Planting eggplants in open ground and features of growing the plant. A pleasant neighborhood or what crops can be planted next to Is it possible to plant eggplants next to carrots

Planting eggplants in open ground and features of growing the plant.  A pleasant neighborhood or what crops can be planted next to Is it possible to plant eggplants next to carrots
Planting eggplants in open ground and features of growing the plant. A pleasant neighborhood or what crops can be planted next to Is it possible to plant eggplants next to carrots

Neighborhood of vegetable crops on garden beds- an important topic for reflection during the planting period. Which of them can be safely planted next to each other, and which should be placed in far corners personal plot? In this article we will look at how to plant peppers next to eggplants.

Growing eggplants in infographics

Look key points growing eggplants in the country in infographics.

Comparison of growing conditions for peppers and eggplants

The table below provides a comparison of growing conditions for peppers and eggplants.

Pepper Eggplant
Perennial subshrub. It is grown as an annual vegetable crop. The leaves are simple, attached to the petioles singly or in rosettes, with a wide color spectrum - from bright green to olive-black. Large flowers located in the leaf axil singly or in inflorescences, white or with green tints. Multi-colored inclusions are possible. The plant is perennial. Cultivated as an annual vegetable crop. Large rough leaves of alternate arrangement. Some varieties have purple leaf shades. Purple flowers located singly or in inflorescences.
Fruits: hollow false berries with a large content of seeds. Shape, color and size vary depending on the variety. Fruit popular varieties have a mass of 80–120 g and a wall thickness of 5–7 mm. Fruits: cylindrical, pear-shaped or round shape with a matte or glossy finish. The size is capable of growing up to 70 cm and having a diameter of 20 cm with a weight of up to 1 kg. Full ripening coarsens the eggplant and negatively affects its taste. The crop is harvested at earlier stages.
Moisture-loving. Comfortable temperature mode – 18-25 o C Warm and moisture-loving. Develops well at a temperature of 25–28 o C
Soil: structural, light, with a good content of organic matter. Soil: neutral or slightly acidic with organic matter.
Ripening time: 4 months Ripening time: 4 months

The table below shows that peppers and eggplants can be planted in adjacent beds or in the same greenhouse. The growth, development and fruiting of these plants occur under similar conditions.

Preparing seeds for planting eggplant and pepper

Calibration. The seeds are immersed in salted water. After 5 minutes, the seeds remaining on the surface are removed - they are hollow or diseased. The remaining seeds are dried and prepared for further use.

Selection of bad seeds using salted water. Place the seeds in salted water; if the seeds remain on the surface after 4-7 minutes, remove them. They are empty or damaged.

Disinfection. A procedure for protecting pepper and eggplant seeds from fungi, this helps fight bacteria and harmful microbes.

  • Dry method. The seeds are covered with pesticides in powder form.
  • Semi-dry method. The seeds are wetted and then treated with pesticides.
  • Wet method. Treatment of seeds with an aqueous solution baking soda or potassium permanganate (1% solution) or hydrogen peroxide (10% solution).
  • Folk method. The seeds are subjected to contrasting water treatment - 15–20 minutes of exposure to alternately cold and hot water.

Stratification (interlayering). Stratification is a method used before planting to improve seed germination. The process of simulating the influence of natural winter conditions on plant seeds. Keeping seeds at low positive temperatures on a moist substrate (peat, sand, cotton wool).

Using a damp cotton pad for stratification

Hardening. Washing the seeds ice water or keeping at low positive temperatures. The procedure stimulates resistance to cold in heat-loving plants.

Soaking and heating. Prepares seeds for mass germination, stimulates the appearance of female flowers, planting material filled with nutrients.

After pre-sowing treatment the seeds can be safely used to grow seedlings.

It is not necessary to use all of the above methods of pre-sowing seed treatment. When using purchased materials, you should carefully study the manufacturer's recommendations.

Soil for seedlings

A mixture of soil, peat or humus and baking powder (sand) in equal proportions is a universal recipe that is suitable for growing seedlings of peppers and eggplants. It is recommended to use lowland peat - it is less acidic and contains more nutrients. High-moor peat is mixed with lime or ash (to reduce acidity) and enriched with phosphates.

The use of sand gives the mixture looseness and carries a drainage load. Without this it won't happen correct formation skeletal part of plants. Soil acidity is another significant point that can affect future harvest. IN acidic soils is added dolomite flour in the proportion of 0.015 kg per kilogram of soil. Fertilizers containing magnesium and lime improve the quality of future seedlings. In such soil she will receive required quantity nutrients and microelements, and the growing time will be reduced to 15 days.

Land disinfection is a procedure that must be carried out to destroy bacteria, fungal spores, and insect larvae. This can be done in different ways:

  • freezing. The soil is placed in frost for up to 7 days. Then it is heated in a warm room to activate the life processes of weed seeds, spores and bacteria. Repeated freezing destroys pests;
  • heat treatment. The moistened soil is placed in the oven and calcined at a temperature of 90 degrees for 30 minutes. Or they use the “water bath” method - the earth in a fabric bag is placed on a wire rack that covers a bucket of boiling water for an hour and a half;
  • disinfection by using special means- fungicides or insecticides. Ordinary potassium permanganate also copes with this task. Five crystals of the substance are dissolved in a bucket of water (10 l). 2 weeks before planting, the soil is spilled in a proportion of 40 ml/m2.

