The climbing rose does not bloom for the second year. Climbing rose, planting and care in open ground, tips and recommendations. Reasons for lack of flowering and their elimination

Rose is a real aristocrat among garden crops. The plant belongs to the rose hip family and has over 300 varieties. The color palette of inflorescences knows practically no restrictions: traditionally pink, white, burgundy, blue and even lilac flowers are bred through selection. The length of the flowering plant can vary between 10-80 centimeters, depending on the variety. The number of petals of one flower sometimes reaches hundreds. It is curious, but the pampered and sophisticated flower is considered a rather unpretentious plant that can take root in arid climates and marshy soil. Gardeners are interested in why roses do not bloom in the garden, although all planting rules are followed - the reasons usually lie in improper care of the plant.

Purchasing planting material at spontaneously emerging markets, secondhand, or in non-specialized stores is usually the direct reason that the bush will not have fragrant buds. Sellers often offer buyers weak or diseased seedlings that are unable to take root. To grow such a bush, you will have to put in a lot of effort, and the result of your work will not always be positive. High-quality and strong planting material should be selected according to the following criteria:

• the age of the plant does not exceed 2-3 years;
• seedlings must have a developed root system, without rotten or dry branches;
• ideally, there should be 2-3 shoots on the bush;

Soil and fertilizers

The plant is considered unpretentious, but growing a fragrant rose bush in infertile soil is very problematic. In order for the plant to take root and produce flowers, the soil must be light, freely pass air and absorb moisture. This effect can be achieved by adding sand to the planting site and loosening the soil to a depth of 7 centimeters. You can improve the quality of the soil with compost or peat, which is laid to the depth of the bayonet of a shovel.

The second reason for the lack of color on rose bushes is excess fertilizer. Gardeners show excessive zeal in caring for the plant, adding large amounts of fertilizers and fertilizers to the soil. Signs of such efforts are green bushes without a single bud. To correct the situation, it is necessary to abandon nitrogen-based fertilizers, opting for wood ash or potassium-phosphorus compounds. During the growing season, it is recommended to feed roses with weakly concentrated mineral or organic fertilizers.

Trimming

Any garden plants need periodic pruning. Shrubs, which include roses, are no exception. Pruning is the removal of old or diseased shoots, aimed at rejuvenating the plant and creating new fruit ovaries and buds. You need to prune the rose in the spring, removing perennials (over 3 years old) and shoots directed into the bush. In addition, branches damaged by frost or harmful insects are pruned.

The number of shoots removed and retained directly depends on the individual characteristics of the plant. Dark branches with coarsened and damaged bark are completely removed; when pruning healthy branches, it is recommended to adhere to the following scheme:

• strong - 1-3 buds from the base;
• medium - no more than 7 buds;
• weak - up to 10 buds.

The cuts are made carefully, obliquely, using sharply sharpened garden shears. This helps prevent healthy shoots from being crushed. Only the outer buds are left to prevent new branches from growing inside the bush and to give the plant a cup-like shape.

Bad wintering

Roses must be covered in winter, by preliminary hilling and adding rotted peat or fallen leaves to the soil. Such precautions protect the plant from cold, prevent young shoots from breaking off under the weight of snow, and maintain an optimal level of humidity in the spring. Improper wintering is one of the key reasons for the lack of buds in a garden rose.

When preparing shrubs for winter, inexperienced gardeners make a common mistake: fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers from the second half of summer. This stimulates the active growth of young shoots, which are unable to withstand the winter cold and therefore die, spreading rot and disease to healthy branches.

Wild rootstock

This grafting method is typical for most varieties of roses grown in Russia. The technique is designed to increase frost resistance and viability of plants. In cases where wild growth begins to dominate, the bush degenerates and stops blooming. It is easy to identify such shoots by their appearance: a large number of thorns, small leaves. Remove the wild rootstock completely, cutting off the branch at the root. The removal site is sprinkled with crushed coal to eliminate the possibility of infection.

