Many people who decide to buy a citrus tree opt for. It attracts with its decorative appearance, fragrant smell and original shine of foliage. But in order for the plant to exist for a long period at home and bear fruit abundantly, you need to know how to properly care for indoor lemon.

- a capricious exotic plant. Its homeland is India. But there are no more wild representatives left in wildlife; man has completely domesticated all existing species cultures of this representative.

Features of the plant:

• Lemon is a low plant or large shrub with powerful branches covered with prickly needles. Young shoots at the growing point are distinguished by a violet-purple hue.
• The leaf is oblong, oval in shape with slightly prominent teeth. The leaves contain a large number of glands, which contain essential oil. When you touch the leaf plate, thanks to these glands, a characteristic aroma is felt. The change of greenery occurs gradually. Each leaf lives up to a maximum of 3 years, then dries out and dies.
• The flowers on the lemon are inconspicuous, reaching 4-5 cm. The inflorescences are white, visually representing a sparse chamomile. They are bisexual, located on a branch singly or in pairs. In some cases, there may be many more inflorescences in one place, but then some of them will have to be removed. This is necessary so that the developing fruits gain the maximum amount of nutrients.
• Each inflorescence lives from 7 to 9 weeks from the moment it appears until it fully opens. Flowering lasts a short period of time, but the process of fruit formation before it begins to ripen can take up to 230-250 days. If the fruit starts in the spring-summer period, in a warm room and with sufficient water, then the period of formation of a full-fledged lemon can be reduced to 180-210 days.
• If a tree produces flowers in the first year of its life, it is better to break them off and allow the plant to become saturated with nutrients and grow even more. In the second year, the bush will decide on its own how long the flowers will remain on its branches. It is recommended to leave flowering if the tree has 20 full leaves.
• Small lemons grow on the branches of a tree, both with the help of pollination and without it (parthenocarpic). In the latter case, the fruits differ only in the absence of seeds inside the slices of ripe lemon.
• The fruits are ovoid or slightly oblong in shape. Initially, the skin of the fruit has a rich green tone. As it ripens, the skin changes to light yellow. In addition, it has a distinct specific odor. The pulp inside the fruit is juicy, quite sour, divided into 10-14 equal segments.

Care has a great influence on the health of the tree. If the conditions are not proper, the plant begins to shed its leaves. Most often this process occurs in winter.

Whether there will be fragrant fruits next year depends on how many healthy leaves remain on the branches. Each fruit should have at least 10-15 green leaves. With less quantity, the plant will refuse to bear fruit.

Watering is very important for shrubs. Irrigation should be carried out with warm water or room temperature. At different times of the year, the application of nutrient moisture differs:

• From March to September inclusive, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly every day.
• From October to February, you need to reduce the amount of incoming moisture to once a week.

The main thing is that in no case should you allow the formation of swampy soil under the plant. This can lead to rotting of the root system. Then saving the bush will be either very difficult or impossible.

Some experienced gardeners who know thoroughly how to care for lemons can provoke a new round of flowering by canceling watering. This is how the owner of a lemon tree puts the plant into forced dormancy, practically reducing the supply of nutrient moisture. After being removed from rest, the shrub begins to bloom profusely and form sunny berries. But the main thing in this matter is not to overdo it. In the absence of liquid for a long time, the leaves of the shrub curl into tubes, dry out and fall off.

A prerequisite for active growth is feeding. It should be applied weekly in summer and in winter, if fruits are formed, then once a month. Fertilizers are applied after watering after 2 hours:

• – mullein and water are combined in proportions of 1:1, respectively, and infused for 1 week. Afterwards, the infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1:15 to parts of water and poured under the root, trying not to get on the foliage.
• Minerals - for this purpose, they are selected for citrus plants in a specialized store. It should be diluted according to the instructions.

Lighting for lemon is of great importance. It is best placed on the southeast side. But during the summer heat and scorching rays, it is recommended to shade it with a curtain or move it slightly into the shade. In winter, if there is not enough daylight, the shrubs need to be additionally illuminated with phytolamps, increasing the duration of daylight to the maximum required 12 hours.

In order for the tree to grow its branches evenly and not stretch to one side, it needs to be turned once a month, exposing one side or the other to the sun.

Lack of light threatens to stop the growth and development of foliage and new shoots. In addition, the taste of ripe fruits will be poor - they will be saturated with acid.

The temperature regime must be observed for the fruitful cultivation of shrubs:

• At the time of flowering, you need to maintain the temperature around +18 C. If the degrees are exceeded, the plant will shed its leaves and inflorescences.
• In spring you need to reduce the temperature to +12 C and place the plant on a glazed balcony. This will provoke good growth of leaf plates.
• In the winter months, the recommended temperature is +12..+17 C; additional lighting is needed for good growth.
• In summer, for better ripening, up to +22..+25 C is required.

If the temperature rises to +25 C, then you need to additionally spray the bush. If the humidity drops to a minimum, the plant will begin to shed its leaves and die. Spray in hot weather or if the bush is located next to a hot radiator at least 2-3 times a day.

Optimal humidity is 60-70%. These are the best requirements for the growth and development of homemade lemon.

Young plants up to 3 years old are recommended to be replanted once every 12 months. Replanting should be carried out using the transshipment method, so that the root system does not notice the replacement of the pot and the addition of new soil. During transshipment, part of the old soil is removed, from which all the nutrients have already been selected by the roots of the plant.

After the lemon has passed 3 years of age, it is transplanted once every 3 years. It is strictly forbidden to replant a flowering or fruiting plant. For replanting, fresh soil substrate should be prepared. It should be loose, well permeable to water and oxygen. The reaction must be neutral, otherwise the bush will not grow.

The following soil substrate composition is suitable for lemon:

• Sand - river.
• Turf connected to garden soil.
• Wood ash.
• Dung humus.

All ingredients should be taken in equal parts, and the ash should not be more than 1-2 tablespoons. By combining these components, you get an excellent nutritional mass that saturates the root system of the lemon tree with nutrients.

Pruning of fruit crops is most often carried out in the spring months, when the plant comes out of hibernation.

Long shoots are pruned so that up to 5 healthy powerful leaves remain. If pruning is done on time and correctly, a young lemon can form its first fruits already in 2-3 years of life. Many varieties of lemons produce flowers only on branches of the 4th-5th order. It is worth controlling the number of flowers, because if you leave everything, the tree may become exhausted when forming fruits.

Under unfavorable conditions, the lemon tree can be attacked by various pests and diseases. The following uninvited guests are identified that can harm the bush:

• Spider mite
• Shchitovka
• Aphid
• Thrips

Any pest, upon careful inspection, is easily visible on the bottom of the leaf and multiplies quickly and in large numbers. The fight is carried out after using a soap-ash solution. In addition, a regular shower helps a lot, with the leaves washed from both the top and bottom.

In addition, it is possible to become infected with diseases:

1. Infectious in nature - not always treatable. Often the affected bush is removed so as not to infect healthy species and burned to prevent disease.
2. Fungal diseases (mold, late blight, sooty fungus, root rot) - to eliminate the problem, the affected areas are removed, rotten roots are cut off. Fresh sections are treated with activated carbon or a solution of potassium permanganate. If necessary, chemical spraying is carried out.
3. Viral diseases (leaf mosaic, citrus canker, xylopsorosis, triteza) cannot be cured. The flowerpot is removed and burned.

More information can be found in the video:

Growing citrus plants at home is not a difficult process, but it must be approached correctly. Lemon, tangerine, orange and other exotic plants are, as a rule, natives of tropical latitudes, cultivated and adapted for home cultivation. In order for plants to form correctly, they need systematic feeding, correct watering and optimal crown lighting. About lighting for indoor lemons and tangerines we'll talk about it in this article.

The importance of lighting citrus plants

Light is one of the key factors for plants that allows them to exist. If there is too much or too little of it, it will immediately affect the nutrition of the plant, since they consume energy only in this way. Light allows the process of photosynthesis to occur, in which plant cells produce organic substances from inorganic compounds consumed by plant roots, which are used for the formation of leaves, shoot growth, flowering and fruiting. Too much light and too long a period of illumination disrupt the natural processes in leaf cells and negatively affect development.

How to assemble your own lighting from ordinary fluorescent lamps

Lighting of 5,000 lumens and a duration of twelve hours is considered optimal for citrus plants.

How to get the lighting right

The amount of light a home citrus plant receives is influenced by a very large number of factors.: this is the orientation of the windows in the direction of the world, their size, the number of floors of the house, and in general whether they have been washed or not.

And, since light is critically necessary for indoor lemons, tangerines, citrons and other citrus fruits, and in order for them to receive it in sufficient quantities, the habitat for them must be properly organized.

Lemon in its natural habitat receives a large amount of sunlight

Many people remember from school that the intensity of light decreases very much with distance from the light source, namely in proportion to the square of the distance to it. And if you don’t remember, then it’s okay, for us it only means that the plant needs to be placed as close to the window as possible. If, for example, a pot is taken at a distance of 3 meters from the window, then only 4% of the street light can reach it.
You should also know that the most dimly lit places in the house by street light are the corners. There you need to be very careful to ensure that there is enough light.

But there can be not only little light for a plant, but a lot, and in this case it becomes not a friend, but an enemy. Direct scorching rays of the sun, especially on the south side at noon, can cause serious burns on the leaves of both lemon and tangerine. If there is no other option where to place the pot, then you should shade your citrus by constructing an obstacle in the form of gauze or mesh that scatters direct rays. This should be seriously monitored; even an adult plant can die from extensive burns on the leaves. But if you suddenly didn’t check and the leaves are damaged, then you need to spray them with soft water, adding a small amount of the stimulant - Epin.

Special light for plants, usually has a one-time shade

In addition to leaves, plant roots can also be damaged by solar overheating, especially if they are grown in dark pots. In this case, it is recommended to shade the pot, for example with a sheet of cardboard, or place the plants below the level of the windowsill so that the crown is illuminated but the plant is not.
If everything is organized correctly, then spring and summer will become the most intense period for growth and development for the home citrus plant, since at this time it receives a sufficient amount of light and can fully grow, bloom and bear fruit. At the same time, do not forget about complex feeding so that he has something to eat.

Lemon lighting according to the seasons

But in autumn-summer period, when natural light decreases By reducing daylight hours in our natural area, it is also possible to allow the citrus plant to fully grow and develop. Indeed, in conditions of lack of light, plants begin to consume stored nutrients, which will significantly slow down the development and growth of the crop.

To maintain a homemade lemon, tangerine or other exotic plant, you should use artificial lighting. For this purpose, special lamps for plants with a specially selected spectrum are used. Typically, their light appears to be pink, but is actually a mixture of red and blue light.

If the plant is given additional light, it develops faster

Citrus plants require 5,000 lumens of illumination and a daylight period consisting of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of rest. Lumens can be measured either by pointing the camera at the surface of the sheet - many digital cameras have this function, or by installing a special application on your smartphone and measuring the illumination through the phone's camera. To control this, you should purchase a special timer, which will turn the light on and off at the right time.

In order for a plant to feel comfortable at home, it needs to create conditions close to those in which it lives in nature.

One of the key factors influencing plant development is light. It is absorbed by chlorophyll in the leaves and with the help of this energy, organic compounds are built in the plant from inorganic substances obtained by the root system. The most natural source of light for plants is the Sun.

In nature, plants receive energy for development from the Sun.

It should be borne in mind that houseplants are taken from different climatic zones, where the duration of daylight hours and the intensity of the sun's glow differs from that which you provide them at home. This can especially affect their health and well-being during the autumn and winter periods. This is where the question of additional lighting for plants arises.

We grow Pavlovsk lemons and Pavlovsk tangerines, so we will consider organizing artificial lighting for citrus plants. Light, time and spectrum of illumination, we make phytolamps with our own hands.

Natural lighting conditions for lemons

The homeland of lemons and tangerines is the tropics. At this latitude, daylight hours are 10 - 14 hours, depending on the time of year. Accordingly, this daylight hours are optimal for citrus crops.

In central Russia, daylight hours range from 7 to 17 hours. Plus in autumn and winter there are a lot of cloudy days. Lemons, as light-loving plants, clearly do not have enough light.

Reminder on signs of lack of light

Signs of lack of light can be seen by the young leaves, their color becomes paler, their size decreases, and the stem becomes elongated.

You can send the plant to rest in the autumn-winter period, providing it with a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius, then it will not need a large amount of light. But in standard apartment conditions this is difficult to achieve.

In order to achieve growth and good development of homemade lemons and tangerines in autumn and winter, it is advisable to supplement them with light for 12 hours a day, creating conditions close to those in which they find themselves in natural conditions.

Required lighting for citrus fruits

In addition to the duration of illumination, we also need to take into account the power of the lamps with which we illuminate the plants. Insufficient lamp power will not lead to optimal illumination; excessive lamp power will also slow down the growth and development of the crown of lemons and tangerines.

Citrus plants require illumination on the leaves of 6000 - 7800 lux- this is the power of light radiation (luminous flux) in relation to the illuminated area. That is, it characterizes the light that actually reached the leaves of the plants. We can approximately measure the intensity by installing the Luxmeter or similar application on our phone and conclude whether there is enough light for the lemon.

The luminous flux itself is measured in Lumens and characterizes the intensity of the glow of the lamp itself. This is a characteristic of the light that the selected lamp emits. It depends on the choice of lamp and is indicated in its characteristics.

In order for the lamp to shine, electrical energy is supplied to it, the lamp's consumption of this energy is measured in Watts (W). This value is also indicated on the lamp.
It is also obvious that having lamps with the same glow intensity, but located at different distances from the plant, creates different illumination. Moreover, as the lamp moves away from the plant, the illumination drops very quickly - we increase the distance by 2 times, the illumination drops by 4 times.

Signs of excess light in a plant - everything should be in moderation

Also, if we take different lamps, then the power consumption in watts and the luminous flux that the lamp emits will be different. The less watt a lamp consumes, giving a greater luminous flux, the more profitable it is to use it - the less you pay for light.
I would like to note that often the light that seems bright to our eyes can be dim and completely insufficient for plants; we perceive illumination very subjectively with the help of our eyes.

With northern windows or windows shaded by the foliage of street trees, lighting for citrus plants is simply necessary for good development. Otherwise, you will be faced with constant loss of leaves from lemons and tangerines, slow and suppressed growth of shoots, and the citrus plant will be on the verge of survival. The likelihood of flowering and fruiting of lemons will be greatly reduced, and if they all do bloom, it will be a very heavy load on them.

Spectrum of light for plants

A very important characteristic of light for indoor plants is the spectrum. In nature, the source of light for plants is the Sun. We perceive the light that falls from it as white. The light that we see indoors, emitted by various home lamps, is also white, but of a different shade. This is determined by what it consists of.

White light is a mixture of all colors

The light we perceive as white is actually a mixture of all the colors of the rainbow. Our brain does not know how to perceive light separately by the colors of which it consists and always produces an average value, and the amount of each color determines the shade of white that we see. The light temperature is often indicated on lamps; the higher its value, the visually bluer the emitted light will appear, and the lower, the more yellow.

In fact, natural sunlight for plants, broken down into all colors and intensity, looks like this:

Spectrum of sunlight

But if you go further and look at how the leaves of a plant perceive light depending on its color, you will notice that plants absorb red and blue colors very well and almost not absorb green. This could be easily guessed, since we see the color of the leaves as green and this means that almost all of it is reflected from them.
What is the conclusion from this? - the energy that is spent by the lamp to create a green spectrum is completely wasted and is almost not used by plants. Accordingly, to illuminate homemade lemons, we need lamps that will have good radiation in the blue and red spectrum and almost none in the green spectrum.

If we go even further and remember that light is a wave and each color has its own wavelength and take more accurate measurements, we will see that the peaks of light perception by plants are at wavelengths of 445 Nm and 660 Nm. This corresponds to dark red and blue-violet colors.

Light absorption by plant leaves depending on wavelength

The red part of the spectrum affects the flowering of the plant and the ripening of fruits, it is the main source of energy for photosynthesis; if it is in excess, then the plants stretch out too quickly.

Blue color stimulates plant cell division, under its influence the stem thickens. It is a signal for the plant in which direction to turn and direct the growth of the stem.

Scientific minds have long noticed this fact, and have designed lamps with a narrow specialization - illumination of plants for their effective growth.

Types of phytolamps for illuminating citrus plants

For home use, the most suitable lamps are fluorescent lamps and LED lamps. We use both types of phytolamps to grow lemons and tangerines and will tell you about our experience. They can also be used as lamps for seedlings. We don’t even consider incandescent lamps due to their low efficiency and strong heating.

Fluorescent lamps

Fluorescent lamps in our case can be divided into two types: household lamps and specialized lamps for plants. The difference can be understood by the markings of the lamp itself and visually by the glow of the lamp.

Household lamps made to illuminate the room with light that is as comfortable as possible for the human eye. Depending on the light temperature, their glow will be white or slightly yellowish.

Spectrum of household fluorescent lamps

From the spectrum graph you can see that household lamps in the red band of the spectrum do not emit enough light. They can be used, but as an additional light source for plants. They emit a lot of light in the green spectrum, which is almost not used by plants, so they cannot be called effective and economical.

Specialized fluorescent lamps for plants emit more light in the blue and red zones of the spectrum assimilated by plants, having a dip in the green. Their light does not seem bright to our eyes, purple-pink and unpleasant, but for plants this is just the thing!

Spectrum of a fluorescent lamp for plants

We partially use exactly these lamps at home. We use the Camelion FT8-36W/BIO lamp model, they consume 36 W of power, giving a luminous flux of 1400 lm. They have the best characteristics of the lamps known to us in terms of price/quality ratio. The spectrum is close to that needed by our lemons and tangerines. If you know something better and cheaper, then please write to us in the comments and we’ll try them.

Fluorescent phytolamp for plants

To get the necessary illumination for citrus fruits at 6000-7800 Lux from these lamps, we install 2 lamps at a height of 20 cm above the plants on an area of ​​1.2 meters by 0.6 meters. Plants feel great in winter and give good growth.

LED bulbs

Another class of plant lamps that we use to illuminate lemons are LED lamps. They can be divided into two groups:

1. Lamps from groups of individual LEDs of various narrow spectrums;
2. Lamps assembled from identical plant-specific LEDs with a wide spectrum.

Narrow spectrum LED plant lamps

Classic LED, unlike fluorescent lamps, has a narrow emission spectrum. The idea for biolamps made from such LEDs is that we place in it a set of LEDs that emit only at those spectral frequencies that are most effective for plants. These, as we wrote above, peaks at wavelengths of 445 Nm and 660 Nm, respectively dark red and blue-violet, and sometimes other colors are mixed.

It seems to be an ideal situation - peaks of light absorption by plants overlap narrow peaks of LED emission. It would seem that the idyll, lemons and tangerines should grow well and prosper... But! The peaks are very narrow and if the LEDs are of even a slightly different spectrum, then their radiation will not be well absorbed by plants.

And here, as luck would have it, there are two factors: first, LEDs with this particular spectrum are more difficult and more expensive to produce than LEDs with a spectrum that is very close, but not the one that is suitable for plants. Their colors are also blue and red, you can’t tell the difference by eye, and they are cheaper. The second factor is that manufacturers really like to save money and often install these LEDs, which are practically useless for plants. They shine, but there’s no point.

Fiolamp for plants made from narrow spectrum LEDs

To summarize, it is a good way to illuminate plants and is economical if you have a spectrometer on hand that can accurately measure the spectrum of lamps upon purchase.

Broad spectrum LEDs for plants

Another class of LEDs, in which the capabilities of the LED are expanded by adding a phosphor, which expands the spectrum of the LED. With one LED you can get the entire spectrum of light that plants need.

Characteristics of LED for plants with a full spectrum of radiation

We use such wide-spectrum LED lamps to illuminate lemon and tangerine seedlings. Its disadvantage is its high cost, but we got out of the situation by assembling them ourselves from separate components ordered in China. It turns out significantly cheaper.

Full spectrum LED for plants 3W

We separately order from China on the Aliexpress website 3W full-spectrum LEDs for plants (in fact they give 2W), a driver for them (power supply) for 10 LEDs, and also buy an aluminum beam from a hardware store as a heat sink and hot-melt adhesive. We mount all this on a beam, and we get an inexpensive, highly efficient and economical lamp for lemons and seedlings.

DIY full spectrum LED lamp for plants

If we return to the characteristics, then with a power consumption of 20 watts, it provides illumination to plants, like a 36-watt fluorescent lamp in the spectrum required by plants. Now in winter we illuminate some of the lemons with LED lamps, some with fluorescent lamps, and under both lamps the plants feel good, the difference is not noticeable.

Installing a time relay

There is another trick to lighting plants - using a time relay. Sold in electrical goods and aquarium stores. We set a weekly backlight schedule: days, on and off times. No need to remember what time to turn it on and off. A very convenient thing - set it once and forget it.

Automatic timer will turn the light on and off at the right time

Behavior of seedlings at the beginning of illumination

Also from personal observation: if your lemons previously received insufficient light, and then you immediately installed powerful lighting, then some plants may develop leaves that are larger than standard ones. This is not scary, the next growth will produce normal leaves. If possible, then you need to increase the illumination gradually, but if this is not done, then it’s okay.

Summary on the topic of artificial lighting for house plants

Pavlovsk lemons, as light-loving plants, need additional lighting in the autumn-winter period, especially if they live on servery or shaded windows. The most energy-efficient and effective method for illuminating indoor lemons and tangerines at home is to use specialized fluorescent lamps for plants labeled Bio, Flora or similar. Phytolamps made from LEDs are also suitable for illumination if you are sure that their spectrum meets the needs of the plants. Such lamps are expensive; the best option is to assemble them yourself. Well, to automate the processes of turning lamps on and off, use a time relay.

Proper lighting will provide the plant with everything necessary for the development of fruit ripening

We will make Pavlovsk Lemons great again!

Buy lamps for plants (phytolamps sodium, LED, fluorescent, ultraviolet, gas discharge and others) in the PhytoTechnology online store at competitive prices! Plants require appropriate lamps, consult a company consultant and find out which phytolamp is suitable for you, then place an order and the very next day your vegetation will delight you with growth and flowering! Managers will professionally select a suitable phyto-lamp for your needs, taking into account the location of your garden (the type of mounting of the lamp depends on this, or maybe a phyto-floor lamp is suitable for you), and depending on the lighting area, we will help you decide on the power (70W, 100W. , 150W, 250W, 400W).

Why do we need lamps for plants (phyto lamps) and how to choose the most effective one?

Various modifications and designs intended for lighting plants are usually called phytolamps, by adding two words phyto (from Greek) plants and lamps. The difference between phytolamps and incandescent lamps or fluorescent lamps is that phytolamps generate photons in a narrow color range, which is necessary to create favorable artificial conditions similar to natural ones.

It was impossible to produce plants on an industrial scale in the winter-autumn period until recently. The first experiments on this topic were carried out by the Russian botanist Andrei Sergeevich Famintsy in 1868; he used a kerosene lamp to artificially grow plants. Everything changed with the invention of phytolamps; now, with the creation of appropriate conditions (heat, humidity) and main lighting, almost any plants can be grown all year round, regardless of the weather and time of year. Experiments have proven that the blue spectrum stimulates plant growth, and the red spectrum stimulates fruit ripening. At home, it is easy to grow seedlings and prepare strong seedlings for growing plants in country or garden beds. In addition, it has become possible to grow exotic plants, such as lemon or the Indian Tulsi plant, at home!

Well, we figured out why we need lamps for plants, and now let’s move on to each of them separately.

Energy saving lamps for plants or housekeepers

The Internet is replete with experts who advise using housekeepers instead of phytolamps for plants and seedlings, but their effectiveness is easily disputed by comparison with fluorescent or sodium lamps. The light output of housekeepers is low, which is ineffective for plants; such lighting is used as an additional and not so powerful resource, so we will not pay much attention to it.

Fluorescent lamps for plants

This type of phytolamp was the first to be used due to the lack of analogues. As we have already read above, the first lamps were incandescent and fluorescent lamps; incandescent lamps are not suitable for artificial lighting of plants due to the luminescence spectrum (it is far from solar) and the ineffective use of efficiency. 95% of the efficiency is spent on heat recovery, which is suitable for heating, but not for supplementary lighting of plants.

Fluorescent phytolamps win in the fight against incandescent lamps, the first advantage is economical energy consumption, the second is the proximity of the light flux to solar radiation, pay attention not to light, but to radiation, which is harmful to people. Fluorescent lamps are also called fluorescent lamps.

Fluorescent phytolamps of the Osram Flora type are created in such a way that they do not create ultraviolet and infrared radiation harmful to green plant cells (not for humans), but at the same time generate photons in the red and blue spectrum of light.

It is worth noting that the cost is not high compared to other phytolamps for plants and seedlings. That's probably all the advantages of this lamp.

The main disadvantage of fluorescent lamps for plants is that they are harmful to the health of people and animals.

The emission spectrum of these lamps greatly affects vision and causes headaches with frequent use; in addition, some people experience allergic reactions on the skin in the form of a rash. These phytolamps are used in industry, observing safety standards (robe, hat and safety glasses). An important disadvantage is their fragility compared to other phytolamps (8,000 - 10,000 hours of combustion) and a decrease in efficiency as they age; the luminous flux decreases (is lost).

Light-emitting diode (LED) lamps (phytolamps) for plants

LED lamps for plants are a separate issue due to incredible PR on the Internet. If you are reading this article, then you know that when you go to most online stores you will be offered to buy LED phytolamps. In the PhytoTechnology online store, LED phytolights are presented, since we offer a wide range of products for plant growers and, as they say, everyone has their own opinion. Let's start with the pros, the advantage of LEDs is their long service life and low energy consumption (cost-effectiveness).

As for the effectiveness of LED lamps for plants (phytolamps, modules and spotlights), it certainly exists, but it is worth noting that LED phytolamps are different, and if you expect a miraculous effect from an LED bulb purchased for 1,500 rubles in Leroy Merlin, OBI or Eldorado, and in our store we hasten to disappoint you this will not happen, but we would like to. However, it’s worth turning to logic and thinking, would large manufacturers really begin to purchase expensive phytolights, phytolamps and structures with higher energy consumption than LEDs for growing argocultures? Isn’t it easier to buy a lot of LED light bulbs and save on the cost of phytolamps and electricity bills? No, it’s not easier if it doesn’t give any effect, it’s money thrown away, so experiments are being conducted that are designed to identify the pros and cons of certain phytolamps for plants. So smoothly we moved from the pros to the cons, and the last, not unimportant, disadvantage of LED lamps for plants is their harm to human health. LED phytolamps essentially imitate fluorescent lamps and shine in the blue and red spectrum, and as we remember, this kind of radiation negatively affects humans and requires special conditions for use. It is not recommended for an unprotected person with exposed areas of the body and eyes to be near these phytolamps.

Sodium lamps for plants

Sodium phytolamps are gas-discharge lamps; visually, the luminous flux appears in yellow-orange shades, very reminiscent of sunlight. Today we can safely say that sodium phytolamps are the most effective, economical, and popular among industrialists. We are being bullied with stories about miraculous LED lamps. But smart people can easily find information on forums and on manufacturers’ websites, on YouTube and other places of information about how effective and popular they are. Some of the most attentive ones will have a question: - Stop, what about the blue and red spectrum, which is so important for plants, but here yellow is effective for you too! It's simple, the fact is that sodium lamps, like LED and fluorescent lamps, have a blue and red light spectrum, but it is not visible to the human eye. Another advantage of sodium lamps for plants is their long service life, not the same as that of LEDs, but 25,000 hours of burning is not short, 4-6 years.

In addition, during operation there is no decrease in light output and the lamp does not lose efficiency over time, such as a fluorescent one. Well, perhaps the last and not unimportant advantage of sodium lamps is that they are harmless to people and animals, this is important for people who grow plants at home and not in greenhouses. In Russia, well-known manufacturers of sodium and metal halide lamps are the companies Reflax and Ekolum.

Metal halide phytolamps

Metal halide lamps for plants, like sodium lamps, belong to the category of gas discharge lamps. The main difference between metal halides and other gas-discharge lamps is the addition of metal halide to enhance the light output effect. Such lamps have a color temperature from 3,000 to 6,000 K. The color rendering index of such lamps ranges from 65 to 85. They are available with ceramic and quartz burners. The abbreviations for such lamps are DRI, DRIZ, DRIKZ.

Information from the PhytoTechnology store for buyers of plant lamps

We sell products presented on the international market for crop production products, and describe in detail the characteristics of each of them.

To get the effect of phytolamps, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with information about the types of lamps for plants and information about a specific plant, the method and conditions of its cultivation.

