Balcony heating. Warm balcony (loggia). What heat sources can there be for heating? How to make a warm balcony with your own hands

Owners of apartments with a loggia have an additional opportunity to make their home comfortable and cozy. A well-equipped, warm loggia can be used for various purposes by all family members. It can become a real living room.

Whatever you decide to place on the loggia - a study, a winter garden, a dining area or a dressing room, this can be an excellent opportunity to use your design talent. All stages of landscaping can be easily done with your own hands.

Preparation for landscaping

Transforming an ordinary loggia into a functional apartment space consists of several stages. First of all, you need to take out everything unnecessary, clear the floor and walls, remove the old covering (if any) and check the condition of all surfaces.

In older homes, it is very important that the subfloor is strong. When insulating, glazing and finishing the loggia, the load on it will increase significantly, so it may be necessary to strengthen the structure. The walls and ceiling must be smooth, dry and without cracks. Damaged areas can be repaired with your own hands using cement mortar.

The parapet and walls of the loggia are usually small in thickness. For good thermal insulation, you need to make additional masonry from brick or aerated concrete. After this, you should install reliable windows that can protect the room from the penetration of cold, dust and noise. Metal-plastic structures cope well with this task.

They must be selected taking into account the characteristics of the local climate. A plastic window profile can have a different number of chambers and additional insulation. It is resistant to external influences, durable and does not require special care. Double-glazed windows with two chambers retain heat better.

Insulation of the loggia

In order for the loggia to become one of the living spaces of the apartment, it is necessary to create appropriate temperature conditions on it. To do this, it is necessary to minimize heat loss through surfaces bordering the street and ensure air heating to a comfortable level.

Thermal insulation of surfaces

To insulate a concrete floor base, perform the following sequence of actions:

• After the preparation described above, the surface of the floor and the lower part of the walls are treated with liquid waterproofing. You can do this yourself using a brush or roller.
• Plates of insulating material are laid closely on the concrete base. Some brands of extruded polystyrene foam have a special groove that ensures a tight fit.
• All cracks are filled with polyurethane foam.

• The surface of the insulation is covered with polyethylene film.
• A screed is made on top of which the finishing will be done. If you plan to make a wooden floor, the logs can be laid directly on the insulation boards.

Advice! If you have chosen an electric heated floor system as a heat source, it can be placed under the screed on top of a layer of insulation and foil material. Infrared film can be installed under laminate flooring or even carpeting. You can do the installation of heated floors yourself, following the instructions on the package.

The surfaces of the ceiling, walls and parapet are insulated as follows:

1. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are glued to surfaces using polyurethane glue. Additionally, you can use disc dowels.
2. Cover the surfaces with foil polyethylene foam (for example, penofol), connecting the joints with construction tape.
3. Finishing is carried out depending on the selected material. This can be moisture-resistant drywall, decorative plaster, wallpaper, lining or other material.

You can make your loggia cozy and comfortable with your own hands by providing high-quality thermal insulation and heating. Using modern materials that are available in all construction stores, this can be done quickly and without significant costs.

Warm balcony (loggia), this is cool, but how to achieve this? Let's figure it out. In this topic, we will not discuss the insulation of a balcony (loggia) itself, but what can serve as a source of heat on an already insulated balcony (loggia).

Let me start with the sore point! Once again I came across recommendations online to heat a balcony (loggia) using central heating radiators, by moving them from the adjacent (combined) room.

True, some immediately unsubscribe that this cannot be done. Already good and thanks for that. It is impossible to give such recommendations on heating, much less

TAKE THE CENTRAL HEATING BATTERIES TO THE BALCONY OR LOGGIA!!!

For those in the tank, familiarize yourself with the housing code, namely:

• Article 25. Types of reconstruction and redevelopment of residential premises
• Article 26. Grounds for reconstruction and (or) redevelopment of residential premises

The removal of central heating batteries is strictly prohibited!!!

You can also familiarize yourself with the following documents:

• SNiP 2.04.05.1991 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”
• SNiP 31-01-2003 “Residential multi-apartment buildings”

When making a warm balcony and at the same time extending the supply pipes and moving heating radiators into glazed loggias and balconies is prohibited (Resolution No. 73-PP dated 02/08/2005)

Well, if you cannot agree on these issues, then you will never see permission for redevelopment!!!