Blind shoots also have a negative effect on the flowering of roses. These are branches whose tops are completely devoid of foliage and buds. You should not regret such branches: complete removal will give strength for the development and strengthening of other shoots.

Improper watering

The rose tolerates drought well, but the plant needs watering at least once a week. These are mandatory conditions for the full development of the bush. It is recommended to water the plant according to the following rules:

• cold water is completely excluded - low temperatures provoke fungal diseases;
• abundance of moisture - the soil is loosened near the root system, sides are created to prevent water from spreading;
• compliance with standards - in normal times, one bush uses a bucket of water, during a long drought the dosage is doubled.

Important! After moisture has been absorbed into the soil, mulching is carried out and the soil is sprinkled with wood ash. This creates natural protection against weeds, prevents the development of fungus, and helps retain moisture.

The purpose of planting roses in the garden is to enjoy luxurious blooms. If it does not occur, it means that a mistake was made during planting or during the leaving process.

Reasons for delayed flowering

Even if one of the needs of the queen of the garden is not taken into account, the plant is capricious.

Bad place

Roses prefer a sunny location. Having planted them in deep shade, you may not even wait for flowering. The ground under the bush should warm up well. This stimulates the formation of new buds on the graft, from which flowering shoots grow. Therefore, experienced specialists do not mulch roses.

In the northern regions, roses need sun throughout the day, in the south - enough in the first half, then scattered shade

Recent landing

It is premature to expect flowering in the first year after planting. Even if it occurs, it will be weak, sometimes even uncharacteristic of the variety. It is better not to let the rose bloom, but to pinch the buds when they reach the size of a pea. A young bush should first grow strong roots.

Climbing ramblers do not always bloom in the second year, unless the shoots have overwintered well.

If a first-year rose has buds larger than a pea, it is better not to pinch them off, but to let it bloom

Wildness

Usually roses are grafted onto rose hips. If the grafting is done poorly or when planting it is not buried 5 cm below the soil level, then shoots may grow from the rootstock. If you don’t get rid of it, the bush will become depleted and the scion will degenerate. It is necessary to promptly remove wild animals from the ring. They are distinguished by thin shoots with a large number of thorns and small leaves.

Over time, unpruned rose hips will completely choke the varietal rose

How to remove rose hips - video

Incorrect placement of lashes

If a climbing rose does not bloom, make sure that the branches are attached to the support correctly: spirally or obliquely. Otherwise, the buds that are located higher up the shoot secrete substances that stop the formation of flower buds at the bottom of the stem.

Horizontally arranged rose vines bloom profusely

Problems with pruning

If black spots with a red border appear on the shoots, this is an infectious burn. The disease is incurable, the affected branches will never bloom, so they are cut to the ground.

Infectious burn is caused by fungi, most often roses get sick in the spring after an unsuccessful wintering

Usually each stem ends in flowers. If they are not there, it is a blind shoot with a frozen growth point, which is cut off by half to force it to branch and bloom.

During the summer, faded buds are removed to encourage re-blooming. The fruits that set take away a lot of nutrients. But there is an exception to the rule: at the end of August, faded roses are not pruned, so as not to encourage them to form new shoots. The latter will not have time to bloom, will freeze in the winter and become a gateway for infection.

By pruning faded roses, we stimulate a new wave of flowering

On three-year-old shoots, bud formation stops due to impaired sap flow. They are cut into a ring near the graft itself to rejuvenate the rose. On rooted specimens, the “oldies” are cut off at soil level. This stimulates the growth of new shoots and prolongs the life of the rose.

Beginning gardeners should learn to distinguish between groups of roses, since improper formation of a bush prevents it from blooming. Climbing, English, and park groups do not tolerate radical spring pruning. They only slightly shorten the tops of the shoots to the first large bud. The remaining shoots are cut out only if they are old or diseased.

English roses by David Austin are very whimsical, but bloom luxuriously

Violations of agricultural practices

Both excess and lack of nutrition can stop flowering. It is important to observe moderation. The rose is fed if it needs it: the shoots and leaves become smaller, spots appear on them. In June - July, nitrogen fertilizers and 1-2 feedings are given. Ideally, in the spring, the soil under the bushes is sprinkled with rotted horse manure - the best organic “food” for roses. But an excess of nitrogen is also fraught: the plant fattens, forgetting about flowering, and becoming especially attractive to aphids and various fungi.

At the beginning of spring, roses are fed with nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate

From the end of July, nitrogen is canceled and they switch to potassium and phosphorus fertilizers: ash, potassium magnesium, potassium monophosphate. These substances help the vines to ripen, overwinter and bloom in the spring.

In my practice, there were cases when roses did not bloom. This usually happened in the first year after planting, so I wasn't worried. To make the bushes take root better, I fed them with humates. At the end of August I watered it with infusion of ash. I didn’t use anything else, since I fill the planting hole well with mineral fertilizers and humus. As you know, in such cases it is advisable not to feed the rose for the first two years. For the winter, I hill up the bushes with the following mixture: rotted sifted compost (or manure), soil, sand and ash. In the second year I usually wait for the flowering to take my breath away.

Emergency room for roses

If all requirements are met, the shoots are healthy, but do not bloom, follow these steps:

• remove to the ring all frail branches growing inside or at the bottom of the bush, including mole rats;
• cut off the remaining normal shoots (the size of a pencil or thicker) above the most well-developed bud or leaf;
• feed the rose with potassium humate with microelements (according to the instructions on the package);
• when young sprouts appear from the leaf axils of the pruned main shoots, spray the rose with a flowering biostimulator, for example, Bud.

The listed measures will encourage the queen of the garden to bloom.

Potassium humate revives roses

Correct pruning of blind shoots - video

For a rose to bloom, it is important to provide it with conditions: light, nutrition, care. If necessary, the plant is provided with emergency assistance in the form of special feeding and flowering-stimulating pruning.

The climbing rose is one of the most striking decorations in the garden, but sometimes it ceases to please with its abundant flowering. Why doesn't the climbing rose bloom? Professional flower growers will tell you about the reasons and how to eliminate them.

Climbing roses have excellent decorative properties; they are used in the design of arches, arbors, fences, garlands, columns, etc. It is a real tragedy for a gardener if a climbing rose does not bloom.

Why don't climbing roses bloom?

1. Unsuitable soil

Climbing roses love loose, fertile soil. If these plants are not flowering, they are likely lacking nutrients. Then they need to be fed. In general, climbing roses are fed according to the following scheme:
In the first year after planting, you can not feed roses at all or feed them with organic matter: infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20) at the rate of 3-5 liters per bush.
In the spring, after removing the cover and pruning, it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. After 2 weeks, fertilizing should be repeated.
At the beginning of budding, another feeding is carried out. This time you can use complex fertilizers based on nitrogen (for example, Kemiru Lux (30 g per 1 sq.m)).
Before the first flowering, climbing roses need one more feeding. An infusion of mullein (1:10) and chicken manure (1:20) in an amount of 3-5 liters per bush is suitable for this.
After the first wave of flowering (late July - early August), roses should be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers (according to instructions), preferably not containing nitrogen.
The last feeding is carried out after the rose has flowered and is aimed at ripening the shoots. To do this, you should use superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq.m.).
It is also worth remembering that before planting the bush, the soil must be loosened to a depth of 70 cm. Unsuitable soil or its poor-quality treatment affect the flowering and number of buds of the plant.

2. Wild growth

Roses often form shoots - these are small branches with leaves and thorns that appear in the root zone. If the shoots that thicken the bush are not removed in a timely manner, the plant will begin to grow wild and stop blooming. Root shoots should be trimmed close to the ground. And it is advisable to do this in a timely manner.

3. Excess nitrogen fertilizers

Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers promotes the growth of lush green mass, which has a detrimental effect on the process of bud formation. It is better to replace nitrogen fertilizers with a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphate.

4. Diseases of climbing roses

Among the large list of rose diseases, powdery mildew and bark cancer most often affect these plants. Preventive measures against powdery mildew are to spray dormant buds and shoots twice with 1% Bordeaux mixture. But the prevention of bark cancer will be feeding climbing roses with potassium fertilizers (in September, superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20-30 g each), correct and timely covering of plants for the winter, destruction of affected shoots, ventilation of plants covered for the winter during thaws.

5. Wrong landing site

Sometimes flower growers plant the queen of flowers in an unsuitable place for her, which can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but also to the death of the plant itself. It is important to know that climbing roses do not tolerate drafts and shade very well.

6. Poor preparation for winter

Roses require special shelter for the winter, as they can die not only from low temperatures, but also from dampness during the winter thaw. Therefore, do not forget about the air gap between the plant and the shelter. From the end of summer, you should stop loosening the soil and frequent watering, eliminate nitrogen fertilizers (leave only potassium fertilizers), cut out all wild growth, weak and damaged shoots.

7. Incorrect pruning

Climbing roses only need to remove old shoots and wild growth. Excessive pruning of young branches is undesirable, as this does not allow the bush to grow normally. Prune roses moderately so that they do not spend a lot of energy recovering from this procedure.

Now that it’s clear why climbing roses don’t bloom, you can fix everything and plant a climbing rose along the column.

How to let a climbing rose climb a column?

If there is not enough space in your garden for lush thickets of climbing roses, but you still want to have a “pink” corner, you can try to cover a column with roses.
They begin to form an adult climbing rose bush around the column after spring pruning.

1. Choose a sturdy support for the rose. It can be either a long wooden beam or a beautiful decorative column. The main condition is strength. After all, you don't want poor quality Has this support broken under the weight of flowering vines?
2. Securely install the column 40 cm from the bush. It is necessary to dig the support deep into the ground and perhaps even concrete the base. In this case, you won’t have to worry that the support will fall under the pressure of the first squally wind and bury all your dreams of a beautiful column covered with roses.
3. Begin to wrap the main strands around the column in a spiral. Again, keep in mind that lush flowering can only be achieved if the shoots are located at an angle of no more than 45 degrees relative to the support.
4. It is not necessary to grow short side shoots around columnar ones. It will be enough to carefully lift them and tie them to a support with soft tape or place them between the main shoots. This will add dimension to your floral design.
5. Tie the shoots loosely around the column at the very top of the support to prevent the bush from falling apart under the weight of the inflorescences.

Sometimes even experienced flower growers find it difficult to say why a rose does not bloom. Knowing the basic rules of caring for a beautiful flower will allow you to enjoy its magnificent colors and delicious aroma.

When breeding roses, you need to be prepared for the fact that theoretical recommendations from experts and the real situation in practice may have some inconsistencies with each other. Therefore, even experienced gardeners find it very difficult to determine why a rose does not bloom. The reason for the lack of buds on a bush can be either insufficient air humidity, impurities in the soil, the composition of local water, or insufficient knowledge of the basics of caring for this beautiful flower. Let's look at the main mistakes gardeners make. Read about

The rose does not bloom: the bush runs wild

In most cases, the roses growing in our area are grafted and not rooted. Therefore, you may not notice the appearance of wild growth from the rootstock of a bush on which a cultivated rose is grafted. Such wild shoots weaken the bush, and it gradually loses its varietal properties. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to promptly remove this insidious growth, which is located at the very bottom. It is easy to identify by its very small leaves and large number of thorns. As soon as you see such a whip, tear up the ground and boldly cut it off at the very base.

Soil quality

Often a rose does not bloom due to inappropriate soil structure or improper cultivation. To prevent this from happening, you should not plant it in dense, heavy soil. To obtain a lighter composition, you can add sand under the bush and gently loosen it to a depth of 5-7cm.

Fertilizer application

The reason why a rose does not bloom on a site may be a lack or excess of fertilizers applied to the soil. The main sign of excess nitrogen fertilizing is the active growth of lush foliage without the formation of buds. The situation can be corrected by adding phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or ash.

The rose menu should include low concentration fertilizing from an infusion of liquid organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Nutrient mixtures are introduced alternately, alternating them every two weeks.

Pruning a rose bush

The purpose of pruning a bush is to rejuvenate it, which allows you to increase the abundance of flowering. The event is held every spring, thereby ridding the plant of weak, diseased and unproductive shoots, and the remaining ones receive impulses for further development.

First of all, when pruning, all weak, diseased branches damaged by frost and disease are removed. Next, the shoots that are directed inside the bush are pruned.

This will ensure ventilation of the inside of the rose and eliminate possible accumulation of pests and fungal diseases.

Next, all unproductive shoots are removed, which include branches older than 3 years. They are easily identified by their highly woody trunk and dark color. It is on such branches that in most cases buds do not appear, since their vessels have lost elasticity and are completely clogged with salts. The remaining shoots are shortened in accordance with the rose variety. Pruning can be done to 3-4 buds (short), 5-7 buds (moderate) and up to 8 buds (weak).

Wintering a rose bush

Also, the rose does not bloom as a result of improper wintering. To avoid freezing and exposure to moisture before the onset of cold weather, the rose bush should be covered with rotted peat, covered with protective material or fallen leaves. Experienced gardeners also make special cones from polystyrene foam and cover the plants with them.

In addition to the above reasons, when choosing a variety, pay attention to its features. Since the reason why a rose does not bloom may be that the conditions of your site do not correspond to its full development.

Video: blind shoots of roses

Rose is the queen of the flower garden and the estate. But what if the expectations of abundant flowering were not met, and the rose bushes pleased only with lush greenery. Asking the question “Why do roses not bloom but bush?” It is necessary to answer several other questions and analyze what exactly is wrong.

There may be several reasons for poor flowering of a bush. By denying and analyzing each of them, you can find the answer to the question asked.

The reasons why roses do not bloom but bush may be of the following nature:

• incorrectly chosen landing site;
• improper feeding (not with the right amount, and not with the right amount);
• landing site - shade, partial shade

If you decide to equip an old garden with a rose garden, where there are huge trees, fences and vines, and you really want to bring some light into it, then preference should be given only to the latest selections. If a rose is planted, but it was bred in the last century, then no matter how beautiful it is, it will not bloom in a sunny area, in partial shade.

Very often, compatriots visiting Europe do not even think that the rose gardens created there, with the play of light and shadows, lovely aromas and breathtaking views, are a finely selected varietal assortment. Trying to realize what he saw, the planting is followed by disappointment, since in the shade the rose “drives” abundant foliage, and the flowering is either absent or very sparse.

How to choose a place to plant roses

The answer to the question why roses do not bloom but bush, also depends on the place where the bush is planted. When planting a rose bush, you must be guided exclusively by the agrotechnical characteristics of the variety. If a rose is selected for partial shade, then the description of the variety must certainly indicate “The variety is tolerant of shade” or simply “Pentumbra is allowed.” Otherwise, flowering will be sparse.

What should I do? Several options are possible:

• trim huge tree branches (at least provide eastern lighting);
• transplant the bush to a well-lit place.

Also, roses can and should decorate the northern walls of our houses. But, again, preference should be given to the newest varieties that are adapted for flowering from the north side.

If the rose is of unknown origin and planted at random, on the north side, there is no need to wait for flowering.

Moreover, return frosts can destroy tender young shoots, and flowering will also be absent.

How to feed roses

Having planted a rose bush, gardeners are in such a hurry to get lush blooms that diligence in fertilizing leads to the opposite result. As a result of the use, especially nitrogenous ones, the bush becomes fattened when it grows annual shoots that exceed the variety in thickness and length. In this case, the question arises - Why do roses not bloom but bush?

The main mineral fertilizer for roses is nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, urea). They are the ones who will give strength to the growth of shoots and ensure foliage. However, a high dose of these fertilizers:

• in spring and in the first half of summer - it will delay flowering, or even stop it altogether;
• in the second half of summer - will prevent the ripening of shoots;
• the resulting buds will rot without ever entering the flowering phase;
• will promote the growth of fatty shoots and attract aphids to young and juicy pink branches.

Rose bushes overfed with nitrogen have fatty shoots with weak branching and no flowering. If the spruce bush has not set buds by mid-July, it is cut back by a third.

What fertilizers do roses like?

Phosphorus fertilizers for roses

If a rose bush is planted in soils of light granulometric composition with an acidic reaction, then this element is in an inaccessible form. In order for the plant to be able to use the element to form buds and flowers, it is necessary either:

• add organic matter (microflora will process inorganic phosphorus into organic, accessible, digestible - but for a long time);
• Apply water-soluble phosphorus fertilizers in the form of, for example, superphosphate.

It is necessary to apply only in dissolved form so that the element reaches the level of the root system. It is also necessary to take into account that as soon as the soil dries out, the absorption of the element stops.

Potash fertilizers for roses

Without the optimal amount, the formation of buds is also not possible. Moreover, potassium helps to increase the immunity of the rose bush, resistance to both adverse weather conditions and infectious diseases.

Among potash fertilizers for roses, potassium sulfate is the most suitable. Rose growers prefer this drug because:

• the fertilizer does not cake;
• applicable on any soil;
• highly soluble in water.

Complex fertilizers for roses

Agrochemistry is a rather complex science and it is not always possible to create the composition necessary for roses yourself. That is why scientists agreed and put into production ready-made, complex preparations specifically for roses.

It is not at all difficult to purchase them now, and using the instructions you can carry out high-quality fertilizing, both at the root and foliar.

In places of sale, especially large floriculture centers, sales managers can give comprehensive advice on timing and doses, and will also help you decide on the choice of mineral fertilizer specifically for roses. It is necessary to take full advantage of their knowledge and experience.

How not to overdo it with fertilizers

The use of complex feeding of organic fertilizers together with mineral fertilizers promotes the best absorption of all nutrients.

Using a scheme proven by rose growers, you can avoid fattening and achieve abundant flowering.

If during planting the root hole is generously filled with fertilizers, then no fertilizing is carried out in the first year. The schedule for next year is something like this:

1. The first feeding is carried out as soon as the roses begin to grow intensively. It varies in different regions, but approximately 2-3 weeks after the spring opening. 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate is dissolved in a bucket of water;
2. the second feeding during the period of intensive growth of shoots. For a bucket of water take 1 kg of cow manure, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate;
3. the third feeding in early July is carried out with the same components, but without ammonium nitrate, and the dose of potassium sulfate is increased to 30 g.

Features of soil and climatic conditions for roses

When planting a rose bush and especially fertilizing, it is necessary to take into account that clay soils retain nutrients for a long time, so the amount of nutrients supplied should be limited.

If the soils are sandy, then leaching occurs quickly, and the soils become “fresh”, therefore, fertilizing needs to be done more often, but in small doses.

If the summer is rainy, then nutrients are quickly washed out from the root zone of the plant, and they must be renewed in a timely manner.

During hot summers, fertilizing is reduced and watering is increased.

When roses are not fed

The rose bush blooms in waves. After feeding the plant and waiting for the first wave, you need to:

• fully enjoy the flowering;
• prune what has faded;
• give the opportunity to “rest” for 1.5-2 weeks, during this period complex biochemical processes take place, in which there is no point in interfering;
• remove in a timely manner, easily loosen and regularly water the root zone.

It is necessary to wait with fertilizing until new growth points appear and at that moment give the next fertilizing.

Considering the question “Why do roses not bloom but bush”, having weighed all the features of your rose kingdom, you can easily identify the reasons and try to eliminate them. This does not always work out in the current flower season, but next year roses will certainly delight you with an abundance of fragrant and beautiful flowers.