Power bank from a 12 volt battery. Assembling Power Bank with your own hands
$16.93 (bought for $19)
This is already my sixth Powerbank. I decided to write a review about it because it is very different from what I got my hands on before. But I'll start from the beginning. I had 2 powerbanks, each with 4 18650 elements. But using them was not very convenient. Together they weighed quite a lot and had only one 1A USB output. Since I often charged my tablet and phone from them, I had to turn them both on at the same time. Moreover, the capacity of one (18650 cells were far from new) was not enough to fully charge the tablet, and after charging the phone it was necessary to transfer cables and recharge the tablet. Well, these old powerbanks also had protruding on/off keys, often turned on themselves in the bag and did not have auto-off. In short, a lot of inconvenience. Therefore, I decided to look for a powerbank with a larger capacity, at least for 6 18650 elements. I immediately found 2 types at a reasonable price. More precisely, the hero of our review was at a reasonable price, and the second one generally cost $5. Such a low price confused me, so I ordered both types. I’ll tell you about the cheap option in another review (by the way, my fears were unfounded, despite such a low price it turned out to be an excellent powerbank).
A few more photos:
Characteristics from the seller's website:
- Intelligent charging with indicator to show the charging status
- Output current-limiting protection to avoid damage when over load
- With identification resistor, can charge most cell phones as well as iPhone and other Apple products.
- 5V-USB (1) (Apple model): Max 2A support for Apple devices such as ipad iphone and ipod, MP4, Tablet 5V devices
- 5V-USB (2) (Samsung Nokia limiting mode): Limit 1A supports Samsung P1000 Nokia, and MP3, MP4, Tablet 5V devices
- Battery five shows: 100% 80% 60% 40% 20%
- Output: 5V=2A,9V=1.5A,12V=1A
- Input: 5V-2A
- Batteries: 6x 18650 lithium batteries(not included)
I was also interested in the possibility of getting from this powerbank not only 5v on the USB outputs (and there are 2 of them, which means you can charge two devices at the same time), but also a separate output on which you can get 9v and 12v. I thought that I could try to power the echo sounder from this box and not carry a heavy lead battery with me when fishing.
The powerbank was received in a cardboard colored box (all in hieroglyphs), inside in a pleasant-to-touch bag there was the box itself and 2 cables: one for charging the powerbank from USB, the second for powering external devices from 9 or 12 volts. The connectors are different, it is impossible to mix them up. There is no charger included. But I ordered it in advance and already reviewed it.
The box itself is made of very high quality from “soft touch” plastic, pleasant to the touch.
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There are 5 LEDs on the top cover that show the battery charge and the selected voltage. As well as an on/off button and operating mode control.
At the end there are two 5-volt USB connectors for 1A and 2A. And 2 sockets of different diameters for connecting the charging cable and the 9 or 12 volt power cable.
On the back there is a plate with parameters and 4 screws securing the back cover. On the back cover I was interested in the last line before the hieroglyphs. Where the currents are indicated, there is another voltage, 3.7v -4A. The description on the website does not say anything about 3.7v, only 5v, 9v and 12v. It turned out that the voltage is still 3.7 (actually a little more than 4v)!
On the side there is an On-Off switch. I didn’t immediately understand what it was. The powerbank turns on and works both in the ON and OFF positions, there is no difference. At first I thought that this switch simply did not work. But then, experimentally, I established that this switch turns on and off the powerbank’s auto-shutdown system (if the switch is in the ON position and the load is not connected, the powerbank turns itself off after a few seconds, if in the OFF position, it remains on, even if the load is not connected). This is very convenient and a big plus.
Open the box.
Inside we see the charge controller converter board. Everything was done carefully, there was no undiluted gumboil. Everything is beautiful. But the mounting density is low, the board could have been smaller.
On the side there are 6 compartments for 18650 elements. The latter is shifted so that the cover fastening screws are placed between it and the other elements.
There is about a centimeter of free space on the side of the elements. To be honest, the Chinese designers disappointed me here. The box is quite large, but it could be made a centimeter shorter and narrower without any problems. But what is, is what it is.
When connected to the charger, the LEDs light up, indicating the current percentage of battery charge, and the next LED blinks. When charging, the powerbank consumes from 1.5A at the beginning of charging to approximately 0.4A at the end. After the batteries are fully charged, all all-diodes light up and the device is disconnected from charging, current consumption is 0A.
