After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.

The best predecessors of main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;

For onions on turnips - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression), yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Among herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is undesirable to place them together.
It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle.
Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars.
It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, they suffer less and grow in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and various types of lettuce. Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soybean protects corn from bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - beets and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed).
By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but avoid grapevines. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by bud mites if onions are planted between the bushes and left in the ground for the winter.

Soybean is friendly with all crops.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.

Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, and reduces the incidence of gray rot in carnations.

Apple - raspberry

Stevia (Honey Herb) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in a flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable;

Wormwood has a bad effect on peas;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes;
Tansy has a bad effect on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight);
Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted next to each other (damage from the gooseberry moth);

Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Radish's enemy is hyssop;

The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, and corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - its vapors suffocate many cultivated plants (apple trees, corn);

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel inhibits almost all cultivated plants.

Effect of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigold has a bad effect on beans, wormwood has a bad effect on beans and peas, and tansy has a bad effect on kale;

Let's think together why mixed plantings are needed? This is when different crops grow not in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed together.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest there are not only different types of trees, but also shrubs, grasses, and mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We, too, can create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted “aliens” here too, but they won’t cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do this? The answer is simple - use the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors and plan the area to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large masses, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Better at the border

It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of different ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is room for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there is a shady and sunny side. I usually plant aromatic plants in a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the plant sequence: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate rows, checking the crop compatibility table. However, we must remember that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, you will need a creative approach and your observations.

Culture compatibility

First of all, select a main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then choose a neighbor that has a beneficial effect on the main plant. In our case, it could be lettuce or spinach - they will produce a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect the greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce can be sown again after harvesting. It is worth planting aromatic herbs nearby that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they don’t drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of crop ripening. If you harvest one crop early, it is worth finding a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched and green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, you should pay attention to reducing competition between them. Plants with deep root systems will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those that like light partial shade from the sun.

Only the neighbors' water needs should be similar.

Plants with deep root systems:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radishes, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species taste better: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your plot of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint planting in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through the row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, and potatoes with beans. And such nursery plants as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Communal" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting celery root between the rows. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives white butterflies away from the cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the former was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the top leaves of the cabbage closed, and my celery was in the lower tier, in dense shade.

I looked after this “communal” bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery became “sad” day by day.

I realized that I had made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then you had to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting enough of this. It never formed powerful rhizomes; we had to be content with only greenery.

Celery planted together with early cabbage is another matter! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut off, and the celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself: any plants first need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the crops planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are the best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests from another and vice versa. After the carrots have sprouted, I plant onion seedlings into the gaps found.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. The bed of early radishes can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes directly between the rows of carrots. Carrots sprout slowly, the seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot in any way shade the fast-growing radishes. This way I get a double harvest from one bed. I sow the seeds of early ripening dill into peas: after a while its tendrils will catch on the dill stems.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the potato plot. At first it is a little stunted in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and manages to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on the greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbors.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing their neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not remember the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby influence each other. They release various substances into the environment that their neighbors “like” or “dislike.” For example, early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes feel good next to each other.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Mustard leaves, marigolds, calendula, and basil heal the soil and help all crops. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants randomly (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden bed looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I add several phacelia flowers to the cucumbers - and they attract pollinating insects with their smell. So simply the plot turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or in nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase resistance to disease and even affect the taste of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, and the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Romance of onions and melons

I have my own method, proven over the years, of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! In a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning Moon), I plant onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home I sow watermelon and melon seeds for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the onion bed, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and illness, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and an infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water using a drip irrigation system. In mid-summer I harvest the ripened bulbs. After the ovary appears on the vines of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

A wide variety of vegetable crops are grown on the dacha plot. They belong to different families, and their planting dates do not coincide. In small gardens, compact cultivation is used. How to ensure the compatibility of vegetable crops in one bed in a limited space?

Good predecessors

Every year before the start of the gardening season, you should carefully consider the placement of plants in the garden. It is best to create a planting plan that will be useful for the coming season. Different ones can oppress each other or contribute to the spread of dangerous diseases. However, compatible plants, on the contrary, will promote better development and protect against pests. To avoid mistakes, you must follow certain rules.

The area for compacted planting provides additional nutrition for the increased volume of plants. To do this, the soil must be sufficiently fertile and clean. At the beginning of the season, crop rotation is planned. Plants that were grown last year should not have the same pathogens and pests. At the same time, they must have a beneficial effect on each other, so the compatibility of plants in the garden is important. The best predecessor table is a guide to start planning.

An analysis of last year's plantings is carried out. The right choice will help you avoid many unpleasant moments when growing vegetables.

Predecessor table

When cultivating any crops, crop rotation should be observed. The information presented in the table will help you plan the site correctly.

Repeatedly growing a plant in one place is also undesirable.

Layout

When cultivating vegetable crops, information is needed about their mutual influence. To avoid an unfavorable neighborhood, you need to know exactly the characteristics of vegetable crops. Acceptable growing conditions for plants that will be combined must be similar. This will help to accurately plan the entire area for the garden and achieve successful cultivation of various plants in compacted beds. In addition, certain crops not only have a beneficial effect, but also repel pests. The compatibility of plants in the garden is quite important.

A detailed list of representatives of different families that coexist well in the garden helps to accurately determine their placement. Equally important is information about plants with which joint cultivation is undesirable. They will suppress vegetable crops growing nearby.

Plant compatibility table

For the normal development of vegetables and obtaining a high-quality harvest, they need to create favorable conditions. Proper agricultural technology combined with a successful combination of plants will help solve many problems. The data given in the table will be useful when placing plants on the site.

Successful combinations

When planning sowings, you should take into account the time it takes to develop the usable area, the height and compatibility of plants in the garden. Carrots and onions go well together. They are placed in rows. Alternate three rows of carrots with four rows of onions. These plants have a beneficial effect on each other and at the same time protect against pests. A trio of plants will be successful. These are late white cabbage, head lettuce and spinach, which are used to compact garden beds. You can name other examples of combinations of vegetables that have good compatibility between plants in the garden. The table will help everyone find the best pair. For example, early cabbage and celery, which have different planting dates. At the beginning of spring, seedlings of the first vegetable crop are planted. The distance when planting early cabbage is maintained at least fifty centimeters. Three weeks later, celery is added. Plants with different ripening periods go very well together. in the garden in this case is based on the fact that early ripening crops are placed along the edge of the beds of plants whose ripening period is longer. For example, a combination of planting tomatoes with several rows of dill for greens and onions for feathers, as well as spinach, will not interfere with the longer development of tomato bushes. The classic combination is corn and string beans. In this example, one plant serves as a trellis for another.

Lighthouse cultures

Many plants have a long period of seed germination. To designate rows earlier, fast-germinating and early-ripening plants are used. They allow soil cultivation and agrotechnical activities to begin earlier. An example is the joint sowing of radishes and carrots. By the time it takes for the root crop to ripen, the early and early-ripening vegetable has time to ripen and free up space. In addition to radishes, lettuce, spinach and dill are used. They are sown along the edge of a bed of cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers.

Amulets of vegetable plantings

Aromatic herbs are not forgotten either. These plants are fragrant, creating an amazing atmosphere around. Vegetables located nearby become more stable under the influence of volatile substances. They are able to repel pests. Medicinal plants such as valerian and yarrow, planted along the edges of the beds, will be an excellent preventive measure that increases resistance to diseases. Lettuce and spinach are plants that can enhance the activity of neighbors. They will be good companions and have excellent plant compatibility in the garden. The table of successful crops confirms this statement. Lettuce and spinach are often recommended for joint cultivation with other vegetable crops.

Unfavorable neighborhood

Most plants get along well in the limited space of beds. When placing them, the compatibility of plants in the garden is taken into account. A table of successful combinations of vegetable crops will help to distribute them correctly. However, we should not forget about plants that will have a depressing effect on others. These include fennel and wormwood.

For these vegetable crops, it is necessary to allocate a separate corner of the garden, which will provide privacy.

The compatibility of vegetables in the garden is a much more important question than it might seem at first glance. Among plants, as among people, there are friends and enemies. The quality of the harvest and, in general, the vital activity of certain plants may depend on knowledge of these nuances. Let’s take a closer look at what to plant next to what.

Mixed plantings

A special science, allelopathy, deals with the problems of interaction between plants in the garden. Any plant releases a variety of substances into the soil and air that have a positive or negative effect on its “neighbors.” The useful and harmful juxtaposition of vegetables in the beds is presented in the table below. In the meantime, let's look at the advantages of mixed planting technology:

• saves space in the garden;
• the soil is less depleted, and there is no need for annual crop rotation;
• less effort is required to treat pests, since some plants themselves repel them;
• when planting vegetables together in beds, almost no additional fertilizer is required;
• The quality of the harvest and the taste of the fruits increase (for example, beans can make radishes tastier, and mint can make white cabbage), as well as the amount of vitamins and sugars in them.

Rules to follow when organizing combined plantings of vegetable crops:

1. The width of each bed should exceed a meter. This will be necessary in the future for ease of plant care.
2. The bed is divided into several sections. Crops that take a long time to grow and ripen are planted in the central one. These are peppers, cabbage, tomatoes. When the season comes, they will already occupy a good half of the ridge.
3. Those types of crops that ripen quickly are planted from the edges. Mostly greens, but also strawberries and grapes.

An example of a properly organized garden bed for joint plantings:

Lettuce grows on the edge, carrots or radishes alternate with marjoram in the second row, and onions in the third. The 4th and 5th row correspond to the 1st and 2nd. Cucumbers are planted in the middle.

You can come up with a lot of similar schemes, it all depends on the required plants and on your attentiveness in matters of their combination.

Neighborhood of vegetables in the beds

Good neighbors are radishes, beans, lettuce, mint, dill, spinach. But tomatoes and cucumbers do not go together at all, since they require different amounts of moisture. Tomatoes also need a lot of fresh air, while cucumbers prefer the greenhouse effect. In general, tomatoes cannot be combined with almost any garden crops. The exceptions are radishes, asparagus, garlic, and parsley.

But basil is almost universal and can benefit any plant.

Cabbage is not recommended to be planted next to beets, carrots, beans, and pumpkin will not be happy with potatoes. It is better to plant it with relatives - zucchini, squash or melons. Otherwise, the harvest will be significantly worse.

Beneficial neighbors of beets are cabbage, zucchini, and legumes.

Peas go well with corn, lettuce and cabbage, but they don’t do well if their neighbors in the garden are zucchini, onions, and beans.

The ideal neighbors of dill are potatoes and parsley, and cucumbers are eggplants, onions, and lettuce.

Potatoes are usually planted separately, away from other crops. But it should be noted that horseradish will help protect it from bedbugs, and beans/peas or other legumes will saturate the soil with nitrogen, which will have a positive effect on the quantity and quality of the harvest. They will also repel Colorado potato beetles.

Every plant needs pollinators, which is why planting flowers near your vegetables is a good idea. In addition to flowers, marjoram, mint, and lemon balm are also attractive to pollinating insects. These herbs will always be useful on the farm for culinary or medicinal purposes, and at the same time the yield of your vegetable crops will increase significantly. In addition, they wonderfully decorate a summer cottage.

Another important point: the presence of earthworms in the soil. They loosen the soil, which increases the amount of oxygen in it. Worms are attracted to crops such as onions, valerian, and chicory.

Spinach is a very convenient option for joint plantings because it releases a lot of saponin into the soil - a substance that promotes root growth and improves access to water and nutrients. Different types of primrose have the same property.

Compatibility table for vegetables in garden beds

More detailed data can be found in the following tables:

Examples of bad neighborhoods not included in the tables

When organizing joint plantings of vegetables in the garden, make sure that the gooseberries are kept away from the currants, otherwise the moth, a pest dangerous to berries, will actively multiply.

A pear planted near a cherry tree will often get sick. The same situation is observed when planting any type of currant next to cherries or cherries. And juniper planted under a pear will most likely infect it with fungal infections.

The apple tree also loses from the proximity of cherries, as well as apricots, barberries, and lilacs. In general, cherries react aggressively to any planting under their crown, especially trees.

To prevent the appearance of a pest called strawberry-raspberry weevil, do not plant strawberries and raspberries next to each other. But almost any other plants next to raspberries, on the contrary, feel better because they saturate the earth with oxygen.

It is noteworthy that it is not advisable to plant birch in your garden - it has a very strong root system that absorbs huge amounts of water, taking it away from other plants. The same can be said about maple and spruce.

Plants that can repel pests:

Celery and shag resist cabbage fly, onion is an excellent remedy against spider mites. Wormwood and garlic are enemies of cruciferous flea beetles, and tomatoes are not to the liking of flea beetles and flea beetles. Garlic is also effective in repelling aphids and also helps the soil accumulate sulfur.

Vegetable neighborhood rules for greenhouses

If vegetable compatibility is important to you when planting in a greenhouse, keep the following factors in mind:

• in greenhouses, vegetables grow faster, and overall the harvest is better;
• in order to properly plant vegetables in a garden bed in a greenhouse, you need to adhere to the same principles as in open ground;
• before planting, you need to carefully develop a layout of the beds;
• You also need to take into account the cardinal directions - cucumbers and tomatoes grow better on the sunny southern side.

The compatibility of plants in a garden bed in a greenhouse is closely related to the season. There are two types of greenhouse mixed planting. In the first, greens are grown in early spring, in the second, various crops are cultivated throughout the season. In other words, greens are planted first, which ripen very quickly, then they are collected and tomatoes or cucumbers are planted in the same place.

In a greenhouse, it is advisable to plant those plants that require similar conditions of humidity and temperature. Cucumbers provide abundant shade, so shade-loving crops can be placed next to them. Tomatoes will do well with white cabbage.

Mixed plantings of vegetables will help you get a good harvest even in difficult conditions - poor soil, unsuitable climate. You can combine mixed beds with compacted seeding technology to improve the result. In a word, creating the vegetable garden of your dreams is in your hands, if you correctly use modern developments. Both beginners and experienced gardeners can learn something new from mixed planting technology.

Compatibility and incompatibility of plants in the garden (trees, shrubs, grapes, strawberries, garden crops)

Go straight to the table ->

I studied very carefully the issue of plant compatibility in the garden through scientific work and in practice. I will share my conclusions with you.

Some plants in the garden don't get along with each other. Reasons for plant incompatibility there are the following:

1) the roots of neighboring plants lie at the same depth and prevent each other from growing,
2) one neighboring plant releases substances that are harmful and unpleasant for another neighboring plant,
3) neighboring plants simultaneously consume nutrients (some category), which is why both lack them,
4) one plant attracts or provides “shelter” for pests of a neighboring plant.
There are other reasons.

Respectively plants can be good friends , whose roots are located at different levels, which release substances useful to their neighbors, do not compete for nutrients. You also need to take into account the watering regime. It happens that one plant needs abundant watering, while another prefers to receive watering only a few times a year. It is clear that it is very undesirable to plant them next to each other. Well, you need to think about the shadow. If one plant grows and shields its neighbor from the desired sun, then such a neighbor will not be able to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
That is why it is very advisable to take into account which plants in the garden can be placed next to each other and which cannot.
But here we must warn you that the various compatibility tables that you find on the Internet are often not based on scientific information. The fact is that you won’t find serious, in-depth research on this topic during the day. Who will lead them in the absence of funding? So all these tables are often compiled based on the observations of individual gardeners and their exchange of experience.

Eat a few more nuances to consider when placing plants in the garden, they are not related to compatibility and incompatibility, but they will certainly be useful to you when planning your garden.

1) We try not to plant those shrubs under the trees on which the berries ripen during the period when the trees need to be sprayed. So that the poison does not get on the fruits of the bush. This approach applies not only to shrubs, but also to other “edible” plants. And not every poison needed to protect a tree should be allowed to its short-growing neighbors.

2) If our neighbor has good healthy pears near our fence, then perhaps we will also plant pears on his side so that they pollinate each other. Pollinators are also important to consider.

I will give a table in which I have summarized information about the compatibility and incompatibility of the following plants in the garden: apple tree, pear, quince, cherry, sweet cherry, plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, rowan, viburnum, walnut, hazelnut, hawthorn, serviceberry, black currant , red currant, golden currant, gooseberry, raspberry, blackberry, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, barberry, dogwood, rose hip, grapes, actinidia, Chinese lemongrass, strawberry. From it you will learn what can or even should be planted with in the garden, and what cannot be planted with.

Many gardeners note that it is good to plant herbs in the garden: anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, and tarragon. Their odorous substances repel many pests and inhibit the spread of diseases. But beware of eating such garden plants after they have been sprayed with pesticides