Rules for constructing walls from cinder blocks. Standard sizes of cinder blocks: options for use in construction Nuances when constructing buildings from cinder blocks

Cinder block is one of the most affordable building materials. It is famous not only for its low cost, but also for the fact that this material can be made independently. In this case, you can save even more.

If you build from blocks with your own hands, the costs will be minimal. Moreover, this is not difficult to do. It doesn’t matter what type of building is planned - a house, an outbuilding, a bathhouse, a garage. If you find out how to correctly lay cinder blocks and approach this process responsibly, then the future building may stand for decades.

Types of masonry

There are several types of cinder block:

• hollow;
• full-bodied;
• half block;
• decorative.

Decorative cinder block is used to increase the moisture resistance of the outer side of the wall

Typically, a hollow block is used for walls. In this case, the load on the foundation will be less. The weight of one hollow block can reach 23 kg, and a solid one – 28 kg. Therefore, the latter is not used in the construction of walls. A solid block is used when constructing a foundation (but not in the case of constructing a building from cinder blocks), when constructing ground floors, load-bearing structures and columns.

There are also several types of masonry:

• in one stone;
• one and a half stones;
• into the floor of a stone (spoon method);
• two stones.

The method should be chosen based on the type of future construction. But we must remember that the thicker the wall, the warmer the building will be. If you plan to build a small outbuilding, for example, a barn, then in this case you can use the half-stone method. Half blocks are perfect for this.

Mortar for laying cinder blocks

The masonry mortar has different proportions. Usually, they proceed from what type of building is planned to be erected. You can buy a ready-made dry solution in the store, to which you just need to add water and stir. But in this case, the price of masonry increases.

Therefore, more often the solution is prepared independently. The simplest and most standard The solution for laying cinder blocks is prepared in the following proportions:

• 3 parts sand;
• 1 part dry cement;
• water.

It should be noted that water must be added so that the solution becomes viscous and does not spread much when laying the cinder block. Also You can add a plasticizer to the solution. It increases frost resistance, reduces porosity and increases the density of the solution.

After adding the plasticizer, the solution will have the following properties:

• stickiness;
• plastic;
• uniformity;
• frost resistance;
• self-sealing;
• strength;
• moisture resistance.

Home craftsmen use, for example, cheap shampoo instead of purchased plasticizer. But such experiments are a personal risk for the developer

When preparing the solution, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the future structure. The solution must withstand all loads. The mixture must be mixed in a concrete mixer, which will ensure greater homogeneity and quality of the solution.

Foundation for laying cinder blocks

You need to know how to place a block on a foundation. After all, this is the most First stage works

Usually the foundation for a cinder block building is made monolithic. In the end it should look like this: so that the foundation rises above ground level by about 0.7 meters.

The thickness of the foundation should be equal to the thickness of one cinder block or slightly more. Before laying cinder block the foundation must be waterproofed from the wall, after which you can proceed to the masonry process. But you need to understand that the base must be level for the successful laying of the first row of blocks, otherwise the entire construction process will be in vain.

Required Tools

For proper laying you need to acquire the following tools:

• construction trowel;
• building level;
• cord for aligning rows. You can use a regular clothesline or fishing line;
• hammer;
• plumb line;
• order;
• masonry template;
• circular saw or hacksaw.

Laying cinder blocks with your own hands, step-by-step instructions

In principle, the process of laying blocks is similar to brickwork, with the exception that the block is larger than the brick, so the laying is carried out several times faster.

Laying the first row of cinder blocks must be taken especially seriously, since it determines the evenness of the entire wall

How to lay blocksyourself, step-by-step instructions:

• the mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer;
• the mortar is placed on the foundation, and the thickness of the mortar should not exceed 1.5 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation of the masonry will be damaged;
• the mixture is leveled and a cinder block is laid along a pre-tensioned cord;
• level the cinder block by tapping reverse side trowels in required space cinder block;
• immediately remove excess mortar from the cracks, which was squeezed out under the weight of the cinder block;
• When laying the next row, a floor block is placed in the corners. To get it, you can saw a whole cinder block in half using a grinder or a hacksaw.

After the row is laid, it must be carefully leveled again using a string and a building level. Subsequent rows are laid in exactly the same way as the first.

It can be noticed that the process of laying blocks is practically no different from laying foam blocks, which can also be done with your own hands. The masonry is the same due to the fact that both materials have almost the same dimensions.

Wall reinforcement

In order to increase the strength of walls, distribute the load and reduce the risk of cracks, reinforcement is used.

The following materials can be used for reinforcement:

• reinforcing mesh (reinforced mesh) for masonry. Usually this is a mesh with a cell of 50x50 mm. It is placed between the rows;
• reinforcement or reinforcement cage.

The first row of masonry must be reinforced. Every fourth row of the wall is also reinforced. In addition, door and window openings must be reinforced.

Template for laying cinder blocks

Professionals usually lay cinder block without any tools. But if the laying is done by a beginner, you need to have a template on hand for laying cinder blocks, which you can do yourself. Such a template can be made from available materials, for example, from wooden boards.

The size of the template is calculated based on the size of the cinder block. After all, the dimensions of one cinder block can vary, especially if the material was made at home. The height of the template should be 1-1.5 cm, based on the thickness of the seam.

Price category

Construction site- this place increased danger. Therefore, it is necessary to observe safety precautions and work with gloves and a helmet.

Before laying cinder block walls, you need to find out the price for the work. Builders usually charge 20 rubles for laying one cinder block. Based on this, you can find out how much it will cost to build the required building, knowing its dimensions. Of course, it is better to lay cinder blocks yourself, and you can save a lot. In this case, the costs will only be for the material itself.

Price for 1 piece of cinder block:

To determine how much material will be used for construction, you need to know the dimensions of the future building, as well as the dimensions of the cinder block itself, which are 390x190x188 mm. It can be seen that the dimensions are quite large, so the construction speed increases significantly compared to ordinary brick.

The evenness of the masonry along the cord and the building level should be checked as often as possible to avoid curvature of the walls and rows in the future.

If the walls are not planned to be finished with anything in the future, then the seams between the rows should have attractive appearance. To do this, you can use a small rounded stick, which you need press the seams a little after each laid row, while the solution has not yet hardened.

When marking blocks it is necessary use colored crayons. They are best seen on cinder blocks, compared to, for example, a regular pencil.

To increase ductility You can add a little detergent to the solution.

It is necessary to mix exactly as much solution as will be used at one time. Otherwise, unused mortar may harden and will not be suitable for construction.

It is advisable to plaster the external walls, because cinder block is afraid of moisture. In this case, the plaster will protect the material. But since the plaster is poorly applied to the cinder block and can fall off over time, it is necessary to use a reinforced mesh. Internal walls can be covered with plasterboard.

Conclusion

If you know how to correctly lay cinder blocks with your own hands, you can save a lot during the construction process. After all, services professional builders They are not cheap, and it is not difficult to do the masonry with your own hands.

If you approach the masonry process responsibly, you can avoid many problems in the future. And a building can last up to a hundred years if it is followed the right technology construction.

You can see how to earn time by laying cinder block walls with your own hands in the video:

Reliable and beautiful cinder block laying consists of approximately 10% theory and 90% practice, but despite this ratio, without 10% theory it is difficult to master practical skills and begin to apply them on a construction site.

In the image: illustration of the three basic rules for laying blocks (bricks), 1 - the direction of the load force on the wall, 2 - the direction of the destructive forces when laying wedge-shaped stones, 3 - the distribution of the load over the surface of the wall.

1. Cinder block and any other stone, both natural and artificial, tolerate compression well and do not easily break or bend. This is where the first rule of reliable masonry arises - the overlying stone must rest with its entire surface on the underlying masonry. To achieve this, when laying cinder blocks, apply the solution to the entire surface of the underlying block, and not just along the edges.

2. The side edges of the stones should be located only at right angles to the horizon. If this rule is not followed, the stones begin to act as wedges, which, under load, push the masonry apart, destroying it.

3. Each next row of blocks should be shifted relative to the bottom one by a quarter or half of the block, that is, the vertical seams of adjacent rows should not be allowed to coincide. If the seams do not match ( correct masonry), then the vertical load spreads across the entire wall, and if the seams coincide (wrong masonry), then the load spreads along the column, sharply increasing the likelihood of destruction of part of the wall.

