Construction of a cellar involves not only the construction of walls and ceilings, but also proper ventilation, high-quality waterproofing and internal layout. If you make the entrance incorrectly or save on usable space, using the cellar will be inconvenient and it will be too difficult to remodel. Therefore, before you build a cellar with your own hands, you should think through everything down to the smallest detail.

A standard cellar is a rectangular room with a low ceiling. For entry, a hatch with a movable ladder or concrete steps are installed. The first option is cheaper, but not very convenient, since it is quite difficult to descend into the cellar along the crossbars and even with a load. Concrete or brick steps are much more reliable, and they are not at all difficult to make.

Already at the design stage, you should think about materials for ceilings. The width of the cellar directly depends on this. Some use ready-made concrete slabs as flooring, others pour and reinforce them themselves directly above the cellar, others use multi-layer floors made of timber, layers of waterproofing, boards and insulation.

Basic cellar parameters

1. The width of the pit should not exceed 4 m, taking into account the thickness of the masonry walls and the outer layer of waterproofing.
2. The length of the cellar depends on the needs of the owner, usually it is 4 m.
3. The height of the ceilings should be within 1.8-2 m. With good insulation, there is no need to dig deep; two meters is enough to ensure that the room does not freeze in winter and does not heat up in summer.

To save a little when arranging the stairs, when digging a pit you need to leave a 1 m wide area and remove the earth at a slope, forming steps with a shovel. But this option is only suitable for dense, hard soil, otherwise, under the weight of the brick, the soil will begin to settle and the stairs will collapse.

Another important point is wall cladding. Most often they are made of brick or concrete, pouring mortar between the walls of the pit and the formwork. Both methods are quite within the capabilities of a novice master, the main thing is to think through everything in advance. For brickwork you need brick and mortar, for a monolithic wall you need to prepare material for formwork and spacers.

Video - Cellar. Theory and drawings

When all the details are thought out, the materials are prepared, you can start working. A layer of turf is removed from the selected area and markings are made using pegs, taking into account the additional space for waterproofing.

During the work you will need:

• bayonet and picking shovel;
• roulette;
• building level;
• crushed stone;
• roofing felt;
• bitumen mastic;
• concrete mortar M 100;
• tamper

Step 1. Digging a pit

According to the markings, they begin to dig a hole. At the location of the future staircase, steps are immediately formed, choosing soil at a slope. The steps should be 1.5 times wider than in the project, because the thickness of the riser is added to the tread. If the staircase to the cellar will be mounted separately, the pit is dug evenly around the entire perimeter. When the depth of the pit reaches 2 meters, the walls and base are leveled, lumps of soil are removed and construction of the base begins.

Step 2. Pouring the base

Fine crushed stone is poured into a 3 cm layer at the bottom of the pit, leveled, and the base is compacted using a tamper. Prepare a solution: take 3 parts sand to 4 parts crushed stone and add 1 part M400 cement. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 6 cm.

Step 3: Waterproof the floor

When the concrete dries, mark the walls of the cellar and lay 2 layers of roofing material on the floor, coating them with bitumen mastic. The edges of the roofing material should extend beyond the perimeter of the marking by 10 cm; strips of material are laid overlapping, shifting the seams of the top layer by several centimeters.

Construction of brick walls

Step 1. Laying the first rows

To lay the walls of a cellar, you do not need to have the skills of a mason. All irregularities and defects in the masonry will be hidden under a layer of plaster. You can take used bricks, as long as they are red fired. White brick and cinder block are not recommended for these purposes.

The first row is laid out according to the markings on a sand-cement mortar. The second row is staggered with ligation of the seams. Excess mortar is immediately removed with a trowel, and every three rows are checked with a building level. A space of about 50 cm wide is left between the masonry and the walls of the pit.

Step 2. Installation of ventilation holes

You can lay out no more than 5 rows at a time, otherwise the solution will not withstand the load and the walls will “float”. It takes 8-10 hours to harden the masonry. In the 3rd or 4th row from the floor, a hole is made between the bricks for the ventilation pipe. The second hole should be left in the opposite corner of the cellar at a height of 1.6-1.7 m from the floor. The dimensions of the ventilation holes depend on the diameter of the pipe; usually these are square niches 25x25 cm.

Step 3. Installation of mortgages for fastening shelves

To fasten the shelves, metal corners or profile pipes with thick walls are embedded in the masonry. They should extend beyond the outer wall by about 10-15 cm, and on the inside they should correspond to the width of the shelves. The distance between the corners is about 70 cm horizontally and about the same vertically. This method is quite convenient and reliable, and also saves money on the manufacture of individual racks.

Step 4. External waterproofing

When the walls are completely laid out, ventilation pipes are inserted and secured into the holes, brought to the top and temporarily fixed with wire to the top row. The outside walls are coated with liquid bitumen and roofing felt is fixed. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, the joints are covered with bitumen and pressed firmly. After this, the space between the walls of the pit and the masonry is filled with clay and compacted every half meter, not reaching the top by about 40 cm.

Concrete walls

Metal rods are driven into the walls of the pit along the entire perimeter, leaving 15 cm on the outside. Shields are knocked down from boards, chipboard or plywood to the size of the walls, covered with polyethylene and installed flush against the reinforcement. The formwork is reinforced with wooden beams and concrete is poured. It is advisable to fill the entire wall at once, then the surface will be the most durable. After a day, the formwork is removed and the wall is allowed to dry thoroughly.

Floor installation

If reinforced concrete slabs are used for floors, the installation method is quite simple. The trench along the perimeter of the cellar is filled with stone, reinforced with a lattice of rods and filled with concrete. The slabs are laid after the concrete has hardened; they must completely cover the pit and foundation around the cellar. The joints between the slabs are sealed with thick mortar.

If there are no slabs, you can make a monolithic floor differently, using beams, steel channels, beams or pipes.

Step 1. Laying beams

In the last two rows of masonry, holes are left on opposite walls for floor beams, the length of which should be 1 m greater than the width of the cellar. Wooden beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm are impregnated with waste machine oil and dried. Then they are wrapped in roofing felt, which is secured with staplers.

Pipes or channels do not need such treatment. The prepared beams are laid on the walls, leaving an opening for the entrance, and then the trench and the edges of the beams are poured with concrete. The protruding edges of the ventilation pipes are covered to prevent the solution from getting inside.

Step 2. Overlap device

The bottom of the beams is sheathed with boards 25 mm thick, and the top is covered with roofing felt. Expanded clay is poured between the beams or 2-3 layers of mineral wool are laid, everything is covered with plastic film, then again with roofing felt, and the joints are coated with mastic. Soil or clay is poured on top.

If the beams are metal, you can attach a chain-link mesh with small cells between them, lay reinforcement and metal scraps on it, and install a removable board made of plywood or chipboard covered with film underneath. The shield is supported by a 100x100 mm beam in several places so that the structure can withstand the weight of the concrete solution. They fill everything with concrete and let it sit for several days, then remove the shield, remove the excess mortar that has leaked around the edges, and let the slab stand well.

Video - Building a cellar yourself

Interior work

The next stage is installing the stairs. If a base of soil was left, a brick is laid on top, placing it on the edge vertically and flat on the tread. The side walls are also lined with brick, all gaps and joints are rubbed with mortar. You can replace the brick with a reinforcement frame and pour the steps out of concrete; you can also install a light metal staircase.

Next, the walls, floor and ceiling are tidied up. If the wall masonry is smooth and neat, it is enough to cover the surface with two layers of lime. Uneven masonry is pre-plastered with cement-sand mortar and then treated with lime. No additional wall covering is required, although various finishes are possible. The ceiling is checked for the absence of cracks and gaps, if necessary, the joints along the walls are sealed and also whitewashed.

On the floor, roofing felt is covered with a cement screed 3-4 cm thick. In some cases, plank floors are installed on top of the screed or covered with linoleum, but this is completely optional. Finally, shelves are attached or racks made of boards treated with an antiseptic are installed. The shelving should accommodate everything you need so that nothing stands on the floor. This will ensure good preservation of vegetables and make cleaning the room easier. Do not block the space in front of the ventilation openings with shelves and drawers, otherwise the air exchange will be disrupted and condensation will appear in the cellar.

The door to the cellar is made of durable boards 3 cm thick and is additionally insulated from the inside. In cold regions where frosts reach 30 degrees, it is recommended to install another door at the bottom of the stairs. The top floors must also be carefully insulated with a layer of soil, sawdust, clay and other available materials. Ventilation pipes should be covered with special caps with a protective insect net.

Video - How to build a cellar with your own hands

Cellars can be recessed (underground), semi-recessed (semi-underground) and above ground. As additional types, we can distinguish the simplest storage facilities - piles, glaciers, pits, etc. We will tell you about the main types of cellars and introduce you to drawings and descriptions of construction.

Underground cellars

First, we will consider the construction of in-ground cellars, that is, those located completely underground. They can only be built in places where groundwater is at great depth.

Earth cellar construction technology

This type has a very simple design, but despite this, it has excellent performance properties. This cellar technology requires minimal material costs; mainly local materials are used for their construction. In Fig. The structure of an earthen cellar is shown.

It can be built if the groundwater lies at a depth of at least 2-2.5 m, since the height of such a cellar from the base to the ceiling is 1.8 m. If the groundwater is located a little higher, it is permissible and recommended to make a backfill so that raise the bottom of the cellar.

The pit is dug in such a way that its walls have a slight slope - in this case they will crumble less.

At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to lay compacted crushed stone, impregnated with hot bitumen, in a layer 5 cm thick, which will serve as the base of the cellar floor. This is done in order to eliminate capillary humidification. Next, an adobe floor with the addition of small crushed bricks, 8~10 cm thick, is installed.

Earthen cellar: 1. - bins; 2. - drainage ditch; 3. - ventilation pipe; 4. - shelves; 5. - adobe floor.

The walls of the pit are usually lined with boards, slabs or wattle, especially in sandy soil, it’s clear why. It is best to make a removable covering so that in the summer you can disassemble it and dry it in the sun. This will increase its service life and, consequently, improve the quality of stored products.

The ceiling is made of poles or podtovarnik, which are covered with clay-straw lubricant on top and covered with earth for the purpose of thermal insulation. The thickness of the earthen layer is approximately 0.3-0.4 m. The roof is made gable, lowered to the surface of the earth so that the overhangs overlap the pit by at least 50 cm on all sides. The material for the roof can be hewn slab, clay straw, branches, reeds and any other local material. In case of severe frosts, the roof can be insulated with peat, dry leaves, etc. The roof ridge is made from edged boards. Strips of roofing felt or roofing felt are placed under the ridge.

The design provides for one ventilation pipe made of boards tightly fitted to each other. The inside of the cellar is equipped with bins and shelves.

It is convenient when the bins are placed on one side of the aisle, and the shelves on the other.

The bins have a lattice floor for ventilation. The optimal height of bins is 1 m. The shelves are placed at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other in height. The final touch is a drainage ditch around the cellar about 50 cm deep, and the cellar is ready for use.

Technology for building a cellar from asbestos-cement sheets

Such a cellar can only be built in dry soils. It is made not only quadrangular, but six-, octagonal and decagonal.

Construction takes only a few days.

Asbestos cement sheets or slabs have standard dimensions: 1200 X 900 X 10 mm, so the area of ​​the cellar can be calculated based on the number of its sides. The hexagonal cellar will have an area of ​​4.3 square meters. m, octagonal - 5.7 sq. m, decagonal -7.8 sq. m.

Asbestos-cement sheets can be connected to each other using metal corners measuring 40 X 40 mm (50 X 50 mm) or strip iron.

Fastening is carried out using bolts. The sheets are cut with a hacksaw.

The construction of the cellar begins, as usual, with a foundation pit. After the excavation is ready, the lower row of asbestos-cement slabs is installed. They are connected to each other using angles on bolts and nuts. The result is a closed structure that has the shape of a polygon in plan.

Cellar made of asbestos-cement sheets: 1. - asbestos-cement sheet; 2. - corner; 3. - bolt; 4. - shelf; 5. - cross member; 6. - hatch.

The base is made of concrete. While the concrete has not yet hardened, the assembled asbestos-cement walls are carefully and evenly pressed into the concrete base of the floor to a depth of about 10 cm. Then they are left for 5-7 days so that the concrete hardens and the lower tier of the walls is firmly fixed, after which the next slabs are attached to it tiers. The number and height of the slabs depend on the selected cellar depth. The seams between the slabs are rubbed with cement mortar.

If the floor of the cellar is earthen, then a foundation is made around the perimeter of the cellar under the lower tier of asbestos-cement slabs. The depth of the foundation is 30 cm, width - 40 cm. The outside walls are covered with a layer of hot bitumen in two stages. The surfaces are pre-cleaned and primed.

The ceiling is also made of asbestos-cement sheets: two channels are laid parallel to each other and the cellar axis passing through the middles of these opposite sheets on the ends of the corners of two opposite slabs. Floor sheets are attached to the channels. They should also be primed and covered with two layers of hot bitumen.

The entrance hole in the form of a hatch is located in the ceiling of the cellar between two channels. It is made double from sheet steel 1.5-2 mm thick, and the strapping is made from angle steel. Some known heat-insulating material is placed between the hatch covers. The hatch does not have to be made by welding; it can be assembled using bolts and nuts. The dimensions of the hatch are 60 X 60 or 75 x 75 cm. A metal or wooden ladder is attached to the hatch.

Ventilation is provided by two pipes. One is brought higher out, the second is installed so that it is located 5-10 cm above the ceiling. The diameter of the pipes is about 10 cm. The lower pipe is sealed with a metal mesh with small cells to protect against rodents entering the cellar. The inside of the walls is covered with water-based paint or lime mortar. Along the inner perimeter of the cellar, you can make shelves on brackets from metal corners. They are cut and bent to obtain the desired shape. The cellar can be divided into cells; the same asbestos-cement sheets will serve as partitions.

If the cellar is not located under the house, but stands separately on the site, a canopy is placed over it to protect it from precipitation, and along the perimeter there is a blind area made of clay or concrete. The blind area has a slope in the direction opposite to the cellar at an angle of 2-5°.

Technology for building a cellar with a cellar

A cellar with a cellar, or, as they also say, with a cellar, is a time-tested structure, quite often found in individual construction. It consists of two parts: aboveground (cellar) and underground (cellar itself).

The cellar is buried approximately 2 m underground, so it is always cool in the summer and much warmer in the winter than outside. In addition, the cellar creates an additional screen from the penetration of precipitation and the effects of low and high temperatures.

The cellar is usually used as additional temporary storage for vegetables and as a storage room for gardening tools, lumber, etc.

The cellar is designed for long-term use, so its walls are constructed from durable materials, from monolithic concrete 20-30 cm thick, stone or brick (walls 25-30 cm thick), from slabs 6-8 cm thick, logs with a diameter of 12-18 cm. All materials are reliably insulated. The method of waterproofing is determined by the specific conditions of the construction site.

The space between the walls of the cellar and the walls of the pit is called the sinus. This space is filled with clay, filling it in layers of 20-30 cm and compacting the layers, that is, they make a side clay castle.

If a cellar is built in damp soil, then pits are usually made along its perimeter - small depressions for collecting water, 20-30 cm deep. As water accumulates, it must be scooped out of the pits.

Cellar with cellar: a - general view of the cellar; b - cellar plan; c - section; 1 - insulation; 2 - whitewashing; 3 - blind area; 4 - hot bitumen coating (2 mm); 5 - clay castle; 6 - rubble concrete.

The base is made multi-layered in two steps. The bottom of the pit should be leveled and compacted tightly. For drainage purposes, a layer of crushed stone 8-10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom prepared in this way, on which a layer of crumpled clay 2-3 cm thick is laid. Oily clay is more suitable for this purpose. The clay layer should also be leveled and compacted. Then a concrete pour with a thickness of 10 cm is made. After the concrete has set, and this will take 10-15 days, a cement-sand screed 5 cm thick is placed on the concrete preparation and smoothed with a steel trowel. The overlap is made durable. To insulate the ceiling, expanded clay, crushed brick (pre-sifted) are most often used, or moss can be used. Thermal insulation materials are laid on clay grease 3 cm thick. The cellar is equipped with a hatch measuring 70 x 70 cm. A ladder is installed under the hatch. For greater stability and ease of use, it is recommended to install the ladder at an angle.

Cellar walls can be made from a variety of materials. The most commonly used are brick, shell rock, stone; cellar walls made of wood (sanded slab about 5 cm thick), adobe, etc. are acceptable. The roof of the cellar is usually gable, lightweight.

An important rule: to protect the walls from precipitation, wide overhangs are made.

The roof is made of solid plank sheathing covered with roofing felt or asbestos-cement sheets.

