Do-it-yourself rocket stove made of long-burning bricks. Do-it-yourself rocket furnace: principle of operation, drawings Do-it-yourself portable flint furnace drawings

This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still unknown to few people in our country. And for sure, only a few are interested in how to make a rocket stove with their own hands, because they do not understand the principle of its operation.

This is a relatively new word in the domestic heating environment, coming from Germany. The key to unprecedented popularity in the homeland is a simple, cheap design coupled with high efficiency and the slightest absence of signs of soot. Considering that making your own equipment is not at all difficult, we will tell you how to do it, provide drawings, recommendations from specialists, videos and photos.

Principle of operation

Oddly enough, the name “rocket stove” itself has nothing to do with space or rockets themselves. The only analogy that can remotely remind us of this is a jet of flame rising upward in mobile installations.

The design feature of the furnace is the presence of a hood into which flue gases enter and where the final combustion of the sludge occurs. Under the hood, the temperature rises to 1000 0 C within the first 2 hours, as a result of which everything burns without sediment, and the exhaust is formed only in the form of steam and carbon. In this case, gases circulate freely through the channels without forced draft, which is usually created by a chimney pipe.

This design allows the stove to be used not only for heating the room, but also for heating food or water (on the hood). If the chimney is run through a certain area of ​​the room, right up to the lounger, it will also heat up.

Among the main advantages of rocket stoves are the following:

• high efficiency - 85%;
• very fast heating of the room - 50 sq.m. in 45-60 minutes;
• absence of soot and, as a result, soot deposits - at temperatures above 1000 degrees, everything burns without a trace;
• the ability to use any solid fuel;
• minimum consumption - at the same temperature and burning duration, a rocket stove consumes 4-5 times less fuel than a conventional stove.

The simplest rocket works according to the direct combustion formula - these are mobile structures that can be easily assembled in field conditions literally from scrap materials and can also be easily dismantled.

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

If we are talking only about the first stages of self-manufacturing a rocket stove (see video), then it is still worth starting the acquaintance with the simplest design. A camp stove is presented in the form of a bent section of pipe, where the fuel chamber and ash pan are combined.

For fuel, a steel plate is welded to the bottom, at the bottom of which a hole is cut for air intake.

You can use any straight cylindrical container for manufacturing - the drawing of a rocket furnace shows how the direct combustion process occurs.

Video 1 Simple design of a portable cooking rocket stove

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

If you have 20-30 bricks on hand, you can make a simple rocket stove with your own hands in just a few minutes. Moreover, no adhesives are needed for masonry.

Lay out a vertical combustion chamber from brick, as shown in the photo. In this case, the dishes are placed on the hood in such a way as not to interfere with the movement of released gases

Do-it-yourself rocket-type brick oven:

For such a design to work well, a warm pipe is needed. This term among stove makers means a preliminary run of wood chips and paper so that the pipe warms up. There will be stagnation of gas in a cold pipe, which will make heating difficult. And if the pipe is warm, then when the wood is ignited, a powerful draft appears in the channel.

For reference. The above simplest designs made from a gas cylinder or pipe have a significant drawback - vertical loading of firewood. Each time you have to move the wood into the chamber when it burns out and only then add it. Stationary coal-fired or long-burning rocket stoves already have a vertical stack, which simplifies operation many times over.

Long-burning rocket stove

Photo 6 Design of a stationary rocket furnace

DIY rocket jet stove diagram

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions and structural elements.

How the rocket works:

As can be seen from the drawing, the diameter of the cap (D), which covers the top of the pipe, and its cross section (S) are taken as the basis.

Based on these indicators, the dimensions of the rocket furnace are calculated:

• the height of the drum is 2 of its diameter;
• the height of the clay coating is 2/3 of the height;
• coating thickness - 1/3 of the diameter;
• pipe cross-sectional area - 7% of its cross-section;
• blower area - 1/2 of the pipe section;
• the flame tube horizontally and vertically must be the same;
• ash pan volume - 4-6% of the drum height;
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the external chimney is the double cross-section of the pipe.
• the thickness of the insulating layer (adobe cushion) under the external chimney is 60 mm;
• the thickness of the coating of the stove bench is 1/4 of the diameter of the drum;
• external pipe height - 4000 mm;
• The length of the flue directly depends on the diameter of the drum. If for its manufacture we took a metal container with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a volume of 200 liters, then the length of the flue pipe will be at least 6 meters. If the diameter is half as large, then the bed should be made up to 4 meters.

If you are making a stationary rocket stove with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to the lining of the top of the pipe. This is necessary to isolate the roaster from the walls of the oven to prevent the walls from overheating. Fireclay bricks can be used for lining.

Photos of examples of original performance

It is noteworthy that not only the walls need protection, but also the lining itself. In order to protect it from flammable gases, you can create a metal sheathing and fill it with river sand. For this purpose, you can use any available metal object - a barrel, a bucket, galvanized steel.

Sand is poured into the bucket layer by layer, with each layer being generously watered for proper compaction. When you have filled the protection to the top with sand, leave it to dry for 7-10 days.

The lining of the brazier is done much faster - fireclay bricks are laid on the clay mortar, and the space between the latter and the wall will also have to be filled with sand in layers - with water and time for drying.

Pipe lining diagram

All further work on the installation of a jet-type rocket furnace continues only after not only the lining, but also the clay protection, which is applied over the top cut, has dried.

Before making a stationary structure, practice on a traveling sample. After the first experience it will become clear even if you have not read the books on rocket stoves.

Disadvantages of the heating device

1. This device is often used to heat food or water - indeed, a huge amount of heat, a hot cap, why not use this idea? However, connecting a water circuit in order to heat the entire house and not a room is impossible. The design is so simple that any intervention, including a coil, will disrupt the progress of work.
2. Surprisingly, such a lightweight mobile heating device is completely unsuitable for either a bathhouse or a garage. Even with its high efficiency, a camping unit will not heat the air in the steam room to the required minimum. And in a garage or warehouse it is not recommended to use devices with direct open fire.

In this article we will give an example of a camp installation, which does not require any masonry or finishing materials.

Necessary materials:

• 2 buckets;
• stainless steel pipe;
• river sand or crushed stone for lining.

Step 1. Cut a hole in the side of one of the buckets along the diameter of the pipe at a height of 5 cm from the bottom. The height should be enough to pour crushed stone or sand into the bucket.

Step 2. Divide the pipe into 2 parts - a short loading section and a pancake elbow-chimney.

Step 2. Insert the pipe into the hole in the bucket.

Step 4. By analogy with step 1, cut a hole in the bucket, but directly in the bottom. The diameter of the hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Insert the pipe.

Step 5. Pour sand or gravel into a bucket, which will act as a heat accumulator for the fire tube.

Step 6. Making legs or stand. For this purpose, ordinary reinforcement is suitable, which is bent under pressure and the base is cut out.

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

This is a complicated, improved version, for the manufacture of which you will need an already used gas cylinder and a 4 mm rectangular pipe.

The scheme remains exactly the same with the only exception that flammable gases are discharged from the side through the hole, and not from above, as happens with field samples.

If there is a need to cook food or heat it, the upper part of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a flat plate is welded on top.

Video 2 Making a rocket oven with your own hands

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

1. the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;

   The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom

2. Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is, a gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (fuel firebox);

   Dimensions in mm

3. the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
4. To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

1. The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay reinforcement mesh or metal rods in it;

   The platform will harden in about two days

2. The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
3. The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;

   Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open

4. Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;

   The work requires accuracy

5. An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
6. The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
7. The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. When doing this, they constantly use a building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;

   The height of the pipe is determined in advance

8. The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of ​​the vertical channel is sealed with raw clay, the function of which is to prevent the thermal insulation material from spilling onto the floor;
9. From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
10. To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
11. They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
12. A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
13. A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;

    At this stage the oven looks almost finished

14. A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
15. The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
16. Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.

    The oven functions as a whole system

Jet device with a warm bed

One of the variations of such heating units is a rocket stove with a sleeping place. It is based on the same principle of pyrolysis. The difference lies in the design of the heat exchanger itself. The long channels of the device are made of non-flammable materials and are interconnected. This structure is placed under the plane of the bed.

The ledge itself is a surface made of clay, stone or brick, inside which hot air circulates through the channels of the heat exchanger. During operation of the jet stove, the gas obtained by pyrolysis moves through the pipes under the stove bench, gives off heat and is discharged through a chimney located outside. Its height reaches 3000-3500 mm.

The stove structure with a firebox is located near one of the edges of the stove bench. Often there is also a cooking surface, with which a homemade rocket stove can also be used for cooking.

The stone or clay surface of the couch is covered with a wooden flooring or a mat made of bamboo or straw. This is necessary for the comfort of the user, because the bed serves as a sleeping place at night, and as a seat during the day. The peoples of Asia traditionally used the rocket stove for eating, equipping the stove with a special low table.

It is important to note that this type of furnace device uses fuel resources quite economically. An armful of medium-thick dry branches is enough to heat the unit.

Due to the fact that a brick rocket stove retains heat for a long time, by heating it once in the evening, you can enjoy the created comfort all night long, without worrying about adding fuel again.

The easiest way is to make a small portable stove with your own hands - the Robinson rocket, whose drawing is presented below. You will need cutting profile pipes, metal for legs and stands, as well as welding skills. Moreover, compliance with the exact dimensions indicated in the drawing is not necessary. You can take pipes of a different section, but you just need to reduce or increase them proportionally so that the parts fit together.