And a few tips: when working in hot or windy weather, it is advisable to moisten the blocks, this increases the adhesion between the solution and the cinder block; if a break is expected during the laying process, then the mortar should not be spread on the top row; Every 3 - 4 rows it is necessary to check the horizontality and verticality of the rows.

In the image: cinder block elements: 1 - upper bed, 2 - large side edge - spoon, 3 - small side edge - poke.

To make it easier to understand what kind of cinder block masonry can be used when building a wall, you need to remember that the block has 6 faces: 2 opposite ones on which the block is laid - the upper and lower beds; large side faces - spoons; small side edges are pokes. The masonry is carried out in horizontal rows and cinder blocks are laid on beds.

The height of each horizontal row is formed from the height of the stone and the thickness of the horizontal mortar joint, which is usually 10 - 12 mm.

In the image: 1 - masonry in half a cinder block, 2 - masonry in a cinder block, 3 - one and a half cinder blocks.

The width of the masonry, which ultimately is the thickness of the wall, should be a multiple of 1/2 of the cinder block.

Factors affecting the reliability of a wall made of cinder block or any other stone

The strength of the masonry is determined by the quality of the cinder block and the properties of the solution. The maximum strength of masonry made from blocks is equal to 40 - 50% of the tensile strength of the blocks themselves. This situation is explained as follows: during laying, the mortar is laid on the blocks in an uneven layer, microscopic kinks and voids appear, this leads to the formation different pressure on cinder block on different areas walls, bending stress arises in the block, and the cinder block does not withstand just such a load.

In the image: stages of destruction of masonry, 1 - appearance of cracks, 2 - formation of individual columns, 3 - complete destruction of the wall.

If a wall experiences excessive load, it first becomes covered with vertical cracks, which are most often located along the vertical seams. Over time, the cracks expand and monolithic wall turns into a set of columns that can move out of the plane of the wall and eventually the masonry collapses.

The reliability of the masonry largely depends on the quality of the mortar; the plasticity of the mortar is especially important. The plastic solution lies evenly on the stone, as a result, the bending stress decreases and the reliability of the wall increases.

When mixing the solution, strictly observe the proportions, taking into account the quality of sand and cement, do not prepare for future use.

The strength of the masonry also depends on the thickness of the seam; the thicker the layer of mortar, the harder it is to evenly place it on the cinder block and the likelihood of fracture stress increases. For this reason, each type of masonry is made with a certain thickness of the seam (for a cinder block this is approximately 1 cm), and it is not possible to increase this thickness without the risk of reducing the strength of the structure.

Cinder Block Laying Tools

In the image: tools needed for masonry stone wall, 1 - trowel (trowel), 2 - mortar shovel, 3 - jointing for convex and concave seams, 4 - hammer-pick, 5 - plumb line, 6 - square, 7 - construction level, 8 - tape measure, 9 - level, 10 - folding meter, 11 - duralumin rule, 12 - order.

1. A trowel is a steel shovel with wooden handle, with the help of which the mortar is leveled, the seams are filled, and excess mortar is trimmed.

2. The mortar shovel is designed to mix the mortar without allowing it to separate, apply it to the wall and spread it.

3. Joints with which the seams can be given a convex, concave, triangular, rectangular recessed shape.

4. A pick hammer is used when chopping and hewing bricks or blocks.

5. A plumb line, with its help the mason controls the verticality of the wall, piers, corners, and so on. This tool, depending on whether the verticality of the masonry is checked within one or several floors, has a different weight. For the first case it is 200 - 400 g, for the second 600 - 1000 g.

6. The square is used to check angles.

7. Building level, which is designed to control horizontal and vertical plane. Available in lengths of 300, 500 and 700 mm. Structurally, it consists of an aluminum case with two glass ampoules filled with non-freezing liquid, in which an air bubble remains. The principle of operation of the device is simple: place it on the wall surface and look at the position of the bubble. If it measures in the middle between the divisions of the ampoule, then the surface is horizontal; if it is shifted in any direction, then there is a deviation.

8. Tape measures and folding meter are designed for measuring short distances.

9. Rules-level - this tool is made from trimmed wooden (section 30 × 80 mm, length 1.5 - 2 meters) or duralumin slats with a special profile. With its help it is controlled front surface lined wall.

10. Order - represents wooden slats(section 50 × 50 or 70 × 50, length 1.8 - 2 meters) with divisions every 77 mm, which is equal to the thickness of one row with mortar (65 mm + 12 mm). The order can also be made from a metal corner, on the edges of which divisions with a depth of 3 mm and a pitch of 77 mm are cut.

Sequence of work when constructing cinder block walls

In the image: 1 - laying the outer spoon verst, 2 - internal spoon verst, 3 - butting row.

One of the first questions that arises before starting to build walls is how thick should they be? The best answer to this question is to get it from project documentation, but many people build houses without plans, in this case you can rely on these numbers. During construction 1 storey building and at an air temperature in winter - 20 C, the wall thickness is 350 - 400 mm; temperature - 30 C thickness 450 - 500 mm; temperature - 40 C thickness 550 - 650 mm.

The cinder block laying is carried out by a master and an assistant. The latter stands in front and, moving along the course of the masonry, feeds the blocks onto the wall, laying them out in increments equal to length stacked block and at a distance from the wall equal to two lengths of stone. With this arrangement, it will be convenient for the master to spread the mortar and lay the blocks on the wall. The assistant's responsibilities also include supplying the solution.

Cinder block is a “fast” building material that speeds up the work of a mason.

The master lays the mortar with a shovel on the upper surface of the wall, the width of the strip is several centimeters narrower than the width of the block. The cinder block is laid on fresh mortar and pressed close to the laid block, after which it is pushed down with both hands and, if necessary, with a hammer. The protruding mortar is cut off with a trowel and the vertical seams are filled. If the cinder block does not have a recess on the bonded surface, then a solution must be applied to this face before laying the block on the wall.

Additional articles with useful information

Whether or not to use cinder block as the main building material when building a house can be decided only after taking into account the positive and negative aspects this artificial stone.

Many developers can be helped out frame walls, especially if you take into account their features during construction and operation, since they can be built without special equipment and they are much cheaper.

From strength building material The reliability of any structure depends. When choosing cinder blocks for building a house, garage, bathhouse or any other building, you need to choose the right cinder block the right brand strength - the durability of the structure will depend on this.

The advantage of cinder blocks is that they can be made from different types materials. This can be slag or screenings of gravel and crushed stone, ash, expanded clay, sawdust, shell rock, brick waste, sawdust, perlite, etc. are used. Since all these materials have different properties, then from the composition ready mixture will change and specifications finished cinder blocks, their strength, thermal conductivity, frost resistance, resistance to atmospheric phenomena and etc.

Like any building material, it is designated by the letter M (grade strength). Brand strength cinder blocks can be different: M35, M50, M75, M100, M125, M15, M200. The higher the indicator, the higher the strength of the blocks. These numbers show what load (35,50,75,100.25 kg/cm2) the block can withstand on 1cm2 of surface.

For the construction of walls and partitions, lighter and warmer cinder blocks of grades from M35 to M75 are suitable, and for the construction of a plinth and foundation, cinder blocks of higher strength from heavy concrete grades M125 to M200.

In terms of strength and durability, cinder blocks are not inferior to bricks, and in terms of cost and ease of laying, cinder blocks compare favorably with other building materials.

This is where the popular name came from - cinder block, although time changes everything, it also changed physical composition of this material:

• popular fillers have become: granite screening; broken brick, cement, concrete; expanded clay; crushed stone, perlite, ash, etc.;
• The binding material was still cement (M-500) with the addition of clay, lime, gypsum or plasticizing additives.

Buy or make it yourself?

You can make cinder blocks either independently or in an industrial environment. For the first case, you cannot do without a vibroforming machine or a vibrating table, since the technological condition for obtaining a cinder block is vibration pressing method. Such “home” production makes sense if you have the skills and a small amount of construction: a private house, garage, outbuildings.

Purchasing ready-made building material will not significantly increase the cost of construction, but will allow you to make a choice in accordance with the purpose set by the project, climatic conditions, the authority of the manufacturer, the environmental friendliness of the composition, the type and size of the block, color.

For large volumes of construction, this will avoid unprofitable costs of physical labor.

Characteristics of cinder block

In addition to its composition, cinder block is characterized by standard dimensions - 200x400 mm and less than 200, the so-called semi-blocks (for partitions), as well as the presence of internal voids (to make the product lighter).

That's why distinguish between monolithic and hollow cinder blocks, which are characterized by the degree of cavity volume:

• two rectangular cavities;
• four rectangular cavities;
• two or three round cavities;
• three rows of free-form cavities.

The strength of a cinder block can be determined by the brand, the marking of which contains the amount of load that the material can withstand per 1 sq.cm.

So the M-35 product only comes in combination with another load-bearing material greater strength. M-50 and M-75 are used for partitions and interior walls. M-100 and M-136 - for laying load-bearing structures.

Low load bearing capacity limits the use of cinder blocks for multi-story buildings, and the high hygroscopicity of the blocks requires the mandatory fulfillment of the following conditions:

• construct a cinder block structure only in dry weather;
• do the masonry on high foundation(up to 70 cm);
• apply the outer coating with a layer of at least 2 cm immediately after erecting the wall;
• Do not leave the frame of the house without a roof for a long time.

A short video about cinder block houses.

What are the benefits of a cinder block house?

1. Its main advantage is fire safety, which in conditions suburban construction has priority.
2. A house made of cinder blocks is not afraid of not only a hurricane or an earthquake, but also the most destructive tornado, especially if the walls are reinforced with steel rods during laying.
3. The building can be repaired without any problems, retains heat and protects well from temperature changes outside.
4. The masonry process itself is easier than with brick. It is possible to vary the thickness of the walls using masonry of one block, half a block, one and a half or two stones.
5. The process of laying cinder blocks is accessible to a non-professional.
6. Currently, the services market has interesting offers free projects private houses made of cinder blocks.
7. Cinder block is an excellent sound insulator and a material inaccessible to biological destruction.
8. The service life is 100 years.
9. Prices for this type of building material are quite affordable.

Photos of cinder block houses.

What reduces the advantages of a cinder block house

1. It is gratifying that there is currently a sufficient selection of samples on the building materials market exterior finishing, because cinder block house There is no way to leave it without covering the walls - it looks so unpresentable.
2. True, cinder blocks are also produced with a decorative texture, but their hygroscopicity requires protection from precipitation and any type of moisture. And such protection creates difficulties in installing ventilated facades, drainage system, use of waterproof materials.
3. This building stone complicates the work of laying pipes and cables.
4. High heat conductivity requires insulation of walls.
5. The environmental friendliness of the blocks depends entirely on the integrity of the manufacturer, so you need to choose licensed brands that have proven themselves well.

What you need to pay attention to when starting construction with cinder blocks

1. When choosing a cinder block, take an interest in the environmental friendliness of the filler: the best are expanded clay, shell rock, sawdust, and crushed stone.
2. When choosing a material, pay attention to the integrity and identity of the geometry of several blocks from different pallets.
3. Before purchasing, find out from the seller the characteristics of the material that affect density, frost resistance, strength, and thermal conductivity.
4. The quality of the material can be checked with a 15mm nail by trying to manually stick it into the lower block. If it comes in, there is cause for concern.
5. A cinder block made without a vibrating machine is inferior in strength and reliability; Suitable only for non-residential premises.
6. When making blocks yourself, you can always add the missing ones, you just have to respect the setting time of the material.
7. The thickness of the masonry walls is determined based on the climate of the area.
8. Too much thick layer solution (over 1.5 cm) will reduce the heat resistance of the walls.
9. Without preparation ordinary plaster Doesn't stick to cinder blocks.
10. For high-quality masonry, even a low wall will need scaffolding.
11. Cinder blocks are not used as construction materials and foundations.
12. Calculation of blocks can be done without taking into account window and doorways, taking into account 10-15% percent of losses during the construction process.

