Step-by-step renovation of a Khrushchev-era bathroom. Bathroom design in Khrushchev (real photos). Video - Puttying a ceiling with reinforcing mesh

Repair is generally not an easy undertaking. In the case of small-sized housing, everything is complicated by the small size, and in old houses there is also the problem of worn-out utility networks. Replacing them is also a concern for the owners, since it can take a long time for the management company to replace them. So the renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building usually begins with the replacement of old risers.

A distinctive feature of Khrushchev apartments is the small size of all rooms. The bathroom and toilet are so small that even minimum set- bath + sink - only become compact. Finding a place to install household appliances is a difficult task. The most popular solution is, which almost always affects the bath and toilet. Two microscopic rooms are made into one - a combined bathroom. Due to the fact that the partition is removed, the area increases by almost a square meter, which is very significant in these conditions. In some options, it is possible to increase the space due to the corridor or a nearby storage room. This renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building is technically more difficult and it is more difficult to obtain permission for such a remodel, but anything is possible.

The procedure for renovating a bathroom in Khrushchev

If you decide to make a major renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, the procedure for work will be almost identical, with or without redevelopment. When remodeling, the destruction of the partition, the removal of the door, and the blocking of an unnecessary doorway are added. Further everything is like a carbon copy.

• delete everything Decoration Materials. If the walls and ceiling are crooked (differences of more than 3 cm) or there are voids under the plaster (the sound is dull when tapped, movement is felt when pressed), the plaster is also beaten.
• Decide what plumbing fixtures and household appliances will be installed where, draw a plan to scale. Draw electricity, water, and sewage connections on the plan.
• Show me to the bathroom.
• Replace water supply and sewerage risers (coordination with the management organization is required). Most often old metal pipes exchanged for plastic ones. When replacing a water supply, use or.
• If the water supply and sewerage systems are hidden, they should be placed at a small depth, since there will still be plaster on top. If not, the installation of water supply and sewer pipes is done after finishing the walls.
• Fill the leveling floor screed. You can “roll up” it (water in high-rise buildings is allowed only if there is individual heating, and only if the ceilings can withstand the load).
• Wall and ceiling decoration. Here the sequence of work is different - it depends on the chosen method of finishing and plumbing. If, installation occurs at this stage. At the same time they do. When installing standard plumbing, it is installed after finishing work is completed, so first the half-wall and ceiling are put in order.
  
• Plumbing and household appliances are installed.

There are more and more options for finishing materials. For example, you can lay or on the floor in the bathroom. In this case, a layer of self-leveling mixtures is needed on top of the screed to obtain a durable and level base, and the coating itself is laid last after all work is completed, but before installing the plumbing. In general, the procedure for renovating a Khrushchev-era bathroom can vary significantly.

Increasing functionality

Renovating a bathroom in Khrushchev is not so difficult technical side, how much in terms of creating a beautiful, functional and comfortable room. The small size of the room is the main difficulty. We have to search non-standard solutions when selecting equipment, plumbing and furniture.

Bath or shower

When renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, they often abandon the bathtub in favor of a shower stall. This allows you to find space in a small room to install a washing machine. The most successful solution is a corner shower stall. In this case, a fairly decent piece of space is freed up, in which you can put a washbasin or washing machine.

One option is to install a shower stall with deep tray or just install glass doors in the bathroom

If you still want to lie in the bathtub from time to time, you can compromise with a deep tray. But it is worth remembering that high sides are not very convenient for daily use if there are small children or elderly people. Why are they worse than a regular bathroom? The fact is that you won’t be able to fully lean on them - they are plastic, and they won’t withstand heavy loads.

To make a bathroom in a Khrushchev building more comfortable - the sink can be installed above washing machine

Until you get used to it, it is not very convenient to use the sink - it is installed a little higher than usual, but it is much more convenient than if you install a small one to save space. This, by the way, is also a way out, but not the best.

Design and design tricks

To make the renovation of a bathroom in Khrushchev not only functional, but also beautiful, we select the right finishing materials, their color and texture.

Using every centimeter is the task

Finishing materials and their color

Bathtubs in Khrushchev-era bathrooms are not only small, but their ceilings are low. Because suspension systems if installed, then only at a minimum distance, and this can be achieved by installing Wall lights or built-in ceiling ones, but with LEDs, which are about 3-5 cm thick. This loss will be almost imperceptible, and the work will be significantly less than with subsequent puttying.

It is not necessary to lay tiles on the walls. In this case, smaller mosaics look even better, since large tiles “reduce” the room. Another option for finishing walls in a small bathroom is painting and finishing with decorative plaster. Bathroom paints create no less reliable coverage, but this option costs less money, especially if you putty the walls for painting yourself. It is also moisture resistant, and this type of finish looks modern.

In any case, the ceiling and walls in a small bathroom should be made in light colors, preferably with a slight gloss or pearlescent, silky sheen. This finishing option makes the room visually more spacious. Most often these are shades of beige. A very unobtrusive and democratic color that can be enlivened by some details of brighter colors.

Another technique is that the walls are monochromatic and only approximately in the middle there is a wide strip of a brighter or contrasting color. This technique “pushes” the walls, the room seems larger than it actually is.

Selection of plumbing

If, when renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, you decide to replace the bathtub with a shower cabin, refuse to install a ready-made cabin. Even the smallest one takes up a lot of space, and plastic walls take up space a lot. You literally physically feel the lack of space. Make a pallet from tiles and place glass partitions- more practical solution. The doors can be made sliding - there are a sufficient number of systems that are easy to install with your own hands, and for craftsmen this is not a problem at all.

The colors are light, vertical stripes break the monotony, but the highlight of the interior is the bathtub and sink of a non-standard shape. They complement each other perfectly and both are convenient to use.

When choosing a sink, try to find the option that best fits into your interior. They come in different shapes, sizes, colors. There are wide and narrow, deep and shallow, corner ones - in the form of a sector, such that are partially located above the bathtub. In general, there are many options. Yes, they are more expensive than a standard solution, but if possible, choose beautiful and comfortable plumbing fixtures.

DIY bathroom renovation in Khrushchev: photo report

Apartments in Khrushchev-era buildings are usually inherited or bought by young families. Their condition is usually deplorable; if repairs were made, they were done about 20 years ago. So in this apartment the bathroom doesn’t look very good.

Raw material

This bathroom renovation in Khrushchev is traditional - tiles on the floor and walls, the ceiling is made of PVC panels. It all starts with the removal of all finishing materials.

The next stage is leveling the walls with plaster (without beacons, since the walls are relatively smooth). The floor is covered with a screed made of...

An ideal surface is not needed - tiles will be laid

After the screed has set, laying the tiles on the floor begins. We lay it out diagonally. To make it easier, first draw a plan on the floor (in pencil).

After installation floor tiles We started supplying water and sewerage, installed a bathtub and connected it.

After that, they began laying tiles on the walls. This is not always the case. The second finishing option is to first tile the wall, then install a bathtub, and seal the gap between the wall and the side. The second option is preferable, since at any time you can replace the bathtub or install a shower stall. In the first case, everything will have to be redone.

After the walls were finished, we assembled a frame for the suspended ceiling from plastic panels. Economy option, but later you can change it to any more expensive one.

After that, only the little things remained - hanging the mirror, installing and connecting the sink with a built-in cabinet.

AND finishing touches- a rod near the bathtub, a shelf and hooks.

In winter, unexpectedly, a major overhaul came to our forty-year-old Khrushchev building. But still, as they say, no matter what is done, everything is for the better. Looking at how the plumbers changed the old ones cast iron risers Khrushchev for polypropylene and PVC, I finally gathered my thoughts and realized that if I don’t start major renovations in the bathroom and toilet now, I’ll never start it in this house.

Initial data and idea

The bathroom in my Khrushchev apartment is separate. The clear dimensions of the bathroom are 1520*1360 mm, but with certain manipulations they can be increased by 5-6 cm in each dimension, which I will discuss below.

The main idea of ​​the new bathroom was to turn the bathtub 90 degrees and orient it along the far wall (opposite the front door). In my wife’s and my opinion, this position is more rational, although we understood that we would lose ten centimeters in length.

Preparatory work

I took about two weeks to prepare for the immediate start of work in the bathroom to decide on the design of the future bathroom: draw up the wiring of water supply and sewerage, ventilation, tile laying scheme, etc.

So, what is a bathroom like in a typical Khrushchev panel building? In fact, this is just a cabin that was cast somewhere at DSK and already assembled was installed in its place in the Khrushchev during construction. The cabin walls have a scanty thickness of 3-5 cm and are made of reinforced gypsum concrete. The material is very weak and easily crumbles with a hammer drill or even a hammer. In the figure below, the walls of the “cabin” are shaded and, as we see, they are adjacent to two load-bearing walls of the Khrushchev building, in one of which (between the kitchen and the bathroom) there are ventilation shafts.

In renovation practice, the most common option is to demolish the Khrushchev-era partition between the toilet and the bathroom, which supposedly makes the bathroom more spacious and creates a lot of additional space. However, in my opinion, this is the most common misconception: no matter how much I tried to hypothetically design such a “spacious” combined bathroom in my Khrushchev-era apartment building, nothing worked out for me.

As I already said, the dimensions of the bathroom in my Khrushchev-era apartment are 1360*1520 mm. We had a 150 cm bathtub on the long side, which we decided to replace with a 140 cm one and put it on the short side. For this, from the existing dimensions, I was missing 4 cm, which I decided to obtain by demolishing the wall of the bathroom adjacent to the load-bearing wall of the Khrushchev-era building. ventilation shafts. This "plasterboard" was broken with a regular mason's hammer in just three to four hours. The hardest thing was to endure almost two full baths construction waste. The reinforcing mesh is carefully cut with a grinder.

Unfortunately, I cannot demonstrate the old, pre-renovation look of the Khrushchev-era bathroom, but believe me, everything was very sad there.

I warn you that by demolishing the Khrushchev wall, you deprive the ceiling of one point of support. It is composed of the same gypsum concrete and is part of a solid “cabin”. It can also be dismantled, but I decided to simply strengthen the bathroom ceiling by supporting it with 40*50 mm timber and 10*100mm dowels - this is quite enough.

Two of the four walls in the Khrushchev-era bathroom turned out to be crooked, with a blockage of up to 3 cm, so I had to start leveling them.

After I renovated the kitchen and hallway in my Khrushchev-era apartment, I already had some plasterer skills, but in the bathroom I decided to use a different method of leveling the walls, which I really liked in the end. Holes are drilled in several rows in the wall, self-tapping screws are screwed into them, the heads of which are aligned and thus the reference points of a new, flat and strictly vertical plane are obtained (in the first photo below you can see the screws sticking out of the wall on the right). We prime the walls and wait 1.5-2 hours. Next, we take slabs of moisture-resistant plasterboard 1500 * 600 mm, which are ideally adjusted to the dimensions of our wall in Khrushchev (1520 mm) and “glued” to the wall using a special adhesive solution for drywall. Unlike plaster, the adhesive composition hardens faster (up to 20 minutes), so the slabs do not slip. The composition is applied in “buns” every 15-20 cm, on which the gypsum board slab is placed and tapped with a mallet or pressed with a rule so that the plane of the slab coincides with the plane of the previously exposed screw heads.

The joints between the slabs are sealed either with the same compound or simply with plaster. The time it takes to level the wall takes only 20 minutes, that is, exactly as long as the adhesive mixture diluted in the bucket hardens.

Just try to move 120 kilograms from its place, and then carry it out so as not to bomb half of the apartment in the Khrushchev building (already renovated, by the way). I looked at videos on YouTube like these cast iron baths they cut with grinders, drill with drills, even smash with weights of one pound! (cast iron is a brittle material and can be chipped/broken). However, my wife’s uncle stopped me in time and said that all these baths are easy to take out if you do everything correctly and technically.

While the guy was at the entrance to the house, I managed to loosen the bathtub, put it on its back and remove the legs. The thresholds were covered with thick rugs, and soft tourist rugs were laid along the path of our movement from the apartment. In such vertical position, we carefully carried the bathtub onto the landing of the Khrushchev building and then further up the stairs we took it out into the street without any problems. On this day, our apartment lost its last original element - an old Soviet cast-iron bathtub.

So, now I have nowhere to wash in the Khrushchev, so I need to act quickly and efficiently to new bath stood still after at least three or four days. The first thing to do is water supply and sewerage.

Water supply and sewerage

I had replaced the old cast-iron sewer system in the Khrushchev-era building a year earlier; now I just had to change the routing of the PVC pipes in the Khrushchev-era building and do one very labor-intensive piece of work - chiseling the wall for the sewerage system and water supply at the future location of the sink (on the right in the picture).

Grilling load-bearing walls Khrushchev buildings are a bad thing, and it’s doubly bad if you ditch it horizontally rather than vertically. But on construction forums and a number of sites, information was found that if the depth of gating does not exceed a third of the thickness of the Khrushchev wall, then this type of work is still possible, or, as builders put it more simply, you can gable up to the first reinforcement, no further.

Armed with a powerful hammer drill and a grinder with a diamond blade for concrete, I began this dirty work. For self-defense, it is imperative to have a respirator, safety glasses and gloves.

In total, it took me about 4 hours to do the gating. The depth and width of the groove is such that it can be installed in it sewer pipe diameter 32 mm. Be sure to provide a slight slope of the pipe (5 degrees) on the horizontal section to ensure water flow. We remove the sewer pipe from the groove using angular elbows (at 45 degrees) and install an adapter from a diameter of 32 mm to 50 mm (the main diameter of the sewer). This part of the sewer will already be hidden by the bathroom (blue mark on the wall), so there is no need to engage in further gating.

We assemble the sewerage following the same rule - the slope towards the riser should be about 5 degrees, so that the water does not stagnate in the pipes, but drains normally.

A little trick: in order to PVC pipes joined easily, lubricate them with liquid soap.

This is the wiring left behind by the plumbers who replaced the riser in the house.

I don’t know if it could have been done somehow more practical and simpler? I think it was possible. Two polypropylene ball valves (32 mm) and a jumper between them are not a basic option. I asked the plumbers to make such a design so that I could install the heated towel rail myself, without involving anyone. Without a jumper, during the installation of the towel, I would have to leave my entire Khrushchev-era apartment without hot water.

I drew a diagram of the future distribution of water supply and sewerage for the Khrushchev-era bathroom on a piece of paper. It is necessary, including in order to correctly calculate the number of fittings and pipes needed to purchase.

With this scheme I went to construction market, once again consulted with the seller and bought everything I needed. From him, the seller, I borrowed a special soldering iron for a week. polypropylene pipes. I had no experience working with such a tool, but I have seen how plumbers do it, and YouTube is always at hand. For training, before the main work, I took a couple of extra couplings to play around with - the soldering process is quick and not at all complicated.

What you need to know when installing a water supply system from polypropylene pipes:

There are pipes various diameters, but 16 mm (1/2 inch) pipes are most often used for water supply, and 32 mm (1 inch) for connecting to the heated towel rail.

Pipes are available separately for hot and cold water supply. Pipes for hot water have internal reinforcement, which is visible in the cut (red).

Sellers may say that the water in our pipes is not that hot, so you don’t have to worry about it and install identical pipes for cold water supply, but in this case, due to the temperature, they can and will definitely cause deformation (stretch), which can be quite unpleasant. For example, in my case, the plumbers who changed the risers during the overhaul of the Khrushchev-era building made do with one type of pipe (for cold water) and when hot water began to circulate in the system, then these pipes simply spread out and my jumper became crooked (look at the photo of the toilet above).

You can solder pipes in one person, but it’s more convenient to do it with two people: one holds the soldering iron, and the second puts fittings on it, heats it up and joins it. My wife helped me solder the pipes - it was the best March 8th for her)).

It is better to assemble small elements and components separately and then dock them to the main water supply. The picture above shows the components that will “go” to the kitchen: outlets for the kitchen faucet and outlet for washing machine.

The pipes are cut with special scissors, but if they are not there, then this can be easily done with a grinder or a hacksaw, in which case you will just need to process the edges of the pipes with sandpaper or the same grinder so that there are no nicks and the cut is smooth.

The soldering iron must be heated to operating temperature. We tightly fit the fittings that need to be connected onto it on both sides, count to 8 and then quickly remove the fittings and join them evenly. The most important thing in this matter, after the docking has taken place, is to under no circumstances adjust or move the fittings, even if they are not docked quite exactly as you would like. Such a loose connection can then leak.

It is also necessary to control that the pipe enters the fitting to a sufficient depth (determined by the inner boundary of the fitting socket).

The ideal joint is one where the rim/ring of molten polypropylene evenly goes around the pipe. Under no circumstances should you cut it!

Well, that’s basically all the main recommendations. I don’t know whether it’s correct or not, but I soldered my water supply in the Khrushchev from the kitchen to the riser in the toilet, and not vice versa. It took me the whole day to dismantle the old and install new water supply and sewerage systems in the Khrushchev-era building. Screwed into the leads on the mixers plastic stoppers(red in the photo), water is only available in the kitchen for now. We turn on the water, open the tap in the kitchen and check the system for leaks. I was lucky - not a single leak was found.

One more point regarding the connection of pipes to the mixers. For a faucet in a washbasin, the distance between the pipes does not have special significance, because the eyeliner will be done flexible hoses, but the bathroom faucet has a fixed distance between the pipes - 150 mm. Therefore, the distance between the centers of the fittings that are connected to the mixer must be exactly 150 mm. If you didn’t guess right by a couple of millimeters, then it’s okay - you can then adjust it using “ducks” (special sleeves onto which the mixer pipes are screwed).

The next stage of work is laying tiles on the floor. I decided to tile the entire floor of the Khrushchev-era building, including under the future bathroom: the overpayment is insignificant, but the effect is much more pleasant.

None preliminary alignments I didn’t do any surfaces, self-leveling floors, etc. The subfloor of the Khrushchev house was treated with Ceresit ST16 coloring primer in the evening, and the next day in the morning the wife’s uncle arrived - he is our tiler. He laid the floor under the level, and the unevenness was corrected by the thickness of the adhesive solution.

"Keramin" tiles. Manhattan collection (gray). We laid the same tiles two years earlier in the hallway and kitchen of our Khrushchev apartment building. We decided that in our small Khrushchev house everything should be done in the same style - no Gzhel and gypsy stuff, which irritated my uncle, the tiling worker, for quite a long time.

In place under the bathtub lay the tiles left over from that renovation; as you can see, they have a different tone from the new purchased tiles.

After the glue dried the next day, I hollowed out a niche in the plaster wall that will be located above the bathtub and is intended for shampoos and other small bottles. Alabaster grabbed water pipes in the groove and then plastered everything. I didn’t do this before laying the tiles because I had to adjust to the tiler’s schedule.

Installation of a bathtub and production of a screen for a bathtub

While I was waiting for the couriers with the new bathroom, I started leveling the second crooked wall of the Khrushchev building (the wall with the door). The same slabs of moisture-resistant plasterboard were used, the joints between which were covered with plaster. The corners that are visible in the frame were intended for attaching shelves to them across the entire width of the wall (for basins, etc.). During the work, the decorator suggested a slightly different method of manufacturing and attaching such a shelf (I will describe it later).

I also introduced an outlet with several degrees of protection ( special socket for bathrooms) and soldered the pipes for the heated towel rail. Later, all that remains is to screw the corner brass “American” pieces into them and hang a “towel” on them.

Finally, the new bathtub arrived. We make sure to inspect the product together with the couriers on the street, after which they bring it into the apartment and place it on its back in the bathroom.

Here we need to start talking about the eternal: what kind of bathtub should it be - acrylic, steel or cast iron? You can argue and give arguments endlessly, but I won’t do this, because this is the topic of a separate article. Personally, I liked the German steel bathtub Kaldewei Saniform Plus 140*70. Is steel noisy? Doesn't hold temperature well? Calm down dears, all this is not about her. There are steel bathtubs on sale with a wall thickness of 2 and even 1.3 mm, and this one has a record 3.5 mm. I read a bunch of negative and sometimes terrifying reviews about modern cast iron bathtubs, about the unsatisfactory quality of casting, about how the enamel is already starting to turn yellow literally after a month or two of use...Kaldewei Saniform Plus turned out to be the only bathroom about which there was no one negative feedback, but on the contrary, the owners were happy with everything. So I bought it and did not regret it.

I installed the 40-kilogram bathtub in one person, without assistants, which would have been impossible to do with a cast iron product. I installed a siphon/semi-automatic device on it, installed the legs,

and then carefully placed it on the floor. There were two levels on the sides of the bathtub (long and short), along which I installed the product strictly horizontally using adjustable legs. No lifting towards the drain!!! Absolutely all baths have a bottom slope, which ensures normal water flow. To eliminate the slightest wobble, the bathtub must be wedged: wooden wedges are driven between the wall and the side.

A noise test showed that the noise of falling water in this bathtub differs little from what it was in the old cast iron one. If you continue to look at this matter skeptically, then buy a couple of sheets of automotive sound insulation and glue them to the bottom and sides of the bathtub.

Now that the bathtub is wedged and does not wobble, you can start making the screen. To begin with, general provisions:

If you really want to do good repair, then refuse any purchased screens for the bathtub.

The screen under the bathtub should be tiled - this is both beautiful and hygienic.

Forget about last century and under no circumstances make these wretched niches for your feet. Previously, when they washed in basins or in the bathroom, housewives may have needed them, but today we live in the age of washing machines, so why bother with these useless niches.

The screen should provide emergency access to the pipes, so a small part (in the siphon area) should either be left open or covered with a piece of tile, which can be easily removed if necessary. It is not at all necessary to install inspection hatches made of steel or plastic.

And also, make the screen strictly vertical, do not experiment with any inclined surfaces. They can seriously spoil the geometry of the room.

Well, now let's start making a screen for the bathtub with our own hands. For the screen frame we need steel profiles 27*27 mm for drywall. Using videos on YouTube, I made preliminary markings under the bathtub (at the bottom left of the frame you can see pencil marks and a long line along the entire length of the bathtub). In general, the markup is done like this:

From the side of the bathtub on the wall along the level we draw a vertical line to the floor - this is the first notch on the floor.

From the first notch we retreat inward a distance equal to the width of the folded edge of the bathtub side and place a second notch.

From the second notch we retreat a distance equal to the thickness of the tile and adhesive layer (third notch) and, finally, we retreat another 12 mm (thickness of the drywall sheet) and get the fourth notch.

The fourth notch will be the edge of our steel frame for the bathtub. Using a level and a ruler, we retreat the resulting distance on the other side of the bath. Draw a straight line between the serifs. We will attach the profile using it.

The steel profile is trimmed with a grinder; to give rigidity to the structure, two profiles are folded and twisted with self-tapping screws. To save myself from the unnecessary drilling of holes in the floor of the Khrushchev building, I glued the lower profile with silicone sealant. The most important thing in this matter is to first reliably degrease the surfaces to be glued with white spirit or acetone. Next we apply silicone sealant and press the profile firmly to the floor. After about an hour and a half, it will be practically impossible to dislodge it. The top profile is glued to the side of the bath in the same way. You can insert bars into the gaps between the bathtub and the profile, again to add rigidity.

The vertical ribs near the wall already need to be mounted on dowels (here you can’t do without drilling), and the middle vertical ones - on self-tapping screws.

Before sealing the space with a sheet of drywall, we run a grounding wire into the bathtub (attached to the black eyelet on the left in the top photo).

Finally, a sheet of drywall with a cutout for access to the siphon under the bathtub takes its place. Cutout dimensions 260x400 mm. The drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. So, the manufacture of the screen for the bathtub in my Khrushchev apartment is completed.

Room cladding

Again, in the evening I primed all the walls and the screen under the bathroom with Ceresit ST19 primer-paint. When working with it, I strongly recommend that you carefully cover the bathtub with an old blanket or sheet and immediately wipe off the primer if it gets on the enamel or tiles - it will be too difficult to remove it later, after it has dried.