The listed methods have both advantages and disadvantages. It is especially important to comply with deadlines - land disinfection is carried out in advance.

Picking eggplant and pepper seedlings

This operation has been causing ongoing debate among avid gardeners for many decades - whether it is necessary to replant the seedlings, exposing them to stress and weakening. To dive or not is not an idle and pressing question.

Picking - transplanting plants at the stage of appearance of 2 or 3 true leaves into larger pots and new land. Diving improves the quality of seedlings and increases their resistance to stress. The advantages of picking seedlings are obvious:

  • the formation of strong roots is stimulated, lateral roots receive an impulse to develop;
  • when planting seeds in one box, picking protects the seedlings from intertwining roots and facilitates the transfer of plants into the ground;
  • allows you to select strong and healthy plants, on early stage cull substandard seedlings;
  • prevents diseases, gives a chance to protect plants from diseases that arise as a result of planting in contaminated soil;
  • delays early development of seedlings, prevents overgrowth.

Pumpkins and plants with a taproot system do not tolerate picking well.

You can pick seedlings in two ways, presented in the table below.

Transfer Transshipment
Containers prepared for transplantation are filled with soil to 3/4 of the internal volume. Two hours before the dive, the seedlings are watered generously warm water, which makes it easier to remove plants. The seedlings are removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, then the roots are carefully freed from the soil. To stimulate the growth of lateral roots, pinching the main root is used. The plant is transferred to the prepared hole, sprinkled with soil, and the soil is lightly compacted with your fingers. The plant is not watered for 2 days preceding the picking. Turn the pot over and remove the seedling with a lump of earth on the roots; the dry earth should slide out easily. The seedlings are placed in a new container without freeing the roots; the resulting voids are filled with fresh soil. Transplanting in this way does not injure the roots, and the plant comfortably moves into a larger pot, tolerates picking more easily and does not slow down development

Advice: because of rod system Root picking of eggplants should be done exclusively by transshipment. Plant at the same depth as before transplanting.

After completion of the work, the seedlings should be watered abundantly and placed in a shaded place for 48 hours.

Planting eggplant and pepper seedlings in the ground

  • 10 days before disembarkation, in daytime, the temperature in the room is gradually lowered to 18 o C, and in the last 3 days - around the clock. The number of waterings is reduced. For hardening, open sunny places on loggias or terraces.
  • No later than 7 days before transferring the plants, treat the seedlings with Bordeaux mixture (to prevent fungal infections) and add minerals.
  • To make it easier to remove seedlings from pots, water the plant generously 48 hours before transplanting.
  • The height of the seedlings is 15–20 cm. Eggplant has 6 (or more) true leaves, pepper has up to 10 and established flower buds. Plant at the depth of the first true leaf.

Tip #2: Pre-water the beds generously. On the day of planting, do not water the plants so as not to interfere with the access of oxygen to the roots of the seedlings. Start watering after a day.

Measures to combat diseases and pests of pepper and eggplant

The table below shows the main diseases and pests of peppers and eggplants at their summer cottage.

Pest/disease name

Symptoms of the disease Treatment options
Blackleg Softening, thinning and rotting of the basal stalk. The disease contributes to thickening of plantings, high humidity and low (with changes) temperature. Loosen the soil, reduce watering, use a powder of stove ash or crushed charcoal. Use chemicals
Withering Loss of leaves due to fungal spore disease Diseased plants are removed and burned. The soil is loosened and watering is reduced. Next season, other fruit and vegetable crops will be planted in this place.
Slugs The snail feeds on leaves and fruits. Damaged areas begin to rot Loosen the soil, pollinate the area with ground pepper or dry mustard (10 g/m2)
Spider mite Feeds on plant cell sap and damages bottom part sheet Spraying plants with a water mixture of "Karbofos". Folk recipe: chop onion (garlic) and dandelion leaves and leave in a bucket of water (10 l). Add liquid soap. Use for spraying
Aphid Damages leaves, flowers, stems. Destroys plant juices Aqueous solution of daily infusion wood ash(0.2:10 l) s liquid soap or use chemicals

Pests of eggplants and peppers: aphids (left), slug (center), spider mite(on right)

Mixed cultivation

Rational placement on one bed different cultures is relevant for small gardens. The advantages of this method are undeniable when the right approach allow you to increase the yield even when using smaller planting areas.

Crop rotation improves, the soil becomes healthier and does not become overworked. Plants have a beneficial effect on each other, the taste of fruits and their nutritional value. The risk of plant damage by diseases and pests is reduced. The main rule is to take into account the compatibility of plants and natural complementarity. Practitioners assure that when mixed plantings from 1 sq. m. up to 20 kg of vegetables are collected. The landing compatibility table is shown in the figure below.

Compatibility table for plants in a summer cottage

Peppers and eggplants can coexist well in the same bed. These plants are similar in terms of growing and watering conditions, soil requirements and thermal conditions, growing season and fruiting time.

Expert opinion on growing peppers and eggplants together

“Eggplants and peppers grow happily next to each other. However, peppers can be cross-pollinated by their eggplant neighbor. In this case, he appears purple tint on the sides - there's nothing wrong with that. I recommend planting flowers with them: marigolds, petunias and nasturtiums, the smell of which repels pests.”

Veronica Sazhina,
specialist in mixed cultivation of fruit and vegetable crops.

Answers to pressing questions from gardeners

Question #1: Why grow seedlings?

Growing seedlings provides a number of benefits. Early harvests, which are formed due to the fact that an already grown plant is planted in the ground. Rational exploitation of the land - the bed is used to produce early, fast-growing vegetables, and then seedlings of later crops are placed on it. In addition, the seedlings are stronger and more viable. It is better resistant to weeds, diseases and pests.

Question No. 2: At what distance should I plant seedlings of peppers and eggplants?

This depends on the characteristics of the particular variety. You should carefully read the seed manufacturer's recommendations. Standard size: 0.6 m between rows and 0.45 m between plants.

Question #3: How to water correctly? Does yield depend on irrigation?

Pepper and eggplant moisture-loving plants. Fruiting directly depends on the amount of moisture they require. Lack of water causes leaves and buds to fall off and woody stems to become coarser. Watering rate - 12 l/sq.m. once a week with warm water. At high temperatures The frequency of watering increases to twice a week.

Question No. 4: Loosening the soil - is it necessary to do it and how many times during the summer?

It is necessary to loosen the soil. During the season, this operation is performed 5-6 times. You should also hill up the plants and add soil mixture under the roots.

Question #5: How to prepare your own seeds of your favorite eggplant variety?

To do this, you should keep no more than 3 fruits on the plant, remove the rest and pick off the flowers, the natural forces of the eggplant will be directed to the development of seed fruits. After ripening, cut and keep in a warm place for one week. Then place the pulp (pulp) together with the seeds in glass jar and leave to ferment for 5 days, then rinse and dry. Drying is carried out at a temperature of 28–30 o C for 12–15 days. The resulting seeds are stored in dry paper packaging for up to 5 years.

Joint planting of vegetable crops allows you to save space in the garden, but it is important to consider portability various plants each other. Growing and caring for eggplants in a greenhouse with cucumbers, peppers and other vegetables is possible if favorable conditions are created for everyone.

Norms for the neighborhood of vegetable crops

Compliance with crop rotation and plant compatibility ensures the success of cultivation in closed ground. You should take into account which types of eggplants are allowed to be planted after, and what is permissible to place in the neighboring bed. Limited space and time frames (the greenhouse is constantly occupied, several crops are harvested per season) will not allow the land to rest from the previous crop.

Even if the building is used for growing one variety, it is advisable to sow green manure in between, because they suppress harmful microflora. Between the rows of eggplants you can plant plants with short period growing season. When the main variety grows its above-ground part and creates shade, it is time to remove the early-ripening species from the beds.

It is not advisable to place vegetables from the same family after each other, or next to each other. They have common diseases and pests, so if one plant is damaged, all members of this family can suffer. It is advisable to plant eggplants with crops that prefer similar microclimates and care conditions.

It is also important to take into account that there are no varieties nearby that release substances into the air and soil that are intolerable to the vegetable, inhibit growth and development, or affect the taste of the fruit.

What can you plant eggplants with and what not?

For successful cultivation Seedlings can be transplanted into a greenhouse after creating optimal conditions. For joint cultivation, it is necessary to select crops with similar needs in the conditions environment. Eggplants need:

  • air temperature +20-28 °C;
  • the soil should warm up to +15-18 °C, so they can be planted with most heat-loving crops;
  • optimal humidity air – up to 70%;
  • recommended frequency of watering – once a week;
  • The main condition for growing is to plant in an open area. sun rays place.

It is important to take into account the height of future plants, because eggplants are light-loving and do not tolerate shading. It is necessary that the air in the greenhouse does not become over-humidified. It is advisable to ventilate frequently, but creating a draft is unacceptable.

If such conditions are not suitable for growing any plants, there is no need to plant them in the same greenhouse. Some crops can negatively affect the taste of future fruits or depress the vegetable; it is also undesirable to place them nearby.

What you can and cannot plant next to eggplants:

The nuances of joint cultivation

Unlike planting vegetables nearby in open ground in greenhouse conditions, observing proximity is much more important. Limited area and closed space create a common microclimate for all plants. Despite this, it is permissible to plant antagonists in the same greenhouse after following a number of tricks.

Light-loving eggplants can be placed on the south side, and other crops can be placed on the north. Usage low-growing varieties will help not to shade them. The space can be zoned with film or polycarbonate partitions, which is especially important for creating the necessary air humidity. Eggplants do not tolerate waterlogging.

