Planting and caring for paniculata hydrangea. Hydrangea paniculata: subtleties of cultivation and care. Lighting for paniculate hydrangea
Read also
For me, only roses were always flowers, but then the idea came that roses needed beautiful companions that were beautiful, but did not compete with roses in beauty, on the contrary, they emphasized them, and then paniculate hydrangeas appeared in my garden.
Paniculate hydrangeas are very unpretentious, I think the most important thing is proper planting, watering, fertilizing, well, let's talk about everything in more detail.
Landingpaniculata hydrangea
I always plant paniculate hydrangeas in a sunny place. First I prepare the soil, I take 3-year rotted manure, 3-year compost, black peat and garden soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be well permeable, so I add more nutritious soil.
I prepare a hole for planting material with the calculation of planting material or a little more, fill it with ready-made soil, pour it well with water and leave it to soak in moisture.
Preparing hydrangea for planting
The most important thing is to water the plant before planting; to do this, I take it out of the container, untangle the roots as far as possible, cut them off a little and put the seedlings in a bucket of water for 5-6 hours, then for another 5 hours (even overnight) in zircon or NV-101. After this treatment, the plant will quickly begin to grow.
Now the seedlings can be planted. I take out the soil that I tucked into the hole or spread it along the sides of the hole, put the plant there, slightly deepening it by 8-10 cm (depending on the size of the plant), be sure to straighten the roots and sprinkle it with wet soil to the surface, compact it and spill it again. After planting, I cut the branches into 2-3 buds.
If you are planting a small plant, for example a 2-year-old seedling, then after mini-pruning to 1 bud, you can shade it with a plastic bottle from the sun.
Watering paniculate hydrangea
Panicle hydrangeas love watering, rainy summers are heaven on earth for them, so if you come to the dacha on weekends, water your favorites very well, I always water them on Saturday evening and again on Sunday morning, so they have enough until the next weekend.
To shed well means pour 3-4 buckets under adult plants, a bucket each under 3-year-old bushes, and 5 liters under cuttings (but it is better to leave them mulched).
I like to mulch hydrangeas because the soil is protected from sunlight and the plant thrives in such conditions. For mulch I use weeds weeded from my garden, black peat, and compost.
Feeding paniculate hydrangea
Fertilizing is needed for lush flowering of hydrangeas, but it is important to remember that fertilizing should only be done on well-drained soil!
If it rains and you decide to feed the plants, make sure with your finger that the soil is sufficiently moistened, and only then start feeding.
First feeding of paniculate hydrangea: spring
I use horse orgavit, add soluble kemira, zircon or HB-101, humate. I dilute all the ingredients (organavit and humate separately), and only then add them all according to the instructions into a 10 liter bucket of water. I pour 1 liter for adult bushes, half a liter for small bushes, and 1 glass (200 ml) for cuttings.
Second feeding of paniculate hydrangea: before flowering in spring
I use a herbal infusion (nettle, dandelions, honeydew) and add uniflora bud and boric acid.
For 10 l. a bucket of water - half a liter of herbal infusion, 1 cap of uniflora bud, and boric acid according to the instructions, but the dose should also be reduced.
Third feeding of paniculate hydrangea: autumn (September)
I spill potassium humate. During the season I spray with zircon, HB-101, bio-cocktail (healthy garden, ecoberine, HB-101).
After the rain, I spill more biological product Siyanie 1 and immediately mulch the soil (1 tablespoon per bucket of 10 liters of water). I use this feeding 2 times a month, regardless of the three main ones, but you can add Radiance 1 to the 2nd and 3rd feedings.
Pruning paniculate hydrangea
You can prune hydrangeas in both autumn and spring. In the fall, I trim off the faded caps so that the shoots do not break during snowfall in winter. The main pruning should be in the spring, usually I shorten the shoots from the fork by 3-4 buds, I cut off very small branches completely, when pruning you can form a bush as you like.
Caring for paniculata hydrangea
Care in the spring consists of pruning, loosening the soil, mulching with peat (I always use black), fertilizing when the soil warms up, this happens in May. Summer care means, of course, watering, fertilizing, weeding, and mulching. In the fall, I weed and leave the grass under the bushes, because the roots of the hydrangeas slightly protrude from the ground.
There is no need to cover the hydrangeas, just cover the cuttings with peat.
Propagation of paniculate hydrangeas
I start breeding in our strip (Nizhny Novgorod) on June 15th. I take semi-lignified shoots for cuttings, make the lower cut at 45 degrees, then leave 2 internodes and leave 1 cm above the upper internode and make a straight cut.
I dip the cuttings in root (powder) or keep them in zircon or humate for 12 hours, then plant them in a 0.5 liter plastic glass, put the glass in a plastic bag and tie it, put the glass in a shady place. Since condensation will accumulate in the bag, I must ventilate the bag every 3 days, otherwise the cutting will rot.