At the stage of preparatory work, I compiled a layout of tiles from the collections Keramin “Manhattan” and the Italian Alta Ceramica (collection “La Petra di Volta”. The apron in the kitchen was laid with Italian tiles and we are delighted with it.

The tiling of the bathroom took two and a half working days. The most difficult job was in the diagonal laying of Italian tiles, but our tiler successfully completed the task.

Ultimately, the niche was made not dark, as in the layout diagram, but light. The frame already shows a new Wassercraft faucet with a short spout, located not at the end of the bathtub, as usual, but on the side, so that it is convenient to regulate the flow of water without getting up from the bathtub.

And here is the shelf above front door, already lined. Made from two sheets of thin plasterboard (6mm) screwed to the wooden frame(boards 100x18 mm). Basins and containers with clean towels are now stored on this shelf.

The wiring for the fan and hanging cabinet was pre-installed.

Well, that’s how it happened somehow. Upon completion of the work, even the skeptical uncle of the wife melted - he really liked the result of our idea and his work. On the right under the bathroom there is space for access to communications.

Installation of hanging cabinets and more

After all the seams were taped, it was time to install the rest of the Khrushchev bathroom furniture. I liked the mirrored cabinet Russian manufacturer"Aquatone". All small rubbish (deodorants, shaving products, wife's cosmetics) could easily fit into it and there was even some space left. Visually, the cabinet practically does not eat up space in the Khrushchev-era bathroom; because of the mirror, you can’t even immediately understand that this is a cabinet at all.

I bought the fan from the Spanish manufacturer Cataco - always with a cord. That is, the power supply for the fan is combined with the light switch in the Khrushchev-era bathroom, but it is always possible to turn off the device with this same cord.

The inspection hole was closed not with a wretched hatch, but with a piece of tile to which the counter strips of furniture magnets were glued. The seam between the tiles was sealed with fugue-colored sealant. The result is a seemingly monolithic screen under the bathtub, but if something happens, the sealant will simply be cut off and the tiles will be removed with a suction cup - access to communications is open.

The heated towel rail was one of the last to be hung. In order not to damage the brass “American” ones when tightening the thread, I recommend holding some kind of thick rag between the wrench and the nut. Well, yes, the threads are packed either with tow and unipak, or with thick Teflon thread. For greater reliability, I recommend buying a few more gaskets for inch pipe(I forgot what material they are made of, but they do not press through like rubber ones).

I ran water on the towel - everything was sealed. Again, lucky.

For a long time we couldn’t decide on a hanging cabinet and washbasin for the bathroom, but at the very last moment we found a wonderful product from AM&PM Like 80 cm. After installing the bathtub and covering it with a screen, there was only 79 cm of space left to install the hanging cabinet and at first I was worried that -for this unfortunate centime, you will have to take the cabinet already. But as it turned out, 80 cm is the width of the washbasin, and it protrudes beyond the dimensions of the cabinet by 1 cm in each direction, so the width of the cabinet is 78 cm, which naturally suits us. You can say it's perfect))

The choice in favor of a hanging cabinet was because visually it is not as bulky as a floor-mounted one. Plus, again, there is always access to the siphon under the bathtub (remember about the inspection hole). The photo also shows a socket with a protective shield.

The Wassercraft faucet is from the same series as the one on the bathroom - cute, angular, just the way we like it)) The sink has a bottom valve with a click-clack system (press - you can draw water into the sink, press again - flush the water).

This is the room we ended up with at the end of the main work.

A good bathroom renovation is business card the entire apartment and the attitude of the owners towards the family and themselves. You can make a stylish renovation in the living room, but if the bathroom is unpresentable, people will get the wrong impression - the desire to appear prevails over the essence. Therefore, making a beautiful renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building is the first task.

The housing built during the reign of Khrushchev perfectly solved the problem - resettling the barracks and improving the quality of life of the population, as a result, increasing the birth rate and strengthening the institution of the family. It was planned to further improve living conditions, but it didn’t work out, and now the owners of the “khrushchubs” are trying to make them morally obsolete square meters stylish content and modernization. In Europe, in principle, they take care of any housing and extract maximum benefit from the most neglected cases without compromising quality.

In a standard Khrushchev bathroom, the weak link is the size. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the area of ​​the bathroom taking into account every centimeter.

Compact bathroom with dolphins

Dismantling plan

The main rule is to start and stop repairs within the given time frame!

In the implementation of the task, the following are important: dismantling plan, design project, finishing, deadline for each stage of repair and finishing.

Dismantling plan:

• If the bathroom is separate, think about whether it’s worth combining it. On the one hand, useful space will be added, on the other hand, only one person can use the shared bathroom; if someone needs to satisfy their “natural urges,” they will have to wait or run to the neighbors.
• Deciding to combine a bathroom and a toilet room, make sure that from a legal point of view, there will be no problems. Renovating a bathroom in Khrushevka requires not only material, but also legal preparation when combining a bathroom at your own discretion.
• Conduct a plumbing inspection: what to keep, what to throw away, what to restore.
• To be or not to replace pipes- inspect the plumbing and sewer system, old cast iron pipes definitely needs to be replaced. Their service life has long expired and if a pipe burst occurs after the repair is completed, then all your efforts will be in vain.
• Take it out of the bathroom mirrors, shelves, furniture, leave the bathtub and toilet. It is not yet known how long the repairs will take, but hygiene procedures mandatory, disconnecting and dismantling plumbing is done last.
• Inspect the doors, the solidity and completeness of the interior of the entire apartment is given by high-quality identical doors, baseboards and perfectly finished ceilings. Renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev building can become the starting point for renovating the entire apartment. If you are on the way to your goal, then the doors are worth changing.
• Decide what the floor will be. The bathroom is rarely heated, which means it is quite cool in winter. A heated floor will help in heating the bathroom - you can do it yourself comfortably and inexpensively.
• The work front is indicated.

Design project

There are ready-made design projects; with a slight adjustment to the size of a particular bathroom, they are quite acceptable. Another option is to implement the bathroom design in the context of the overall style of the house. That is color palette resonates with all rooms, the chosen style leaves its mark on the bathroom space. These are standard and good solutions to develop a bathroom design. Many people have done bathroom renovations in Khrushchev, and worthy examples can be found in open sources.

If you take a non-standard approach, think of a separate design for the bathroom, which a specialist, preferably with a specialized architectural education, will help implement. He will not only design the design component, but also give professional tips and advice in repair and finishing work. Moreover, most of them know about the qualities of construction and finishing materials not only from the words of a consultant, but have also tested them in practice. Due to the nature of the profession, a practicing architect probably knows where to buy high-quality plumbing fixtures and furniture and will offer to do so at a discount.

Construction fever

Having understood what the bathroom will be like, purchase Construction Materials, finishing materials can be purchased during the construction process.

• Pipe replacement. Bathroom renovation in Khrushchev begins with pipes. After dismantling the old water supply and drainage system, check the risers; they may also need replacement. Usually the communications system in Khrushchev's apartments is hidden in a box. Hiding communications is important, but more important is how to do it. The optimal solution is . Access can be obtained at any time. You can never be sure that all the neighbors on the upper floors not only changed communications, but also did it correctly. Therefore, leave full access to the pipes, and not in the form of a small window for one hand.

• Walls. The wall cladding needs to be knocked down. But in the case of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, it is necessary to knock it down to the brickwork. This will provide an excellent base for thoroughly plastering the walls. Leveling the walls with plasterboard sheets in a small bathroom means “stealing” a decent amount of space, on the scale of the bathroom.

• Renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building cannot be done without an inspection of the electrical network. Before you start plastering work check the electrical wiring and better replace it. Place the bathroom wire in plastic pipe to protect from moisture. Route the wiring into the grooves and attach it to the wall. metal clamps for pipes

Multi-colored cladding

• Floor. Remove the old base and clean the floor thoroughly. Before making a screed, check the level of the floor; if there is a slope, take this feature into account and strive to make the new floor as level as possible. For installation, carry out all the required work so that the last step is only the cladding.
• Having completed water supply installation and sewers, check them in action, eliminate all shortcomings and minor leaks.
• Ceiling. Better for this surface. Typically, the ceilings in Khrushchev-era buildings are low, and therefore any cladding will lower the ceiling. But there is a trick that will help you visually make it taller. Mount a special wide cornice for LED lighting around the perimeter of the bathroom. In this case, the benefits will be multiple: several lighting scenarios, the ability to set the color, the absence of a central lamp, regulation of light intensity, energy efficiency.

At all stages of construction work there are intermediate drying stages. This rule applies to screed and plaster; Gating and laying pipes also do not take place in one day. In the process of this work, you can purchase finishing materials, plumbing fixtures, furniture, decor and all the necessary little things for the bathroom.

Shower box in a small bathroom

The joys of finishing

• Put door frame, if you decide to change the door.

• The walls are finished first. It is easy to lay facing on plastered and leveled surfaces. It is not always necessary or advisable to tile a wall from floor to ceiling; a wall painted with water-based paint looks very nice, on which you can place a nice poster, photo or other things self made. Perfect for interior decoration - limitless possibilities for decoration.

• The next step is to tackle the ceiling; it is easier and more expedient to paint it in White color. Give him the opportunity to breathe and not “put pressure” on the surrounding space. Renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building makes it possible to make the interior more free.

• Final stage finishing work– floor covering. The best option is ceramic tiles. There are a great many options for colors, shapes, and sizes, but one condition is important - the roughness of the tile surface. The damp environment of the bathroom makes it dangerous glossy tiles, so choose floor tiles with a non-slip surface or provide a special rubber mat for the floor.

• Do the cleaning.

Designer shower

Bathroom renovation in Khrushchev: stages of work

Active finish

When all the finishing work has been done, all that remains is to bring in and install the heating equipment in its place,

Bathroom in a Khrushchev building. How to make a designer masterpiece on 4 m²

A legacy of the Soviet past, small apartments require considerable ingenuity from their owners when arranging the interior. Special attention the design of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building deserves, since the limited area and connection to existing communications leave almost no room for original solutions.

However, even completely small bathroom can be turned into a unique oasis of relaxation and comfort. We will talk about how to do this in our article.

Bathroom in a Khrushchev building. Peculiarities

In houses that were built in the 1950s - 1980s of the last century, they most often had a separate bathroom with a total area of ​​​​about 4 m². A bathroom, which you can only squeeze into with great difficulty, and a tiny toilet - in temporary housing, which in essence are the legendary “Khrushchev” buildings, which have long served their allotted time, and this was a luxury. Is it possible to somehow improve the situation today?

As a rule, renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building begins with the removal of the partition separating the bathroom. This allows you to increase the usable area and bring the room closer to modern standards.

It is undesirable to combine a toilet with a bathroom only if a family with small children lives in the apartment. In all other cases, you should not consider separate options, since they will not provide the required level of comfort.

Another important question– communications. In Khrushchev-era apartment buildings it is not always possible to move them, and laying additional pipes will entail extra costs. Therefore, when arranging plumbing equipment, it is better to focus on existing communication connections and become attached to them.

Bathroom design in Khrushchev. Finishing

For small rooms It is recommended to choose a modern or minimalist style, since simple and laconic forms combined with soft neutral colors will visually increase the space. But the classics, with an abundance of small decorative details, carved furniture from natural wood and a complex color palette are best left for bathrooms with a large area.

Walls

So that you don’t have to do it too often in the Khrushchev, you should avoid any materials that are “afraid” high humidity. Ventilation in houses of this type is weak and there is no hope of normalizing the microclimate of the room with its help.

For example, waterproof plaster or wallpaper is not best options for wall decoration. They are unlikely to withstand constant condensation and temperature changes, although if you install a closed shower instead of a bath, the humidity will noticeably decrease.

Still, it is better to use ceramic tiles or plastic panels. Not only are they not afraid of moisture, but they also allow you to hide the unevenness of the walls, which are familiar firsthand to those who live in “Khrushchev” buildings. Make it perfect smooth surface under plaster it will be much more difficult.

