hydrangea in the fall - how to ensure lush flowering next year?

Hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea) – flowering plants of the Hydrangeaceae family, of which in nature there are different information there are from 30 to 80 species. Among them there are shrubs and small trees, growing mostly in East and South Asia, China, Japan, Far East, as well as in the Americas. The plant was named after Princess Hydrangea, whom no one remembers for a long time; later, when botanists were engaged in systematizing plants, hydrangea received the Greek name Hydrangea, which translates as “vessel with water” - the shape of the plant’s seed pods resembles a jug, and the plant itself is very loves water.

The Japanese call hydrangea "ajisai", which means "purple sun flower". It was from Japan that hydrangea was brought to Europe in 1820, and was initially grown because of its low winter hardiness only as a indoor plant, but breeders were so keen on cultivating hydrangea that by the middle of the 20th century more than 100 garden varieties. In our latitudes, garden hydrangea is represented quite widely - twelve popular species.

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Hydrangea flower - description

Most of the hydrangea species are shrubs with a height of 1 m to 3 m; among hydrangeas there are both trees and vines that climb tree trunks to a height of up to 30 m. Among the representatives of the genus there are evergreen species, and there are deciduous ones, but in our latitudes they are grown namely the latter, blooming from spring to late autumn. Two types of flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences at the ends of the stems - sterile at the edges and fertile in the middle of the inflorescence. The flowers are most often white, but a species such as large-leaved hydrangea is represented by varieties with pink, blue, lilac and red flowers, and the acidity of the soil determines the color of the specimen. For example, in acidic soil hydrangeas grow with blue flowers, in alkaline - with lilac and pink, and in neutral - with soft beige. The fruit of hydrangea is a multipartite capsule with seeds.

In addition to large-leaved, tree hydrangea grows well in our climate, known for its winter hardiness and ability to recover well from severe frosts. Paniculata hydrangea also overwinters well, known for its longevity - it can grow in one place for up to 60 years.

In addition to these three most popular species, such species as serrate hydrangea, serrate hydrangea, climbing hydrangea, radiant hydrangea, Sargent hydrangea, petiolate hydrangea, oakleaf hydrangea and others are known in floriculture.

Pruning hydrangeas after flowering

Caring for hydrangea involves, among other things, pruning it. Some amateur flower growers claim that hydrangea is like lilac - the more you prune, the more luxuriantly it blooms the next year. This is not entirely true, since this statement is true for paniculate and tree hydrangeas, but colored (large-leaved) hydrangeas cannot be pruned. Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots, so young branches that grew this summer must overwinter, and only next year they can bloom.

As for the species with white flowers, namely paniculate and tree hydrangeas, they bloom on annual stems, so after pruning, as stated, they will have many young shoots that will produce more flowers. It is recommended to prune hydrangeas in the spring, but this must be done carefully, since sap ferments in the plants, and they “cry” when pruned. Many gardeners believe that it is better to prune hydrangeas in the fall.

Based on these differences between species, hydrangeas were divided into two groups based on pruning quality. The first group includes species that bloom on last year's shoots, such as the already mentioned large-leaved hydrangea, as well as serrated, prickly, Sargent, oak-leaved and petiolate liana-shaped hydrangeas. Pruning of these hydrangeas can only be cosmetic, removing last year's inflorescences down to the first pair of strong buds and weak, old shoots completely.

The second group includes species in which buds form on the shoots of the current year: paniculate hydrangea and tree hydrangea. The main pruning of these types of hydrangea is usually done in the spring, before the start of the growing season. Tree hydrangea is subjected to the procedure only if it is already four years old, otherwise it may die, bleeding juice. However, if you prune in the fall, this problem will not occur. An adult, and especially an old plant that needs to be rejuvenated, is cut “to the stump”, that is, only 10 cm are left from each shoot.

If the bush is too large and old, there is no need to prune it at once, otherwise the short shoots will not be able to feed the large root mass. Rejuvenate the bush in parts over three years.