I use very light soil (black peat, which is well weathered with the addition of river sand). After two weeks, the cuttings take root, then you can open the bag slightly, but you still can’t put it in the sun. In winter, such a cutting can be buried directly in a glass in the soil and sprinkled with compost or soil. Well-rooted cuttings overwinter wonderfully, but just do not dig them into the place where the soil is flooded in the spring.
Replanting paniculate hydrangea
I replant in spring and autumn, it is very similar to planting. I dig up the plant, cut off the roots by 10–15 cm, cut off the tops by 3–4 buds, keep the plant in water for 1 day, then in HB-101 for a day, and only then plant it in a prepared hole, I straighten the roots of an adult plant well, I make the soil very nutritious, but I don’t add mineral fertilizers, I just add 1 cup of bone meal and mix it with the soil, after filling the soil I spill it and compact it. For a transplanted plant, I still sprinkle the roots with soil in the fall.
Lyudmila Baranova
Planting paniculata hydrangea will decorate problem areas of the garden. Caring for crops certainly requires certain skills and effort. However, you just have to look at the photo of this beauty to be convinced that the game is worth the candle!
Hydrangea paniculata is a genus of shrubs and trees from the Saxifraga family. Originally from the Far East. The height of the paniculata hydrangea bush reaches 3 meters (some varieties up to 10 m). Shoots are upright, spreading. From the second year of growing season, the stems become woody. The leaves are opposite, large, finely toothed.
Hydrangea pleases gardeners with a long flowering period Hydrangea paniculata differs from other species in the shape of its inflorescence. Many small graceful flowers are collected in pyramidal panicles. Spike-shaped inflorescences reach up to 30 cm in length and 20 cm in width. It blooms very profusely, forming a luxurious crown, from June to October. The first flowering occurs in the 3-4th year of growth. The color of the flowers is chameleon: by autumn the white color will be replaced by pink.
An adult paniculata hydrangea bush is completely winter-hardy. It grows on acidic and polluted soils, in shaded areas, and is very moisture-loving. Long-lived - grows up to 60 years. Hydrangea paniculata is an excellent honey plant and will decorate any, even the most specific area of the garden.
Popular varieties of hydrangea paniculata
- Grandiflora(“Grandiflora”) is a common popular variety. A fast-growing bush with large inflorescences. During the flowering period, it changes color four times: when the inflorescences bloom - cream; full bloom - white, turning to pink; in autumn – red-green. Blooms slightly later than other varieties.
Planting hydrangeas is very easy Hydrangea paniculata is planted in early spring and autumn. The planting hole should be wide, up to 70 cm in diameter, to evenly distribute the roots. The recess is filled with a portion of mineral or organic fertilizers and moistened. When planting a hydrangea seedling, the root collar should not be buried. The planting hole, filled with soil and compacted, needs to be watered generously.
Advice. In autumn, planting paniculata hydrangea can only be done in the southern regions. In all others - only in the spring.
The distance between planted bushes is at least one and a half meters. In group plantings of hydrangeas, to achieve rapid closure of the crowns, seedlings can be planted at a shorter distance from each other. As they grow, such plantings are thinned out.
Care for hydrangea paniculata
Hydrangea paniculata is a rather demanding and capricious plant. Proper care will help you achieve bright, abundant flowering on a powerful, healthy bush.
Watering. Abundant and regular (during drought at least twice a week). After watering, the soil must be loosened, avoiding cracking of the top layer. The solution to the problem will be mulching with pine needles or peat.
Mulching hydrangeas Feeding. Hydrangea is very responsive to fertilization. At the beginning of growth, it will be useful to add a diluted infusion of nettle. Mineral fertilizing is applied carefully, without excess, but regularly (every 10 days). It is preferable to use water-soluble fertilizers and apply them along with watering. From organic matter, slurry and diluted bird droppings are excellent.
Important! The interval for fertilizing hydrangea should not exceed 15 days. Otherwise, flowering will be sparse and faded.
Trimming. Every year, hydrangea bushes need to be pruned short. This way they will retain their attractiveness for a long time and bloom profusely.
In autumn, all remaining inflorescences, old and weak shoots, and branches growing inside the bush are cut off from the bush. It is recommended to leave 10-12 strong shoots in winter.
Pruning hydrangea Spring pruning is carried out before the buds open. The shoots of an adult bush are cut to 2-3 buds, young ones - to 3-5. This pruning will allow the bush to gain strength over the summer and meet the winter fully armed. Flowering becomes more luxuriant.
Important! Pruning is required for paniculata hydrangea. Otherwise, the bush develops poorly and does not bloom.
