Why do cracks appear on thuja trunks? Thuja diseases: description, treatment. Proper care of thuja is the key to tree health

Thuja diseases

This article covers all the diseases of thuja that can be encountered when growing it, describes them and highlights the principles of treatment. Thuja diseases can be caused by various pathogens, but their main symptom is always yellowing or browning of the needles.

Phytophthora in thuja. The late blight fungus causes root rot and softening of the bark at the base of the trunk. The softness of the bark can be felt by touch. Externally, a coating in the form of pink or white spots is visible on it, and the color of the fabric underneath is not green, but brown. The needles become dull and dry out. The roots have a putrid odor. Fungicides are used to treat and prevent the disease. A diseased and dead plant remains a source of infection. Late blight is considered one of the most dangerous diseases of thuja, in which the plant is often immediately destroyed, since it is difficult to treat.

Fusarium thuja or tracheomycosis. Fusarium is a disease of thuja caused by mold fungi genus Fusarium, hence the main name of the disease - fusarium, consonant with Latin name kind of mushroom. Tracheomycoses are fungal diseases that are combined into one group due to the same symptoms of the disease and the principles of their treatment, despite the fact that they are caused by several various types mushrooms belonging to the specified genus. In many sources, fusarium and tracheomycosis are synonymous words. Tracheomycosis and fusarium are also called "vascular wilt", "tracheomycosis wilt" and "fusarium rot".

In general, fusarium also occurs in other plants, but in this article we will consider only thuja diseases. Due to the peculiarity of localization, fusarium causes root disease of thuja. What is his cunning? visible to the eye, in the above-ground parts of the plant we do not see signs of fungal infections, but only browning and drying of the top of the thuja or its upper (young) shoots. The roots turn brown and rot: they are primarily affected by the so-called fusarium rot. Root rot leads to the penetration of the mycelium into the vascular system of the plant, where the mycelium continues to grow and fills the vessels, blocking the access of nutrients to the young parts of the plant. The so-called vascular (tracheomycotic) wilting occurs when we see that the thuja turns yellow and dries out. Sometimes root rotting is not associated with tracheomycosis, as the primary cause, but is associated, first of all, with waterlogging of the soil or stagnation of water in it. In such conditions, the roots rot naturally, but this process can easily be joined by a fungal infection, which will be a secondary cause of thuja disease.

Principles of treatment. First of all, the soil should not be allowed to become waterlogged. In places prone to water stagnation, it is necessary to good drainage. Dead plants should be removed from the site and destroyed, since the infection persists in their remains and they are a source of infection. In professional nurseries, they practice pouring under the root and spraying with 0.2% solution of foundationazole rum, however, this does not give 100% results. As a preventive measure, the roots of the plant can be soaked in solutions of fungicidal preparations before planting. After eliminating the fungus, you can revive the plant by spraying it with zircon once a week, maybe three times at a concentration of 4 drops per 1 liter.

Drying of thuja branches. This is a disease of thuja caused by several types of fungi. The infection penetrates the bark and phloem through various damage and cracks, continues its life activity, its biomass grows and it spreads through the trunk to other parts of the plant. A characteristic feature This disease of thuja is the presence on the bark of spores in the form of olive-black cushions or fruiting bodies of the fungus in the form of small numerous tubercles of black, gray or brown color (pestalocytic wilt). The needles on the affected branch turn yellow, starting from the tips, gradually the process covers the entire branch and it dries out completely.

Dried shoots should be cut off, and the dead plant should be removed from the site and burned. Affected plants are sprayed with special fungicidal preparations. For preventive purposes, this is done in the fall and spring. Good results are obtained by using foundationazole and copper oxychloride.

Brown thuja schute. This thuja disease manifests itself in the spring, when we see individual needles on the plant, first yellowed, then red-brown and even black-brown. So, as the pathogen multiplies, the affected areas of the needles darken, becoming covered with overgrown cobwebby mycelium from grayish-black to black-brown. Numerous dark fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the affected areas; they are oblong in shape. With this disease, the needles quickly dry out and begin to crumble. The treatment is the same as for drying branches.

Gardeners often encounter the problem of cracking bark on tree trunks and branches. This phenomenon can negatively affect the health of garden trees, and can also cause them to wilt prematurely, sometimes even leading to their death.

And gardeners have logical question, why the bark on fruit trees cracks, what this phenomenon entails and how you can avoid it.

The bark can crack for several reasons: due to severe frost, in the summer due to heat, the bark can be damaged during pruning of trees, there may be other reasons for this phenomenon.

1. The main reason for bark cracking is frost. The mechanism of cracking is based on the elementary physical laws of expansion of water (the juice in the tree) when freezing, which is why the bark, unable to withstand the pressure of ice, sometimes cracks.
2. The second most important reason is thermal sunburn. The presence of reddish-brown spots on the trunk and branches of a tree indicates the presence of such burns. This is due to the process of photosynthesis. Trees often get burned the first time spring days. Due to strong heating by the sun's rays, the tissue structure of the trunk, which is not yet adapted to heat after winter frosts, is damaged, causing severe cracking and sometimes even the death of entire sections of the bark
3. The bark can become damaged and break off due to physical pressure - for example, from an excess harvest, or heavy wet snow in winter or early spring.
4. They suffer from hares. Sometimes these damages are so dangerous that they can even cause the death of the tree.
5. Cracks in the bark may appear due to insect pests. For example, bark beetles damage the bark and bast along which they are delivered to the tree. nutrients. Small holes appear on the bark - passages.
6. Plant diseases can also cause cracks to appear. in garden trees it is diagnosed by the appearance of cracks in the bark. This disease appears mainly due to the fact that the roots fruit trees deepen to the groundwater level.
7. The causes of cracking may be excessive fertilizing. The tree is actively growing, but the bark cannot stand it and cracks.
8. The following groups of trees are most susceptible to the formation of cracks: those subjected to unprofessional pruning, those grown in waterlogged soil, not winter-hardy varieties, trees, plants that are incorrectly fertilized (too large doses of nitrogen in August, September or November), as well as cracking is possible when fruit trees are planted deep.

Why are cracks in trees dangerous?

Cracks pose a much greater danger to wood than might be imagined at first glance. After all, they accumulate microbes, bacteria, viruses that cause various infections.

If the crack is not treated in time, it, like an untreated wound on the human body, begins to become infected, hurt, and increase in size.

In fruit trees, the wound rots over time and forms large damage.

What to do if tree trunks crack

Prevention of cracks

Whitewashing trees

To prevent the formation of cracks on garden trees use whitewash. When whitewashing, you need to maintain the concentration of lime.

To treat young trees, a solution of lower concentration is used than for whitewashing older trees.

Whitewashing tree trunks should be done twice a year - in spring and autumn. much more important for fruit trees.

Protection from frost and sunburn

In order to prevent the appearance of cracks from frost and sunburn, tree tying is effectively used to insulate them.

Most gardeners use newsprint for this; it protects from the wind and reflects Sun rays.

Some summer residents and gardeners use non-woven material for these purposes - spunbond or lutrasil.

Furrowing trees

To prevent the appearance of cracks, a furrowing procedure is carried out at the beginning of summer.

To do this, longitudinal, intermittent cuts are made with a well-disinfected knife to a depth of 1 or 2 millimeters with north side trunk from the crown of the tree to the roots.

For the first time after landing, this procedure is performed when reaching four summer age tree, after which it is repeated once every five years.

Prevention from rodents

To prevent damage to fruit trees by rodents, tying the trees with roofing material is used.

Sometimes they use a rodent repellent coating for these purposes - a mixture of equal amounts cow dung and clay with the addition of carbolic acid - one tablespoon per bucket.

Subject to preventive measures the likelihood of bark cracking on fruit trees is significantly reduced.

The reasons for the appearance of cracks in the bark of fruit tree trunks can be different. And since the climate in the North-West is quite harsh for gardening, the most common and especially dangerous cause their appearance is due to sudden winter temperature fluctuations.

Causes of crack formation

When, after a relatively warm day, a sharp cooling occurs at night, leading, according to the laws of physics, to a strong compression of the bark, as a result we get numerous ruptures, causing longitudinal death. The same thing happens with the cambium and the wood underneath. And this is how they appear on the trunks frost cracks. They occur especially often at the end of winter - beginning of spring, primarily in non-zoned and weakly winter-hardy varieties. fruit crops. And also in trees growing on waterlogged soil or noticeably weakened in the past growing season by excessive pruning.

Planting fruit trees too deep also has a negative effect. In addition, trees that are pampered by excessive and untimely application of nitrogen and organic fertilizers. As is known, they contribute to the activation of shoot growth in late summer and autumn. Therefore, such fertilizers should not be used in the second half of summer. Conversely, the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers at this time stimulates an earlier end of shoot growth and increased winter hardiness, therefore, this is useful.

Consequences of cracking

Trees damaged by frost cracks may experience slow growth, fruits and leaves may become smaller and fall off prematurely. But still The cracks themselves are not as scary as the complications that arise from them– infection of resulting wounds with bacteria, viruses, spores of pathogenic fungi. In stone fruits this is aggravated by gommosis (gum bleeding), which is non-communicable disease– the shells and starch of the cortex cells turn into gum. In wet weather, the gum comes out through cracks, providing an extremely favorable environment for the life and development of bacteria and other pathogenic organisms.

Therefore, if such wounds are not treated, rot and other secondary damage to trees very often appear on them in the future. To prevent this from happening, frost cracks that have arisen should be cleaned as soon as possible from dead bark to healthy areas of tissue, and then the wound should be disinfected with copper (100 g per 10 l of water) or iron sulfate (500 g per 10 l of water), allow it to dry and cover with garden varnish or plasticine.

Stone fruits have very good results with strong gum formation of frost cracks it gives 2-3 times treatment of trunks by applying a layer of 1-1.5 cm of crushed sorrel leaves to the wound. After this, the trunks are tied with plastic film, lutrasil or simply burlap. After a month, the bandage is removed, the wound is cleaned, and the sorrel leaves are replaced with fresh ones. If necessary, after another month the operation is repeated a third time.

As already mentioned, in order to reduce the impact of severe frosts to a minimum, only zoned varieties should be grown, and only winter-hardy and highly winter-hardy. It is better to avoid breeding non-zoned, as well as medium- and low-winter-hardy varieties. In addition, frost cracks more often occur in trees that are poorly prepared for winter, planted in damp and cold places, as well as with improper care and poor agricultural practices. Trees that have completed their growth in a timely manner, and whose wood and buds have matured well and are fully formed, can withstand even very severe frosts much easier.

How to prevent cracks by tying trunks

However, even winter-hardy zoned varieties suffer greatly from winter temperatures below -35? C, which sometimes occurs in our climate, and a temperature of -45? C is critical for them too. Autumn whitewashing of trunks and branches It protects tree trunks well in winter from sunburn, but does not protect against frost cracks. From them, as well as others winter damage only helps tying the trunk and bases of first-order branches with some protective material.

The best and most modern of them, which is also very cheap, accessible and quickly applied to the barrel, is ordinary newsprint(old newspapers). It is almost white, whiter than most other tying materials, therefore, it reflects the dangerous rays of the sun well and saves the bark of the trunks from harmful overheating at the end of winter. The bark underneath does not rot or freeze, because newsprint quickly gets wet from rain and melting snow, but then dries out just as quickly.

It also protects quite well from drying winds. Lay it in 3-4 layers, i.e. several sheets of newspaper are placed one on top of the other, or, by folding a large sheet of newspaper twice lengthwise and turning it into a kind of paper “bandage”, they bandage the trunk with it. When, during wrapping, one layer of such a wrapper ends, it is built up with another, it can be overlapped, but it is better by tucking newspaper into newspaper. Even with minimal experience, this work is done easily and quickly. As a result, there is no need for preliminary preparation and transportation of binding material (spruce foot, reeds, etc.), and old newspapers are usually available in every home. There is also no danger that you will be late in removing the strapping in the spring. Even if you are late in removing the newspapers, it will not harm the trees. In addition, newspapers well protect the trunk and branches not only from frost cracks, but also from sunburn, as well as other damage, since a more even temperature regime is maintained under them.

At night, under such a harness it is several degrees warmer, and during the day it protects against unwanted heating of the trunk by the sun. This coating also protects the bark from excessive drying. As already mentioned, quickly getting wet in the rain and during thaws, newspapers dry out just as quickly, so the trunk under them does not become covered with a crust of ice, does not rot, and is not affected by pathogenic fungi. And one more thing - newspapers protect trunks from damage by animals. Of course, it costs nothing for rodents to gnaw through such a thin and soft covering to get to the tasty bark.

However, they simply don’t think of doing this, because the newspaper itself is tasteless and smells unappetizing. And to scare away hares on one or two trees on the site, in a visible place, approximately at a height of 1-1.7 m (but not lower, otherwise they will be covered with snow), it is useful to additionally hang swinging black triangles made of roofing felt or other material on strings suitable material. From afar, in the background white snow, they will look like wolf or dog heads. The hare, a very cautious animal, is afraid to come close to areas with objects that are suspicious from his point of view.

Gardeners may have only one concern: will the wind blow away the thin newsprint in the winter? How to securely secure it from this? My many years of experience show that newspaper withstands winter well, and nothing more is needed. You can, of course, secure newspapers to the trunk with twine, but this is more difficult and takes longer. The easiest and fastest way to fix them is with single-sided tape. It lays down quickly, evenly, holds the newspapers perfectly, they do not move under it, do not tear, and successfully withstand the winter, protecting the trunks well and cheaply. The bark under the newspapers is always completely intact. And in the spring, you just need to slightly cut the tape, and the entire binding falls off, all that remains is to collect it and burn it.

Instead of newspapers, you can use lutrasil and spunbond tapes for tying, also securing them with single-sided tape. But the use of these materials will cost much more. And since newspapers protect trunks no worse nonwovens, why spend money? Perhaps, you can only use worthless scraps or frayed sheets of covering materials that are not suitable for other purposes for these purposes. Also, in order to minimize damage to the trunk bark, trees should be formed with low trunks. For pome crops (apple trees, pears), the trunk in the North-West should be only 50-70 cm high. If the trunk is small, then there is simply no room for large and numerous cracks to appear on it, and it is easier to wrap it for the winter. And stone fruit crops (cherries, plums) are best formed without a trunk at all, in their own bush-like root form. Such plants are much less damaged by frost. And if their individual branches are damaged or even die, the bush will quickly recover from the root shoots.

Other types of cracks

Therefore, it must be cleaned off, especially on apple trees and other pome-bearing plants. To do this, early in the spring, always in wet weather, a tarpaulin or plastic film. The old dead bark is then scraped off onto this bedding using a metal scraper or steel broom. Having finished the work, this bark, along with the peeled eggs and pupae of insect pests, thalli of lichens and hyphae of fungi, is collected and then burned.

Grooving trunks is a way to prevent cracks from appearing

After this, in May - June, to prevent the formation of cracks, as well as to increase the diameters of trunks and branches of the first order, it is advisable to additionally carry out furrowing. On the trunk it is done from the crown to the root collar, and on first-order branches - on their bare areas to the first forks. To do this, use a clean, disinfected knife to make 3-4 longitudinal slits on the bark of thick trunks from the crown to the base of the trunk on the north side to a depth of 1.5-2 mm. On thin trunks and bare areas of large skeletal branches, it is enough to make one furrow.

On branches they are carried out along the inside or side. The cuts are not made continuous, which is dangerous and can lead to exposure of the wood and death of the cambium, but in lowercase ones. Each cut in the line is made up to 10 cm long, leaving between them uncut sections 1-2 cm long. The bark is cut only to the wood, without damaging it and trying not to damage the cambium.

The first furrowing is carried out 3-4 years after planting the tree. And then repeat it every 4-5 years. For successful and quick work there is special tool- furrower, but if you do it carefully, you can use an ordinary knife. Knives with a fixed retractable blade are especially convenient for this. Furrowing is carried out especially carefully on stone fruits; with deep cuts, they can develop gummosis (gum bleeding), which contributes to the occurrence of infectious diseases.

This is especially dangerous in cold, wet years, primarily for trees weakened by diseases, pests and heavy pruning. Indeed, in the future, careless furrowing can become a path for bacteria that cause trunk cancer, spores of pathogenic fungi and other microorganisms to penetrate into the tree. Therefore, applied cuts are immediately disinfected with a 1% solution. copper sulfate(100 g per 10 liters of water), then 2-3 times at intervals of 10 minutes (to dry) rub the cut areas with fresh sorrel leaves and cover them with garden varnish or nigrol putty (70% nigrol and 30% stove ash).

In addition to those listed, there may be other, less common reasons that lead to cracks: attack by insect pests, wounds to the bark by people and animals, or wind. However, regardless of the method of their occurrence, the measures to combat them remain essentially the same. First of all, the cracks must be disinfected as quickly as possible, and then covered with garden pitch, nigrolic putty or simply children's plasticine. And in stone fruit crops, it is also necessary to additionally prevent the occurrence of homosis. The most effective way to do this is with sorrel.

Vladimir Starostin,
dendrologist, candidate of agricultural sciences

Not only pests are dangerous for thujas. If not properly cared for and watered, they can be susceptible to disease. It is worth considering the main ones: how they are characteristic, and how to cure your favorite trees from them.

Phytophthora

Late blight is considered the most famous and dangerous fungal disease of thuja. It's a disease of the root that destroys it upper layer. On appearance thuja reflects this way: it withers, turns into grey colour, Bottom part the trunk becomes soft to the touch. The tissue under the bark will change color to brown, and a coating will appear underneath. The root becomes brittle and smells rotten.

Basically, late blight affects thujas growing on soil that is poorly drained; the water here often stagnates.

Treatment

To prevent late blight, it is necessary to frequently water the thuja with fungicides. If the disease nevertheless reaches it and the roots fester, it is best to destroy the tree and replace the soil, since this fungus is still for a long time can live.

This is a fungal disease that appears in early spring. You can notice it by its yellowed scales. At a late stage of development, the disease affects the entire shoot and it dies.

How to overcome it?

To protect the thuja from this disease, it is constantly fed, and the roots are also sprinkled with limestone. During the period July-October until October itself, it is advisable to spray the thuja with Fundazol (2% solution) every 2 weeks. If you see at least one affected shoot, it should be cut out immediately, and then the disease will not spread further.

If the bark is covered with yellow ulcers that gradually grow and increase in size, your tree has contracted the false scale insect. Treatment should be started immediately, otherwise this disease will cause spots to cover the entire trunk and it will die.

How to treat?

In order to destroy the false scale insect, the following means are used: Rogor, Karbofos, Actellik, Antio.

There are also traditional methods. To prevent this disease, you can wrap the trunk with straw or burlap. Treat the branches with a soap solution containing denatured alcohol (15 grams of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 liter warm water). Another way is to apply special glue from caterpillars to the surface (this will prevent pests from reaching it).

Once you notice just a few larvae, try simply brushing them off with a brush or knife without damaging the bark.

Schutte and rust

Fungal diseases, manifested by darkening and falling of needles. They begin in the spring and spread throughout the year. Mostly young trees are affected.

How to remove rust and shutte? The best drugs for prevention

To stop the development of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and burn them to prevent it from spreading to others. coniferous trees. But this doesn't always help.

It is best to treat affected trees with HOM. The consumption rate of the drug is 40 g/10 l of water. This solution should be sprayed on the affected trees twice a season: in the spring (May) and in the summer when the disease reappears. Since both schutte and rust are common to all conifers, it is worth carrying out preventive treatment of the rest of the conifers (all, without exception). It is carried out with the same HOM in the same dose, but only once in the spring.

If there is no effect, you need to shed tree trunk circles affected trees with Fundazol. The consumption rate of the drug is 20 g/10 l of water - a solution (0.2%) is obtained, which is poured onto the trunk circle of the affected tree once per growing season. There is no need to spray the trees with it, only the soil to destroy the infection in it.

Topsin-M is also used from Schutte: the consumption rate of the drug is 15 g/10 l of water, this solution is consumed for 1 mature plant. Spraying is carried out once in the spring after the threat of night frosts has passed.

Instead of HOM, you can buy Bordeaux mixture. This is an old, but very effective and proven remedy, suitable for many cultures. You don't have to buy it.

Homemade Bordeaux mixture recipe

It's easy to prepare it yourself. The purchased bag contains lime and copper sulfate. This means that to prepare ten liters of a one percent solution you will need 100 g of lime and 100 g of vitriol.

It is prepared like this:

1. In glass or wooden utensils(in no case with iron or plastic!) Vitriol (copper sulfate) is diluted. Add up to five liters of water, do the same with lime in another container;
2. The diluted vitriol is carefully poured into slaked lime;
3. Stirs. You should get a light blue liquid;
4. To understand whether we have poured in a sufficient amount of copper sulfate, we need to take an iron object that is not covered with rust (for example, a knife) and lower it to the bottom of our liquid. The appearance of a red coating means too much;
5. This can be easily fixed by adding lime. It is necessary to check, otherwise you can burn the plants.

With this working solution, preventive spraying can be carried out every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l/100 m².

Bottom line

Proper care and timely help will protect and cure your thuja from many possible diseases and pests. But it is also important to remember that shedding and yellowing of needles does not necessarily signal the appearance of some kind of disease.

Thuja often changes color and sheds its needles at the end of the growing season. Its appearance may indicate that it is dying. But in fact, it is simply preparing for winter, and the change in the color of the needles is just its protective reaction.

You may be interested in the following information:

- thuja pests and methods of combating them;

Thuja is a popular conifer evergreen tree or a shrub belonging to the cypress family. Preparation for winter of such a conifer should begin before the onset of severe frosts.

Features of autumn care for thuja

Basic measures for caring for ornamental plants in autumn period aimed at strengthening the immune system and preparing for winter frosts. In order for the conifer to easily survive the winter, it must be provided with the correct agricultural technology.

Thuja watering regime in autumn

A crop planted in the autumn period requires irrigation measures and sprinkling in volumes equivalent to spring seedlings. Young plant greatly needs sufficient moisture, which has a positive effect on overwintering. If there is a sufficient amount of precipitation in the fall, then watering should be reduced to almost a minimum or stopped completely.

Too much a large number of moisture, which affects the root system of a plant for a couple of weeks, often becomes the main cause of damage to the crop by pathogenic microflora or death.

Scheme and technology for pruning thuja in autumn

Pruning should be done only in dry weather. The above-ground part can be cut to create a pyramidal, columnar or spherical shape, and the Smaragd variety is most often used for spiral and checkerboard shapes. garden figures. A careful inspection of the crown is carried out first, and visual definition the desired shape of the above-ground part of the conifer.

You cannot trim branches immediately after rain, as in this case there is a risk of pests and various diseases appearing on the crown. To give an arched and rectangular shape special blanks or twine are used. All tools used for pruning must be sharp and clean.

Rules for autumn feeding of thuja

Fertilize the plant immediately after planting permanent place There is absolutely no need if all appropriate fertilizing and fertilizers have been applied landing hole. The best option is feeding in spring or summer.

In areas characterized by poor soils, plants need to be fed with complete complex fertilizers. It is not recommended to feed plants in the autumn, since in this case there is an excessive development of shoots and branches that do not have time to fully form before the winter cold. Such conifers often die in severe frosts.

How to clean thuja in the fall (video)

Preparing thuja for winter

When preparing conifers for winter frosts, it is very important to adhere to standard deadlines, which vary depending on soil characteristics and climatic conditions in the growing region decorative conifer.

How and when to cover thuja for the winter

Before deciding whether to use shelter in winter period, you need to decide on the age and time of planting the conifer. If ornamental plant was planted in spring or summer period current year, it belongs to the category of young crops in need of protection.

Mature and strong plants can easily do without shelter, if planted in the shade of large trees or next to a house and a high fence. It is imperative to cover the above-ground part of the bush when temperature conditions below -35°C. To protect the crown, you should use light-colored, air-permeable, so-called “breathable” covering materials or traditional burlap.

Why and how to tie thuja in the fall

When preparing for winter snowfalls, the crown of young and adult thujas must be very carefully tied with nylon rope or twine, which will prevent the fluffy branches from breaking off under the weight snow mass. The crown of the conifer should not be tied too tightly, but a very weak connection is completely ineffective.

Preparing the thuja root system for wintering

Root system Thuja, regardless of age, is characterized by compactness and a fairly superficial location. Precisely because of their botanical features, the roots of the conifer are capable of freezing out in winters that are too frosty and with little snow, as well as overheating in the hot summer.

To prevent freezing and overheating, it is necessary to carry out high-quality mulching of the soil in the autumn and spring. This agrotechnical technique also allows you to retain a sufficient amount of moisture in surface layers soil, maintains the soil well in a loose state, and also prevents too active growth and development of weeds.

Digging and mulching tree trunk circles

Shallow digging and loosening followed by mulching of the soil can greatly facilitate the care of ornamental crops. Such activities must be carried out not only in the early spring period, but also with the onset of autumn.

A soil crust does not form under the mulch, and the soil itself receives effective protection from erosion during irrigation activities. Mulching can be done with garden compost, fallen leaves, lowland peat, wood chips and sawdust, as well as other organic components.

Autumn problems and methods for solving them

Failure to comply with cultivation technology and violations in the care regime often causes problems to appear in the autumn. A diseased plant may shed its needles or become very yellow.

How to trim thuja in the fall (video)

For what reason does the thuja shed its needles in the fall?

There are several reasons for needle drop, but The most common and easily identified categories include:

• too strong and prolonged frosts, which have an extremely negative impact on the appearance of the crown, not too frost-resistant varieties Without high-quality insulation;
• severe drought in the autumn in the absence of high-quality freezing measures and drying out of the root system;
• sunburn, severely burning the youngest and most recently planted plants, in the absence of shading;
• too late and excessive application of chemical fertilizers, causing burns to the root system.

For what reason does the thuja turn yellow in the fall?

Natural browning of the conifer crown is often observed at the end of the growing season with the onset of late autumn. In this way, the plant adapts to the upcoming low temperature conditions. However, sometimes pronounced yellowing is the result of significant errors in care and violations of growing technology.

That's why It is strictly forbidden to carry out late autumn watering and transplanting, and also plant seedlings on sunny areas without the use of shading cover. Significant yellowing of needles can also be caused by excessive late fertilization and insufficient oxygen reaching the root system decorative culture.

If the yellowing of the needles is caused by fungal infections, then it is advisable to perform preventive treatment of the crown with zircon or any copper-containing preparations, including HOM and Bordeaux mixture. Spraying tree trunk circles with a solution based on foundationazole, as well as spraying the crown with Tornado Antiklesch, have very high results. Also, in the fall, quite often, experts recommend using the drug “Decis”.

Why does the thuja turn yellow (video)

Why does thuja bark crack in autumn?

Tears in the bark occur during the process of active growth of the cambium, which is located between the conifer bark and the wood. Through cracks formed in the bark, viral and fungal infections enter the wood, which can short time cause the death of decorative crops.

To restore the health of the plant, you need to completely stop applying complex fertilizers and growth accelerators, and also be sure to add monopotassium phosphate, or a mixture based on 15 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate, into the tree trunk circles, which will stop the rapid growth processes. It is recommended to treat cracks in the bark with a solution consisting of 15 ml of fufanon and 50 g of Abiga-Pik, diluted in a bucket of warm water. On final stage treatment, the cracks are cleaned and covered with garden varnish.