Sawing chipboard with a hacksaw. How to cut chipboard without chipping in a home workshop. Processing chipboards after cutting
In the process of making furniture yourself, the contractor may need to cut or trim the laminated chipboard for subsequent use. Of course, it is best to perform this operation by sawing, but if necessary and to reduce labor intensity, it is quite possible to cut laminated chipboard at home (using a jigsaw). Moreover, it is very important to implement this procedure in such a way as to minimize the number of chips and thereby create an even cut.
Why do chips appear?
Before cutting laminated chipboard or laminate using a jigsaw, it is advisable to understand why chips form when cutting sheet material. And the answer here is simple: everything lies in the design of the jigsaw, or rather in the design of the nail file.
So, during the cutting process, the file receives return movements (up and down). And if when the saw moves along the teeth (usually downwards) chips practically do not form, then when the tool moves in the opposite direction, the teeth seem to be torn out upper layer material, thereby forming an unflattering chip. That is why you can observe an almost perfect cut on the bottom side of the chipboard and a chipped cut along its upper edge.
Ways to minimize chipping
An additional reason for the formation of chips may be misalignment of the saw teeth. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is purchase a tool with a straight cut (often Bosh files). However, it should be taken into account that during prolonged use, such files overheat and may even bend during the cutting process. Therefore, it is necessary to take breaks from work to cool the cutting tool.
However, just replacing the saw blade is not enough and in order to cut laminated chipboard (laminate) with a jigsaw without chipping, you need to make minor modifications to the power tool. Namely, make sure that when the saw moves against the inclination of the tooth, the material does not pull out. For this purpose it is enough to make a persistent platform. This conclusion can be reached by trying to cut through two laminated chipboard sheet. So there will be practically no chips on the lower element.
In order to make a stop pad for a jigsaw, it is enough to cut out a rectangle from any dense material (for example, laminate) with dimensions identical to the dimensions of the sole of the power tool.
Then, along the larger center line, you should make a notch and secure the resulting equipment to the sole of the jigsaw using insulation tape or double sided tape. All modifications are ready and can be done finishing work in compliance with certain recommendations.
Firstly, as mentioned above, you should use a jigsaw file with a straight cut.
Secondly, in order to better control the cutting process, it is justified marking line Apply laminated chipboard on both sides and check the accuracy of processing on top and bottom.
And thirdly, take constant breaks from work to cool the cutting equipment.
Sometimes the solution is this issue This can be done by simply cutting through the laminated layer of material using a mounting knife, and subsequent work with a jigsaw will no longer cause large defects in the form of chips. However this work requires the performer to have certain experience and accuracy.
Chipboard is a chipboard, a common material. Currently, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.
The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, homogeneity of the material (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, and fungi.
Chipboard can be sawed, planed, milled, nails or screws driven into it, drilled, cut. It can be used to make various parts of almost any shape. Possible use different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. The material is mainly used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work; after all, it is wood. Chipboard covers walls, decorates residential and industrial premises. But with all the advantages, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will discover how to avoid this problem and share some tips.
Preparing for work
Conditions
It must be remembered that for quality work Several conditions must be met.
- Install the stove correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard board must be fixed so that it does not “move out” during operation.
- The tool must be in good working order.
- It is necessary to saw the chipboard board only with a saw with fine teeth (this is important for coated boards, since a saw with fine teeth does not crumble the material).
- It is best to apply masking tape to the cut line.
- You must strictly follow safety precautions.
Compliance with all the above conditions will guarantee receipt good results from the work done.
Expert advice
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Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to saw off chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a tire and without a regular guide circular saw.
We will show it using a hand-held circular saw as an example, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get similar quality cuts with a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.
What affects the quality of chipboard cutting?
IN in this case We will be sawing chipboard, this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, quite delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, he has a tough adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.
Saw blade. How to choose it?
When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be durable, because the properties of the glue are very close to glass and dull the tool itself quite quickly. Therefore, in the process cutting chipboard you need to choose enough good wheels to cut with them without loss of quality for a long time.
What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?
If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of burrs, because “by hand” it is practically impossible to guide the saw straight through the cut.
On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disc has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard workpiece and leave marks on it.
It is important to place the workpiece face down. Why?
The disk rotates from bottom to top; it cuts the pile of the workpiece upward onto the base. Thus, below, on the front side, we always have a clean surface. Problems begin to form at the top, where the teeth exit the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, and piles happen.
How to minimize them, or avoid them altogether? There are several simple techniques and we will tell you about them now.
Technique 1. Cutting along the guide
We install a guide (bar) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and make the cut. As you can see for yourself, even on outside There are no chips or explosions in our chipboard workpiece. The cut itself was smooth with no signs of scoring or side waves. Why such difference?
What is the merit of the guide?
When we saw with a disk, we inevitably move the saw, the so-called “iron movement” is obtained. That is, when we move our hand, we constantly move the saw to the right and left. A guide that has a hard edge allows you to avoid this.
Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself works smoothly, without changing its position. The result is an ideal line parallel to the guide.
What to do if you don’t have a hand-held circular saw and guide?
You need to make the guide yourself. We find regular profile, you can take the rule, any smooth slats, the main thing is that its geometry is smooth.
We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We attach the guide to the workpiece using any clamp and begin cutting.
The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always guide the saw towards the homemade tire.
After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We performed the cut very efficiently, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. With the exception of a small pile on the back side of the workpiece.
Where did this lint come from, since we were working with a guide (tire)?
The purchased cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape prevents the pile from rising and the saw cuts it. In this case, we didn’t have this tape, so we got this lint on the surface.
What to do with the pile in this case?
There are two options:
1. Take regular masking tape. It is glued to the place of the cut, markings are made on it and sawed together with masking tape. The tape holds the ingrown in place and when cutting we get everything clean.
2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same thing with a slower feed, then there will be much fewer chips.
Technique 2. “Reverse cut.”
The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates as the workpiece is fed. We set the minimum cutting depth, turn on the saw and move not forward, but backward.
If you have a regular saw, then simply fix the saw with minimal overhang beyond the base. The point of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only catches our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.
Having made the first - trimming cut - you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (backwards). The surface is perfect!
Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - forward feed. We will get two cuts per workpiece. No wave cuts, arson, nothing - perfect quality!
Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chipping
LDSP is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination occurs at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface turns out beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal influences and mechanical damage, which makes the chipboard very attractive appearance in the manufacture of furniture and when finishing the interior of the room.
A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture themselves and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or ordinary construction stores. A wide range of colors when laminating the surface allows you to easily choose required material. Textures also have a variety: it can be embossed to look like wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, and also imitate a natural stone or wood.
But to make it yourself exclusive interior or unique furniture, it is not enough to simply purchase chipboard. The laminated coating has a very fragile structure. If not correct actions The cutting of laminated chipboard turns out to be very ragged, and deep cavities appear on the edges. In order to cut laminated chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.
Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard
Cut laminated chipboard at home you can use circular saw, jigsaw, hand saw with fine teeth. For all work to be successful, you should:
- Fix very tightly along the main cut line duct tape, which does not allow the teeth to damage the front surface.
- Using a sharp knife, make a cut along the cutting line in the laminated coating. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, having only a tangential effect on the coating.
- Pilou manual type, should be placed under very acute angle relative to the board covering.
- Sawing with electric tool with minimal feed.
- On this part, cut off the surface edge layer at an angle of 45 degrees with a thin knife.
- Sanding the cut area should be done with a small file, sanding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.
To subsequently protect the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped overlay edge, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.