Old bushes need to be rejuvenated from time to time. To do this, the shoots are cut under the stump. The bush is completely restored in two years. Standard methods of growing paniculata hydrangea require more gentle pruning.
Shelter. Young seedlings require winter cover with spruce branches or other materials. In regions with harsh climates, mature bushes also need to be covered.
Do not neglect covering the bushes for the winter A photo of paniculata hydrangea in the garden conveys all its beauty and inspires to overcome difficulties when growing.
Hydrangea propagation
Hydrangea paniculata reproduces in the following ways:
- Seeds.
- By cuttings.
- By layering.
It is immediately worth noting that propagating hydrangea by seeds is not justified. The seeds are very small, they produce unfriendly shoots, the quality is lost, and a flowering bush can only be obtained after four years.
Hydrangea seeds The most common method of propagation is cuttings. Cuttings are taken from one-year-old mature shoots. Typically, ripening occurs in June, when hydrangea produces buds.
Important! Cuttings cut in spring and autumn do not root well.
Rules for cutting cuttings:
- the cutting must have at least three pairs of buds;
- the lower section under the kidney at a distance of 2 cm;
- the upper cut above the bud at a distance of 5 cm (if the shoot is small, the upper cut can be omitted);
- the lower leaves are removed, leaving 1-2 leaves at the top;
- the remaining sheets are cut in half.
The chopped shoots need to be soaked in water for several days. Hydrangea is very capricious when propagating, so to achieve the desired result, it is recommended to treat the cuttings with a growth stimulator.
Cutting hydrangea cuttings The cuttings are rooted in containers with a sand-peat mixture (1:2). The planting material is buried 2/3. The soil mixture is covered with a layer of sand on top so that the bottom of the cutting does not reach the peat mixture. The seedlings are covered with jars and placed in the shade.
It is very important to maintain constant humidity in the containers, otherwise the cuttings will not take root. Spraying and watering should be done every day. The first roots will appear after three weeks. Now you can remove the jars and continue to water the seedlings regularly.
For the winter, containers should be placed in a cool but frost-free place. During this period, you need to monitor the condition of the plant and prevent the appearance of fungus.
Using the cutting method you will get a young plant by next year Seedlings are planted in open ground in August next year. By this time, the cuttings will already have young shoots. If flower buds appear during this period, they need to be cut off so that the plant can gain strength. The young seedling needs to be covered for the winter, and only after the first flowering the bush is considered winter-hardy.
Obtaining layering of paniculata hydrangea is quite simple. One-year-old mature shoots are bent into a dug ditch 20-25 cm deep. Shallow cuts are first made on the stem at the intended location of root germination. In the ditch, the layer is pinned or fixed with a stone. The upper part of the shoot must be above the ground, always in a vertical position. The ditch is filled with earth and moistened.
Hydrangea is easily propagated by layering Already next spring, the layering will produce young shoots. There is no need to rush to separate them from the mother bush. This can be done in a year, when the young animals have gained enough strength. All varietal properties of the mother bush are preserved.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea in the garden is affected by many diseases and pests. The most dangerous diseases include:
The fight against diseases must be carried out in a timely manner with special preparations and not to forget about preventive measures.
Snails can cause significant damage to hydrangea leaves. Pests of hydrangea paniculata:
- snails - feed on leaves;
- aphids and spider mites - located on the underside of the leaf, they feed on the sap of the plant;
- pennies and bedbugs are larger sucking pests;
- leaf beetle, leaf roller, weevil - gnaw and twist leaves;
- nematodes - live in root tissues.
Important! During the flowering of paniculata hydrangea, spraying with chemicals is not recommended.
Weak plants cannot resist diseases. Growing zoned varieties, following agricultural practices, preventive spring spraying with Bordeaux mixture, removing dried branches - these are the measures that will help avoid the scourge of most diseases.
Weevil Plants damaged by nematodes and viral infections must be removed.
Hydrangea paniculata is a very capricious beauty. Growing it involves many difficulties. But when the first huge inflorescences appear, all the difficulties are forgotten, and you just want to enjoy this incredible miracle of nature.
Blooming hydrangea paniculata: video
Planting hydrangeas - some useful tips
Some gardeners begin growing plants with a long process - sowing seeds. I warn you right away - the seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground in two years. If your patience allows you to wait so long, you can test your abilities as a breeder, but I did it simpler - I purchased a plant ready for planting.
When can a hydrangea be placed in a permanent location? I will please you - it is possible to plant with the arrival of spring warmth, as well as in the fall. Be sure to choose a sunny area, without drafts. Try to prevent large trees or shrubs from growing nearby, otherwise over time the plants will begin to fight for nutrients from the soil and moisture.
Prepare a large hole for your beauty; it should significantly exceed the diameter of the root system. Make a mixture for planting in advance:
Humus;
some compost;
peat;
sand;
leaf soil.
Add the nutrient mixture to the soil that was removed from the hole. The next stage is planting the seedling. Be sure to check its roots - there should be no dry or rotting shoots; if there are, remove them with a sharp knife and treat them with crushed charcoal. Place the plant comfortably in the hole, straightening the roots. Sprinkle with soil, water generously and lay a thick layer of mulch, which will protect the plant from overheating and the soil from drying out.
Caring for hydrangea planted in the garden
If you are in the mood for grueling and complex hydrangea care, then I hasten to please you - nothing like that, no special feats will be required from you. The main thing is to follow a few rules, which I will now introduce. The most important requirement is to carry out proper watering. Hydrangea loves moisture, so during the warm season you will have to arm yourself with a hose or bucket and water it.
One large plant will need up to 4 buckets of water (you used peat as mulch, water a little less frequently - it retains moisture well). In order for moisture to penetrate into the soil better, be sure to loosen it and renew the layer of mulch.
Regardless of the variety, hydrangea will be able to show itself in all its beauty after you start applying fertilizers. If this stage of care is missed, then only the first flowering will be gorgeous; each subsequent one may differ in smaller flowers. I usually please my beauty twice a season - once before flowering, the second time a week or two after flowering.
As a top dressing for the first application, I take urea (a teaspoon of fertilizer per bucket of water). Keep in mind that an adult healthy hydrangea bush will need at least 3 buckets of this solution. I carry out the second feeding with complex fertilizers. If I see that the development of the plant has slowed down a little, I feed it with mullein infusion several times a season.
After fertilizing, if conditions are favorable, hydrangea can produce huge inflorescences, which the fragile shoots will have great difficulty withstanding. To help the plant and avoid damaged branches, you need to use supports to which you tie the bush.
Pruning and preparation for winter - necessary processes
At the age of three to four years, paniculata hydrangea will require some more effort on your part. This is a pruning process, without which it is unlikely that it will be possible to form a compact, beautiful bush with abundant flowering. I’ll tell you a little trick - only last year’s runs of paniculate hydrangea are cut off, and by a third of the length. After such manipulations, you will have wonderful cuttings in your hands, from which you can grow young bushes and increase the number of delightful flowers near your house.
I’ll briefly tell you how to root hydrangea cuttings - don’t throw away such wealth? Cut them into small pieces (each of them should have at least two nodes). Make the top cut straight, the bottom cut at a slight angle. Plant the cuttings in a mixture of sand and peat, build a greenhouse and do not forget about moistening the soil mixture. Roots will appear quickly, in just a few weeks. All you have to do is transplant them into a prepared bed, water them on time and remove weeds.
Pruning is usually done in the spring, but take your time - let the severe frosts go away first. At the same time as shortening the shoots, remove damaged or dry branches - the buds are already clearly visible and you can easily determine what needs to be pruned.
Now I’ll tell you how to prepare your beauty for winter. You should start preparing for frost and snowfall immediately after flowering. Remove dry buds immediately, otherwise a sudden snowfall will break the fragile branches - in addition, the considerable weight of snow will be added to the heaviness of the flowers.
The underground part of the hydrangea needs to be prepared for the winter. Hill up high and apply a thick layer of mulch. I usually cover the soil around my favorite with spruce branches, since paniculate hydrangea is quite frost-resistant, such a “coat” is enough for the roots to survive the most severe frosts without any problems.
Young hydrangea bushes are tender, I advise you to prepare them for winter more reliably. There are no special tricks here - just cover the plants entirely with soil (at a height of 25-30 cm it is quite possible).
If your winters are too cold, then take the time to prepare adult bushes for frost. Bend the plants to the ground (reinforce them with steel clamps), then cover with old roofing felt. The hydrangea bush is very large, so just carefully tie it with twine and wrap it with lutrasil. If this does not seem enough to you, then build a wire frame, make a spacious mesh fence and fill the entire space with dry leaves. Now your pet is ready for even the most severe frosts.
As you can see, panicle hydrangea is no more difficult to care for than any other plant in your garden. You won’t be able to make mistakes in caring for her, even if you try really hard. Be sure to look at the photo, it will serve as an excellent incentive to grow such splendor in your garden. Help your friends cope with growing hydrangeas by sharing the issue with them on social networks. One more request - subscribe to the channel, because in the future I will try to introduce interesting and personally proven methods of growing plants. I say goodbye to you, but not for long, you won’t have time to get bored. All the best!
Source; website "All about floriculture"
Rightfully loved by flower growers, no one can remain indifferent when, from mid-summer, it blooms its lush inflorescences of pink, blue or white shades. In addition, compared to other species, paniculata hydrangea tolerates cold climates well.