Plastic panels “hide” defects in enclosing structures most effectively. They also make special boxes for engineering communications so that the pipes do not spoil appearance premises.

However, ceramic tiles look much more attractive and will last longer. Plastic panels vulnerable to mechanical stress - even an accidental blow can leave a deep dent on them.

Some tips for choosing tiles for bathrooms in Khrushchev-era buildings:

The tile can be small (mosaic), small square or elongated, like a “hog”. Large tiles visually reduce the size of the room; it is better to avoid them.

A light, neutral tone of the walls will make the bathroom airy and create a comfortable atmosphere. Both bright, contrasting colors and “sterile” white should be avoided. It is better to focus on creamy, light gray, soft blue or beige shades.

It is undesirable to make borders that break the wall vertically, since the room will appear lower.

Small bathrooms in older buildings will seem more spacious if the walls are tiled with a smooth, shiny surface that reflects light well. Matte varieties are acceptable if the furniture has glossy facades or mirror inserts are used in wall decoration.

Floor

If you look at a photo of a bathroom in a Khrushchev building, most likely we will see a floor made of ceramic or porcelain tiles, since in this case this is the most acceptable solution.

Recently, it has been increasingly used self-leveling coating from polymer mixtures.

Its main advantages:

completely waterproof

durability, wear resistance

hygiene, environmental friendliness

the ability to create paintings with 3D effect

It is self-leveling floors that have the ability to transform, at our request, into sea waves, a waterfall or a flowering meadow.

Main disadvantage similar designs – high price.

Tip: When using porcelain stoneware or tiles, you need to choose non-slip varieties and lay the tiles diagonally. This technique creates additional perspective. A floor two shades darker than the walls visually increases the height of the room.

Ceiling

When considering the design of a bathroom in a Khrushchev building, many choose suspended ceiling. It will reliably protect against flooding from above, and if you choose a mirror variety, it will create the impression high room filled with light and air.

A ceiling made of plastic lining, or coated with waterproof acrylic paint.

Twilight should not reign, “eating up” the already cramped space, but it is too bright light also undesirable. It's better to keep it in moderation.

It is best to install spotlights and additional sconces near the mirror above the washbasin.

Choosing furniture for a small bathroom. Design, photo

Limited space forces designers to look for non-trivial solutions to meet the requirements of ergonomics and functionality. Even the smallest bathroom needs a certain set of furniture and fixtures. This:

directly bathtub or shower

wash basin

toilet (if the bathroom is combined)

cabinet or pencil case for storing bath textiles, detergents etc.

How can you fit all this into 4 m²?

What can and cannot be installed in a small bathroom

We have already said that bathrooms in houses built during Khrushchev’s era are best decorated in modern style.

Classic furniture made of natural wood is unsuitable for small, poorly ventilated rooms with high humidity. Models in the modern and minimalist style made of MDF, high-quality plastic or glass are another matter.

Advice: material such as chipboard should not be considered when renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building. After a maximum of 2 years, the purchased furniture set will have to be replaced with a new one, and the apparent cheapness of the purchase will ultimately cost a lot.

Furniture should be compact and, if possible, multifunctional. For example, a cabinet above the washbasin with mirrored doors: you can store the necessary care products and look at yourself while cosmetic procedures. It is rational to use the space under the bathroom as an additional storage section.

It is better to choose a corner pencil case. Or better yet, replace it with open glass shelves, placing them above the bathtub.

Hanging furniture is much more practical and will last longer.

Cabinets of a laconic form, without complex decor, with light glossy facades will visually enlarge the room. You need furniture with chrome fittings; other materials will quickly lose their appearance in a humid environment.

"Correct" plumbing

What should be the design of a bathtub in a Khrushchev-era building? Corner asymmetrical models made of acrylic are optimal - they are comfortable to swim in and take up little space.

A washbasin is often installed above the narrow edge of such a bathtub - this results in significant space savings.

However, it is much more practical to purchase a corner shower stall open type, it is the most compact. The doors of the device should be sliding, not hinged.

Another option that is gaining popularity: a shower stall as part of the room. In this case, when renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, the builders immediately install a special tray with a drain in the corner, using the walls as limiters. And in front they either install plastic door, or hang the curtain on a semicircular cornice. A self-made shower allows you not to get attached to standard sizes cabins and develop an individual room layout.

The toilet, just like furniture, is better to choose a wall-hung one. There are convenient corner models small size With vertical system plum. They will be the ideal solution.

Bathroom design option in Khrushchev with a washing machine

IN small apartments The lack of space is felt not only in the bathroom, but also in the kitchen or hallway. Therefore, a washing machine is a necessary attribute of modern life; they try to install it where its presence is most logical. That is, in the bathroom.

Location options:

Under the sink. In this case, a narrow front-loading machine is required.

In the corner next to the shower stall, if the entrance to the room is not located on the end wall.

In a special niche formed by connecting part of the corridor to the bathroom.

Installing a washing machine under the sink is considered the most rational. The room also benefits from an aesthetic point of view. If desired, the machine can be hidden behind a decorative door so as not to disturb the overall style of the bathroom.

With proper planning and selection of the necessary furnishings, the bathroom in houses built under Khrushchev can become very cozy and stylish. And most importantly, no less comfortable than spacious rooms.

As proof, we offer a selection of the most striking and impressive photos bathroom in the Khrushchev building.

Plumbing modern form and an original combination of two types of tiles: mosaic and “hog”. It would seem nothing complicated, but this bathroom cannot be called boring or uncomfortable.

Bathroom for connoisseurs Japanese style. Exclusive design, the photo of which is given above, is based on a contrasting combination of retro-style furnishings and an ultra-modern shower stall. The washbasin clearly resembles a traditional Japanese bathing barrel - an ofuro.

Unusual renovation of a bathroom in a Khrushchev building, photo of a wall with a washbasin. Tiles with a “natural stone” texture create a feeling of being in a natural environment, just like a veneered MDF cabinet. Calm colors and simple shapes promote relaxation. It’s nice to relax in such a bathroom after a busy day.

Photo of a bathroom in a Khrushchev building in a modern style. A contrasting shower wall helps organize the space without appearing too bright, thanks to the overall neutral palette.