Contact only special sources so that you are not misinformed. Answers-Mail will not work; it is better to look for information in textbooks or on high-quality Internet resources! For this purpose, this article was created about lamps for plants, for a brief introduction to the matter and an overview of phytolamps on the market and here today.

What types of lamps are there and which ones are suitable for plants?

We need to start with the history of lamps as such and their evolution, the first incandescent lamps were invented in the early 1800s, many inventors tried to make them as durable as possible but failed.

Information varies in sources, so we will focus on the Russian engineer and inventor Alexander Nikolaevich Lodygin, who in 1872 invented the most durable lamp at that time, which burned for half an hour. After the air began to be pumped out of the flask, the lamp became more durable, and in 1873 these lamps caught fire in the lampposts of St. Petersburg.

Incandescent lamps emit light from a red-hot metal filament, the metal being platinum. And everyone knows Thomas Edison. a little later, a strong bamboo (charcoal) thread began to be used, but before achieving success, he had to conduct 6,000 experiments, which allowed the lamps to burn for hundreds of hours.

The next breakthrough was fluorescent lamps, but at the time of their invention, they, like incandescent lamps, were not so durable; Peter Cooper Hewitt was the first to propose the use of mercury vapor, but we will talk about mercury lamps a little later. It was only in 1927 that Edmund Germer and his colleagues Friedrich Meyer and Hans Spanner coated an ultraviolet lamp with a layer of phosphor, and it turned out that such a lamp was capable of emitting natural and bright light, and mass sales of such lamps began in 1938.

After which LED lamps were invented, the description occurs in this order based on mass sales, the first mention of diodes was described in 1907 by a Briton, and they were invented in 1962.

Now let's move directly to the plants and what kind of lamps are produced directly for them.

What are the light requirements of plants?

Each plant has its own light requirements, depending on what kind of plant it is and what its usual habitat is. Our task is to create conditions similar to natural ones for a specific type of plant. As the plant grows, it needs more and more light, but how to solve this problem with only one phytolamp in stock? To fully illuminate the plants, it must be periodically rotated 15-20 degrees in front of the phytolamp, since in natural conditions this is done by the sun moving across the sky and covering the maximum area of ​​the plant. With a lack of lighting, plants stop growing, regardless of various types of feeding and other conditions. Also, do not forget about the darkness; in no case should the plant be illuminated around the clock, unless we are talking about seedlings during the first weeks; in other cases, it is important to observe the dark and light phytoperiod, turn the plant lamp on and off, depending on the the vegetative stage of the plant and its requirements for light.

Which lamps are best for plants?

Where to buy lamps for plants and how much do they cost?

The listed options for phytolamps for plants are presented in the PhytoTechnology online store. From us you can buy lamps for plants of any modification: fluorescent, LED, sodium and metal halide. We deliver to regions of the Russian Federation using methods convenient for you.

Now about the price. Prices are indicated on the website, and as you noticed, you can buy a lamp for plants for both 900 rubles and 80,000 rubles. Why such a difference in price? Well, firstly, not every phytolamp works autonomously, meaning you can’t screw any plant lamp into a standard E27 socket and enjoy its glow; for most phytolamps to work, component parts are needed, such as a lamp, a choke or starting device, a mount, reflectors and others. Among other things, most lamps for plants are of an unpresentable appearance; until recently, they were used primarily only by industrialists. What does it mean? This means that the structures are bulky, rough soldering or welding is visible, electrical wires are sticking out, unpolished materials, a rough industrial look. This is not suitable for everyone’s home if the interior is made in some style, or you have an expensive winter garden. But in our online store there are solutions for any clients, you only need to know what you want and tell us about it, and we will offer the best option for solving problems.

A homemade lemon tree is a godsend for many gardeners. Not every plant can simultaneously delight with decorative foliage, fragrant flowers, growing and already ripe fruits. The advantage of homemade lemons is their absolute naturalness. And although it is not always possible to get a harvest quickly, indoor citruses grow tastier and juicier than store-bought ones. If a gardener wants to harvest a decent harvest, he must take a responsible approach to growing homemade lemons: how to care for the plant, when to mold and fertilize - everyone who has purchased citrus should know this.

The citrus guest comes from subtropical regions, so it does not take root well in open ground in cold winters. However, growing it indoors can be successful. To do this, you need to initially organize proper care for your homemade lemon: maintain constant air and soil humidity, provide a sufficient amount of light and heat.

In flower shops or nurseries it is not difficult to purchase seeds or seedlings of varieties that are adapted to unfavorable conditions. In the wild, the plant can reach impressive sizes, and for growing in a room, samples no higher than 1.5-2 m are taken. During the winter, the foliage of the subtropical guest does not fall off, which is why it is called evergreen. Leaf blades last 2-3 years, so they must be protected. - a solid competitor for lemon, it also boasts elegant decoration.

In indoor conditions, flowering is possible twice a year: in early spring and late autumn.

The best varieties of citrus trees for the home are dwarfs and semi-dwarfs:

Dwarf varieties are not very productive; they are grown mainly for decorative purposes. Taller trees can reward the grower with large fruits in large quantities.

How to care for indoor citrus?

Caring for a lemon tree involves constant monitoring of humidity, temperature and lighting. It needs the correct selection of soil composition and its looseness. You should not ignore the formation of the bush. The gardener must initially know how to prune a lemon so that it develops harmoniously and produces more fragrant fruit.

• Lighting and temperature conditions in summer and winter

South windows and other places with good lighting are suitable for growing. Lemon prefers bright light and long daylight hours. It is better to shade young specimens from the midday sun, as immature leaves will receive serious burns. When organizing cypress and variegated ficus trees, they also take this rule into account, despite the fact that these plants are light-loving.

The temperature in the room where the lemon is kept should be moderately warm. Sudden changes are contraindicated, so during winter ventilation the pot must be removed from the windowsill without changing the location of the crown to the light. In summer, the plant can be sent to the garden or to an open balcony.

The crown develops better if it is not often turned on different sides towards the light.

Caring for lemons in winter is moderate. The room should be cooler - from 10 to 14°C. The ideal placement option is an insulated loggia. If the tree has not entered the dormant phase, then the temperature is maintained at about +18°C, and it is necessary to extend the daylight hours to 12 hours using a lamp.

• Watering lemon without mistakes

Depending on the air temperature, change the amount and frequency of water application. In hot weather, moisture is added daily. The water is taken warm, standing for at least 7-8 hours. From September to March, one watering per week will be sufficient. After each application of liquid, the soil must be loosened so that air can flow freely to the roots. The plant does not tolerate both drought and waterlogging. You need to focus on the volume of the pot and temperature conditions.

The smaller the pot and the looser the soil, the faster it dries out. In rooms with central heating it is necessary to water more and more often. Moisten so that the liquid penetrates through the drainage hole into the pan. Excess water is removed after 20 minutes. In this way, it will be possible to wet the entire earthen lump, and not just its upper part.

Lemon care involves spraying in hot weather. The foliage is sprayed 2-3 times a week. Spraying is carried out both in summer and in winter, when heating radiators are operating at full capacity. Placing a tray of water or a humidifier next to the tree will help increase air humidity. If you have the practice of caring for this plant, then you can use wild plants to obtain a bountiful harvest.

When caring for a lemon in a pot, it is important not to forget about fertilizing. During the growing season, feed every 10 days. Fertilizers are suitable both mineral for citrus fruits and organic, for example mullein solution. Before applying fertilizer, water the soil 2-3 hours before applying it. This will protect the root system from burns. In winter, fertilizers will also be useful, but the frequency of their application is once a month. If the tree looks healthy, it blooms and produces fruits, then you can refrain from applying fertilizers for a while.

Rules for transplanting and pruning

When transplanting citrus, a drainage layer of broken brick, expanded clay or coarse sand must be laid on the bottom of the box. Any container must have drainage holes to drain water. Liquid stagnation should not be allowed. The soil in the pot should be loose, without lumps. The reaction is neutral or slightly acidic. Lemon grows well in soil of average nutritional value: humus, sand and leaf soil are taken in equal proportions. The container for transplantation needs to be 3-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.

Pruning is necessary to approach the flowering period. The shoots are also shortened in order to create a neat crown. It is pinched, removing the apical bud. There should be at least 4-5 leaves left on the shoot. The lemon tree is pruned in the spring at the beginning of flowering.

Pruning homemade lemons plays an important role. If you ignore it, the tree will not produce enough fruit or will not bloom at all. If in one year the lemon has formed much more ovaries than usual, then the weakest branches with buds must be removed. Too many fruits will deplete the plant.

As soon as the lemon peel turns yellow, the lemons need to be collected. If you are late with collection, they will become too sour and dense.

Video about pruning rules.

How to increase productivity?

The first harvest of indoor lemon depends on the method of propagation. If a tree is grown from a seed, then you should not wait for fruits before 5-7 years. Sometimes at least a decade passes before fruiting begins. With proper care, a bush obtained from a cutting begins to bear fruit within 2-3 years.

Secrets of a bountiful harvest:

Growing problems

What difficulties can you encounter when growing? There are several problems:

1. Falling of leaves and buds occurs when there is a lack of moisture, drying out of the soil, or excessive dry air. Leaf loss can also be caused by waterlogging. It is recommended to replant the tree by removing the roots with a clod of earth and first drying them on a sheet of newspaper.
2. The leaves become pale with a lack of lighting and a minimum amount of nutrients.
3. Lack of flowering - a cramped or oversized pot is to blame.
4. The tips of the leaf blades turn brown due to lack of moisture and dry air.

To prevent fungal diseases, the soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate every 2 years.

If no mistakes were made at all stages of cultivation, then a few years later the gardener can be content with delicious lemon slices for tea for a year. In addition to being a fragrant and tonic supplement, they will be useful during the cold season.