Description of hydrangea paniculata
The plant reaches a height of two meters. On the tubular shoots grow oblong green leaves, covered with soft hair below. Paniculata hydrangea blooms with large flowers 15 cm in diameter and 25-30 cm long in whitish, cream, pink, red-purple shades. Flowering lasts from mid-July to the end of October.
Planting and care
Selecting a location
It is best to plant hydrangea in such a way that it is in partial shade during the midday hours. The plant will be uncomfortable under bright sunlight. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms later, the flowering is not the most magnificent. Ideally, the plant will be illuminated by the sun only in the morning or evening hours.
Soil for the plant
Hydrangea paniculata prefers to grow on fertilized loamy soil with high acidity. It is important to consider that the plant does not tolerate stagnant water. Before planting, drainage should be placed in the hole: a layer of small stones or expanded clay. If the soil is clayey, it should be mixed with sand, peat and soil from coniferous crops should be added.
Landing dates
Hydrangea paniculata is planted in spring and autumn. Each term has its own advantages and disadvantages.
- In areas with a warm climate, planting is possible in the fall, in September. The seedlings have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Such plants begin to bloom the following season.
- In the middle zone and colder regions, spring planting is preferable.
- In the spring, hydrangea is planted after the last frost, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently.
- Seedlings purchased in special containers (with a closed root system) can be planted in the garden in any summer month. However, you should choose hydrangeas with intact bark and buds, from half a meter to a meter in height, with 2-3 living shoots. Living roots should be visible from the earthen clod.
Landing rules
- For planting, dig a hole measuring 30 - 50 cm in each dimension.
- The soil removed during excavation is mixed with sand, peat, mineral or organic fertilizers.
- If you plan to plant several plants, the distance between plantings is set to 1 m.
- Roots that are too long are shortened when planting.
- If the roots have dried out, they are soaked for a day. It would be a good idea to add a root formation stimulator to the water.
- It is also useful to dip the roots in a clay mash when planting.
- A mound of prepared soil is poured into the hole, a seedling is placed on it, covered with the remaining soil, and compacted to prevent voids between the soil and the roots.
- The root collar should be at ground level; it should not be buried.
- After planting, the bush is watered abundantly.
- Then mulch with a layer (5 cm) of peat, or humus.
- When planting in spring, annual shoots are cut into 3-4 buds.
- Before planting, you can pour liquid hydrogel into the hole. During hot weather, it will help retain moisture in the soil.
Watering
Hydrangea paniculata is a moisture-loving plant; it is watered 2 times a week at the rate of about 3 buckets per plant. However, it must be taken into account that mulching and rain reduce the watering rate.
The water should be free of chlorine, it is good to use rainwater. It can be prepared in wide containers, such as bathtubs or barrels.
You need to water carefully, do not allow drops to get on the leaves and flowers. This harms the decorativeness of plants.
Top dressing
In the first year after planting, the plant does not need to be fed.
Subsequently, the bushes are fed three times a year.
- The first time - after the first shoots appear. Use complex mineral fertilizer.
- The second time is when the plant begins to form buds, around mid-June. Fertilizing is carried out with potassium sulphide and superphosphate in a ratio of 7:4. Dissolve 100 g of the mixture in a bucket of water and water the bush.
- At the end of August, fertilize for the third time with mullein infusion. The infusion is prepared as follows: manure (1 part) is poured with water (3 parts) and left for a week. Then, for feeding, the resulting concentrate is diluted with water 1:10.
Loosening
The soil must be loosened periodically, at least 3 times per season, so that a dense crust does not appear on its surface, which prevents the retention of moisture in the soil. The earth is loosened to a depth of about 7 cm within a radius of 60 cm around the center of the bush. During loosening, weeding is also carried out.
Trimming
To maintain the decorative appearance of the bush, starting from 4-5 years of age, hydrangea should be pruned.
Pruning serves the following purposes:
- Achieving lush flowering.
- Obtaining large beautiful inflorescences.
- Formation of hydrangea in the form of an attractive tree.
- Rejuvenation of old bushes.
Pruning is carried out in the spring after the snow melts and after the buds swell, but before they bloom.
Formative pruning technology:
- Thin branches directed into the crown are removed. They are cut into rings.
- Large shoots are trimmed. 2-3 buds are left on each. Sections are made transversely above the kidney.
- Weak and frost-damaged branches are cut out. Large frozen branches are cut back to a healthy area.
Anti-aging pruning:
- On old bushes, 6-10 strong skeletal branches are left, the rest are completely cut out. This procedure is carried out annually.
- Another way: cut the bush completely to the stump. In this case, a rejuvenated ornamental plant is obtained in the second year.
Autumn pruning is not advisable for hydrangeas; after it, the plants tolerate frosts less well. During this period, faded inflorescences are removed so that the branches do not break under the snow.
Propagation of hydrangea paniculata
Hydrangea can be propagated by seeds, but this is a long procedure and not very suitable for an amateur gardener. It is recommended to propagate the shrub by cuttings and layering.
Hydrangea from cuttings
Cuttings can be taken before buds open or in mid-summer with leaves.
In the first case:
- The cuttings are cut obliquely so that each has at least 2 buds.
- Then they are planted in peat or sand at a slope of 60 degrees, deepening the lower bud by 3 cm.
- Water well, cover with spunbond and place in a greenhouse.
- Rooted plants are planted in open ground next spring.
In the second case:
- The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and the upper ones are shortened by half.
- The cuttings are placed in a solution of foundationazolone for half an hour and planted in a container in peat with added sand and placed in the shade.
- The seedling is covered with a jar or the top of a plastic bottle cut in half.
- The seedling needs to be watered twice a week for 4 weeks.
- After this period, the cuttings should take root; the cover from the containers can be gradually removed.
- For wintering, containers are sent to a room with low positive temperatures.
- Plants are planted in a permanent location in August of next year.
Hydrangea from cuttings
Hydrangea can also be propagated by layering.
- In the spring, before the buds appear, the soil around the plant is loosened, deepened by 15 cm and the lowest shoot of the bush is buried.
- The shoot can be fixed in the soil with a stone or strong wire.
- The above-ground part of the shoot is attached to a support and watered.
- In August, new shoots form on the layering; when they reach a length of 15-20 cm, they are spudded. Hilling is repeated every 7 - 10 days until the resulting mounds are 20-25 cm in height.
- You can separate young plants from the mother plant and plant them in a permanent place after a year.
Problems of growing hydrangea paniculata
With proper care, hydrangea, as a rule, does not get sick or get affected. However, the following problems may arise with it:
Hydrangea paniculata (lat. Hydrangea paniculata) is a species of the genus Hydrangea of the Hydrangeaceae family, widespread in nature in Japan, China and the south of Sakhalin. This attractive and fast-growing crop is widely used in landscape design.
Planting and caring for paniculata hydrangea
- Bloom: from mid-June to October from four to five years of age.
- Landing: in the spring before the buds swell or during leaf fall.
- Lighting: bright light or partial shade.
- The soil: fertile, neutral, without any admixture of lime or other alkalis, clay soils or red soil are preferred.
- Watering: abundant and regular: the soil in the tree trunk circle should be moist all the time.
- Feeding: Fertilizers are applied 4 times per season: in early spring - organic matter with a high nitrogen content, during budding and in mid-summer - full mineral fertilizer, and in autumn - potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
- Trimming: Sanitary and formative pruning, and, if necessary, rejuvenating pruning is carried out at the end of March.
- Reproduction: most often by layering and cuttings.
- Pests: aphids, spider mites, root-knot nematodes, snails.
- Diseases: white and gray rot, powdery mildew, downy mildew, septoria, chlorosis, ring spot virus.
Read more about growing paniculata hydrangea below.
Hydrangea paniculata - description
Hydrangea paniculata is a shrub or tree up to 10 m high with shallow roots, the distribution area of which significantly exceeds the projection of the crown. The leaves of Hydrangea paniculata are ovoid or elliptical, up to 12 cm long. Honey-bearing inflorescences are densely hairy, wide-pyramidal panicles up to 25 cm long and consist of large sterile flowers with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm, the greenish-white petals of which gradually turn pink, and small fertile white flowers with early falling petals. Hydrangea paniculata blooms for the first time at the age of 4-5 years. The fruit is a capsule that cracks at the top when ripe and contains numerous small but extremely viable seeds.
Planting paniculate hydrangea in open ground
When to plant paniculata hydrangea
The best planting material is four to five year old seedlings that take root well and can bloom within the year of planting. Hydrangea paniculata is planted in the spring, before the sap begins to flow, or during leaf fall. Seedlings planted in the spring will almost certainly bloom soon, but if planting is carried out in the fall, it is necessary to insulate the tree trunk for the winter.
Hydrangea paniculata can grow in partial shade, but in bright sun its flowering will be longer and more lush. It is very important that the plant is protected from strong cold winds.
Hydrangea paniculata prefers soil that is fertile, neutral, without any traces of lime or other alkaline compounds, due to which it may, at best, bloom poorly, and at worst, simply die. Keep in mind that the plant's roots extend far from the trunk, so do not add chalk, dolomite flour or ash to the soil within a diameter of 5-6 m from the intended planting site. Do not plant bulbous flowers in this space that require annual digging of the soil - tulips, gladioli, hyacinths. Brown peat, pine soil or sawdust can be added to acidic soil to neutralize it. Hydrangea paniculata grows poorly in sandy soil.