A corner shower cabin saved space in a small bathroom, allowing you to place a washbasin with a countertop and convenient shelves for bath accessories.

Unusual bathroom design in Khrushchev, photo. Retro style never goes out of fashion and this interior is another proof of that. The diagonal pattern of tiles on the floor visually expands the space, making the room seem larger than it actually is.

Stylish bathroom in Khrushchev, design, photo. The “marine” theme is relevant for rooms of any size - it creates a romantic mood and promotes relaxation. In this case, the furniture was very well chosen - a corner pencil case, a hanging cabinet under the sink, a mirror cabinet. It seems that you are in the cabin of a magical ship that is taking you towards adventure...

If standard bath replace with shower cabin, released usable space. Before us is a very successful bathroom design in a Khrushchev building with a washing machine - household appliance located in the corner and does not interfere with free movement.

Another interesting option bathroom in Khrushchev, photo. Corner plumbing - the shower and toilet are so compact that even a modest-sized room begins to seem spacious. And due to the dark end wall additional depth of space is created.

This solution is generally not typical for a bathroom, however, it is worth taking a closer look at it. Isn't it true, the design, the photo of which is presented above, slightly resembles a living room, with a traditional “wall”? But nothing prevents us from uniting modular system and plumbing. How many additional places storage will appear in this case. Compact, functional, stylish.

Shall we take it into service?

Repairs are different from repairs, and repairs in a Khrushchev building should not be budgetary anyway. And the result should be pleasant to the eye and to the touch. I came across just such a repair option on a well-known website. Well, as you already understand, I could not bypass this post and not duplicate it on this site with my comments. Looking ahead, I will say that this repair is not an indicator, but it can definitely be taken as a basis; it has its pros and cons, but more on them below.

A little background on the renovation: the bathroom was chosen as the first room for renovation, because no matter what you say, throughout the entire renovation the bathroom will be needed and you can’t go anywhere without it... And another reason was the announcement of the sale of a large and new corner bathtub 150*150 for only 4000 rubles. It was decided to purchase this miracle and expand the bathroom to fit the size of the bathtub. Perhaps this is not the best solution, because the size of the bathroom is not large and you could get by with a small bathtub or even a shower stall, but the Khrushchev-era apartment is already small, and with such a bathroom you can spend another hour like a master...

Another important point is that this repair was not done by a professional and for the first time, so we can conditionally say that such a repair is available to each of you, my dear reader!

Also pay attention to the pipes. Before starting repairs, it is imperative to replace it with plastic, or better yet, with metal-plastic, if this has not already been done. Pipes are the backbone of the bathroom and they must be made and done well.

Not a lot, not a little, was spent on the entire renovation - 60 thousand rubles.

So let's go!

This is what the bathroom looked like before the renovation

The plan of what was taken as a basis is the main diagram of the entire repair

Now let's move on to the process itself, step by step and with pictures. Let's start with the basics, i.e. floor - replacement of screed. She was like this:

Of course, such a floor is no good and we need good foundation- fill in:

The base of the floor is ready, let's move on to the base of the walls. Making a frame for the shelves:

The quality of my work is checked with an open eye, or rather four, but how can we do without it?

Everything has been checked and you can move on to another wall - glue the tiles.

After the bathtub is installed on the frame. We continue to work with the floor and install a heat cable - we make a warm floor.

Filling the cable

All the basics are ready, now let's move on to the design. And we start as usual from the floor. It was decided to make pebbles for the floor.

After the work, the inspection came again and approved the work with its seal. By the way, we bought stones for the floor in Yekateinburg, by weight. It took 50 kg. I glued it with Bergauf Ceramik Pro glue.

I install it directly above the washing machine. Saving space is everything, especially with a bathroom like this! All plumbing, including pipes and cords from the washing machine, are hidden in the frame.

Let's finish off the rest of the little things called baseboards for the bathroom:

Everything below the ceiling is almost ready, so we need to make the ceiling. The ceiling will be made of ordinary plastic panels:

We leave access to the power supply for the main and electrodiode lights in the ceiling; to do this, leave a hole and cover it with plastic:

We also install curtain rods. Since the bathroom is semicircular, a flexible cornice is needed, which was purchased and installed:

Now we are finishing the shelves, which in fact caused much more problems than expected:

And the last, if I may say so, touch is the cabinet, where it is used as a panel furniture board, treated with 6 layers of stain and 4 layers of varnish:

And this is the result of the entire repair - everyone was happy and yes - not a single cat was harmed :)

Some notes on actual use:

1. In the first days, I didn’t really like the floor, it was ugly, although warm. I also thought about how it would be cleaned. In fact, I can say this: we were happy with this floor. The cable is always on and the stones are always warm. Weekly cleaning with a vacuum cleaner and a couple of times a month with a rag does not cause any problems. No floor mats are needed. No fungi or mold were found after a year - don’t forget about ventilation, it pulls everything out.
2. The water supply, sewerage outlet and socket are located behind the washing machine.
3. Wall-hung toilet, .
4. Prices: bath - 4000 rubles, installation - 5000 rubles, toilet - 1250 rubles, sink - 2000 rubles, tiles - 18000 rubles, ceiling tiles - 200 rubles. I don't remember the rest...
5. Footage of the room: it was 1.6 x 1.6, it was 2.3 x 1.6.

Constructive criticism:

1. The bathroom takes up a lot of space. A regular-shaped bathtub might have been better suited, or even a shower stall.
2. Installation for shelves removes 20 cm from the wall - not very effective.
3. The floor turned out to be an acquired taste, perhaps it needs to be filled with self-leveling flooring - it should turn out beautifully.
4. There is no heated towel rail - an unpleasant detail.
5. The faucet is milked over the head of one of the places in the bathroom - this is not very convenient, although this has its advantages - when you bathe, the tap is at hand and you can even water from it... The bathroom place is not eaten up, the faucet can be easily bent.

For dessert: how to train a cat to go to the toilet?

Put away cat litter box and instead insert a liner into the toilet. The hole in the liner must be gradually enlarged until the liner is no longer needed: