Why the rose does not bloom: reasons and their elimination. Why does the rose not bloom? The climbing rose does not grow or bloom.

When climbing roses bloom, rarely does anyone remain indifferent to this mesmerizing spectacle. The cascade of cascading flowers is not only beautiful, but also filled with fragrance.

All branches should not be placed only upward, because with such formation the bush will most likely become poorer, and the buds will bloom only at the top, explains an experienced florist Anna Blazhko.- It is better to place several of the largest branches horizontally on a vertical support, and let the rest grow as they please. This will produce a whole cloud of lush flowers, which will undoubtedly decorate a pergola, fence or wall.

How to do it? To encourage a climbing rose to produce more lateral flowering shoots, you need to secure its stem to a support in a horizontal or close to 45-degree angle. So, we fix the rose stem on one side of the support, then, when the stem stretches beyond the trellis, we move it in the opposite direction.

You can also make a fan out of branches. The shoots are positioned freely to the sides and upwards, without interfering with each other’s growth.

Some gardeners, in order to protect the climbing rose from cold weather and strong winds, place it near the house. And this is another mistake, the specialist notes.

Important nuance

Since most roses in our area are grafted and not rooted, it is possible to miss and not remove wild shoots from the rootstock in time - the bush onto which the cultivated sprout is grafted. These wild lashes gradually weaken the plant, and the rose can easily lose its varietal qualities. It is not difficult to recognize wild ones: they usually grow from below, have smaller and lighter-colored leaves, and also have a lot of thorns. However, when you see something like this, you shouldn’t immediately run for the pruning shears - first you need to dig up the ground, identify the insidious growth, and only then cut it off. If you do this above the soil, there will be no benefit - the unnecessary branch should be removed at the very base.

Place of registration

Caring for roses requires a lot of effort, however, many gardeners dream of these particular plants settling in their garden plot for many years. However, before you place them on a specific piece of land, learn more about the whims of these beauties.

All roses love the sun and do not tolerate wetlands with stagnant water. Therefore, try to find a well-lit and ventilated place for them on your site. And it is advisable that no roses have grown here before.

They need the sun like air, so that they not only bloom magnificently, but also have time to form new shoots over the summer, on which clusters of tremulous flowers will appear next year. Ideally, if you can find a place where the roses can also rest in the shade for a couple of hours a day - this will ensure they bloom for a long time.

Usually a hole for planting roses is dug at least 0.5 x 0.5 meters in size. Part of the soil is then lowered to the bottom, and river sand and humus are poured into the hole. If there is superphosphate, such fertilizer will work for many years on the strength and beauty of the plant - you can add at least 4 tablespoons.

Soft landing

Before planting, the rose seedling is soaked in water for a day, then it is cut off to at least 15-30 centimeters. The cut areas are treated with crushed charcoal. Climbing roses are planted so that the root collar is covered with a layer of earth of about 10 centimeters. Roses love loose, fertile soil.

How to fertilize

You can scatter them under the bush, and then cover them with soil and water them. Or dig a shallow circular furrow and fill it with fertilizer and nutritious soil. This is a long-lasting fertilizer that will dissolve every time you water or when it rains. Never apply fertilizer without first watering the soil - this can cause burns to the roots.

The ideal option is foliar feeding, says Anna Blazhko. - Fertilizers are quickly absorbed into the leaves without affecting the composition of the soil. But it’s better to do this in the morning so that the leaves dry out before the evening. They do not need strong moisture, as this can provoke the appearance of fungus.

When to plant

The best time is at the end of September - beginning of October. After two weeks, the rose will produce its first roots, which usually have time to adapt to new conditions before the first frost and the beginning of winter. Already in the spring, both the root and above-ground parts will be actively developing. By the time flowering begins, the plant will gain strength and will in no way be inferior to its older beauties.

You can plant a rose seedling in the spring, but it will require more careful care.

THE MAIN THING IS NOT TO OVERFEED

Climbing roses need proper nutrition. The bush should be fed according to the following scheme:

In the first year after planting, roses do not need to be fed at all.

As soon as the buds begin to form on the rose, it is necessary to use complex fertilizers based on nitrogen - 30 g per 1 sq. m. m.

Before the first flowering, climbing roses are treated with an infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20) in an amount of 3-5 liters per bush.

Immediately after the first wave of flowering, the rose should be fed with complex mineral fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen.

The last feeding is carried out after the bush has faded. This feeding is aimed at ripening the shoots - the rose is fed twice with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers or once with superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq. m.) before the end of the season.

THEY WILL GROW BY LEAST

Climbing roses and other roses are very fond of yeast feeding, but they need to be watered so that the prepared mixture does not fall on the leaves of the plants.

Take a 3-liter jar and fill it with water up to your shoulder. Add 100 g of fresh yeast diluted in warm water and half a glass of sugar. Cover the jar with gauze, take it to a warm place, and shake it periodically. When fermentation stops, the solution is almost ready. Dilute this mixture with water. Then take 1 glass of solution and pour it into 10 liters of water. Each bush needs approximately 1 liter of this fertilizer. To compensate for the lack of potassium and calcium, the soil should also be watered with ash infusion.

However, yeast feeding will work effectively if the soil is well warmed up.

Dry yeast is also used: 10 g per 10 l and 2 tbsp. l. Sahara. Then everything is the same as with fresh yeast.

Do your roses bloom poorly or refuse to do so at all? This means something went wrong. After all, in any normal and healthy rose, each shoot ends in a bud or inflorescence. What's the matter? There may be a whole “bouquet” of reasons why a rose does not produce flowers. Let's look at them.

Each rose shoot should end in either one bud or an entire inflorescence. Photo by the author

1. The first year doesn't count

Let's start with the fact that a rose in the first year of planting may not bloom - it all depends on the condition of the seedling, in what condition it was planted (whether it was in the refrigerator or arrived in a container already with buds), and the competent actions of the gardener during planting and care. Moreover, even if a young rose shows a desire to bloom, it is not recommended to give it this - let it better take root in a new place. You can only satisfy your curiosity and wait until one flower opens, which then is still better to pick.

One more note for beginner rose growers. Climbing rambler roses bloom only in the second year, and then only if wintering is successful. Therefore, if you planted a climbing rose from the rambler group in your garden, do not try to wait for it to bloom this summer. It will be necessary to carefully, according to all the rules, cover the growing shoots for the winter, which will bloom the next year.

2. Wrong landing site

When cultivating roses in the cold Russian climate, the planting location is of decisive importance. You should know that roses, these natives of the southern regions, are very sensitive to a lack of sunlight. They need at least 8 hours of full sun to fully develop and bloom. The degree of illumination determines the vigor of growth, the number of flowers, and the health of the rose bush. Therefore, it should be planted in as open an area as possible. This is an indispensable condition! If you planted a rose in the shade of trees, fences or buildings, you can’t expect flowering, it won’t happen.

Roses, due to their southern origin, are very heat-loving plants, so the planting site should be protected from drafts, especially from constantly blowing winds. When planting, delicate beauties should be provided with all the necessary environmental conditions - sunlight, fertile and permeable soils, lack of competition, which is why roses have long been planted exclusively in rose gardens or monoflower beds. With this method of placement, by the way, they are much easier to care for. You should not place roses next to shrubs such as lilac, mock orange or spirea, which will be powerful competitors in the fight for water and nutrients; in this case, the rose will be in a depressed state and will also not bloom.

3. Incorrect pruning

The next possible reason for the lack of flowering is improper pruning. In spring, some groups of roses (scrubs, English roses, climbing roses) should never be heavily pruned. For them, only a sanitary and light shaping haircut is used, when the tops are shortened to a strong bud. This is done to stimulate branching. You should not try to form a small bush rose from a tall scrub. By cutting its stems in half (as is sometimes recommended), you will significantly delay the flowering time, since the plant will take a long time to recover from this procedure, growing new shoots. But, interestingly, her growth pattern will remain the same, that is, all sacrifices will be in vain. In summer, in order to force the rose to produce new flowering shoots, it is necessary to promptly remove wilted flowers. If you live in a country house, it is advisable to do this every day, going out into the garden with pruning shears. If you neglect this rule, you will not wait for re-blooming.

In addition, all the so-called “blind” shoots that have not produced buds must be shortened (certainly by a strong bud) by about half, thereby encouraging the rose to branch. This technique allows you to achieve flowering. But this is all provided that the plant is healthy and receives enough sunlight and nutrition. One more nuance: if for some reason in the spring (you didn’t know, didn’t notice, or were simply lazy) you didn’t remove the thin and unproductive shoots growing inside the bush or close to the ground, which will never bloom, remove them in the summer. An important rule of English flower growers applies here: there should be no shoots thinner than an ordinary pencil on a rose bush. The rose, freed from them, will concentrate its forces on the flowering of the main ones.

You can learn about all the intricacies of pruning roses of different types in the Pruning Academy on our website. Take a look at Lesson 7. Pruning roses.

4. Improper care

The next possible reason why roses refuse to bloom is an incorrect, scientifically speaking, agricultural background. Rose is a plant of intensive care. It requires additional nutrition, timely spraying against numerous pests, and disease control. A weakened, underfed, depressed bush with leaves that have fallen from illnesses is unlikely to gain the strength to please you with flowering.

Rose - a plant of intensive care

However, one cannot overdo it here: often gardeners, trying to achieve maximum results in cultivating roses in their gardens, get too carried away with fertilizing. This is greatly facilitated by some printed publications, which advise giving roses almost weekly either root or foliar feeding. As a result, roses are overfed, energy goes into the foliage, and flowering is poor. It has been noticed that such plants winter much worse, since their shoots do not have time to properly become lignified. Therefore, fertilizing must be balanced in the composition of elements and justified. Watch your pets - if any signs of starvation suddenly appear, spots on the leaves, thin shoots, weak flowering - and only in this case come to the rescue. You can choose the appropriate fertilizer in our market. Take a look at the selection of products Fertilizers for roses - there you will find both long-acting granular fertilizers and liquid fertilizers. ^collection Do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers; potassium fertilizers are better suited for roses - potassium monophosphate, potassium magnesium. And it is best, as experience shows, to mulch rose plantings with horse manure in the spring. It acts on these plants in some miraculous way: roses grow strong, with healthy foliage, the flowers become brighter, stay on the bush longer and practically do not get sick!

5. Root growth

A rose that is literally “strangled” by root growth will not fully bloom. The rosehip shoot itself, on which cultivated varieties are usually grafted, does not bloom. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes mistake it for shoots of their roses. And the shoots must be removed immediately, as they take away the nutrients from the rose and choke it. The dominance of root shoots indicates that a mistake was made during planting - the seedling was not buried to the proper depth (3–5 cm).

Root shoots must be removed in a timely manner. Photo by the author

6. Bacterial burn

You need to know that shoots affected by bacterial burn, which happens after overwintering roses under cover, will never bloom. Such a shoot should not be left; it must be decisively and immediately cut out immediately after the cover has been removed, as it can infect the remaining stems of the bush. Sometimes it can be overlooked and not noticed right away, but over time it will not develop and will gradually dry out completely, never producing flowers.

Bacterial burn. Photo from the site our-flowers.rf 7. Aging

Old roses also bloom poorly. If you have been growing them for more than 3 years, it’s time to rejuvenate them. Why is this being done? The fact is that old rose wood does not conduct nutrients well; gradually the plant begins to bloom sparingly and eventually dies for unknown reasons. Therefore, every year in the spring, three-year-old shoots that have become very woody are cut out, in replacement of which the bush will produce new, young, green ones, and they will already pick up the baton of flowering.

The old shoot must be cut out at ground level. Photo by the author

Ambulance

So what should you do if the rose does not bloom? If your beauty, which suddenly refuses to bloom, is under 3 years old, “sits” in a good place, appears healthy, its stems are not affected by bacterial burn, and it is not oppressed by root shoots, then first of all it is proposed to carry out the following measures:

remove all unnecessary shoots - thin, blind, small, growing inside and at the bottom of the bush, and the “sorry” argument should not be taken into account in this case;

after this, carry out stimulating pruning on a strong leaf or bud (the rose itself will show this; usually a new shoot is formed in this place). Everything on top must be decisively removed;

Try these measures should help turn the situation around. And wait for the flowering! If it doesn’t happen, then return to the beginning of the article, analyze the situation with your particular roses and take action. We'll fix everything!

Of all the flowers, roses are considered the most revered in the world. They are symbols of countries, they are depicted on coats of arms and even give them magical properties. It is believed that roses grown in the yard help you find true love. A flower growing on a windowsill cleanses the house of negativity and brings harmony to it. Climbing roses have become especially popular in landscape design. They are used to make intricate compositions, use them to create hedges, and decorate arches and pergolas. But it happens that a climbing rose does not bloom. The sooner gardeners understand the reason, the greater the chance of saving the plants.

Reasons for lack of flowering and their elimination

The climbing rose does not bloom in the first year. When growing on a personal plot, this must be taken into account. You should also take into account what kind of roses they are: climbers or ramblers. The latter will also not please you with flowering in the first year; in addition, they are very demanding in care, especially in preparation for cold weather.

Unsuitable soil

The soil for climbing roses should be nutritious and loose. Depleted soil cannot give anything to the plant; it will not bloom. Sandy and clayey areas are also not the best option for climbing roses. The first type of soil is too dry, and the second is heavy, dries out slowly and does not allow oxygen to reach the roots.

Attention! Too heavy soils can be improved with sand, and sandy soils can be balanced with clay. It is useful to add vermicompost and humus to any soil.

Fertilizing will help enrich the soil composition. In the first year, fertilizers are not applied or only organic fertilizers are used. Infusions are made from chicken manure (concentration 1:20) or mullein (1:10). One bush requires 3 to 5 liters of solution. In spring you need to add ammonia (30 g/m2). The procedure is repeated every two weeks. When the buds begin to set, the plant needs nitrogen.

Lots of growth

Nutrients stimulate the growth of new shoots and stems of climbing roses. However, in parallel, root shoots develop near the bushes. Excess branches must be cut off immediately. If this is not done, the bush will become untidy and shapeless, and the varietal climbing rose will gradually turn into a wild one. The plant will devote all its energy to the formation of green mass, but it will not bloom.

Getting rid of root shoots is easy. You need to use a sharp blade to cut them off at the very surface of the earth. Small branches with thorns and leaves are also cut off. A neatly formed climbing rose bush is more resistant to pests and blooms profusely.

Incorrect pruning

When forming a bush, you need to follow some rules, otherwise it will not bloom:

1. Consider the variety of climbing roses. Some flowers bloom on last year's shoots. In the summer they are cut off, as they will no longer produce buds. The shoot is cut right to the base, and in its place 3 to 10 new ones will grow. Re-blooming varieties form differently. The main shoots are removed in the fourth year, when they are completely weakened and turn into ugly hanging lashes.
2. If the young shoots have grown too much and do not let light into the inside of the bush, they are removed.
3. Last year's shoots are trimmed very carefully, capturing only the upper part, where there are no formed buds.
4. It is better to cut stems that are too thick and have rough bark with a hacksaw.
5. The cut is usually made above the outer bud, holding the scissors at an angle. This way there will be no accumulation of excess moisture on it. Immediately after pruning, the branches are treated with disinfectants.
6. Anti-aging pruning is carried out in the spring, which stimulates the appearance of buds. They get rid, first of all, of branches that grow inside the bush, as well as diseased and thin stems.

It is worth remembering that if a climbing rose is pruned too much, the bush begins to develop incorrectly.

Lack or excess of fertilizers

If you overdo it with fertilizing, climbing roses will also not bloom. Nitrogen-based fertilizers are especially insidious. Their excess leads to rapid growth of shoots to the detriment of budding. The shoots become thick and densely overgrown with leaves, the roses do not bloom. Fertilizing with superphosphate, wood ash and potassium nitrate will help restore the balance of minerals in the soil. These fertilizers are much safer for climbing roses.

With a lack of minerals, problems arise not only with flowering. In this case, the stems are deformed, the root system suffers, and the leaves change their normal color. To ensure harmonious feeding, you can use complex fertilizers for climbing roses, strictly following the recommendations on the label.

Pest and disease damage

The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses include:

1. Rust. This disease manifests itself in warm, humid weather and is caused by the fungus phragmidium. The danger is that spores get onto the plant from clothing, skin or garden tools. The stems and leaves of the climbing rose are covered with orange spots, it does not bloom, and over time the green mass dries out and falls off. All leaves will have to be cut off, the bushes will have to be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture and 3% iron sulfate, and the soil will have to be dug up.
   
   
2. Powdery mildew.
   
   
3. Another fungal disease. It appears as a gray coating on the buds, branches and leaves. Plants are treated with various preparations: vitriol and potassium, colloidal sulfur, as well as a folk remedy - soap and soda.
   
   
4. Chlorosis. Appears from a lack of minerals in the soil. Leaves turn white or yellow. At this time, it is very important to feed the bushes with the necessary fertilizers.
   
   
5. Spider mite. Insects live on the underside of the leaves and feed on their sap, while they wrap themselves in a transparent web. An effective way to combat are tinctures based on tobacco, yarrow or wormwood.
   
   
6. Rose leaf roller. The body of the insect is black, with a glossy sheen. The eggs are laid in the axils of the leaves, the larvae penetrate into the stems and damage them, and the climbing rose does not bloom. Fufanon and Intavir help in the fight against this pest.
   
   

Bad landing site

In the first year of life, climbing rose bushes do not bloom. At this time, all the plant’s energy goes into adapting to the soil, weather conditions, as well as forming strong roots and healthy shoots. If the location is chosen incorrectly, the roses will not bloom.

Attention! Cuttings are planted in well-lit areas with moderate shading, where the soil is sufficiently warm. Full shade is not suitable. In summer, under such conditions, the stems unattractively stretch out in search of light, and in winter they freeze.

Another condition is a slight slope of the site. This way, excess moisture can drain calmly without stagnating and without provoking the development of rot and fungi. Climbing roses do not like strong gusts of wind and drafts; in such conditions they do not bloom. Bushes are usually planted separately. Shrubs or trees growing nearby will deprive climbing roses of the nutrients and moisture they need.

Wrong wintering

An important condition for the flowering of climbing roses is reliable shelter for the winter. Severe frosts alternating with thaws have a detrimental effect on the condition of the bushes and therefore they do not bloom. Plants are covered with synthetic material such as spunboard or lutrasil. For this, you may additionally need pegs, arcs or frames.

It must be remembered that the plant must breathe. An easier way is to press the shoots to the ground and place a layer of spruce branches or spruce sawdust on them. The use of polyethylene is not recommended. It creates a greenhouse effect, which causes buds to begin to bloom.

Aging

After about three years, climbing rose bushes become old. The shoots become woody, and a dense layer of dark bark appears on them. Almost no nutrients flow from the roots to the stems, and climbing roses do not bloom. The only way out is anti-aging pruning. After a while, young viable shoots will appear on the plants.

Conclusion

If the climbing rose does not bloom, do not be upset. This problem can be solved in a simple way by simply adjusting its care. Climbing roses require special attention and do not forgive mistakes. Only in ideal conditions will they delight gardeners with abundant and long-lasting flowering. Climbing roses will decorate large and small areas. They will turn an ordinary yard into a Garden of Eden, where harmony and beauty reign.

A rose is a royal flower, even if it is just one rose, but what can be compared to a million roses?...How to get a really grand, lush, rich bloom, and not just a few buds? Read about it below.

Flowering dates for garden roses

Climbing roses (in the photo below is a well-known representative of this group - rose) bloom in waves. Flowering starts at early summer. Flowering occurs throughout the month, many shoots grow and at the moment of flowering the entire bush is strewn with flowers, then it declines, and then the flowering gains strength again. There is also a hybrid of a climbing rose and a hybrid tea - Climber, they bloom 1-2 times per season. Climbing roses of Cordes will bloom until late autumn, like.

Climbing rose Rosarium Yuterson. Photo from ogorodsadovod.com

Hybrid tea rose begins to bloom from mid-June and continues to bloom until late autumn. Its striking feature is that there is not even the slightest interruption; flowering continues without pause.

Thus, it is necessary to distinguish when a rose has taken a natural break for it (study information about the variety and variety), and when there are some problems in care.

Reasons for the lack of flowers

Here we will look at errors that cannot be solved in one go. Solving these problems will require drastic measures: replanting, digging, time to restore the plant, studying literature, etc.

The very first rule is to buy seedlings from trusted gardeners. Since there are varieties that produce a small number of flowers, capricious and complex varieties, and no matter how you care for such plants, they will not produce abundant flowering.

The main reasons for the lack of flowers:

• A weak variety or low-quality seedling was selected for planting. A strong seedling is a plant no older than three years. The seedling must have a developed root system without signs of rotting. The bush should have from three to four developed shoots. The bark of the shoot should be green.
• Bad light. You should not expect abundant flowers from roses growing under trees. You may have noticed that the most lush rose bushes can be found in rose gardens. The bushes are planted in a brightly lit place, which is in the shade for three hours a day - this trick will extend the duration of flowering. From the shady and northern sides they are transplanted to a sunny place - after this the plant should be given time to adapt.
• The soil for planting is not prepared correctly. The soil for planting should be light, well permeable and at the same time retaining air and moisture. Under no circumstances should the soil be dense and prone to acidification. In order to improve poor soil, it is dug up with peat, compost, sand, humus, and also with the addition of other substrates that can make the soil lighter and more nutritious. If there is too much moisture, grooves are dug for drainage or drainage is organized.
• Insufficient depth during planting- the rootstock site is not deep enough and the “wild” shoots take nutrients from the cultivated plant.
• The seedlings are planted on the north side, or the place is too windy- roses don’t like this;
• Improper removal or pruning of renewal shoots, poor-quality pruning, ignoring blind shoots. For example, a hybrid tea rose blooms only on the shoots of the current year, and blind shoots (that is, those that do not produce flowers) can easily be turned into flowering ones. Let us remind you that pruning roses is almost the most important moment of regular care.
• Poor insulation of the bush in winter. After a stressful winter, the rose needs time to recover, there is no time for flowering. In winter, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, straw, roofing felt or spunbond. To prevent the weight of the snow from breaking the roses, the shelter is placed on special wooden supports or sticks. Roses should be covered when the leaves are completely dry. It is best to cover when the temperature has already reached -3 and no later.

Low-quality and high-quality seedling. Photo from the site agronomist.in.ua

Do roses bloom in the first year after planting and when can you expect flowers?

Depends on the type of rose and the seedling itself. With proper storage of seedlings in winter, as well as after planting, climbing roses bloom in the first year. As a rule, Rambler roses bloom. If the plant does not bloom, the shoots may have been frozen. But even if a rose does not bloom, and this happens for no apparent reason, it forms a beautiful bush and will definitely bloom next year - this can be explained by the fact that for flowering it needs a set of root and green mass.

The first flowering depends on the moment of planting, for example, if the plant was planted in September, then the growth of buds will already be noticed by the beginning of spring, and if the seedling was planted in the spring, then flowering will begin twenty days later, and care should be more thorough.

After the bush has faded, cut off all flower stalks. Rose hips should not be allowed to develop. You should also cut out all the old shoots, they are not needed and will not produce flowers. You should cut off 2/3 of all old peduncles, leaving 3 shoots.

When properly pruned, hybrid tea roses can bloom three times a year.

Errors in care as the reason for the lack of flowers

Here we will describe the reasons that can be eliminated without replanting the plant.

There are four global reasons:

1. Incorrect watering. Tea roses require plenty of water. By no means shallow watering, which is the sin of many novice gardeners! On average, they are watered once deeply, once every ten days. In hot weather, water once a week, 15 liters per hole around the bushes. It is best to water in the morning or evening, the main thing is that by night the leaves are completely dry from the water. After watering, the ground is mulched. For irrigation, settled or rainwater is used. The lack of moisture can be determined by the cessation of shoot growth, shedding of leaves and shredding of flowers.
2. Diseases of roses. The formation of plaque and rot on the stems. To do this, before sheltering in winter, the bush is checked for lesions and all bad shoots are cut off and burned. Spray with a solution of 3% vitriol. In the spring, the affected areas are cleaned, careful pruning is done, and tetracycline ointment is applied to the scraped areas. In summer, you should inspect the bush every two days and cut off the affected areas.
3. Lack of batteries. To nourish the plant, the following elements are used:
   • Nitrogen. Helps the development of leaves and shoots. Dilute 1 tablespoon per ten liters of water;
   • Phosphorus. Enhances root growth. You can determine that there is a shortage by looking at the leaves; spots and brownish-purple stripes appear. Feed with superphosphate at the rate of a large spoon per 10 liters of water;
   • Potassium. Identified by yellowed leaves. Helps the plant fight fungal diseases. Calculation: a large spoon for ten liters of water;
   • Magnesium. Helps photosynthesis. If there is a deficiency, colorless spots appear.
   • Iron. Yellowing of leaf edges. If there is a lack of iron, peat or acidic fertilizer is added to the soil.
   • Bor. If there is a shortage, the shoots die and the edges of the leaves bend. To feed, scatter ash near the bush and dig it into the ground.
   • Manganese. If the quantity is insufficient, the leaf veins turn yellow. For feeding, prepare a solution of 0.5% manganese sulfate.
4. Excess batteries. This is also the sin of many novice gardeners, who care for their plants diligently, but without understanding what’s what, and begin to fertilize everything. Overfeeding at random is just as bad as underfeeding! It is important to understand when and what fertilizers are needed:
   • complex - given at the beginning of spring, at the start of growth, during flowering this is of no use;
   • phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied either in spring or autumn during the last feeding;
   • nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass, so it is not appropriate in late summer and autumn;
   • Sometimes foliar feeding may be required (during prolonged rains).

What to do if the roses in the garden don't bloom

The procedure depends on the diagnosis. Which of the above reasons applies to your situation?

In its simplest form, you should act like this:

1. We choose a trusted seller and a good variety.
2. The rose must be grafted onto a frost-resistant rootstock.
3. At the same time, it is better to immediately discard northern, cold, windy places; choose a bright, warm, calm place for the rose. Roses are planted 50 cm from buildings or arches.
4. The plant does not bloom in heavy soil, so the soil must be dug up a meter deep in advance. The earth is saturated with peat, manure or humus. The soil must be nutritious, otherwise where will the lush flowers come from?
5. Professional pruning required. As a rule, the crown is cut with a fan.
6. After flowering, cut off the lashes and faded shoots. Feed the soil with potassium and phosphorus. When leaving a rose for the winter, be sure to cover it with a thick film and protect all shoots from rodents.

How to stimulate flowering

It happens that roses still bloom, but not as brightly as we would like. Causes:

1. Illiterate pruning. Not everyone knows that summer pruning allows you to prolong flowering; this is covered in popular and very sensible videos on the “Marina Flowers” ​​blog (for example, video from July 9, 2015, “Medium pruning of roses after the first flowering - for quick re-blooming”) .
2. Withered flowers remain on the bush. Attention - this is a fairly common reason for weak flowering! Wilted flowers must be removed in time, without pity. In order for the plant to bloom all the time, you need to inspect the bush and cut off dry branches and buds daily.

Photo from flowerbank.ru

Feeding

This is actually not such a simple matter. It is difficult to give unambiguous recommendations here, because everyone has different initial conditions. Let's see what practitioners recommend.

A user from the site rosebook.ru recommends fertilizing the plant during pauses with potassium monophosphate and an infusion of fermented grass. Forum user stilist advises feeding only until mid-July. He believes that for good growth, a properly laid planting pit with fertilizer plays an important role. In the fall, they are hilled with organic matter, and in the spring they are fed with complex fertilizer. Summer pruning is required.

There is also an opinion that feeding the bush is mandatory when the first shoots bloom.

The bush should grow at a slight slope and have a hole like a hole under the bush so that water does not stagnate. If a climbing rose does not bloom, pruning to form a crown is required; buds will form on the pruned branches. Also, to stimulate, a microclimate is created and the plant is sprayed. They dig a pit and a pool to create humidity.

If the bush is in the shade, it should be transplanted to a bright place. If it is hot, water at least once every two days.

For organic matter, gardeners use rotted horse manure and bury it in the soil. Nitrogen produces green leaf growth. Phosphorus helps the formation of flower stalks. Magnesium helps bud growth. Iron helps prevent rose diseases. Mineral fertilizers are also used for spraying - this is foliar feeding.

Proper planting of seedlings:

Photo from pseeksy.vepo.com

If you care for a rose correctly, it will bloom for more than 25 years.

About the correct planting of roses

Should the graft be deepened and for how long exactly? About this in the Garden World blog.