How to plant paniculata hydrangea
The landing site is prepared in advance. The pit for paniculata hydrangea should be spacious: depending on the size of the seedling, from 50x50 to 80x80 cm with a depth of 40 to 60 cm. The distance between two hydrangeas or between the hydrangea and other plants should be 2.5-3 m. Fill the hole with 2- 3 buckets of water so that the moisture saturates the ground well. The next day, fill the hole almost to the top with a mixture of fertile soil, sand, peat and humus (2:1:2:1), adding 25 g of urea and potassium sulfate and 65 g of superphosphate to it and mixing thoroughly. Allow the soil to settle and settle.
The roots of seedlings are slightly pruned before planting, and in tree-like forms of paniculata hydrangea, annual shoots are also shortened, leaving no more than 3-5 buds on them. Only large-leaved hydrangea seedlings are not pruned, since the flower buds of this plant are located at the ends of the shoots.
Lower the root system of the seedling into the hole, straighten its roots and dig the plant so that the root collar is slightly above the surface of the area. Water the seedling well, and when the water is absorbed and the soil settles a little, the neck will be where it belongs - at the level of the surface of the site. Mulch the tree trunk of the seedling with pine needles, leaf humus or acidic peat and at first shade the plant from the bright sun.
Caring for Hydrangea paniculata
Planting paniculata hydrangea and caring for it is not labor-intensive. Garden hydrangea paniculata can grow near highways and in other unfavorable places, but if you want to see it in its best shape, do not neglect to perform simple plant care measures.
Hydrangea paniculata, like other species of the genus, is extremely moisture-loving, so the soil in its trunk circle should be slightly moist all the time. Do not allow the soil to dry out on hot days. Water the plant once a week, pouring at least 3 buckets of water under each adult bush. It is good to add potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation from time to time. In order to retain moisture in the soil as long as possible, the tree trunk circle is regularly mulched with leaves or sawdust.
Hydrangea paniculata is fed four times per season. In early spring, at the very beginning of sap flow, organic matter is added to the soil - a solution of mullein or bird droppings, for example. The next feeding is carried out during the budding period: a solution of 35 g of potassium sulfate, 35 g of superphosphate and 25 g of urea in 10 liters of water is added to the tree trunk circle - this amount is enough to fertilize 1 m². In mid-summer, hydrangea is fertilized with a solution of 25-35 g of granular complex mineral fertilizer in a bucket of water. Consumption – 2-3 buckets per adult bush. The fourth feeding is applied when preparing the plant for winter: in this case, use a special fertilizer for hydrangeas that does not contain nitrogen.
To form an ideal bush or tree, proper pruning of hydrangea is very important, which is usually done at the end of March. When forming a bush, leave from 5 to 10 developed shoots and shorten them to 3-5 buds. The remaining shoots are cut to the base. Old hydrangea is subjected to anti-aging pruning, shortening all shoots to 6-7 cm from the surface of the earth: next year the old plant will produce young shoots.
Hydrangea paniculata, like any other plant, can suffer from diseases or pests. Most often, powdery mildew and aphids cause trouble for her. To get rid of powdery mildew, you need to treat the plant several times every 10-12 days with one percent Bordeaux mixture or a solution of 20-25 g of Fundazol in 10 liters of water. Ordinary garlic will help to cope with aphids: 250 g of crushed cloves are poured into a bucket of water, left for two days, after which 50 g of grated laundry soap are added to the infusion, dissolved, stirring, and the bush is treated, trying to ensure that the solution wets not only the top, but also underside of hydrangea leaves. Treatments with garlic infusion should be carried out once a week until the aphids disappear. If garlic does not cope with the task, you will have to resort to the help of acaricidal drugs - Akarin, Aktar or Actellik, for example.
With the onset of cold weather, paniculata hydrangea in Siberia and the Urals needs shelter. Sometimes you have to cover hydrangeas in the middle zone if weather forecasters predict a frosty and snowless winter. The root zone is covered with a layer of rotted manure, peat or dry leaves at least 20 cm thick. As soon as snow falls, throw a snowdrift under a bush or tree.
Propagation of hydrangea paniculata
Most often, paniculata hydrangea is propagated by cuttings and layering. The remaining cuttings with 4-5 buds after spring pruning are placed for two days in a weak Kornevin solution, after which they are planted on a school bed, burying the lower cut in loose acidic soil for two buds. Cuttings of paniculata hydrangea must be protected from bright sun, and the soil in the garden bed should be regularly moistened, not allowing it to dry out. As soon as young leaves appear on the cuttings, the shading is gradually removed. For the winter, the cuttings must be covered with spruce branches. Next summer, it is better to remove the first flower stalks so that the plant can devote all its energy to growing the root system. Cuttings are planted in a permanent place at the age of 4-5 years.
It is very easy to propagate paniculate hydrangea by layering: in the spring, a low-growing shoot of a young plant is bent to the ground, pinned to it and the place of fixation is covered with fertile soil or peat. The cuttings are watered throughout the season, covered with spruce branches for the winter, and next spring they are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a school bed for growing.
Varieties of paniculata hydrangea
We are sometimes asked to list the “names of paniculate hydrangeas”, the most popular in cultivation and at the same time the least capricious to care for, and are also asked to recommend varieties of paniculate hydrangea for the Moscow region. Actually, any variety of this species is winter-hardy enough for moderately frosty winters, but in conditions of abnormal cold, they all need shelter for the root zone.
We offer you the best varieties of paniculata hydrangea.
Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora (large-flowered)
A shrub that over time takes the form of a tree up to 3 m high. It is distinguished by later flowering than other varieties. Collected in wide pyramidal inflorescences up to 30 cm long, large sterile flowers of this variety are creamy when blooming, pure white in full bloom, and then pinkish - becoming greenish-red closer to autumn. The lifespan of plants of this variety is about 30 years;
Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla Fraze
The plant is up to 150 cm high and has a crown of the same diameter. The inflorescences are large, similar to lilac clusters. The flowers are creamy at first, then they turn pink, and towards the end of flowering they become dark red. One bush can have snow-white and bright crimson flowers at the same time. Plants of this variety can withstand frosts down to -29 ºC;
Hydrangea paniculata Phantom
A plant up to 2 m high with a crown diameter of the same size. The inflorescences of this variety are large, dense, round-pyramidal. The flowers are light cream in color when opening, but become pinkish over time;
Hydrangea paniculata Pink Diamond
The inflorescences of this variety, up to 30 cm long, consist of creamy white flowers that gradually acquire a dark pink, almost red color;
Hydrangea paniculata Limelight
A plant extremely popular among designers because of its strong shoots that can easily withstand heavy greenish inflorescences, which turn white in bright sun and pink towards the end of flowering. The leaves of this variety are green in spring and summer and turn purple in autumn;
Hydrangea paniculata Pink Lady
A fan-shaped shrub up to 2 m high with a spreading crown, straight brown shoots that acquire a reddish tint in autumn, and white inflorescences up to 30 cm long. Over time, a light blush appears on the fragrant white flowers, then the flowers gradually become soft pink;
Hydrangea paniculata Magical Candle
A plant with a spreading crown and large pyramidal inflorescences of light cream and green fragrant flowers, which turn pink in summer and crimson in autumn;
Hydrangea paniculata Vims Red
A plant with inflorescences up to 35 cm long, conical in shape, emitting a honey aroma. During the season, the flowers turn from white to pink, and at the end of flowering - deep red;
Hydrangea paniculata Diamond Rouge
Compact upright shrub with inflorescences up to 40 cm long, the flowers of which are initially white and then acquire a rich crimson-red color;
Hydrangea paniculata Sunday Fries
Dense compact bush with red-brown shoots, pubescent leaves along the veins and white flowers, which become lilac-pink by the end of summer;
Hydrangea paniculata Pinky Winky
A variety that was bred more than 10 years ago, but still has not lost its popularity. This is a small tree or bush with a wide-rounded crown and shoots that grow up to 30 cm annually. Powerful stems bear paniculate inflorescences of white flowers, which change color to pink-purple during the season;
Hydrangea paniculata Melba Fraze (Fraiz Melba)
A new variety, which is a tall bush with dark burgundy shoots with a brown tint and dense pyramidal inflorescences 45-55 cm long, consisting of milky white flowers, gradually acquiring at first a soft pink, and towards the end of flowering a rich wine-red hue.
In addition to those described, the following varieties of hydrangea paniculata are grown in culture: Silver Dollar, Little Lime, Kyushu, Bobo, Tardiva, Presox, Unique, Floribunda, Matilda, Darts Little Dot, Brussels Lace and others.
Hydrangea paniculata in landscape design
Hydrangea paniculata, due to its loose conical inflorescences, brings airiness to the landscape. Its cultivation next to mock orange, lilac and spirea is justified, since its lush inflorescences replace the withered flowers of these shrubs. Effective combinations of hydrangea paniculata with clipped plantings of boxwood, spirea or cotoneaster: this combination can enliven any corner of your garden. And climbing varieties of paniculata hydrangea will help create decorative verticals on the site, for which hydrangea is planted near the walls of buildings or large trees, away from drafts. Such plantings attract the eye not only during the flowering period, but also in the fall, when the hydrangea leaves acquire a variegated color.
Rating 4.03 (31 votes)After this article they usually read