RIDICULOUS HORROR!!!

A warm balcony (loggia) with such redevelopment is an unacceptable option for those who want to live in peace. And such transferred pipes look simply “poor”!!! The beauty is incredible.

I hope you won't do that. And by the way, “power” the warm water floor from the central heating system for the same reasons IT IS FORBIDDEN!!! Based on this, we will not consider these heating methods for our warm balcony (loggia).

By the way, such options sometimes appear due to the lack "clear" or loggias so to speak. Some have a vague idea of ​​what and how they are doing….

Warm balcony (loggia). What are the possible sources of heat for heating?

So, the available heat sources are:

• Electric convectors
• (electric version is suitable for balconies (loggias)
• Oil heaters
• Infrared heaters
• Film infrared heated floor
• Carbon mats
• Self-regulating film
• Electrical cable
• Self-regulating cable
• Air conditioner running on heat
• Breathe more often (joke)

Well, various variations of all these methods. As you can see, there is plenty to choose from. The choice is more than varied, you won’t be left freezing. Here you can already think about growing flowers.

Cool window sill lighting. I'm planning to make one for myself too

All these methods are electric; no other method has been invented yet. Therefore, decide for yourself what is best for you personally to have a warm balcony (loggia). For some it’s energy savings, for others it’s appearance, and for others it’s both.

• I described my attitude towards “masterpieces” whose titles include the word film in the article: “ “.

Well, if it weren’t for my laminate, by the way, there’s a funny article on the site “Laminate as a floor covering or calculation incidents” read it, I would probably choose tiles as a floor covering, because... it has high thermal conductivity, and in combination with a layer of cement screed and tile adhesive, it accumulates heat well. Well, I would like to pick up some kind of cable with a thermostat for this purpose. There is nothing hanging on the walls, nothing in the way on the floor and no wires. This is purely my opinion.

Be sure to consider a warm balcony or loggia made according to this principle. I think this is a very good combination. There will definitely be a warm balcony here. And don’t forget that all this is good only if it is properly glazed and carefully. About.

• And the article “Balcony parapet, an important part of glazing” should also be useful. I highly recommend finding it and reading it. This will give a lot of people something to think about.

For example, in my apartment, . This loggia, which is 3.60 long and 1 meter wide, in my opinion, does not need a powerful heat source thanks to the very large and extremely warm radiator in the room (I also wrote about this). The temperature at the border of the loggia and the room remains at 23 degrees, even in severe frosts. In the room itself, somewhere around 25 degrees, and on the loggia 20-21 degrees on average, it depends heavily on the sun, sometimes it even reaches 28. I'm quite happy with it (we're talking about winter now).

In the standard version, the balcony is an unheated room, of little function in the cold season. Modern construction technologies make it possible to turn this object into a full-fledged residential area, where the internal temperature is maintained at a comfortable level even in harsh winter conditions. A well-equipped warm balcony can be safely combined with a room without losing heat in the room. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the materials and follow the installation technology.

The difference between a cold and warm balcony room

The goal of insulating any construction project is to create a heat-insulating shell that prevents the entry of cold air from outside and retains the heat generated by heating devices inside the room. To achieve such indicators on the balcony and loggia, insulation work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Warm glazing.
2. Insulation of internal surfaces.
3. Installation of a "warm floor" system.

The heated floor system on the balcony functions as a source of thermal energy, without which it is impossible to achieve comfortable conditions in a cold room. No matter how high-quality the double-glazed windows and insulating materials are, they do not generate heat, and therefore by themselves are not able to provide the required temperature on the balcony.

The heating source, in addition to the heated floor, can be a wall-mounted or free-standing radiator. However, if the neighbors below have not insulated the balcony or there is a basement below, this is ineffective.

It is difficult to make a warm balcony with your own hands from start to finish without experience in such work. Each stage has its own difficulties. For example, for glazing you will need the help of at least one person; without the skills to install window units, it is better not to undertake such work yourself. The situation is simpler with internal insulation of the balcony. With the correct selection of material and compliance with installation technology, the likelihood of a high-quality result is high.

Warm balcony in section

Glazing of balconies and loggias

To ensure that a sufficient amount of natural light penetrates into the room, most of the balcony space is occupied by windows. Standard glazing does not serve as a serious barrier to cold air. PVC profiles with multi-chamber double-glazed windows will correct the situation.

Why PVC? Wooden window structures, made taking into account heat saving criteria, are much more expensive and create an increased load on the base of the balcony. Aluminum profiles have the lowest price among all glazing options, but have low thermal resistance, so they are not used to create warm objects

Metal-plastic profile design

PVC profiles have a hollow structure, inside of which there are partitions that form separate chambers. The thermal insulation characteristics of the profile depend on the number of chambers.

On the market you can find 3-chamber, 4-chamber and 5-chamber frame profiles. The latter are considered the best option for arranging a warm balcony or loggia with a heat transfer resistance coefficient of 0.8 m² °C/W. For comparison, in a 3-chamber profile the same parameter is 0.6 m²·°C/W.

An important point when choosing a PVC profile is the presence of reinforcement (a metal profile made of durable galvanized steel is inserted into one of the internal chambers), which increases the rigidity of the structure. Some manufacturers save on metal when producing frames and windows, making the product cheaper. For load-bearing structures, which include balcony glazing, this option is unacceptable.

For warm glazing, a 5-chamber profile with a thickness of 70 mm is used

Thickness and coating of double-glazed windows

Like metal-plastic profiles, double-glazed windows are classified by the number of chambers: 1-chamber, 2-chamber, 3-chamber, etc. A double-glazed window with one chamber consists of two glasses of 4 mm each, between which there is an air partition 10-16 mm thick. The heat transfer resistance of such a product is 0.32 m²·°C/W, which is not enough to organize warm glazing for a balcony.

To obtain the necessary thermal insulation properties of a window block, at least 2-chamber double-glazed windows with a total thickness of 32-42 mm are used. In addition, the glass must have a special coating designed to reflect thermal radiation generated by heating devices. Such energy-saving glass allows you to increase the overall thermal resistance coefficient of a 2-chamber double-glazed window to 0.9 m² °C/W.

The principle of operation of energy-saving double-glazed windows

Window unit configurations

The frame design and glazing configuration affect reliability, durability, and ease of use. If the length of the balcony or loggia exceeds 3 m, then making a solid frame is impractical for the following reasons:

• A large frame has less rigidity and can therefore deform under external loads.
• A large product is difficult to deliver to the site, lift to the floor and install.
• The coefficient of linear expansion of PVC is 1.5 mm per 1 m. For example, for a 6-meter frame, the difference in the dimensions of the structure in winter and summer will be about 10 mm. This will lead to the appearance of gaps between the beads and problems with opening the sashes.

For large balcony objects, the frame is divided into several separate sections of 2-3 m each. If the apartment is located below the 9th floor, then it is permissible to use a solid 3-meter product, which is lifted using ropes. In the case of a higher location of the object, delivery is possible only by stairs or using an elevator, which forces sections to be made with smaller dimensions.

The number of warm windows on the balcony is determined by the length of the room and its internal arrangement. For a 6-meter loggia, the glazing is divided into 8 equal parts with 2-4 tilt-and-turn sashes. There is no point in making all the doors open:

• firstly, the tightness of the entire block is reduced;
• secondly, open windows increase the load on the frame;
• thirdly, each swing-out flap adds up to 10% to the cost of the product.

Opening windows must be placed in such a way as to be able to service the outer surface of the blind sashes

Rules for fastening the frame

When installing warm glazing on a loggia or balcony, adhere to the following rules:

1. Frames are attached to the side walls and parapet exclusively with anchors with a pitch of 50-60 mm and a recess of 40 mm (concrete) or 60 mm (brick). For ceilings, reinforced mounting plates can be used.
2. The foam seam on the sides of the frame should be 25-40 mm to create a warm junction between the structure and the wall. On top, the thickness of the seam should be at least 30 mm, while the maximum value can reach 140 mm depending on the unevenness of the top plate. The place where the frame is attached to the parapet must also be foamed. If the frame is mounted on a pre-built masonry of foam blocks, the thickness of the seam is 15 mm, if on a standard concrete or brick parapet - 30 mm.
3. It is advisable not to use extensions and expansion profiles around the perimeter of the window unit. Such elements usually come without reinforcement, therefore reducing the rigidity of the structure.
4. Support blocks are installed under each vertical profile (impost), mounting wedges are suitable. If the length of an individual section exceeds 900 mm, then the lining is additionally placed in its middle part.
5. The internal plane of the frame must be on the same axis with the internal plane of the parapet. In this case, it is much easier to provide the necessary insulation of the junction unit.

Warm glazing of the balcony is carried out by a team of installers of 2-3 people

Choosing insulation for internal surfaces

After glazing on the balcony, the internal surfaces are insulated: ceiling, side walls, parapet, floor. Only the back wall, which borders the room, is not subject to thermal insulation.

The rear wall is not specifically insulated for heat exchange between the balcony and the interior living space.

The main criteria in choosing insulation are the dimensions and thermal insulation characteristics of the material. For balcony insulation, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and isolon are mainly used.

Expanded polystyrene foam

It has been used for insulation of construction sites for more than half a century. Containing 98% air, which is located in closed polystyrene cells, the foam has a low mass, so it does not load the insulated structure.

Technical characteristics of polystyrene foam:

• density: 25 kg/m³;
• water absorption in 24 hours: no more than 2%;
• thermal conductivity: 0.038 W/m²°C;

To make a warm balcony, a 50 mm thick sheet of foam plastic is used for the walls and ceiling, the heat transfer resistance of which is 1 m² °C/W. The sheets are secured with special glue or plastic mushrooms, and the joints are treated with polyurethane foam.

Foam plastic is the most affordable insulation for balconies

Read more about the technology of insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Like polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam is made from polystyrene, so the materials are similar in appearance. The difference lies in the production technology. Thanks to the extrusion method, a polymer product with a dense structure is obtained, which increases its strength and thermal insulation properties.

Technical characteristics of extruded polystyrene foam:

• density: 35-45 kg/m³;
• water absorption in 24 hours: no more than 0.2%;
• thermal conductivity: 0.030 W/m²°C;
• operating temperature range: -60 ÷ +80 °C.

When installing extruded polystyrene foam, the insulating layer is thinner compared to using polystyrene foam. It is possible to install sheets 30 mm thick, which have almost the same thermal resistance coefficient as 50 mm polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam allows you to create a uniform insulating contour on the balcony

The “extruder” is dense and easily bears the weight of a person. used for walls, ceilings, and floor insulation without additional sheathing.

How to insulate a loggia with Penopex (modern insulation based on extruded polystyrene foam), watch the video tutorial:

Foamed polyethylene

Elastic polyethylene foam is well known to tourists; rugs for relaxation and overnight stays are made from this material. Even with a small thickness of the coating, foamed polyethylene is an excellent heat insulator. Builders use the material when arranging warm balconies and loggias.

Technical characteristics of foamed polyethylene:

• density: 33 kg/m³;
• water absorption in 24 hours: no more than 3%;
• thermal conductivity: 0.033 W/m²°C;
• operating temperature range: -80 ÷ +95 °C.

The main advantage of polyethylene foam over other insulation materials is its size. Roll material with a thickness of only 10 mm is capable of providing a heat transfer resistance of 0.97 m²·°C/W, this is enough for high-quality surface insulation.

Foamed polyethylene on the balcony saves internal space

Balcony heating with heated floors

Compared to electric convectors and oil radiators, heated floors are a more efficient source of heat. The room is heated from the lowest point, which makes staying in it as comfortable as possible.

When using a heated floor system, heating costs will be lower and efficiency will be higher.

If you have basic construction skills, you can make a heated floor on your balcony with your own hands. First, decide on the type of system and calculate the required power of the heat source.

Methods for implementing heated floors

The heat source in a heated floor system can be:

• Heating cable

Inside the cable are one or two metal strands that heat up under the influence of electric current. The current-carrying conductors are insulated with silicone rubber and polyester film, shielded and reinforced with aluminum foil, so the cable can withstand high mechanical loads. The heating element is placed like a snake in the middle of a kind of “pie”, where a layer of insulation (expanded polystyrene with a density of 35 kg/m³) is placed below, and a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 30 mm is poured on top.

Heated floor pie based on heating cable

• Heating mat

This is the same heating cable, but with a smaller diameter and additionally secured to a 50 cm wide mesh. This option is used if the concrete screed has already been completed and there is no point in raising the floor further. The mat is mounted directly into a layer of tile adhesive or filled with a thin layer of self-leveling floor up to 10 mm thick, on top of which a finishing floor covering is placed.

Heating mat laying diagram

• Infrared film

In this embodiment, the heating element is a thin film with a thickness of only 0.4 mm. The film is divided into separate sections 25 cm long, which can be cut and thus form a covering area. Infrared heated floors on the balcony can be laid in a thin screed under the tiles or mounted directly under the laminate without additional reinforcement.

Design of infrared floor heating system

• Water circuit

A system based on a pipeline with a coolant is used on the balcony less often than an electric heated floor, due to the complexity of installation. It is impossible to make water heated floors in high-rise buildings. She has the right to live in private homes, where it is possible to connect to the heating circuit of a residential premises.

The water circuit is connected to the boiler or the nearest heating radiator

The installation diagram for a water floor is identical to the heating cable installation diagram. The difference is that instead of a cable, a polyethylene or metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16-20 mm is used.

A video educational program from Alexey Zemskov will help you choose the appropriate option:

Heating power calculation

The main parameter of an electric floor heating system is power. This indicator is calculated at the design stage in order to order and install a system with optimal performance characteristics.

Note! Heating mats and infrared films have a fixed power per square meter. The use of a cable allows you to increase or decrease the power density by changing the heater installation pitch.

The power of underfloor heating for a balcony is calculated based on the following coefficients:

• for main heating – 180-220 W/m²;
• for auxiliary heating – 110 W/m².

That is, for a balcony or loggia with an area of ​​5 m², the total power of the cable, mat or film should be 900-1100 W (main heating) or 550 W (auxiliary heating).

Correct calculation of the power of the heating element is an important step towards creating comfortable indoor conditions

Do-it-yourself installation of heated floors on the balcony

When laying heated floors, non-professionals often make typical mistakes, which ultimately lead to a malfunction of the system and, as a result, forced rework of the floor covering. Therefore, when starting installation, it is important to understand what not to do when working with a heating cable, mat or film.

• Do not bend the cable at right angles. All bends should be smooth.
• You cannot lay the cable directly on the insulation, otherwise under the action of the screed it will sink and begin to overheat. You can use a metal mesh as a lining.
• Cable heaters must not be shortened or extended. Infrared films can only be shortened in special cut areas.
• You cannot use a foil lining without a protective film, since the alkaline environment of the solution will quickly destroy it.
• Do not place the temperature sensor in close proximity to the heating cable. It must be equidistant from the cable line.
• You cannot make a heated floor without using a damper tape around the perimeter. When heated, the screed expands, which will lead to cracks if you do not provide the necessary clearance near the wall.

How to properly make a heated floor on a balcony is shown in the following video:

Additional video on the topic

A full range of works - from glazing and insulation to attaching the loggia to the room:

Main insulation mistakes:

Installation of film heated floors on the loggia:

Construction of a warm balcony and loggia is a technologically complex process that includes several key stages. Only trained craftsmen with a sufficient base of knowledge and tools can perform such turnkey work. Therefore, if you lack the necessary experience, and also do not want to spend money on correcting mistakes, entrust the installation of glazing, insulation and floor heating to professionals.

The usual balcony has long ceased to play the role of a terrace for storing vegetables, household items and drying clothes; now it is a functional area that can be successfully used even for the brightest work space. And for this you need very little - to make the appropriate repairs and install heating on the balcony.

Photo 1. Warm and cozy room from the balcony

Photo 2. Office on the balcony

What needs to be provided?

Before you begin installing heating for a balcony or loggia, you need to insulate the room itself. Insulation includes glazing and lining all internal and, if possible, external walls with insulating material. Glazing using double-chamber windows or plastic frames will allow you to reliably retain heat on the balcony; properly installed thermal insulation made of foam plastic or mineral wool will ensure comfortable humidity and air temperature, and thoughtful ventilation will eliminate dampness and condensation.

Photo 3. Insulation of the balcony as the first stage

The most labor-intensive stage is the work of insulating the walls, in particular the floor. But before you insulate the floor, you need to assume which heating option is preferable for your balcony.

Heating options on the balcony

Installing an additional battery. The simplest and most unacceptable heating method for apartment buildings. By extending the heating system to an additional area, we reduce the heat in the heating system as a whole, which will certainly affect the condition of the neighbors' radiators. They will become a little colder. To avoid unnecessary conflicts, you should abandon this method of heating the balcony. Another sad side of this matter is regulation by law. Removing the radiator outside the apartment, including onto the loggia, is prohibited by our legislation.

Photo 4. Installing an additional battery on the balcony

Heater. A convenient and simple way to create a comfortable warm environment on the loggia using a ready-made oil heater or convector. In order to carry out such heating, it is enough to buy an electrical device and install an additional powerful outlet. This method is good if constant heat replenishment is not required.

Photo 5. Heater and convector on the balcony

There are several disadvantages to this type of heating. All electric heaters dry out the air; this especially causes discomfort when staying indoors for a long time and for people who have problems with the nasopharynx and lungs. The second significant reason is the high cost of electricity consumption, as well as the fire hazard, the accessibility of electrical appliances for small children and the constant feeling that the room is full of dust. It is advisable to install purchased heaters if a balcony or other room needs temporary heat supply.

Warm floor system. One of the most economical and affordable heating methods is considered to be a heated floor system. The heating is installed in the floor, thereby not only successfully performing its function of heating the room, but also does not take up much space, is safe, economical and convenient in all respects.

The principle of operation is that the heat from below, due to its physical properties, is easily directed upward, thereby uniformly heating the entire area. A pleasant, comfortable temperature is established on the balcony, and the air does not dry out or overheat. In the loggia room, you can install two types of heated floors: electric and water.

Photo 6. Heated floor system

Water heated floor

A water heater can be made from flexible plastic pipes. They are laid in a snake pattern around the entire perimeter of the balcony. In order for the floor to heat up evenly, the pipe bends must be located at the same level and close to each other, throughout the entire floor. The pipes are connected to a common hot water supply system; before final installation, they must be checked under pressure to ensure a uniform water supply.

Photo 7. Water-heated floor on the balcony

Before underfloor heating, you need to get rid of old coatings, clean the concrete as much as possible from roughness and unevenness, and make the first layer as even as possible. To prevent heat from being lost and absorbed into the cold concrete wall, a thermal insulation material is laid on top of the concrete as the first layer. The prepared pipe is evenly distributed onto the insulation, and a concrete screed is placed on it. The work is completed with a decorative coating.

The pipes must be selected quite carefully (this is not a reason to save money), because the heating on the loggia, under the reliable protection of the upper layers of the floor, should last quite a long time and, preferably, without interruption. This type of heating is not so easy to do; the complexity of installation forces many to turn to another method - an electrical installation.

Electric heated floor

Photo 8. Electric heated floor on the balcony

The main role in the form of a heating device is played by the electric cable. Before installing electric heating in the room, you need to prepare the base of the floor on the loggia, remove all the old covering, clean the concrete to a smooth state, and level out all the unevenness. On the prepared base you need to make a cement-sand screed. Its height should exceed 3 cm.

The next layer is a layer of insulation. Here it is necessary to take into account the possibility of the formation of condensation, that is, water. The temperature difference between the walls of the floor, the external and internal environment leads to uneven distribution of heat, the formation of cold bridges, as a result of condensation and dampness. To avoid this, install insulation with a vapor barrier. It is not recommended to use mineral wool here. Fireproof insulation, for example, polystyrene foam, is laid on the prepared concrete floor. A vapor barrier in the form of polyethylene is laid on top of the insulation and secured with construction tape. Actually, the cable layer itself, which is secured with an additional tie. After this, the entire system must dry thoroughly for several weeks, and only then can you proceed to laying the final coating.

The final stage consists of laying the decorative surface. It is not recommended to make a wooden covering; it significantly reduces the efficiency of any heated floor. It is acceptable to use tiles or ceramic tiles with good thermal conductivity.

An insulated balcony can almost instantly turn into a comfortable room, in demand by all family members - it can be designed as a comfortable office, a playroom, or a relaxation corner. Flower lovers can turn a warm loggia into a mini-garden or even a vegetable garden, where you can grow a decent crop in winter. By adding a balcony or loggia, you can significantly increase the area of ​​the room. However, before transforming the balcony into a comfortable and functional resting place, it should be insulated and the interior should be refined.

There are various ways to insulate a balcony. On an open-type balcony, a parapet and side walls are installed using ceramic bricks or foam blocks, then glazing is performed. This will help to slightly increase the temperature on the balcony, as well as protect it from dust and noise from the street. The installation of thermal insulation and “warm floor” systems will help make your balcony truly warm and cozy.

In order to equip a warm balcony, it is necessary to perform a certain set of works, each stage of which has a special significance, including:

• laying thermal insulation;
• installation of a “warm floor” system;
• purchase of heating devices.

Before insulating a balcony, you should decide on the choice of materials and tools. Today the market offers a wide selection of insulation materials, limited only by personal preferences and the volume of the room. Some of the most popular options include:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony with penoplex

Wall insulation

Modern thermal insulation materials provide a high degree of protection of walls from the cold, and if the technology for insulating balconies is fully followed, turning a balcony into a comfortable and warm room is quite possible. As reliable and effective insulation materials, it is recommended to use isolon, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, penoplex, penofol, as well as the already familiar lining and siding. Although all these materials differ significantly in thickness and structure, the installation methods are similar to each other.

• Insulation with siding. The first step is to stretch and fasten the wind barrier rolled into a roll using a stapler. This operation is performed simultaneously with the installation of siding. The wind barrier is directly adjacent to the walls of the loggia, preventing the penetration of cold air. Next, a frame of slats is attached, between the sections of which roll insulation (mineral wool) or polystyrene foam is laid. Mineral wool is easy to install; its edges do not protrude beyond the outer plane, without interfering with the fastening of plastic or plasterboard panels. At the same time, when laying mineral wool, you should be careful: you need to work in gloves and a respirator, wear clothes that cover your hands and the whole body from small particles of insulation.
• Insulation with foam panels. Methods for insulating a loggia using polystyrene foam are quite simple: fixed foam plastic slabs are laid tightly next to each other, and polyurethane foam is blown into the joints. Flat pieces of polystyrene foam are placed into the wide cracks, and they are also fixed with polyurethane foam.

The laid layer of mineral wool or polystyrene foam is covered with cellophane film, securing it at the joints with an overlapping stapler, and plasterboard, PVC or IMF panels are placed on top. The film can be purchased at the Gidrobarrier store. If you plan to insulate the balcony under plaster, a fine reinforcing mesh is attached on top of the film.

Floor insulation

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are also used for floor insulation. If this is not enough, you can install a “warm floor” system.

• A wooden floor made of well-treated boards, coated with shiny or matte varnish, looks comfortable and stylish on the balcony. The boards are laid on wooden logs and secured to them with screws. To install logs, the floor surface is completely cleared of the previous coating. Mineral wool is laid between the joists to retain heat or polystyrene foam is laid.

OSB boards can be laid on top of the boards and coated with varnish. If necessary, you can lay linoleum, carpet or carpet on top.

Balcony insulation with penoplex

• When leveling the floor of a balcony or loggia with a concrete screed, after it hardens, 20 mm high-density (35th) density foam is laid, on which 10 mm thick OSB slabs are then laid. In this way, a reliable one is also created, protecting the room from the penetration of cold air.
• “Heated floors” systems are recognized as the most effective insulating agent, which at the same time is the most expensive option.

Roof insulation

It is most convenient to insulate with foam plastic - this is facilitated by its lightness and sufficient rigidity during installation, as well as excellent thermal insulation qualities. If there is a balcony slab on top as the ceiling, the ceiling may not be insulated, but a decision should be made only after assessing the specific conditions.

• Insulation with foam plastic. Aluminum-galvanized corrugated sheeting is most often used for roofing. A metal or wooden frame is installed underneath it to attach 55 mm thick foam insulation. Lastly, MDF, PVC or plasterboard panels are attached. Only with insulation can a roof made of corrugated sheets protect the balcony from the effects of cold weather.

The width of such a frame is about 1 meter; both layers of insulation and bottom panels can be conveniently mounted on it. In order for the sheets of polystyrene foam to fit tightly in the grooves intended for them, they are cut out to be slightly larger (several mm) in size. This contributes to a more dense arrangement of the insulation without additional fasteners. All remaining cracks remaining after assembling all the parts are filled with foam.

• Insulation with mineral wool. The most suitable option is mineral wool with foil attached to one side. Foil-coated mineral wool has high thermal insulation and energy-saving properties - the foil layer prevents heat from escaping from inside the room, while simultaneously preventing the penetration of cold air from the street.

Insulation of the ceiling on the balcony with mineral wool

In order for the material to be firmly held on the ceiling, a frame of 50x20 mm wooden slats is required, the same as for cladding balcony railings. When screwing the slats, you don’t have to adhere to a certain order - this will help to better hold the insulating material.

The main thing is to ensure that the distance between the slats is sufficient and that the mineral wool layer does not protrude beyond the slats.

Finishing work

To avoid the appearance of condensation between the insulation and wall cladding, it is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the layers of insulation and cladding. The following are used as vapor barrier reflective materials:

• special films made of polyethylene;
• single-layer and multi-layer membranes, single- and double-sided.

DIY balcony vapor barrier

Water vapor generated during the operation of the room enters the vapor barrier film, remains on it and quickly evaporates. In the absence of a vapor barrier layer, evaporation penetrates directly into the insulation, remaining in it for a long time and leading to a gradual deterioration of its properties and damage due to the occurrence of fungus and mold.

How to install “warm floors”

When choosing an option for installing “warm floors”, you can be guided by your own preferences and capabilities. The main selection criteria are:

• system installation cost:
• the cost of its operation.

The main options for “warm floors” are the following systems:

• water;
• electrical;
• heating mats.

For water heating, it is enough to lay a flexible pipeline of the appropriate diameter in the floor, connecting it to the heating or hot water supply system, doing this with the permission of the organization operating the house.

For electric heating, a special electric heating cable of a certain power is laid in the floor. The organization of work provides for unconditional compliance with electrical safety requirements when laying cables and further operation of “warm floors”. The order and features of installation, power and length of the cable are determined by calculations in accordance with the instructions.

The easiest to install are heating mats that are laid directly on the screed and covered with a finishing floor covering.

How to install an electric floor heating system

Calculations for the preparation and installation of the heating cable are carried out in accordance with many parameters, including taking into account the desired air temperature in the room, its dimensions, etc. The cable is laid around the perimeter of the balcony (if its dimensions are small), or along the balcony in the form of a “snake” , with a certain step between parallel sections. Laying it along the length of the balcony allows you to reduce the number of cable bends.

When laying the cable to the floor, a mounting tape is used, which is fixed to the floor. The mounting tape contains special brackets-petals, in which each turn of the cable is fixed. The ability to turn on and regulate the supply of electricity to the heated floor is carried out by means of a thermostat connected to a cable and attached to the wall of the balcony at a convenient height. After completing the above work, the functionality of the system is checked, after which the floor is screeded. The flooring must have a high degree of thermal conductivity to transfer the maximum amount of heat into the room.

Installing heated floors on the balcony

How to choose heating devices for an insulated balcony or loggia

If the balcony was insulated with the aim of converting it into a living space, all stages of the work should be carried out sequentially. In this case, of course, it will be difficult to do without heating devices. The most suitable option for heating devices are convectors, which are quite economical to operate and can create a constant temperature in the room. In combination with an adjustable underfloor heating system, convectors will provide all the conditions for comfortable living in a newly created living space.

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