Paniculate hydrangea is pruned sparingly, like a tree, without touching the skeletal branches: of the several shoots that grow from one point, only those that grow outward are left.

Pruning hydrangeas in the fall is absolutely safe and will ensure your plant blooms luxuriously next year. In hydrangea species of the second group, the inflorescences are cut off so that the fragile branches of the plants do not break under the weight of the snow that sticks to them in winter - this is the case if you do not intend to cover the hydrangea for the winter. In addition, old thick stems are removed from tree hydrangea, and weak thin shoots from paniculata hydrangea, and annual growth is shortened by 2-5 buds.

Preparing hydrangea for winter

Caring for paniculata hydrangea in the fall (and other species too), on the eve of the onset of cold weather, involves covering the hydrangea for the winter. Unfortunately, not a single type of hydrangea can winter in our area without insulation, so preparing garden hydrangeas for winter must be thorough. The tree hydrangea is the most winter-hardy, but it also needs shelter for the winter, otherwise the ends of its young shoots may freeze.

Start preparing in mid-September: remove all leaves except the top ones in order to speed up the process of lignification of the shoots, and feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (hydrangea is not fertilized with nitrogen in the fall). Now you can cover the hydrangea.

How to cover a hydrangea for the winter

There are several methods of shelter, but it all depends on what kind of winters are in your area. In the southern regions, it is often enough to simply hill up a bush of tree or paniculate hydrangea high. If your winters are unpredictable, then it is better to play it safe and still cover your hydrangeas. Small plants You can completely cover it with peat and cover it with a film on top - don’t be afraid that the plant may move, this probably won’t happen.

A well-proven method allows you to cover a small young plant without causing harm to it: tie a rope around the bush and pull it slowly, without jerking, to boards laid on the ground with nails driven in, to which you tie the plant. Then cover it with spruce branches or sawdust, and cover it with a sheet of old iron, lutrasil grade 30 or spunbond.

Pruning tree hydrangea (H.arborescens)

This type of hydrangea is characterized by large flat inflorescences, colored first in a greenish tint, then turning into white and then pink. Caring for tree hydrangea consists largely of autumn pruning. Next year's buds form on the current year's shoots. Shelter for wintering is necessary in the presence of young shoots and severe cold winter. The plant has the ability to quickly form shoots and also has a large number of zero shoots. Usually not formed by a certain form crowns, grows like a free-growing shrub. After planting, the branches are most often shortened a little to better formation and plant growth. There are usually many inflorescences on the shoots of the current year, and there is abundant flowering. These shoots of the current year appeared both on all shoots of the previous year (along their entire length), and on older shoots, on underground shoots. They are called zero. Some of the strongest zero shoots may bloom.

In autumn, only dry inflorescences are cut off.
In the spring, they do sanitary pruning, cutting off thin, weak, frozen, damaged and dried shoots. Shoots 1 year old are pruned, leaving 3 to 5 buds, from which new strong shoots with large inflorescences will later appear. The regrowth of shoots occurs quickly; already in the same year they will grow and bloom even more luxuriantly. In case of severe pruning from 2 to 3 buds, flowering becomes more sparse. And it starts later, at the end of July.

Tree hydrangea, pruning diagram. On the left is pruning in the fall, on the right in the spring.

Thinning pruning is also necessary. This is the removal of shoots that thicken the bush (small shoots growing in the center, weakened zero shoots that are not capable of flowering).

There is pruning of hydrangeas for flowering. This is pruning of the previous year's growth, leaving 2 to 4 pairs of well-formed buds. Strong flowering shoots will appear from them this season. Often, due to a harsh winter, it is necessary to prune a lot of frozen shoots, then the main and only pruning will be sanitary.

In the first four years of a young bush's life, pruning is not done. Shoots of the plant young plant serve in the formation of the root system and increase its mass. In the spring, hydrangea begins to have strong sap flow; when pruning a young bush, a fragile plant can lose a lot of sap and die. If you still need to trim some shoots, it is better to remove them when the leaves of the plant have already blossomed.

In the case of rejuvenating pruning of an old tree-like hydrangea bush (carried out once every 5-7 years), in the spring it is cut off completely, all shoots older than 5 years, leaving stumps 10 cm high. Large, very old plants are not recommended to be pruned in one pruning. Otherwise, there is a high probability of plant death due to lack of nutrition in its root system. It is better to do anti-aging pruning three times over three years.

If you need to get cuttings from a tree hydrangea, then they should be harvested when the plant’s sap flow begins. Otherwise, the cut cuttings will not take root well.

Ash hydrangeas, motley hydrangeas and a number of other hydrangeas similar in appearance are pruned in the same way.

The photo shows a tree hydrangea.

Pruning panicle hydrangea (H.paniculata)

Description and main types of pruning

Externally, the bush looks like a tree hydrangea. But the plant is more spreading and powerful. Flowering on the shoots of the current year, in the form of cone-shaped inflorescences. New shoots are formed from all buds on branches that are 2-3 years old. Tolerates cold and harsh winters well. The buds of the next year's paniculate hydrangea, like those of the tree hydrangea, are formed on the shoots of the current one. Usually paniculata hydrangea is not covered for wintering. The plant has a high ability to form shoots. The ability to form zero shoots is reduced. And the plant can be formed either in the form of a bush or in the form of a tree.

In autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut back to the first pair of buds. You cannot leave dry inflorescences for the winter, otherwise, under the weight of snow, they may break or deform (the wood of paniculate hydrangea is delicate and fragile), bend down, and in the future it will be necessary to tie up the plant so that it straightens vertically.

In the spring (March) they do the basic sanitary pruning, cutting off thin, weak, frozen, damaged and dried shoots. Annual shoots are trimmed, leaving 3 to 5 buds. Remove small shoots that thicken the bush, and leave a couple of strong shoots on large ones. The more massive the shoot, the more buds you need to leave on it in order to get strong and strong branches and abundant flowering in the future. Up to a pair of awakened buds, you can also refresh the cut left in the fall after removing the inflorescences. Paniculata hydrangea thickens quickly, and the number of branches and inflorescences increases every year. This can lead to weakening of branches and shrinking of inflorescences. Therefore, in the spring, shortening all last year’s shoots is encouraged; this has a beneficial effect on flowering. Necessary correct formation young plants, as well as systematic annual pruning of adult plants. When pruning, a beautiful, neat crown of the bush is formed. At correct execution all recommendations, every year the flowering will only become more abundant and luxuriant.

Paniculata hydrangea. On the left is pruning in the fall. On the right is pruning in the spring.

In the case of rejuvenating pruning, from shoots growing from one point, a couple of shoots growing outward are left, the rest are cut off.

In many ways, pruning paniculate hydrangea depends on the shape that needs to be given to the plant: standard with an erect or drooping crown, bush or bush with a raised crown.

Formation of the standard form of paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

Paniculata hydrangea is often confused with tree hydrangea, since paniculata has long-lasting, woody branches and skeletal shoots. Pruning tree hydrangea occurs like pruning a bush, and pruning paniculata occurs like pruning a tree, and its formation is possible both in the form of a bush and in the form of a standard tree. In plants aged 5-7 years, the buds on the lower branches practically do not awaken. This feature of paniculate hydrangea makes it possible to form it into a tree.

To form a tree, you need to select a seedling with a pronounced stem. In the spring, a young plant (2-3 years old) must select one upright shoot. This will serve as the trunk of the standard tree. It must be tied to the support without damaging or distorting it, strictly in a vertical position. IN summer period Side shoots form on the tree; they need to be pinched. They are not deleted, because they serve in the formation of the tree trunk as food. Thus, the trunk of the trunk thickens, strengthens, and next spring they are cut into a ring. As the tree reaches the desired height (from 0.5 to 1.5 meters), it is necessary to prune it, this is how the height of the beginning of its branching is formed. Next, a crown is formed from last year's shoots.

Exist various varieties With different characteristics, growth rate. By selecting a certain variety of paniculate hydrangea, you can form a standard tree with both a drooping and an upright crown. Forming a paniculate hydrangea with a drooping crown, the future trunk standard tree cut at 1.5 meters. When forming a plant with an upright crown, the future trunk of the tree is cut to 1 meter. For the formation of a “weeping”, descending crown of hydrangea, the most suitable varieties will be “Grandiflora”, “Limelight”, for the formation of an upright crown - the varieties “Kyushu” or “Tardiva” ( "Tardiva")

In the future, pruning the plant consists of shortening the skeletal branches by 2-3 buds every year, until the formation the desired shape crowns Root shoots are cut off as they appear. Also, faded, faded inflorescences and shoots up to the first pair of buds are cut off for abundant flowering next season. Damaged branches and zero shoots are systematically removed, lateral shoots on the trunk are pinched this year, and they are cut out next year. After a couple of decades, a standard tree with a trunk from 8 to 10 cm in diameter is obtained. If desired, you can form a tree with several main trunks. This type of trunk is very strong and stable. A standard panicle hydrangea tree, a “bouquet on a leg”, will serve as a decoration personal plot, a beautiful and unusual accent to garden decoration.

Formation of a bush form in paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

When planting, the seedling is buried 3-4 cm. This promotes the emergence of several shoots from the ground at once. Then the weak zero shoots are cut out, leaving the strong ones. The bush is formed by shortening the growth of the previous year, leaving from 1 to 3 pairs of buds. Excess, thickening branches are removed, and as the bush thickens, the inflorescences become smaller. To form and maintain paniculate hydrangea in the form of a bush, it is necessary mainly sanitary pruning. To achieve stronger shoots and larger inflorescences, you can cut weak, woody shoots into a ring. This will be to the detriment of flowering, but large individual branches and inflorescences will form.

By pruning paniculate hydrangea in the form of a bush, you can get a beautiful and useful decorative element - a living, free-growing hedge that will delight you not only with its lush flowering, but also with its density.

Formation of a bush form with a raised crown in paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

In the spring, weak, damaged, thickening branches are removed from a 2-3 year old plant. Leave from 3 to 5 strong shoots growing at an angle of 30 degrees from vertical position. Next, they are fixed to the supports, which should also be installed at an angle of 30 degrees. This promotes the development and formation of plant branches in the right direction. Every year it is necessary to remove new lower shoots from the ring, leaving only the apical and 2-3 pairs of upper buds. These buds will sprout next year. The central shoot will form new buds above the developed shoots, which will become the top shoots next year. With the onset of the new season, these upper buds are left, cutting off the side shoots formed in the previous year into a ring. Systematically, throughout the summer, all young shoots (without waiting for their lignification) that form on the central, below 2-3 pairs of upper buds are removed. Trimming and shaping must be done every year until the required height of the central conductors is reached. On average, the required plant height is formed within 2-3 years. When the shoots reach a length of one meter, they are cut off, forming a frame skeleton of the crown. Formative and sanitary pruning is done every year throughout the life of the plant.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangea (H. macrophylla)

Large-leaved hydrangea is a typical shrub. Zero shoots are formed throughout life. Shoots 4-6 years old become old. Flowering occurs on the inflorescences of current shoots formed on last year's shoots. Flower buds form on the upper third of the branch. Not so long ago, varieties were developed that form buds on the entire shoot. Therefore, pruning should be correct, minimal, careful and gentle. The less you prune large-leaved hydrangea, the more abundant its flowering. This heat-loving plant, and its flowering depends largely on wintering. The bush needs to be well covered for the winter with an air-dry shelter.

In autumn, it is better not to prune, just remove faded inflorescences.
In spring, sanitary pruning is carried out. You cannot prune last year's shoots, because... flower buds are located on them. Young one-year-old shoots are left. Remove dried, damaged branches from the ring. You need to cut carefully with pruning shears, at a right angle. To avoid deformation and damage to the kidneys. If you cut off more than 1-2 buds, the plant may not bloom. Systematically remove 1/4 of the old shoots that have many lateral shoots and branches to avoid thickening of the bush. Pruning such skeletal shoots encourages the growth of new branches from the base of the plant. This pruning is carried out immediately after flowering. Flower buds form on the newly formed shoots, which will bloom in the new season.