Opponents can be planted separated by a line of other plants. When growing vegetables of the same family, you need to be especially careful to monitor for signs of diseases and pests.

Compliance with basic agrotechnical measures and preventive measures will protect the plantings from damage.

With cucumbers

According to crop rotation standards, crops get along well in the neighborhood only in open ground. But it is not advisable to plant cucumbers and eggplants together in a greenhouse, because the former prefer high humidity (in dry air the inflorescences fall off) and a temperature of +18-20 °C. Creating optimal conditions for one vegetable will create an unfavorable microclimate for another.

What both cultures have in common are:

  • need for ventilation;
  • intolerance to drafts;
  • loose and fertilized soil;
  • watering at the root.

If there is a need to plant cucumbers together, you will need a high, spacious greenhouse with open access. sunlight. Eggplants are self-pollinating crops, so it is advisable to choose cucumber varieties with the same characteristics.

Row spacing should be about 70 cm; nightshades need space. Cucumbers can be planted on north side greenhouses or closer to the center so as not to shade light-loving vegetables. It is practiced to separate plantings with a film screen, which will help create the required humidity.

With tomatoes

Eggplants and tomatoes can be planted in the same greenhouse, taking into account a number of differences in the preferences of vegetables. In hot weather, tomatoes should be shaded from direct sunlight; the crop is drought-loving, which cannot be said about eggplants. Carrying out will help against common diseases and pests. preventive measures. At the first signs of infection, affected specimens should be removed from the beds and burned so that the disease does not spread throughout the building.

Separating them with film will help to grow eggplants in the same greenhouse as tomatoes. It is permissible to plant cucumbers between them, not forgetting to leave wide row spacing.

Optimal temperature for tomatoes +22-24 °C, so they can be placed closer to the entrance or on the north side. Tomatoes require a draft for pollination.

You can get a harvest in a greenhouse only by creating favorable conditions for plants. Eggplants are demanding on a certain microclimate. Together with them, it is allowed to plant crops that can bear fruit under specific indicators. Zoning, proper distribution of vegetables, wide row spacing will help to obtain high yield of all varieties.

Among the crops most beloved by gardeners, it is worth noting eggplants. These representatives of the nightshade family can be used in preparing a wide variety of dishes, and their taste will not leave the most fastidious gourmet indifferent. However, their cultivation can cause certain problems, especially due to their heat-loving nature.

And making a greenhouse for only one type of plant, especially in conditions small area, too wasteful. Therefore another question arises. What to use to plant eggplants in a greenhouse? What crops will be here? best neighbors? This point requires careful consideration.

To begin with, you should pay attention to those plants whose proximity is favorable for eggplants (or neutral). But even here we need to take into account the demands of the blue ones. These include the need for sunlight, protection from wind and, at the same time, high soil humidity along with low air humidity. Therefore, neighbors of eggplants should not be too tall plants that will shade them. In addition, they should be similar in their watering requirements and vulnerabilities to pests.

So, what can you plant blue ones with? The most common options compatible with eggplants are peppers and cucumbers. Each of these cultures has its own reasons and characteristics. Corn is also acceptable, but there will be some difficulties with its cultivation.

Eggplants and peppers

Yes, and you should choose whether to plant sweet or bitter peppers. Only one species can be planted in one greenhouse. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cross-pollination.

In terms of preparing seedlings for the greenhouse, approximately the same procedures are followed for eggplants and peppers (for detailed information on each, you can refer to the training videos):

  • Seed selection and disinfection;
  • Growing and hardening of seedlings;
  • Site preparation and installation of the greenhouse;
  • Planting seedlings in open ground
  • Spraying seedlings with Bordeaux mixture.

You can plant eggplants and peppers no earlier than two to three weeks after the end of frost. By this time the earth should warm up to at least 18oC. With more low temperatures At best, seedlings will result in a worse harvest, and at worst, they may even die.

The soil in the greenhouse should be light and fertile. Eggplants and peppers are very capricious crops and require the most favorable conditions. The air in the greenhouse must be kept dry and the soil moist. To achieve these mutually exclusive conditions, during watering and a couple of hours after it, the greenhouse must remain open on both sides (with strong wind- with one). Ventilation will bring the humidity balance to the desired level.

But it’s also not worth planting these crops too close, due to the difference in growth. Peppers grow to large sizes, and then they begin to cast shadows on the eggplants. To avoid this, it is advisable to plant the next optimal neighboring crop between them in the greenhouse - cucumbers.

Eggplants and cucumbers

Like eggplants, cucumbers are heat-loving plants that grow very readily in greenhouse conditions. But this is not their only advantage when growing together.

The next point is the similarity in requirements with eggplants and peppers. If these crops grow nearby, the gardener will not have to change the temperature and volume of watering for each, or select different preparations for treatment. Moreover, when growing eggplants and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, they have approximately the same fruiting time, which also facilitates the harvesting procedure.

But there are two features that necessitate regular ventilation of the greenhouse. The fact is that cucumbers, after watering, greatly increase air humidity. This has a negative effect on eggplant flowers and fruits. The first ones wither and fall off, the second ones begin to rot. Therefore, once again, monitor the air humidity and maintain it at a low level.

Eggplant and corn

We can say that this is the least interfering crop for eggplants. Corn, although it belongs to tall plants, when planted at a distance of 70-80cm, absolutely does not interfere with access to sunlight. At the same time, it can protect from the wind (although this is more often used when growing in open ground).

On the other hand, if the corn itself does not interfere with the eggplants, then they create certain obstacles for it. First of all, this concerns pollination, which will have to be done manually. The same applies to the need for additional spraying against pests that can move from eggplant.

Unacceptable neighbor crops

In terms of unacceptable combinations, most gardeners agree on one thing - you should never co-grow any nightshades with eggplants. The reason for this is, first of all, the volumetric requirements for the soil. In half the time required to achieve full growth, the soil will simply dry out. Only very strong and numerous feedings will help here, and even then only weakly.

This can be especially noticeable when growing eggplant and tomato together. More precisely, when trying to do so. The first thing that causes problems here is different requirements to the volume of watering. Eggplants require a lot more water, that is, either they will dry out or the tomatoes will rot.

And the second point that does not speak in favor of this neighborhood. Tomatoes are taller than eggplants and will obscure them light-loving plants Sun. There is no way to expect a positive outcome in this situation.

Features of joint cultivation

When growing eggplants and cucumbers or peppers together, you need to follow some rules and features that differ from individual cultivation. For example, cucumbers do not like drafts, while eggplants require regular ventilation. What to do in such a situation? The solution is this: it is better to plant cucumbers on the side farthest from the entrance, so that the eggplants cover them from the wind. At the same time, the former should not obscure the latter.

In terms of humidity requirements for joint cultivation, everything is the same - high soil humidity and low air humidity. This arrangement suits all three of these cultures. You can even use the same fertilizer. And this does not depend on the type of soil chosen. The composition of the feeding includes:

  • Ash - 2 full glasses;
  • Potassium sulfate – 1 tablespoon;
  • Superphosphate – 1 tablespoon;
  • Urea – 1 teaspoon.

In the event that crops are planted in sandy soil, it is better to first “feed” it with compost, peat, as well as loamy or clay soil with sawdust. The volume of each feed for an average greenhouse varies from 1 to 3 buckets.

If desired, you can plant all three crops in one greenhouse. This will create additional complications and will require careful care from the gardener. But, on the other hand, in a small area such a solution may turn out to be quite rational. In this situation, eggplants are planted at the entrance to the greenhouse or hotbed, cucumbers are planted closer to the middle, and peppers are planted at the far wall.

» Vegetable garden

When planning garden beds, it is important to consider the compatibility of vegetable crops. Gardeners have more than once had to deal with the problem of low yields in the absence of any prerequisites for this. And the reason may be trivial - an inconvenient neighborhood, so you need to know what can be planted with and what not.

This article reveals all the secrets of arranging a vegetable garden, because the growth and development of both crops depends on which plant is planted in close proximity, and what is important is their fruiting.

When landing, taking into account compatibility, it is quite possible increase productivity by 15-20%. You should be especially careful when choosing a neighbor when placing several types of vegetables in one garden bed or greenhouse.

Approximately the same growing conditions make it easier to care for shoots:

  • lighting intensity;
  • watering mode;
  • preparing the soil for planting;
  • introduction of fertilizing.

If you plant bad neighbors - this is fraught with the following consequences:

  • attracting insects that create many problems for young shoots;
  • fungal infection as a result of waterlogging;
  • Negative influence waste products, as a result of which the neighbor develops poorly or stops growing.

Experienced gardeners use invaluable knowledge in practice, annually observing the interaction of nearby plants.

To make planning easier, they draw up a plan for the garden, dividing it into beds for vegetables and berry crops before planting. Thus, the rules of crop rotation and the laws of compatibility in open ground are taken into account.

What can you plant next to potatoes?

One of the most popular vegetables, which is included in the list main products for winter preparations . Before it is planted, its predecessors are taken into account.

The best are considered:

  • carrot;
  • green manure;
  • cucumber;
  • legumes;
  • pepper;
  • cabbage;
  • beet.

Not worth it use the same area annually, get good harvest It won't work out with this kind of planning. Low rates of fruiting of potatoes are also noted if they are placed on a former tomato bed.

In relation to its neighbors, the plant shows more tolerance than mutually beneficial consolidation. The most best compatibility noted only with beans.

The vegetable does not like to be friends with cucumbers, onion sets, tomatoes and cabbage. And you definitely shouldn’t place potatoes nearby: peas, beets and celery. The root crop gets along well with other plants.

Neighbors for tomatoes

A favorable place for growing tomatoes is considered to be areas where the following crops were previously grown:

  • cauliflower;
  • turnip;
  • cucumber;
  • greenery;
  • carrot;
  • beet.

Among worst predecessors: potatoes, peas and zucchini. According to the rules of crop rotation, vegetables are planted in the same place after 3-4 years, so use a former tomato bed for tomato seedlings do not do it.


  • beans;
  • radish;
  • corn;
  • radish;
  • cabbage;
  • pepper;
  • onions and other green vegetables.

There is no negative impact on tomatoes from neighboring beds with parsnips, strawberries, kohlrabi, lettuce, and spinach.

Planting peppers with other vegetables

When planting pepper, it is worth considering its identity varietal feature. Sweet, Bulgarian and bitter varieties are placed separately from each other to prevent cross-pollination. The most suitable predecessors are:

  • legumes;
  • cabbage (early varieties);
  • greenery;
  • cucumbers;
  • wheat (winter);
  • perennial herbs.

Not worth it choose areas after potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes and physalis. When growing other plants in the planned bed, there are no strict restrictions on pepper.

Arranging a bed of peppers Can close to the following crops:

  • carrots;
  • basil
  • onions;
  • coriander.

If you plant marigolds, oregano, and nasturtium for decorative purposes or as a preventative against pests, then the pepper will simply smell fragrant from such companions. And you should avoid the proximity to fennel, beans and kohlrabi.

cucumbers

The soil environment is more suitable for growing greens after cabbage and tomatoes. And the predecessors from the pumpkin family are the most undesirable.

Has a positive effect on the yield of cucumbers dill, so it is taken not only as a companion, but also sown interspersed.

The following have a beneficial effect on the development of crunches: onions, beans, peas, garlic, spinach. Calendula placed between the rows will create reliable protection from insects feeding on young cucumber leaves.


Recommended from proximity to potatoes, radishes and tomatoes refuse, plants have a negative effect on each other.

Cabbage

Cabbage planting is planned after peas, beans, cucumbers. Do not spoil the soil environment: peppers, carrots and herbs. A fodder beet and other representatives of cruciferous crops are considered bad predecessors.

It’s easy to choose a cabbage companion for your immediate surroundings fit many plants:

  • beet;
  • beans;
  • sage;
  • celery;
  • dill;
  • salad.

It is allowed to plant flowers and herbs: oregano, chamomile, nasturtium, mint, etc. Won't fit strawberries and tomatoes as companions.

Good neighbors for carrots in the garden

When choosing a place for sowing carrots, preference is given to the following predecessors:

  • cucumbers;
  • tomatoes;
  • potato;
  • cabbage;
  • leek;
  • greenery;
  • legumes

Experienced gardeners notice that after zucchini, celery, parsnips and parsley it turns out bad harvest carrots, the root crop develops poorly, as if it lacks nutrients (although fertilizing is introduced according to schedule).

The carrot bed should be planned in close proximity from such crops:

  • garlic;
  • tomato;
  • radish;
  • peas.

Sage, marigolds and scorzonera can be planted between rows to repel pests.

Unfavorable neighborhood celebrated with beets, beans and dill. Carrots get along with other plants without any problems.

Zucchini

Everyone's favorite zucchini bear fruit well on the grounds after legumes and cabbage of early varieties. Do not spoil the structure of the soil and the environment: greens, onions, garlic.

And such predecessors as carrots, tomatoes and cabbage late date maturation is considered most unsuccessful.

Zucchini (squash) can be safely planted next to the following plants:

  • beans;
  • corn;
  • peas;
  • beans.

Pumpkin

Disembarkation rules pumpkins in many ways similar to zucchini, they have the same recommended predecessors. However, the neighborhood is slightly expanded; additional tomatoes, radishes and sunflowers can be planted.

The pumpkin crop only tolerates potatoes. Gets along well with other plants.

Beet

Beet sowing can be done on former beds:

  • carrots;
  • potatoes;
  • cucumbers;
  • Luke;
  • greenery

The root crop develops well after green manure. In addition, after such a change in layout, there is a decrease in weed growth.


Beets and onions are a good combination

You can safely add: cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, and onions to beets. To repel insects, you can plant catnip, mint, oregano between the rows.

  • potato;
  • corn;
  • spinach;
  • bulb onions;
  • carrot.

Growing in a garden with other neighbors does not cause any particular concern.

Where to plant strawberries in open ground

Strawberry crop does not show capriciousness to the soil environment, so there will be no difficulty in choosing a place for planting young shoots. Useful precursors for strawberries are:

  • parsley;
  • radish;
  • garlic;
  • legumes;
  • corn;
  • carrot;
  • dill, etc.

You should refuse to use a plot for strawberries if there is were previously grown:

  • potato;
  • tomatoes, peppers;
  • eggplant;
  • cabbage;
  • raspberries

Arranging vegetable beds, as neighbors for strawberries it is recommended to choose:

  • spinach;
  • salad;
  • radish;
  • cabbage;
  • carrot.

With other plants sweet berry will also be comfortable, since there is no obvious rivalry between them.

What crops are suitable for proximity to eggplants?

