Where to start plastering walls. Before and after: how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner, video and step-by-step guide. The most important stage of finishing work: preparing walls for plastering

Where to start plastering walls.  Before and after: how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner, video and step-by-step guide.  The most important stage of finishing work: preparing walls for plastering
Where to start plastering walls. Before and after: how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner, video and step-by-step guide. The most important stage of finishing work: preparing walls for plastering

How and with what to plaster walls and is it necessary to do it at all? This question is faced by everyone who makes repairs or builds a house. However, this is a very important and responsible stage of finishing work, the quality of which will determine the structure covered with plaster and the frequency of its repair. Whether you entrust the work to specialists or do the finishing yourself depends on your capabilities and time; more and more often, the owners of the premises take on the task themselves. So what is the best way to plaster walls?

Types and forms of plaster mixtures

The construction market offers a wide range of dry and ready-made mixtures for finishing work. The advantage of ready-made solutions is convenience - you don’t need to mix anything, you open the package and start working. But such material will cost more than the most common dry mixtures, which must be prepared independently. All packages of the semi-finished product contain detailed instructions for preparing the working mixture; this process is not difficult, even an inexperienced user can handle it.

Based on the material, plasters are divided into 2 main groups: cement and gypsum. Cement and cement-sand mortars are used for plastering external walls, facades, and industrial premises. Gypsum is great for interior decoration.

Types by quality

  • Simple. It is applied in several layers in rooms that do not require additional finishing. These are mainly cement and cement-sand mortars.
  • Improved. Used for finishing residential, office and public premises. This is applied using a special technology in several stages; the composition of this mixture includes substances that improve the quality of the coating.
  • High quality. As a rule, these are dry or ready-made decorative plaster compositions for the finishing smallest fraction using color and/or texture inclusions.

In modern finishing, a combined wall coating is used, when a base of cement-sand composition is applied to a wall lined with bricks or blocks to level the surface, and thinner gypsum plaster is laid on top of it for wallpaper or high-quality decorative as a finishing coating.

Do I need to plaster the walls?

There are many ways to give your walls and room a neat and well-groomed look. If the walls in the room are smooth and do not require leveling, as, for example, you can do without major plastering, and just limit yourself to puttying and/or priming for wallpaper or painting.

Facades can also be finished in other ways (cladding with facade bricks or installing ventilated systems: panels, tiles on profiles). If the walls were previously plastered, assess the condition of the coating. In old houses, the plaster layer is removed completely or in fragments and a new layer is applied, sometimes a cement-sand mixture of small thickness is applied on top to update and level the surface for painting.

Who to entrust plastering work to?

Since using the services of professionals is not cheap (from 500 rubles/sq. m for cement plaster and from 300 rubles/sq. m for gypsum plaster), we plaster the walls with our own hands, if time permits. Plus, it will help you maintain your budget.

Stages of work

First, we determine which mortar it is more rational to plaster the walls in a particular case:

  • For facades and external walls, it is advisable to use cement and cement-sand mortars. After hardening, such surfaces withstand the harmful external influences of rain, high temperature changes, snow, and mechanical shocks. Often plastered walls are covered with facade paints, then the building becomes neat and elegant, but here it is important to choose high-quality paint that will also be resistant to external influences.
  • Compositions made from cement and sand are also suitable for interior decoration. If the premises are industrial, then the plastered walls are not subjected to additional finishing.

Walls in apartments and office premises are covered with cement-sand mortar at the stage of construction or major renovation, when it is necessary to hide large irregularities that arise from uneven laying of blocks or bricks. As a rule, such a coating serves as the basis for:

  • Insulation of walls, corners.
  • Further filling with gypsum compounds.
  • Wallpapering.

We figured out what is the best way to plaster walls in specific conditions.

Preparation of material and tools

Before starting work, you need to stock up on the necessary set of tools and materials so that there are no difficulties or hiccups during the work. To work you will need:

  • Dry mixture and water or ready-made solution.
  • Drill with a mixer attachment for mixing the mixture.
  • Measurement for water and steelyard.
  • Plaster mesh to ensure rigidity of a thick layer (in basements, facades).
  • Dowels, self-tapping screws for fixing the mesh to the wall.
  • Beacons (special profiles for even application of mortar over the entire plane of the wall).
  • Metal scissors for cutting mesh and beacons.
  • Tape measure for accurately measuring the sizes and distances between beacons.
  • Bubble level and plumb line with thread.
  • A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels.
  • Construction pencil (thickened) for marking.
  • Trowel for throwing mortar onto the wall (for manual application).
  • Rule for leveling the bulk of the solution between the beacons.
  • Set of spatulas for leveling plaster.
  • A trowel for leveling the cement-sand finishing layer.
  • Gloves to protect hands.
  • Clock to track the time between mixing and setting of the solution.

Preparing the work surface

Once you have decided what to plaster the walls with, you should begin preparing the walls for the work process. Before starting work, the wall must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, foreign and protruding elements. If the surface turns out to be flat and smooth, you need to make notches for better adhesion of the mortar to the wall.

Fastening the plaster mesh

In basements, where additional insulation and the application of a thick layer are necessary, a plaster mesh is attached to the primed base. It prevents the formation of cracks when the building shrinks and prevents the mortar from spreading.

