Lay laminate flooring over old wood flooring. Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor: preparing the base and carrying out the work. Is it possible to install laminate flooring on wooden floors?

The choice of flooring on the construction market is very diverse, but laminate remains the favorite of many builders and designers. Laminated boards can imitate the most expensive types of wood, but are also more affordable. The most reliable installation method is installation on a flat concrete screed. However, subject to a number of rules, this coating is compatible with wooden floors. Installing laminate flooring on a wooden floor yourself is not difficult if you follow the detailed instructions presented in this article.

Wood floor diagnostics

The first step in updating your flooring is assessing the condition of the old one. You cannot lay laminate on an uneven base, especially if there is a strong difference from one corner of the room to the other. Laminate boards are installed using the floating method; a large angle of inclination will cause the boards to slide to the lowest point. If the old wooden floor is heavily bonded, has wide cracks, and individual boards are rotten, it needs to be taken down to the base, the old beams replaced and strengthened.

To accurately determine the suitability of the floor, it is necessary to carefully measure it with a building level. Measurements should be taken alternately in all corners, in the center of the room and in the middle of the walls, and then compare the results with the table.

Suitability of the floor for laying laminate	Height difference of boards	Size of gaps between boards	Change from one wall to another	Depth of recesses on the surface of the boards
The floor is flat, ready for installation, the thickness of the underlay is minimal	No more than 2mm/m2	There are practically no gaps	No more than 0.5 mm	The boards are smooth, do not stick together, are firmly fixed
The floor has uneven surfaces; it can be leveled by scraping or using a denser underlay. Laminate thickness – at least 8 mm	No more than 5 mm/m2	No more than 2 mm	No more than 2 cm	The boards are curved or concave, the depth of recesses and holes is no more than 3 mm
The floor needs to be leveled. Without leveling, the thickness of the laminate must be at least 12 mm, the backing is made of polystyrene foam	No more than 10 mm/m2	No more than 5 mm	About 2cm	The boards have depressions up to 3-5 mm
The floor must first be leveled (including with sheet materials)	More than 10 mm/m2	More than 5 mm	More than 3 cm	The boards creak a lot and have deep depressions of more than 5 mm

Floor leveling methods

Acrylic putty or sealant used when the total difference does not exceed 3-5 mm. The advantage of such putty is its high plasticity, which means that when the boards are displaced under load, it will not collapse. Before applying it, the boards should be treated with a primer to increase adhesion. You need to putty 1-2 times. Instead of acrylic, you can use a more durable mixture with PVA glue. Putty on glue is applied in the same way, but after applying it the surface must be sanded.

Plywood copes with large and medium height differences. This material is often used when leveling floors due to its lightness, hardness and resistance to various loads. There is a wide selection of moisture-resistant varieties on sale. Depending on the degree of unevenness, choose either fastening the plywood to the joists or directly to the floor. Under laminate, the plywood thickness should be at least 10 mm.

Fastening plywood without using joists:

• If the width of the boards does not exceed 20 cm and the floor is without significant unevenness, plywood can be chosen with a thickness of up to 8-10 mm. For floors with large defects, deflections and differences of more than 0.5 cm, the thickness should reach 18-20 mm. When there are wide cracks, the joints near the walls need to be sealed with polyurethane foam. For ease of installation, sheets of plywood can be cut into 1250x1250 squares with a jigsaw.
• The first step when leveling the floor with plywood is to remove the old baseboard and nails. Irregularities and protrusions are smoothed out with a plane, and then the floor is thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris.
• Plywood is secured with screws or self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 cm, leaving small gaps near the walls and between the sheets. Gaps of 0.5-1 cm will be enough to avoid squeaks and swelling due to expansion of the material.

Fastening plywood to joists:

• Logs are installed when there is significant curvature of the floor, a difference in height from one wall to another, or in a room with high humidity.
• The direction of the lag is determined by the direction of sunlight. They need to be installed perpendicular
  sunlight or parallel to the movement of people in rooms without windows.
• In cases where the difference from opposite walls is large (up to 8-10 cm), mini-logs are made - special linings of different thicknesses made of plywood or timber. Where the difference is not strong, a beam of small cross-section is installed, but it is fastened more often, approximately every 30-35 cm, and where it is large, a beam of greater thickness is attached accordingly.
• Before starting work, you need to make engineering calculations to determine the height of each supporting element.
• Then the logs are installed around the perimeter of the room at a distance of 40-50 cm and cross bars.
• You should not put heat-insulating material like mineral wool between the joists, because it is not durable and over time the floors will have to be redone and the insulation replaced. If you use expanded clay for thermal protection, it must be hermetically covered with plastic film.
• After the sheathing, plywood sheets are attached, maintaining a gap of 0.3-0.4 mm. The installation is completed by sealing the gap with elastic mastic.
• The surface is primed and the laminate is glued.

Before starting work with plywood, it must be kept for two days in the room where the work will be carried out so that the material has time to acquire the necessary moisture characteristics.

Wet screed Suitable for durable wooden floors with a maximum unevenness of 1 cm. It cannot be used for more significant distortions. For maximum strength and elasticity of the screed, special dry mixtures with plasticizers and fillers for wooden floors are selected. Leveling begins with the application of a reinforcing mesh followed by priming of the floor. The screed is a layer of no more than 1 centimeter.

For wooden floors, constant ventilation is important to avoid rot. Therefore, a channel with a diameter of up to 50 mm was often drilled through a board in the corner of the room. Such channels cannot be covered up during renovation and repair of the flooring.

How to choose a laminate

An important step is choosing a laminate

Quality and cost-effectiveness have made laminate such a popular floor covering. Its characteristics include strength, moisture resistance, ease of installation and maintenance.

A good laminate has similar properties to natural wood: the same texture, pattern, shade. Before choosing a laminated board for certain rooms, evaluate the quality of the top layer and the required thickness.

The wear resistance of the laminate is determined by the quality of the external coating, which is indicated in the classes. Typically, classes 31, 32, 33, 34 are found on the market. The first two options are universal for any residential premises. A higher class is installed if there is a heavy load on the floor, for example, in shopping centers, restaurants, hotels, etc. The service life of the coating also depends on the class. With proper care, class 31 laminate can last up to 12 years, and the most durable class 34 laminate can last up to 25 years.

The thickness of the laminate is 5, 8, 10 and 12 mm and the higher it is, the stronger the coating. Sometimes a thicker coating is used to eliminate unevenness. However, it is more correct and reliable to pre-level the floor and use boards of medium thickness.

• Laminate for the kitchen They use moisture resistant so that it does not deteriorate due to frequent cleaning. A textured surface will be preferable, because it does not slip and makes stains or stains less noticeable. Due to the high load in this room, class 33 is the most optimal.
• For bathrooms They produce a waterproof laminate consisting of PVC boards with a rubber seal. Such boards do not allow water to pass through, do not deform, and are similar in properties to conventional ceramic tiles. Laminate is warmer than ceramics and can be embossed, which will prevent you from slipping on a wet floor.
• When replacing flooring in a residential area The main deciding factors are color, design and sound insulation properties. Although boards are sold with a special rubber layer glued to the decorative surface, you still need to additionally install a separate backing for more reliable sound insulation. For living rooms, class 31 or 32 laminate will be sufficient.
• Hallway- this is a room with high traffic and significant load, so 33 or 34 class coatings are chosen for it. The board must be moisture resistant so that frequent cleaning of dust and dirt does not disturb the decorative layer.

It is better to buy laminate from one manufacturer, since sometimes the thickness may differ between different companies. Even a difference of a few millimeters can make installation difficult.

Types of substrates

The underlay is a layer of insulating material that lies between the subfloor and the decorative floor. It protects the floor covering from friction, deformation, as well as moisture and heat loss. The underlay smooths out floor unevenness up to 0.5 cm.

Choosing a substrate is not an easy task due to the wide variety of options on the construction market. In principle, they are all suitable for laying on a wooden floor and differ in price, service life, and physical characteristics.

• Cork backing made from compressed oak bark chips - an environmentally friendly material. Sometimes bitumen or rubber is added to the composition. This substrate is durable, lasts a long time, and has good thermal and sound insulation properties. Suitable for children's bedrooms. Disadvantages: high cost, poor resistance to moisture.
• another environmentally friendly material with a density that allows you to hide uneven subfloors. It has increased thermal insulation, which is a big plus for the northern regions. Easy to install, but not suitable for rooms with high humidity due to the risk of mold development.
• Extruded polystyrene– synthetic moisture-resistant material that is not subject to deformation and rotting. Due to its high thermal insulation properties, it can be installed in an unheated room. The precise geometric shape simplifies installation, and the low price makes it affordable. However, the material does not have high leveling properties.
• Polyethylene backing lightweight, moisture-resistant and cheap, but quickly wears out from mechanical damage. It needs to be changed 4-5 years after installation.
• Foil isolon consists of two layers: foil and polystyrene. Suitable for wet areas such as baths and kitchens. The material is durable, but it is worth considering that it sags over time, so the optimal thickness should be about 5 mm.
• Integrated substrates. Some types of laminate are sold already with a backing.

The thickness of the substrate should not exceed 2 mm, because due to the uneven load on the laminated boards, the coating will be deformed and the locks will become unusable.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

Calculating the amount of materials must begin with setting the area of ​​the room. The main problem is that the total area often does not correspond to the actual area. If there is a room 3 meters wide and 5 meters long, the total area can be easily calculated by multiplying one value by another. However, for the actual area, all ledges, doorways, thresholds, niches must be taken into account. Therefore, the best way to calculate the area is to take measurements meter by meter.

At the second stage, it is worth making a detailed drawing of the room, taking into account all the protrusions. The plan diagram will help identify difficult areas and possible additional costs for material. At this stage it is good to determine the method of laying the laminate. The simplest and most economical installation methods are parallel and perpendicular, but it is worth remembering that there is a 10-15% supply of material. With a diagonal laying pattern, the margin reaches 15-20%.

There are more complex installation methods, for example, in the style of a herringbone parquet. These methods are the most difficult and expensive; additional materials are required up to 30%. Due to the difficulties in installation, it is better to leave such work to professional craftsmen.

The calculation of the amount of laminate is made based on the information on the label, which indicates the area covered by the boards of one pack. But this figure is valid only for the simplest installation scheme, without taking into account the characteristics of the room. For more accurate calculations, it is necessary to add the percentage of waste to the actual area of ​​the room, and thendivide by the area indicated on the package. The resulting number is rounded up.

The number of screws and self-tapping screws is calculated based on the number of joists and plywood. Let's say there are 10 joists on the floor, on which 20 boards are laid. Multiplying these numbers, we get the number of fasteners. The additional margin should be 10-20%. Plywood needs to be fastened every 15 cm, so the number of screws can be easily calculated by dividing the length and width of the room by 15, and then multiplying by the total number of sheets.

Installation Tools

Installing laminate flooring is not difficult to do yourself. You don’t need to buy complex and expensive tools for it. The only thing worth investing in is a good jigsaw. With any layout scheme, the last laminate boards in the row will have to be sawed down.

• tape measure from 3 to 5 meters long
• soft construction pencil for precise markings
• square up to 30 cm
• jigsaw or handy saw
• hammer or mallet

Special tools for laminate are necessary so as not to damage the locks and decorative coating during work:

• metal bracket or installer
• wedges
• puncher (or block)
• set of flat milling drills

Laminate bracket- This is a thin plate with bends at the ends at an angle of ninety degrees. It helps when laying laminate boards near the wall, evenly distributes the load when pressed and does not deform the edges. The wide thin part of the staple is placed under the board, and then tapped with a hammer on the opposite end.

Due to the fact that laminate is a hygroscopic material that can expand, special gaps of 10 mm must be left along the walls. These temperature gaps are formed using wedges.

The plastic material of the hammer or block softens the impact force of the hammer and helps avoid the formation of chips on the decorative part. A set of drills is needed for large diameter holes for pipelines and radiators.

Additional tools

Additional tools may also be required to quickly install laminate flooring. The cutting machine and square help you quickly and reliably fit the board into corners and niches. For complex patterns, stencils are used.

Stages of laying the substrate

The process of laying the substrate is simple. You don't need to buy special devices for it.

Minimum set of tools:

• roulette
• scotch
• stationery knife
• pencil

As with steel materials, the backing sheets must be left in the room for a day to adjust to temperature.

Further stages of work:

• clean the floor from dust
• lay the sheets of backing on the floor with the smooth side up, overlapping in a checkerboard pattern to avoid overlap between the joints of the insulation and the floor covering
• joints are glued with tape
• the protruding edges of the substrate are cut off
• start laying laminate flooring

If not a sheet substrate was chosen, but a roll one, a transverse or longitudinal laying method is selected. When the underlay is laid across the laminate installation, it is installed over the entire floor at once. When laying longitudinally, the material is laid in strips and a layer of laminate is immediately installed on top.

There is no need to install waterproofing before laying the underlay on a wooden floor.

Laying methods

Before choosing a laminate installation method, you need to familiarize yourself with existing fastening systems.

• Adhesive fastening system reminiscent of fixing a parquet board using the tongue-and-groove method. After applying glue to the edges of the lamellas, the boards are firmly pressed against each other. This method is used to increase the strength of joints and seams in very wet rooms. The sizing protects the coating from environmental influences. However, fixing with the adhesive method is a very labor-intensive job and over time the glue loses its properties, which reduces the service life of the coating and the impracticability of re-installation.
• Lock system "Lok" installed on the ends of the laminate boards. The figured tenon is attached by driving an already laid board into the groove. Sometimes the spikes are pre-glued. This method is most convenient for horizontal laying of laminate flooring. Installation begins in adjacent rows, and then proceeds to the end rows.
• "Click" locking system the most common due to its ease and simplicity of installation. Fastening occurs as follows: the tenon of one row is inserted at an angle of 30 degrees into the groove of the previous row, and then pressed to the floor until a characteristic click is heard. Then the laminated board is lightly tamped for a stronger fixation.

Laying schemes

The most common method of laying laminate flooring is similar to laying parquet: The boards are laid in the direction of the window light. However, the design or construction of the room allows for a different arrangement of boards.

Laminate can be installed in one of the following ways:

• parallel to the direction of the sun's rays
• perpendicular to the direction of the sun's rays
• from different angles

If you want to visually change the width, height or length of the room by adjusting the flow of natural light, you can choose different laying patterns: classic, diagonal or checkerboard. Regardless of the design, laminate boards are installed with each subsequent row shifted by 20-25 cm relative to the previous one. This gives the coating reliable strength.

1 Classic scheme installation is the simplest and most affordable for updating a wooden floor yourself. Installation starts from the wall closest to the solar flow. The boards are laid out parallel to natural light. The first part of each subsequent row will be the cut part of the previous one. The pieces are used for laying near radiators and doorways. For this installation method, you need to buy laminate boards at least 30 cm long. Waste with the classical scheme is minimal, amounting to no more than 5%.

2 Chess scheme the most reliable, but the overconsumption of material increases to 15%. The pattern of the laminate floor is created by mixing each next row strictly at a certain distance relative to the previous one and resembles a checkerboard pattern or brickwork. You should not use this scheme with a colored decorative layer. It will look neater with a plain fabric.

3 Diagonal pattern styling is used to visually expand a small room. The material consumption for a square-shaped room is significantly less than for a narrow one. On average, the segments are about 15%. The installation is similar to the classic scheme, but the boards are installed at an angle of forty-five degrees relative to the wall with the window.

Laying sequence

After leveling the floor, carrying out all the preparatory work and laying the substrate, the master’s further actions should be as follows:

For longitudinal and transverse installation

• installation of the first row of boards begins at the wall opposite the exit
• Wedges are installed around the perimeter to separate the flooring from the walls
• the first panel is placed close to the gap made by the wedge
• the second board is attached in the manner recommended by the manufacturer and tapped with a hammer through a block so as not to injure the locks. Installation will be easier if the locks on the boards are attached with the Click system
• This is how the first row of laminate flooring is assembled
• for the first board of the second row, saw the laminate board across
• starting rows alternately: first from halves, sometimes from solid boards, creating a stronger grip. This way the load on the floor is distributed evenly
• When the first two rows are assembled, you need to dock them with each other. To do this, raise the second line at a certain angle and connect the groove with the tenon until a characteristic click
• we lay the rows to the extreme
• to assemble the last row, you need to measure the width of each board separately and make appropriate marks on the back side. Carefully measuring each board will help avoid problems due to possible unevenness of the walls. The gap between the wall must be taken into account. The laminate is cut along the drawn line
• To adjust the outermost row of panels, you should use a clamp. Some craftsmen, in order to save money, refuse to purchase this tool and use a nail puller
• after completing the assembly of all rows, the selections along the walls are removed, and the gaps are closed with a plinth or decorative threshold

For diagonal installation

• diagonal installation is installation at any angle relative to the walls. You can start the installation in two ways: either from the central point of the room to the corners, or from the corner near the window to the opposite corner of the wall with the front door
• to accurately check the direction of the laminated board, you can pull a thick nylon thread onto the screws from opposite corners of the room
• The main difficulty with diagonal installation is the correct cutting of the last boards in the row. It must be made at a certain bevel in order to accurately fit with the walls and baseboard. After installing the penultimate panel, measure the remaining distance to the wall from the two end corners of the board. The resulting lengths are applied with a construction pencil to the back of the laminate, and then the dots are connected. Trimming is done on the inside with an electric jigsaw or saw.
• projections and niches are also a difficult point with this type of installation. They are found in the form of decorative elements of a room or when laying continuous boards in several rooms of an apartment at the same time. Laying panels in such places requires careful calculations and accuracy.
• Laminate slabs are cut exactly to the shape of the protrusions and installation should begin right next to them
• the gaps between the flooring and the doorway are usually closed with paneling, which is twice as thin as laminate, and accordingly the gap should be smaller

Laying laminate around pipes and other communications

When installing laminate flooring, many rooms encounter problematic areas, such as pipes or radiators installed too low. In this case, the board must be sawn to the required length and drilled so that the hole is larger in diameter than the diameter of the pipe. Then the board is sawn crosswise in the place of the sawn circle. Most of it is secured with a lock to the previous panel, and the smaller part is placed behind the pipe and secured with glue. The same is done with radiators; the sawn-off pieces are placed under them and glued.

The door frame can be decorated in different ways. You can simply saw the last boards in the row to match the distance to the door, and then cover the joint with a small strip. But more often another method is used. The base of the door frame is cut to the thickness of the laminate and the plate is pulled tightly under the jamb beam.

The width of the temperature gap near the entrance door should be no more than 5 mm.

Optimal gap width between the wall and the laminate

First of all, it is worth describing in detail why this gap is needed. The temperature gap is more correctly called compensation; it is necessary for the free movement of laminated boards when they decrease or increase due to changes in temperature or humidity of the room. If this is not observed, the outer panels installed close to the walls will become deformed due to expansion.

To prevent the board from deforming during use, it is necessary to carry out climatic adaptation of the floor covering. To do this, the purchased boards are removed from the packaging and laid out in the center of the room. The material gets used to the temperature conditions of the room. It is important to lay the laminate in the center, and not against the walls, so that it does not absorb their moisture. Acclimatization should last several days.

For standard rooms with normal temperature and humidity conditions, a gap of 7-9 mm is sufficient, but for long and narrow rooms it should be increased. In particularly wet rooms, the gap width can reach up to 15 mm. To form them, you can buy special wedges or make them from leftover plywood or timber.

The plinth is attached not to the floor, but to the wall using glue. Its width must be at least 5 mm larger than the width of the gap. The fact is that if the laminate was installed without acclimatization, the boards may move and the gap between the coating and the baseboard will become visible. There have been cases when, due to insufficient leveling of the subfloor, the laminate rolled into one corner and a gap formed at the opposite wall. The gap between the boards and convex corners or niches can be masked with sealant.

Selecting and installing skirting boards

In addition to the practical benefits of a floor border in the form of protecting walls from dirt and masking the expansion gap, the plinth plays an important aesthetic role. It can change the geometry of the room and give a neat, finished look. Skirting boards of various structures and colors are sold on the construction market, and in order not to get lost in them, you should pay attention to several basic characteristics: color, thickness and material compatibility.

The closest thing to a laminate in terms of material composition and texture is a plinth made of laminated MDF. The same thick films are applied to the laminated board and baseboard and it is very easy to choose a border that matches the color of the floor covering.

The correct choice of baseboard color can either visually expand the space or reduce it and highlight all the shortcomings of the repair. A plinth in the same tone as the floor makes the room wider. If you choose a color that matches the color of the walls, the ceiling will seem noticeably higher. Sometimes designers advise using floor borders in contrasting shades to emphasize expressiveness. In order not to waste time carefully selecting the color of the plinth, you can buy wooden or veneered ones and repaint them.

It is difficult to choose the right baseboard for the unusual colors of the laminate. Therefore, a plastic profile with a suitable texture would be a universal option.

Installation of the plinth is done in two ways. In the first case, the dies are attached to each other using a bayonet-groove system, and then to the wall using staples and nails, or glue. Due to the constant sliding of laminate boards under the influence of different temperatures, it is impossible to attach the skirting board directly to the floor covering. Another problem arises: often the walls are not completely flat, and in order for the profile to fit tightly to them, you should choose a plinth with a rubber backing along the entire length of the whip. Rubber additionally protects the coating from moisture and protects it from mold and rot.

The stages, as well as installation methods, depend on the specific type of plinth model. The plastic profile consists of a fastening strip and a decorative panel. First, the base is adjusted to size and secured with dowels or glue. The decorative part is installed with additional connecting elements.

Aluminum multi-level thresholds

Between two types of laminate. Joints between several types of laminate appear when boards of different fastening systems were used, the floor area is too large, and the surface requires an additional expansion joint, or the material is used to form ledges or steps. Decorative moldings are used to hide the joints. They maintain a gap, while covering it from dust and dirt. Moldings come in different types and solve several problems. Straight ones mask joints at the same level, leveling ones are designed for height differences of up to 2-3 mm, multi-level planks eliminate differences of up to 2 cm, and corner ones connect laminate boards arranged crosswise.

Between laminate and parquet/linoleum the gap is closed with a threshold. Depending on the level of floor coverings, thresholds can be single-level or multi-level. Sometimes the joint with linoleum is filled with glue.

Flexible PVC profile in the interior

Different floor coverings are used in design, for example, for effective zoning of large rooms. In this case, you need not only to choose the method of designing the joint, but also the installation features. In many apartments you can find a combination of ceramic tiles and laminate, when the board is installed in the hallway and the tiles are in the kitchen.

At the first stage, you need to find out the thickness of the coating, draw up a template diagram for further installation and mark the joint location. The next question is which material should be placed first. When it comes to tiles and laminates, the tiles should be installed first. It has standard parameters and thickness, while the final thickness of the laminate depends on the substrate and can change by several millimeters under load.

It is not difficult to install the tiles directly along the intended connection line with the laminate. The gap between the surfaces must be at least 5 mm. The laminate is easily adjusted to the joint due to simple processing. Then one of the sill options is installed at the joint:

• flexible PVC profile is suitable for multi-level joints and for even connections. Has a decorative part and can be customized in color
• an aluminum threshold is a good option if two floor coverings are joined under a doorway. Such a threshold can hide a height difference of several millimeters. According to the fastening method, there are self-adhesive, self-tapping and hidden fastenings
• A box threshold is a large threshold, up to 3 cm high. According to popular belief, it can protect against drafts and stop the flow of water in case of a leak in the bathroom
• however, in practice, the box threshold does not protect against anything and causes inconvenience when cleaning floors. Many builders recommend leaving a gap of at least 2 cm between the door and the threshold
• The solid wood profile is very beautiful, but is considered the most expensive. Attached with glue
• The cork expansion joint closes the temperature joint without forming significant protrusions. However, such material does not protect the gap from dirt and dust.

During repairs, you need to thoroughly vacuum the surface

On one side, laminate is an accessible covering that is easy to install thanks to a convenient locking system. However, problems sometimes arise with it, because the board is susceptible to unevenness of the subfloor. For proper installation, all instructions must be followed exactly, but even then, sometimes even a new floor can begin to squeak. Sometimes it is difficult to determine the exact cause of floor problems.

Uneven base

It can cause squeaking when depressions form under the laminate board. At this point the board begins to sag and bends when stepped on under pressure. If the creaking is heard only under a few boards, they must be carefully disassembled, find the groove, cover it with mortar or place a layer of cardboard, then put it back together.

When the problem is global, the entire surface is creaking, it is necessary to completely redo the floor. For ease of reassembly, panels should be numbered. The base needs to be leveled and the substrate replaced.

Thick backing

They are often installed when they want to level the surface, but this approach is wrong. A soft and thick substrate causes the boards to sag heavily over floor irregularities, and under load, such a board can even crack. The optimal thickness of the substrate should not exceed 3 mm.

We need to go through the floor and replace it. If this is not possible, all that remains is to get used to the unpleasant sounds and avoid this mistake during the subsequent replacement of the coating.

Small gap

Between the laminate and the walls it not only impedes the natural movement of the boards, but also creates high pressure on the fastening mechanisms. Because of this, a squeak occurs. Fixing this problem is relatively easy. It is enough to remove the boards around the perimeter of the room and cut them lengthwise so that the gap is at least 5 mm.

Variable humidity

It greatly affects the condition of the laminate floor; it begins to creak across the entire surface. The easiest way is to wait for the season to change. If the laminate was installed in the cold season, you should wait until it warms up to find out if the squeaks go away. If the problem is inconsistent humidity, it will soon resolve itself.

Sand and dust

A common cause of severe squeaking. Foreign particles are a source of not only unpleasant noise, but also damage to the locks of laminate boards. Particles that get into the locks begin to deform them little by little due to friction. To avoid this, during repairs you should carefully remove all debris with a vacuum cleaner, and it is advisable to cut the boards in a separate room.

The problem is much more serious if the dust did not arise as a result of replacing the flooring, but due to the shedding of the screed. To avoid destruction, the surface of the screed must be carefully primed. To clean the floor from dust, you will have to completely go through it and then vacuum it. An outdated screed should be re-primed and a new backing applied.

The question of how to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor is quite rhetorical. This is due to the fact that many professionals do not recommend doing this, explaining that wood is a short-lived material, unlike modern laminated boards.

However, laminate flooring in a wooden house is not such a rare phenomenon and is found everywhere. Installation on high-quality wooden floors made relatively recently is allowed, since in this case they can last 15–20 years without repair.

What to pay attention to

The packaging with the material describes the installation technology, however, how to lay the laminate on a wooden floor, concrete, leveled with plywood or chipboard is not disclosed.

They reveal general surface principles. Therefore, when planning to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor with your own hands, you should keep the following factors in mind:

1. A wooden plank is not as stable as a concrete base. Therefore, if it wobbles or bends, it will quickly fail; a similar situation will occur with the laminated coating.
2. It is not recommended to install laminate flooring on an old wooden floor.
3. The wood must be new and have good mechanical characteristics that will be valid throughout the entire life of the laminate.
4. Laying laminate floors on wooden floors is only allowed if they do not have any defects.

From all of the above, we can conclude that laying laminate flooring on an old wooden floor is undesirable, but if this procedure is performed, you need to carefully prepare the base.

The new surface must be perfectly leveled and secured.

Checking the condition of the wooden floor

Before laying the laminate, inspect the old coating

To determine whether laminate flooring can be laid on a wooden floor, you need to diagnose the base. In this case, you need to pay attention not only to the boards, but also to the transverse joists and support beams.

The procedure is performed by a careful visual inspection to identify rotten areas or other defects that reduce the life of the floor.

In addition, it is advisable to check the surface level in advance with a construction level.

If it has deviations from the horizontal plane, then it must be leveled with a plane or other method. Laying laminate flooring on wooden floors is only permitted in the following cases:

• the surface has no visible defects (cracks, rotten areas, crevices);
• the board does not bend under load;
• there are no creaks or other sound defects;
• there are no height differences differing by more than 2 mm.

Only when the base meets the above requirements can you think about the question of how to properly lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor with your own hands.

Complete installation instructions

There is one basic rule for laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor: the surface must be perfectly level. Laying laminated boards is not that difficult. Even a person who has no experience in similar work can cope with this.

Surface preparation

To install laminate flooring on a wooden floor with your own hands, you need to completely empty the room of furniture. If the radiator or heating pipes are located very low, they may need to be rearranged.

After this, you need to dismantle the old skirting boards: the wooden ones are torn off with a nail puller, it is advisable to remove the plastic ones carefully in order to install them after the installation of the boards is completed. It is necessary to check the entire surface of the floor to identify protruding nail heads, and if found, hammer them in. Before laying plywood, OSB or chipboard, it is advisable to vacuum and wash the floor thoroughly.

To determine the length of the screws needed to screw the floor, you need to calculate the height of the floor relative to the concrete base. This can be done by drilling several holes, looking into them or inserting a probe, which can be used to measure the depth.

Check the thickness of the laminate to understand the height of the covering

Another important detail is the fact that the floor level in the completed state will be slightly higher. It is necessary to take into account the thickness of the sheet material and the size of the laminate. Thus, the minimum rise will be 2 cm.

This is necessary in order to take into account the upper level and determine whether the door will interfere. If you plan to replace it in the future, you can simply dismantle it; if not, then change the level by increasing it. The simplest option is to cut off the lower part with a circular saw or electric jigsaw.

If you are finishing your individual house, you can skip the procedure for determining the length of the screws; for apartment buildings, this action is necessary.

How to properly install laminate flooring on a wooden floor so that it lasts a long time? To do this, you need to carefully level the surface. Having assessed the base, you need to decide whether to install it without plywood, chipboard or OSB, having first leveled out the unevenness using a plane. Otherwise, compensate for minor differences by laying sheet material.

In any case, before taking the next steps, you need to stretch the boards to the joists (in particular, to the recuts). Their location can be determined by the old nail heads visible at the fastening points. If they are heavily colored and not visible, you can use the table below as a guide.

When pulling sheet material with self-tapping screws, a situation may arise when the power of the screwdriver is not enough to achieve a strong fixation. It is also possible for the screws to break and not fit into the wood.

If you dip the tip of the screw in oil, it will go into the wood easier

In this case, you can use any oil. Dipping the tip of the screw into it will make it easier to screw it into the wood. The second method involves drilling a hole in the floor. This is done with a drill of a smaller diameter.

Large unevenness: Bulges or sags can be compensated for by inserting fiberboard pads in these areas. If the surface is very distorted, it may be necessary to install another row of joists or partially open it for the purpose of leveling.

Do-it-yourself installation of laminate flooring on a wooden floor should only be done after the boards have been left in the room for several days. This is necessary for the material to “acclimate” to temperature and climate conditions. During this time, the panels will dry out, or vice versa, they will absorb the required amount of moisture from the air in the room and will be in the optimal position for use in this particular room. For more information about laying the material yourself, watch this video:

Installing laminate flooring on a wooden floor starts from the most visible corner. But there is one little trick. If the door to the premises opens inward, and you do not want to remove it from its hinges, installation should begin from the corner closest to it. If this is not taken into account, difficulties will arise when installing the last row.

Laying laminate flooring produced using modern technology does not require the use of adhesives. The boards are connected to each other using special locks called “Lock” and “Click”.

Start laying the laminate from the wall

They allow for rigid coupling of individual elements and the creation of one complete surface from them.

This installation technology assumes a free arrangement of the coating, which, depending on temperature changes, may vary slightly in size. To do this, leave 1 cm margins along each wall.

You need to start laying the wooden laminate yourself along the wall, connecting the panels one by one to each other. The last board will need to be cut to the required size. It is advisable to use an electric jigsaw or circular saw for this. In this case, the teeth must be small, otherwise chips will form on the board.

For a stronger connection, you can lightly tap the boards

The next row is laid out similarly to the first. In this case, it is advisable to assemble it next to it. After this, you need to attach it to the already finished one, lift one side and insert it into the locks. If necessary, tap a little for the most durable connection.

All subsequent rows are assembled similarly to the previously described method. The last row of laminate flooring will need to be sawed along its entire length. After that, collect it next to the empty space and connect it to the main part.

How to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor so that the seams between the boards are practically invisible? To do this, you need to lay it in a direction perpendicular to the window. Thus, light rays entering the room will not be reflected in them.

It is advisable to lay the panels in a checkerboard pattern

Laying laminate flooring on a plank floor has some nuances regarding adherence to technology and ease of work. First of all, this is the layout method. Seams in adjacent rows should not match. It is necessary to lay out the panels in a checkerboard pattern. This will allow you to assemble the most durable structure. The sawn halves can be used to complete the row.

You can increase the service life of laminate flooring in the kitchen by treating the connecting seams with a transparent sealant during installation. This will prevent moisture from getting inside the board while washing the floor. Thus, the possibility of getting wet and destroying the locking elements disappears.

It is not necessary to immediately leave a gap between the wall and the laid out rows. This can be done after 3–4 rows have been laid out. They just need to be moved to the desired distance and pressed down with something heavy. This makes it much easier to determine the exact laying direction for uneven walls.

Laminate calculation

Laminated material is sold in packages, but some sellers also sell individually. It should be borne in mind that depending on the series and manufacturer, the area of ​​the panels in one package can vary significantly, so you need to pay attention to this.

To determine the required quantity, you must perform the following calculation: divide the area of ​​the room being finished by the amount indicated on the package you have chosen. The resulting number is rounded up to the nearest whole number. For more details on calculations, watch this video:

In this case, you should first decide how the installation will be carried out. Flooring in a diagonal direction involves a large consumption of material. In this case, you need to buy laminate flooring 20% ​​larger than the area of ​​the room.

Selecting a substrate

Another minor condition for how to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor depends on the quality of the substrate. It performs the functions of water absorption, increases thermal insulation, sound insulation and shock absorption.

In addition, due to this material, depreciation and leveling of small irregularities are carried out. When choosing it, first of all you need to pay attention to the following indicators of the floor surface:

• thickness and wear of boards;
• the magnitude and number of differences relative to the surface;
• average room temperature and humidity.

Over time, polypropylene may lose its shock-absorbing properties.

It is placed in order to hide small irregularities. It has good water resistance and creates air movement under the flooring.

The disadvantage is that under increased load, the laid foamed polypropylene fails over time. This can be determined by the appearance of a creaking sound when pressing on such areas. In addition, it has low noise insulation rates.

Cork material

The cork needs to be treated with a special compound

The canvas has a wide range of positive characteristics. It is durable, and in some cases its service life exceeds the service life of the laminate.

It is not afraid of dampness and mold, in addition, it has good performance in terms of sound insulation and shock absorption. The disadvantage is the need for treatment with special compounds necessary to reduce the friction force on the finishing surface.

Expanded polystyrene

When placed under the laminate on the floor, it guarantees a long service life and also has good load-bearing properties. The material is waterproof and has good thermal insulation data. But when planning to buy such material, you should take into account that when it burns, many toxic substances are released, which significantly reduces its popularity. For more information about what is best to lay under the floor covering, watch this video:

In addition, it is used only under an ideal surface. Widely used as a substrate for laminate laid on self-leveling floors. Therefore, if you listen to the advice of professionals, they do not recommend the bath type for use on wooden floors.

Knowing how to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor, you can turn an old stripped floor into a modern solution that meets all design requirements at minimal cost. This will not take much time: 1 – 2 days for leveling and another 1 for laying and installing the skirting boards. Thus, in a maximum of 3 days of work you will profitably transform the room and give it a completely different look.

In the fairly extensive list of floor coverings, there are not too many options that are compatible with a wood base. True, if you follow special rules, you can lay almost anything. But a laminated floor, constructed using the floating principle, is ideal for furnishing a house built over a structure made of beams, joists, and boards. However, compatibility does not save independent craftsmen from studying the nuances according to which laminate flooring is laid on a wooden floor, and from the need to remember the specifics of ever-moving wood.

Can laminate flooring be installed on wood floors?

Laminated panels are bonded only to each other; there is no need to attach them to static building structures, that is, to the floor or walls. Built using a floating design, the floor rests freely on the sub-base, allowing it to expand and contract. And it, in turn, does not prevent the laminate from changing its geometric parameters following temperature changes and humidity fluctuations.

The design specificity of laminated boards makes it possible to do without adhesives that hermetically seal the butt seams. Although adhesive technology exists, it is used extremely rarely due to labor intensity, significant consumption of glue and the inability to disassemble and reassemble permanently joined panels in another place. Glueless, the most popular fastening method, pleases both the wooden base and the owners of country property with excellent spontaneous aeration necessary for ventilation of the components of the wooden structure. An excellently ventilated floor covered with laminate through the seams lasts longer and does not rot.

Despite the artificial origin of the laminated coating, its behavior during operation is not much different from the behavior of lumber. After all, its main element is made of MDF panels, chipboard, HDF and similar boards created by pressing wood products. The base of a laminate floor is an important characteristic that determines the scope of use of the material. In theory, laminate flooring is not recommended for installation in rooms where wet cleaning must be carried out regularly. It is allowed to arrange bedrooms, children's rooms, offices, and living rooms. However, flooring made with HDF is considered moisture resistant and can be laid on floors in hallways and even kitchens.

Note. For flooring in rooms with typical wet conditions, a laminated floor of class 33 on the wear resistance scale is suitable, but its cost rarely suits the owners of country houses.

Rules for preparing a wooden base for installation

There are general requirements for the characteristics of the surface being developed. According to the instructions of SNiP with the number 3.04.01-87 assigned to the normative collection, for laying laminated coverings:

• a leveled surface is required, the differences in relief of which do not exceed 2 mm within an area of ​​2 m²;
• allow a maximum slope of 4mm, evenly distributed over 2m in any direction.

You should not deviate from the instructions regulated by technical regulations, since failure to comply will damage the sensitive locking system. The grooves will become loose, the fragile thin ridges will break, the floor will not last long and will have to be re-laid.

You can, of course, partially change the elements if only a few boards are damaged, but the repair procedure will require a lot of effort. In such situations, the laminated panels are dismantled to the restoration site, then the broken elements are replaced and laid again in the reverse order. If the laminated planks are damaged multiple times, partial replacement is out of the question. At best, a few boards will be preserved, which can be used to arrange storage rooms, closets, and compact covered verandas.

Before laying laminate panels on a wooden subfloor, it is mandatory to inspect the base. The scope of work is determined, as a result of which the base, brought into full order, will be ready to install the covering on its reinforced “shoulders”.

Preparation actions depend on the degree of wear of the wooden structure:

• Old plank floor will have to be disassembled down to the support beam, because over the years of its long-term operation, sensitive natural organic matter could suffer from excess moisture or become infected with fungus. It is impossible to find out through the floorboards what the real condition is if the wooden floor is not the ceiling of a spacious basement. Those with a high underground are lucky. It will provide an opportunity to examine and repair ceiling parts without tedious dismantling. We carefully examine the entire list of structural elements. We cut out doubtful sections of beams and joists and replace them with new timber. The boards removed from the floor with a low subfloor, which inspire confidence in their reliability, are turned over with the unworn inside out, laid again, and the cracks filled with foam or repair compound. We replace old, worn-out boards without regret. We will “go through” the floorboards secured in the bottom using a scraping machine. All structural components of a long-established wooden floor must be carefully treated with antiseptic impregnation and fire retardant. Nowadays it is easy to buy a mastic that performs both functions that are significant for wood.
• New plank floor There is also no need to scrupulously diagnose it, since it was built not so long ago and is probably covered with compounds that protect against putrefactive bacteria and fire. Therefore, preparing to lay laminate flooring on a newly constructed wooden floor will not take much time and labor effort from the contractor. We check the fasteners, change or repair loose fasteners, “sink” nails or screws a couple of mm into the floorboards. We foam or fill the cracks with wood glue, mixed in half with sawdust, and scrape if necessary.
• Floor with structural defects needs to be improved. It is very difficult to determine in advance the range of actions in such cases, because the situation can have a lot of different reasons. For example, if the floorboards sag, the joist system will need to be strengthened by additionally installing timber or replacing the boards with thicker material. It is often more profitable and easier to lay another row of boards of similar thickness on top, laid “cross” to the previous layer. The latter measure is acceptable if the additional subfloor, together with the laminate and underlay, does not take away too many cm, which are very necessary for a limited space, from the ceiling height.

You can level the rough wood base with plywood, GVLV, OSB sheets or by placing pieces of roofing felt under the joists, as well as glassine rolled into several layers. You can purchase a “constructor set” from Knauf with a full set of fasteners, supports and plywood sheets. The method is chosen based on economic considerations and ease of implementation.

Laying technology for laminated boards

We invite you to watch the thematic video:

It is impossible to cover the wooden rough base with vapor or waterproofing, it will interfere with ventilation. Condensation harmful to wood will accumulate under the insulation. But if nothing can break the burning desire to isolate, it is better to use a diffusion membrane.

Before laying, you will only need to lay the underlay; it is advisable to choose a natural material for this. For the sake of the safety of the wooden structure, it is worth forgetting about the high prices for cork and the bitumen-cork or bitumen-rubber pressed options created with its use. The thickness of this layer is selected based on the same parameter of the laminated panel. Typically, strips of 3mm underlay without overlaps are placed under an 8mm laminate. No permanent fastenings to the walls or to the base are needed, only gluing with tape in periodic dots or solid lines.

Note. The choice of direction for laying out laminated boards is influenced not so much by the preferences of the owners as by the direction of the existing floorboards. Laminate panels should lie across the boards. This means that the strips of substrate located under the coating need to be laid lengthwise.

Let’s assume that it has already been decided how we will lay the laminate panels, an elementary plan has been drawn out by hand in advance and a rational scheme has been selected. There is plenty of information about methods, rules and layout options on the website. Here are a couple of articles on the topic:

You can join the boards by gradually increasing the coverage of each piece separately or by joining pre-assembled rows. The preferred method is usually specified by the material manufacturer, and we examine the individual algorithm.

Actions of the installer when assembling a laminate floor piece by piece:

• Let's position ourselves in the starting corner, usually the corner farthest from the doorway, taking 4 panels with us. For two of them (1st and 3rd), planned for installation against the wall, you must first cut off the ridge. We do not touch the groove; it is always directed towards the stacker.
• Let us first outline the distance by which we will move the panels in adjacent rows in order to avoid cross intersections and thereby increase the reliability of the connections. The recommended offset for the offset is no less than 30 cm. We will shorten the second board by this amount.
• Using the method specified by the manufacturer, depending on the type of Click or Lock locking system, we join the 1st and 3rd panels, then attach a piece of the 2nd board to them, then the 4th uncut board.
• We move the assembled floor segment to the designated location, installing spacers approximately 1 cm thick between it and the adjacent walls. They will provide the clearance required for the laminate to move during thermal expansion.
• We extend the first row with the 5th board with a cut ridge, then extend the second strip of covering with the 6th.
• By analogy, we follow until the successful completion of laying the first two rows, not forgetting to cut off the ridge facing the wall. We cut the boards that complete both strips according to precisely measured distances. To snap the last ones into the rows of elements, we use a special mounting bracket.
• Next, we follow the course we have learned, only there is no need to trim the ridges anymore.
• We measure the panels of the last row at the place of installation and cut them taking into account the temperature indentation, attach them and snap them into place using a clamp.

Methods of bypassing pipes, methods of laying under radiators and arranging doorways correspond to standard rules for covering laminate floors.

Important point. In a large room, the temperature gap should be left not only along the walls. It is formed every 10 m, measured in width, and 8 m in length. The expansion joint is left in the opening along the axis of the closed door leaf. The gap after installation is closed with a profile made of plastic or aluminum.

Absolutely simple rules that explain how to economically lay a laminated flooring with your own hands will help you perfectly decorate your country and city property. And for those who did not intend to do the construction themselves, knowledge of the technology will help them competently control the actions of builders who are not always diligent.

Apartment renovation very often involves not only updating the interior decor, but also replacing the old flooring with a more modern one. Often, it is this stage of repair that becomes the most problematic. This issue is especially acute for owners of apartments in Khrushchev, where the floors are made of planks, because, if you look at it, there are not so many floor coverings that are compatible with laying on wood. In most cases, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden floor and then prepare for laying a new floor covering. But this procedure is not only lengthy, but also quite expensive, which pushes you to choose a coating that can be laid without removing your old plank floor. The best option in this case is considered to be laminate, which can be quickly and easily laid on any wooden base without resorting to the services of specialists. How to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor in an apartment will be discussed further.

To assess the feasibility of using a laminated flooring for laying on a wooden base, it is necessary to conduct a full diagnosis of the latter, because very often a wooden floorboard is susceptible to fungus or mold, the influence of external factors can lead to surface deformation, sagging and squeaks. Therefore, you should pay attention to the following points when checking the plank base to make sure whether laminate flooring can be laid on a wooden floor:

• dryness - this indicator should be given special attention, since rotting of the surface or fungal infection of the board will continue after the installation of the lamellas. Over time, this problem will spread to the installed laminate flooring;
• hardness - the strength of the wooden base under the laminate, another important factor that should not be ignored. This determines how long the new coating will last without flaws or deformation;
• evenness - care should also be taken to ensure that the surface of the previous coating is as even as possible. A deviation of 2 mm per 2 m length is allowed. Otherwise, the laminate lamellas will begin to creak, and the locking joints will be subject to deformation.

First you should assess the condition of the wooden covering

Detailed requirements for working with wooden floors for laying laminate can be found by watching the video. If the base still has flaws that can be eliminated, then laying the laminate on a wooden floor is done only after they have been eliminated.

If there is a large amount of damage to the plank floor, it is still recommended to completely dismantle it and then fill the area with a concrete screed.

How to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor

The technology for laying laminated slats on a plank base consists of several stages of preparatory work and laying the laminate itself directly. Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Then you should evaluate the condition of the base surface and, if necessary, work to eliminate any deficiencies identified on it. At the next stage, the selected substrate is laid, on which the selected type of laminate is laid.

When starting to prepare the necessary tools and materials, priority should be given to the choice of the laminate itself, which consists of several layers and can have a different base.

The laminated board has the following structure:

• overlay – a protective layer that prevents damage to the lamella from various types of influence: chemical, biological, mechanical;
• decorative layer – a material that sets the color design of the board, its pattern. The reliability of the layer is ensured by melamine impregnation;
• the base is a board made of high-density wood fiber materials. The quality of the panels and, accordingly, the scope of application depend on the density of the base. The basis can be MDF or chipboard;
• stabilizing layer - protects against moisture seepage, as it contains paraffin or melamine paper.

The type of laminate is selected depending on the scope of its application and the traffic flow of the room.

Materials required for use:

• laminate of the corresponding class from 31 to 33;
• substrate;
• fastening materials for wood;
• mastic;
• timber

To work you will need a set of the following tools:

• carpenter's hammer;
• square;
• mallet;
• ruler;
• jigsaw;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• nail puller;
• saw;
• level or level;
• hacksaw;
• perforator;
• brushes;
• screwdriver;
• scraping machine.

Having equipped yourself with this set of tools and materials, you can move on to the next stage of work.
Tools for laying laminate flooring

Diagnostics and repair of the base

Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of it and, if such a need arises, repairs, which you can do yourself. What points you should pay attention to and how to eliminate the identified shortcomings are discussed below:

• wooden floors are leaky or rotten. If the material is slightly damaged, you can lay the same board by simply turning it over. A place that has been affected by mold or rot must be treated with a special compound. If the tree has deeper damage, it is better to completely replace the plank area;
• If the floors creak or slightly sag in certain areas, it is necessary to additionally secure the boards using self-tapping screws or nails. Their caps should be driven deeply into the wooden surface. Otherwise, the metal that will protrude beyond the surface will damage the power tools used in the future - a scraper or electric planer;
• if the boards “play” under your feet along with the lags, then it is necessary to fix the lags themselves. To do this, the log is attached to the concrete base with an anchor, having previously drilled it;
• small gaps or cracks between the boards can be filled with putty. Large gaps can be eliminated using polyurethane foam;
• in case of significant subsidence of the floors or differences exceeding the norm, it is necessary to level the frame itself, having first removed the boardwalk. To eliminate minor shortcomings, support wedges are used that are attached to the logs. If there are significant height discrepancies, a complete replacement of the frame is necessary.

Preparing a wooden floor for repair
Scroll the floor in rows along the joists

Upon completion of all preparatory work, the base for laying laminated boards should be perfectly level, which can be checked using a level or level. If you place laminate flooring on an uneven wooden floor, a squeak will inevitably appear; the life of the floor covering will be short, since the load will cause the lamella locks to separate, thereby compromising the integrity of the surface.

Leveling a wooden floor

It was already mentioned above that the final result of the work directly depends on how smooth the base surface is. Therefore, the issue of leveling the plank base should be approached with all responsibility, because even a slight unevenness will subsequently cause creaks or breakages. There are several most common ways to level a surface on a wooden base.

Sanding a wooden floor - for minor unevenness of the wood base, you can use the sanding method or a similar surface treatment with an electric planer. This method will give the desired result with minor deviations from the standard height difference, which should not exceed 4-6 mm per 1 m2. For ease of use and easier control of grinding, it is better to divide the floor surface into several squares. Upon completion of all work, it is necessary to carry out a control check of the surface with a level and carefully remove sawdust and dust using a vacuum cleaner. If the irregularities occupy a small space, then you can get rid of them using sandpaper or by hand sanding. Floor sanding

Using a self-leveling mixture - if the floor is very old, and there is no desire or opportunity to replace it with a new one. Before pouring, preparatory work should be carried out: clear the floor of paint, fill voids, if any, with putty, prime the dried surface, mark the floor using a level, fill with the prepared mixture and level the surface.

Leveling a wooden floor with PVA-based putty. The use of such mixtures is more acceptable when working with large surfaces. Screeding with such mixtures consists of several successive stages: installing beacon strips, filling the gaps with wet sawdust and diluted mixture, checking the evenness of the surface, eliminating defects. If necessary, you can apply several additional layers of putty about 2 cm thick. A new layer is poured only on the dried previous surface, which requires time.
Sealing cracks and cracks with putty

Leveling with plywood - plywood under laminate on a wooden floor is the most common method of leveling the base plane. The grade of plywood should not be lower than 4/4, and the thickness should not be less than 15 mm. Plywood must be pre-impregnated with special compounds that will prevent rapid deterioration of the material. The final result will depend on these indicators. Laying plywood on a wooden floor under laminate begins with leveling the subfloor. To do this, wedges are installed under the logs. Then the plywood is laid with full horizontal control. If necessary, slats are placed under the chipboard sheets. The plywood is then attached to the frame base, joint to joint. You can learn more about the types of floor leveling with your own hands by watching the following video.
Leveling with plywood

Laying underlays under laminate

For additional leveling of the floor, a special waterproofing material is used - a substrate, which occupies the space between the sub-leveled floor and the laminate. The substrate can be laid using either an adhesive mixture or without additional fastening. In the second case, the joints are fixed with tape. The optimal material thickness is 3 mm. Wooden floors must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small particles before laying the underlay.
Rolled backing

The substrate serves the following purposes:

• enhancing heat and sound insulation;
• preventing friction of the laminate on wooden floors;
• increasing structural strength;
• additional leveling of the base layer.

For work, use a substrate made of the following materials:

• polyethylene foam;
• cork;
• bitumen sheet;
• polyurethane foam.

To cover a wooden base, it is better to use a substrate made of natural materials.
Bonding the substrate at the joints

Laying laminate

Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, it is necessary for the laminated slats to acclimatize. To do this, they are kept indoors for 2-3 days. This procedure helps the material come into balance with the environment.

Before you begin work on finishing the floor area, you need to figure out how to properly lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor and what determines the method of placing the slats. The laminate can be laid perpendicularly or parallel to the window, which is the light source, and diagonally. The diagonal placement of the slats contributes to the visual expansion of the room. Perpendicular masonry helps hide the joints.

Flooring work must begin with marking the floor, which is then used to measure the distance and calculate the number of boards to be laid. At this stage of work, it should be taken into account that the next laid laminated row must shift by a distance of at least half the length of the lamella, which creates the necessary mismatch of the seams. Let's look at how to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor using different installation methods. Laying the first row Displacement of seams
Laminate lock padding

Click system

A relatively new and easiest-to-install installation method, which allows you to quickly and efficiently lay slats on a wooden floor with your own hands. Laminate with Click lock begins to be laid from the far corner in rows, leaving a gap of 10 mm between the wall and the first row with the installation of special wedges. This procedure helps to avoid deformation of laminated panels due to temperature changes or changes in humidity in the room. The planks are joined by connecting the lamella locks at an angle of 20-30 degrees and then clicking them by pressing the surface with force. The Click connection system allows you to dismantle the required section of the floor for repair work.

Lock system

Laminates with this system begin to be laid from the corner located farthest from the doorway. The lamellas are joined horizontally. To do this, the tenon of one lamella is inserted into the groove of the already laid panel and tapped until completely fixed with a rubber cue. A long row with full fixation is pre-laid. It is necessary to create a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between the wall and the floor. To lay the last row, the lamella is cut to fill the entire remaining space. It is better to tap not at the end of the laminate, but to use a buffer block for this purpose. This way you can avoid damaging the surface of the laminated board and deforming the lock.

Glued laminate

The most labor-intensive method of laying laminated boards, therefore this type of laminate is very rare. This masonry method is relevant for rooms with high humidity. The panels are connected using the tongue and groove method. The ends of the laminated boards are coated with excess glue and combined with the locks of the next board. To lay the second row, the first lamella is cut in half, which allows you to start laying with offset seams. For better fixation of the flooring, you can use tape. The finished surface can be used after no less than 12 hours. Thematic video will allow you to clearly understand all the nuances of working with laminate.

Installation of skirting boards

Upon completion of the work on laying laminated panels, it is necessary to carry out the final stage - installation of skirting boards. In the case of a laminate floor, any type of baseboard must be attached to the wall. Dowels, screws or glue are suitable for this.

Skirting boards can be used in all types and modifications - wooden, flexible, plastic or MDF, solid or with a cable channel. The main rule in this case is the organic combination of the new floor with the baseboard.

As you can see, laying laminate flooring is not such a difficult task. It is important, before laying laminate flooring on an uneven floor, to carry out all the necessary work to eliminate the shortcomings, and then the coating will delight its owners for a long time with its strength and reliability.
Fastening the baseboard

Video about laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor

The video explains in detail how to install laminate flooring on a wooden floor.

The most convenient way to update a plank floor in an old house is to lay a new material on the surface. With linoleum it’s as easy as shelling pears, but what to do with piece linoleum, laid in a floating manner and requiring the most even base possible? Have you decided to renew the floor yourself and opted for laminate? Don't know how to install laminate flooring on a wooden floor? Learn the intricacies before starting installation, because during the repair process there may be a lot of pitfalls.

Laminate laid on a wooden base in compliance with the technology will serve no worse than other flooring

Wood is a rather capricious material, like most natural coatings. It is vulnerable to pests and rodents, is not moisture resistant and is highly flammable. Laying laminated boards on a wood base involves more difficulty than on other subsurfaces.

Manufacturers of laminated boards do not recommend laying the material on a natural wood subfloor. This is due to the property of wood to deform over time, which will also affect the evenness of the final floor.

However, if there is no particular choice and it is not possible to concrete the floor, be at least minimally careful.

1. First, make sure that the base is suitable for subsequent loads and is intact. It should not have chips, cracks or crevices.
2. If the flooring is made of untreated wood, inspect the boards for signs of fungus, rot, or pests.
3. The floorboards themselves should lie flat, without sagging.
4. Check that the boards are not rotten. The wood should not crumble in your hand, turning into dust.

Damaged boards and those adjacent to them must be replaced.

Important! If one of the above defects is present, the strips must be repaired or replaced.

If the floorboards have no flaws, but the entire covering is wobbly, simply secure the planks with any hardware. Laying the laminate ensures that the base is as level as possible and not shaky.

Why laminate? Advantages of the material

Every year, the increasing popularity of laminate is due to its attractive appearance, which can compete with many expensive materials. Drawings applied to the coating can imitate any texture without losing its decent appearance.

A wide range of laminate allows you to choose panels to suit any interior

Laminate is classified depending on its quality and performance capabilities. Thus, the most expensive and high-quality material belongs to the highest class.

However, in general, laminate of any classification has the following advantages:

• strength,
• easy care,
• environmental friendliness,
• wear resistance,
• long service life,
• ease of installation.

If laminate flooring is properly cared for, it can last for decades.

The minimum service life of laminate flooring with proper care is about 17 years. During use, the boards do not wear out, do not fade, and do not lose their aesthetic and performance qualities.

Prices for different types of laminate

Is it worth using?

Laminate is an affordable replacement for expensive parquet. It is actively used for renovation of residential and commercial premises. The material is easy to install, but is too demanding on the quality of the subfloor. It is possible to lay laminate on old floorboards, but only if a certain number of requirements are met, the main of which is high-quality and competent preparation of the base, including repair or replacement of damaged elements, leveling the base and the use of a substrate.

The piece strips have locks for connection and fixation in the desired position. No additional fastening to the base is required. Laminate flooring is laid loosely on a prepared wooden base, allowing it to “breathe”, contracting and expanding in accordance with changes in temperature and humidity levels.

If the laminate is statically and securely fixed on a wooden base, the floor may deform along with the rough base

The structural difference of laminate boards is that during installation the material does not need to be firmly fixed with glue or hardware.