What could it be more pleasant feeling that you are a “jack of all trades”! Build a garage or shed on personal plot Almost every man can do it on his own. The main thing is to choose a building material that is easy to work with, and the result will meet the requirements for durability and thermal conductivity.

First, let's look at what materials can be used to build an outbuilding:

1. tree
2. brick
3. foam concrete or aerated concrete
4. shell rock or cinder concrete

A wooden building (if it is not a temporary shed) is more suitable for residential buildings or a bathhouse, and not for a garage. A brick building will be more durable, but will require significantly more financial investments and construction experience. More affordable options will be for constructing outbuildings from foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks, sawn shell rock, but still the cheapest will be laying walls from cinder block, which is universal material, used for these purposes for many years.

Pros and cons of cinder concrete.

One of the main advantages of cinder blocks is their relative cheapness and the fact that masonry can be done with minimal construction skills. The thermal conductivity of the block can be increased if, during construction, all cavities are filled with expanded clay or other bulk insulation.

However, there are still several parameters in which cinder blocks lose. In particular, these are:

• environmental friendliness of the material (it is better to choose a manufacturer that indicates the composition of the filler),
• poor adhesion of blocks to masonry and plaster mortars,
• increased sensitivity to moisture.

Without exterior finishing, cinder block walls will not last long, so their advantage as a cheap building material can be offset by the costs of facade works. The same problems with finishing also have interior spaces. The plaster will fall off over time, and the wallpaper will not adhere well to the material due to the uneven surface.

Laying cinder block walls: material calculation.

Cinder blocks, unlike foam blocks, are produced in a standard size - 39x19x19 cm, which is equal to about four bricks, or half the size for partitions.

The strength of a cinder block directly depends on the composition and percentage of voids, so it is quite difficult to talk about a specific figure. To check the strength, you can try throwing a block from a height of one and a half meters and if it does not break, then the quality is good.

Price of one wall standard cinder block ranges from 20 to 40 rubles, depending on the composition of raw materials and production method.

Calculation required quantity blocks are produced quite simply. The area of ​​the walls and the volume of the masonry are calculated. There are 72 standard blocks in one cubic meter. If the walls are laid from cinder blocks in one block (wall thickness 38 cm), then 30 pieces will be needed per m2 of wall, and if in the floor of the block, then only 18.

High-quality masonry is ensured by properly mixed cement mortar with the addition of a plasticizer (ordinary detergent or clay). One cubic meter of solution is enough to lay 4.5 cubic meters of blocks.

Technology of laying cinder block walls.

In order for the block walls to be smooth, you must adhere to some mandatory rules.

Rule one. The foundation for block walls should have a maximum flat surface and be slightly larger than the width of the blocks.

There is a set of mandatory tools needed to work with blocks: a level, a plumb bob, a rubber hammer, a cord, a trowel, and a trowel.

Before laying on the foundation or plinth, cut-off waterproofing is made on a bitumen basis, in the form of waterproofing mastic or mortar (the choice in construction markets is huge). This layer will protect against moisture penetration into the wall from below. If roofing felt is used, the sheets are laid overlapping with a margin of 10-15 cm.

The blocks are laid so that the edge hangs slightly over the base. It is optimal if the blocks protrude about 5 cm beyond the base.

The masonry process begins with marking the location of the door and window openings and internal partitions.

Beacon blocks are placed first in the corners and, using a level and plumb line, the corners of the house are aligned at 90 degrees. This is very important stage, on which the evenness of the masonry depends.

After which the corner blocks can be laid on the mortar, the layer thickness of which is approximately 2 cm. Once again, make sure that the blocks are level.

For precise fitting of all other blocks, a mooring cord is used, which is secured with a nail and a weight on the corner blocks. It will be so convenient to knock rubber mallet each subsequent block so that it is clearly flush with the cord. The time for installing blocks on the applied solution should not exceed 10 -12 minutes. The solution is applied to the bottom row and side of the block being laid. The block is oriented with voids downwards (if the option of filling with expanded clay is not provided).

The solution that is squeezed out when adjusting the block is necessarily collected with a trowel and used further.

These are all the rules that will help make the walls of your “fortress” smooth and reliable.