There are several ways to attach the mesh to the wall, but the most accessible for home use is this: the dowels are connected with wire in a Z-shape, this ensures the tightest fit to the work surface. Dowel-nails are fixed in increments of about 15 cm. Fastening is done from the bottom up.

In addition, the mesh is fixed using finely cut pieces of a metal beacon: profile fragments 2 cm long are screwed to the mesh with self-tapping screws. In this case, the beacon trimmings serve as substitutes for dowel-nails.

Display of beacons

This procedure will ensure uniform application of the solution over the entire surface of the wall.

The distance between adjacent beacons should be several centimeters less than the length of the rule.

Marking begins from the corner at a distance of 15-20 cm. Holes for dowels are made on the drawn vertical line. Next, using a level or plumb line, place the dowels on the self-tapping screws in one plane so that the wall turns out smooth without any differences.

Next, a small amount of solution is applied to the lines between the fasteners to fix the beacons, then, by pressing, the beacon is usually installed in the caps of the screws. The protruding solution is smeared or removed. After installing several beacons, check the evenness of the installation. After a few hours, the wall is ready for plastering.

Wall plastering technology

Let's look at how to plaster walls with cement mortar. Prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package. To do this, we use a steelyard and a water measure to accurately maintain the proportions of substances. Mixing is done with a drill and mixer.

We plaster the walls along the beacons like this: using a trowel, we spread the mortar onto the wall evenly over the entire plane and use the rule to level it. Using spatulas we correct minor unevenness. If it is necessary to apply a large layer of mortar, it is necessary to do this in several stages in thinner layers, otherwise the thick layer being laid will fall off or drain.

If no further finishing is expected, it is advisable to grout. To do this, the same solution is diluted with water to a creamy state, applied to dried plaster and rubbed using a trowel.

If subsequent finishing is intended (puttying or immediately gluing wallpaper), the dried plastered surface is cleaned with sandpaper to remove possible unevenness and marks from spatulas and primed with special compounds.

The given technology describes how to plaster walls with cement-sand mortar. Other types of plaster coatings are applied in a similar way.

Gypsum plasters

Now let's look at how to plaster a wall with gypsum-based plaster.

Unlike cement mortar, gypsum plaster is more often used as a finishing layer in finishing, since it has a finer fraction and gives the walls a smooth, well-groomed appearance; it can be colored and textured.

Gypsum plaster can also be applied as a base for further finishing directly onto the laid wall. In this case, the application technology remains the same: cleaning the surface, priming, setting beacons, applying the solution. Gypsum compositions are easier to apply than cement ones, and this work is easy to handle. Basically, gypsum plasters are sold in the form of dry mixtures; preparing the working composition should not cause difficulties - detailed instructions are included everywhere.

More often, gypsum plasters are used to thinly putty the cement-sand layer, having previously primed it.

We also plaster the walls with our own hands using decorative compounds. Especially if you want to give your walls a unique design. There are special plastic compositions with which you can apply a variety of textures and patterns.

The choice is yours

How to plaster the walls is everyone’s personal choice. The most important thing when choosing a material is to take into account the conditions in which it will have to serve, so that there are no problems during operation. As you can see, cement mortars are universal and can be used anywhere, but for interior decoration they often require additional coating. Walls with cement-sand cladding are guaranteed to withstand various suspended structures. Gypsum plaster will give your wall a neat, smoother look and is easier to apply, but if it is chosen as the base layer, it may be difficult to hang cabinets due to the softness of the gypsum, although it will hold up well to the painting.

In any case, the plastered surface always lasts a long time; this method of finishing any walls and rooms is the simplest and most versatile. How to plaster the walls - choose wisely!

Each renovation begins with preparing the walls for finishing. In order to bring them into a perfectly smooth state, two types of plaster are used - “dry” and “wet”. The first option involves covering the walls with plasterboard and other similar materials. The technology of surface cladding using the “dry” method is described in the article “”.

The “wet” method of finishing walls involves the use of plaster mixtures. Despite the fact that it is quite labor-intensive, the classic method of wall finishing is used very often.

Do I need to plaster the walls?

The main purpose of plaster is to level the walls. But besides this, it protects them from moisture penetration and, accordingly, extends the service life of building materials. The availability of all plaster components and tools for carrying out the work allows you to do it yourself. To do this, it is enough to know the basic principles of plastering walls and the procedure for doing this.

The best way to plaster walls - choice of material

Our market offers a large selection of ready-to-use mixtures. They are quite expensive, but have certain advantages.

  • Silicone plaster is a universal material, the most expensive of such mixtures. It is easy to clean, flexible and durable.
  • Acrylic plaster is a ready-made mixture based on synthetic resins. It also has high elasticity and low absorption. Disadvantages: worse vapor permeability compared to mineral mixtures and sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.

  • Mineral plaster - used for work both inside and outside the building. It is resistant to sunlight, has strength and high vapor permeability. Consists of mineral fillers, cement and additives. This mixture is perfect for rooms with high humidity and walls made of materials with high vapor permeability - such as cellular concrete. Mineral plaster also includes silicate plaster, the binding material of which is liquid glass.

Despite the advantages of thin-layer plasters, cement-sand, lime and gypsum mixtures are still the most popular. This is due to the availability of the material and its qualities. Such mixtures are sold ready-made or made independently.

  • The cement-sand mixture is considered the most durable and at the same time cheapest. This plaster is not afraid of moisture and is suitable for leveling any walls, including those with significant defects or poor-quality masonry. The disadvantage is low plasticity, so a plasticizer is added to the finished mixtures. Mortar proportions: 1:3 (cement and sand, respectively).

The cement mortar is used within an hour after preparation.

  • Lime plaster has good ductility, but is inferior in strength to the previous option. There are several types of this mixture:
    • cement-lime: 1:1:4 (cement, lime, sand);
    • limestone: 1:3 (lime, sand);
    • gypsum-lime: 1:3 (dry gypsum, lime dough).

The gypsum mixture is easy to use and creates a very smooth surface. It is resistant to cracking and has good vapor permeability. The gypsum-based material is plastic, conveniently applied to the surface and hardens quickly. That is why it is prepared in small portions and used immediately.

We plaster the walls ourselves - tools for the job

  • Container for solution.
  • Metal profile for the installation of beacons.

  • A scraper is a trapezoidal metal spatula.
  • Falcon - wooden or metal shield.
  • Trowel is a heart-shaped blade.
  • Grater and grater.
  • Wire brush – for cleaning the surface.
  • Master OK.
  • Rules.
  • Plumb.
  • Level.

We plaster the walls with our own hands

Preparing the premises

Preparing the premises includes actions aimed at protecting the environment from damage. All things are taken out of it, and the furniture is moved to the middle and covered with film.

The floor covering should also be protected from contact with the solution. It is covered with film or covered with a layer of sawdust. Chandeliers and lamps are removed and the wires are insulated.

Cleaning and preparing walls

The next step will be preparing the walls themselves:

  • If they are covered with wallpaper, they are soaked in water and then removed or cleaned with a scraper.

  • Any old coating, be it paint, whitewash or crumbling plaster, must be completely removed. Otherwise, the new layer may move away from the wall.
  • To check the strength of old plaster, tap the surface with a hammer. If at the same time a dull sound is heard, the coating fits tightly; if it is loud, then this place is cleaned.
  • Small cracks are opened with a knife; for large chips, a grinder is used.

  • Then they are filled with mortar and glued with a plaster mesh.
  • The preparation of various surfaces for plastering has its own characteristics. On walls made of concrete, stone or brick, a chisel or ax is used to make a beating, the depth of which is approximately 10 mm. Thanks to this, the plaster will adhere more securely to the surface.

  • How to properly plaster wooden walls? Such a surface requires special preparation. In order for the plaster to adhere tightly, a mesh of shingles is stuffed onto the surface. In this case, the nails are driven halfway, and the rest of them are bent. Instead of shingles, it is possible to use metal mesh.

Primer of walls

After the procedures are completed, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt and primed. Some craftsmen skip this stage, considering it unimportant, and use water, especially when working with cement-sand mixtures. But the primer, penetrating into the thickness of the concrete, increases the adhesion of the surface and protects it from dampness. It stabilizes the porosity of the base and allows the plaster to be applied evenly.

Depending on the surface material, Concrete Contact, Grundirmittel or Super Contact Ground are used. Antiseptic impregnation is used for wood. The primer is applied with a brush or roller in one or two layers, depending on the degree of absorption of the wall.

How to plaster the walls of a house - setting up beacons

  • Using a level, the verticality of the surface is checked.
  • Screws are screwed in at the bottom and top of the wall or dowels are driven in.

  • A fishing line is tied to the screws and aligned vertically.
  • A horizontal line is stretched in the same way; 4 lines will be enough for a wall 3 m high.
  • Slides of solution are formed vertically under the fishing line.
  • The profile is pressed into the mixture until it comes into light contact with the fishing line.

  • Horizontal beacons are set in the same way.
  • The resulting mesh is checked with a level to ensure it is in the same plane.

Preparation of the solution

When preparing the solution yourself, take into account the layer for which it is intended:

  • 1st layer - spray. For this, the solution should have a creamy consistency. The maximum layer thickness is 5 mm for a concrete or brick base and 9 mm for wooden walls.
  • 2nd layer (up to 10 mm) – primer. A dough-like solution is prepared.
  • 3rd layer – covering. A solution with fine-grained sand, creamy consistency.

When using the ready-made mixture, you should carefully study the instructions printed on the packaging and act in full accordance with them.

How to plaster walls - apply the solution

  1. A trowel is used to apply the first layer of plaster. A small amount of solution is applied to it and it is sprayed onto the wall. The swing of the hand should be sharp, but not too sweeping and strong, otherwise the prepared mixture will fall not only on the wall, but also on everything that surrounds it.

How to plaster walls, video:

  1. The primer is applied over the spray using a grater or wide spatula. Depending on its thickness, the work is carried out in one or several “passes”. The last layer is equal to the beacon rule.

  1. A layer of covering is applied on top of the wet soil.

How to learn to plaster walls - final work

  • Removing beacons and filling grooves with a solution.

  • Leveling - using a spatula, carefully smooth out all the depressions and bumps in the wet mortar.
  • Grouting - performed in a circular motion in a spiral. The plane of the grater is pressed tightly against the surface.

  • Clean grout. Performed with a sponge or felt grater.

How to plaster walls correctly, video:

  • The porous base is primed twice.
  • Gypsum plaster is finally smoothed no later than 4 hours after application.
  • Metal beacons must be removed after applying the last layer.
  • If the surface is being prepared for finishing with ceramic tiles, then one layer of plaster is enough and it is not smoothed over.
  • The walls are painted two weeks after completion of work when using gypsum mortar and after 30 days when using cement-lime plaster.

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Plastering walls with your own hands is the most common way to level surfaces and prepare walls for subsequent work. This technology is very versatile, suitable for working with both flat planes and surfaces with obvious depressions, cracks or bumps. Plaster can eliminate any defects and curvature. In addition, it is an additional protective layer against external influences: excessive humidity, ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes.

The classic technology of surfaces is the use of beacons to define the desired plane. But sometimes this procedure is skipped. This happens in cases where a perfectly flat surface of the walls is not important.


Thus, we can highlight the differences between the two technologies:

  • When placing beacons you use more material because you need a thicker layer of plaster. We can say that when using the second technology you save significantly.
  • Placing beacons will require more time from you, that is, the second method of plastering walls is less time-consuming. You don’t have to measure and place beacons, or wait for them to dry completely before continuing work.
  • If you decide not to bother placing beacons, know that you will not achieve perfectly smooth and even walls. Do-it-yourself plastering of walls without beacons is shown in the video below.

We will consider in detail two methods of plastering walls: with and without beacons.

What materials do we need?

The overall result will depend on what material you choose. Therefore, it is important to determine for which walls you will use plaster so that the layer lasts well and for a long time. Main types:

  • Brick walls. For such coatings, mixtures based on cement, lime and gypsum are suitable.
  • Concrete surfaces. Here it is better to use solutions based on cement and gypsum.
  • Walls made of wood. For such a surface, lime-gypsum mixtures or clay-based mixtures are used.

A material such as cement is used in plaster compositions, finishing rooms with high humidity or damp plinths. Lime mixtures are suitable for walls that are not exposed to moisture. Cement-lime composition is used to treat the external surfaces of buildings. For dry rooms, lime-gypsum, clay or gypsum solutions are used.

When finishing the walls with plaster with your own hands, do not forget that all mixtures, except gypsum binder, can be diluted with reserve and in large quantities. Most often, a concrete mixer is used for this, while a construction drill with a special mixer attachment is used to prepare gypsum-based solutions. It is better to use this solution immediately in the next 20-25 minutes, until it dries and hardens. If the plaster in the container has already set and you haven’t had time to use it all, you shouldn’t mix it again. This will only reduce the strength of the texture, so it makes sense to prepare a new solution.

Storage of compositions based on clay or lime is possible for several days by covering the container with a damp cloth. Before starting work, you will only need to mix the plaster (possibly adding water if necessary) and apply it to the walls.

If you are preparing a cement composition, make sure it is clean. Sand and cement should be sifted through a sieve to remove traces of debris and dirt. Do-it-yourself cement plaster on walls is shown in the video below.

Tools

The choice of tools for work must be approached with special care. The type and quantity of tools will depend on your professionalism and construction skills.


Also make sure that you have household appliances in the form of stepladders, tables. The main thing is that they must be stable.

Plastering without placing beacons

Where is it most common to level walls with plaster without using beacons? This method is suitable in buildings intended for household purposes, as well as on small internal walls. Even if there is no emphasis on aesthetics in the premises, this does not mean that plastering needs to be done in any form. To create a certain geometry and simplify the work, devices such as:

  • Husks are templates for internal corners.
  • Malka - this template is needed when working with window slopes and doorways.
  • Usenok is a template used to work with external corners.

Plastering walls with your own hands without beacons takes place in several stages. First we will look at the stage of preparing the walls for finishing. Let's start preparing the surface:


Now let's start drawing landmarks

  • Using a ladle, draw several horizontal lines (top, bottom and exactly in the middle).
  • You need to remove excess from these lines using a trowel. Thus, we are, as it were, constructing something like lighthouses, only from a mixture.
  • We wait for the material to dry completely.

We begin to level with plaster

  • All areas between the landmarks must be filled with plaster. We use the rule, following the guidelines made. This way we will get a smooth surface and get rid of excess mortar on the wall. We work as a rule only with a slightly set solution.
  • After leveling, let the mixture dry, then correct holes and small cracks by troweling the wall with a trowel.
  • We should have smooth walls, ready for finishing before finishing.

Plastering with display of beacons

This method of plastering walls is more effective, since as a result we get smoother and even walls. We will need the beacons themselves; it is better to use T-shaped ones made of metal. The work process is also divided into several stages, the first of which will be the preparation of the walls. We'll tell you how to plaster walls using beacons with your own hands for a beginner:


Let's start placing beacons

We will describe the process of how to properly plaster walls under a lighthouse with your own hands


Now you have become familiar with the nuances of the process of plastering walls with and without beacons. You can carry out the work yourself without involving professionals. Carefully follow the instructions in the video and rely on the experience and recommendations of professionals.