Drawing of an improved Robinson camping stove with nozzles made of a profile pipe, cut lengthwise into 2 parts

Note

Please note that the drawing shows a design improved by our expert. As befits a rocket, improvised nozzles are attached to it, which receives secondary air for afterburning, which enters the pipe through a series of holes

Due to this modernization, the combustion intensity increases noticeably. For more information about the operation of a compact wood stove, watch the video:

The most common versions of large rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. You must understand that these ready-made elements are used as an outer hood, and the internal parts of the stove must be made from pipes of smaller diameter or laid out from fireclay bricks. Moreover, from a cylinder you can make both a stationary heater with a small bench, and a unit that can be moved.

It should be noted right away that calculating the thermal power of a rocket-type furnace is quite difficult, since there is no single methodology for this. It’s easier to rely on ready-made drawings of already working samples and assemble according to them. You just need to compare the dimensions of the future stove with the dimensions of the heated room. For example, to heat a small room, the size of a cylinder is enough; in other cases, it is better to take a large barrel. The selection of internal parts for them is shown in the diagram:

Stove rocket from a cylinder

In addition to the gas cylinder itself, to assemble the stove you will need:

• profile pipe 150 x 150 mm for the firebox and loading hopper;
• steel pipes with a diameter of 70 and 150 mm will go to the internal vertical channel;
• the same with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
• insulation (basalt fiber with a density of at least 100 kg/m³);
• sheet metal 3 mm thick.

For a master skilled in welding, this work will not be particularly difficult. The top of the cylinder should be cut off along the seam, after first unscrewing the valve and filling it to the top with water. Openings are cut on both sides for installing a firebox and inserting a chimney. A profile pipe is inserted and connected to a vertical channel, which is discharged through the bottom of the cylinder. Further work on the manufacture of the rocket furnace is carried out in accordance with the drawing:

At the end, the upper part must be welded into place, then carefully check all seams for permeability so that air does not flow uncontrollably into the oven. After this, you can attach a chimney with a water jacket (if available) and begin testing.

Important. To create sufficient draft, the top of the pipe must be raised above the level of the firebox to a height of 4 m

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

This stove option will require the purchase of fireclay bricks; ordinary ceramic bricks will not work for a rocket stove. The masonry is done using fireclay clay mortar, this is also commercially available. First you need to dig a hole, compact the bottom and pour a foundation measuring 1200 x 400 mm and 100 mm high, as shown in the photo:

After hardening, the foundation is covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard and the combustion chamber, a bunker for loading firewood and a vertical channel are laid. A door is installed at the end of the combustion chamber to clean the ash pan. When the clay has dried, the pit is filled up, and a pre-selected pipe or small barrel with a diameter of 450 mm is placed on the vertical channel. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe walls is filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, basalt wool.

At the last stage, a cap made of a large metal barrel with a diameter of 600 mm is put on the structure. First, a cutout is made in its upper part and a pipe is installed to connect the chimney. When the barrel turns over, he will be at the bottom. Then it’s a matter of technology; you can take the chimney directly outside or build another bench with smoke circulation. For this purpose, ordinary ceramic bricks and clay-sand mortar will do. The order of the brickwork of a rocket stove with a small bench is shown in detail in the video:

Making a rocket oven

The easiest way to make a light camp stove, shown in the drawing, is to find the following materials in the household:

• round steel pipe with a diameter of 133-150 mm and a length of 0.5 m;
• profile pipe 14 x 20 cm, length 0.4 m;
• sheet of metal 2-3 mm thick for grates;
• rod Ø8-10 mm for legs;
• scraps of iron for the stand.

A vertical round pipe is welded to the profile at an angle of 45°, then eyes for the legs are attached to the body (they should be easily removed). A grate is placed inside the inclined firebox, and a lid is attached to the outside. To make it easier to clean the ash below, it is advisable to install a second door.

Advice. Be sure to weld a stand to the upper edge of the fire channel - gases must penetrate between the bottom of the dish and the body, otherwise “rocket” thrust will not occur.

Drawing of an improved version of the portable stove

The design of the furnace can be improved by organizing the supply of secondary air inside the flame tube. Modernization will increase the efficiency and duration of firewood burning. Drill holes on both sides on both sides, covering them with rocket “nozzles” according to the presented drawing. How this stove functions is demonstrated in the video:

From a gas cylinder

The following materials will be used to make a do-it-yourself rocket stove:

• round pipes with transverse dimensions of 70 and 150 mm; with a wall thickness of 4 mm;
• square corrugated pipe 150-200 mm in diameter;
• chimney pipe Ø10-15 cm;
• low-carbon steel (grade St20) sheet;
• dense basalt wool (80-120 kg/m3) or bulk fire-resistant materials, for example, vermiculite or perlite gravel.

To begin, cut the rolled metal into blanks in accordance with the drawing. Then you need to saw off the lid of the propane tank, after unscrewing the valve and filling the tank to the top with water. The tool is an ordinary grinder with a metal circle.

Further assembly technology is as follows:

1. Cut the corrugated pipe lengthwise, 35 mm from the edge. One part will be used to make an ash pan, the second - a blower.
2. Join the firebox and flame tube at an angle of 90°, making appropriate cuts. Cut an opening on top of the combustion chamber where the loading hopper will be welded.
3. Weld the riser with the firebox, then put on the casing from a 150 mm pipe, making a cutout at the bottom to fit the width of the combustion chamber.
4. Install and scald the bunker for storing firewood. Secure the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
5. Place perlite sand between the walls of the afterburner and the shell.
6. Make a side opening in the cylinder to insert the finished structure. It is better to make the lid removable.
7. Perform final assembly and weld the chimney pipe.

The master will tell you in detail about the manufacture of a rocket stove from a cylinder in the video:

Made of brick

The simplest rocket stove for cooking can be built from bricks without using mortar, as shown in the diagram with the order. Such a structure can be easily disassembled and moved if necessary.

The rocket stove with a stove bench must be placed on a foundation made of concrete or rubble stone. Material – ceramic or refractory brick, sand-clay or fireclay mortar, respectively. The finished base is covered with roofing felt for the purpose of waterproofing, then a continuous first row of bricks is laid. The further work order looks like this:

1. Lay out the firebox, placing the bricks on edge. In the same way, cover the chamber, leaving an opening for loading firewood and a riser.
2. Build an afterburner pipe from 9 rows of stones installed “on edge” with ligation.
3. Place a pipe or tin buckets on the riser, fill the resulting cavity with insulation or regular sand.
4. Place the barrel upside down, with the flue gas pipe coming out from the bottom.
5. Build a brick bed from 3-4 horizontal channels.
6. Coat the barrel and bench with clay mortar.

Important. The construction is carried out in compliance with the rules of stove masonry, described

The length of the smoke channels inside the stove is limited by the draft in the rocket stove and the external chimney. It is better to keep the total length of the flue pipes within 4 m. To prevent the heater from smoking back into the room, raise the top of the chimney to a height of 5 m, counting from the grate. How to build a brick stove - a rocket without a barrel, watch the video:

Design and principle of operation

Rocket furnaces have virtually nothing to do with the design of rocket engines or jet turbines. On the contrary, they are extremely simple in design, in contrast to the above devices. The similarity is noticeable only in the quietly noisy flame and high combustion temperature - all this is observed after the stove reaches operating mode.

Let's consider the design of rocket furnaces - they consist of the following elements:

• Firebox – a vertical or horizontal section in which firewood is burned;
• Combustion chamber (also known as a flame tube, riser) – here the process of fuel combustion occurs, releasing a large amount of heat;
• Blower - necessary for the correct operation of the stove and the start of the combustion process of pyrolysis gases;
• Thermal insulation – envelops the vertical part, forming a drum together with the body;
• Bed – used for its intended purpose;
• Chimney - removes combustion products into the atmosphere, creating draft;
• Dish rack – ensures unhindered heat escape.

Depending on the type of rocket stove, certain elements may be missing.

Rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes (fuel bunkers) and blowers are the most efficient and convenient - large volumes of fuel are placed here, which ensures long-term combustion.

The most important part of the rocket furnace is the vertical drum. It is here that the highest temperature is observed, as flames burst out here

In order for it to start working, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Without this, the combustion process will be weak. To warm up, paper, cardboard, small wood chips or thin branches are placed in the firebox. As soon as the system warms up, the flame in the drum will begin to burn out with a humming sound, which is a sign that it has reached operating mode.

A rocket (jet) stove without a ash burns wood directly. It is simpler, but less effective. The model with a blower supplies secondary air to the base of the riser, which causes intense combustion of flammable pyrolysis gases. This increases the efficiency of the unit.

The fireboxes in rocket stoves are located horizontally or vertically (at any angle). Horizontal fireboxes are not very convenient, since the firewood in them has to be moved to the combustion zone manually, independently. Vertical combustion chambers are more convenient - we load fuel into them and go about our business. As the logs burn, they will fall down, independently moving towards the combustion zone.

Features of operating a rocket furnace

1. Before loading the main fuel, the stove must be warmed up. This applies more to large and multifunctional rocket stoves. In them, without preheating, thermal energy will be wasted.
2. To accelerate the furnace, dry paper, wood shavings, and straw are placed in an open ash pit. Sufficient heating of the furnace can be determined by the hum in the furnace, which subsequently subsides. Then the main fuel is placed into the heated rocket stove, which is ignited by the booster fuel.
3. At the beginning of combustion of the main fuel, the ash door is opened completely. After a while, when the stove hum appears, the vent is covered until the hum is replaced by a whisper. In the future, to assess the state of combustion of the stove, you also need to focus on the “stove sound”, opening the ash door slightly when it subsides and closing it when a hum occurs.
4. The larger the jet stove, the smaller the opening for fresh air intake is needed. It is advisable to use a separate blower in such a furnace.
5. The power of the furnace can be adjusted only by the volume of fuel added, but not by the air supply.
6. When making a large rocket stove yourself, its bunker should be made with a tight-fitting lid, without gaps or cracks. Otherwise, stable operating conditions of the furnace will not be ensured, which can result in the consumption of excess fuel energy.
7. Contrary to popular belief, a rocket stove for a sauna is not suitable for installation, since the stove does not emit infrared radiation in sufficient quantities, which is necessary for heating the walls and transmitting convection into the air masses in a sauna. A rocket stove for a bathhouse, theoretically, can only be installed using the Shirokov-Khramtsov stove type, the characteristics of which are given below.
8. A rocket stove for a garage is a mobile version of a stove design that can quickly heat a room. The main element is a heating tank made of pipe.

Fuel types

With proper assembly and operation, a rocket stove can be fired with any type of solid fuel, wood and its waste. For example, branches, leaves, firewood, coal, corn stalks, cones, pieces of chipboard, pieces of furniture. Fuel can be loaded into the stove in either dry or raw form. This is especially true for its operation in natural conditions, where it is not always possible to find dry raw materials.

Types of stoves for different operating conditions

A rocket stove with a water circuit, brick or metal, can replace a boiler. The heat exchanger here is arranged in the upper part of the flame tube in the form of a surrounding water jacket. There are jumpers inside the jacket for more efficient heat transfer to the coolant. The design is extremely simple; it can heat households up to several tens of square meters.

A rocket stove for the garage can be made from an old pot-bellied gas cylinder or barrel. To do this, two holes are made in the selected container - one in the top lid and the other on the side surface. An L-shaped pipe is inserted inside. Having a little experience working with a welding machine, all work will take you a maximum of half an hour.

You can also make a rocket-type furnace described above from sections of square and metal pipe according to the drawing given.

Also suitable for heating a garage is the heating rocket stove “Ognivo – Khozyain”. This is a store-bought model made from aluminum corrugated pipe and ordinary sheet iron. It works in approximately the same way and allows you to warm a garage of up to 30 square meters. m.

There are no drawings of it in the public domain yet, so you can try to assemble the “Ognivo” stove with your own hands based on its photograph. You can also buy it on the manufacturer's website.

We have already said that to heat large households you will need a long-burning rocket stove with a water circuit. A small one-room household can be heated with a simpler stove and a stove bench - this way you will save space on furniture. It consists of the following nodes:

• Firebox with vertical loading - logs are placed in it;
• Afterburner is a horizontal section in front of the riser (flame tube), where pyrolysis combustion occurs;
• A riser with a hob is a vertical section with a metal body that transfers heat into the room;
• Horizontal channels - they heat the stove bench, after which the combustion products are sent into the chimney.

A rocket stove for heating a one-room house is coated with clay to create a flat and comfortable bed - here you can lay a mattress or a small blanket.

For camping use, the simplest rocket-type stoves made of metal pipes are used. They are compact, easy to light and extinguish, cool quickly and allow you to quickly prepare lunch in the open air. The main thing is not to overdo it with the amount of fuel loaded, so as not to burn the food with a high-temperature flame.

Operating principle

Despite the simplicity of the design, the rocket stove involves the use of two operating principles at once:

• free flow of wood gases through channels;
• pyrolysis is the afterburning of gases that are released during combustion.

The simplest rocket stove uses only the first principle of operation, since there are not enough conditions for pyrolysis.

A neat, homemade rocket stove

First, let's look at the options for jet stoves used for cooking. In such a device, a short pipe located horizontally is used as a firebox, and then it is directed upward. This is the simplest design.

Fuel is placed into the rocket stove directly into the pipe, after which it is ignited. As a result, a flow of hot gases is formed, which is oriented to go out, and therefore tends to the vertical section.

At the end of the pipe there is a container used for water or food. There is a gap between it and the pipe so that combustion products can escape.

Many people are interested in why such a stove is called a rocket. The design has a nozzle turned upward, from which, when the device is operating, a flame bursts out. Hence the name.

Flames escaping from a rocket stove

Of course, such a unit will not be able to warm up the room. The rocket furnace must be supplemented with a heat exchanger, as well as channels for removing combustion products. To ensure high temperatures, the vertical part of the pipe is insulated with fire-resistant material.

The nozzle can be covered with a cap. This is necessary for high-quality heat selection. A channel is created at the bottom of the horizontal section of the pipe to supply secondary air.

The modern version involves a slightly different design. Such a reactive furnace involves the afterburning of pyrolysis gases, which is possible due to the supply of secondary air. In addition, combustion products collect under the top of the hood, which increases the pressure to excess. Over time, heat is transferred outward through the walls of the pipe, forcing the gases to cool and flow downward. Hot air awaits them there, so they have to go into the space between the walls of the hood and the pipe, going into the chimney channel.

Application of a rocket stove with a hood on the site

Due to pyrolysis processes, efficiency increases significantly. And thanks to the flow of gases, a self-regulating system is organized.

Jet furnaces, product drawings

Rocket stoves are divided into portable and stationary. The first devices are smaller in size and have a simpler design. She reminds inverted letter "G". Fuel is placed in the lower crossbar. Thanks to the vertical shape of the main part, natural traction occurs.

Photo 1. Drawing and finished version of a metal rocket stove with dimensions, left and top view.

As the temperature rises, the device works more and more efficiently. Its power is enough to quickly heat water for cooking. for several people. To prevent the wood from burning out too quickly, you need to regulate the draft in the stove. To do this, close or close the fuel door completely.

Portable jet stoves mass-produced. Most popular models "Robinson" and "Ognivo". Due to the simplicity of the design, you can make them yourself.

Stationary devices are somewhat more complicated. The air ducts in the hood are made in such a way that the heated air first rises. Transferring heat to the inner walls, it gradually falls down. Then it passes into the chimney located at the bottom.

Photo 2. Drawing of a rocket stove made of brick and a metal barrel. Arrows indicate parts of the device.

This stove is quite economical to use, since it burns not only wood, but also pyrolysis gases. The chimney duct of the stove is sometimes not taken out of the room immediately, but is carried out inside a stove bench made of brick and/or clay. This bed warms the room to a comfortable temperature. The structure itself is made from large diameter pipes, barrels or bricks.

Important! The device needs to be preheated before firing. First, light paper, newspaper or something else that ignites quickly.

And only the firewood is placed in the warmed-up firebox.

Long-burning rocket stove made of brick

Since brick accumulates heat, such devices are well suited for heating rooms. Taking into account the duration of combustion, one fill of fuel is enough for 6-8 hours maintaining a comfortable temperature.

Sometimes the oven is made entirely of brick. The only fittings (doors) you will need are steel or cast iron. In other cases, the outer part of the stove hood is made from a barrel or wide pipe.

Attention! A brick oven requires a separate foundation, separate from the one being built for the building itself. It is advisable to plan its location before construction begins.

A device made of a pipe with a water circuit, diagram

The furnace structure is welded from iron pipes of different diameters.

If you plan to heat a small room, the stove hood can be made from waste gas cylinder.

In a larger house, it would be suitable for these purposes. iron barrel.

If you install a water circuit on the stove chimney, you can get a long-burning boiler that will heat the room well.

The water circuit is usually made from gas cylinders.

"Robinson"

This is a simple and reliable camp stove. She's quite capable quickly (in 10 minutes) boil a liter water. In this case, there is no need to add firewood.

The design was developed back in the last century, but due to its advantages it is still used today. "Robinson" is mass-produced, but It is not difficult to assemble it yourself.

"Flint"

This oven is similar to the previous version. But the combustion chamber in it shorter and at a more obtuse angle in relation to the chimney. This stove is shaped like an inverted letter “G”.

Step-by-step instruction

Here is an approximate procedure that should be followed when making this stove:

Making a firebox

The firebox is welded using steel pipe or sheets. The firebox lid must close tightly. It should be made of a steel sheet, around the perimeter of which a strip of basalt cardboard is fixed with screws or rivets. For a tighter closure, the lid can be equipped with a screw clamping mechanism.

This is what the firebox and ash pan look like in a simple rocket stove

The ash chamber (indicated in the diagram as Primary Ash Pit) is separated from the main part of the firebox by a grate welded from a rod with a diameter of 8–10 mm. The grille should be installed on corner shelves that are welded to the inner walls.

The door of the ash chamber must also be airtight. It is made from a steel sheet, to which a steel strip is welded in two rows along the entire perimeter. An asbestos cord or basalt cardboard is placed in the groove between these strips.

All that remains is to weld the fire tube to the firebox.

Primary chimney

1. A 90-degree bend and a small section of pipe must be welded to the pipe that serves as the primary chimney, after which this L-shaped structure is placed inside a barrel or cylinder, that is, the future drum.
2. The outlet with a piece of pipe welded to it should be brought out into one of the openings in the lower part of the drum so that the primary chimney is located strictly in the center. Let us remind you that the upper cut of the pipe must be located at least 70 mm below the upper edge of the barrel (cylinder).
3. After centering the primary chimney, its horizontal tail, which was brought out into the opening in the drum, is welded to its edges with a continuous seam along the entire perimeter.
4. After this, the shank of the primary chimney is welded to the flame pipe, and a tire is welded to the drum on top.
5. A short piece of pipe should be welded to the second opening in the drum, which will act as a secondary ash pan. It needs a cleaning window. Along its edges, you need to butt-weld the studs to which the lid will be screwed (remember that we decided not to install the door in this place, since we have to open it quite rarely).
6. A strip of basalt cardboard should be secured along the perimeter of the lid with screws or rivets.

Chimney installation

We weld the horizontal part of the chimney to the outlet of the secondary ash pan, on which the stove bench will subsequently be installed. If the flue is supposed to be made of metal corrugation, then first a short pipe must be welded to the ash pan, and then the corrugation must be attached to it using a clamp.

At the final stage, an external chimney is attached to the horizontal flue.

Furnace lining

The metal part of the stove is ready; now it needs to be properly plastered with heat-insulating and heat-accumulating compounds.

The lining of the combustion part (up to the primary chimney) should be done with a mixture of stove clay and broken fireclay bricks, taken in a 1:1 ratio.

Primary chimney lining

The materials used for lining the primary chimney - light fireclay bricks or river sand - are porous, so when open they will quickly become saturated with soot and lose their thermal insulation properties. To prevent this, the lining on the primary chimney is protected with a thin-walled steel casing, and the ends are coated with oven clay.

In accordance with the square-cube law, the ratio of the volume and surface area of ​​the drum depends on its diameter, therefore the lining of the primary chimney is made differently depending on the size of the furnace. Three options are shown in the figure.

Primary chimney lining options

If the lining is made with fireclay bricks, the cavities between its fragments must be filled with construction sand. If river sand rich in alumina is used, you have to resort to more complex technology:

1. The sand is cleared of large debris (careful preparation is not required).
2. A thin layer is poured into the casing, compacted and wetted so that a crust forms.
3. Subsequent layers are poured in the same way. There should be from 5 to 7 in total.
4. The sand lining is dried for one week, then the top is covered with oven clay and the manufacture of the oven continues.

The last step is to coat all parts of the stove with adobe. It is prepared from the following ingredients:

• clay;
• straw (14–16 kg per 1 m3 of clay);
• sand (in small quantities);
• water.

The straw to clay ratio shown is approximate. In some types of clay, more straw can be added, in others, on the contrary, its amount must be reduced.

Construction of a brick rocket stove

A heater has similar technical properties as a metal structure, however, the construction of a brick rocket stove is a labor-intensive process that requires additional financial costs and time.

The cap of a stone rocket stove should be made from a barrel. For safety and ease of use, the stove structure, except for the hood, must be lowered down by digging a hole under the floor. The bottom must be compacted and filled with concrete mortar, in simple words - to make a foundation. The thickness of the concrete coating must be more than 10.0 cm. In order for the foundation to become strong and the brick laying process can begin on it, you will need to wait about 3 days until the mortar is completely hardened. After this period, you can begin to build the walls of the rocket furnace.

For masonry, only fire-resistant building materials can be used, namely:

• Fireproof clay mortar;
• Fire bricks.

After installation is completed, you should wait until the solution hardens and the structure becomes complete, strong and reliable. An iron barrel without a bottom is installed on top of the fire channel, and the gap between the barrel and the brick is filled with insulation. When processing the end, you must use the same fire-resistant clay mortar. The largest barrel is placed on top, and a chimney pipe is attached to its lower part.

How to make it yourself

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks at a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick stoves closer to the front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. Moreover, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for laying heating devices made of bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

• place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
• remove the tool and shake well;
• check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which the air from the hob will fall down to move to the stove bench
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After completing the masonry work, the homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the norm of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

Types of rocket stoves

In this section we will look at the most common types of rocket stoves used in field and stationary conditions.

Simple metal stoves

The simplest wood-burning jet stove is made from an L-shaped piece of large-diameter metal pipe. The horizontal part is short, it represents the firebox. The combustion chamber is located in the vertical part of the pipe, where wood actively burns. A small metal plate is often welded into the horizontal section, forming a blower. After warming up, the rocket furnace enters operating mode, and a flame bursts out of its vertical section (flame tube).

Such rocket stoves are used for cooking food in camping or outdoor conditions - due to their small area, they produce little heat, and the vast majority of the thermal energy is lost through the fire tube. Kettles, frying pans and pots are placed on this pipe so that the raging flame ensures their heating. To maintain traction, there are stands in the upper part of the pipe, on which the dishes are placed - combustion products can freely come out.

To make a metal rocket furnace made from an L-shaped piece of pipe more efficient, it is equipped with a metal casing made from an old barrel. A blower can be seen at the bottom of the barrel, and a fire tube peeks out from the top. If necessary, the internal volume is filled with insulation, for example, ash - it does not burn and retains heat well.

Metal rocket stoves with vertical fireboxes located at an angle to the flame tube are the most convenient. Often the combustion openings are closed with lids; in this case, air is taken through the ash pan. Sometimes the firebox is made larger in diameter than the flame tube to ensure long-lasting combustion.

Simple brick ovens

A small-sized brick rocket stove is another simplest option for building a rocket stove with your own hands. Its assembly does not require cement mortar; it is enough to stack the bricks on top of each other to get a convenient brick outdoor unit for cooking. In the section on self-assembly of rocket stoves, we will invite you to familiarize yourself with the simplest procedure for self-assembly.

A rocket stove, made with your own hands from brick, can be used to heat households. In this case, a simple arrangement is not enough - you will have to build a stationary version using a special cement mortar. There are many procedures for this, you just have to choose the appropriate option. By the way, some versions of such furnaces include a water circuit.

Advantage of brick rocket kilns:

• Simple design;
• Long-term heat retention;
• The ability to create a comfortable warm bed.

Some models are made combined, using both steel and bricks.

Sophisticated rocket stoves

A jet stove for heating households or for a bath is characterized by increased complexity. The main link here is still the riser (fire tube), enclosed in a metal casing. Its upper part can be used for cooking, forming a kind of cooking surface. The firebox is made large to accommodate an increased amount of solid fuel. The starting materials are metal, bricks and clay.

Based on clay coating, streamlined rocket furnaces of irregular shape are made, which is well perceived by human vision.

There are projects for wood-burning rocket stoves that include additional modules. Their construction schemes include small boilers for preparing hot water, hobs, water jackets and even small ovens. Such stoves will help heat households and create comfortable living conditions for people.

A rocket boiler with a water jacket, created on the basis of a wood-burning stove, will help warm up a multi-room building. It is equipped with a water circuit for heating the coolant. Additional convenience is created by samples with beds - these beds are created on the basis of thermal channels between the flame and chimney pipes.

Assembling a rocket stove with your own hands

The easiest way to assemble a camping and garden version of a jet stove. To do this, you do not have to purchase masonry materials and prepare adobe for coating.

Several metal buckets, a stainless steel pipe for the fire channel and small crushed stone for backfilling - that’s all you need to make a rocket stove with your own hands.

The first step is to cut a hole in the bottom bucket with tin snips to allow the flame tube to pass through. It must be done at such a height that there is room under the pipe for crushed stone backfill.

The second step is to install a flame pipe in the lower bucket, consisting of two elbows: a short loading one and a long one for the exit of gases.

The third step is to cut a hole in the bottom of the top bucket that fits over the bottom one. The head of the frying tube is inserted into it so that its cut is 3-4 cm above the bottom.

The fourth is pouring small crushed stone into the lower bucket to half its height. It is needed to accumulate heat and thermally insulate the heat channel.

The last step is making a coaster for dishes. It can be welded from round reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

A more complex, but at the same time durable, powerful and aesthetic version of the rocket stove requires the use of a gas cylinder and a thick steel pipe of rectangular cross-section.

The assembly diagram does not change. The gas outlet here is organized at the side, not at the top. To prepare food, the top part with the valve is cut off from the cylinder and a flat round plate 4-5 mm thick is welded in its place.

How does a rocket stove work?

Although the design of the “rocket” is simple, it contains two principles of fuel combustion, borrowed from other solid fuel stoves:

1. Natural circulation of hot gases and smoke through the stove channels is a standard solution, as in a potbelly stove;
2. Afterburning of unburned gases (pyrolysis) with limited access of oxygen to the combustion chamber.

The design of the simplest reactive stove, which is intended only for cooking, uses precisely the natural combustion of wood - in an open chamber it is impossible to create conditions for maintaining the pyrolysis reaction and the afterburning of unburned gases.

Let's consider a simple design of a direct combustion rocket stove, which is traditionally installed in an open area in the yard. You can quickly heat a certain amount of water on it, or prepare lunch for your family on vacation. From the figure below, it becomes clear that to manufacture such a sample, you will need two sections of a cylindrical or rectangular iron pipe, which are connected to each other by welding at an angle of 900.

The simplest rocket device

A horizontal section of a metal box acts as a combustion chamber; firewood is placed there. Fuel loading can also be organized vertically - simply add a vertical iron cylinder on top of the horizontal pipe into which firewood will be loaded. Thus, you will get a structure of three pipes or boxes, the lowest of which (horizontal) will work as a firebox. In a stationary scheme, the simplest design of such a stove often uses ordinary red brick, which is placed on a clay mortar.

The efficiency of such a design cannot be called satisfactory, so the craftsmen came up with another scheme that increases the efficiency of the “rocket”. An additional element of this improvement is another pipe of a larger diameter (as you can see, all materials are available and cheap), into which the main pipe of the riser stove (primary chimney) is installed. This way you can increase the overall heating of the stove and the duration of heat retention.

Scheme of a furnace with an insulated riser

On the diagram:

1. Outer casing made of pipe;
2. A pipe that serves as a firebox;
3. Channel for air outlet into the combustion chamber;
4. Insulated area between the body and the riser. The same ash can serve as insulation.

Manufacturing a modernized Robinson furnace

The model described in the previous section can be improved with a door that is installed on the fuel hopper. But if you make the sash on hinges, it will simply tilt upward, which will not allow you to adjust the draft. Such a part can only be in the “closed” or “open” position. It will be much more effective to use a damper that moves vertically or horizontally. To install it, you need to weld small corners measuring 10x10 mm or 15x15 mm onto the hopper.

In addition, the following options for modernizing the furnace are noted:

• the fuel hopper can be made of thicker steel, for example 5 mm;
• replace the round chimney pipe with a square one;
• for the stand, use a different design: as an option, take corners, balls or other elements that are at hand;
• change the stand for the camping rocket stove, for which a metal plate and a piece of reinforcement can be used to make a leg.

To make a modernized stove, you will need the following: materials:

1. Square pipe with a cross-section of 160×160 mm and a length of 400 mm. The firebox will be made from it.
2. Square pipe with a cross-section of 120×120 mm and a length of 600 mm. It is needed to make a chimney.
3. A five-millimeter sheet of steel and a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 7-8 mm. They will be used to make an element separating the fuel compartment and the blower duct. The size of the part should be 300×155 mm.
4. Steel sheet 350×180 mm. This material is necessary for the manufacture of a stove stand.
5. Steel sheet measuring 160×100 mm.

Production technology for this model of camping stove is not fundamentally different from creating similar structures:

1. A metal plate with a grate must be welded to the walls of the bunker.
2. Then the back of the container is attached, and the chimney is attached on top.
3. When the entire structure is ready, a metal stand is welded to it from below, and an additional support is made from a piece of reinforcement. You can also use part of the vertical pipe that remains after cutting.
4. Pieces of corners are welded on top of the vertical pipe, which will form a stand for dishes. Its height should be 40-50 mm.
5. The opening in the fuel tank must be closed with a hinged door or a flap inserted into the corners.
6. The finished product can be tested. If everything went well, the welds are cleaned and the reaction furnace is coated with heat-resistant paint. This will not only give the product a more attractive appearance, but will also protect the metal from corrosion.

Jet heating unit from a propane cylinder

A rocket stove made from a gas cylinder is an easy-to-make wood-burning stove that uses fuel economically and effectively warms up the room.

For its assembly it is used:

• empty propane cylinder (unit body);
• steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm (for arranging a chimney and a vertical channel);
• steel profile pipe 150x150 mm (firebox and loading hopper are made);
• sheet steel 3 mm thick.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder requires the use of a welding machine. If you are planning to assemble such a rocket stove with your own hands, the drawings will help you accurately maintain the optimal dimensions of all structural elements.

Scheme of processes in a rocket furnace

At the preliminary stage of work, you should prepare a gas cylinder - turn off the valve, fill the container to the top with water to ensure that gas vapors that can explode from a spark are removed from the container. Then the top part is cut off along the seam. A hole is cut in the lower part of the resulting cylinder for the chimney, and in the bottom for the combustion chamber with an attached firebox. The vertical channel is brought out through a hole in the bottom, and a structure from a profile pipe is welded on the bottom side, according to the rocket drawing.

Attention! The sheet metal cover should be made removable and a non-flammable seal (asbestos cord) should be provided for reliable sealing. The flat lid is used as a cooking surface.
. If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove

If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

If you are installing a rocket stove from a gas cylinder yourself, you should pay close attention to the quality of the welds and check their tightness - air should not flow uncontrollably into the working stove. If everything is in order, you can install the chimney.

Important! The top of the chimney must be raised to a height of 4 meters relative to the level of the firebox in order to ensure the required draft intensity.

Such a home stove is regulated in power by the volume of fuel loading. The jet stove is put into operation by supplying air through the combustion chamber; this is regulated by the hopper lid. Next, secondary air is constantly supplied to the unit. This heating stove explodes at the end of the combustion process, since it is impossible to shut off the supply of secondary air, and soot deposits on the inner walls of the vertical channel. The casing cover is made removable so that it can be removed periodically.

Boiler unit

A long-burning boiler can be obtained by installing a water circuit on the chimney of a stove made from a gas cylinder or other materials, but according to the same scheme indicated above. However, heating the water in the circuit of such a unit will be inefficient, since the main part of the thermal energy is transferred to the air in the room and to the containers on the hob.

An effective version of a rocket stove made from a metal barrel

If you want to create a rocket boiler for water heating with high efficiency, you will have to sacrifice the cooking function. A do-it-yourself rocket stove according to the drawing presented below can be installed in a short time.

This will require:

• fireclay bricks and refractory masonry composition (for installing the base of the stove with a firebox);
• steel pipe with a diameter of 70 mm (for a vertical channel);
• steel barrel (for the casing);
• fireproof heat insulator;
• sheet steel 3 mm thick and a metal barrel (or pipe) of smaller diameter than the casing (for arranging a water jacket and smoke channels for heating the water circuit);
• steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
• container, pipes and connecting pipes for arranging a heat accumulator.

A rocket furnace with a water circuit is characterized by the fact that the thermal insulation of the vertical channel provides an optimal combustion mode for pyrolysis gases, while all the heated air enters the “coil” with a water jacket and releases the main part of the thermal energy there, heating the coolant.

Rocket stove with water circuit

The heat accumulator will continue to supply heated coolant to the heating circuit even after the furnace itself has cooled down. The container with water is equipped with a thick layer of insulation.

How to make a rocket stove with your own hands

He has several stages- selection of a suitable design; selection of materials and tools; direct production.

Project selection

When choosing a suitable project, consider the following factors:

1. The purpose of the stove is whether it requires only cooking food or also heating the room.
2. Available materials.
3. Approximate power. It depends on how many servings of food or how much room the device will be enough for.

Materials

For a brick structure you will need:

• fireclay (fireproof) brick;
• fireproof mixture for masonry;
• concrete mortar (for the base);
• mineral wool;
• asbestos;
• a whole barrel or an empty gas cylinder for the cap (optional);
• stove doors - combustion chamber and ash pan;
• if the cap is brick - a thick sheet of stainless steel according to the size of its cross-section.

For finishing the stove the following are used:

• fireproof paint;
• clay;
• stones;
• and so on.

For metal, take:

1. Round metal pipe with diameter about 150 mm and length no more than 90 mm(better about 60 mm).
2. Profiled (rectangular) pipe with a cross-section of 100-120 mm and length about a third round.
3. Instead of a rectangular pipe, you can take a sheet of steel thick 3 mm.
4. 3 nuts.
5. Steel rods, plates or long bolts for legs.

Reference. For better traction, take a profiled pipe with the side no more than the diameter of a round one.

Preparing tools

For production you will need:

• Master OK;
• level;
• welding machine;
• bayonet shovel;
• metal brush;
• level;
• Bulgarian.

Manufacturing, device sizes

There are many variations on this theme. Let's consider making two fundamentally different types of reactive stove. This is a brick stove with a stove bench, which is used indoors, and a camp stove, assembled from metal. If necessary, changes are made, combinations of methods are possible (for example, a heating and cooking device, but made of pipes covered with clay or stones).

How to make a brick oven with a stove bench

First stage- foundation installation. A rectangular recess is dug under it, which is then filled with concrete.

For strength, it is better to pre-install the reinforcement. The base must be strictly horizontal.

After the concrete solution has hardened Brick laying begins. External walls are located along the perimeter of the concrete platform. A combustion chamber is formed. On one side of it there is a combustion chamber with a hole for loading firewood. On the other side there are air ducts.

Important! Each row of bricks is also checked with a level. This is done in both planes - horizontal and vertical

In the combustion chamber also leave a hole for cleaning ash which is closed by a door. When this chamber is ready, a metal barrel is put on it. The gaps are filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

If the barrel is not used, it is installed on top cooking stove. Asbestos insulation is placed under it.

The chimney is connected to the air duct and discharged to the street.

Then finished the device is decorated. For example, it is coated with clay and covered with paint. Another option is to leave the brickwork.

Jet stove for camping

It consists of two compartments, connected to each other. To assemble it, first cut the pipes at an angle 45°. If you took a metal sheet instead of the second pipe, cut it into the following parts:

• two with sides 300 mm and 150 mm;
• two - 300 mm and 100 mm;
• and one 150 and 100 mm.

Photo 3. Ready-made jet stove for hiking. The device is made of metal pipes.

Then weld them together. You will also need another plate to separate the fuel compartment, its dimensions are 200 mm and 100 mm.

All fragments are welded together in accordance with the diagram. The round pipe is attached to the bottom of the rectangular pipe and in the middle relative to the sides.

Welded from scraps of reinforcement grate. It is convenient to make it retractable in order to lay firewood and then slide it inside the firebox.

The pipe is sawed off 4 rings. They are attached to the top so that the dishes do not block the draft hole.

In a collapsible version legs are installed. Nuts are welded from below, into which long bolts are then screwed. There is another way. Rods or scraps of steel sheet are welded to the bottom. It is less convenient to transport, but there is no need for assembly.

When the design is ready, it needs to be painted. Only fireproof paint is used. This will protect against corrosion and also cover solder marks.

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

• two tin containers of different diameters;
• a couple of corners;
• steel clamps ø10 cm;
• stainless steel pipe for chimney;
• fine crushed stone;
• Bulgarian;

metal scissors.

Making a camping and garden stove

Making a camping and garden stove

Making a camping and garden stove

In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, cut a hole for the pipe

We cut the metal into petals and bend them inside the bucket

Forward flow

Forward flow

Place small crushed stones in a bucket

We put the second bucket-lid on the rocket stove pipe

Bend a cookware burner from wire

Bend a hotplate from wire

We melt the rocket oven

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks. . Step 7

All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Topics dedicated to boilers, homemade stoves and heating equipment are always popular on FORUMHOUSE. No wonder. Indeed, due to the constant rise in energy prices, the difficulties and high cost of connecting to main gas, many are thinking about finding an alternative to “blue fuel”.

Despite the large selection of ready-made factory products, our enthusiasts create their own heating system designs. Of particular interest is a solid fuel boiler built by a user of our portal with the nickname Perelesnik. It attracted increased attention because... Its operation is based on the operating principle of a rocket stove. In this material we will talk about the main stages of boiler development preceding its construction.

How it all started

Before moving on to the technical features of the boiler, it is worth focusing on the background of its construction.

Perelesnik User FOUMHOUSE

My house has gas installed, but I periodically thought about switching to solid fuel. The only thing stopping us was that gas heating was profitable, and switching to firewood turned out to be unprofitable. I heated the house with a 7 kW electrode boiler, working in conjunction with an air conditioner, which was used “for heating”. During severe frosts, the house was additionally heated with a gas-fired boiler. And now gas prices have risen...

It was the increase in gas prices that was the event that led to the development of the rocket boiler.

Before you go and immediately buy “something” called a “solid fuel boiler”, Perelesnik started studying the subject. He familiarized himself with the list of equipment offered in stores, looked at how his neighbors’ boilers worked, understood what the most common problems arise, and studied reviews on the Internet.

After brainstorming, a list of requirements appeared that the device must meet - from the point of view Perelesnik:

• Possibility of stable operation at power from 2 to 20 kW. This is due to the peculiarities of the climate in the region where the forum member lives. In winter, the temperature can stay around 0°C for a month, and then drop sharply to -25...30°C for a week. In the autumn-spring period the temperature is within +5…+10°C. Because the house also needs to be heated in the off-season, but the boiler does not require maximum power, you need a “flexibly” adjustable device.
• The boiler must be “omnivorous”, i.e. Everything that can burn should burn in the firebox - firewood, fuel briquettes, coal, waste, etc., including wet fuel.
• The design of the boiler should provide for the laying of logs with a diameter of up to 20 cm. This will reduce the need for chopping firewood.
• Must work from night to morning on one load of fuel. In severe frost, the number of full fuel loads should not exceed three.
• Complete energy independence. The device should work without the need to connect it to the electrical network. In the event of a wire break or power outage, the operation of the circulation pump (it must pump the coolant) is ensured by a backup power system.

The heating system is selected depending on the climatic conditions of your residence, heat loss at home, the availability of a particular type of fuel, and energy prices in your region.

Also among the main requirements for the boiler were:

• high efficiency, simple and inexpensive chimney design;
• small formation of soot and deposits (which means there is no need for frequent cleaning of the boiler and its operating efficiency increases);
• safety of boiler operation under any operating conditions, heat resistance of components;
• possibility of additional loading of firewood during operating mode;
• ease of operation of the boiler when installed in a residential area;
• light weight and dimensions.

The most interesting thing is that all these requirements were planned to be “fitted” into the budget, not exceeding 500 dollars excluding labor costs.

It is enough to just briefly familiarize yourself with the requirements to understand that finding a solid fuel boiler that meets all the items on the list is not an easy task. That's why Perelesnik I decided to go two ways:

1. Try to find a finished factory product.
2. If unsuccessful, copy the design of the finished boiler and make it yourself.

During the search and further study of information, both options disappeared. Due to technical features: the “capriciousness” of working with “wet” wood, the inability to work at low power, etc. Long-burning pyrolysis boilers were not suitable. We were also not happy with the “homemade products” found on the World Wide Web. The third option remained - on the basis of my knowledge and acquired experience, to develop the design of a solid fuel boiler “for myself.”

Rocket boiler - theory

During my search Perelesnik came across a rocket stove, and this design “hooked” him.

Perelesnik

The rocket stove attracted me because it does not require any special chimney to operate; one might say that it is not needed at all. The rocket stove has excellent thrust, and without the use of any fans. Its design ensures high-temperature afterburning of furnace gases. It is not demanding on fuel quality and operates efficiently at different power levels.

All that was left was to make a boiler out of the stove. Looking ahead, let’s say that almost a year passed from the idea to the implementation of the furnace “in metal”. This included several months of searching for the optimal design, calculations, and experiments. It took three months to actually make the boiler, but the result was worth it.

We managed to make a device that met almost all the requirements on the list (except that additional fuel can be loaded only when the previous batch burns down to the state of coals). Moreover, it was possible meet the planned budget, although “stainless steel” was used for the construction of the internal parts and parts of the boiler and homemade heat-resistant ceramics were used.

Perelesnik developed a diagram that clearly shows the operating principle of his boiler.

To understand why a rocket furnace was chosen as the basis for the boiler, it is worth focusing on the theoretical part.

Rocket stoves are well known. They are built by enthusiasts and DIYers all over the world. The simplicity of their design, the ability to do without the use of expensive materials, and the great variability of such stoves are captivating. A rocket stove can be either a small camp stove (they cook food on them), made from pieces of metal pipes and tin cans.

And also large, heating, with a massive heat accumulator and a built-in bed. This “rocket” fits perfectly into the design of a modern cottage.

According to Perelesnik, The book by American authors “Rocket Furnaces” provided great assistance in the development of his boiler. It clearly, and most importantly - simply and clearly - explains the basic principles of independent construction of rocket stoves. From this book the main dimensions and proportions of the “heart” of the rocket boiler were also borrowed - the so-called. "J-tubes".

Perelesnik

The “rocket” creates excellent conditions for combustion. Fuel and furnace gases burn completely. The resulting heat is not “taken away” until all reactions are completed, and only then is it used.

The advantages and disadvantages of the “rocket” are derived from the features of its design. At the rocket furnace, due to long vertical and an additional insulated channel, the length of the path that the furnace gases travel increases.

Gases, while passing through an elongated channel, mix with already heated air and acquire a temperature that best promotes all combustion processes. Carbon is also burned, which, if not burned, is deposited in the form of soot.

The high efficiency of the “rocket” is ensured by the fact that wood is burned, which is released during the thermal decomposition of solid fuel (so-called pyrolysis).

Due to the large temperature difference that occurs at the inlet and outlet of the vertical pipe channel, a powerful natural draft arises. Accordingly, there will be no need to build a high chimney, which provides draft in conventional stoves.

It should be taken into account that the gases entering the smoke channel have a high temperature. To prevent the energy generated by the furnace from going down the drain, you need to take away some of this heat. To do this, a stove bench is attached to the rocket stove, into which flue gases are released through horizontally laid brick channels. It turns out to be a heat accumulator. The second option is to add a jacket to the stove. From here it’s already a stone’s throw to a solid fuel boiler.

Pushing off from this base, Perelesnik I decided that we needed to make a boiler that operated on the same principle as a rocket stove.

The simplest solutions for organizing heating of a private home will always be popular, especially among DIYers. These include a wood-burning rocket stove, which you can make with your own hands without significant financial costs. The heater is quite interesting and deserves special attention. Let's look at the operating principle of a rocket stove, its advantages and disadvantages, and methods of making it at home.

How does a rocket stove work?

It is noteworthy, but the so-called rocket or jet stove actually has nothing to do with jet propulsion, much less with space flights. This popular name arose for 2 reasons: due to some similarity of the operating unit to an inverted rocket and due to the buzzing sound. True, it appears in a certain mode and indicates too much air supplied to the firebox.

Important. A mode in which the rocket stove makes a loud noise or even roars is ineffective and uneconomical. During normal operation of the potbelly stove, only a quiet rustling sound is heard.

At the moment there are 2 types of jet wood stoves:

• portable;
• stationary (heating).

A metal camping stove "Robinson" with a folding tripod easily fits into a backpack

The simplest portable modification of a rocket-type stove is mass-produced under the name “Robinson” and is intended for heating water and cooking food in camp conditions. Using her example, it is easiest to understand the principle of operation of the unit. Essentially, it is a pipe in the shape of an inverted letter “L”, as shown in the diagram:

How does a rocket stove work:

1. Firewood is inserted into the horizontal part of the pipe, which serves as a receiving hopper for fuel, and set on fire from the vertical section.
2. Natural draft occurs inside the L-shaped channel due to the temperature difference between the incoming air flow and the outgoing flue gases.
3. The combustion intensity of a rocket stove increases as the body warms up, so it is necessary to limit the air supply. Otherwise, the wood will burn out very quickly - all the heat will fly out into the chimney.

The operating principle of the so-called jet furnace is to use the energy of the upward flow of combustion products. The higher the temperature of the firebox walls, the more intense the wood burns and the more powerful the flame.

Due to the natural draft that arises, a simple steel Robinson stove heats a large container of water in about ten minutes. And if you make the vertical section insulated, as shown in the diagram, then after warming up you will be able to burn fairly thick logs.

Stationary oven option

Do-it-yourself stationary rocket stoves for heating a home are equipped with a special hood to retain the heat of the flue gases and then transfer it into the room. In this case, the overall picture of wood burning is somewhat different. With a limited supply of primary air and fuel combustion, pyrolysis gases begin to be released. They are burned in the lower part of the vertical pipe, where secondary air is supplied through a separate channel.

A stationary rocket stove does not differ in operating principle from a portable one, only the flue gases are discharged through the hood and stove bench into the chimney

Note. In this regard, a wood stove is a long-burning rocket, only it does not use a fan to force air.

The hot combustion products, rising under the hood, begin to cool, after which they fall in the space between the walls and enter the chimney channel. In this case, three forces act on the gases:

1. Gravity. It causes colder and heavier gases to descend and be directed towards the exit of the chimney duct.
2. The pressure of new combustion products arriving at a higher temperature from the firebox.
3. Natural draft force of the chimney.

The sum of these three forces makes it possible to attach smoke channels of arbitrary shape to a rocket-type stove, just to take away more heat. In practice, this is used to make a heated bed from a rocket stove, as shown in the diagram:

Note. There is another way to prevent the release of heat along with flue gases to the outside. To do this, a chimney is made from the rocket stove with a water jacket and two pipes that are connected to.

A stationary “rocket” can be made of metal, add a hob and a heat exchanger to heat water for heating

About the advantages and disadvantages

The so-called jet stove is the cheapest option for heating a private home. In this regard, she has no equal. Moreover, a good craftsman is able to make a brick stove in such a way that it will look quite decent in the interior of the room. In fact, you only have to refine the protruding metal cap and the lid of the fuel chamber. The remaining parts of the unit, along with the gas ducts, will be hidden from view.

Homemade rocket stoves certainly cannot be called super-efficient, but in general, this indicator largely depends on the homeowner himself. If you constantly burn raw wood, then it will be of little use. Just as there is no point in trying to achieve a “roaring” mode from the heat generator, mistakenly believing that it is the best. Here it is necessary to limit the air supply manually, as is done in long-burning heaters.

There is only one way to supply a jet stove with a water circuit - install a heat exchanger on the chimney and connect it to a heat accumulator or directly to the heating radiators

Many stoves, including rocket stoves, suffer from the loss of useful heat through the chimney, so in this case it would not hurt to attach a water circuit to the flue pipe, as mentioned above. Well, a large amount of heat will be taken away by the bed, although you will have to work hard to set it up. The remaining negative aspects of the rocket look like this:

1. The unit requires constant supervision and manual control, since it lacks any automation.
2. Loading firewood must be done quite often.
3. The metal cap heats up to a temperature that causes burns to a person after touching. This is dangerous for small children.

Note. Homemade rocket-type stoves are not suitable for heating a bathhouse, since under normal operating conditions they are unable to generate a large amount of heat in a short period of time.

The easiest way to make your own is a small portable stove - the Robinson rocket, whose drawing is presented below. You will need cutting profile pipes, metal for legs and stands, as well as welding skills. Moreover, compliance with the exact dimensions indicated in the drawing is not necessary. You can take pipes of a different section, but you just need to reduce or increase them proportionally so that the parts fit together.

Drawing of an improved “Robinson” camping stove with nozzles made of a profile pipe, cut lengthwise into 2 parts

Note. Please note that the drawing shows a design improved by our expert. As befits a rocket, improvised nozzles are attached to it, which receives secondary air for afterburning, which enters the pipe through a series of holes. Due to this modernization, the combustion intensity increases noticeably. For more information about the operation of a compact wood stove, watch the video:

The most common versions of large rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. You must understand that these ready-made elements are used as an outer hood, and the internal parts of the stove must be made from pipes of smaller diameter or laid out from fireclay bricks. Moreover, from a cylinder you can make both a stationary heater with a small bench, and a unit that can be moved.

Please note that calculating the thermal power of a rocket-type furnace is quite difficult; there is no single calculation method. It’s easier to rely on ready-made drawings of already working samples and assemble according to them. You just need to compare the dimensions of the future stove with the dimensions of the heated room. For example, to heat a small room, the size of a cylinder is enough; in other cases, it is better to take a large barrel. The selection of internal parts for them is shown in the diagram:

2 options for potbelly stoves - from a gas cylinder and a standard iron barrel

Stove rocket from a cylinder

In addition to the gas cylinder itself, to assemble the stove you will need:

• profile pipe 150 x 150 mm for the firebox and loading hopper;
• steel pipes with a diameter of 70 and 150 mm will go to the internal vertical channel;
• the same with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
• insulation (basalt fiber with a density of at least 100 kg/m³);
• sheet metal 3 mm thick.

For a master skilled in welding, this work will not be particularly difficult. The top of the cylinder should be cut off along the seam, after first unscrewing the valve and filling it to the top with water. Openings are cut on both sides for installing a firebox and inserting a chimney. A profile pipe is inserted and connected to a vertical channel, which is discharged through the bottom of the cylinder. Further work on the manufacture of the rocket furnace is carried out in accordance with the drawing:

At the end, the upper part must be welded into place, then carefully check all seams for permeability so that air does not flow uncontrollably into the oven. After this, you can attach a chimney with a water jacket (if available) and begin testing.

Important. To create sufficient draft, the top of the pipe must be raised above the level of the firebox to a height of 4 m.

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

This stove option will require the purchase of fireclay bricks; ordinary ceramic bricks will not work for a rocket stove. The masonry is done using fireclay clay mortar; it is also sold as a ready-made building mixture. How to make a stationary rocket stove:

1. First you need to dig a hole, compact the bottom and pour a foundation measuring 1200 x 400 mm and 100 mm high, as shown in the photo.
   
2. After hardening, the foundation is covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard and the combustion chamber, a bunker for loading firewood and a vertical channel are laid. A door is installed at the end of the combustion chamber to clean the ash pan.
   
3. After the clay has dried, the pit is filled up, and a pre-selected pipe or small barrel with a diameter of 450 mm is placed on the vertical channel. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe walls is filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, basalt wool, expanded clay, vermiculite.
   
4. At the last stage, a cap made of a large metal barrel with a diameter of 600 mm is put on the structure. First, a cutout is made in its upper part and a pipe is installed to connect the chimney. When the barrel turns over, he will be at the bottom.

Then it’s a matter of technology; you can take the chimney directly outside or build another bench with smoke circulation. For this purpose, ordinary ceramic bricks and clay-sand mortar will do. The order of the brickwork of a rocket stove with a small bench is shown in detail in the video:

Conclusion

Of course, a wood-burning rocket stove is not the height of perfection and is attractive only because of its simplicity and cheapness. And fitting it into the interior of a living space is quite a challenge. This suggests the conclusion that such a heat source can be constructed somewhere in a dacha or in a temporary shelter where people do not stay permanently. The heater is not afraid of long breaks between lighting and warms up quickly enough. This unit is not suitable for heating a large residential building or bathhouse; other solutions are needed.

Drawings and videos of a rocket stove required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself jet stove: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket stove, etc. + video

The jet stove or rocket stove appeared as a result of a deviation from the traditions of manufacturing equipment for heating a room. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many people are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

A heat generator for heating the air in a room is called a rocket stove or jet stove, since during operation, in case of excessive air supply, it makes special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for the roar of a jet engine. In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

A rocket stove serves as a device for heating a home and cooking food. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on a top-burning furnace.

The flame from the jet furnace may burst out

The advantages of the rocket stove include:

• independence from fuel energy;
• simplicity of design, consisting of accessible parts, connected in a matter of minutes;
• the ability to provide a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

• manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
• danger of burns, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
• It is inappropriate to use in a bathhouse, since it cannot be warmed up.

Kinds

A unit that emits a rocket-like hum during operation can be:

• portable (a unit made of metal pipes, buckets or a gas cylinder); Portable rocket stoves are mass-produced by industry
• stationary (made from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such a unit is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
• equipment for heating air with a stove bench. The stove bench is equipped behind the back wall of the stove

Portable structures are manufactured in large quantities, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several sections.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. Walls made of refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the jet furnace.

If desired, you can add a bench in the form of a sofa or bed, decorated with clay or sawdust.

Parts and operation of a jet heat generator

A basic rocket furnace is a device consisting of two pipe fragments connected by a bend at an angle of 90 degrees.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes fuel is placed in the vertical section of the apparatus, for which a rocket stove is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air passes through the furnace

The operation of a jet stove is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases produced during fuel combustion.

Wood chips and firewood are placed in the firebox of this heat generator after a highly flammable material such as paper ignites. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed container, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes occurring inside a stationary reactive furnace resemble the operation of pyrolysis heating units

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the furnace should be determined wisely, because it affects the power and amount of heat generated by the heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of jet heating equipment, use the indicator of the internal diameter of the drum D, the value of which can range from 300–600 mm. You also need to know the cross-sectional area of ​​the drum.

To determine this indicator of the rocket stove, you should use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 /4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are presented in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with the stove bench. The maximum permissible values ​​are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also an important indicator, depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Construction raw materials for the construction of a non-standard furnace

The production of jet heating equipment will require:

• barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty liquefied gas cylinder or tin buckets to build a furnace drum;
• square or round steel pipes 2–3 mm thick, which are needed to create a blower, combustion chamber and primary chimney;
• fireclay crushed stone and oven clay as thermal insulation materials;
• adobe, which serves as the outer coating layer;
• fireclay bricks;
• sand from the bottom of the river;
• pieces of sheets of zinc-coated steel or aluminum for the manufacture of lids and doors;
• asbestos or basalt cardboard, which serves as a sealant.

When constructing a rocket stove, you will need a welding machine. And if you plan to make heating equipment from bricks, then you will have to take:

• Master OK;
• mortar spatula;
• hammer-pick;
• jointing;
• sharp-angled sledgehammer;
• level;
• plumb line;
• roulette

Preparation for assembling heating equipment

When choosing a location for a rocket stove, follow some rules:

• jet heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of ​​at least 16 m²;
• Without floorboards under the stove, installation of equipment will be easier;
• It is prohibited to place wooden beams above a structure that produces heat;
• if it is assumed that the chimney will go through the ceilings, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
• the heat generator cannot be installed near the external contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
• The jet device must not be placed next to walls and partitions of wooden materials.

To make it convenient to add fuel to jet heating equipment, it is wiser to place it facing the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied space around the rocket stove.

In a small house, builders advise setting aside a place for the stove in the corner. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the bed (if it is made) – in the other.

The stove stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures

Having found a suitable site for the rocket stove, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. A hole is dug under the exposed floor, the bottom of which is necessarily pressed.

Before construction work, a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay combined in a 1:1 ratio. You will need enough water so that the construction raw materials have the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ of the amount of dry ingredients.

Step-by-step instructions for making it yourself

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

1. the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;

   The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom

2. Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is, a gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (fuel firebox);

   Dimensions in mm

3. the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
4. To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

1. The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay reinforcement mesh or metal rods in it;

   The platform will harden in about two days

2. The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
3. The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;

   Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open

4. Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;

   The work requires accuracy

5. An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
6. The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
7. The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. When doing this, they constantly use a building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;

   The height of the pipe is determined in advance

8. The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of ​​the vertical channel is sealed with raw clay, the function of which is to prevent the thermal insulation material from spilling onto the floor;
9. From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
10. To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
11. They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
12. A metal barrel casing is placed on the previously created base. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
13. A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;

    At this stage the oven looks almost finished

14. A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
15. The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
16. Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.

    The oven functions as a whole system

Design improvement

A bench with a gas duct inside is not the only option for upgrading a rocket stove. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to the heating system in which water circulates. It is desirable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil created from a copper pipe twisting onto the chimney.

This design provides even more heat

Another way to improve a jet furnace is to organize the flow of heated secondary air into the flame tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to the deposition of a large amount of soot in the primary chimney. Therefore, it is better to make sure that the drum cover can be removed if necessary.

Subtleties of operating an unconventional stove

A rocket furnace is heated in a similar way to a top combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket must be carried out according to certain rules:

• the main raw material for heating the unit must be added only after the structure has been well heated, for which purpose sawdust or paper is first placed in the blower sector and set on fire;
• they must react to the muting of the hum emanating from the stove - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the hot remains of sawdust;
• the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying the firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after some time, when the equipment makes a hum, it is closed to produce a sound similar to a rustling;
• as necessary, the damper is closed more and more, otherwise the firebox will be filled with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt the pyrolysis inside the fire tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the jet stove was originally created for use in the field, its design is extremely simple. This allows an ordinary home craftsman to cope with the manufacture of the unit. But, despite its apparent lightness, the rocket stove must be assembled, taking into account the correct ratio of parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will be unproductive.

• Ksenia Zubkova
• Print

Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY rocket oven - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country almost no one knows about the rocket stove. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and the high combustion temperature.

Jet stove

Rocket stove

Today we will talk about how to make a rocket oven with your own hands.

Principle of operation

Hot gases, instead of a chimney, enter a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). At the same time, the temperature increases even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the stove reaches the combustion mode with maximum draft (the strength of the latter depends on the design features and quality of installation).

Rocket stove

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒC, as a result of which all waste burns almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (a couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used to heat water, cook food, dry fruits, etc.

Jet furnaces

The advantages include:

• high efficiency;
• no soot;
• high temperature;
• the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - almost everything burns at a temperature of 1200ᵒ;
• low fuel consumption - approximately four times lower than in the standard design.

Types of rocket stoves

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) stoves.

1. Portable structures made from tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Excellent helpers on a construction site or on a hike, which can be made in just a few hours.
2. Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels, intended for heating heat-intensive masses. They are distinguished by a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to provide draft.
3. Completely brick structures are used for air-heated floors. They consist of several chimney pipes at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of implementing the third option, only the first two will be considered in this article.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

In this case, the work traditionally begins with preparing everything necessary.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

• fireclay brick;
• steel barrel 200 l;
• chimney pipe;
• metal brush;
• old barbecue;
• fire resistant paint;
• bayonet shovel;
• expanded clay;
• fittings;
• adobe;
• perlite;
• cement mortar;
• trowel. Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is dug in the floor (if possible) approximately 30-50 cm deep. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise too much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a hood for the furnace. First, the barrel is fired and cleaned of soot with a wire brush, after which it is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Note! Paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange has been installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1. Preparing the formwork for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks are driven into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid at the bottom.

Step 4. Bricks are laid level around the bottom point of the combustion chamber.

Step 5. The base is filled with concrete mortar.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 4. Masonry

After the solution has dried, you can begin laying the rocket stove.

Note! To do this, you need to use only refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises up, leaving only a hole for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. At the second level, the lower channel of the furnace is formed.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Step 3. On the third, the channel is covered with masonry so that there are two holes - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! The bricks do not need to be hewn after laying - they will still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of approximately 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel to connect the chimney. It is also advisable to install a tee here for cleaning the chimney.

Step 5. The ascending part of the structure is placed using the “boot” method. The internal cross-section of this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A piece of water heater is placed on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with fireclay clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is lined with bags filled with sand, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is placed on the rising part.

Step 9. A test run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and filled with expanded clay.

Step 2. The structure is given the appropriate shape using fireclay clay.

Note! A rocket stove requires a large amount of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to install an air duct from the street.

All that remains is to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are sealed with clay. That's it, the brick rocket oven is ready for use.

A stove-bed built on the principle of a rocket stove

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, diagram

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping and garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

• two tin containers of different diameters;
• a couple of corners;
• steel clamps ø10 cm;
• stainless steel pipe for chimney;
• fine crushed stone;
• Bulgarian;
• metal scissors. Making a camping garden stove Making a camping garden stove Making a camping garden stove In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, we cut a hole for the pipe. We cut the metal into petals and bend it inside the bucket. for dishes From wire we bend the burner for dishes We heat the rocket stove

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Operating rules for rocket stoves

Rocket stoves, as well as other long-burning designs, need to be launched onto a warm pipe. And if for the second version of the stove this is not so important, then for the first, a cold chimney will only lead to wasted burning of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs to be preheated - heated with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet stove is unable to self-adjust, so at first the vent opens completely, and closes only after the structure begins to hum strongly. Subsequently, the availability of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bathhouse

Jet wood stove with deck chair

Many people are probably interested in the question: is it possible to use a jet stove in a bathhouse? It would seem that it is possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In reality, such a design is not suitable for a bathhouse. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after some time, the air. For the latter, the oven must be a center of convection and thermal radiation (IR). This is the problem - in a rocket furnace, convection is clearly distributed, and the design does not provide for losses due to thermal radiation at all.

DIY rocket oven

conclusions

Be that as it may, today in the manufacture of rocket stoves there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest you watch the video instructions for making a rocket stove.

– Do-it-yourself jet stove

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY long-burning brick rocket stove: drawing, instructions, photo

A rocket stove made of long-burning bricks, despite its simplicity of design, can solve a number of problems for owners of dachas and private houses. These include not only heating and cooking functions, but also the creation of an original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and turn into wood gas during combustion, which has a high level of heat transfer during combustion.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In a rocket-type furnace, due to the horizontal channel, gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of jet heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas pass through a number of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket there is no need for additional boost. The draft in them is created by the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the upward flow.

Principle of operation

This diagram shows the operating principle of a rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Long combustion rocket stoves have the following advantages:

• high efficiency - at least 85%;
• high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
• absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
• the ability to operate on solid fuel of any type;
• low consumption - the fuel consumption of a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than a conventional stove under equal conditions: combustion time and heating temperature;
• the possibility of installing a warm bed;
• Duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

This stove has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

• manual method of controlling a heating device - fuel burns out quickly and requires regular reporting;
• the high heating temperature of some structural elements threatens owners with burns in case of accidental contact;
• the heating speed does not allow the use of a rocket stove for baths;
• the aesthetic component of such a device is not for everyone and is not suitable for every interior;
• danger of carbon monoxide entering living rooms.

Materials

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket stove are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For laying the main part of the building, simple red stove bricks are usually used. The firebox and combustion bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorie fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. The masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of design for a long-burning rocket stove, you will need to buy stove accessories:

• blower;
• grates;
• firebox doors;
• intermediate cap;
• chimney pipe.

Tools

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

• trowels for scooping and distributing the solution. It is more convenient to work with a tool with the handle moved slightly to the side;
• picks or hammers - picks for trimming individual parts of brick;
• grinders with a diamond blade for sawing whole blocks into quarters and halves;
• mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
• twisted cord - moorings;
• building level;
• square and tape measure;
• shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for preparing the solution, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting the ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks at a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick stoves closer to the front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the point where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. Moreover, the stove should not be adjacent to the external wall of the house, so that expensive heat is not lost to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for laying heating devices made of bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

• place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
• remove the tool and shake well;
• check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without the use of metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which the air from the hob will fall down to move to the stove bench
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After completing the masonry work, the homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the required amount of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until its outer surface is cleared of damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

You need to launch a brick rocket stove only when the chimney is warm. For a small device, this property is not so significant, and a larger stove on a cold pipe only wastes firewood.

Therefore, to bake a rocket before loading the fuel quota after a long break in operation, you need to heat it with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a ash pit with the door open. When the hum in the stove decreases in pitch or subsides, then you can load all the fuel into the firebox; it should ignite by itself from the existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a completely self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the fire with the normal amount of fuel, the ash door is left in the open position. After the stove begins to hum strongly, it is covered until the sound produced is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to heat the stove; wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the required temperature, which can lead to reverse draft.

Conclusion

The brick jet stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings, both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, low cost of material, long battery life and high heat transfer of this design.