Raising the wall of a frame house with your own hands. How to build frame walls: the principle of building with your own hands. External wall cladding

Any FORUMHOUSE user knows well that the reliability and service life of a house depends on the careful planning of construction. The foundation construction stage deserves special attention.

But sometimes it happens that problems with the foundation or building arise several years after its construction.

The foundation is cracked, the lower crowns of a wooden house have rotted, or the height of the plinth is too small, the structure has sagged and “slung” on one corner, its Bottom part constantly waterlogged... To prevent the foundation from completely falling apart, the owner country house thinking about renovation. But this is difficult to do; the building is already standing on its foundation.

In this case, you can raise the house, put it on temporary supports, carry out necessary complex repair work and lower it into place on the repaired base.

And because prices at construction companies they bite on such services, then many forum users take up raising wooden house on one's own. And if we more or less understand how to perform the lift country house jack, then when we're talking about not about the dacha, but about big house For year-round residence, difficulties begin.

Read on FORUMHOUSE how to raise panel house with your own hands and what you need to raise the panel house. See how a member of our portal leveled the corner of a house with a jack.

What kind of jack is needed to lift a wooden house

s uchhund:

– I independently raised a wooden frame house measuring 6x6 m. The reason that forced me to take such a step was the destruction of the old foundation and the desire to live “higher” from the ground, away from dampness.

The forum member’s foundation was an unreinforced concrete strip 30 cm wide and 50 cm high. 20 cm of the strip was buried in the ground, the remaining 30 cm were above the ground.

Due to the fact that the foundation was built in violation of technology back in the 70s of the last century, it began to actively crumble. Having thought about how to raise the house and drawn up a work plan to modernize the foundation, the forum member first purchased a tool: inexpensive jacks for wooden houses(2 pieces), with a lifting capacity of 8 and 10 tons.

Then suchhund sawed wooden spacers from boards and timber of different lengths. Gaskets are necessary so that as the building is lifted with jacks, they can be placed under the lower rims until it reaches the required height. In total, the forum member sawed 100 gaskets of different sizes.

s uchhund:

“Having cleared the concrete debris, I installed jacks in the openings and began lifting. At one time I raised the wall of the house no higher than 20 mm, after which I installed spacers, moved the jack to another opening and again carried out a gradual rise.

While lifting the house, you can open the windows, this will protect the double-glazed windows from possible appearance cracks

The building was raised clockwise. In order to reduce the weight of the building, the forum member removed all the furniture and household utensils from it. In two days, the building was raised by 60 cm. Having raised the building to the required height, the forum member began to reinforce a new strip foundation, erected on top of the old one, the crumbling of which was already visible to the naked eye.

s uchhund:

“Everything that was left over from the old supplies from the construction site was put into use. I chose 12 A-III fittings as a working one, and 6 A-I fittings for clamps. The cross-section of the new tape poured over the old one was 30x50 cm.

To tie the two foundations together, the forum member drilled into the old tape with 6 mm anchors for clamps. He tied the entire perimeter of the foundation at once, except for those openings where temporary supports stood, which ended up inside the reinforcement frame. To ensure that there are still air holes in the foundation after pouring concrete, suchhund took plastic pipe with a diameter of 150 mm and sawed it into 12 pieces 30 cm long. There were 3 ventilation ducts on each side of the building. In total, the process of reinforcing the foundation took 2 days.

Read our article about whether vents are needed in the basement.

Then it was time to install the formwork.

suchhund, Moscow:

– I made the panels for the formwork from hardboard sheets, sawn to size 2x6 meters. For rigidity, I screwed 3 “twenty” boards 2 meters long and three “magpie” boards 6 meters long to the shields. Inner surface I covered the shields with film, and for additional strength I tied the shields together with steel pins passed through plastic tube diameter 22 mm.

As a result, after installing the formwork, the lower part of which rested on the old foundation, only the installation openings remained uncovered. Having hit the horizontal line with a level, the forum member began pouring a new foundation. Suchhund prepared the mixture - “self-mix” with the following proportions of materials:

• 1 part cement M500;
• 1 part clean water;
• 3 parts washed river sand;
• 2 parts crushed granite fractions 5-20.

suchhund:

– I mixed the concrete with a mixer. After pouring the foundation, I vibrated the mixture with a deep vibrator. This must be done, otherwise you can forget about a quality foundation. After the concrete gained strength, I covered the top of the tape with waterproofing and lowered the house onto a new foundation.

Read on our portal how to raise country house on blocks and in general how to raise a garden house.

Instructionsfrom our experts

Although suchhund performed the work of repairing and leveling the foundation very efficiently, the experts of our site, after reading this example, came to the rescue and gave some advice to the manual for FORUMHOUSE users who decided to do the “rigging” work themselves.

Igor Bekkerev,(nickname on the forum Igor3):

– I have been lifting and moving houses since 1984. It should be noted that the above method of installing temporary wooden pads is very dangerous, and here’s why. Gaskets must ensure reliable stability of the entire structure, otherwise the structure may topple. It is best to make the bottom spacers from concrete blocks, and use special welded trestles (bedside tables) for hanging the house. And pour new tape It’s better not in separate blocks, but as a whole – as a monolith.

Drawing of a device for lifting a house with a jack.

Gromozeka:

– Imagine: instead of concrete cubes (blocks), there are steel supports in the form of parallelepipeds, welded from angle, thick reinforcement or channel. It is necessary to pass the reinforcement through these blocks, tie it, then install the formwork and pour the concrete. In the end it will be a single monolithic design strip foundation.

Welded pillars-supports, embedded in the tape, do not interfere with the pouring of the foundation, and the reinforcement and formwork rest on them.

It is important to remember that any mistake made when lifting a structure can lead to it tilting, sliding off temporary supports and falling. Among these errors are:

• Rapid, uneven and too high rise of one side of the house;
• Insufficient strength of temporary supports. But the building, while it stands “on chicken legs”, is also affected by wind loads;
• Insufficient strength of the base on which the jacks rest;
• Incorrect calculation of the lifting force of the jack, which is necessary to lift the house from the foundation.

Therefore, the lifting of a building must begin with the obligatory calculation of a number of nuances that directly affect both the safety of the structure (windows, doors, rafter system etc.), and for the safety of the “riggers” working under the house.

Igor3:

– They often ask how to raise wooden house on jacks so that it does not fall apart. There is only one piece of advice - you need to understand where the vector of applied forces is directed. The structure can rise clockwise or vice versa. We make 3-10 circles (as many as needed) until the house rises to a sufficient height. I do not advise raising it by more than 350 mm, although we raise houses up to 80 cm, and with the use special technology and up to 1.8 meters. When lifting, avoid swaying the building. This comes with experience - you already feel the moment after which it will begin to lose stability.

Practice shows that to lift a frame house weighing up to 7 tons, 1 jack with a force of 10 tons is enough. The house will have to be lifted slowly, gradually moving the jack to different points. You can lift the building (one side of it) no more than 3-5 cm at a time, working in a circle! At professional work 15-20 jacks are used at a time.

What kind of jack is needed to lift a wooden house.

Under wooden beams buildings are lined up metal plates. To increase the supporting area, it is more convenient to rest the jack on wooden pads, which allow you to increase the area of ​​support on the ground.

The horizontalness of the rise is controlled visually, at the tear-off points, using templates (cuts of boards), because The laser level is difficult to see during the day.

You can also lift stone buildings, but another technology is used, detailed description to which we will devote one of our next articles. The stone structure must be lifted all at once, simultaneously from all sides, otherwise the lifting will lead to the destruction of the building.

Igor3:

– Any house can be raised. It is difficult to lift brick buildings. The cost of such work sometimes exceeds the cost of the building itself. Therefore, if a brick building is not of historical or architectural value, it is not practical to raise or move it.

The technology for lifting a stone building is as follows: openings are cut in the base for powerful beams. The beams are welded into a single frame. To lift a stone house, you will need several dozen jacks connected to each other by hoses or controlled by a computer. Jacks from 50 tons are used.

Such technologies are more expensive, because require more equipment, equipment and qualified workers.

Almost a pro:

– To lift stone buildings, professionals use a variety of various devices, including a very expensive hydraulic station with hydraulic cylinders. Rolled metal is required I-beams, welding, set fastening elements, because A base of double metal frame is placed under the entire house. Therefore, the price tag for such work is appropriate.

Find out on FORUMHOUSE how (step by step) to pull a post out of the ground and how to raise a rickety brick fence using a jack.

Read our article on how to move a house.

Read our forum member’s story about how to raise a country house on its foundation yourself. Also FORUMHOUSE users can find out how to raise log house on jacks without dismantling the floor. We offer you a detailed photo report on raising a wooden house and repairing the foundation. Watch our videos on how to redo a problematic foundation and how you can reconstruct an old country house.

Is it possible to lift a house with a jack without involving special equipment? At first glance, this task would be overwhelming for one person. But after familiarizing yourself with the technology and learning the features of lifting wooden buildings, similar work can be done with your own hands.

Preparatory work

There may be several reasons why a house should be raised to a certain height: destruction of the foundation, constant dampness of the base or an increase in its size, as well as replacement of the lower crowns of the house. To perform this work, you will need empty space between the building and the foundation. But first the house must be prepared.

List of mandatory actions before raising a building:

• simplify the structure as much as possible - remove furniture and things;
• disconnect the building from engineering communications– water supply, sewerage, gas and electricity;
• make sure that the raising of the building will not be obstructed foreign objects– tree branches, power line wires, etc.

After this, you can begin the main stage of work.

Materials and components for raising a house

You can lift a wooden house using hydraulic jacks. It is not recommended to use mechanical analogues, as they are not reliable. The load capacity depends on the weight of the building. For frame house weighing up to 10 tons, two jacks with a lifting capacity of up to 20 tons will be sufficient.

Additionally, you will need the following tools and consumables:

• Wooden slats. With their help, the height of one of the walls is noted.
• At least two hydraulic jacks;
• Supports for fixing the height of the walls. Most often used wooden boards and timber with a thickness of 5 mm or more.
• Tool for making mounting openings. It could be a chainsaw, a sledgehammer.

The location of the supports depends on the type of foundation. For tape, it is necessary to install at least 4 supports under each wall. If the building is on pile foundation– the supports are mounted first under the outer ones, and then under those located in the middle part of the house.

Technology of lifting a house using a jack

After preparing the house for lifting it with a jack, you need to make sure that the walls are secure. First, control strips with markings are installed at a distance of 50-100 cm. Then mounting openings are formed for installing the jack. If necessary, the bonding layer between the foundation and the wooden wall is destroyed.

In order to lift a house with a jack, you need to do the following.

1. Install the hydraulic jack into the installation opening. Its size should ensure installation support boards.
2. In one approach, the building rises no more than 20 mm.
3. After this, support boards are placed to fix the position.
4. You need to move clockwise (or counterclockwise).
5. A fixed amount of lift is performed on all mounting holes at one time.
6. Without the use of special equipment maximum height the rise can be 50-60 cm.

After the work is completed, the foundation is repaired or a new one is poured, and the lower crowns of the wooden house are replaced. Additionally, it is recommended to check the condition of the support beams, and, if necessary, replace some of them and treat them with antiseptics.

It is important to follow safety rules while performing work. You cannot be under the building; all actions are performed outside the area where the foundation of the house is located. Before starting repair activities, you should make sure that the walls are securely fixed.

Upon completion of the work, you need to prepare the surface of the foundation for installing a building on it - laying roofing material, processing special compounds. Lowering the house is carried out according to a similar scheme. A jack is installed in the technological opening and the wall is fixed. Then some of the support boards are removed, after which the jack is lowered. The procedure is repeated until the house is completely fixed on the foundation.

Common mistakes when lifting a house

To avoid the possibility of partial or complete destruction of the house while lifting it with a jack, you must follow the technology. The lifting capacity of the jack should not be less than the total weight of the building. If this cannot be ensured, two are used lifting devices, working simultaneously.

Additionally, you need to avoid the most common mistakes:

• Uneven and rapid rise of the house. This will lead to its distortion and loss of stability.
• Mechanical strength of supports. They must withstand the loads of the greater mass of the building.
• Bases for jacks with increased stability.

For lifting brick or monolithic houses a different technology is used. A complex formation is formed above the foundation metal structure, the building is shifted using hydraulic system. It is impossible to do this at home.

A wooden house has to be raised to replace the lower crowns or repair the foundation. In this article we will talk about how to raise a house with your own crayfish using a jack, what to pay attention to and what tool to use. We will also tell you about the most common mistakes, which are allowed when lifting a house independently and their consequences.

What you need to know about lifting your house correctly

Wooden houses are raised different ways and with different purposes. However general principle and the algorithm of actions is the same in all cases. It looks like this:

1. All communications are turned off.
2. Prepare a place for installing jacks.
3. Install jacks and unfasten lower crown from the foundation.
4. They raise the house and put up supports.
5. They carry out repair work, for which they raise the house.
6. The house is lowered, gradually removing the supports.

Disabling communications

When planning to raise a house, it is necessary to completely disconnect all communications - electricity, water supply, gas, sewerage. If you do not do this, there is a high probability of serious damage. In addition, it is necessary to cut all wires and pipes that connect the house to the ground. Otherwise, they will greatly interfere with the rise and may compromise the integrity of the log house. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the stove, because the stove is placed on concrete foundation, not connected to the house. It will also be necessary to ensure free movement of the chimney through the roof. If on concrete base boiler is installed, disconnect it from the heating system. If the boiler is installed on the wall, then it will not interfere with the rise of the house.

Preparing to install jacks

The method of installing the jack depends on the type of foundation of the house. On tape and slab foundations you have to cut a rectangular hole either in the foundation or in the lower crowns. On columnar or pile foundations, strong wooden boards, on which jacks are installed.

When equipping a place for a jack, it is necessary to prepare a flat and strong platform that will allow the tool to withstand the weight of the wall, which often reaches 3–5 tons. It is also necessary to stock up on metal triangular four-legged spacers (supports, bedside tables) with the ability to adjust in height (they can be purchased at any auto store), and wooden planks of various widths and thicknesses. It is advisable that the width of the slats should not be less than 20 cm, optimally 40–50 centimeters. Such planks can be made from boards with a thickness of 50, 25 and 10 mm, connecting them using half-wood jumpers of the same thickness.

If you are going to completely replace the foundation and grillage under the house, you will need metal channels and corners so that they can be used to weld a temporary structure that will take on the weight of the house until you finish all the work and the new foundation acquires the required strength.

Select places for jacks in such a way that the distance from the corner was 1–2 meters, and between the jacks there was 3–4 meters. For big houses Up to 10 jacks may be required.

Do not forget that the jacks must be installed on the side of the lower beam of the casing (lower) crown. Therefore, first carefully inspect the house to determine bottom beam or a frame crown log. On the side of the upper beam, the requirements for installing jacks are lower - the distance from the corner is up to 4 meters and the distance between the jacks is up to 6 meters.

House lifting technology - Video

Once you have prepared the area for the jacks and installed them, place strong wooden spacers under the top and raise the jacks until they rest against the bottom crown or wooden grillage Houses. If a metal grillage is installed under the house, then it must be cut at the places where the jacks are installed to a sufficient width to accommodate the spacer. Having supported the house, disconnect the frame crown from the foundation or grillage. This operation must be carried out around the entire perimeter of the house. If you forget to disconnect the flashing in even one place, it will jeopardize the integrity of your home. If you only have one jack, you will have to raise the house gradually, using wooden planks and moving the jack from place to place.

Raise the jacks gradually and no more than 3–5 centimeters at a time and immediately place the prepared strips under the crown. Continue to raise the first jack only after all jacks have been raised. If something goes wrong and the house falls off the jack, the slats will prevent it from gaining speed and swipe. Whenever possible, replace thin planks with thick ones, and then install supports. This will keep the house from falling under the influence of the wind. The height to raise the house depends on what you want to do. If you need to replace one or more crowns, then the height of the house should be equal to the height of one crown plus 10–15 centimeters. To replace the crowns, you will have to move the spacers, changing first on some walls, then on others.

After all the repair work for which the house was raised is completed, it begins to be lowered. To do this, first lift it slightly and install slats instead of goats. Then they pull out the top bar in each support and carefully, one millimeter at a time, lower the house by 2–4 cm. After all the jacks have been lowered one circle at a time, pull out one bar again and lower it another 2–4 cm. If there is only one jack, then first they raise one side and instead of the goat they put a set of planks. Then the same operation is performed on the remaining areas. After this, they lift the first section, pull out the top bar and lower the house until it rests on the remaining package. This operation is performed in a circle until all the slats are removed. After this, the casing crown is attached to the foundation or grillage.

What tools are needed

When planning to raise a house, you need to prepare all the tools in advance so that during the work you do not have to run to the store for the missing tools. Here is a list of tools that will be required for this job:

• a hydraulic jack with a lifting force of at least ¼ of the weight of the house;
• strong wooden panels for installing a jack (only for pile and columnar foundations);
• chain saw for concrete (for slab and strip foundations and reinforced concrete grillages);
• various linings with a width of at least 20 cm each;
• safety stands with height adjustment;
• grinder with a metal disc (for houses with a metal grillage);
• keys and screwdrivers for detaching the casing from the foundation or grillage.

How to choose a jack to raise a house

When choosing a jack, you need to focus on two parameters - power (lifting force) and shape. To determine required power jack, calculate the mass of the house and divide it by 4. If the house is small, then it is advisable to use a jack with a lifting force equal to half the mass of the house. This is due to the fact that in big houses up to 10 jack installation points, so the tool will work without overload, and in small houses there are only 4 points, so the jack will work with maximum load.

For lifting houses located low above the ground, rolling and inflatable jacks with a board 50–100 mm thick and at least 250 mm wide placed under them are well suited. If the distance from the ground exceeds 30–40 cm, then bottle and scissor hydraulic jacks, as well as screw rack and rhombic jacks, are well suited.

The most common and dangerous mistakes

When lifting wooden houses, the following mistakes are most often made:

• they forget to disconnect the casing from the foundation;
• raise one side too much;
• the jack is not installed clearly;
• do not use gaskets between the jack and the crown;
• pads that are too narrow are used.

If you forget to disconnect the frame crown from the grillage in at least one place, then when raising the house, there is a high probability that the frame crown will split, causing the whole house to shake. If this happens, you will have to caulk not only those crowns that you change during the repair process, but also all the others.

If you raise one side too much (more than 5 cm), then there is a high probability of skewing and jamming of windows and doors. In addition, lifting one side too much will cause the beams or logs to warp, which will force the house to be re-caulked, which is difficult and expensive.

One of the common and very dangerous mistakes is unclear installation of the jack. If during the lifting process it pushes through the soil or somehow changes its position, there is a high probability that this will lead to a shift of the entire house relative to the foundation. If this happens, it will be very difficult to get the house back. In particular severe cases you will have to disassemble it completely, then reassemble it on the foundation. Using a jack without a “heel” - a spacer between it and the crown - often leads to splitting of a beam or log. After all, the area of ​​the bottle jack rod is small, but the pressure it creates is enormous.

Another extremely dangerous mistake is using narrow linings. After all, a raised house is in no way connected to the foundation, so even a small wind creates enough force to overturn the narrow supports, as a result of which the house falls from the foundation and is destroyed. To avoid this, it is necessary to use wide pads and welded triangular “goats” with the ability to adjust in height. Such “goats” are used to secure raised cars. When choosing goats, make sure that they have not 3, but 4 legs. Goats with three legs are not suitable for lifting a house.

This question often arises among owners of old wooden buildings when it is necessary to carry out major renovation of their dilapidated home. The task cannot be called simple, but you can cope with it yourself if you follow the recommendations and tips given in the article.

Preparation

The process of raising a wooden house with jacks with your own hands is not very difficult, but in order for everything to go as it should, you need to thoroughly prepare for the work and act without haste.

It is important! In autumn and spring it often rains, due to which the soil becomes limp (and the groundwater level becomes higher), so the jack will get stuck in it. It's better to do the work in dry time of the year.

Interior of the house and communications

To make the structure as light as possible, it is recommended to remove furniture from the house.

You also need:

• disconnect the water heating pipes from the one installed on separate foundation boiler;
• disconnect the gas pipeline from the house (the work is performed by a gas service specialist);
• it may be necessary to disconnect the power lines;
• dismantle part of the sewer leaving the building.

A visual inspection will help determine what else is in the way - it could be trees, their branches, bushes, etc.

Tools and consumables

You can lift a wooden house (a four-walled hut) with one jack, but two are more convenient.

It is important! Use only hydraulic jacks with a lifting force of 10 tons or more.

Car jacks should not be used to lift a house - they are not reliable enough for these types of work. It is also not recommended to use screw jacks without providing reliable support - when the nut rotates, a strong rotational load is created on the tool, and it can turn and jump out.

In addition to the lifting mechanism, you will need:

1. Wooden slats. Height marks will be placed on them, showing the degree of elevation of the wall.
2. Boards or bars different thicknesses. Will be used as stands for raised walls.
3. Metal plates. Designed to protect logs from splitting (a cut of a channel or corner will do).
4. Flat plates made of thick metal.
5. A gas or electric saw to cut mounting holes in the wood.
6. Sledgehammer.

Now you can begin the main stage of work.

Sequence of work

The process of raising a wooden house depends: firstly, on the type of foundation, and secondly, on the type of house.

Type of foundation. Pouring under a wooden house strip foundation or make it columnar. In the first case, it is necessary to prepare places for installing jacks under the house, and in the second free space quite enough to lift the building.

House type. Under a five-wall or six-wall it is necessary to make a support for the wall dividing the house. Raising the four-wall is not so troublesome.
Now let's look at how to raise a house on jacks.

Since the work is complex, you need to follow the recommendations:

1. When using a jack to lift a wooden house, you need to check the condition of the log against which it will rest - it must not be rotten and strong. If this check is not performed, then at the most crucial moment the thrust head of the jack can be pressed into the trunk, as a result of which the entire structure can become warped and even crumble. A metal plate must be installed between the log and the lifting mechanism.
2. Depending on the lifting capacity of the jack, its dimensions change, as a result of which the supporting area of ​​the device can be very small. If this is the case in your case, then it is extremely important to provide a reliable site for its installation. It is recommended to compact loose soil.
3. It is regularly necessary to check the position of the house to see if it has begun to shift. If a displacement is detected, work must be stopped immediately until the cause is determined. Then the house is leveled and its rise continues.
4. You must not be under the house being lifted! You also need to make sure that an accidentally falling log does not crush your leg or arm.

Raising a house with jacks

Now let's look at how to lift a house with a jack. It is important to adhere to the following sequence:

Preparing areas for installing jacks

1. When raising a house standing on a pile foundation, reliable supports for jacks are made. A notch is made in the strip base.
2. Near each support point, a sufficient quantity of prepared linings (slats, bars, plates) must be prepared.
3. The prepared areas in which the jacks will be installed are inspected. You need to try to lift the house so that the lift “takes its place” - then it will become clear how correctly the preparation was carried out.

Installing jacks and raising the house

1. The horizontal position is checked with water or laser level. It is very convenient to navigate along the slats hammered near each corner of the building - they mark the lower level of the house.
2. After checking and eliminating all defects, using prepared jacks for wooden houses, you can begin lifting the structure. The work is performed from one, lowest side of the building - using at least 2 lifting mechanisms, two people raise the house to a height of about 4 cm.

   The process of lifting a house with jacks and replacing the foundation - step by step video instructions

   Pads are installed (for safety, and the house rises another 4 cm (total 8 cm)). A set of pads is placed between the foundation (or a new support is laid out), and the structure is lowered onto them.

   It is important! You can raise the house with just one lift, but this is very inconvenient - you will have to regularly rearrange the device, and the height of a single lift will be only 2-3 cm.

3. Further work is carried out on the opposite side of the house. Lifts are installed, and, just like in the first case, the house is raised. Gradually, checking the position of the structure, it is lifted to a height of up to 16 cm, placing new supports under the jack. It is better not to use the adjustable rod of the device as an alternative, since such actions reduce the supporting stability of the device.
4. The sequence of work is repeated until the house is raised to the desired height.

It is important! With help lifting mechanisms(without the use of special equipment) a wooden house can be raised to a height of no more than 60 cm.

Now you can replace the rotted crown log or repair the foundation.

Preparing the house for return to the foundation

Even if the house was raised only to replace a rotted crown, it is necessary to check the condition of the foundation, whether it is strip, column or screw. All damaged or dilapidated parts of the foundation must be repaired.

It is important! Screw foundation has a limited service life. If at least one support is damaged by corrosion, it is better to replace all the piles.

House on a new foundation

Having completed restoration work, due to which the house was raised, it is returned to the foundation, on top of which waterproofing material is laid.

• as with lifting, rushing is not allowed during lowering. Each side is lowered alternately a short distance;
• the next stage of action depends on what kind of foundation it was - lifts are removed from the belt, and the openings are filled with concrete.

All that remains is to connect the communications and, if necessary, seal the roof around the chimney.

The topic of this short note prompted me from a question asked in a personal message at the farm: “I’m building one, how to raise a 5-meter wall when building with a platform.”

There are two main ways to build a modern frame house. The first is called “balloon” and the second is called “platform”. Balloon, an ancient and traditional method, when the wall is assembled stand by column, that is, each stand is placed vertically separately, then the remaining elements. In the 20th century, in the USA, the balloon was almost completely replaced by the “platform”, when the wall is assembled “lying” on the ceiling, and then raised vertically as a single, finished section.

But the topic of this note is not how these two technologies differ and which is better. At one time, there was a lot of controversy at the farm about the fact that the platform was inconvenient precisely because in order to lift a fairly heavy piece of the wall and place it vertically, the involvement of several people was required.

In reality, when building from a dry board, 2 people can quite easily lift a 6-meter wall (if it is not covered with slabs). That is, 2-3 people, as a rule, are always enough so that the question “how to raise a wall when building on a platform” does not worry you.

However, sometimes it happens that there is nowhere to take extra hands, or the wall is much heavier (longer, lined with heavy slabs, etc.)

In such cases, the following device comes to the rescue

“Fishing Rod” for lifting frame walls

Like many other things, the fishing rod was spotted at American construction sites. The truth is in an “industrial” version. Here is a video that shows both the fishing rod itself and the principle of its operation

True, there are more fun ways

Of course, the inquisitive Russian mind immediately decided to master the principle of the “fishing rod” and how it can be “collectively farmed” right at a construction site. Moreover, the principle itself has no secrets:

In fact, everything can be done even simpler, and apart from a cable, a hand winch and a couple of rollers, you basically don’t even need to buy anything.

The furthest along in “fishing rod” issues was a forum user under the nickname Vladimir113, who not only made his own “fishing rod” but also shared the details of its design, which I present below.

Actually, there is nothing more to add, except perhaps a short video about the operation of this homemade fishing rod.

Although no, there is still something to add. Take your time to make a fishing rod! I repeat - 2-3 people in 90% of cases will be enough to lift a section of the wall. So try it first, and then decide whether you need a fishing rod or not. I can say that for me personally, the winch, purchased specifically for this purpose, remained in the box.

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Walls are one of the main structural elements of a frame house. They have a complex structure, require the use of several types of materials and require strict adherence to work technology during installation. In order for the construction result to please you for many years, you cannot do without some theoretical knowledge.

The initial stage of wall construction is frame assembly

The frame determines the geometry of the house, ensures its rigidity and safety. That is why it is so important to choose the right building material for it and follow the construction technology.

Bottom trim - material used and preparation for installation

A week after pouring the foundation, you can begin laying bottom trim. It provides support for future walls and connects them to the foundation. Most often it is made of timber with a rectangular cross-section of 150x200 mm.

You can choose between solid and laminated timber. Their main differences are strength and price. Glued laminated timber can withstand heavy loads, but its price is higher than that of solid timber.

Immediately before laying the strapping, be sure to check the evenness of the foundation. If the horizontal line is maintained, begin waterproofing work. For this, bitumen or roofing felt is used.

Note! If the horizontal deviation is more than 10 mm, a mortar is used. If the deviation is less than 10 mm, planks are placed under the harness.

Connecting the beams of the lower frame and fixing it to the foundation

The frame is attached to the foundation using anchor bolts. Holes for them are made in the beams and foundation at a distance of 1-1.2 m from each other. Anchors must have a diameter of 12-16 mm and enter the concrete to a depth of at least 100 mm. Choose anchor bolts with a hex nut and a wide washer.

The beams can be connected to each other in several ways. Particular attention should be paid to the corners. The following connection types are suitable for these areas:

• “half a tree” and “in the paw”;
• "dovetail";
• "root thorn".

The last two options are reliable, but labor-intensive. That is why in practice “half-tree” and “claw” joints are widely used.

Half-tree connection involves sawing out part of the timber. The height of the cut is equal to ½ of the thickness of the lumber, and the depth is equal to its full thickness. The “paw” connection is made in the same way, but the cut is made at an angle. As a result, the protruding part of the beam has a trapezoidal shape.

In this case, the beams are additionally reinforced with reinforced metal corners and 120-150 mm nails. You can also use a dowel - a wooden pin connecting the beams to each other. It should be slightly smaller in height and diameter than the hole previously prepared for it. This requirement is connected with the subsequent shrinkage of the frame house.

Installation of vertical racks

Vertical frame posts begin to be installed from the corners. To fix the corner elements on the lower trim, reinforced metal corners are used.

Racks on straight sections can be secured by complete or incomplete cutting or using the same steel corners. In this case, conventional products without additional reinforcement are suitable.

The cutting method involves cutting out special grooves in the strapping beams. Their width corresponds to the same size of the vertical post, and their height is equal to 30-50% of the thickness of the strapping beam. With complete cutting, the end of the rack is completely recessed into it to the selected height, with incomplete cutting - only partially. As a result of drinking, it takes on an L-shape.

Note! If you choose the cutting method, then the length of the racks corresponding to the height of the future walls must be increased by the height of two grooves.

The pitch of the racks largely depends on the pre-selected wall material.

Performing the top trim

The upper harness is performed in the same way as the lower one. Fastening the racks to its horizontal beam can also be done using metal corners or cutting. In this case, choose the method that has already been used when working with the lower harness.

It is important! The upper grooves for the racks should be cut strictly perpendicular to the lower ones. This will avoid distortion of the frame.

Each vertical post is not only inserted into the cut-out groove, but also additionally secured with two nails. They must be recessed into the frame element by at least 100 mm.

Jib bars - what are they for?

Jib beams are boards with a cross section of 25x100 mm. Fixed on the bars of the lower and upper trim and racks, they give the structure spatial rigidity.

It is important! Do not confuse long struts that connect multiple posts with short struts within a single vertical member.

The jibs are installed at an angle of 45-60°, cutting grooves for them in the frame. In places where they drank, they are additionally fixed with two nails. For walls up to 6 m long, two jibs directed from the center of the lower frame to the two upper corners are sufficient. For longer walls, their number can also be increased.

Walls of frame houses - their structure and construction technologies

Walls erected in compliance with the technology provide a comfortable microclimate in the house, ample opportunities for decorating its interior and safety.

Layer-by-layer wall construction

All external walls of frame houses are a “pie” made of various materials. They form it as follows:

1. The frame fixed to the foundation is covered from the outside with sheathing material.
2. It is covered with a layer of waterproofing.
3. A lath is attached over the waterproofing for installation of façade finishing material.
4. Insulation is laid inside between the frame posts.
5. Cover it with a vapor barrier material.
6. Install the internal wall cladding. Usually it serves as the basis for working with finishing materials.

The result is a multi-layer “pie” of the wall, which demonstrates high strength and insulation characteristics. However, the entire range of work does not always take place. Its completeness depends on the chosen construction technology.

Canadian and Finnish technologies for raising the walls of frame houses

Canadian and Finnish frame construction technologies make it possible to build a residential building from environmentally friendly building materials in a short time. However, they have one fundamental difference. It lies in the method of raising the load-bearing walls of a frame house.

Finnish technology involves performing all work on the construction of walls - from installing the frame to vapor barrier - directly at the construction site.

Canadian technology allows you to further reduce the construction time of a house through the use of ready-made SIP panels. Usually they are a “pie” of two layers of sheathing material and insulation laid between them. The thickness of the panels and the materials used to make them may vary.

Note! After installing the frame, insulating it and covering it with finishing material, the thickness of the walls for central Russia is 150-200 mm.

External wall cladding

Taking on a large load, the outer cladding of the wall frame ensures the rigidity of the structure and its stability during operation. Properly selected building materials for cladding will allow the walls to maintain their shape for many years and withstand negative external factors.

Application of OSB-3 boards in frame construction

OSB-3 boards (OSP-3) are moisture-resistant oriented strand boards of increased rigidity. They are made by pressing and gluing three to four layers of wood chips. In each layer it has a different direction, which gives the material increased rigidity.

Advantages of OSB-3 boards:

• The optimum ratio of price and quality.
• Easy to process - cutting, drilling, grinding.
• Suitable for using various fastening elements - nails, screws, dowels, etc.
• Resistant to splitting even when fasteners are used close to the edge of the slab.
• Do not deform due to temperature changes and various atmospheric conditions.

Main disadvantage– low vapor permeability. The slab walls “don’t breathe.”

Of no small importance is the fact that synthetic resins are used for gluing chips. This means that the cladding material can release formaldehyde and phenol into the air. However, stoves made according to European standards are safe for humans.

Note! The most environmentally friendly material is the one with markings E0 And E1.

Cement particle boards (CSP)

DSP is a material based on a mixture of wood chips and high-grade cement. To improve its performance properties, special additives are included in the composition.

Cement particle boards have the following advantages:

• Resistant to moisture and, accordingly, to mold formation.
• They are not afraid of rodents.
• Environmentally friendly. They do not release harmful substances into the air.
• Fireproof, belong to the category of low-flammable materials.
• Retains heat well.
• They have good vapor permeability and are breathable.
• When covering the frame, a flat surface is formed.

In contrast to the advantages of DSPs, they also have disadvantages:

• Heavy weight.
• Difficulty in processing the material. Drilling and cutting require a lot of physical effort. At the same time, a lot of dust is generated during the work.
• High price.

Fiberboard for external cladding

Fiberboard is wood fibers pressed into a board. As in the production of OSB, they are laid in several layers, in each of which the fibers have their own direction. No adhesives are used. Enough pressure, exposure to high temperatures and resins contained in coniferous wood.

What characterizes this material on the positive side?

• It provides good heat and sound insulation of rooms.
• Environmentally friendly.
• The slabs are light in weight.
• Good vapor permeability.

Basic lack of fiberboard– low rigidity index. When using this material, it is necessary to install jibs and select rigid internal lining.

Covering the frame with plywood

Plywood is a sheet material made from several layers of veneer that are glued together. In frame houses, regular walls made of moisture-resistant plywood have a thickness of at least 12 mm.

Advantages of plywood:

• not afraid of low temperatures;
• easy to process;
• high compressive strength;
• affordable price.

The disadvantages of plywood include its flammability, the presence of synthetic resins, and its tendency to chip.

Attaching the outer skin to the frame

Attaching the outer skin to the frame is done according to general rules.

• The presence of a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between the plates (sheets) is mandatory.
• Their joints should be in the middle of the frame beam.
• To fasten the sheathing, self-tapping screws 55-70 cm long are used. At the same time, they must go into the frame stud to a depth of at least 40 mm.
• Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab.
• Fixation of sheets or slabs is carried out in increments of 15 cm - along the edge, in 30 cm - in the center.

Since you will be using a huge number of fasteners, stock up on high-quality power tools in advance.

Hydro-wind protection of the external walls of the house

The insulation in the “pie” must be reliably protected from moisture. Only under this condition will it be able to perform its direct function without deteriorating its performance properties.

On the outside of the walls, for these purposes they use superdiffusion membranes. Their complex structure makes it possible to remove steam from the insulation and at the same time prevent moisture from penetrating into it from the street. Low breathability makes this material windproof.

Note! Superdiffusion membranes are not a vapor barrier material, but a vapor-permeable waterproofing material. This must be understood, since the vapor barrier completely prevents the penetration of steam through itself.

The membrane is laid without gaps on the sheathing and secured with staples using a construction stapler. When laying rolled material, overlap adjacent strips by 10-15 cm on all sides. Then all seams are taped with special tape.

Thermal insulation of walls - choice of material and its installation

Properly selected one provides not only a comfortable microclimate in it at any time of the year. Low thermal conductivity and proper placement of the material significantly reduce energy costs.

One of the main thermal insulation materials used in frame construction is mineral wool. It retains heat well, provides high-quality sound insulation, but is afraid of getting wet and releases harmful substances into the air in small quantities. The optimal density of mineral wool for frame walls is 30-50 kg/m3. m.

When working with mineral wool, the use of personal protective equipment is mandatory.

In terms of performance properties, it is superior to cellulose with special impregnation. It is not afraid of getting wet, is environmentally friendly and non-flammable, and perfectly fills all voids. However, you will have to hire experienced specialists to install ecowool.

Polystyrene foam is a moisture-resistant and economical material that does not emit any substances and does not shrink. However, its fragility, which increases at low temperatures, and flammability make it unclaimed in frame construction. Much more practical and more resistant to external influences is the “relative” of polystyrene foam - extruded polystyrene foam.

Any insulation is placed between the frame posts like this: tightly so that there are no voids left and gaps.

Vapor barrier material for walls

The vapor barrier is designed to protect the insulation from steam that can penetrate into it from the living space. Here we are already talking about insulation as a reliable barrier to moisture. The complex design of the wall involves laying a vapor barrier only on the “warm” side.

The most suitable option is dense (at least 200 microns) polyethylene film. It is fixed to the frame using a construction stapler.

The vapor barrier material must be installed as tightly as possible. To do this, carefully glue all its joints and places where communications are laid.

Internal frame lining

For the internal cladding of the frame, OSB boards (9 mm) or moisture-resistant plasterboard (12.5 mm) can be used. At the same time, plasterboard is more pliable in work, but OSB boards give the walls additional rigidity. Their use for internal and external cladding eliminates the need to install jibs.

Oriented wood boards for interior cladding are installed in the same way as for exterior cladding. The technology for working with drywall is slightly different. Sheathing can be done in several ways:

1. Attach the sheets directly to the frame posts, having previously reinforced them with horizontal beams with a section of 50x50 mm.
2. Install metal sheathing along the frame in increments of 40-50 cm.
3. Attaching drywall to a frame is the “American” way.

In this case, there should be no gaps between the sheets. The joints are subsequently puttied. Self-tapping screws are used to secure the casing.

Walls erected in accordance with frame construction technology are a good basis for durable finishing of the facade and rooms. Being confident in the reliability of the “skeleton” of the house, you can enjoy the possibilities of its decorative design.

Video: wall construction technology from A to Z

Question:

My wife and I decided to build a frame house with our own hands (in order to save money). But there are two of us and a teenage son. We are afraid that we will not be able to raise the walls without outside help. Maybe there is some way out of not involving builders?

Answer:

The technology for constructing a frame house makes it possible to make do with limited resources and without the use of heavy equipment. I believe that the optimal number of workers on a site is 3-4 people, which is quite enough for almost any work and covers risks such as “getting sick,” “drinking,” or “quitting.” Typically, this is one foreman, two ordinary carpenters and one trainee.

In your case, as I understand it, there is a serious budget constraint and this approach seems wasteful. Accordingly, here I can advise the following:

1. Think about a one-story frame house, perhaps with an attic - this will simplify operations with moving materials across floors and reduce the amount of high-rise work.
2. Limit the height of the walls to 2.7 - 3.0 m. This is not an unnecessary reminder, because... I sometimes have to deal with one-story houses with walls up to five (!) meters high. You understand that a six-meter section of such a wall cannot be lifted even by four adults who are never frail.
3. Use kiln-dried lumber - they are not only better, but also significantly lighter than “natural moisture” boards. If your budget allows, then order a sharpening - the boards will become smoother and even lighter (due to a slight reduction in the cross-section).
4. Break long walls into shorter sections 3-4 meters long. Naturally, such a division should not affect the structural rigidity of the wall. It is better if this division is made at the level of the structural design.
5. Crossbars and jibs can be installed on walls even after lifting. On the one hand, this is technically more difficult, but on the other, it will be easier to lift the wall. Sheathe the walls after lifting - OSB and MDVP have considerable weight.
6. To lift frame walls, you can use a special tool - the so-called “fishing rod”. However, if you are not engaged in the construction of frame houses professionally, then its practical use may be unjustified.
7. If you are planning to insulate walls with 200 mm, then think about the “150 mm in studs, 50 mm in cross frame” scheme. It's clear. that a wall made of 50x150 boards is a quarter lighter than a wall made of 50x200 boards, and this is not small. If you need to insulate by 250 mm, then you can use two cross frames - on the outer and inner sides of the external walls.

And yet, if possible, call your neighbors in the area for help. For some reason it seems to me that they will not refuse the pleasure of warming up;)

Good day, dear visitors and readers of the blog!

I haven’t written new articles on the site for a long time; I’m still busy building a house. Now that I have some free time, I immediately decided to tell you how I assembled the walls of my house.

In general, from this material you will learn how to assemble the walls of a frame house using platform technology. I will try to explain everything as clearly as possible, so that everyone who decides to build in this way does everything correctly, and the buildings please the creator during operation.

Also at the end of the article you will find a table with which you can select the required cross-section of frame posts depending on the type of building.

By tradition, the outline of the article:

1. Drawing up a plan for the placement of racks and the location of walls;
2. We lay out the wall trim;
3. Marking frame walls;
4. Preparation of wall parts;
5. Assembly of window and door openings;
6. Complete wall assembly;
7. Jib insert;
8. Raising frame walls;
9. Assembly diagram of a fishing rod for lifting walls;
10. Assembly and joining of frame walls;
11. Leveling walls;
12. Calculation of the cross-section of frame posts.

Planning

Future door and window openings are located on the plan, think it through carefully, getting as close as possible to the floor plan of the house.

In this image you see how I did it, you can clearly see where I will have the frame posts. This will help you later when you prepare the parts at home.

Frame rack plan

I drew the plan in Visio, setting the required scale in advance. Therefore, it was not difficult for me to prepare the parts; all dimensions were calculated automatically. All I had to do was count each type of part, then saw the required number.

All the windows in my house are the same size and at the same level. This made it possible to reduce the number of different types of parts.

Lay out the wall trim

Once the house plan is ready, we begin to lay out the lower and upper wall frames. We lay out two boards, nailing them together with two nails, with the ability to pull them out.

When laying out the frames, we follow the sequence, determining in advance which walls will be raised first and which ones second. In my case they were raised first long walls, then short, after which I assembled the central load-bearing wall, and the last ones were the partitions.

Wall marking

After I prepared a plan for the racks of the house, the next stage began - the construction of frame walls. We begin to do this by marking the racks in kind.

To mark the walls, I used a template and tapping thread. I made the template myself, it looks like this:

Template for marking

I nailed two slats onto the block, 4 cm wide, the distance between the slats is 58 cm, this is the standard spacing of the racks in my house. And the width of the slats is determined by the thickness of the board; in the frame I used a 40x150 mm board.

To mark the racks in real life, the racks of the door and window openings are first marked; we will not move or remove them. Then the places where the internal walls adjoin the external ones, and the places where the internal walls connect to each other are marked. The main types of connections are shown in this figure.

After marking the immovable and obligatory parts of the frame walls, I began marking the racks. I started at the corner post and used a template to work my way around all the walls. Thus, I marked the locations of the racks on the upper and lower trim.

It is necessary to mark it on both boards, since when assembling frame walls, the construction principle of which is made using platform technology, you will ensure that the condition of rectangularity of all walls is met. All that remains is to level the wall.

Preparing wall parts

The next stage in the construction of walls will be the preparation of wall parts - frame racks, crossbars, window sill and over-window boards.

Knowing that there will be a lot of parts, it is worth getting a miter saw. It will not only significantly help in the construction of the walls of the house, but will also be useful in the future, believe me, this is a useful tool, I have never regretted that I purchased a trim saw.

I have a Makita saw, with a broach, it cuts wood like butter, the cut is very precise and clean. In order to saw long boards, I mounted it on six-meter boards, and aligned the planes so that a board of any length was in the same plane with the plane of the saw table.

Makita LS0714 photo from the Internet, I’ll change mine later)))

If you made a plan on which each frame wall is located, the design of which includes many elements, then from it you can easily calculate how many elements you need. Which is exactly what I did.

Having set the stop at the required distance from the saw blade, I sawed off the entire set of posts or crossbars and moved on to the next size. There is no photo of my design, I’ll post Alexey’s photo, the design is similar, only my table was narrower and longer))

I just had a long workbench like this...

When all the parts were ready, I took the required number of them to the construction site and built the frame.

Assembly of openings

The assembly of each frame wall begins with the assembly of the openings. The opening must be assembled according to certain rules. In this image you can see the order of assembling the window opening

Window opening diagram

I used 150x40 mm double crossbars in the walls, this was sufficient in my case. I also laid thermolen tape between the double racks to prevent the appearance of through gaps, this can be seen in some photos.

There is also a rule for the number of nails - one nail for every 5 cm of connection. Thus, three 90-100 mm nails are driven onto a 150 mm board. Longer nails will be unnecessary; these will suffice.

The doorway is assembled in almost the same way as the window, differing in that it does not have lower posts and window sill boards.

When the openings are ready, all that remains is to separate the lower and upper trim of the frame wall and put together the entire wall.

The photo shows that Alexey assembled the openings in a slightly different way, also correct

Jib insert

Since I planned to build the walls of the house without external slab sheathing, a prerequisite was to correctly insert the jib into the wall frame.

The photo shows a low attic wall, it clearly shows how the jib should stand and where it is embedded

I think you can already imagine how the walls of a frame house are constructed depending on their design features. The walls are covered with slabs or boards diagonally on the outside or on the inside. There are also walls without cladding - with inset jibs. I chose this option.

In order to explain the entire process of inserting the jib, I have prepared a short video explaining everything as clearly as possible. This is how Larry cuts the jib, I did the same))

Video insert of jib in the process of preparation

The jib is not nailed down completely after insertion. Just the bottom side and a couple of nails into the next post. The remaining nails can be baited, this will help in the future to hammer them in using only one hand, the other, for example, holding a wall, or yourself)))

Lifting walls

Having assembled two opposite walls, I called my assistants, and we raised the first walls of my house. This is an unforgettable feeling, it seems like it’s just a frame of walls, but you’re already starting to feel that the process is inexorably moving forward!

The lifting order is as follows:

1. We raise the long walls;
2. We raise short walls;
3. We raise load-bearing internal walls;
4. We raise the partitions.

The internal walls of a frame house are assembled from 40x100 boards, this is enough to provide the necessary strength, and, if necessary, add sound insulation to the walls.

Moreover, a fishing rod for lifting frame walls can help you; this invention was invented by builders who lift walls alone. Still, the weight of the wall is quite large, and there is no desire to drop the wall in the opposite direction.

You can see a photo of the fishing rod here; Alexey used it.

The design of the fishing rod is very clear from the photo

And here is a photo of the fishing rod itself, and the process of working with it.

And actually lifting the walls with a fishing rod is not as fun as doing it alone with your hands)))

Joining and assembly of frame walls

When all the walls of the frame are assembled, the frame walls are assembled and joined. This process ensures that all walls are connected by a second top frame, which differs from the first by the opposite length.

In this way, it seems to bandage the whole house and does not allow the walls to separate or move away from each other.

Here you can most clearly see the principle of tying the walls of the frame; the corners of the house are also assembled (This is the corner of the internal walls)

The photo shows how I bandaged the walls. For yourself, you need to remember that the joints of the strappings must be spaced at a distance of at least two posts.

Here it is - the joint of the trim boards

And one more thing, I used mineral wool as insulation. This insulation requires a vapor barrier from inside the house, so I pre-installed a strip of vapor barrier between the top frame trims.

I don’t remember where I read this from, but I definitely remember that cotton wool requires an “umbrella” over itself in the form of a vapor barrier. I also laid polyethylene in the places where the internal walls adjoin the external ones, so that I would not have to worry about going around the racks.

Alignment of frame walls

The moment came when all the walls of the floor were assembled. All that remains is to level the walls and secure the jibs completely. We level all the walls, nail all the jibs, and voila, the floor frame is ready, the assembly of the walls of the frame house is completed, you can begin building the upper floor of the house.

For ease of use of the level, I made a simple device, a kind of extension cord for the level. It’s very simple to use: we press it against the upper and lower straps, shout to the assistant where to push the wall, when the level is “caught”, we nail the upper end of the jib.

Table for calculating the section of the rack

Yes, I also promised to provide a table for selecting the required section of the rack, depending on the pitch and height of the building, please:

This table is taken from the Code of Practice SP 31-105-2002 clause 7.2.3, read it, it’s a very useful thing!

As you can see, I chose the right board, and after construction I was convinced that everything was correct, the house was solid, even without interior decoration. I recently finished the subfloor of the house, so now the effect of the frame structure has been completely eliminated. The house seemed to be “solidified.”

Well, I think it’s time to finish, I think after reading the article you will not be intimidated by assembling the walls of a frame house, and you will be able to build something on your own site, I could)))