The powerbank is very easy to manage. Press the button on the top cover. The LEDs light up indicating the current battery charge level and go off. Only the LED near the 5V inscription lights up, signaling that the output voltage is 5 volts. Double-clicking the button (or pressing and holding) switches the voltage to 9V, which is indicated by the LED next to the 9V inscription. Another double (or long) press switches to 12V, the next double (long) press turns off the powerbank. This is where the trick with the undocumented 3.7V comes in. When the device is turned off, the output through a 4A current limiter is connected directly to the batteries.
Current limiter (short circuit protection works). Here is a video with an example of turning on, switching modes, turning off.
My conclusions: an excellent, well-made powerbank with advanced capabilities and beautiful performance. The only drawback is the irrational placement of batteries and, as a result, slightly oversized overall dimensions.
Good afternoon, dear readers. Today I want to tell you about the universal power bank Aili 116 or XW116. The power bank was specially ordered for a verification review and test, primarily for myself. I also ordered model 119, but there is already a review on it, so today it will be 116th)
The power bank is supplied only in a bubble wrap and with paper instructions printed on an inkjet printer. Most likely this is the work of the seller, because on the reverse side there is an advertisement for his store.
Equipment 
Additional Information
I really liked the appearance, just like the 119 model, it is made of high-quality plastic with a pleasant matte surface. The battery compartment opens by sliding, which is very convenient; it can be used as a charger. In conventional kit power banks, fastening the lid with latches and constantly replacing batteries is difficult.
4 LEDs are used as a charge indicator, each corresponding to 25% of the power bank's charge.
On the left side of the power bank, there is a voltage switch with limits of 3.6/5/6/9 and 12 volts. On the right is the microUSB input for charging the power bank; according to official information, the charge current holds 2A; in practice, 1.5A, and this is a plus - less will be charged.
At the end there is a USB output, a 5.5x2.1 mm output, a blue indicator LED and a 5 mm flashlight LED.
Inside there is a board with a Hot Chip controller, a choke, a pair of mosfets, electrolytes and powder.
There is a single button on top; it is responsible for turning on the load, indicating the charge and turning on the flashlight. The latter is turned on by double pressing the button and shines as a 5 mm LED should shine.
For this power bank, like the 119 model, you first need to set the output voltage with a switch. For example, if you set the voltage to 5 volts, then it will be present on both the USB and 5.5x2.1 connectors, and if you set any other voltage, then the USB will be zero. This was done on purpose so that smartphones would not be burned.
At 5 volts everything is just fine, with a load of 1A the voltage did not drop. And at 2A it dropped to 4.8 volts, which is also an excellent result. Voltages of 3.6, 5 and 6 volts also hold current well, the only thing that causes problems is that the load must be high-impedance, if you just connect a light bulb, then the power bank goes into protection. At 6 volts the current is 1.5A, at lower voltages it is correspondingly even higher 2A and 2.5A at 3.6 volts.
But the voltages of 9 and 12 volts, under any load that I gave them, go into protection. Even after connecting the router, I could not get it to work. I haven’t figured out what the problem is, but at idle these voltages are present.
Protection at the upper threshold cuts off at 4.15-4.17 V, and at the lower threshold at 3 volts. Such thresholds are found on almost all power banks.
Overall the bank left a good impression. Its advantages are a good current at 5 volts - 2A, a flashlight, a high-quality case and a convenient lid - and this means a quick and convenient replacement of batteries, you can use it as a charger, the presence of additional voltages - albeit with reservations. There is also protection against incorrect voltages; only 5 V is supplied to the USB! And the main disadvantage is poor operation in 9 and 12 volt modes, I will look into this, most likely I got a defect.
In general, if you need good 5V and a high-quality case, then take this one, and if there are high voltages and currents, then Aili 119 - voltage up to 21V and balancing charging!
Below is a video review of this model
I'm planning to buy +7 Add to favorites I liked the review +7 +17
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By purchasing from us, you are guaranteed to receive your purchase as shown in the picture and in the shortest possible time! We organize delivery throughout Russia and the CIS (delivery to Belarus, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, etc.). You can also use our catalog to search for other products (more than 300 million products from all over the world), which we can also order for you. We're offering a great price on the 12V Portable Power Bank, plus you get free access to our extended buyer protection program and free shipping. The price indicated in rubles for all products in this category is final. All orders are insured for 5,000,000 (five million rubles) with Verna SO LLC.
I have already mentioned several times that I am also involved in installing video surveillance systems.
And I decided to order such an unusual Power bank to help myself.
What, why and why, as well as what’s inside and what can be done with it, read under the cut.
Previously there were analog cameras, now they are digital, but they all need power during setup.
With an analog camera you have to use a small TV, but the camera can be powered from the system’s common power supply via an already laid line (if there is one).
I set up digital ones from a laptop, but since all the cameras I install are powered via PoE, the connector is busy and the camera again has to be powered from something external.
Usually I use a 12 Volt 7 Ah battery with a long wire and a double at the end, so that I can even power a camera and a TV at the same time.
In general, I saw this device and decided that it should be more convenient, since a wire hanging from a height is not very convenient.
Ordered, sent.
They sent it in a regular yellow envelope, the device was in a box, wrapped in a thin layer of bubble wrap.
But nothing was broken, not even the box was dented. 
Inside the box was the Powerbank itself, a charger, a cable and instructions. 
I'll start with the Powerbank.
The main characteristics are indicated at the back.
Input voltage - 12.6 Volts.
Output - 10.8-12.6 Volts
Capacity 1800 mAh 
There is nothing special at the top, the inputs/outputs are labeled.
It can be seen that the USB output is labeled; in fact, this device does not have it, but there is (according to the instructions) a version with it. 
At the end there is a power button with an LED, an output connector (also an input for connecting a charger) and a plug covering the missing USB connector. 
The dimensions of the device are not very large, in my opinion.
108x64x26mm.
I didn’t weigh it, because I don’t see much point in it, but if anyone is interested, I can weigh it. 
The device is almost easy to disassemble.
First, 4 screws located on the bottom side are unscrewed, and then the “almost” begins, since the lid is also glued from the inside with double-sided tape.
Inside the video there are three 18650 batteries, on top of which there are protection boards, and you can also see a button, a connector and a resistor for the LED.
That's it, there's nothing else inside. The batteries have the color as in the photo (recently in one of the reviews they wrote that the camera does not perceive purple color well), i.e. violet. 
The batteries are equipped with an external protection board, consisting of several resistors and a controller chip. 
As well as the field-effect transistor, it was not possible to photograph it so that both the microcircuit and the transistor could be seen, so there are two photos. 
As I wrote above, the device is equipped with a charger.
I hid the description and photos of the outside and inside under the cut.
More details
Externally, it is a small charger; many devices come with similar ones. 
There are two LEDs installed at the end, but they are installed a little crookedly. 
The output is stated to be 12.6 Volts 350mA, but we will check this later. 
The build inside is pretty good, I was expecting something worse.
A diode bridge, and not just one diode, a resistor as a fuse, a transistor in a fairly large package (for such power), an output diode of 1 Ampere, and not 100-200mA as is sometimes encountered. You can also see the circuit of the charge end detector on LM358. 
The mounting of the board is double-sided, and even the soldering is neat. In general, so far not bad, although the plug is not European :( 
During charging, two LEDs light up. 
At the end of the charge, only red remains to shine, although in my opinion it would be more logical to do the opposite. It does not get hot during operation, the body has a temperature of about 40 degrees. 
The kit included a cable, the connectors are standard for most devices requiring 12 Volts, plus inside the connector, minus outside.
Cable length is about 50cm. 
The instructions contain the entire list of options for this device; by the way, there are quite a few of them; see the photo for more details. 
Naturally, there were some tests. You could even say that in relation to such devices this is the main test.
The device was not fully charged, so I first connected it to my power supply for testing.
I waited until the charging current dropped, and it showed that 625mAh had gone into the batteries. 
Next, I assembled a simple stand consisting of a current stabilizer circuit.
The current stabilizer is organized using a microcircuit connected according to the appropriate circuit and two resistors. The current is set to 1 Ampere (I calculated that a discharge current of 0.5C would be normal). 
After 5 minutes I measured the voltage, in my opinion it dropped quite a lot.
Well, as they say, they count chickens in the fall, so we will wait until the end of the discharge. 
The discharge lasted about an hour, a little less.
I'll explain why "about".
The device lay next to me, warming me with heat from the radiator, and I periodically looked at it, but I didn’t think that it would discharge so quickly, so I missed the moment of shutdown.
According to my estimates, the discharge time was about 58 minutes (less than an hour, but more than 55 for sure).
Those. capacity is almost 1 Ah with the declared 1.8.
It's sad, I was very upset, I thought it would be better.
To double check, I put it on charge. 
I thought about repeating the operation after charging, but this was not necessary.
The maximum that the power supply could supply to the batteries was 1.07 Ah. There was no point in testing the batteries further.
By the way, it was noticed that the voltage on the batteries is different; one battery clearly has more capacity than the others. 
At this point I finished testing and smoothly moved on to a small improvement, which literally asked for itself.
Description of the improvement
And this device asked for a battery level indicator.
How the developers planned to use the device without it is unclear to me.
To implement my plan, I decided to use one of the solutions I had tested, a microcircuit.
Previously, we installed these microcircuits in uninterruptible power supplies, which we produced ourselves. After that, I still had a number of these microcircuits at home; finding LEDs at home is usually not a problem, and a few other small parts.
Battery charge level indicator circuit. 
I also already had a lace scarf. 
The necessary components were selected. True, over the years I had already forgotten which denominations I used, but in the end, using the scientific method of successive approximation, I got what I needed. 
Since the entire board did not fit, we had to divide it into two parts.
And also when soldering, install the microcircuit parallel to the board. 
There is nothing particularly interesting behind, paths, details :) 
Then I moved the power switch and connector to the side.
Marked the holes for the LEDs with a caliper. For ease of marking, the distance between them is 5mm. 
Since the LEDs were obtained almost exactly in the mesh of the housing halves, I made cuts with a knife. 
After that, I twisted the body (you can squeeze it tightly with your hands, but the drill can release the halves when exiting and the hole will not turn out as it should.
Drill diameter 3mm.
I tried on the board in the case. 
I did the same with the board on which the button is installed, only it requires a hole diameter of 3.5 mm.
I glued both boards with hot glue. First, I applied glue where needed, then I installed the boards in this place, and fixed the button board after that again so that it would not break.
You have to be very careful with the glue, as it is very hot when working and leaves serious burns. 
This is what the insides look like now.
When working, it is better to observe the color differentiation of the pants and markings to make it more convenient to work. 
Before closing the case, I remembered that I forgot to check the current and voltage of the original charger.
At idle, the charger gives exactly 12.6 Volts 
The charge current is 210mA, noticeably lower than indicated on the unit, but I didn’t see anything particularly bad about it. 
This is what the result looks like.
View from the side of the connectors, I tried to place the button so that it would stick out only a little. But the board is turned on in such a way that the indication only works when the power switch is turned on.
By the way. The device charges in the same way, only when the power switch is turned on.
If you don’t turn it on, the LED in the switch will only light, there will be no charge. 
View from the side of installed LEDs. 
The battery is fully charged.
I configured the board so that when the voltage drops to 8.8 Volts, the last red LED goes out, and when the voltage increases to 12.2, the last green LED turns on.
This is rather a purely personal matter, but it seemed convenient to me. 
And this is a test with what I often have to work with, IP camera Hikvision DS-2CD2732F-IS
When connecting the unit, the camera tried to install the power supply driver, the power LED happily lit up, clicked the IR filter curtain and began to work normally. 
Well, as always, with a diagram, tracing and datasheet.
Summary.
Pros.
Good packing.
In general, I liked the design itself, one might even say that it is convenient.
Good overall workmanship, although the crookedly glued batteries look sad.
Minuses
The battery capacity is almost two times less than declared, the biggest disadvantage.
There is no battery charge indication.
The charger has a charge current less than stated, although the workmanship of the charger is quite normal, I think it is even possible to increase the current.
My opinion.
It’s quite possible to use such a device, but I’m not sure whether to buy it or not; it’s probably easier to assemble it yourself.
This device was provided free of charge for review and testing by the chinabuye store.
I hope that my review was interesting and maybe useful and will help you make the right decision. I have not seen any reviews of this device.
I'm planning to buy +12 Add to favorites I liked the review +42 +83Today, devices such as Power bank (autonomous charger) have become firmly established in our everyday life. They greatly facilitate the use of all kinds of modern energy-intensive gadgets, such as tablets and smartphones, as they allow you to quickly recharge in almost any conditions when you are away from a power outlet.
The simplest Power banks have only one type of output - USB, which is the most popular. In more advanced chargers
devices you can find outputs with a voltage that has become the standard supply voltage for low-voltage devices - 12V. This is significantexpands the scope of application of such Power banks, since almost any automotive electronics and many others operate from 12Velectrical consumers. And when using an inverter, you can get 220V if desired.The cornerstone in such Power banks is the issue of capacity. The use of modern high-capacity Li-ion batteries allowscreate in a compact size a power source of sufficient capacity to power any 12 volt device forseveral hours.
Unfortunately, manufacturers often skimp on the quality of built-in lithium batteries to reduce the overall costcharger, which negatively affects the operating time of the Power bank. Therefore, we want to tell you how to make Power yourselfBank using a kit consisting of a multifunctional DC-DC converter, a protection board and housing, and high-quality lithium batteries of a common standard size .
We will need:
Kit for assembling Power Bank model HCX-284 consisting of a multifunctional DC-DC converter and a protection board(PCM) for Li-ion batteries and metal case for 4 Li-Ion 18650 batteries.For lithium cells, we’ll take 4 Panasonic Li-ion batteries model NCR18650B 3.6V with a capacity of 3400mAh
The HCX-284 converter has a stabilized 12V output with a maximum load current of 4A and a 5-volt USB connector with a maximum current of 1A. To charge our Power Bank, you can use any 12V power supply with a 5.5 x 2.5 mm pin connector andmaximum current of at least 1.5A. You can, of course, use a less powerful power supply, but the charging process in this case may takefor quite a long time.
The operating principle of our Power Bank is as follows:
From a battery assembly of 4 series-connected (4S) Li-Ion batteries, we get a nominal voltage of 14.8V. More precisely, thisthe voltage, during operation, will change from 16.8V (fully charged battery) to 12V (fully discharged). Directly toThe batteries are connected to the PCM protection board. It will control these upper and lower voltages, preventing them from going beyondextreme values and protecting lithium cells from overcharging and overdischarging.
From the protection board, the voltage is supplied to the input of the step-down DC-DC converter, which turns our 16.8 - 12V from batteries intostabilized 12V and 5V on the corresponding connectors.
When charging batteries, 12 volts from the “DC In” input of the stabilizer are converted into 16.8 V necessary to charge a 4S Li-Ion battery.
The maximum current supplied to the batteries is 1A and does not depend on the power of your power supply. This allows you to useThe HCX-284 includes lithium batteries with a minimum capacity of about 2000mAh, the charge current of which should not exceed halfvalues from capacity, i.e. approximately 1A.Build process:
1. Using hot glue, glue together a battery of four Panasonic Li-Ion batteries model NCR18650B.
Hot melt adhesive is best used withlow melting point to prevent local overheating of batteries. We pay attention to the quality of the adhesive seams - they are notmust protrude beyond the dimensions of the battery, otherwise it simply will not fit into the case.
2. We use special electrical insulators to prevent contact between the nickel welding strip and the battery housing.
3. We weld Li-Ion cells into a 4S battery using 5x0.127mm nickel tape and a resistance welding machine. Solder Li-Ionbatteries are not recommended due to the fact that they are afraid of overheating, which can greatly reduce their service life. Since the currents in our battery will be inwithin 3-4 amperes, this tape thickness will be more than enough.
We immediately form the terminals of all voltages for subsequent solderingwires to the test pins on the PCM board.
4. Install the PCM on the battery. We form power contacts using only tape. It is more reliable and more compact. Test voltagesWe connect to the board with wires of the smallest cross-section. We used MGSHV 0.2mm, but you can use wire and, for example, MGTF0.14mm.
The controller contacts must be connected in sequence from “minimum” to “maximum”, i.e. first “B-”, then +3.7V, 7.4V,11.1V and the last "B+"
5. We make conclusions from the PCM using a 0.5mm PUGV wire. The length of the leads should be no more than 2 cm. Cover the ends of the battery with insulating tape.arton and pack the batteries in thin shrink film.
At this stage, we have a protected battery that can be used without fear of overcharging or overdischarging. But on the way out,for now, we have an unstabilized voltage, which will change during the discharge process from 16.8V to 12V.
6. Connect the battery to the stabilizer board. To do this, connect the black “negative” wire to the “P-” contact, and the red “positive” wire to
contact “P+” In this case, the stabilizer will blink once with all three LEDs.
7. Install the battery with a soldered stabilizer into the case. We start the installation with the battery, then the stabilizer. Stabilizer boardinstalled in special grooves in the housing.
All. Our handmade PowerBank is ready. We check the work by pressing the only button, which, if not connected
connectors, includes a charge level indication, which shows that our batteries are now fully charged.
Let's calculate the total capacity of our Power Bank:
We used 4 Panasonic batteries model NCR18650B 3.6V with a capacity of 3400mAh. In total, we get 3.4A/h at a voltage of 14.8V.
But we haveThere are 2 voltages at the output: 5V and 12V. It should also be taken into account that the efficiency of the converter is about 90%.
Accordingly, at 5V the capacity of our
battery will be ((14.8*3.4)*0.9)/5 = 9.05Ah This means that with a five-volt load of 1A current, our Power Bank will work for about 9 hours!At 12V the capacity will be: ((14.8*3.4)*0.9)/12 = 3.77Ah
That's basically the whole process. In terms of time, if you have experience and tools, it takes about 1 hour.
If you are not confident in your abilities, we can Power Bank using any Li-Ion batteries present inour catalogue.
In our store there are already assembled, ready-to-use Power Banks based on the H284 kit.