On the outside of the walls of the cellar, a clay-crushed stone blind area is made at least 1-1.2 m wide with a slope of 1:10. The walls of the cellar are buried by 50-70 cm. The door for the cellar is made of thick, tightly fitted boards at least 4-5 cm thick.

A few more words about ventilation. In order to create a favorable temperature and humidity regime, such a cellar must have a two-channel ventilation pipe. Only in this case can we expect effective air exchange.

Cellar in the garage: construction technology

A cellar in a garage saves land space; in an urban environment, this is an almost unique opportunity to have one. A small comment for motorists: such a cellar can be adapted into an inspection hole.

Its depth is usually 1.8-1.9 m.

If the soil is moist and the groundwater level is quite high, then the walls of the cellar are made of monolithic concrete of increased density and water resistance.

In dry soils, lightweight walls can be made. For this purpose, standard asbestos-cement corrugated sheets of roofing slate are suitable, which are laid out in at least two layers and attached to the wooden frame with screws. This is done to make the walls stronger. The sheets are glued together with bitumen mastic or cement-casein glue.

Waterproofing work involves coating the enclosing structures twice with hot bitumen. Surfaces are pre-primed.

Ventilation is provided either by a ventilation pipe with two channels, or by a hatch, which, in addition to the usual lid, is equipped with a grille through which air circulates.

In particularly cold temperatures, the hatch can be insulated by covering the grille with an old cotton blanket or something similar.

Stone cellar construction technology

A stone cellar is the most reliable and durable storage for various types of agricultural products. Previously, such cellars were built in every peasant yard, which is why they are sometimes called peasant cellars. There are known cases of such cellars being used for more than a hundred years without any major repairs. This is the extent to which the art of the masters was developed! Let's try to build a stone cellar, which will also serve our grandchildren.

The best material for construction is flagstone - a limestone common in the central black earth regions, where it is cheap and available. It is laid on a clay mortar, to which no sand is added, but chaff and a small amount of lime are added. The solution is so strong that not every nail can be driven into it.

The durability of the building will be guaranteed if it is installed in a dry place where groundwater does not reach the floor level by at least 70 cm.

There is one important condition that must be met to obtain the desired result - construction can only be done in the dry season, so that the open pit does not get wet or be washed away by rain. A clay castle is installed on all sides of the walls and foundation for waterproofing. The thickness of the clay castle is 20-25 cm. The floor in the stone cellar is made of adobe with compacted crushed stone or pieces and fragments of quarry stone ranging in size from 2 to 8 cm.

The ceiling is made in the form of a vault. To lay the vault, you need a special wooden formwork with circles. This formwork has an arched shape convex upward and rests on circles - specially cut boards the length of a span.

The arch is laid out simultaneously on both sides from the edges to the center. The masonry must have an odd number of stones (bricks). In the center, the masonry is completed by the so-called keystone, which wedges the vault, which ensures strength and reliability of the entire structure. The main thing in this matter is the ability to calculate the design of the vault and lay the keystone with a steady hand. If you want to tilt the bricks, you need to place small flat stones under them.

From the outside, the vaulted ceiling is filled with thick lime mortar, a layer of clay grease 8 cm thick is placed on top, then wood ash along with coals 10 cm thick for thermal insulation, and on top of everything - clay or dry earth. To go down to the cellar you need a staircase with stone steps, but, in extreme cases, made of durable lumber. In addition to the usual cellar with earth embankment, you can make a cellar above the stone cellar, which will provide additional convenience for use. The cellar is laid out from the same flagstone on a clay mortar. Thus, it will reliably protect the cellar and become an additional storage room for food and equipment. On all sides of the cellars, shallow drainage grooves are installed to protect against the accumulation and penetration of melt and rainwater, as well as a wide sandy or clay-crushed stone blind area. Modern stone cellars are built according to the same model, only the material is red burnt brick. The ceiling is made of slabs; thermal insulation is provided by clay grease and layers of earth on top.

Brick cellar: a - section; b - cellar plan; 1 - wall; 2 - concrete; 3 - soil compacted with crushed stone; 4 - waterproofing layer.

Above ground cellars

Ground cellars are constructed if groundwater lies at a depth of less than 0.5 m from the surface of the earth.

Wall cellar construction technology

The name of this cellar speaks for itself. Such a cellar is attached to the main wall of the house. In Fig. shows one of the options for such a cellar.

The walls of the cellar are made of red burnt brick, monolithic concrete or flagstone. The thickness of the walls is 25 cm, that is, one brick. When laying, a regular masonry cement-sand mortar is used.

The walls on both sides are plastered with cement mortar, and on the outside they are additionally waterproofed with hot bitumen coating in two layers. To install the floor, the earthen base is leveled, cleaned and a concrete preparation 10-15 cm thick is made. After the concrete has hardened (approximately within a week), a cement floor 5 cm thick is installed.

Wall cellar: 1.- ventilation pipe; 2. - roofing material; 3. - wall of the house; 4. - overlap; 5. - bin; 6 - compacted crushed stone; 7 - blind area; 8 - bitumen coating; 9 - embankment; 10 - brick wall of the cellar.

To cover the cellar, a thick slab with hewn edges is used.

A layer of crumpled clay and two layers of roofing material are placed on top. Then they make a bund with peat or dry soil, which is sown with grass. A blind area and a drainage groove are made on all sides of the cellar at a distance of 1 ~ 1.5 m. Potatoes and vegetables are stored in lattice bins, which are raised above the floor level by 10 cm. For non-bulk products, the cellar is equipped with shelves.

Cellar-storage construction technology

This, one might say, is a classic of the genre, conjuring up pictures of merchant Moscow. A vegetable storehouse is an indispensable thing in conditions of high groundwater levels and in low-lying, waterlogged areas. The design of the storage shed is simple and accessible, proven by many years of experience. It can be successfully used not only by gardeners, but also by small vegetable farms, since the size of the storage shed can vary quite widely.

On personal plots, the land space is usually small, so the recommended dimensions of the storage shed are 3-4 m in length and 3.3-3.8 m in width.

In collective farms, large storage sheds can be made for storing vegetables, measuring 20-24 m in length and 7-8 m in width. It is not recommended to make warehouses with a larger area, because it becomes difficult to maintain the required temperature and humidity conditions in them and this is inconvenient to use.

The height of the storage shed should not exceed 2 m in its highest part, because otherwise the vegetables will freeze. The storage shed looks like a squat structure like a hut. In Fig. depicts a vegetable storehouse and some elements of its design.

For ease of use, passages are arranged inside the warehouse: in large warehouses there are two, in small warehouses - one. It is enough to make passages 60-70 cm wide. The storehouse has a frame structure. The frame is made of logs with a diameter of 13-18 and 18-22 cm. The log-pillars must be sanded. They are dug into the ground to a depth of about 1 m, and the upper ends are tied together with long longitudinal poles or logs. To make such a strapping, the tops of the log pillars are hacked into a tenon, and then strapping logs (poles) are placed on them.

Vegetable storage: 1. - bin; 2. - soil embankment; 3. - roofing material; 4. - sheathing; 5. - hatch.

Those parts of the logs that come into contact with the ground must be coated with hot bitumen or burned. This applies to the lower ends of the frame logs and the lower trim logs. Such measures will extend their service life by several years.

The storage shed design does not include a ceiling, and this circumstance significantly reduces the material and time costs of its construction.

If you have minimal construction skills, a storage shed can be erected in 7-10 days.

The roof of the storage shed is constructed from boards, on which a continuous sheathing is made from hewn slabs. For waterproofing, sheets of roofing material are placed on top in two layers. The roof is embanked with earth or peat with a layer 30-40 cm thick. The ground is sown with grass or covered with turf. The roof is made with wide overhangs and are lowered almost to the ground so that in winter the snow lingers on it, providing additional thermal insulation. The end sides of the structure are sheathed with boards in two rows. A layer of roofing material is laid between the boards so that there are no drafts in the room. A small door with a vestibule is installed on one of the end sides. The manhole door is also insulated.

Ventilation in the storehouse is carried out through an exhaust device: a wooden box with a valve-regulator located near the roof ridge. In the case where the storage shed is too elongated, two ventilation pipes are made: supply and exhaust. To protect the structure from melt and rainwater, a shallow drainage ditch is made around it.

Construction technology of a cellar with embankment

If soil conditions do not allow you to build a buried or semi-buried cellar, you can build an above-ground cellar with a bund and even give it a decorative function by planting ornamental plants on top or arranging an alpine slide.

At the base of the cellar, sand and crushed stone preparation is arranged, on which a waterproofing layer of crumpled clay is placed. The floor is laid out of baked bricks on an edge, which is called a Christmas tree. The consumption of bricks with this method of laying is 64 bricks per 1 m2 of floor.

The walls are erected from wood (logs or thick slabs) with hewn edges. The cracks are caulked with moss to protect against drafts. In addition, moss has the ability to absorb unpleasant odors. For the purpose of waterproofing from ground and capillary moisture, external walls are coated with hot bitumen or bitumen mastic in two steps, then covered with sheets of roofing felt. The ceiling of the cellar is made of boards or hewn slabs, covered on top with a layer of about 5 cm of clay straw and sheets of roofing material, or, in extreme cases, with plastic film. Then the entire cellar is covered with earth, which is either sown with grass or covered with turf.

Ground cellar with embankment: 1 - sand and crushed stone preparation; 2 - embankment; 3 - clay-straw; 4 - walls made of wood (slab); 5 - brick floor; 6 - waterproofing layer; 7 - clay castle.

Ventilation is carried out through a ventilation pipe with two channels. The entrance to the cellar is equipped with a double door. Lattice bins and shelves are installed inside the cellar.

Operation of cellars

In order for the cellar to serve for a long time, it is necessary to maintain it in working condition. There are some rules for caring for cellars that must be followed to extend their life.

Temperature and humidity control

The condition of the air in the cellar requires constant monitoring. One of the most important characteristics is relative air humidity. It is known that for storing potatoes the characteristics of the air condition are as follows: temperature + 2 -5 ° C, relative humidity 85-95%. If the humidity is below the specified level, the potatoes dry out and wrinkle. With higher humidity, condensation may form, which contributes to the germination of tubers and the development of rotting processes, especially when the temperature rises. To control the air temperature, it is advisable to hang a thermometer in the cellar.

In addition to the temperature, for normal operating conditions of the cellar it is necessary to maintain a certain humidity.

An increase in humidity can be noticed by a musty smell, dampening of the walls and ceiling, and fogging of food.

To detect the transition to negative temperatures, you can use the old-fashioned method - place a saucer of water in the cellar. When the temperature drops below 0° C, the water in the saucer will freeze.

Cellar gas pollution

Gas contamination in a cellar is a serious problem that its owner occasionally has to deal with. Most often, gas pollution is caused by the concentration of carbon dioxide (CO), which has toxic properties, causing suffocation. A concentration of carbon dioxide in the air of more than 10% is dangerous for the human body. You can judge with confidence the presence of carbon dioxide if a match does not light up in the cellar or a candle goes out.

Even more dangerous is the accumulation of swamp gas in the cellar. A swamp gas breakthrough can occur if the cellar is built in a low-lying swampy area. Swamp gas, consisting mainly of methane, forms an explosive mixture with air. At high concentrations, it has a nerve-paralytic effect on the human body. If gas contamination is detected, it is urgent to ventilate the cellar as thoroughly as possible. If ventilation is not working well and there is no air circulation, you need to create it artificially. To do this, you can lower a sheaf of straw or a blanket into the cellar on a rope and create air movement by quickly raising and lowering it.

Fighting condensation

The formation of condensation in the cellar is very often caused by poor ventilation or poor ceiling insulation. It is necessary to combat this harmful phenomenon immediately, since both the room itself and the products stored in it suffer from the presence of condensation.

First of all, measures are taken to insulate the ceiling. To do this, you can use any material that has moisture-absorbing ability and dries quickly. Such materials include forest moss or artificial expanded clay material. Sometimes you have to insulate the walls as well. If this does not help, then condensation and drops from the ceiling are removed using umbrellas made of galvanized iron or plastic film. You can also use drainage plywood. Special gutters are attached to them to drain water and divert it into water intake wells. If the cellar design does not provide for these, you can use a regular bucket. In this case, in the summer the cellar must be carefully examined and repaired.

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One of the main concerns of summer residents and owners of private houses is growing a rich harvest. However, no less important is how to keep it fresh longer. For this, the cellar is most often used. Since the construction of such a structure has its own characteristics, you need to consider in detail how to make a cellar in a country house with your own hands step by step if groundwater is nearby.

Groundwater level measurement

First, determine the depth at which groundwater occurs. The procedure can be performed without outside help. The peak of groundwater is typical for spring. During this period, holes are made with a two-meter drill. It is generally accepted that it is at this depth that the storage facility is laid. If, when excavating the earth from such a depth, it turns out to be dry, then this is very good.

In the place where it is planned to build a cellar, they drill several holes and wait for 24 hours.

If the groundwater does not lie deep, then it will definitely be visible in the holes made. When water appears, you need to measure the height of the water column. For these purposes, you can take the reinforcement and lower it into the recess, then use a tape measure to measure the distance of the wet rod. To get more accurate readings, measurements should be taken for several days, and then select the highest value.

In addition, you need to be sure that the resulting level corresponds to groundwater. The occurrence of perched water is possible at a depth of 5 m. Therefore, you need to find out the distance to the well water surface near your site. If the value is greater than in the drilled holes, this will indicate perched water. In such a situation, a ring drainage will be required.

To determine groundwater, you should also follow some rules:

• perched water is most often present on loams and clayey soils;
• the water level rises as a result of heavy rainfall and during rising water in nearby reservoirs;
• Groundwater has clear boundaries, but the water level itself can sometimes change;
• If the soil waters are constant, then the perched water is unpredictable.

How to choose a place

The correct choice of site for the future cellar is a determining factor in keeping food fresh for as long as possible. It is not recommended to locate storage in the following places:

• in an area unprotected from the sun. It is preferable to choose a shaded place;
• near large trees, which with their root system can lead to structural damage.

For the construction of the structure, the most elevated part of the site is selected. This will reduce the likelihood of flooding when the water level rises. To prevent the collapse of the building walls, the cellar pit should be located at least 0.5 m from the base of other buildings.

If you build a cellar in a room without heating, for example, in a barn, you can make the operation of the vegetable storage more convenient, since in winter you will not have to constantly clear snow. The roof and walls will additionally protect from wind and sunlight. When constructing a storage facility as a separate structure, the exit should be positioned so that it is in the shade. If for some reason this is not possible, you will need to carefully insulate the front door. Sometimes a cellar is made directly in a private house.

What to build from

If a storage facility is planned to be built on an area with high groundwater level, it must be taken into account that this will have a destructive effect on the material of the structure. It is not recommended to use wood and brick. The first material will rot quite quickly and will not prevent moisture from getting inside. Due to the absorption of moisture, the brick will also collapse due to its porosity. However, you can use red baked brick, which is characterized by high moisture resistance and durability.

For the construction of a cellar, it is advisable to use waterproof grades of cement, but ordinary cement is also quite suitable.

One of the preferred materials for storage is concrete blocks. You can use another stone if you can get it in your area.

Drainage arrangement

To prevent water from entering the cellar, you will need to make a drainage system, familiarizing yourself with the possible schemes.

Installation of ring drainage

If the groundwater is shallow, digging a hole for the cellar will not be easy due to the wet and heavy soil.

Therefore, you first need to take care of reducing the groundwater level below the bottom of the future structure. For this:

The installation of a drainage system will ensure the removal of water and will prevent its penetration into the cellar. For additional protection, they resort to waterproofing the structure.

Internal drainage

Having a small dacha or suburban area, you don’t always want to change anything or completely destroy it. Therefore, it is better to resort to organizing internal drainage, which can be used for the cellar as a separate structure. As a result, the system will collect water that has already entered the structure. The procedure is performed as follows:

A combination of the listed types of drainage is possible, since the ring system may simply not cope with the volume of water, for example, during heavy rains.

Building a cellar with your own hands

Before starting the construction of an earthen cellar, you need to choose one of the designs that is suitable for low groundwater levels:

• recessed;
• semi-recessed;
• ground.

If the groundwater level is high, it is not advisable to choose a deep cellar.

The dimensions of the structure are determined by the size of the family and the number of products expected to be stored in it. If we take, for example, a family of 3-4 people, then a cellar measuring 1.5x2 m and up to 2 m deep will be enough. The shape of the building can be either round or rectangular.

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On the territory of a suburban area, it would not hurt to build a cool room for storing pickles, fruits, vegetables and other food products. In this regard, it is worth considering how to make a cellar in the country with your own hands. By completing all the steps step by step, you can create reliable and durable storage.

Even the small design allows you to store a lot of food

The cellar is usually located in a separate place on the street or under a residential building. Its main purpose is to store food supplies. Due to the device, shelves and other devices, it is possible to increase the functionality of the room.

Classification of cellars by depth level:

• underground structures are installed in dry places;
• semi-underground structures are erected in damp places with average groundwater levels;
• above-ground buildings are made when groundwater is too close.

Note! In an area with too high humidity, a special cushion of sand and gravel mixture should be installed. It will separate the structure from groundwater.

The construction of a cellar does not require obtaining permission from any regulatory authorities, however, the developer must in any case decide on its location, taking into account some nuances. You should choose a site that is as dry as possible, away from trees.

DIY cellar at the dacha step by step: basic work

After choosing a suitable location for the country storage, you can begin basic work. The listed stages are relevant for underground and semi-buried structures. As for above-ground structures, they have a slightly different construction technology.

Pit preparation

When digging a pit, the following points must be taken into account without fail:

• the depth of the pit is determined by the design of the building;
• the area of ​​the dug pit should be somewhat larger, since a certain part of the space will be occupied by walls and floor;
• You can avoid shedding of earth from the side walls by installing formwork;
• the removed soil should be left for embankment and design of the structure.

Important! Setting up a do-it-yourself cellar under the house deserves special attention. In this case, the need for laying floors is completely eliminated, since this function is successfully performed by the floors of the first floor.

Base structure in the form of a floor

The most suitable option is to fill the lower plane with concrete mortar. To do this, all debris is removed from the pit. The surface is leveled and compacted, after which it is covered with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. A waterproofing membrane and reinforcing mesh are laid on top, then concrete is poured.

Thus, when wondering which floor in the cellar is best to install, first of all you should pay attention to the concrete base.

Construction of the walls of the structure

The side parts of the structure must withstand soil pressure. Mainly used in their construction are:

• concrete mixture;
• building blocks;
• brick;
• wood.

Laying floors

The first option for floors is wooden beams. The load-bearing elements are laid with their edges on opposite walls, after which they are sheathed with boards. A waterproofing membrane is spread on top. The second option is to use ready-made reinforced concrete slabs. They are durable, which is why they are popular. They are laid on the end parts of the walls, after which they are covered with earth.

Creating high-quality ventilation

Constant air exchange will make it possible to avoid the appearance of mold and rot in the room, and will also allow you to maintain optimal temperature conditions. For ventilation, two pipes must be installed. One of them will be a supply, and the other will be an exhaust.

For ventilation, plastic pipes of medium diameter are suitable. However, their sizes depend on the volume of the room. Supply elements are usually located on one side, 20 cm from the floor, and exhaust elements on the other, 30-40 cm from the ceiling.

Problem with high groundwater levels: do-it-yourself cellar

A certain category of developers may have the following dilemma: if groundwater is close, how to make a cellar? It’s worth mentioning right away that this is quite possible. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to make a ring drainage of the site where construction is planned.

Perforated elements are located below the depth of the soil along the perimeter of the pit. Their slope should be approximately 2 cm per linear meter towards the well or waste pit. Pipes should be covered with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextile.

If the floor and walls are made of reinforced concrete, then high-quality waterproofing should be done from the inside and outside.

A large plastic container can be used as a sealed room. It is completely buried in the ground. By building a plastic cellar at your dacha with your own hands step by step, you can avoid mistakes associated with waterproofing the structure.

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Work after building a cellar with your own hands: photos + additional recommendations

Ensuring unhindered ascent and descent is carried out using. Its width should not be less than 40 cm, otherwise moving can be very difficult. It is allowed to make a slope of up to 75 degrees. The material can be wood, metal or concrete.

To store supplies, it is necessary to build special shelves or racks. Typically, 100x100 timber is used for their manufacture. The height of the structure depends on the height of the room itself.

A cellar for storing vegetables, food supplies, and canning is a traditional, indispensable element of country life. A well-built cellar maintains almost the same temperature, no matter what time of year it is. Thus, you can be sure that vegetables, fruits, pickles, and jams will be reliably preserved. No one will say that making a cellar with your own hands is easy. Of course not. But information about “what and how” will not hurt.

It is worth considering that the cellar and basement are different rooms, but they have the same purpose - you can store food and gifts from the seasonal harvest. Proper basement ventilation is the main factor to pay attention to during construction.

Equipped storage under the house (in other words, a cellar in a cellar) is convenient, since everything is nearby: in winter you don’t need to get dressed to go outside, as if it were located separately. Also, you will not need to insulate walls and ceilings, because such a room always maintains a positive temperature.

The cellar is a purposeful building; it can have any area and can be equipped with all kinds of shelves, stands, and racks. A properly adjusted ventilation system, waterproofing, and thermal insulation will create an optimal temperature level for storing food. Unlike a basement, a cellar can be built in any desired location in the local area.

A separately located cellar can become part of the design concept and harmoniously complement the style direction of the garden plot.

Cellar design or why the basement is the coldest place in the house

This factor is explained by the laws of physics - despite the connection between the basement space and the outside air, in the summer the basement will be the coldest place in the house. In winter, the basement will be warmer, even if the rooms above are not heated.

This phenomenon is due to the fact that warm air currents are much lighter than cold ones, and therefore rush upward. And the cold air tends downwards and concentrates in the basement.

In the summer, the house receives heat from the sun-heated roof and heated walls, but, of course, the sun's rays do not reach the basement. But even if you don’t live in a country house in winter, and the house is not heated in any way, the basement will maintain a temperature slightly above zero. The lower the basement is, the warmer it will be in winter.

How to build a cellar

It is better to start planning the stages of building a cellar with your own hands when the weather gets warmer, but it is better to determine the groundwater level in spring or autumn.

There are three main types of cellars: above ground, in-ground, and semi-in-ground. Soil with a high level of water passage can become the main obstacle to the construction of a classic cellar. It is in such cases that it is recommended to choose a semi-buried or above-ground type of storage.

Stages of construction work:

Cellar ventilation

Ventilation of the cellar and basement is an important factor in maintaining acceptable temperature conditions for storing food supplies. Excessive dampness is an eternal companion of all underground premises. If you do not intend to exclusively grow mushrooms, then you should take care to control air humidity.

If the cellar is located in the basement of the house, then the vents in the base of the house foundation (which are laid during construction) will specifically perform a ventilation function. For a small basement, about 5 square meters, such an air exchange system is quite suitable. To prevent rodents from entering, it is better to cover the vents with metal mesh and seal them tightly during frosts.

If you need a large basement, then supply and exhaust ventilation based on natural air exchange will be the best solution. For a separately constructed cellar, as well as a basement, it is necessary to provide two air ducts in advance. The thickness of the pipes (preferably PVC) depends on the size of the room. The most commonly used diameter is 20-60 cm.

The principle of operation of such a system works on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the cellar. The hood (exhaust pipe) is located under the ceiling of the cellar, passing through the ceiling, leaving one end on the roof. The supply pipe also leads to the roof, but its other end, which is located indoors, must be no higher than 100 cm from the basement floor. Grids and dampers at the outer ends of the pipes will protect the air ducts from precipitation and help regulate the level of heat in the room, if necessary.

Ventilation diagram in the cellar:

Waterproofing the basement from the inside

The cellar and basement should be dry - this is an axiom. In addition to standard waterproofing mastics (Aqua, Technonikol, BITUMAST), plasters (Monolit, Polimin, Scanmix), it is advisable to use penetrating waterproofing (for example, Penetron or Millennium).

The most effective methods:

1. Penetrating waterproofing is effective, easy to use: applied with a brush to slightly damp walls, floors, and is environmentally friendly. Before use, it must be diluted with water until a homogeneous consistency is obtained.
2. Liquid rubber is best applied to pre-primed walls and floors. It is desirable that the surface is smooth - this will facilitate the ideal application of the bitumen-polymer layer and ensure optimal adhesion. After applying and drying the first layer of liquid rubber to strategic places (seams, joints, utility lines), you can reapply the second layer.
3. Basement waterproofing with liquid glass works in the same way as penetrating insulation types. This is an extremely effective method with a long-lasting effect and has good breathability and water-repellent qualities.

Cellar insulation

It is advisable to take care of the insulation of the cellar during the construction stages. After applying the waterproofing layers, foam plastic (density 25) or polystyrene foam boards are most often used - they are used to cover the walls of the cellar both outside and inside. These materials are good because they are not affected by fungus and mold, are easy to install, and have a low cost.

Stages of floor insulation:

1. The rough surface of the floor is leveled and covered with waterproofing material.
2. The insulation is being installed (approximately 4-8 cm).
3. Polyphenol (multi-layer reflective insulation) is installed.
4. A reinforced screed is placed on top of all layers.

As for the walls, the layering effect also works here:

1. Waterproofing layer.
2. Installation of foam boards (or other suitable material), for securing which you can use an appropriate adhesive composition.
3. Cement screed (small thickness), reinforced with reinforcement for greater reliability. The M-100 cement grade is optimally suited for these purposes.
4. Since the cellar is a room with high humidity, to enhance the effect, you can additionally treat the walls with a waterproofing compound on top of the screed.
5. The finished surface can be covered with any finishing coating you like (tiles, wild stone, etc.).

It is better to carefully fill all existing joints with polyurethane foam.

Stairs in the basement

The staircase is an important structural element of the cellar or basement. Your safety depends on them, so ladders must be properly manufactured and installed. The most common materials used for construction are hardwood, metal or concrete.

The staircase can be straight, rotary, spiral or attached - it all depends on the individual design of the cellar or basement, as well as on your preferences. The staircase must be strong, reliable, and preferably have railings. The thickness of the steps directly depends on the width of the tread.

It doesn’t matter what material the staircase is made of, but building codes must be strictly observed. The correct width, clearance, slope - these are the main parameters of construction.

A plastic cellar is an innovative alternative to standard cellars or basements. In fact, this storage is a ready-made plastic cube (box), with strong walls, shelves, a ladder, and a hermetically sealed lid. Such storage can be installed quite quickly and is subsequently not afraid of humidity - and this is an important factor for storing food supplies. To make such a container, plastic is used, which contains fiberglass or polypropylene. The ready-made factory version comes with a ventilation system.

A plastic cellar can be installed in any desired location in the local area or under a garage, house, or any building. The only important nuance is the correct installation of the box.

Advantages:

• no temperature changes;
• humidity control;
• protection from rodents;
• does not absorb odors;
• easy cleaning and disinfection;
• not subject to corrosion;
• operational life is more than 50 years.

The installation process in general, step by step:

1. A pit of the appropriate size is dug.
2. The bottom of the pit is concreted (or a ready-made concrete slab is installed).
3. The box is installed on a concrete bottom and secured with slings (or according to the manufacturer’s recommendations).
4. The pit with the box is filled with a mixture of sand and concrete, only the entrance cover remains visible from the outside.

It is also worth mentioning the addition that the owners of such cellars sometimes make - we are talking about insulating the walls with foam plastic. Here opinions are divided, since the design itself is self-sufficient and, in theory, does not need improvement. This issue is decided only by the owner, but additional thermal insulation will certainly not harm the box.

Whatever type of storage room you choose, you need to take into account the characteristics of the soil on the site and pay close attention to all construction parameters. A plastic cellar, a separate building, or a basement in a private house, equipped with your own hands to store the gifts of summer, requires accurate preliminary calculations. If you adhere to all construction rules, a self-built cellar will delight you and your loved ones with high-quality preserved products for many years.