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Plastering walls with your own hands is the most common way to level surfaces and prepare walls for subsequent work. This technology is very versatile, suitable for working with both flat planes and surfaces with obvious depressions, cracks or bumps. Plaster can eliminate any defects and curvature. In addition, it is an additional protective layer against external influences: excessive humidity, ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes.

The classic technology of surfaces is the use of beacons to define the desired plane. But sometimes this procedure is skipped. This happens in cases where a perfectly flat surface of the walls is not important.


Thus, we can highlight the differences between the two technologies:

  • When placing beacons you use more material because you need a thicker layer of plaster. We can say that when using the second technology you save significantly.
  • Placing beacons will require more time from you, that is, the second method of plastering walls is less time-consuming. You don’t have to measure and place beacons, or wait for them to dry completely before continuing work.
  • If you decide not to bother placing beacons, know that you will not achieve perfectly smooth and even walls. Do-it-yourself plastering of walls without beacons is shown in the video below.

We will consider in detail two methods of plastering walls: with and without beacons.

What materials do we need?

The overall result will depend on what material you choose. Therefore, it is important to determine for which walls you will use plaster so that the layer lasts well and for a long time. Main types:

  • Brick walls. For such coatings, mixtures based on cement, lime and gypsum are suitable.
  • Concrete surfaces. Here it is better to use solutions based on cement and gypsum.
  • Walls made of wood. For such a surface, lime-gypsum mixtures or clay-based mixtures are used.

A material such as cement is used in plaster compositions, finishing rooms with high humidity or damp plinths. Lime mixtures are suitable for walls that are not exposed to moisture. Cement-lime composition is used to treat the external surfaces of buildings. For dry rooms, lime-gypsum, clay or gypsum solutions are used.

When finishing the walls with plaster with your own hands, do not forget that all mixtures, except gypsum binder, can be diluted with reserve and in large quantities. Most often, a concrete mixer is used for this, while a construction drill with a special mixer attachment is used to prepare gypsum-based solutions. It is better to use this solution immediately in the next 20-25 minutes, until it dries and hardens. If the plaster in the container has already set and you haven’t had time to use it all, you shouldn’t mix it again. This will only reduce the strength of the texture, so it makes sense to prepare a new solution.

Storage of compositions based on clay or lime is possible for several days by covering the container with a damp cloth. Before starting work, you will only need to mix the plaster (possibly adding water if necessary) and apply it to the walls.

If you are preparing a cement composition, make sure it is clean. Sand and cement should be sifted through a sieve to remove traces of debris and dirt. Do-it-yourself cement plaster on walls is shown in the video below.

Tools

The choice of tools for work must be approached with special care. The type and quantity of tools will depend on your professionalism and construction skills.


Also make sure that you have household appliances in the form of stepladders, tables. The main thing is that they must be stable.

Plastering without placing beacons

Where is it most common to level walls with plaster without using beacons? This method is suitable in buildings intended for household purposes, as well as on small internal walls. Even if there is no emphasis on aesthetics in the premises, this does not mean that plastering needs to be done in any form. To create a certain geometry and simplify the work, devices such as:

  • Husks are templates for internal corners.
  • Malka - this template is needed when working with window slopes and doorways.
  • Usenok is a template used to work with external corners.

Plastering walls with your own hands without beacons takes place in several stages. First we will look at the stage of preparing the walls for finishing. Let's start preparing the surface:


Now let's start drawing landmarks

  • Using a ladle, draw several horizontal lines (top, bottom and exactly in the middle).
  • You need to remove excess from these lines using a trowel. Thus, we are, as it were, constructing something like lighthouses, only from a mixture.
  • We wait for the material to dry completely.

We begin to level with plaster

  • All areas between the landmarks must be filled with plaster. We use the rule, following the guidelines made. This way we will get a smooth surface and get rid of excess mortar on the wall. We work as a rule only with a slightly set solution.
  • After leveling, let the mixture dry, then correct holes and small cracks by troweling the wall with a trowel.
  • We should have smooth walls, ready for finishing before finishing.

Plastering with display of beacons

This method of plastering walls is more effective, since as a result we get smoother and even walls. We will need the beacons themselves; it is better to use T-shaped ones made of metal. The work process is also divided into several stages, the first of which will be the preparation of the walls. We'll tell you how to plaster walls using beacons with your own hands for a beginner:


Let's start placing beacons

We will describe the process of how to properly plaster walls under a lighthouse with your own hands


Now you have become familiar with the nuances of the process of plastering walls with and without beacons. You can carry out the work yourself without involving professionals. Carefully follow the instructions in the video and rely on the experience and recommendations of professionals.

Well-plastered walls always look very aesthetically pleasing and neat, but to achieve such results you need to do quite labor-intensive work.

Plastering walls with your own hands can be done if a novice master thoroughly studies how this process is carried out, understands what is needed to carry it out, and understands the basics of the technology of such work.

However, in order to perform high-quality plastering of walls, not only theoretical knowledge is important, but also at least a little practice in this work. Therefore, if you have no experience in plastering “manipulations,” you first need to try your hand at a small section of the wall. By doing this kind of training, you can at least get a little better at sketching and leveling it out.

This experience will be useful not only to owners of private houses, but also to owners of apartments in high-rise buildings, since, unfortunately, even in panel houses the walls often need quite serious leveling.

Material for applying plaster

The plaster mixture for finishing walls is selected depending on what the walls of the building are made of. In addition, the conditions where there will be work is being carried out- indoors or outside a building.


Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Brick walls

  • Brick walls are usually plastered with cement-based mixtures, sometimes with a small addition of lime to give additional plasticity. Lime is also added if work is carried out indoors with high humidity or outside the building.

  • A layer of plaster is applied to the brick walls, which should not exceed 30 mm. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that if the thickness of the coating is more than 20 mm, then a chain-link mesh must be attached to the wall under the plaster to reinforce and hold the mixture on the surface.
  • based on cement, you need to take ingredients based on the proportions of 1 part cement and 3 ÷ 4 parts sifted clean sand. These starting materials are mixed with water to a thick consistency, but it is also taken into account that the mixture must be plastic.
  • If a cement-lime mixture is being made, then you will need 1 part cement, 1 ÷ 2 lime paste and 5 ÷ 7 parts sand. First, sand is mixed with cement, then lime diluted to the consistency of milk is added to the dry mixture, and everything is mixed together until smooth. If the composition is too thick, it is allowed (although not recommended) to add a small amount of water.
  • If facing brick is fixed to the walls, it will be more difficult to plaster it due to the fact that it has a smooth surface. It is likely that the mixture will roll off the wall or even fall off in pieces - sometimes even reinforcing mesh does not help in such a situation. Therefore, such a surface requires special professional primers and properly selected reinforcing mesh. It is better to entrust this work to qualified specialists who know which materials will be optimal for a particular surface and are fluent in the technology of applying them to “complex” surfaces.

Concrete wall

  • If the concrete surface is smooth, then it must be prepared using a primer with the addition of quartz inclusions, which will give the wall the roughness required to reliably hold the plaster. Added to the cement mortar for the wall gypsum powder, which significantly enhances the adhesion of the mixture to the wall.

  • In addition, a lime-gypsum solution is often used for such a surface, where proportions of 3 ÷ 4 parts lime and 1 part gypsum are applicable. The process of preparing such a mixture takes place in the following order: gypsum is quickly mixed with water - the mass should not be too thick, lime mortar is poured into it, and then everything is kneaded until smooth.
  • If the concrete wall has roughness, then it will not require complex preparation, a special approach or special compositions, since traditional cement or gypsum plaster mortars are suitable for it. However, before applying the plaster to the wall, it is recommended to impregnate it with the deep penetration primer “Betonokontakt”.

Foam concrete walls


When applying plaster to foam concrete, reinforcing mesh is required
  • Before plastering, walls made of foam concrete blocks must be treated with a deep penetration impregnation primer. If necessary, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh – “serpyanka” – is fixed to the wall.
  • For such walls, both gypsum and cement mortars are used.

When choosing compositions for leveling walls, you need to approach this issue with all responsibility. This is necessary for comfortable plastering work, for good adhesion of the solutions to the wall and for the quality of the task performed - the longest service life of plastered walls.


It should be noted that construction stores currently offer a very large number of ready-made mixtures on different bases and designed for different surfaces. This is very convenient - when preparing the compositions, you will not need to rack your brains with determining and dosing the proportions of its ingredients, since it will be enough to simply dilute the mixture with water to the consistency indicated on the package.

When choosing or making your own plaster composition, you can use the following tables:

Table 1. Main characteristics of ready-made plaster mixtures

IndexStandards for brandsTest methods
Coupling solution LS 10/90Leveling solution LS 35/95Coupling solution LS 50/50Coupling solution LS 65/35Finishing mortar Fine Coat LS 50/50Termonit puttyPutty for blocks
Recommended layer thickness in mm3÷55÷155÷155÷153÷102÷103÷10TU clause 1.2
Recommended water consumption l/25kg3.5÷43.5÷43.5÷43.5÷44÷55.5÷66÷7TU clause 1.2
Estimated compressive strength in MPa not less than16 8 4 2 4 6 20 GOST 5802-86
Estimated bending strength in MPa not less than2 2 1 1 1 3 3 GOST 5802-86
Adhesion to base in MPa not less0.5 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 1 0.5 GOST 5802-86
Average density of solution kg/m 31900 1900 1900 1900 1900 1900 1900 GOST 8735-88
RN12÷1312÷1312÷1312÷1312÷1312÷1312÷13TU clause 1.2
Wall surface characteristicsComposition of the solution
Limestone, (with sand, gypsum, cement)Complex (cement, sand, gypsum, lime)Cement-sandLime-gypsum
In rooms with normal humidity
1:4; 3:1; 2:1 1:1:6 1:0,3:4* -
Wooden- - - 1:1÷1.5÷2÷2.5
For rooms with high humidity and for outdoor use
Brick, concrete, stone- 1:1:4 1:3 -
Wooden 1:1:6 1:4 -
* Note - 0.3 lime is added to the cement mortar for plasticity.
Note: the mobility of the solution should be 60 ÷ 80 mm for mechanized application, 70 ÷ 80 mm for manual application

Preparatory work

Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures to clean the walls of old finishing materials. This is done so that the plaster fits well and stays on the surface of the wall - everything must be removed from it, down to the base. Walls made of different materials require an individual approach to cleaning them.

If, after cleaning the walls, cracks are found on them, they must be repaired, otherwise the plaster placed on top of them may crack in the same place.

Sealing cracks

Detected cracks must be repaired, and this process is carried out in different ways, depending on the width and prevalence existing defects.

  • If the width of the crack is small, but it is obvious that it goes deep into the wall, the first thing to do is to widen it and free access to the narrow part in the thickness of the material.

Expansion of cracks on the wall surface...
... followed by their sealing

After the penetrating composition has dried, the crack is sealed with cement or gypsum-based putty using a spatula, level with the wall surface.

  • If the crack is very narrow and not deep, then you can seal it with sealant or silicone. They fill the crack with the help of a thin nozzle attached to the bottle with the composition, which is directed deep into the crack.

  • To seal very wide cracks, polyurethane foam is often used, which can be used to fill the gaps without even waiting for the primer to dry completely.

After complete polymerization of the foam, its excess, protruding beyond the level of the wall surface, is cut off, and then you can proceed to the next processes according to

Preparing a brick wall

  • If a thin layer of old plaster has already been applied to brick walls, it needs to be wetted with water using a sponge, moistening several times - this will make it easier to come off the surface.

  • Then, using a spatula with a metal working surface thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm and a hammer, the plaster layer must be carefully removed.

To do this, one of the sections of the wall is first tapped with a hammer. Then, through the cracks that have appeared, the plaster that has peeled off from the impacts is picked up with a spatula. If necessary, tap its handle with a hammer, separating layers of plaster from the wall.

  • You need to walk along the cleaned wall with a wire brush or a grinder with an appropriate attachment.
  • Next, the seams between the bricks need to be deepened a little - by 5 ÷ 7 mm, so that the plaster goes into them and from this got the best adhesion to the wall.
  • After this, the wall is cleaned with a soft brush and then a damp sponge.
  • The final preparatory stage is to coat the wall with a deep penetration primer in two layers. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried.

How to prepare a concrete wall

It is easier to clean a smooth concrete wall from plaster or whitewash than a brick wall, since the plaster usually sticks to it less well.

  • The whitewash can be thoroughly wetted with a sponge and cleaned off with an iron brush, and then the surface of the wall can be rinsed well.
  • If you don’t want to spread dampness, you can do it differently: first cover the whitewash with a thick layer of paste and let it dry, and then clean off the whitewash or a thin layer of plaster with a hard spatula.

  • It is recommended to make shallow cuts on the cleaned surface. It should be noted that this process is not easy, so you will have to make a lot of effort. But you shouldn’t ignore it.
  • You can replace the application of notches with a simpler method - by priming the wall with the addition of pure fine quartz sand. But sometimes this method may not work, so it is best to conduct the experiment on a small section of the wall, applying soil to it and waiting for it to dry completely. Next, you need to run your hand along the wall, checking its roughness. If it is noticeable, it means that the plaster will stick to it well. But the sand should not fall off the wall.

Preparing a wooden wall

  • It is quite easy to clean off old plaster from a wooden surface. The wall is tapped with a hammer, and the plaster itself flies off to the floor, so it is recommended to lay plastic film under the wall in advance. Then, after removing the plaster, the film along with the chipped construction debris can be immediately removed from the room, without stretching the cleaning for a long time and without spreading dirt for the whole house.
  • In order for the plaster to adhere well to a wooden surface, thin slats are stuffed onto it - the so-called shingles. They are nailed onto the wall diagonally using nails. The shingles will not only hold the plaster solution well, but will also serve as beacons when leveling it on the surface.

Shingles on a wooden wall are an excellent “reinforcement” for plaster
  • If, after cleaning the wall of old plaster, it is discovered that old shingles are attached to the surface, it must be removed, since insects could have infested it during long-term use, or it could have rotted and does not adhere securely to the surface. wall. In addition, old wood can often emit an unpleasant odor, which can easily seep into the room through a layer of new plaster.
  • Do not forget that before filling the sheathing, the wall must be coated with antiseptic compounds to protect the wood from mold or the appearance of colonies of harmful insects.
  • If shingles are chosen for the sheathing, then after its installation is completed, the wall must once again be coated with a wood preservative.
  • Sometimes, instead of shingles, metal mesh is used for sheathing. It is fixed not to the wooden wall itself, but to the slats, which are spacers between the mesh and the wall. Their thickness should be at least 3 mm.
  • You can begin further work on leveling the walls with plaster only after the wall has dried thoroughly.

Displaying beacons

To achieve ideal evenness of the wall using plastering, it is necessary to establish guidelines, so-called beacons, which are set according to the building level.


Typically, metal guides are made, which are fixed to the wall using gypsum mortar - it quickly sets and holds the metal profile in the position inwhich it was installed level.

  • The beacons are installed at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other, so that when leveling the solution, it usually follows two adjacent beacon profiles.