Anti-aging pruning is necessary every 4-5 years. The branches are cut at a height of 30-40 cm from ground level. This gives renewal to the plant, promotes the growth of new shoots and further flowering. Also completely cut off branches that have a curved shape, are inclined, or cross. This way a beautiful compact shape bush.

Large-leaved hydrangea. On the left is pruning in the fall. On the right is pruning in the spring.

The photo shows large-leaved hydrangea "Rotschwanz".

Among the large-leaved hydrangeas you can sometimes find varietal characteristics, varieties that tolerate heavy pruning, even to ground level. For example, the variety “Endless Summer”, with very strong pruning, blooms on new shoots, on the current growth. In this case, the flowering is single and occurs late, at the end of summer (August). If you prune hydrangeas of this variety moderately, flowering occurs more abundantly and occurs earlier (late July). Among large-leaved hydrangeas, there are varieties that can bloom on zero shoots - “Forever and ever”, “Hovaria Miral”.

Care after pruning

After pruning, the plant needs fertilizing with minerals and organic fertilizers. After pruning, the base of the bush is mulched with compost, peat, manure, humus (about 5 cm). Spring feeding hydrangea stimulates the growth and development of new shoots, promotes flowering. In summer, fertilizing is advisable chicken droppings, diluted with water in proportions of 1:10.

By following the rules for pruning and shaping hydrangeas, depending on the characteristics of the variety, you can bring to life any bold idea. design solution using this vibrant and lush plant. Hydrangea will delight everyone with its abundant flowering and dense foliage of the crown.

Hydrangea paniculata (hydrangea paniculata) is presented in the form of a shrub or low tree about 10 m tall. You can form this plant in the form of a trunk.

Hydrangea will not disappear without pruning, but will lose its decorative look, and flowering will be sparse.

In order for the plant to look aesthetically pleasing and healthy, you need to know the rules of pruning and why this procedure is needed.

Stages and pruning scheme

Hydrangea paniculata is pruned in early spring, this is needed for:

• better and more abundant flowering;
• giving shape to the crown;
• renewal of shoots and improvement of the plant.

Pruning is important stage in caring for hydrangea.

Its diagram is as follows:

1. Sanitation. At this stage, damaged, broken, dry and weak branches, last year's inflorescences, and non-flowering shoots are removed. In the first year after planting, sanitary pruning for the seedling is the only procedure, because the plant must adapt to the new location.



Note: You can trim the plant based on the growth buds. As soon as they appear and swell, it is time to carry out the procedure. This usually happens in early April.


2. Formative pruning. During the first three years after planting, skeletal shoots and a crown are formed. In the second year, after planting, last year’s shoots are radically shortened. This is necessary to create the base of the bush. Pruning of shoots and inflorescences is carried out using



3. Regulatory (stimulating) pruning. An annual procedure, the purpose of which is abundant flowering. In the third year after planting, they begin to regulate the density and shape of the crown. Shoots of Hydrangea paniculata are cut at the level of 1–3 pairs of swollen buds. It is imperative to remove shoots growing inside the crown.




4. Rejuvenation. Remove old shoots (3-4 years old) to the very base. They leave about 10 strong shoots. If the plant has been damaged, a radical method is used - cutting it to a height of 50 cm. The bush will not bloom next year. But during this time, restoration processes will take place, and it will be possible to begin the formation of a new crown.

After pruning, all that remains is to apply fertilizer to stimulate the growth of young shoots, and water the plant well.

Thus, pruning is a very important procedure in caring for paniculata hydrangea. Knowing all its varieties, you will be able to bush plant apply pruning to improve its flowering appearance.

From this video You will learn how to properly prune paniculate hydrangea: