Why does the spherical thuja dry out? What to do if you find that the thuja has turned yellow after winter. Why do thujas turn yellow and what to do?

Thuja is a plant of the Gymnosperm genus, the Cypress family, an evergreen shrub, in exceptional cases a tree reaching 7 meters in height, with a trunk girth of 2.5 meters. The leaves of young plants are soft, needle-like, while those of older plants are opposite and scale-like.

The plant is monoecious, does not require cultivation, and tolerates severe frosts and the poor ecology of industrial cities. Thuja is grown in gardens, in the country, on city streets and parks, and at home.

In nature, there are 6 main types of thuja, there are a lot of varieties (more than 120 varieties), each of which is beautiful and unique in its own way.

Possible causes of yellowing needles

Problems such as changes in the color of needles, the appearance of an unsightly yellow or brown color are not uncommon in growing this plant. The question of why thuja turns yellow in summer and what to do worries many gardeners. The appearance of yellow needles signals a problem, and if you do not start eliminating it in time, the tree will begin to dry out, shed its needles and then die completely.

It is important to understand why thuja dries and what to do about it.

Lack or excess of light, moisture

With a sudden change of residence to sunnier areas, if previously the seedling grew in a dense planting or in a shaded place, the appearance of yellowness in the plant in the first couple of days is inevitable.

A dense planting of thuja can cause yellowing of the foliage on a volumetric scale; the contact area of ​​the foliage of neighboring bushes turns yellow, as well as lower branches that lack sunlight.

Thickened planting of thuja can cause yellowing of foliage

Perhaps the thuja turned yellow due to insufficient watering, which, just like excessive watering, negatively affects the needles. High groundwater levels, which negatively affect the root system, cause soaking, rotting of the roots and, as a result, yellowing of the foliage.

Lack of nutrients in the soil

Iron deficiency in the soil can lead to yellowing or even whitening. A lack of nitrogen is manifested by the appearance of various kinds of spots: yellow, brown, brown or whitish. A lack of phosphorus is reflected by the appearance of a red-violet hue on the needles.

If plants are planted too close to each other, a nutrient deficiency occurs, since the powerful root system of each of them “pulls on itself.”

Perhaps there is not enough space for the plant's overgrown root system. Often this situation occurs 5-7 years after planting.

Yellowing before molting

Yellowing before molting

The needles can turn yellow before “molting” - this process is not annual, during which the tree sheds part of the old needles. Needles that have outlived their useful life (3-6 years, depending on the type) are distinguished by yellowing coming from the inside: from the trunk and skeletal branches to the outer parts of the crown, it is hardly noticeable and is not widespread; this usually happens in late autumn.

Pests

Aphid

The appearance of this pest is also characterized by yellowing of the foliage, drying out and falling off. If you do not start fighting aphids in time, the entire tree will die.

Thuja leaf miner

Spider mite

Spider mite

When infected with a mite, individual thuja needles become covered with yellowish spots; over time, they turn red, brown and fall off. The needles become covered with small cobwebs, this is especially noticeable towards the end of summer.

leaf roller

Thuja needles damaged by the larvae of the gray larch moth turn yellow.

Thuja beetle

Yellowed needles may indicate an infection with the thuja pine beetle, or the Crimean thuja pine beetle. Its presence is revealed by the presence of entrance holes in the bark and passages in the wood.

Diseases

Plant diseases usually occur due to improper care. Thuja is often susceptible to fungal diseases. The needles of a sick plant begin to turn yellow and fall off.

The natural process of needle renewal and color change as the seasons change

If in the spring the needles turn yellow or acquire a bronze tint, then perhaps this is just a natural process of renewal of the needles and changing color as the seasons change. If, in addition to the needles, the shoots also look abnormal, then most likely this is some kind of problem.

For example, varieties of thuja western and folded acquire a golden-bronze color in the winter; such yellowing is not a pathology.

There are also varieties with naturally yellow needles: thuja occidentalis Danica Aurea, Sunkist, Clot of Gold.

Disease Prevention

Thuja is often susceptible to fungal diseases (brown shoots, rust, schutte, late blight), the fight against which involves the use of antifungal agents (Fundazol, HOM, Topsin-M). Some diseases, for example, late blight, are useless to treat; the plant is dug up and burned. The following preventive measures help to avoid infection with various diseases or significantly minimize the risks of their occurrence:

• proper watering, which depends on the climate, soil and age of the plants;
• timely fertilizing (mineral and organic fertilizers);
• protection from sunburn;
• regular pruning and removal of diseased shoots in the spring;
• systematic loosening and disinfection of the soil around the tree trunk;
• weed removal;
• winter insulation of young seedlings.

Care instructions

Restoring dried thuja

If the thuja turns yellow, what should I do, how to revive it? You can help the plant if the foliage is completely or partially dried out and the root system is functioning. If the root is dead, then no way to save the thuja will help.

To begin with, each branch of the tree must be carefully checked whether it is alive or not; to do this, it is bent in different places: live ones are elastic, dead ones are dry and brittle. The damaged ones are removed, the sections are smeared with varnish.

The dried plant must be sprayed daily with water with the addition of Epin, an excellent drug for improving the immune system. The solution is sprayed directly onto the crown. Depending on the size of the affected area, spraying is carried out every day or once a week.

The outdoor plant is covered with lutrasil to protect it from sunlight and excessive evaporation of moisture directly in the summer. If this is a houseplant, then the pot with it is placed in a mini-greenhouse.

On a note. It would be a good idea to fertilize with special fertilizers for conifers.

If a young tree has dried out, replanting will help

If a young tree has dried up, replanting will help - perhaps the reason for the plant's decline is in the wrong place or soil. During transplantation, the root system is inspected for possible damaged, rotten roots. If necessary, treat with Kornevin.

Reanimation of a dried thuja takes a long time; the plant can take several years to recover.

Leaves dry out: causes and solutions

If the thuja turns yellow and dries out, you need to decide what to do and how you can help as soon as possible, otherwise the plant may simply die. The first step in solving a problem is to identify the root cause.

There are many reasons why thuja dries:

1. pests;
2. illness;
3. burn;
4. excess of applied fertilizers;
5. insufficient or excessive watering;
6. poor care.

The fight against them is as follows.

Special chemicals are used to control pests. If the thuja is infected with false scale (small insects 3-5 mm, located on the back of the needles, cause the plant to dry out and wilt), use Commander, Champion, Decis. For spider mites, use Actofit, Actellik.

Diseases in which thuja can dry out and wither: late blight, brown shoots and fusarium. Late blight has no chance of cure; fungicides are used for prevention. Drying and subsequent death occurs with brown shoots, the affected areas are eliminated, and the tree is systematically sprinkled with limestone; for preventive purposes, from mid-June to the end of September the tree is sprayed with foundationazole. Fusarium can be prevented by watering the roots with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole.

If the cause of the burn, in which the needles turn brown, is not eliminated, then over time most of the plant may dry out. The following protective measures are taken:

1. the tree trunk circle is filled with peat chips and ash to reduce the reflection of sunlight;
2. use of special means to obtain shading.

When overfeeding thuja, there is practically no way to help; you need to wait time and stop fertilizing the plant for now.

Important! Fresh manure is absolutely not suitable for fertilizing; it will ruin the entire plant.

When the thuja dries up, how and what to do about it is a question that needs to be raised at the very initial stages of damage to the plant. Large pockets of yellowed or dried needles cause enormous damage to the entire plant, and, perhaps, no rescue manipulations will help. The main thing is to provide the thuja with proper, complete care, then such a problem as yellowing of the needles will never appear.

Coniferous trees are unpretentious and durable. But even these mighty giants are subject to various kinds of diseases.

The article will tell you about thuja diseases, why thujas turn yellow and how to treat them.

Natural causes

The reason for the yellowing of thuja can be hidden in many factors.

Below are the main natural reasons why the thuja has turned yellow and dried out, and its needles are falling off.

1. Darkening of the needles is observed in thuja trees at the end of the growing season, usually in late autumn.

The tree seems to be dying. But that's not true. In this way, the thuja is protected from the cold and acclimatized to winter.

1. One of the reasons for the change in color of thuja needles was improper care of a newly planted tree.

It is prohibited to water, move or expose an unestablished tree to bright sunlight. It is not recommended to allow animals such as dogs near the tree. They can damage the delicate roots, thereby ruining the plant.

Note: yellowing or browning of individual thuja branches at the bottom of the crown is a natural process. Withered shoots should be carefully removed by hand.

The thuja needles are tender and straight, the sun's rays leave burns on them. It is recommended to cover the tree, protecting it from the direct rays of the spring sun. To do this, use craft paper and burlap.

Diseases

Let's look at the most common diseases of the thuja bush:

1. The most common cause of yellowing of the thuja is improper planting of the seedling.

The root collar is located incorrectly, too deep or, conversely, too close to the surface. The next most popular reason is when the root system rots.

Most often, the cause of rotting lies in the pathogenic activity of fungi and microorganisms, such as aphids, bark beetles or mites.

1. Root burns.

Excess fertilizer or lack of oxygen can cause burns to the thuja root system. Because of which the tree turns yellow, turns brown and withers.

The needles are falling off. Small strings appear on the branches, which eventually turn into cones. They, in turn, have a detrimental effect on the tree’s ability to reproduce.

1. Damping off of thuja is also a common cause of needles falling off.

This happens as a result of planting trees too close to each other. Imitation. With this method of planting, there is insufficient air circulation around the plants.

How to treat

You can check whether a tree has died in this way: bend a branch, a dead branch will break off, since it has already dried, but a living one will bend.

I would like to note that all diseases of coniferous trees are easily treated if they are detected in time. The fungus is treated with a foundation solution.

Dilute 10 g of the drug per 10 liters. water and treat the tree 2 times, with a break of 10 days. Affected shoots must be removed immediately.

To exterminate insects, solutions of karbofos, actellik or fungicides are used.

Please note that when insect pests appear on a tree, it is important to prevent the formation of larvae. Otherwise, treatment is useless and it will be impossible to remove insects.

Prevention

First of all, you need to follow the rules and care for it.

Remember that the soil is not fertilized before winter. All work on soil enrichment begins in the spring, during the active growing season.

Make sure you are properly prepared for winter.

1. To do this, the roots of the tree are covered with leaves.
2. The crown should be covered with burlap for the winter. It is also recommended to twist tall trees into ropes. This will protect fragile branches from breaking off under the weight of snow.
3. Also, don’t forget to periodically shake off the snow from the trees in winter.

Thuja is a durable and unpretentious plant, which with its austere beauty is ideal for any garden and will delight more than one generation of people. But even in caring for unpretentious green pets, some difficulties may arise. Let's look at one of these problems - why the thuja turns yellow.

It may happen that the scaly needles on your beautiful thuja suddenly begin to turn yellow. What to do? First of all, it is necessary to find out the cause of yellowing, and in our case the reasons may be different.

Although thuja is a long-liver, its scale needles have a shorter lifespan, namely from three to six years. Having lived their allotted time, the needles grow old, lose chlorophyll grains, turn yellow and fall off, and young ones grow in their place. This is a normal, natural process that should not cause any concern.

Also a natural process is the seasonal change in the color of the needles of some types of thuja. This is due to the plant’s adaptation to frosty winters and lack of light. In the spring, when daylight hours increase and the process of sap flow begins, the color of the needles is restored.

For example, the basic (wild) varieties of thuja (Thuja plicata) and western thuja (Thuja occidentalis) turn golden-bronze in winter. The decorative varieties Holstrup, Columna and Brabant acquire a light brown tint. But the Smaragd variety remains deep green even in severe frosts.

Thuja foldata
Thuja occidentalis "Columna"
Thuja occidentalis "Smaragd"

Incorrect landing

Thuja often turns yellow if the soil and planting site are not selected correctly. Let's look at the main points that can cause yellowing.

When planting thuja, it is very important to choose the right soil mixture. On clayey, heavy soils, the roots will not receive oxygen and will not be able to develop normally. Sandy soil allows moisture to pass through very quickly, and the plant does not receive enough water. The most suitable soil for this plant should be nutritious and light (a mixture of turf soil, sand and peat). Drainage is very important, as stagnation of water is destructive. For the same reason, thujas should not be planted in places where groundwater is located close to the surface.

An important point is the planting level of the thuja. If the root collar is deeply buried, the trunk will begin to rot, and if it is not deep enough, the roots will dry out.

It happens that a young thuja immediately begins to turn yellow; here the reason may be a bad seedling. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the moisture content of the soil; the branches should be elastic and flexible.

When planting these plants in groups (for example, a hedge or a high border), you must strictly maintain the distance between them. The minimum gap between thujas is 1 meter. With heavily compacted plantings, thujas begin to hurt.

If you see the reason for the yellowing of your thuja to be due to improper planting, then it must be urgently replanted in compliance with all the necessary conditions, and then the tree will not disappear.

Improper care

Another reason why thuja turns yellow is errors in caring for it.

Diseases

Some fungal diseases may be to blame for your thuja turning yellow. Thujas are most often affected by them. During the disease process, they form brown-black growths or round spots on damaged tissues, in which spores develop. These diseases affect the trunk, branches and needles.

Schutte brown

For example, Schutte brown in early spring, it envelops thuja branches with cobwebby, dense mycelium of brown or gray color. The needles also become brown; they do not fall off immediately, as they are glued together by this coating. If urgent measures are not taken, the entire plant will become infected and die.

Another type of fungal disease destroys bark tissue. It leads to necrosis. Absolutely all parts of it are affected, and the bark often begins to fall off. The needles also change color. The change occurs first in separate spots, which then merge. Most often, necrosis affects trees weakened by unfavorable weather conditions (severe frosts, drought). Sick trees attract stem pests.

Some types of fungal diseases affect old, low-lying branches, while others attack exclusively young growth. The fight against them consists of carefully removing damaged branches and treating them with fungicides. Moreover, it is necessary to spray repeatedly at intervals of two weeks.

Root rot

A very dangerous thuja disease is root rot. In this case, the fungus Phytophtora cinnamomi destroys the surface tissue of young roots. The plant turns pale yellow and then dries out completely. The main symptom of this disease is changes in the trunk in the area of ​​the root collar. The bark in this place becomes softer, a coating with light dots appears, and the trunk under the bark turns from cream to brown. Young thuja dies from this disease in one season. In a hedge, after one plant becomes infected, mass infection is possible. Therefore, at the first signs of disease, the entire plant must be dug up and burned. It is better to replace the soil in this place, since the fungal spores remain in the soil. Phytophthora fungi affect thujas weakened by heavy soils, so you should definitely take care of proper planting and care of the plant.

Coniferous plants in the garden are a true decoration, bringing grace and severity to the landscape, possessing a magical…

Pests

Thuja, like other conifers, has insect pests that form two main groups.

1. Sucking

A distinctive sign indicating that thuja is affected by this type of insect is the appearance of a gray coating on the needles and the mass movement of ants across the plant.

- Thuja false scales look like brown buds, and juniper scales form growing yellowish cankers. They are attached at the base of the shoot. BI-58, as well as drugs such as Aktara and Lufox, can be cured well.

- moth. Activates in May. Its larvae gnaw passages in the thuja scales, which leads to a change in color and death of the shoots (the top is most often affected). To combat moths, drugs containing pyrethroids are used.

- Thuja aphid. It lives most often at the bottom of the trunk. It sucks the juice out of the needles, which leads to yellowing and falling off of the needles. It is necessary to spray with Karbofos.

moth
Thuja aphid

mayfly bagworm

- mayfly bagworm. Its caterpillars feed on pine needles and twigs. A characteristic sign of infestation by this insect is silky yellow sacs (about 5 cm) hanging from the branches. This insect causes massive needle drop and greatly weakens the plant, making it more accessible to other pests.

- Larch leaf roller. The larvae of this insect damage the thuja needles, weaving them into small cocoons. The needles then turn yellow and fall off.

- Spider mite. The presence of a thin cobweb and small light dots on the thuja needles will indicate the presence of this pest. If the damage is very strong, the plant turns white and becomes covered with cobwebs. You can fight the tick by repeated spraying with insectoacaricidal and acaricidal preparations (for example, Actellik, Envidor, Akarin, Fitoverm and others).

Weevils (mowing beetles)

- Weevils (mowing beetles). In spring, these insects eat the needles and bark of young plants. And the larvae living in the soil feed on the roots. This causes the needles to turn brown or yellow. To combat larvae, you should water the soil with an insecticide (for example, “Aktara”, “Antikhrushch”). Pollination of the soil around the plant with Confidor is also effective against beetles and larvae.

2. Stem

Thuja beetle

If the bark on your thuja peels off, and you find intricate holes and passages underneath it, then the plant is being attacked by stem pests (bark beetles). In our case it is thuja beetle(Phloeosinus). It damages the bark so badly that the plant dies. Small holes gnawed by the pine beetle are visible in the damaged areas.

The fight against bark beetles is very difficult. One of the means of control is pheromone traps. They attach to the tree and are used to attract these insects. When they fly to the trap, the tree with them is uprooted and burned. Antipheromones are also used; on the contrary, they repel beetles. These substances are safe for people and animals.

To combat stem pests, you can use drugs such as BI-58, Actellik, Clipper, Fufanon and others.

Many gardeners wonder why the thuja turns yellow. The reasons for the change in the color of the needles may be a violation of the rules of care or diseases. Depending on the type of provoking factor, ways to solve the problem are selected.

Natural causes of yellowing of thuja

The thuja turned yellow after winter, what to do - try to find the cause of this phenomenon. Natural factors include:

1. Loss of chlorophyll. In autumn, the tree experiences a deficiency of the substance that feeds the needles. The needles turn yellow and begin to fall off. New green ones appear in place of the old yellow needles. This is a stage in the tree's natural life cycle. At the end of autumn, the needles sharply change color; in the spring, the plant’s condition returns to normal.
2. Reaction to cold weather. Yellowing is observed in winter and autumn; this sign should not be observed in spring and summer.
3. Moisture deficiency in the root system. In warm sunny weather, you need to water the trees by spraying and sprinkling. A properly mulched tree trunk circle should also be abundantly irrigated with water. This will allow moisture to remain in the soil and be absorbed by the plant.
4. Excess moisture. This happens due to lack of drainage. The roots begin to rot, causing the needles to change color. In this case, it is recommended to replant the thuja. Organizing a drainage system will also help. When there is excess moisture, the plant is affected by a fungus, which causes it to become sick.
5. Sunburn. They arise due to low air humidity and increased solar activity in spring. Ultraviolet rays burn the needles and bark of a young tree. At the end of winter, thuja needs to be protected from light by covering it with a white sheet, lutrasil or camouflage net. The canvas is thrown over the plant and not removed until the end of April. The burned tree must be sprayed with a growth stimulator based on zircon or epin.
6. Lack of space. If the roots of the plant cannot grow in breadth, the needles begin to turn yellow. This happens a few years after planting in open ground, when the thuja outgrows the planting hole. A tree can be saved by timely replanting to a new location.
7. Landing at a short distance. If trees are too close together, they may be deprived of food. Impaired air circulation leads to rotting of the roots.
8. Lack of nutrients in the soil. When growing thuja, special fertilizers must be added to the soil to ensure normal growth and development of the plant. If there is a deficiency of iron in the soil, the needles turn yellow or fade. Lack of phosphorus leads to needle drop.
9. Incorrect care. Thuja branches must be regularly shaped after planting. Yellowing of the needles is caused by removing large amounts of green plant matter or using a blunt instrument.

Thuja diseases

Yellowing of thuja needles is observed with the following diseases:

How to treat diseases?

Changes in the color of thuja needles occur for many reasons, sometimes they are difficult to establish. Most often, the needles first turn yellow, dry out, die and fall off. Take a close look at the arborvitae to find out what happened to your favorite conifers.

Natural causes of changes in needle color in autumn

Sometimes thuja needles turn yellow in the fall, because, like all conifers, its lifespan is coming to an end. Usually, 3-6 years after the appearance of the needles, they begin to lose chlorophyll grains, lighten, turn yellow and die. She is replaced by another. In this case, individual branches turn yellow in the inner parts of the crown around the trunk and gradually fall off. This is a normal process.

Seasonal color change of thuja needles in winter

Species plants acquire a golden-bronze color of needles in the winter months ( Thuja occidentalis) and thuja foldata ( T. plicata). Needles varieties Brabant, Columna And Holstrup only slightly colored brown, and the beautiful, lush needles of the variety Smaragd even in severe frosts it retains its rich green hue. The darkening or browning of thuja needles is a kind of protective reaction to cold weather and adaptation to the cold winters that prevail in its homeland - in the western and eastern parts of North America.

In the photo: Natural winter yellowing of needles

With the arrival of spring and the beginning of sap flow, such needles again gain a rich green color. If this does not happen in the spring, you are faced with a more serious problem than the natural physiological characteristics of the thuja. But you need to remember that in the spring it can occur on thuja.

Mistakes when planting thuja

Unfavorable conditions that cause yellowing and shedding of needles, drying of the branches of the lower tier and death of the thuja:

• Planting thuja on, where water and nutrients quickly go to the lower layers;
• Planting thuja where there are insufficient nutrients, the structure is dense, there is not enough oxygen and the thuja root system cannot fully develop;
• Planting thuja in low areas with stagnant water, where the root system of plants becomes soaked and rots.

In the photo: Thickened planting of thuja in a hedge

5. Sharp exposure of thuja to light leads to lightening of the needles to a straw color. Seedlings taken from a dense planting or from the shade burn in the sun, often within the first day after planting.

6. Technical salt for cleaning roads and turns the tips of shoots in the lower part of plants brown. Excessive fertilization causes similar damage.

In the photo: Damage to needles caused by reagents

Damage to thuja needles caused by animal urine

The needles and bark of branches on a thuja may turn black (less often turn red) and dry out. When trees are constantly marked, a black coating appears on the thuja.

In the photo: Damage to needles caused by dog ​​urine

The urine of other mammals can also cause serious damage to the root systems of even very large woody plants. So, sometimes thuja suffers from cat urine.

Thuja diseases causing changes in needle color

Necrotic wilt of thuja

For the treatment of necrotic diseases and vascular wilting in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes ( Abiga-pik, HOM).

In case of severe damage in summer, spraying is repeated with one of the same preparations. To combat stem rot, the affected areas are cleaned, wounds, saw cuts, frost holes and mechanical damage are disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and covered with natural drying oil, garden varnish or pastes. Dried trunks and individual trees are cut out with obligatory.

Thuja sucking pests

Tarnished, brown thuja needles, covered with a gray-black coating, or masses of people crawling on the needles may indicate that the plant has been colonized. For example, thuja aphids, bugs, thuja false scale or juniper. Thuja false scales look like large brown buds or brown balls (up to 3 mm in diameter), and juniper scales look like small scars or scabs. On a branch they can be found most often at the base of the current year's shoot on the lower side. Sometimes cotton-white formations are found at the base of the branches - these are mealybugs. These insects not only suck the juice from the needles, but also contaminate the surface with honeydew and contribute to the transmission of viral diseases.

In the photo: Pest of thuja and cypress trees - cypress thicket, or owl cocoon moth

The needles that have turned yellow and have not restored their normal color in the spring, and the dying off of the tips of the thuja shoots indicate thuja. Its larvae eat short passages in the needles and shoots of thuja. This butterfly can be identified by the presence of exit holes or cavities in the needles. To do this, cut the damaged needles or inspect them against the light. In May, in the crowns of moth-damaged thujas, you can observe a massive flight of butterflies.

The massive fall of needles and “bags” of hard silk 5 cm long, hanging like decorations from the shoots of the thuja, are evidence of its colonization by caterpillars of the mayfly-like bagworm butterfly.

If individual thuja needles become covered with yellowish spots, later turn brown, crumble and are at the same time entangled in a thin, sparse web, and the degree of damage increases sharply by the end of summer, the thuja is colonized.

Gray larch larvae can weave thuja needles into small, sloppy cocoons; damaged needles turn yellow. Weevils (mowing beetles) gnaw the bark of young thuja shoots, as a result of which the tips of the shoots become brown.

Thuja stem pests

Any change in the color of the needles may indicate that the plant is infested with stem pests.

The thuja pine beetle and the Crimean pine beetle develop on the thuja. Their presence can be understood by the entrance holes in the bark and oddly shaped passages on the wood, under pieces of bark or on their inside.

Sprayed Karbofos before buds open, at the end of June, treat twice Actellicom or Rogor with an interval of 10-14 days.

In the photo: Scale on thuja

For aphids, gray larch budworm and stem pests in the spring in May - early June with one of the following drugs: Fufanon, Aktellik, Decis Profi. If there is a large number of pests, eradication spraying with the same preparations is carried out in the summer. In case of severe damage by stem pests, dried branches are cut off, cuts and cuts are covered with oil paint on natural drying oil. If holes are found in the bark of trees, injections of the drug are carried out Aktellik(without dilution): 1 ampoule/1 sq. m of trunk bark - a drop into each hole.

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