Practical recommendations on how to grow apple seedlings. Practical recommendations on how to grow apple tree seedlings How to distinguish apple leaves from pear

Do not buy seedlings from random people, along roads or in other places not intended for the sale of planting material.

Cases are not uncommon when instead of a pear, scammers sell an aspen that looks like it. If it is without leaves, it is difficult to distinguish it from a pear, but it is possible. To do this, you need to bite a branch.

The bark of a pear is tasteless, while that of an aspen is bitter.

It happens that wildlings are given out for varietal seedlings. Therefore, in order not to get into a mess, know: the wild pear has thorns on the shoots, the branches are densely arranged and depart from the trunk at a right angle.

True, it happens when "craftsmen", trying to give the savages a cultural look, remove thorns and extra, small twigs. But after such "cultivation" traces always remain on the stem, they are easy to notice for an attentive buyer.

Unlike the wild game, the stem of a varietal seedling is clean, since in the nursery either the branches are not removed at all, or only the lower ones are cut out to form a bole.

Another landmark- on the bole of a grafted seedling there is always a scar remaining after the fusion of the stock with the scion. In addition, at the junction there is a slight curvature of the trunk, there is a difference in the color of the bark.

But here in front of you is undeniably varietal pear seedlings. It immediately arises Another issue is age..
Many people think: the older the seedling, the more viable it is and, moreover, it will bear fruit earlier.

The error is that in large-sized plants, when digging, peripheral roots with a lobe are inevitably destroyed. The larger the seedling the longer they are and the more difficult it is to keep them intact. As a result, there is a disproportion between the large crown and the stumps of the roots, which are not able to provide it with the necessary amount of water and nutrition. Such plants get sick or die for a long time. To bring the underground and above-ground parts into line, the crown must be severely cut.

Besides, in adult seedlings, the aerial part is often neglected and requires formation: removal of a competing shoot, pruning of a top that is too long.

As a result, little remains of a large seedling. Therefore, it is much better to plant strong healthy annuals of early-growing varieties. They will catch up and overtake such large-sized vehicles.

But 1-2-year-old seedlings should not be overbearing either. A well-developed one-year-old should have a height of 0.7-1 m, a trunk of at least 1 cm in diameter and a root system 20-30 cm long. Parameters of a biennial: a height of at least 1.5 m, several side branches, well-developed roots 30-40 cm long.

It happens that merchants are cunning and small weak seedlings (they are called "non-catch-up") are passed off as superdwarfs on special rootstocks. Do not believe: the pear does not have dwarf rootstocks. Sometimes seedlings grafted on irga, chokeberry and other non-traditional rootstocks are given out for them.

Keep in mind, what such plants are short-lived. They suffer from the physiological incompatibility of unrelated crops and die after 5-7 years (sometimes a little later). A pear on such rootstocks has to be grown only in places where it is not viable otherwise, for example, on limestone soil.

Which seedlings are better with an open root system (OKS) or closed (ZKS)

Another question that gardeners often ask is: which seedlings are better - with a closed root system (ZKS) or ordinary ones?

Plants with ZKS are initially grown in containers with soil. Planted together with an earthen clod, which is firmly entwined with the root system. Therefore, when transplanted into open ground, the roots are not damaged and the plant takes root well. This is theoretical, practically not everything is so simple.

In recent years, many imported pear seedlings with ZKS in plastic containers. They are of any age, but more often 3-5 years old. Not only are these seedlings expensive, the main thing is that imported varieties are not suitable for our climate.
And domestic pear seedlings with ZKS most often go on sale too small. These are semi-finished products. After winter vaccination, they are grown in greenhouses and in the summer, when growth processes are still ongoing, they begin to sell.

Such seedlings require special attention. When buying, find out if they have gone through an adaptation period after being dug out of the greenhouse. If not, then before planting they must be kept in the shade (harden) for a week, otherwise the leaves will burn in the sun.

When buying such semi-finished products, it is necessary to check the integrity of the earthen coma. Grab the plant by the bole and pull up slightly. If the earth crumbles, it means that the lump has not yet formed, and without it the integrity of the roots will not be preserved during transplantation. It makes no sense to buy such a seedling.

By purchasing a plant with ZKS, you are buying a pig in a poke., because you cannot see possible root defects hidden by the earth: tearing, decay, etc. For example, pear seedlings often have root cancer. Its growths at the ends of the roots can be cut out when they are visible, and save the plant or reject it, not allowing it to be sold.

This is usually done in nurseries. But root canker cannot be detected in seedlings with ZKS. As a result, after planting, gradually growing, the growths begin to decompose, causing rotting of the roots, root collar and death of the tree.

In some two-year-old pears, lateral shoots are clubfoot (curved in different directions).

Think of it not as a defect, but as a specific varietal feature.

In seedlings with a closed root system, the lower part of the stem is sometimes deepened with a winding at the grafting site. If it is not removed, the film will gradually cut into the thickening barrel and destroy it. Therefore, carefully inspect the place of vaccination.

Well, if the winding has already been removed, it means that the vaccine has taken root. But if the film remains, as the stem thickens, it must be loosened and removed only in the fall, otherwise the grafted part may break off.

Pear is a representative of the genus of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. Belongs to the class dicotyledonous, flowering department, rosaceous order, pink family, pear genus ( Pyrus).

In the old Russian annals of the 12th century, the pear is referred to as "khrusha", presumably because of the characteristic crunch when biting the fruit, and is consonant with some Slavic names: hruska (Czech), krusha (Bulgarian).

Pear wood is hard, dense, with a fine texture and barely visible growth rings. Due to the presence of special "stone cells", the dried raw materials are quite easy to process. Treated with a black stain, pear wood perfectly imitates expensive ebony, and turns red when exposed to hot air. With natural aging, pear wood acquires a distinctive amber color.

The average life expectancy of a pear is 150-200 years, although some types of pear trees live up to 300 years.

Where does pear grow?

In the wild, the pear is widespread in Europe and the countries of Central Asia, it occurs in the form of deciduous thickets, but such a wild pear produces small and completely tasteless fruits. As a result of successful breeding activities, the pear tree is also cultivated in private plots. Today, the distribution area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis tree is spread from the Urals and regions of Western Siberia to the Crimea, Belarus, Ukraine, the foothills of the Caucasus, Japan, China, and the southern and northern regions of the European continent.

Pear is a tree that grows on fertile, loose soils and produces abundant crops of fragrant fruits. Moreover, the optimal soil for planting pears should be neutral or with minimal acidity. On poor, acidic and excessively wet soils, the pear takes root very hard and often refuses to bear fruit.

Pear planting. How to plant a pear?

An important step is the correct choice of a place for planting a pear and the careful preparation of a landing pit. For planting, one- or two-year-old pear seedlings with a developed root system and no visible damage to the aerial part are used. Spring planting of a pear is acceptable, although experts recommend planting a pear in the fall - in the middle or end of September, when the foliage has fallen off the seedlings and sap flow has stopped.

The best soil for planting pears is clayey and loamy, with deep groundwater. Acidic soils are preliminarily limed. A place for planting a pear seedling is chosen sunny and protected from the winds.

A landing hole 1 m wide and 80 cm deep is dug in advance. At a distance of 30 cm from the center, a stake is driven in, which is necessary for the proper growth of the tree.

8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt are added to the pit and mixed with a small amount of earth.

A pear seedling is placed in a hole and they begin to add soil, periodically shaking the tree itself. When properly planted, the root neck will rise 6-8 cm above ground level. Then the soil is tightly trampled down and spilled with several buckets of water. The trunk of a pear seedling is tied to a peg and, at the end, the trunk circle is mulched with humus or manure so that the mulch does not touch the tree trunk.

Pear Care

Young pear trees need to be watered regularly at the rate of 1 bucket of water per week; watering is increased during drought.

• Pear dressing

In the first 4 years, the pear is fed with nitrogen fertilizers, several times a season, and 1 time per season with any potash fertilizer. During spring and autumn loosening of the near-stem circle, the same complex of fertilizers is applied that was used during planting. Starting from the 5th year, fertilizers are embedded in specially dug grooves along the periphery of the crown.

• Pruning and shaping the pear crown

The formation of the crown consists in spring and autumn pruning of branches. Close and parallel growing pear branches are removed, especially long ones are shortened, achieving the same length of the crown tier. The places of cuts are covered with crushed coal or garden pitch.

• Pear care in autumn

Autumn pear tree care includes a number of necessary activities:

1. 1. sanitary pruning of branches;
   2. preventive treatment for diseases and pests;
   3. top dressing of pears with phosphorus fertilizer;
   4. whitewashing the trunk of a pear with lime;
   5. digging and deep watering of tree trunks;
   6. shelter of the trunk circle with straw or sawdust with a layer of up to 25-30 cm.

• Pear care in spring

Spring pear care begins with the removal of shelters and repeats the autumn one, only phosphorus fertilizers are replaced by nitrogen fertilizers.

Depending on the variety, the pear begins to bear fruit for 4-7 years of the tree's life. Pear blossoming occurs in April - May, pear harvesting occurs, depending on the region, in August - September.

Pear propagation

Pear is propagated by seed method, cuttings, layering and grafting. Seed propagation is more used by breeders to develop new varieties. Among the people, reproduction by layering is considered the easiest way, and layering begins to bear fruit much earlier than seedlings.

Pests, diseases and treatment of pears

Despite the resistance of modern pear varieties to a number of dangerous diseases, bad weather conditions and non-compliance with preventive measures can lead to tree disease:

• scab

on pear affects young branches, leaves, ovaries of pears with characteristic dark spots, 2-4 cm in diameter. Fruits become smaller and hard.

• stem rot

occurs from frost or sunburn, with poor care or lack of nutrients. The bark of the pear tree turns dark red and the tree dries up.

• powdery mildew

a fungal disease of a pear, characterized by a whitish coating covering the branches, leaves and flowers, which leads to the fall of the ovaries.

• pear sucker

it feeds on the cell sap of trees, as a result of which the buds, leaves or buds of the pear fall off.

• pear codling moth

lays eggs on pear fruits, and caterpillars that appear devour the pulp.

Timely treatment of pears with insecticidal preparations, colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid, as well as sanitary pruning and burning of affected pear shoots and foliage help prevent the spread of the disease and in most cases save the plant.

Types of pears, names, descriptions and photos

The modern classification includes 33 pear species, divided into 2 botanical sections - Pashia and Pyrus. Below are several varieties:

• common pear or wild(Pyrus communis, Pyrus domestica )

large shrub or tree up to 20 meters high. This type of pear gave rise to most of the cultivars grown in the temperate climate zone. In nature, the wild pear is distributed from Eastern Europe to Western Asia. It is considered a good honey plant and a valuable dietary product. Varieties of common pear:

• • Pyrus communis L. subsp. Communis
  • Pyrus communis L. subsp. caucasica– Caucasian pear
  • Pyrus communis L. subsp. pyraster– Forest pear

• forest pear(Pyrus communis subsp. pyraster)

subspecies of the common pear. It grows in the form of low shrubs (up to 4 meters) and trees growing up to 20 meters. Forest pear gave birth to hundreds of cultivated varieties, and thanks to its durable wood, it is successfully used in carpentry and turning. This tree grows in the forests and forest-steppes of Central and Eastern Europe.

• pear boisier(Pyrus boissieriana)

drought-resistant, rare species of pear, grows to a limited extent in Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, where it is listed in the Red Book. It is also found in northern Iran. Used as rootstock and hybridization.

• pear pear(Pyrus pyrifolia)

drought-resistant, not demanding on soils, has a trunk height of up to 20 m, varietal plants grow up to 6 m. The pear-leaved pear grows in the countries of Central Asia and the Far East of Russia. It is widely used in agriculture, has a high decorative purpose, and is revered as a sacred tree in China.

• Ussuri pear(Pyrus ussuriensis)

grows up to 15 meters tall and is characterized by increased frost resistance, due to which it is used in breeding as a starting material. The Ussuri pear is widespread in the Far East region of Russia, China and Korea.

• pear(Pyrus elaeagrifolia)

characterized by a small height up to 10 m and high resistance to frost (up to -25 degrees). Small pear fruits are used in cooking, and trees are used as a rootstock and for landscape gardening. In the wild, the loholist pear is found in the Crimea and the Caucasus.

• willow pear(Pyrus salicifolia)

This type of pear reaches a height of 8-10 m. The crown of the willow pear is lush, with openwork foliage and early mass flowering. The fruits are small and inedible, so the pear is mainly used as a rootstock for new varieties and as an ornamental plant.

Pear varieties - names, descriptions and photos. Pear classification

By maturity:

• Summer (early) pear varieties,
• Autumn (medium) varieties of pears,
• Winter (late) varieties of pears.

Fruit size:

• Large (large-fruited) varieties of pears,
• Medium varieties of pears,
• Small (small-fruited) varieties of pears.

According to the method of application:

• decorative pear,
• Fruit pear.

For winter hardiness:

• Winter-hardy (frost-resistant) varieties of pears,
• Not winter-hardy varieties of pears.

Height:

• Tall varieties of pears,
• medium-sized varieties of pears,
• low-growing varieties of pears,
• Dwarf pear varieties.

Crown type:

• Varieties of pears with a pyramidal crown,
• Varieties of pears with a rounded crown,
• Columnar varieties of pears.

Taste:

• sweet pears,
• Sweet and sour pears
• Pears with a tart-bitter taste.

Pollination method:

• Self-pollinated (self-fertile) varieties of pears;
• Non-self-pollinating varieties of pears.

Now consider each classification separately with examples of varieties.

Early (summer), middle (autumn), late (winter) pear varieties, description and photos

Depending on the timing of ripening, pears are divided into early (summer), medium (autumn) and late (winter) varieties.

Early varietiespears ripen in late July - August, in cold regions, harvesting occurs in early September. Summer pear should be collected on time. Overripe and shedding of fruits should not be allowed. Depending on the variety, summer pears are stored in a cool place for 7 to 17 days. Despite the limited shelf life, early fruits are distinguished by juiciness, excellent taste and high commercial value.

The following early (summer) pear varieties are considered the most popular among gardeners:

• "Chizhovskaya";
• "August dew";
• "Julia";
• "Space";
• "Krasulya";
• "Cathedral";
• "Severyanka";
• "Victoria".

Variety Severyanka

Autumn (medium) varietiespears can be harvested in September - early October, the fruits are distinguished by a short removable period, which is reduced in a particularly hot summer season. Autumn varieties of pears are stored in a cool place for 45 to 70 days, their taste improves significantly during storage. Most autumn varieties have increased resistance to frost.

The best medium (autumn) pear varieties:

• "Autumn Dream";
• "Fun";
• "Favorite Yakovlev";
• "Muscovite";
• "Beauty Chernenko";
• "The conference";
• "Nerussa";
• "Simply Maria".

Variety Conference

Winter (late) varietiespears enter removable maturity in mid-autumn, and then ripen during storage, so they are grown mainly in regions with a mild climate. At a temperature of + 3-5 degrees late winter pear, depending on the variety, is stored until January - April next year.

The most famous winter varieties of pears:

• "Pervomaiskaya";
• "November";
• "Nika";
• "Cure" ("Williams Winter");
• "Hera";
• "Belarusian late";
• "Kondratievka";
• Yakovlevskaya.

Variety Williams winter

Small, medium and large varieties of pears, description and photos

Depending on the size and weight of the fruit, there are large-fruited, medium and small-fruited pear varieties.

Large varieties of pear fruits weighing from 200 to 500 g and above. A pear with large fruits is characterized by stable fruiting and motivates owners to set personal records for growing giant fruits without the use of any chemicals.

The best large pear varieties:

• "Bere Dil" (250-500 g);
• "Marianna" (200-350 g);
• "Marshal Zhukov" (320-560 g);
• "Autumn large" (200-250 g);
• "Space" (300-550 g);
• "Prominent" (350-540 g);
• Clapp's Favorite (250-450 g);
• "Bere Ardanpon" (200 - 250 g).

Variety Clapp's Favorite

Medium (medium-sized) pear varieties- fruits weighing from 80 to 200 g. The most numerous varietal group is characterized by increased fertility, which is why most trees are often overloaded with a crop.

Popular medium varieties of pears:

• "Ilyinka" (up to 150 g);
• "Melting" (up to 200 g);
• "Dicolor" (up to 150 g);
• "Talgar beauty" (up to 200 g);
• "Muratovskaya" (up to 150 g);
• "Chizhovskaya" (up to 120 g);
• "Lada" (up to 120 g);
• "Annushka" (up to 140 g).

Variety Chizhovskaya

Small (small-fruited) varieties of pears have a mass of fruits of 30-80 grams and are most often intended for the processing and preparation of compotes, jams, marmalades and other desserts.

The best small varieties of pears:

• "Ultra early";
• "Olga";
• "Myth";
• "Veselinka";
• "The first swallow";
• "Thumbelina";
• "Moscow";
• "Northern".

Variety Severyanka

According to the method of application, pears are divided into fruit and ornamental.

Fruit pear (technical, table, universal) - varieties, description and photos

Fruit varieties of pears are divided into technical, table (dessert) and universal.

Technicalpear varieties more for recycling. The fruits cannot boast of high commercial qualities, but they have an excellent taste and aroma, and therefore are actively used in cooking and for conservation.

Technical varieties of pear:

• "Oryol summer";
• "Melitopol juicy";
• "Granddaughter";
• "Dangling";
• "Allegro".

Variety Allegro

Canteens (desserts)) pears are consumed mainly fresh. The varieties are distinguished by excellent presentation, good keeping quality and transportability, and of course, excellent taste.

The most famous varieties of dessert pear:

• "Bronze";
• "Dawn";
• "Banquet";
• "Marble";
• "Perun";
• Quiet Don.

Grade Marble

Universal varieties of pears are used both for processing and for fresh consumption.

The best universal varieties of pears:

• "Zoya";
• "Otradnenskaya";
• "Take winter Michurina";
• "Black Sea Amber";
• "Podkumok";
• "Academic".

Variety Otradnenskaya

Decorative pear: varieties, description and photos

Decorative pear comes from China, a rare guest in the gardens of Russia. Trees of ornamental varieties are very attractive, so they are ideal for landscaping private gardens and city parks. The fruits of most varieties of decorative pear are small and inedible, but this disadvantage is easily compensated by unusually beautiful foliage that forms graceful crowns, as well as high winter hardiness.

The best varieties of decorative pear:

• "Calier Chanticleer";
• "Beach Hill";
• "Loach";
• "Liana".

Variety Beach Hill

Winter-hardy pear varieties, description and photo

According to the degree of winter hardiness, there are varieties of pear that are resistant to frost, suitable for growing in conditions of risky farming, and non-winter-hardy varieties cultivated in areas with a warm climate.

Winter-hardy (frost-resistant) pear varieties bred mainly in the Far East from the Ussuri pear, the most winter-hardy in the world. Most varieties were selected in the last century, they are reliable, time-tested and do not freeze out at a temperature of -30-35 degrees.

The best winter-hardy varieties of pears:

• "Smart Efimova";
• "Theme";
• "Lel";
• "Krasnopakharskaya";
• "Tyutchevskaya";
• "Dulya Novgorodskaya";
• "Thin coat";
• "Uralochka".

Variety Uralochka

Not winter hardypear varieties can be grown in the northern regions at your own risk, but in severe winters most varieties freeze out, although some agricultural practices can increase the frost resistance of trees.

Frost resistant pear varieties:

• "Enchantress";
• "Yeseninskaya";
• "January";
• "Kieffer" ("Kieffer Seedling");
• "Bere Russian";
• "Kupava";
• "Morning freshness";
• "Black Sea Amber".

Variety Yeseninskaya

Tall, medium-sized, undersized, dwarf pear - varieties, description and photo

According to the height of the stem, tall, medium, short and dwarf varieties of pears are distinguished.

Tall pear varieties can grow over 6 meters in height, which greatly complicates their care and harvest. Therefore, tall varieties primarily need the correct and timely formation of the crown.

The best tall varieties of pears:

• "Annushka";
• "Saint-Germain";
• "Malyaevskaya late";
• "Gimrinskaya";
• "Apple";
• "Shuranovka No. 3";
• "Oryol beauty";
• "Larinskaya".

Variety Apple-shaped

medium height pear varieties grow up to 5 - 5.5 meters and make up the largest group:

• "Original";
• "Dagestan summer";
• "Central Russian";
• "Shihan";
• "October";
• "Goryachevodskaya";
• "Petrovskaya";
• Moscow Bergamot.

Variety Dagestan summer

Undersized (weak)pear varieties do not exceed 4.5 m in height:

• "Morning freshness";
• "Williams" ("Duchesse Summer", "Bon Chrétien Williams", "Bartlett", "Williams Summer");
• "Michurinskaya beauty";
• "Otradnenskaya";
• "Admiral Gervais";
• "Alyonushka";
• "Mashuk";
• The Triumph of Pakgam.

Variety Williams summer

dwarf pear, having a height of 2.5 - 3 m, is very popular among owners of small summer cottages. In addition to their compact size, dwarfs begin to bear fruit on the 3rd year of planting, which, in relation to a pear, can be considered an exceptional precocity. Dwarf pears grafted onto chokeberry or shadberry are characterized by increased winter hardiness; they often freeze on quince. Regardless of the rootstock, all dwarf pears produce fruits of excellent quality, in no way inferior to their tall counterparts.

The best varieties of dwarf pear:

• "Bere Ardanpon";
• "Bere Gardy";
• "Veles";
• "Grand Champion" ("Big Champion");
• "Patriotic";
• "Parisian";
• "Rossoshskaya beautiful";
• "Carmen".

Variety Parisienne

Rounded, pyramidal, columnar pear - description, varieties and photos

Each variety of pear forms its own type of crown, pyramidal or rounded, a separate group includes columnar pears. Pears grow quickly, and in many species the shape of the crown changes during the development of the tree. The final formation of the crown type occurs at the age of 10 years.

Pear with a pyramidal crown- a slender and beautiful tree that requires regular pruning and careful shaping.

Varieties of pyramidal pears:

• "Alexandrin Dulyar";
• "Yurievskaya";
• "Memorial";
• "Devo";
• "Recordist";
• "Prominent" ("Lumpy");
• "Kabardinka";
• "Bashkir summer".

Variety Yurievskaya

Pears with a round crown it is advisable to plant in spacious gardens, because for the full development of the tree you need a lot of light. The naturally formed, rounded crown of the pear tree needs annual corrective pruning.

Varieties of pears with a rounded crown:

• "Bergamot of Dagestan";
• "Early Sergeeva";
• "Victoria";
• "Kupava";
• "Gimrinskaya";
• "Autumn Susova";
• "Ilyinka";
• "Svarog".

Variety Victoria

columnar pear for many gardeners it is still a novelty, but in a short time it managed to find a lot of admirers, gaining popularity and a place of honor in the gardens of Russia. Columnar pears belong to the category of dwarfs, the height of an adult tree does not exceed 2.5 m. Due to the weak growth of branches, the tree has an unusual shape resembling a column, and the fruits are located near the trunk itself. Original trees do not take up much space, bear fruit in 2-3 years of planting, have increased frost resistance and exceptional fruit taste. The only drawback of the columnar pear can be considered a short life; after 10-12 years, the pear orchard will have to be updated.

The best varieties of columnar pear:

• "Knight - Vert";
• "Sapphire";
• "Honey";
• "Decor";
• "Carmen";
• "Tenderness";
• "Pavlovskaya";
• "Sanremy".

Variety Sapphire

Sweet, sweet-sour, tart-bitter pears - varieties, descriptions and photos

The taste of the fruits of the pear tree primarily depends on the source material, which became the ancestor of the variety. Also, the taste of the fruit can be affected by weather, harvest time and storage conditions. The varietal variety of pears implies 3 main tastes of fruits: sweet, sweet-sour and tart-bitter.

Sweetpears rightfully considered the most popular and universal. Juicy sweet fruits have a great taste and are ideal for any kind of preparation. In addition, sweet pears are quickly absorbed by the body and do not cause indigestion. The best varieties of sweet pears:

• "Autumn sweet";
• "Honey";
• "Dessert";
• "Summer Duchess";
• "Yeseninskaya";
• "Botanical";
• "Children's";
• "January".

Variety Yeseninskaya

Sweet and sourpears make up the largest varietal group and are valued for their exceptional, tonic and refreshing taste, and also have a beneficial effect on liver function and increase appetite. Varieties of sweet and sour pears:

• "Firefly";
• "Betaulskaya";
• "Karataevskaya";
• "Skorospelka from Michurinsk";
• "Talitsa" ("Skorospelka Sverdlovsk");
• "Volga autumn";
• "Original";
• "Bere Napoleon" ("Napoleon", "Bonaparte").

Variety Skorospelka from Michurinsk

bitter-tart, astringent taste of pear due to the increased content of tannins in the peel of the fruit. Varieties of pears with a tart taste:

• "Bere Moscow";
• "Pervomaiskaya";
• "Astrakhan early";
• "Belolistka";
• "Krasnoyarsk large";
• "Siberian".

Variety Bere Moscow

Self-pollinated (self-fertile) pears - varieties, descriptions and photos

The vast majority of pear varieties are self-fertile, cross-pollinated and require a pollinator better than a specific variety. Therefore, having planted one pear, you can not wait for the harvest at all. The self-fertility of a pear is a rare and very valuable quality, especially during the cold seasons, when there are few pollinating insects in the gardens due to bad weather. Varieties prone to self-pollination produce a stable pear crop in all weather conditions.

Self-fertile (self-pollinated) pear varieties:

• "In memory of Yakovlev";
• "Chizhovskaya";
• "Banquet";
• "Take winter Michurina";
• "Jubilee Korneeva".

Grade Memory Yakovlev

The following pear varieties show partial self-fertility:

• "Victoria";
• "Severyanka red-cheeked";
• "Rossoshskaya beautiful."

Variety Severyanka red-cheeked

The benefits of pears for the body. Vitamins and minerals in pear

Pear contains vitamins A, E, C, K, group B in an amount superior to many other fruits, as well as a large amount of minerals: potassium, calcium, phosphorus, sodium, folic acid. In folk and official medicine, the pear is considered a recognized dietary product and a natural source of energy. The unique mineral composition and beneficial properties of pears help fight many diseases:

• potassium normalizes the work of the heart, lowers cholesterol, improves metabolic processes;
• calcium, phosphorus and magnesium strengthen the structure of bone tissue;
• sodium maintains water-salt balance and pancreatic function;
• folic acid improves the hematopoietic system;
• anti-inflammatory antibiotic arbutin reduces the risk of prostatitis;
• tannins stop diarrhea.

Pear fruits contain fructose and a small amount of calories (42-58 kcal / 100 g), therefore they are invaluable as a dietary food and are recommended for diabetes.

Pear: harm and contraindications

• For people of advanced and senile age who have a history of any disorders of the nervous system or diseases of the gastrointestinal tract (especially with stomach ulcers), sour or too tart varieties of pears are absolutely contraindicated.
• Pear pulp contains a lot of hard fiber, which irritates the weakened diseased intestines and is digested for quite a long time.
• Dried pear fruits are quite tasty, but very high-calorie product, so those who want to lose weight should not include them in their menu.

• Until the moment when tobacco appeared in European countries, pear tree leaves dried and crushed in a mortar were used for smoking.
• In the 17th century, the fruit of the pear was called the "butter fruit", as its soft texture resembled such a product.
• In ancient Greece, fragrant pear fruits were used as a remedy for nausea.
• The rulers of professional architects are still made from pear wood, because this tree is absolutely not deformed.
• Pear fruits are often recommended as complementary foods for babies weaned by mothers: this fact is associated with a low allergenicity and minimal acidity of the fruit.

Folk wisdom says that it is impossible to grow a good tree from a bad seedling. And therefore, when choosing and buying seedlings for ours, we must remember this. In this article, we will try to give some tips on how to choose seedlings: apple trees, pears, cherries.

But peach seedlings are recommended to be planted only at the age of one. This is due to the fact that when older trees are dug up, most of the fibrous roots are lost. And the “health” of any plant largely depends on the condition and viability of its underground part - the root system.

It must be remembered that the loss of the tree's root system must be compensated by cutting off its ground part. Thus, we contribute to the further growth of the tree. This rule must be observed when transplanting trees. Given that when digging up an adult tree, a lot of fibrous roots are lost and, as a result, many of its branches are cut off. Such a tree, when transplanted, will lose a lot of energy and will be more susceptible to disease. Naturally, in this case, the fruitfulness of the tree will be quite low.

High-quality fruit seedlings are characterized by a developed root system - skeletal and overgrowing roots without cancerous growths, which should be at least 35-40 cm long. The ground part of the seedling should have at least three well-developed side branches. The stem of the seedling itself should be even, without mechanical damage. The thickness of the plant near the root collar should be at least 15 mm.

Individual gardeners prefer to choose vigorous growing seedlings that have thick boles and long branches that have not completed their growth. Or they simply choose seedlings with a stem height of more than 1.5 m and without branches. In this case, it must be remembered that when choosing low-quality planting material, in the future our trees will often get sick. And we will not be able to form the necessary crown, which can significantly affect not only the shape of the tree, but also its yield.

The height of the future tree directly depends on the height of the stem of the seedling. A taller tree will grow from a seedling with a taller trunk. Therefore, the optimal stem height is distinguished for each species of fruit trees. For example, for apple and pear trees, it should be 70-90 cm, for sweet cherries - 50-70 cm, for medium-sized cherries - up to 60 cm, for low-growing cherries - 40 cm, for apricots - 50-70 cm, for peach - 50-60cm.

The best option is to purchase seedlings that were dug out on the same day and plant them immediately. But it doesn't always work out. Therefore, experienced gardeners recommend that the roots of seedlings be immersed in a solution prepared from humus and clay. So that the seedling can be preserved after being dug up, to replenish the lost moisture, it is placed in water with a temperature of about 18 degrees Celsius. You can add a few tablespoons of bee honey to the water. In this way, the seedling is stored for 8 hours.

Video: How to choose seedlings

In order for juicy ripe apples and pears to please the gardener all year round, he should familiarize himself with the varieties of these fruit trees and the features of caring for them. It is important to understand that proper pruning, planting, watering, fertilizing and spraying against pests are effective ways to maintain the beauty and health of the garden.

What is a garden without an apple tree? This fruit crop can be found in any corner of Russia. Pear gardeners grow less often: it is more thermophilic and not always possible in the northern regions. Despite the undoubted differences, these cultures still have a lot in common. The main thing is that in your garden they make friends and bear excellent fruit!

Apple tree and pear tree in the garden

Apple and pear are the most prominent representatives of pome fruit trees. Care for them is almost the same: watering, fertilizing, pest and disease control, full and timely harvesting.

On a traditional plot of six acres, it is quite possible to place several apple and pear trees of various varieties. When choosing, follow not only your tastes and preferences, but also take into account the degree of winter hardiness of these crops, their resistance to the fungal disease to which they are susceptible - scab. Pay attention to the time of the appearance of the first crops, the regularity of fruiting, the size of the tree.

We will pay special attention to the correct choice of varieties of apple and pear trees.

The most important question when choosing a variety of apple or pear is the ripening period.

Summer varieties are especially necessary for a family with children spending the summer in the country. In this case, it is not at all necessary to grow a whole tree of each variety! It is better to regraft half of the apple tree of one summer variety with other summer varieties that differ in ripening time. Or half a pear of a summer variety - autumn.

As for apple trees, it is more rational to grow more autumn varieties in the family garden. Then the family will be provided with their own apples until late autumn - straight from the tree!

Early ripe apple and pear varieties

They are so long-awaited and tasty, but, unfortunately, short-lived! And practically untransportable. Therefore, I recommend removing summer apples and pears from the tree a little earlier than they finally ripen.

Grow apples of different ripening periods.

The apple season in the garden is opened by Summer Striped, Early Red, Yellow Arkad, Early Golden China, Cypress, July Petrova, Early Grushovka, July Chernenko.

About a week later, Moscow Grushovka, Mantet, Papirovka, Korobovka, Solntsedar, Ottawa ripen.

Successfully fills the "empty" period from the end of summer to the appearance of autumn varieties Dessert Budagovsky, ripening 10-12 days later than Melba.

And the first harvest of sweet and fragrant pears is given to us by Skorospelka from Michurinsk, which ripens already at the end of July. By mid-August, other annuals, August dew, Cosmic, Lada, Severyanka, Chizhovskaya, also ripen.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with long shelf life

Apples and pears of these varieties are distinguished not only by their high taste, but also by their long shelf life.

Apples from the good old Antonovka are perfectly stored until the New Year. And modern varieties of apples until spring! Among them are Lobo, Mekanis, Orlik, Asterisk, Beforest, Memory of Michurin, Welsey, Calvil golden, Student, Polinka, Noris, Berkutovskoe, Spartan, Bogatyr, Kulikovskoe, Mekintosh, Imrus, Stroevskoe, Bolotovskoe, Celandine.

Record holders for keeping quality: Moscow later, Moscow winter, Rossiyanka,
Northern Sinap, Orlovsky Sinap, Belarusian Sinap, Verbnoe, Winter Beauty, Freshness. Their fruits last almost until next summer!

And among the pears there are "long-livers". All of them are autumn and winter varieties. I recommend the following: Muscovite, Memory of Yakovlev, Favorite Yakovleva, Elegant Efimova, Memory of Zhegalov. You will keep such pears until the middle of winter.

Sweet varieties of apple trees

Having such apples in the garden is especially important for people who do not like ordinary, sweet and sour or they are contraindicated for them.

Among the sweet varieties stand out Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Vityaz, Candy, Medok, Melba, Pepin saffron, Pink excellent, Renet Chernenko.

Apple varieties of intensive type

These varieties are characterized by early onset of fruiting, plentiful and regular harvests. For example, while most varieties begin fruiting in the 5-7th year, intensive varieties begin to bear fruit already in the first 3 years after planting. Choose Folk, Winner, Student, Melba, Lobo, Welsey, Dessert Isaeva, Mekanis, Young Naturalist, Orlik, Zhigulevskoye, Northern Sinap, Antey, Darunak, Imant, Memory Kovalenko, Haste.

The so-called spur varieties are famous for superintensity. Low-growing trees with shortened internodes are completely covered with “fruiting points” - ringlets. Most of them come from American varieties and are grown mainly in our south: Delicious, Golden Delicious, Mekintosh.

Apple varieties with annual fruiting

Do you want to have an apple harvest every year, and not once every 2 years, as usual? Then choose varieties such as Folk, Autumn Joy, Zhigulevskoye, Northern Sinap, Rossiyanka, Pepin Saffron, Antey. Trees of such varieties are characterized by moderate flowering, less tall, relatively compact. This allows them to be planted more densely, increases the yield per unit area and makes it easier to care for them. The varieties Narodnoye, Brusnichnoye, Yuny naturalist, Zhigulevskoye, Studencheskoye are distinguished by a relatively small size of the tree.

Scab-resistant apple and pear varieties

Scab is a common fungal disease of fruit trees. Especially often it affects apple and pear trees in rainy springs. The only salvation from it is spraying trees with chemicals.

Plant scab-resistant varieties. From apple trees I recommend Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Autumn joy, Cinnamon new, Renet Chernenko, Winner, Dessert Isaeva, Welsey, Young naturalist.
Of the pear varieties, the most resistant to scab are Cosmic, Lada, Severyanka, Severyanka red-cheeked, Skorospelka from Michurinsk, Chizhovskaya.

How to care?

The main thing in caring for apple and pear trees is proper watering and fertilization. I offer you an effective way to water them - through pipes. We retreat from the trunk a distance equal to the radius of the projection of the crown on the ground. We make a hole in the ground with a rotation, dig into it a piece of a plumbing pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 1 m. Its upper edge should rise slightly above the ground. Through this pipe we will water the tree and apply liquid fertilizers to the soil. After each watering, close it with a lid so that dirt and fallen leaves do not get inside. There should be at least four such pipes around each tree. With such a system of watering and feeding, the nutrient solution immediately goes directly to the roots of the tree!

And a few more words about watering. Apple and pear trees require at least 4 plentiful waterings over the summer. How much water to pour? To answer this question, estimate the size of the near-trunk circle of a tree in square meters by eye and multiply the resulting number by 3. That's how many buckets of water a tree needs!

What to do if the apple tree does not bear fruit?

An apple tree, with the exception of intensive varieties, usually begins to bear fruit in the 5-7th year after planting. But sometimes the start of fruiting is delayed. Why? There may be several reasons. First, we check if we deepened the neck of the tree too much when planting. If so, the apple tree will have to be raised. The second possible reason is the vertical growth of the branches. Fruit shoots of an apple tree are formed only on horizontal branches. Therefore, with the help of weights or braces, we give them a horizontal position.

There is another old "grandfather's" way to make an apple tree bear fruit. We drive a few rusty nails into the trunk of an apple tree or simply bury various metal objects in the trunk circle.

This is how we replenish the missing supply of iron for fruiting. Try it! Do not trust "grandfather's" advice? Then do not forget to spray the apple tree 2-3 times per season with a 0.1% solution of ferrous sulfate (1 teaspoon of vitriol per 10 liters of water).

How to plant?

Apple trees and pears can be planted in autumn and spring. We plant immediately in a permanent place - these fruit crops do not like transplants. And it is better to have several varieties at once - for pollination.
We dig deep planting pits (100-120 cm), since the root system of these fruit trees has a diameter of up to 80 cm and is located at great depths. In the pit we lay manure or vegetable humus (2-3 buckets), 1 cup of superphosphate, 3 tablespoons of potassium sulfate, 1 kg of organic fertilizer "Berry Giant" or "Berry", 2 buckets of coarse sand. We mix everything with the soil previously taken out of the pit. Then we dilute 2 cups of dolomite flour or fluff lime in 10 liters of water and pour it into the pit. Pour 2 buckets of water there and leave the pit for 6-7 days.

Before planting, we drive a stake into the ground, which will support the young tree. Its length is not important: the main thing is that it ensures the stability of the seedling. Pour soil into the hole until a mound forms. We take a seedling, put it on a mound, spread the roots evenly and cover it with soil. In this case, the root neck should be 5-6 cm above the ground. When planting, shake the seedling several times so that there are no voids between the roots and the soil. Then we slightly trample the earth, water it and mulch with a small layer of dry humus to retain moisture.

How to cut?

In most varieties of apple and pear trees, the crown forms naturally and does not require significant pruning. The only exceptions are vertically growing top shoots. We cut some of them into a ring, and leave some as a continuation.

To scare away pests, plant tansy of skeletal or semi-skeletal branches under an apple or pear tree. At the same time, we give the tops a horizontal position - otherwise they will not bear fruit.

How to prepare fruit trees for winter?

For the successful overwintering of apple and pear trees, not only the degree of frost resistance inherent in the variety is important, but also the proper preparation of trees. If the first does not depend on us, then the second is our direct responsibility!
Timely and complete harvesting of fruits, watering, fertilizing, pest and disease control ensure not only a high yield, but also a safe overwintering of trees.

To mitigate the effects of winter cold, you can use frost-resistant stamp formers or pile up tree boles with forks of skeletal branches with snow. A good effect is obtained by growing apple and pear trees in a “creeping” form, which makes it possible to protect them from frost without any problems with any covering material.

Keep in mind that young pears freeze more often. Therefore, in winter we warm them more thoroughly with snow and cover the stems.

In order for our fruit trees to overwinter well, the garden needs to be disinfected in late autumn. Usually, solutions of preparations containing copper and iron are used for this. But these elements accumulate in the bark and soil, and in high concentrations become toxic. In my garden, I use a soap-ash solution for disinfection. For 10 liters of water I take 5 glasses of wood ash. I fall asleep it in an old nylon stocking, so that later I don’t have to filter the solution. I fill it with water and insist for 2 days, periodically moving the stocking with ash. I add 40 g of laundry soap to the finished solution - for better adhesion to the bark. With this solution, in dry, clear weather, I process all the branches and trunks of fruit trees.

Do not forget about the autumn watering and feeding of apple and pear trees. The immunity of trees to low temperatures depends on this.

In autumn, when active growth ends and the need for nitrogen is reduced to a minimum, trees need phosphorus and potassium. It is these elements that are especially actively washed out of the soil in winter.

We free the near-stem circle of the plant from mulch and apply fertilizer. We dig into the soil with a rake. Then water and mulch with a thick layer of dry grass.
Our garden is now ready for winter!

Pear Care

Caring for a pear is not much different from caring for an apple tree, but there are some minor differences.

Landing place

The pear, more than other fruit trees, requires warm places protected from the prevailing winds. Particular attention should be paid to the relief of the site, the elimination of microdepressions in which water stagnates and the soil becomes compacted, which leads to the death of trees.

The growth of a pear and its yield are primarily related to the quality of the soil. It must be structural and fertile. This culture tolerates any soil. The only exceptions are sandy and gravel. But the taste and aroma of fruits, the consistency of the pulp of a pear depends on the properties of the soil to a greater extent than in other fruit plants. The reaction of the soil is also essential. Pear grows best on slightly acidic and neutral, rather loose lands. When swamped, the roots are more difficult to absorb iron, and the trees become ill with chlorosis. Varieties grafted on low-growing rootstocks, such as quince, need more fertile soils than those grafted on vigorous ones (pear seedlings).

A pear at a young age requires more moisture, since at this time the tap root has very few root lobes. And when the roots grow and reach a considerable depth, the pear, on the contrary, reacts negatively to excess moisture in the lower layers of the soil. Moreover, with prolonged waterlogging, the roots die off. Excess moisture is eliminated by drainage (drainage) of the soil and cultural grassing (grass sowing).

The pear belongs to light-loving plants, so when the lighting is insufficient, the trees develop poorly, their productivity decreases. With favorable lighting, the trees do not stretch and grow more in width, their branches do not become bare. The pear makes the greatest demands on light during flowering and fruit formation. Due to insufficient lighting, flower buds are underdeveloped, and the fruits have a weak color.

Western European, Baltic, as well as many varieties bred in the more southern regions of Russia, cannot be grown where frosts reach 26 ° C and below. Frosts down to 30–35°С are tolerated only by the most winter-hardy Central Russian varieties (Tonkovetka) and Lukashovka (Lida, Olga, Polya).

The nature of winter damage in trees depends on the age of the tree, its condition, the degree of fruiting in the previous year, the compatibility of the variety with the rootstock, and finally, on agricultural technology. Young trees for the first 2-3 years are more sensitive to frost due to damage to the roots when digging out of the nursery. Moreover, the frost resistance of various parts of the tree is not the same: for example, for branches, the critical temperature is minus 25–30 ° C, vegetative buds - 30–35 ° C, flower buds - 25–30 ° C, opened flower buds -4 ° C, flowers - 2 -3°С, ovaries -1-2°С and roots - 8-10°С. The winter-spring period with sunny days is especially dangerous, when the stem and skeletal branches of the pear are very hot during the day and quickly cool at night. Frost resistance in this case is reduced by about a third, especially in the cambium and bark. With their strong cooling and the subsequent death of damaged tissues, sunburns are formed.

As a result of selection, new, more economically valuable varieties have been bred. Of particular interest are the varieties of summer ripening Lada and Chizhovskaya, as well as Vidnaya, Detskaya, Kosmicheskaya, Rogneda. There are many good varieties of autumn ripening. The most valuable are Belorussian late, Nevelichka, Otradnenskaya, Velesa, Vernaya, Thumbelina, Moskvichka, Autumn Susova, Memory of Zhegalova.

From planting to harvest

You can grow seedlings with your own hands. First you need to take care of harvesting rootstock seeds. The best vigorous ones are seedlings of the Tonkovetka variety and local semi-cultivars. As low-growing rootstocks, you can use irgu, chokeberry, mountain ash. Seeds are removed from the fruits when they begin to soften: in shadberry - in July-August, chokeberry - in August-September, mountain ash and pear - in September or early October. For spring sowing, pear seeds are stratified at 0–2 ° C for at least 90 days, shadberry - 90, chokeberry - 80, mountain ash - 90 days. Using undersized rootstocks, such as mountain ash, the gardener takes a little risk. Such seedlings can develop normally at first, and signs of physiological incompatibility appear when they start fruiting due to the high costs of flowering and fruiting. When buying, pay attention to the roots of the seedling: rowan roots.

Seedlings are grafted in the summer with an eye (budding), in the spring - with a cutting or winter vaccination. When budding and grafting with cuttings, it takes at least 3 years to grow a 2-year-old seedling; when grafting in winter, seedlings are obtained a year earlier.

Pears on vigorous rootstocks are planted in pits with a diameter of 100-120 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm, on weakly growing -70 and 50 cm, respectively. To the top layer of soil taken from the pit, add 0.8–1 kg of superphosphate, 0.1–0.15 kg of potassium chloride or 1 kg of wood ash and 1.5 kg of lime. 25–30 kg of organic fertilizers are applied to each pit (manure is preferable). It is better to refuse nitrogen fertilizers, since upon contact with them, the roots may die and the survival conditions worsen. Fill half of the hole with fertilized soil. The root neck of a planted tree should be 4-5 cm above the soil level. Regardless of the weather, the seedling is watered (2-3 buckets per tree). Then the soil is mulched with a layer of peat or compost of at least 5-10 cm. Pears with rounded crowns (ordinary) on vigorous rootstocks are planted at a distance of 7 m between rows, with flat ones -5 m. The distance in the rows is from 3.5 to 4 m. Rows of trees on low-growing rootstocks are 4–5 m apart and 1.5–2 m apart in a row.

Pears will freeze less if varieties are grafted into the crown of a skeletonizer. In this case, a single organism is formed, consisting of three parts: a seedling (a low-growing stock is also possible), a winter-hardy insert (Tonkovetka or onions) and the selected variety. The skeletonizer is grafted with an eye or a cutting (improved copulation or by the bark) in early spring or at the beginning of the growing season. It is important to vaccinate no closer than 20-25 cm from the base of the branch. In this way, it is possible to form a tree with frost-resistant stems and bases of skeletal branches, which are most susceptible to winter damage. Using this method, those who wish can grow a "tree-garden".

In the year of planting, the tree usually grows weakly and almost does not need pruning the next spring. At a young age, when the skeleton of the crown is formed, pruning should be kept to a minimum and carried out only to form the crown. The extra branches are bent to a horizontal position, pulling them with twine to a nail driven into the base of the stem. This technique accelerates the onset of fruiting.

In contrast to the apple tree, the pear crown is rarer and lighter, the annual growth is stronger. If the latter are not cut off, then few branches form on them. Therefore, the shoots are shortened by one quarter. Pruning fruit-bearing trees is needed for high yields and good fruit quality. This is possible if the length of annual increments is at least 30 cm.

When pruning pears, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that two-year-old shoots are shortened, and flower buds are formed on steeply growing shoots. Pears are very prone to crown reshaping due to the appearance of long, steeply growing shoots. Therefore, it is necessary to make regular formative pruning, removing powerful branches from time to time. During summer pruning, the inner parts of the crown are thinned out.

As the trees age, they fail to provide a sufficiently strong growth even with the help of high agricultural technology. In this case, short pruning is the only way to enhance the growth and bookmarking of fruit formations. For this purpose, rejuvenating pruning is carried out every 2–4 years along the entire periphery of the crown, and inside it, the branches are partially cut off for the last annual growth of normal length.

Some pear rootstocks form root shoots. In this case, during the digging of the trunk circles, it is dug up to the place of discharge and cut out without stumps. For young plants with weakly branched roots, soil mulching is of great importance.

fertilizers

It is better to apply fertilizers in autumn into annular grooves 40–50 cm deep along the crown projection or into furrows. Phosphorus and potash fertilizers, together with organic fertilizers, are applied every 5–6 years. Nitrogen fertilizers are fed twice per season: in the spring at the first loosening and during the period of increased shoot growth.

For pear, foliar top dressing is important - spraying trees with nutrient solutions to stimulate growth and crop formation, as well as to increase the frost resistance of trees (1–2% potassium sulfate or nitrate solution and 2–3% superphosphate solution). Spraying trees with a 0.5-1% urea solution is highly effective 8-10 days after flowering, repeated after 10-14 days.

An obligatory element of annual care for protection against sunburn is the early autumn whitewashing of trunks and forks of skeletal branches with a solution of lime or a special water-emulsion white paint VD-KCh-577.

You should not wait for the full ripening of fruits on tree branches in pears of the following varieties: Elegant Efimova, Moscow, Venus, etc.

Fruits from pear Vidnaya, Veles, Petrovskaya are harvested selectively. The harvested crop is ripened in a cool room.