When choosing a place to plant eggplants, preference should be given to the following predecessors: onions, cucumbers, cabbage early dates ripening, perennial herbs.

From former beds with potatoes, tomatoes, physalis and peppers it's better to refuse. It is also necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation, It is impossible to place and grow a crop in the same place every year(an interval of at least 3 years is observed).

When planning an eggplant bed Can select as companions:

  • peas;
  • beans;
  • basil;
  • salad;
  • tarragon;
  • thyme.

The representative of the nightshade family gets along quite well with the rest of its neighbors. The blue ones have no special prohibitions regarding combinations.

Peas and beans

The best predecessors For peas and beans, root vegetable crops, cabbage, and representatives of the pumpkin family are considered. The legumes themselves create the most favorable environment in the soil when growing, so after them you can grow almost anything.

Not worth it When organizing a bed after sunflower, the quality and yield are significantly reduced due to fungal infections and contamination with carrion.

When selecting companions, first of all, the proximity to each other (peas and beans) is excluded. This is caused by several factors:

  • attracting pests;
  • interweaving of stems;
  • possibility of cross-pollination.

The most suitable for close proximity are:

  • kohlrabi;
  • carrot;
  • salad;
  • radish;
  • celery;
  • corn;
  • cabbage;
  • potato.

Planting with other crops has no special restrictions.

Greenery

When selecting precursors for greens (onions, dill, parsley, garlic, cilantro), preference should be given to legumes and vegetable root vegetables.

Not recommended plant greens after umbrella crops; the relatedness of the plants indicates their identical nutritional needs. Because of this, the yield will decrease significantly every year.

Close to green planting can be placed beds with cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, strawberries, peppers and other green vegetables. Definitely not suitable for growing together: carrots, parsnips, tomatoes. It is allowed to be adjacent to greenery early varieties potatoes and representatives of legumes.

Crops table

It is useful to supplement the gardener’s diary with a table of compatibility of crops grown on your site.


In red indicates incompatibility of cultures, green- the most favorable neighborhood for development and fruiting. Colorless window indicates the neutrality of interaction between plants, which does not exclude their proximity in the garden.

There is absolutely no difficulty in planning beds if you think everything through in advance. Autumn processing Soil maintenance should be carried out taking into account the agricultural technology of those vegetables and berries that will be grown on it next season.

Over many centuries of growing vegetables, people have noticed that some vegetables grow well together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other's growth. Vegetables, herbs, and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart landing will provide you with a large harvest.

Choice of garden neighbors.

Choosing garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but in the vicinity of another companion plant. This tactic helps to minimize harmful effects insects and diseases.

Garden neighbor rules. When choosing garden neighbors, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Vegetables from the cabbage family, for example, are well planted next to beets and green leaf crops. Some herbs will help repel pests from cabbage. Planted in the same bed as cabbage, mint will improve its taste.

Vegetables can experience not only sympathy, but also antipathy towards each other: some vegetables retard growth and reduce each other's yield. The simple sign below will help you choose a good neighborhood.

What vegetables grow well in one bed?

I offer you a short table of vegetable compatibility. More detailed information- further in the article.

Vegetables Good neighborhood Bad neighborhood
Asparagus Tomatoes No
Beans Corn, celery, garden savory, cucumbers, radishes, strawberries Onion and garlic
Beet Cabbage, broccoli, lettuce, onion, garlic Beans
White cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts Beets, chard, potatoes, celery, dill, lettuce, onions, spinach beans
Carrot Legumes, tomatoes No
Celery Beans, tomatoes, cabbage No
Corn Cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin, peas, beans, pumpkin Tomatoes
cucumbers Beans, corn, peas, cabbage No
Eggplant Beans, pepper No
Melon Corn, pumpkin, radish, zucchini No
Onion Beets, carrots, chard, lettuce, peppers Legumes
Peas Beans, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, corn, radishes. Onion garlic
Potato Beans, corn, peas Tomatoes
Zucchini Corn, melons, pumpkins No
Tomatoes Carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, peppers Corn, kohlrabi, potatoes

Other useful neighbors for vegetables

In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crop with another, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in garden beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.

Flowers next to vegetables.

Good advice: plant a few marigolds in the tomato bed; they repel pests. You can even decorate the entire perimeter of the garden with marigolds - this will help keep pests at a distance.

Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very popular with aphids. These pests will prefer to feast on nasturtium and will not pay attention to nearby vegetables.

Vegetables and herbs.

Planting herbs nearby will give your vegetables a more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-purpose barrier against most insect pests.

When deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also common sense. Lettuce, radishes and other fast-growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radishes will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Loving shadow green leafy vegetables, such as spinach and chard, are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well next to corn because their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.

Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider the successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.

Plant compatibility.

Neighbors for carrots.

What can I plant carrots next to? The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:

  • beans;
  • sage;
  • radish;
  • salad;
  • rosemary;
  • peas;
  • tomatoes.

And here is a negative neighborhood for carrots:

  • dill;
  • parsley.

Optimal conditions for pepper.

  • basil;
  • coriander;
  • onions;
  • spinach;
  • tomatoes.

Do not plant peppers near beans.

Potatoes and their neighbors.

What can I plant potatoes next to? Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:

  • beans;
  • broccoli;
  • cabbage;
  • corn;
  • eggplants;
  • garlic;
  • lettuce;
  • onions;
  • peas;
  • radish.

You can’t plant potatoes if they grow nearby:

  • cucumbers;
  • melons;
  • zucchini;
  • sunflowers;
  • tomatoes;
  • turnip.

Neighbors of tomatoes.

  • asparagus;
  • basil;
  • beans;
  • cucumbers;
  • carrots;
  • celery;
  • dill;
  • salad;
  • melons;
  • onions;
  • parsley;
  • pepper;
  • radishes;
  • spinach;
  • thyme;

Do not place tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn next to each other.

Neighbors for asparagus.

What can you plant asparagus next to? An excellent neighborhood for asparagus would be:

  • basil;
  • beet;
  • salad;
  • parsley;
  • spinach;
  • tomatoes.

What should you not plant asparagus with?

Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.

Neighbors for beans.

What can you plant beans next to? Optimal neighborhood for beans:

  • broccoli;
  • cabbage;
  • carrot;
  • celery;
  • cauliflower;
  • cucumbers;
  • eggplant;
  • peas;
  • potato;
  • radish;
  • zucchini;
  • strawberry;
  • tomatoes.

Undesirable neighborhood for beans:

  • garlic;
  • sunflowers;
  • pepper.

Neighbors in the beet bed.

What can you plant beets next to? Beets will give a greater yield next to:

  • broccoli;
  • asparagus;
  • cauliflower;
  • salad;
  • onions

Undesirable neighbors in the beet bed:

  • mustard;
  • beans.

Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.

What should I plant broccoli next to? Optimal neighborhood for broccoli:

  • beans;
  • beet;
  • celery;
  • cucumbers;
  • potato;
  • sage.

Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:

  • cabbage;
  • cauliflower;
  • salad;
  • green beans;
  • tomatoes.

Garden neighbors for Brussels sprouts.

What is the best place to plant Brussels sprouts next to? Best neighbors:

  • dill;
  • salad;
  • radish;
  • sage;
  • spinach;
  • turnip.

Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor: tomatoes.

Neighbors for cabbage.

What can I plant cabbage next to?

  • beans;
  • celery;
  • cucumbers;
  • dill;
  • salad;
  • potato;
  • sage;
  • spinach;
  • thyme.

Undesirable neighbors in the cabbage bed:

  • broccoli;
  • cauliflower;
  • strawberry;
  • tomatoes.

Cauliflower and its neighbors.

  • beans;
  • beet;
  • celery;
  • cucumbers;
  • sage;
  • thyme.

Bad neighbors for cauliflower:

  • broccoli;
  • cabbage;
  • strawberry;
  • tomatoes.

Companions of celery.

Celery has no unwanted neighbors. But to grow it better nearby With:

  • beans;
  • broccoli;
  • cabbage;
  • cauliflower;
  • leeks;
  • spinach;
  • tomatoes.

What beds to make next to cucumbers?

  • beans;
  • broccoli;
  • corn;
  • cabbage;
  • cauliflower;
  • sunflowers;
  • peas;
  • salad;
  • radish.

Cucumbers should not be planted next to herbs, melons and potatoes.

Corn and its neighborhood.

  • beans;
  • cucumbers;
  • salad;
  • melons;
  • peas;
  • potato;
  • zucchini;
  • sunflowers.

But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!

Recommendations for eggplants.

Eggplants do not have unwanted neighbors in the garden, but they feel great next to:

  • basil;
  • beans;
  • salad;
  • peas;
  • potatoes;
  • spinach.

Lettuce.

Optimal bed companions for lettuce:

  • asparagus;
  • beet;
  • cabbage;
  • Brussels sprouts;
  • carrot;
  • cucumbers;
  • peas;
  • eggplant;
  • potato;
  • radish;
  • spinach;
  • strawberry;
  • sunflowers;
  • tomatoes.

But broccoli is the worst companion for lettuce.

What should I plant onions next to?

The best location for onions will be:

  • beet;
  • tomatoes;
  • broccoli;
  • spinach;
  • cabbage;
  • potato;
  • carrot;
  • salad;
  • pepper.

Worst:

  • beans;
  • peas;
  • sage.

Peas and their neighbors in the garden.

What vegetables should I place next to the pea beds? Peas feel great next to:

  • beans;
  • carrots;
  • corn;
  • cucumbers;
  • eggplants;
  • salad;
  • melons;
  • parsnip;
  • potatoes;
  • radishes;
  • spinach;
  • turnip.

Do not plant peas near beds with onions and garlic.

Useful weeds in the garden.

Sometimes plants can only be beneficial to each other at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds in the garden be useful? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of soil and bring them to the surface. As weeds die and decompose, nutrients become available at the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. This is why some vegetables grow very well next to nettles.