The ideal verticality of the profiles is controlled using a plumb line.

  • If you only have a short level in your tool kit, then you can use a long block that is placed against the guide before the plaster solution has completely dried. A level is placed in the middle and one or the other side of the guide is leveled along it, carefully pressing it with a block.

After preparing the walls for applying plaster, you can proceed to preparing the solution.

Preparation of mortar for plaster

The process itself plastering Most often it is carried out in three stages, applying the solution in three layers.

  • The first layer is throwing a fairly thick plaster solution onto the wall.

The first layer is a sketch, simply laying on a plastic plaster composition

The process can be carried out using a trowel or simply by hand, but in this case you must wear thick rubber gloves.

- The mortar is applied to brick and concrete walls with a thickness slightly higher than the installed beacons - this is approximately 5 mm.

— On wooden walls with lathing, the thickness should be about 8 ÷ 9 mm.

  • The second layer is called soil. A solution with a dough-like consistency is prepared for it. It is applied using a trowel or wide spatula, and its thickness should be about 7 ÷ 8 mm.
  • The third, finishing layer is called the covering. It should be made of fine-grained sand without large inclusions. The solution for the finishing layer must have creamy consistency.

You can purchase ready-made mixtures for each layer of plaster, which contain all the components that contribute to good adhesion and strength of the hardened mass.


The solution should “diverge” well along the plane of the wall, but not flow down

If the solution is made independently, then the following recipes are most often used for their preparation:

  • Cement-lime composition: 1 Part lime, 1 Part cement and 5 parts sand.
  • Cement mortar: 3 parts sand and 1 part cement.
  • Lime-based solution: 1 part lime and 3 parts sand.
  • Gypsum-lime composition: 3 parts lime mixed until doughy and 1 part dry gypsum powder.

There are nuances that must be taken into account before mixing the solution:

  • Cement-based plaster must be used within an hour after mixing it, otherwise it will lose its plasticity and will not adhere well to the wall surface. Therefore, you need to mix only such an amount of solution that can be guaranteed to be applied during this period of time.

  • Gypsum-based solutions set and harden extremely quickly, so they are mixed immediately before application to the wall and in small quantities. Such solutions also need to be leveled immediately, since the thinner the application layer, the faster it will dry.
  • When using ready-made mixtures, before pouring them with water, be sure to study the instructions located on the packaging, since these materials have different setting and drying times.

Mixing solutions occurs as follows:

  • First, water is poured into the container where the solution will be mixed. Then 6 ÷ 8 trowels of dry mixture are poured into it and mixed well using an electric drill with a special mixer attachment.
  • Then the dry mixture is gradually added to the container and mixed to the desired consistency. The solution must be homogeneous and plastic.
  • Next, the resulting solution is left for a couple of minutes and then kneaded one more time. If necessary, add a little water or dry plaster mixture, depending on the resulting and required thickness.

Once again I would like to remind you that you need to prepare as much mixture as the master can use in 25 ÷ 30 minutes - If the mixture is made on a gypsum basis, and in 40 ÷ 60 minutes - If on cement.

After the solution is mixed, you must immediately proceed to the first stage of applying plaster to the wall.

Find out the features of the process from our new article.

Plaster application technique

As mentioned above, most often the work is carried out in three stages. They should be considered in more detail in order to know how to act correctly.

  • The first stage, “outlining” or “spraying”, is carried out using a trowel.

They begin to pour the mortar from the bottom of the wall, gradually working upwards. The thrown piles of plaster rise above the guides by 8 ÷ 10 mm.

The solution, one might say, is splashed onto the wall with a small spread, with an effort to adhere well to the wall.


Having thrown the plaster at a height of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm from the floor, it is leveled using the rule. It is installed on the guides and slowly lifted up, pressing on the mortar and distributing the plaster between the guides with smooth movements to the left and to the right.

  • The next stage is applying a primer layer. This stage is carried out after the mortar of the first layer, poured and leveled, has set.

Due to the plasticity of the composition, it can be applied using a wide spatula.

The solution is taken from the container using a medium-width spatula and transferred to a wide spatula, and then applied to the wall and distributed over it in an even layer. When applying the mixture, it is necessary to level all the stripes remaining from running the spatula across the surface.


The same layer should hide the visible guide strips.

  • The third, finishing layer is designed to make the surface perfectly smooth. It should be thin, no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. It is applied to the still wet second layer, and if it has already dried, it can be moistened with a damp roller.

The finishing layer must be made as even as possible, smoothing all stripes and leveling not captured by a spatula places In order not to miss a single flaw on the surface, the wall is illuminated tangentially with a light bulb with the overhead lighting turned off.

  • After the finishing layer has dried, proceed to grouting the surface using a plastic or wooden trowel. This process is carried out in a circular motion, counterclockwise. In this case, the grater is pressed tightly against the plastered surface.

  • Next, felt material or felt is attached to the same grater, and the process of final grinding of the surface begins.

Before you decide to buy a large amount of materials for plastering walls, you should probably first purchase several kilograms of ready-made plaster mixture at a hardware store and carry out the entire process on a small section of the wall or on a piece of plywood. If everything goes well, you can move on to large-scale work on the walls of the room.