Why does the light go out? Knocks out plugs (automatic, RCD): when turning on devices and for other reasons, we troubleshoot. Exceeding rated load

The main function of a circuit breaker is to protect the network from overloads and short circuits. Situations often arise when the owners of apartments and private houses have to solve the problem of why the machine in the control panel is knocked out and establish the reasons for such operations. Usually the whole matter is limited to replacing the machine with a higher denomination. However, such actions do not effectively resolve the issue, since the operation will occur even with an increased load on the wiring. As a result, the lines home network may burn out and fail. To take the most effective measures, you need to know the reasons that trigger the machine in each specific case.

The machine knocks out in the apartment reasons

Most common cause When the machine is triggered, it is considered to perform its main function - protecting electrical wiring from overloads. Each model has its own release, ranging from 6 amps and above. When several powerful devices are turned on simultaneously, the current setting is exceeded and the protective device is triggered. Most often, overload is caused by a washing machine, water heater and other household appliances.

This problem can be solved different ways. First of all, you should not allow powerful equipment to be turned on at the same time. If there is high-quality wiring with copper conductors and a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2, it is possible to install a more powerful machine.

In some cases, when the machine knocks out, the reasons may be related to a faulty household appliances. Therefore, the machine begins to knock out when it is turned on at the same time. If there is a serious breakdown, even appliances such as a kettle or computer can have a negative impact. To check this fact, you should turn off all devices one by one and see how the circuit breaker behaves. If it works normally, then the reason is one of household devices, which will trigger when turned on.

A fairly common cause is considered short circuit wiring. At some point the phase comes into contact with zero and the machine performs a second function - it protects against short circuits by triggering.

You can determine why the machine knocks out in a simple way. All devices must be turned off, and if the machine still works, then the wiring is faulty. It is recommended to start checking with sockets and switches, after which distribution boxes and lamps are checked, and at the very end the wires are checked. Usually the presence of a short circuit is determined using. However, especially difficult cases We recommend one capable of accurately and quickly detecting faults.

Sometimes unplanned operations occur due to Low quality the machine itself. The malfunction can be identified by replacing the device with a new device. In most cases, this allows you to effectively solve this problem.

When you turn on the lights the machine goes off

Quite often, at the moment the light is turned on, the input switch is knocked out, and the entire electrical network turns out to be de-energized. This malfunction may arise due to various reasons, and the most important of them is a malfunction in the connection of the chandelier, which uses conventional incandescent light bulbs with an E27 base. To identify possible malfunction You need to unscrew the lamps and inspect their bases for short circuits.

At the connection point of the chandelier, a contact burns out, which causes a short circuit and activation of the protective device. Sometimes it's all about the 12-volt transformer included in the design of the chandelier.

In some cases, the circuit breaker in the panel trips when the light bulb burns out. The machine knocks out under the influence of a short-term overload. With a low rating of 6-10 amperes, the likelihood of unplanned operation is high. Fluorescent and LED lamps are completely devoid of this effect.

The machine in the dashboard constantly knocks out

Quite often, owners of private country houses and apartments are wondering why the machine in the control panel knocks out without a load, in the absence visible reasons. In addition to the factors already discussed, a similar situation often arises due to overloads in the electrical outlet network.

When drawing up a project and installing electrical wiring, you cannot absolute precision set the load level on each group of sockets. Usually there is a separate circuit breaker for 3-4 sockets. However, if a powerful protective device is present, the value rated current connected sockets can be significantly lower.

In such a situation, an overload will certainly occur, especially if an iron, stove, microwave and other powerful equipment are simultaneously connected to the same group of outlets. As a result, the circuit breaker inevitably trips. It is possible to eliminate such cases by evenly distributing the powerful load between several outlet groups. If this is not possible, you should not connect several high-power consumers to the electrical network at once.

Sometimes it happens that the machine is knocked out and does not turn back on. Here the reason may be the thermal release, which gets very hot. To turn the device back on, just let it cool down and it will work normally again. The machine is often triggered by a faulty device that consumes increased current. As a result, the network is overloaded and the circuit breaker is knocked out. The solution to the problem, as already noted, is to turn on the devices one by one until the faulty one is discovered among them.

It happens that the machine itself is not connected correctly. Wires that are loosely tightened in the terminals lead to heating of this place and the activation of the thermal release. The reason is visible to the naked eye when not only the wire insulation becomes burnt, but also the body of the device.

Suddenly, out of the blue, the light went out. Another option: turn on Electric kettle- he does not work. Another example: when entering an apartment, you press the switch key - it doesn’t get any brighter.

The light is gone. It is not in the room, or in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the hallway, or anywhere in the apartment. Possible situations million. There is only one reason - lack of electricity. This is a clear fact, it is obvious.

Causes of power outage

Don’t immediately panic and call the emergency services or a familiar electrician. Perhaps the reason is trivial, we can handle it ourselves. Loss of electricity is an unpleasant, often unexpected moment. But there are only two reasons for his absence:

• Power supply is temporarily limited. Work is underway on a section of the electrical network - city, street, public, or an accident has occurred;
• Malfunction of apartment wiring, equipment, household appliances or appliances located inside.

Locate the cause of the power loss. Determine the boundaries of its possible location.

Try turning the lights on different rooms. Check the presence of voltage in the sockets with a special pointer (you can use a multimeter for this), you can use table lamp, hair dryer, other portable device. Pay attention to equipment that is constantly connected to the network. Do the standby indicators on household appliances light up, or does the clock display on the microwave oven?

In the evening, look out the window onto the street. Are the lights visible in the windows of neighboring houses? Are they turned on? Street lights? If they don’t light up, it means there is no reason to worry. Otherwise, trouble is much closer than it seems.

If there is no light not only in your apartment, but in the entire house or area, then all you can do is wait. You can call special services and find out the reason for the blackout.

During daylight hours, go out onto the landing. Is the site lighting working? Call your neighbors. Do they have light? Look at the floor electrical panel. Are the discs spinning, are the indicators on the meters lit? If not, then don’t worry – you’re not the only one suffering from a lack of electricity. If yes, then the reason most likely concerns only your apartment.

There is no electricity only in the apartment

The scope of the search narrowed. It doesn’t matter whether the apartment is partially or completely de-energized, you should first look at the condition of the protection devices. Perhaps they were the ones who worked. As they say, “the traffic jams have been knocked out.”

Important! If the “plugs have been knocked out” as a result of flooding, burning of wiring, there is a smell, pops, sparks - these are reasons to contact a specialist. No DIY - call an electrician.

Protection devices, no matter what type or type they are, are located in electrical panel. There is also a meter installed there that records the energy consumed, and readings are taken from it for transmission to the energy supply company.

Protection devices are always located in the electric brush

Where are the traffic jams?

Possible location:

• In the apartment. The shield is usually located in the corridor, next to front door. Sometimes, after finishing or repair, it is hidden - put away in a niche or dressing room;

• Outside the apartment- on landing or in separate room. The protection devices are located there, only cables enter the apartment;

• Combined. Counter, general machine or switch, installed in a floor cabinet. Household network protection devices - in apartments.

The shield has been found. It is necessary to inspect it first. There are many options for electrical panels by type, size, number of devices, their characteristics and location.

Applicable protection devices:

What do they protect from?

The above devices perform one or simultaneously both protection functions: from overload, from electric leakage.

Overload– this is exceeding the permissible power. Many household appliances and lighting work simultaneously. This also includes a short circuit.

Electrical leakage– occurs when wire insulation is damaged. Its value is not sufficient for the circuit breaker to operate. But if the leak occurs on a housing made of conductive material, then accidentally touching it will cause an unpleasantly noticeable electric shock.

A quick inspection will reveal a used machine or plug. What immediately catches your eye?

How to turn on traffic jams

Under no circumstances should you immediately turn on the plug or cock the machine – The reason for the shutdown is not yet known. Perhaps she is more serious than she seems. Switching on without finding out the reason may cause the protection to trigger again.

Again we narrow the boundaries of possible detection of the fault. We divide the electrical network of the apartment into two sections. The first is electrical wiring, including protection devices, the second is household appliances connected to sockets and lighting.

The reason that the traffic jams were knocked out could be malfunction of household appliances , and simultaneous operation of several powerful consumers – washing machine and water heater, electric kettle and microwave oven.

By turning them off, we remove the load from the network. Turn off the lighting. We turn off household appliances by pulling out the plugs network cords from sockets. Don't forget about hidden sockets, if any, located behind appliances, especially in the kitchen and bathroom.

All electrical appliances must be unplugged from the sockets.

At the same time, pay attention to condition of sockets, plugs, power cords . Perhaps somewhere it burned, melted, and a smell appeared. If you find something similar, it is likely that this is the cause you are looking for. Maybe it’s not them, but it’s worth drawing appropriate conclusions about further replacement or repair of these parts.

Carefully check the condition of sockets and wires!

We disconnected everything we could, assessed the condition of the connection points, and limited the location of the fault to the electrical wiring and protection devices. It's time to turn on the plugs.

Before doing this, you should make sure that there is no short circuit on the wires coming from the plugs or circuit breakers, and evaluate the insulation resistance of the cables. To do this, measurements are taken.

Measurements allow you to identify problem areas of the wiring, if any. Finding or determining the location of a breakdown is easy using special devices- meters. But these devices are expensive and are not widely used by non-specialists.

Measuring short circuit loop parameters

You can restore the power supply without making measurements, but you should be prepared for the protection to be triggered again, with pops and even sparks. The following actions require an understanding of the basics of electrical engineering, the operating principle of protective devices, and knowledge of safety precautions.

Important! If you have doubts about your abilities, fear of electric current, you can only do this visual inspection without removing the covers of the shields, without touching the wires or contacts on the protection devices. Otherwise, seek help from a specialist.

Restoring functionality plugs with fusible insert is carried out by replacing them. The faulty plug is unscrewed from the socket and a new one is screwed in its place.

Replacing the fuse plug

With a composite plug, a new fuse-link is placed in a housing that is screwed into the socket.

Automatic traffic jams are turned on by pressing a larger button, usually white. The small red button turns off the electricity and is used to check the functionality of the device. To de-energize the wiring, you do not need to unscrew it.

Automatic switches, RCDs and differential circuit breakers are turned on by cocking the lever from the off position to the on position. The direction of inclusion is not necessarily from bottom to top, it can be from top to bottom, even from left to right and vice versa.

Attention! If the lever of the used machine is in the middle, then you must first move it to the off position, and only then cock it.

What to do after turning on the traffic jams?

When the load is removed, when all consumers are disconnected from the sockets and the lights are turned off, the necessary measurements are taken, repeated activation of the protection will clearly indicate a malfunction of the device itself. It needs to be replaced.

If the plugs haven't been knocked out, they and the wiring are fine. Therefore, the reason is in household appliances.

How to determine a malfunction without using instruments

If measurements have not been taken, it is necessary to disconnect the outgoing wires and turn on the machine. Repeated testing will indicate its malfunction. If the protection does not knock out, we are looking for a fault in the wiring.

Without using instruments, it will only be possible to determine problem area wiring. When voltage is applied to it, the protection device will operate again.

Malfunction household appliances or equipment also triggers the plugs.

If the cause of the malfunction is not in the wiring or plugs, then you should turn on the previously disconnected devices one by one and monitor the condition of the protection devices. If any of them work, then the reason is in the device that was just connected.

If it seems that the problem is with household appliances, then it is recommended to turn them on one at a time and check the plugs. If it’s a technical issue, then when you turn it on, the plugs will come out again

Perhaps the cause will not be discovered. This is the worst of possible option when the reason is unclear. There is no way to do this without taking measurements. Although perhaps this is false alarm protection.

Some troubleshooting features

Electrical energy from the panel to consumer devices is distributed along the cores of cables or wires. The operating principle of household appliances is based on the effect that results from the flow of electric current through a conductor, semiconductor, liquid, gas, etc. These are heating, glow, magnetic field, and others.

A little bit of theory

Very simplified, you can consider the area electrical circuit like a plumbing. The switch or machine will be a tap. The pipe in front of the tap is a straight wire, phase or simply “phase”. The pipe after the tap is reverse, zero or simply “zero”.

For water to flow, you need to open the tap. It's the same with wires. The phase wire has "pressure" electric charges. We close the circuit with a switch, electricity flows through the device, does useful work and returns through the neutral wire.

Phase wires extend from the protection devices. The voltage indicator lights up on them. The presence of a glow on the contact indicates the presence of voltage.

Circuit breakers can have multiple poles. Two-pole ones are used for single-phase 220V wiring, three-pole ones for three-phase 380V.

The presence of voltage at the contacts of protection devices, switches, sockets, lamps is checked with a two-pole indicator, its value is checked with a voltmeter or multimeter in voltage measurement mode.

The presence of voltage indicates the serviceability of the wiring, but does not indicate its condition.

The absence of voltage indicates a possible poor contact - burnt, melted, oxidized or broken wire. You can find out in which cable core the break occurred by checking or using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode.

Dialing device

Important! It is necessary to carry out the dialing only when the voltage is turned off.

Allows you to find the route along which the wires are laid and the location possible rupture. The wiring finder is led along the surface of the wall. The presence of live wires is indicated by a glow, a sound signal or an indication on the screen.

Here we consider only general methods fault detection and methods for restoring power supply. Regardless of the reason for knocking out plugs, triggering automatic machines or RCDs, you should pay attention to the condition electrical wiring. Perhaps she demands partial repair or complete replacement.

The plugs are knocked out, how to turn them on

Happens sometimes in life unpleasant situations when the machine near the meter suddenly turns off. Surely many have encountered this. Let's try to figure out together why this happens.

First, we must understand that a machine gun is a device that protects electrical lines, coming after it. That is, when it turns off, it signals that there is a problem somewhere on the line.

There may be several reasons, from a banal malfunction of any electrical appliance to a bad contact in the meter or in the machine itself.

Faulty household appliance

In this case, everything is simple. If, when you turn on, say, an iron, the machine that is always running turns off, then, clearly, the problem is in the iron. This rule is true in the case of instantaneous shutdown of the machine. That is, they inserted the plug into the socket - the light disappeared. By the way, the extension cord through which you are going to connect the iron is also an electrical appliance. If you turned on the iron and the machine turned off after a while, the reason may be different. Read below.

Huge pressure

I recently got into this situation myself. An ordinary morning. The washing machine is running, someone is drying their hair with a hairdryer, the kettle and microwave are turned on periodically. Everything is as usual. And then again - there is no light. I'm starting to figure it out.

Hairdryer - 2.5 kW, kettle - 2 kW, microwave - 1 kW, refrigerator, TV, lighting - well, let's say 0.5 kW, washing machine - and this is where the dog is buried. Most of the time, the washing machine operates with a not very powerful electric motor, up to 0.5 kW. But periodically, a 1.5 kW heating element is turned on to heat the water. So it turned out that at some point the power consumption increased to 7.5 kW. And the input circuit breaker in my house is rated at 16 Amps. 16A x 220V = 3520W. And I use 7500W for it. More than twice the rated power of the machine. Naturally, from such a load the machine warmed up and the thermal relay activated. There is an incorrect load distribution.

Bad wiring

You can write endlessly here. Each case of a machine turning off due to poor wiring is unique. Only a professional electrician should deal with such cases. I will list several reasons: poor-quality twists in junction boxes, connection of copper and aluminum, crushed or kinked cable, poor connections when moving sockets or switches, undersized wire cross-section when moving or adding sockets, incorrectly selected cable type, etc.

The question is: who will say when the fire department will have to be called in the next photo.

Faulty machine

The same type of machine guns issued by different manufacturers, differs in the same way as sausage from different meat processing plants. Someone, in order to attract low-income buyers, reduces the price of the machine as much as possible. Using cheap plastic and the wrong metal in production, underestimating the cross-section of the internal conductors. Someone is collecting an outright fake in the basement. And it turns out that the machine, after one or two operations, becomes unusable. And it starts to work from a banal vacuum cleaner. Or it stops turning on or off altogether. In such cases, only replacement will help.

Attention! In most cases, replacing a machine with a machine of a higher denomination is strictly prohibited. Circuit breaker protects cable line, and not the devices connected to it.

And also, do not forget to periodically, once a year, tighten the screws on the terminals of the machines.

Electric meter

Sealed terminals of the electric meter are of course good, no one will be able to rob the energy supply company. Let's leave out the moral component, although I am still offended by the completely unfounded suspicions of me and many other honest citizens of stealing electricity. If there are terminals, then they need to be periodically checked and tightened. Energy companies They don’t do this; it’s impossible to hold out on your own due to the filling. And it turns out that in half of the meters the wire clamp weakens over time. We then wonder why the shields in the entrances burn out.

So, the conclusion of the article.

• A circuit breaker is a device that reacts to a fault. If he knocks out, then there is a problem.
• In most cases, replacing the machine does not change anything.
• Without knowledge of electrical engineering and without sufficient work experience, it is almost impossible to figure out the fault on your own.

The tripping of a circuit breaker is the first sign of problems in the energy supply of a house or apartment; their solution cannot be delayed.

In the case of infrequent outages, residents rarely turn to electricians to check or because they believe that there are no real complications. In most cases, the machine simply turns on again and everything returns to normal. But this approach is not correct, since further failures are guaranteed, because the real reason has not been eliminated, which means the wiring may burn out, the circuit breaker itself may melt, or the electrical appliance may burn out.

Let's look at the root causes of machine guns knocking out on the dashboard and ways to solve the situation.

Possible reasons for turning off the machine in the electrical panel

There are several sources of unstable operation of the machine. Some of them you can handle on your own, and some you need.

High wiring load

Network overload is the main culprit for knocking out the machine. The bimetallic strip inside the device heats up, opening the contact. This happens when several powerful devices are simultaneously connected to one electrical group (boiler, refrigerator, washing machine), and their total power reaches 17-20 Amperes. The machine is designed for a peak load of 16 Amps. The result of the simultaneous activation of a group of devices is that the circuit breaker trips, stopping the supply of electricity, maintaining the integrity of the electrical wiring.

There are four options to solve the problem:

install a more powerful machine, but there is a risk of ignition of the remaining old wiring: after all, the load remains the same and if the machine does not work, and the wires cannot withstand the greater load, then they may simply burn out;

avoid turning on several powerful devices at the same time;

distribute the power of the devices among different machines, but you will need to lay a new cable and install an additional socket;

replace the old wire with a new one of larger cross-section.

The last option is considered the most acceptable - it guarantees reliability and minimizes the risk of automatic shutdown in the future. The implementation of the plan is impossible without the help of a specialist.

Failure of a household appliance

The reason for shutting down the machine is the failure of used electrical appliances. It is necessary to determine which equipment is faulty. First, turn it off household appliances switched on until the machine is knocked out. Then connect one by one and observe which device the automation turns off the power again.

The machine can knock out when the refrigerator is turned on:

failed compressor;

malfunction of the start relay;

burnt out heating element evaporation unit"No Frost" systems.

When the machine on the meter is knocked out simultaneously with the start of the electric boiler, the root cause is the following malfunctions:

damage to the heating elements: the coolant comes into contact with the coil located inside;

the power cable is broken;

there is a breakdown to the body that occurs when exposed internal wiring boiler

Microwave ovens are characterized by the following problems that affect the operation of the circuit breaker:

defects in the operation of a transformer that converts voltage current from one type to another;

short circuit inside the magnetron.

Short circuit

A similar situation occurs when the phase wire is in contact with zero. The result is that the machine can knock out without load. This often happens after repairs or installation work with drilling holes in the walls where the cable is laid.

To prevent short circuits, it is necessary to inspect the areas that were affected during repairs. If damage to the wire is detected, it must be replaced with a new one.

Poor contact

If the automation starts to turn off without obvious reasons, the problem lies in the places where the wires are connected. The area of ​​the flaw is easy to determine: not far from the shield itself or near room sockets. First, you need to double-check all the clamps in the switchboard near the meter, especially if the input machine is knocked out. Next we move on to distribution boxes, sockets, and switches.

If, after rechecking all connections, it continues to knock out, then the problem lies directly in the malfunction of the automatic device, it requires replacement.

Other reasons for circuit breaker tripping

Knocking out can also be associated with a short-term increase in current when an incandescent light bulb burns out. Cases are especially common when installed switch designed for low power - up to 10 Amperes.

There are cases when the machine knocks out when the voltage stabilizer is turned on, which is due to technical features the latter. When they are turned on, a current is generated that exceeds the value of the existing circuit breaker. Remember that inexpensive stabilizers often fail, are unreliable, and therefore often break.

Despite the fact that at first glance it seems like the problem can be easily solved, repairs and replacements should only be carried out by a professional electrician. Otherwise, not only the electrical appliance may be damaged, but also all the wiring will ignite or melt.

The LuxEnergoService company provides comprehensive maintenance services electrical networks in apartments and private houses. The masters of our staff have the appropriate education and permission to perform electrical installation work, including with networks high voltage(more than 1000 V).

Everyone faces the problem of “cutting out the light.” Such an emergency occurs for many reasons, often to blame for the devices that perform the work of protecting the electrical network from possible overload and subsequent short circuit. A long time ago, fuses, which in fact resembled these “plugs,” were popularly dubbed “plugs.” Now this already familiar word has smoothly transferred to new, more advanced models - circuit breakers. A sudden power outage is always a nuisance, so it’s better for owners to find out early why the traffic jams are happening. Only by understanding the real cause can you cope with its consequences.

Traffic jams: ancient, old, modern

The oldest ceramic stopper is a black cylinder. This is a device with a fuse - a fuse link, which in the event of an overload (or short circuit) is destroyed, opening the network. After each emergency, she needs to replace the fuse, match the characteristics (current and voltage) of the old and new protection devices - mandatory requirement. Otherwise, an overestimated rating will not lead to disconnection from the network, but to burnout of the electrical wiring. In addition, it will be difficult to find the problem area.

A more modern plug is already automatic device, which has 2 buttons - white (gray) and red. The first ones are intended to turn on, the red one - for the exact opposite purpose - opening the circuit. This improved plug design allows quick recovery supply of electricity.

The new devices have a completely different look: these are miniature switches that are turned on by moving the lever to the upper position. Such machines are made of plastic; inside the devices there are two protective elements. This is a special bimetallic plate - a thermal release that protects the network from overload, and a coil with a core (electromagnetic release). The last device protects the electrical circuit from short circuit.

To quickly identify the culprit of the problem, it is advisable to install such protective devices in groups in circuits: for example, sockets for kitchen (room) appliances on one machine, and light sources on another.

Potential Trigger Causes

Why does it knock out traffic jams? If there is no additional (diffautomatic device, RCD) protection, then there are only three main reasons, these are:

• short circuit - instantaneous overload;
• exceeding the rated load (long-term);
• malfunction of the device itself.

Short circuit (SC)

The most dangerous consequences can be caused by a short circuit - a sudden and sharp jump in circuit current, which provokes instant heating of the wires. At the same time, the voltage drops, and the result is a wiring burnout or - even worse - a fire. Call this emergency situation Incorrect switching of equipment, damaged insulation, or water getting into the wiring can cause this.

The faster it reacts protective device, the less harm a short circuit will cause. There are incidents that are familiar to many. For example, a short circuit when the light is turned on. It is caused by shorted exposed wires located in the socket; there are often situations when the lamp itself becomes the source of the problem. In this case, a small short circuit occurs inside the bulb, but this phenomenon does not lead to serious consequences: only the lamp fails.

Exceeding rated load

This incident does not end with sad consequences, but the owners themselves are often to blame for the network overvoltage, plugging several devices into one outlet group. The reason is the difference between the starting and operating current: the first is slightly higher than the second.

Powerful units - for example, boilers, washing machines, refrigerators that provoke a strong current surge in the electrical circuit when starting. To avoid the frequent knocking out of plugs, it is always better to carefully monitor all devices included in a specific outlet group. This applies to both their number and power.

Equipment malfunction

Any traffic jam, automatic - complex devices(especially the last one), which sooner or later may simply fail or begin to work incorrectly, so such options also cannot be excluded. There is only one solution - buying a new device, a modern one. Another situation - a sudden breakdown of powerful household appliances - leads to the same result - the activation of the protection mechanism.

Reasons without obvious reasons

These are wires in old houses built during the existence of Soviet Union. At that time, the total power of a small set of household appliances was quite small, so the electrical circuits were not subjected to heavy loads. Such wires are not at all designed for the abundance of devices that now exist in almost every home. In this case, the only way to protect yourself from constantly knocked out plugs is to search and replace potential weak areas.

Excess moisture is another possible culprit for popping plugs. The air has quite a strong electrical resistance. One that is constantly saturated with water vapor loses this property. Therefore, the arrangement of sockets in rooms with high humidity- in bathhouses, basements, bathrooms - only professional electricians should do this. To install the device there, special structures are required that have a fairly high level of protection from moisture.

Poor contact at the terminals can also cause the automatic protective equipment. To a greater extent, this is caused by soft aluminum conductors. Loose contact inevitably leads to heating of the device. The thermal release (bimetallic plate) reacts to such changes, and the logical result is the activation of the protection. To avoid potential problems, at least an annual inspection of the electrical panel and tightening of the terminals is necessary. If this operation does not help, then you should look for the culprits elsewhere.

What to do?

The most logical solution is an independent attempt to establish the cause and cope with the problem. The knocked-out plugs with the melt are unscrewed and the insert is checked. If it is damaged, then change the fuse by purchasing a product with the same characteristics. Then the plug is screwed into its rightful place.

For a “cork” or modern machine, such manipulations are not required at all: in the first case, they press the button, in the second, they return the lever to the upper position. This is done if the cause of a minor emergency is known for certain. In other cases, it is advised to first find it and then eliminate it.

Search

To make sure you are right (or your suspicions), first take the following actions:

• they are looking for evidence that the traffic jams were knocked out in only one apartment;
• check the voltage in the electrical panel;
• test all sockets/switches in the house: look for darkening of surfaces, burning smell, smoke;
• if there are no anomalies, then the plugs are turned on.

The absence of new electrical problems is proof that the machine is working. If the same thing happens again, then the search continues. They act differently:

• turn off everything that works from the network;
• voltage is applied again.

The normal functioning of the network suggests an excess load, a short circuit, or a faulty device. If an emergency occurs again, then we can assume that the answer to the question of why traffic jams are knocked out has been found. It's a wiring problem.

In this case best option- call to emergency service. Alternative option- independent checking of the entire electrical circuit, however, such manipulations require experience in such work, since all wiring will have to be tested - from distribution box to the sockets. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• inspect every outlet in the house: unscrew the decorative cover, look for charred wires, check for a burning smell;
• testing the performance of each household appliance, examine the housing, cord and plug for damage;
• turn on the devices one by one;
• if all equipment is in working order, the devices are redistributed among groups of outlets.

To eliminate such situations in the future, more powerful devices are provided with a separate wiring line.

What should be done?

To forget about why traffic jams are knocked out, follow simple rules:

• after purchasing new household appliances, their power is determined, which is compared with the network rating;
• carefully monitor the condition of the electrical circuit, check the functionality of the electrical equipment connected to it;
• provide children's rooms with sockets high level protection;
• at the slightest suspicion of a flood, they immediately cut off power to the entire apartment.

What is prohibited?

The main task of the automatic mechanism is to protect the network, and not a means for turning on or off electricity in a house where repairs are being carried out. Frequent operation of the device is a sufficient reason to call an experienced electrician. In order to avoid such situations, it is better to:

• do not turn on several powerful devices at the same time;
• Do not install regular sockets in rooms with high humidity.

Replacing the circuit breaker with a larger one powerful device excluded, since the electrical wiring in the panel where the 16-amp machine is installed will simply burn out when installing a new 25-amp device. If you do not have experience in “close communication” with the electrical panel and sockets, it is better to entrust the work to someone who is familiar with them.

You can find out what experts say about why traffic jams are knocked out and what needs to be done from this video: