DIY brick stove diagrams. Laying brick stoves: pros and cons of the material, choice of bricks, location of the stove, stages of work and rules for further operation. Arrangement of the base for a brick kiln

Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating your home and cottage

Even a novice mason can easily build a brick oven for his home with his own hands. Due to the abundance and accessibility of information, you just need to choose a suitable design with an order and a detailed description of all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's take a closer look at how to build a brick oven with your own hands.

The furnace starts from the foundation

Even a small brick oven built with your own hands in a country house or in a bathhouse weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to place it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.

The upper cut of the foundation coincides with the level of the subfloor. Particular attention must be paid to ensuring that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid distortion of the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove maker.

Two layers of roofing felt, glassine or durable construction film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. A steel sheet and a layer of heat insulation are laid on top of the waterproofing (so that the heat does not escape into the foundation). The bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid on this entire “pie” for the future brick oven with your own hands.

Preparation of mortar for stove masonry

Unlike an ordinary wall, a brick stove is built with your own hands not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of mortars for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.

Mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are characterized by high fire resistance and can withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for preparing fire-resistant masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.

Mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared using ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many construction supermarkets.

For 100 pcs. bricks will require about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by test batches. This is done as follows:

• The clay is soaked in cold water for a day.
• The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each part, respectively.
• All resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.

We test samples:

• roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
• If cracks larger than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is unsuitable.
• With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
• If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, this solution is quite suitable for making a stove with your own hands.

Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good oven clay, the essence of the tests comes down to determining the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.

DIY brick oven for home video

Brick laying technology

The furnace diagram provided below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high percentage of successful results. A DIY brick oven is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allocated for the oven is only 0.4 square meters. m. A very small amount of brick is used for construction, so it weighs very little.

Laying the stove begins from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, a thin layer of washed river or mountain sand can be poured under the brick. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will serve as an additional heat insulator.

Basics of choosing building materials

The thickness of the mortar between bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the most even bricks with the same dimensions - since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!

On the second row we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. The door is secured with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut into the brick using a grinder for it.

The third row is laid out from fireclay bricks. The grate bars are placed on it after the clay has set.

The fourth row of stoves is laid on edge. If the grate bars do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, ensuring 3 mm gaps on all sides.

When laying a brick stove, it is important to know!

The rear “kick-out” brick is installed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.

On the fifth row, similar to the ash room, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid out flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.

The seventh - ninth rows are laid out flat again. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the ninth row. Asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.

Using a cord to seal masonry

Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay solution will quickly crumble from the thermal expansion of the cast-iron stove.

The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.

After the masonry has completely dried, the “knockout” brick is pulled out and construction debris is removed from the channel. To prevent sand from spilling out from under the stove, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.

Brick stoves for summer cottages video

Choosing pipes for the chimney

The chimney for this stove will be any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for a circular section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the combustion chamber grate is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the pipe can be increased by 25-50 cm.

Brick oven finishing

The finished masonry of the stove is whitewashed on the outside with simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. Fat milk can be added to the water as a binder. And regular blue will help prevent yellowness from appearing.

If you are deciding how to build a higher-level stove, choose one of the available options for upgrading it:

• covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
• external metal screen;
• decorative jointing or painting the seams with heat-resistant paint.

Laying with bricks and tiles should be planned in advance, since during the construction process the external elements are connected with the masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and is best left to professional stove makers. It is better to install the metal screen not closely, but at some distance from the body of the furnace. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the rate of heating of the room.

Bottom line

Knowing how to build a stove in your home with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating to any small room. The experience gained during the first construction will become the basis for further improvement of this sought-after skill.

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today, there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different energy sources, from solid fuel to electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types of stoves can perform a heating function; some models can be used to cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some are planned before the house is built, while others need to fit into an existing space. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be built from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating that are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

The ability of a brick oven to “breathe” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. The home stove provides optimal air humidity, with a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they greatly dry out the air). It turns out that a brick kiln with an efficiency rate of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of savings, than modern systems with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before starting construction, you need to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures; even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of ​​the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
4. Blower;
5. The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room over the entire height;
6. Blower door;
7. Grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Vault of the combustion part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with the nozzle is called the hailo);
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Strangler Pass;
14. Dushnik;
15. Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
18. Exhaust door;
19. Chimney hole;
20. Cover (top of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. Overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. A conventional reinforced concrete strip foundation is used. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. The asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but this is very expensive; ordinary roofing metal will do), and the top is covered with felt. The felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after this do they begin laying. The bedding itself is needed to ensure that the foundation does not absorb all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words, “so that the heat does not go into the ground.”

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, combined with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. The removal of the metal sheet is at least 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter), the solution becomes wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus transfers less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions and is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

Its efficient operation will depend on where the stove is installed. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of complete cleaning.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
• There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tiles) to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of a regular single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove brick has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish stoves or sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens this temperature does not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace out of it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way to check is to check for sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in kiln construction. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Medium-fraction quarry sand is used as sand in the cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, which will cause the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• Cement;
• Lime;
• Clays;
• Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land by first cleaning it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries when exposed to high temperatures, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you can’t lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying a chimney. It has the best strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove projects

Stove for a summer residence

The average size of a country house is about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made of refractory brick, and the entire body is built of red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and its design includes a bench. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only heats the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

• A) heated part;
• B) niche;
• B) pole;
• D) forge;
• D) shower part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on a lime mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out the samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove:

Every year more and more modern solid fuel boilers appear on the heating equipment market, while their efficiency is constantly growing, in some cases exceeding 90%. Despite this, brick stoves for the home, whose efficiency rarely reaches 70%, firmly occupy their position in the market and are not going to be put into service.

There is a simple explanation for this: a brick oven maintains an optimal ratio of temperature and air humidity in the premises. In order to be convinced of this, no equipment is required; it is enough to spend some time in such a house and the difference between ordinary water heating and stove heating will become noticeable at the level of sensations.

Types of stone stoves

Nowadays, stone stoves are laid out of brick using several basic schemes, if necessary, making various changes that do not affect the operation of the heat source. The schemes by which furnace designs are made are divided into the following types:

• with channel-type gas ducts;
• with a chamber for heating air and channel chimneys;
• bell type.

The figure below shows the structure of a brick kiln of all three types.

Dutch, Swedish and bell-type ovens

On the left side is a simple channel diagram; it is used to build stoves that do not require much space or high-quality building materials. A highly qualified mason is not needed to carry out the work; a person must be able to lay simple brick walls with a bandage and that is enough. The so-called Dutch oven, which is the basis of this scheme, in addition to the listed advantages, can be changed structurally and add a hob if necessary. This means that it can be adjusted to any finished building without violating the principle of operation. However, there are also disadvantages:

• Of all similar heat sources, the Dutch one has the lowest efficiency - up to 40%.
• Dutch brick stoves operate in a slow burning mode, so they cannot be heated with light fuels and small wood.
• After extinguishing, be sure to close the valve, otherwise, due to the channel design, the stone stove will quickly dry out.
• A coil for heating water for domestic hot water cannot be built into the chimney tract; by blocking the cross-section of the chimney, it will disrupt the operation of the circuit and cause a decrease in the already low efficiency.

Channel brick heating stoves of various configurations are shown in the following photo.

Design options

The Swedish stove, which is shown in the middle of the first diagram, has a more advanced design than the Dutch one and allows for an efficiency of up to 60%. An efficient combustion method and intensive heat exchange occur thanks to the built-in oven, which serves not so much as an oven for baking, but rather as a room air heater. In this stove for a brick home, combustion products, before entering the system of vertical channels, go around the metal oven cabinet, instantly heating it in the very first minutes after kindling.

The mentioned vertical flue ducts occupy the space from the floor itself to the top of the stove, intensively removing thermal energy from the flue gases. The Swedish heating stove has many advantages:

• The design allows you to install a heat exchanger coil on the side of the oven, which heats water for household needs in the house. At the same time, a storage tank for heated water can be additionally installed in the drying niche, which will allow maintaining its temperature.
• Afterburning of combustion products occurs at the beginning of the flue that goes around the oven, and they enter the vertical shafts at a temperature not exceeding 800 ºС. Thanks to this, channels and a brick chimney can be made using cement-sand mortar from simple red brick.
• It is possible, without reducing the efficiency of heat exchange in the stove, to direct part of the flue gases to warm up the stove bench; for this, horizontal flue ducts are installed under it.
• There is a hob for cooking, while the design of brick ovens provides 2 operating modes (winter / summer). The transition is carried out using valves, which in summer direct combustion products along the shortest path into the chimney.
• You can burn any type of solid fuel, including straw and reeds.

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted the strict requirements for the quality of the materials used and building mixtures based on clay. In addition, such construction is beyond the power of a beginner; the laying of heating stoves of this type is carried out by specialists - stove makers. You can see in the photo what different “Swedish women” look like in appearance.

The first figure also shows the operating principle of a bell-type furnace. Despite the apparent simplicity of the product, the construction of furnaces of this kind is a very complex process. The upper vault of the building experiences heavy loads, so only an experienced specialist can perform it. In addition, in this type of heat source it is practically impossible to install a water heating circuit for domestic hot water. Despite the high efficiency that a bell-type stove for a brick house can achieve, they are extremely rare due to the stated reasons.

Operation of furnaces in winter and summer

The organization of operation of heating and cooking stoves in two modes (winter / summer) deserves special attention. Switching modes is available in all duct-type stoves, as well as in Swedish stoves. How to implement this in practice is shown in the diagram.

How should a stove work in winter and summer?

There are 2 ways to organize dual-mode operation:

• traditional, with one chimney and two dampers;
• with two chimneys and one damper.

In the first option, in winter, the valve blocks the direct flow of combustion products, forcing them to move through all channels and give off heat to heat a private house. In summer, the channels are closed with a second valve, and the direct path to the exit is open. While saving labor costs and building materials, this scheme is characterized by the danger of incineration. The effect can occur if both dampers are accidentally closed. Well, it’s worth noting that in summer mode, the top and sides of the building still heat up, transferring excess heat to the rooms in the middle of the summer heat.

The second option, which has no drawbacks, is the design of brick stoves according to the two-chimney scheme on the right. Whatever position the damper is in, the path for combustion products is always open and draft is present in the pipes. In summer, gases will follow the path of least resistance, and not into the channel system; in winter, with the valve closed, this path will be closed for them and combustion products will go into the second pipe. That is why such products are absolutely safe, although they require somewhat higher construction costs.

Note. Swedish brick stoves made according to the second scheme can be smoothly adjusted using a valve, reducing or increasing the burning intensity.

The second disadvantage of this method is the installation of additional cleaning on each chimney.

Russian stove

This brick stove is a real achievement of structural mechanics and heating engineering, since the efficiency of burning solid fuel in it reaches 70-75%. The design of the heat source has remained unchanged for centuries and is at the same time the most complex to implement. The operating diagram of the canonical Russian stove is given below.

Structural diagram

Russian brick heating stoves for a home during construction are reminiscent of the construction of a building, since their corners must be laid out according to the same rules using a plumb line, level and other tools. The diagram below shows the sequential laying of furnaces at key points, but the detailed ordering is quite complex and requires separate study.

Layout diagram of a Russian stove

The main advantages of heating systems, in addition to high efficiency, are high heat capacity, the presence of a full-fledged stove bed (bed) and the ability to prepare original Russian dishes that cannot be prepared in any other way. The requirements for the quality of building materials here are not as high as in the construction of “Swedish” houses, but the qualifications of the stove maker must be appropriate.

As for the shortcomings, the main one is material consumption. Small stoves require twice as much materials as an average Dutch stove, not to mention the fact that a serious foundation is required. Accordingly, the complexity of construction work will entail significant costs.

For each home, you can choose a suitable stove heating option, taking into account all factors. The listed types of stoves find their application both in small country houses and in country cottages built of wood or stone.

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal stoves and boilers, which is updated with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of stoves and the technology for constructing a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves.

• In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to it, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When operating any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode.

In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals. A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven, you can install a heat exchanger on the side to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• Dishes of our national cuisine that cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven become available for preparation.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, and besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called flood part (indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick cannot be used in this case.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be lined with at least half a brick of oven brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces.

A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

1. Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:
2. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
3. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
4. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.

High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

• To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:
• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);

Let's analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating a furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to model the furnace in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a base made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building’s foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• All that remains is to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt soaked in highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after the top layer has dried to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire placed in the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust using a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in pure heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard block sizes, the seam between them inside (on the firebox side) should be 2 mm wide, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Damp firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, a large amount of acidic condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by a yellow color of fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever version of the brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

Brick stoves are very diverse. Without them it is difficult to imagine a traditional village house or a Russian bathhouse. But they are also used in modern cottages. In addition, such products can be erected in a summer kitchen, garage, or greenhouse. What types of brick kilns are there, how they differ – we’ll look at them in more detail in this article.

How are the different types different?

The variety of brick products for heating is very large. They can run on wood, coal or other fuels. Act as a heating device only, or can also be used for cooking.

Products can be folded into a variety of shapes: round, square or complex architectural designs. In terms of size, products range from very small models to large-scale multifunctional structures.

Various stove options mainly differ in the design of the chimneys:

• Models with horizontal smoke channels.
• Products with vertical channel design.
• Counterflow chimneys.
• Bell systems.
• Combined options.

Stoves can be used only for heating, or have additional functions:

• Hobs make it possible to cook food while the stove is on. But this design requires a smaller fuel compartment. In addition, the heat capacity of this model is much lower - a lot of heat is lost through the surface of the stove, the stove cools down faster.
• The presence of an oven compartment makes the design more heat-intensive. Hot gases can only heat this compartment, or pass directly through it. In the latter case, you can use the oven only after all the wood has burned out.
• Water pipes can be built into the stove. This design allows for heating throughout the entire house.

You can combine different types of stoves, combine them with fireplaces, or pair them with a stove bench or heating panel. There are often two fuel compartments, each serving a specific purpose.

Tunnel stove options

Tunnel brick ovens can be made with vertical or horizontal smoke channels.

Horizontal smoke channels

Hot gases in this type of stove give off their heat along the way to the chimney. It is necessary to provide a cleaning door on each channel, since soot and ash settle on the horizontal surface in large quantities.

To increase the heat transfer of gases, you can also make special heat pockets. By increasing the internal area of ​​the channel, the speed of movement of hot air through them is reduced. Consequently, the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

This chimney system is not particularly popular.

Vertical smoke channels

A design with this arrangement of channels prevents the free movement of gases inside the chimney. This often leads to overheating of the first channel. In addition, in this case it is necessary to build a higher chimney than with a horizontal scheme.

But this option has serious advantages: due to the large height of the structure, it is less susceptible to air blowing. This way the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

The main difference between counterflow designs and models with vertical channels is that the hole where the gases fall has a wider cross-section. They move at a lower speed, managing to transfer more heat to the brick walls.

Combined smoke exhaust systems

Combinations of different systems are often used. This makes it possible to use all the advantages of each design and get rid of its disadvantages for individual design. There are a lot of options for this combination.

Not all designs are suitable for heating stoves. Some of them are used to construct simple fireplaces.

Bell system

Bell-type brick furnaces are based on the principle of free movement of gases under the influence of gravity. Inside the structure there is a kind of cap, where incoming gases rise upward and transfer thermal energy to the brickwork. As they cool down, they gradually descend and exit into the chimney.

This type of stove has many advantages over tunnel options:

• Even after the fuel has finished burning in the stove, there remains enough hot air under the hood, which gives off heat for a long time.
• In this design there is no need for a high chimney.
• Heat is not blown away in strong winds.
• You can build a product of any shape and size.
• This design is suitable for furnaces operating on various types of fuel.
• The efficiency of such stoves is much higher than that of other gas outlet systems.
• These models are more economical in terms of fuel consumption.
• This design produces a small amount of soot, so it does not require frequent cleaning.

Several caps can be made. Thus, the heat transfer of gases will be significantly higher. There are several types of such furnaces, but they all work on the same principle. A two-bell brick stove is a very efficient heater.

Dutch oven

The Dutch brick oven is the simplest brick oven. The great advantage of this design is that it takes up little space.

Very small models have a size of 0.5 x 0.5 m. And although quite a lot of more efficient heating products have now appeared, the Dutch have not lost their popularity.

The advantages of such a stove:

• The large surface area of ​​the structure heats up quickly and cools down slowly, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for a long time.
• The small size of this product does not require a lot of bricks. Therefore, the price of this model is quite low.
• Such a stove does not require a powerful base, since its weight is much less than that of conventional models.
• Ease of operation, maintenance and repair.
• You can build a product that will heat even a building of several floors. Two-story brick Dutch ovens can be made with your own hands.

Round brick oven - "Dutch" - device diagram

This model is applicable both for permanent use and for houses with periodic residence. It is easy to melt even after a long period of inactivity. The main disadvantage of the “Dutch” is its demandingness regarding fuel quality. Often these products are made in a round shape.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name due to their fairly widespread use in Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type; the room is heated by heat transfer from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type include:

• The ease of the device of this design;
• Light weight;
• The cost of such a model is quite budget-friendly;
• It has good heat transfer, traction and high efficiency;
• Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
• A correctly folded structure is very aesthetically pleasing.

Typically, such products are installed in the center of the room.

Long burning stoves

A long-burning brick stove has its own design features and operating principle. It allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for quite a long time. Moreover, there is no need to add fuel.

The design of such a stove requires the presence of:

• The fuel chamber is large - it is necessary to load a lot of firewood for a long time.
• Large ash compartment.
• Tightly closing combustion chamber door.
• Adjustable chimney damper.

You can build long-burning brick stoves with your own hands if you understand the principle of their operation:

• First of all, it is necessary to heat the combustion chamber to the desired temperature. At the same time, the chimney warms up and the combustion process normalizes. To do this, 4-5 kg ​​of wood is burned in rapid mode.
• To warm up the room and obtain the required amount of coal, the same amount of fuel is burned within 1-1.5 hours in normal mode.
• The final stage is to fully load the firebox with wood. It closes tightly, blocking the chimney for minimal oxygen access. The fuel will slowly smolder for 10-12 hours to maintain the required temperature in the house.

Important! If the air access is very large, then long-term combustion will not work. Also, open fire should not be allowed in the firebox.

Pyrolysis structures

A very interesting type of long-burning furnace, which has an almost waste-free operating principle, is pyrolysis models. To obtain thermal energy, they use not only traditional types of fuel - firewood, fuel briquettes, coal, but also gas that is formed during combustion. This type of stove operates using a gas generator system.

How to make a pyrolysis oven from brick? It is best to take ready-made design diagrams and drawings as a basis. Making your own calculations is quite difficult.

Coal options

Despite the widespread use of various types of solid fuel boilers, many owners of private houses prefer to install brick stoves that run on coal.

And there are explanations for this:

• When coal is burned in the combustion chamber, the temperature can rise to 1000 °C. Metal products burn out and break down over time. Refractory bricks for the stove will last much longer.
• Brickwork withstands temperature changes better.
• The stove accumulates heat well and releases it long after the coal has died out.
• To heat the room, a water heating system is not required.

Coal brick stoves have many advantages - photo

Since the combustion temperature of coal is higher than that of wood, it is more profitable to use such products for heating houses.

Even the simplest brick stove, if built correctly, can not only effectively heat a house. It will also create a special microclimate in the room, which has a beneficial effect on human health.

The choice of models is very diverse. Everyone will be able to choose a product according to their individual requirements and taking into account the specific parameters of their home. More information on this topic can be found in the video in this article: “Pyrolysis brick oven.”