Finishing walls with plasterboard without a frame and profile: we do the finishing according to the instructions with our own hands. Finishing walls with plasterboard using frame and frameless methods Covering walls with plaster

Wall finishing with plasterboard is extremely important process in construction business. This method of leveling the surface is considered one of the easiest and at the same time quite reliable. Drywall is durable and can provide good timing operation. In this article we will look at ways to decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands, and also tell you the procedure for working in wooden house.

Types of wall decoration

There are two processing methods using drywall. This is a method with or without installing a frame. Both are quite often used in construction. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Frameless method

This method is easy to implement and quite fast. In this case, the installation of drywall is done using glue. But, do not forget that for such work it is necessary to use special glue For plasterboard sheets. Fortunately, this one is quite common and can be found in any hardware store.

For installation, the first thing you need to do is prepare the walls. They must be removed from all dirt and dust and treated with a primer. You will also need to check the wall for defects and curvature.

If the unevenness of the wall does not exceed seven millimeters, then gluing occurs in the usual way. Glue is applied to the material and spread over the entire surface. If the curvature is large, then the glue must be applied in the form of cakes at a certain interval. But when the unevenness exceeds twenty millimeters, we recommend that you first level the wall using putty, and only then glue the drywall.

Pasting the wall

After cleaning and checking for unevenness, the wall is treated with a primer. Priming helps increase surface adhesion and also protects the wall from the formation of mold and mildew. Afterwards, wait until the primer is completely dry, and only then can you continue working. The next step will be preparing the adhesive solution. It must be prepared according to the instructions on the package and in no case violate the manufacturer’s recommendations.

He recommends not preparing a lot at once, as the glue dries out quite quickly. After thirty minutes the mixture will harden and cannot be used. We use glue to treat the section of the wall to which the drywall will later be attached.

Next, the material is laid face down on the floor and is also treated with an adhesive solution over the entire area. For better installation We recommend applying a second layer of glue vertically. Next, the drywall is lifted and applied to the wall. All that remains is to align it on the plane by applying building level and a hammer made of wood or rubber.

Advice! We recommend installing small spacers approximately ten millimeters thick between the floor and the sheet. This will help the material expand when there is a sudden change in temperature or humidity. Drywall itself can be used as a gasket.

The installation of the remaining sheets is done in exactly the same way. The main thing is to take accurate measurements so that adjacent sheets become correctly. We recommend paying special attention to the corners. Now let's take a closer look at the installation method with installing the frame.

Frame installation method

This method involves laying it on a frame. The structure can be made of metal or wooden blocks. However, please note that the wooden frame must be well dried, otherwise the wood may dry out over time, leading to warping. And because of this, cracks or gaps may appear. Therefore, many professionals in the construction trade recommend using metal profiles. They have good technical performance and can last for many years. The following photo shows an example of wooden and metal frame for covering the wall with plasterboard.

Frame installation

When choosing a metal structure, two profiles can be used: rack-mount or guide. The guide profile is used to install the circuit and is attached to the ceiling and floor. They must be installed perfectly level. First, the profile is mounted to the ceiling, and then the installation location on the floor is determined using a plumb line. Next, you will need to insert rack profiles into the guide profiles. They will need to be connected with self-tapping screws. The interval between the posts should be approximately fifty millimeters.

To ensure that the frame is installed firmly, the profiles are usually attached to hangers, which are installed in advance. The installation interval of the hangers is approximately forty centimeters. Installed frame visible in the photo below:

Fastening drywall

This is much easier than installing the frame. The main thing is to correctly fit the sheet of drywall and install it in the right place. For installation, professionals recommend using black self-tapping screws, as they are made of heavy-duty material.

The self-tapping screw is screwed in carefully so as not to deform the drywall. The number of screws will need to be determined in advance.

Wall putty

The final stage of installation will be plastering the wall. If the frame method was chosen, then first of all it is necessary to treat the fastening points with a solution and only then the joints between the sheets. For puttying, experts use a special tape called serpyanka. Then the wall is primed and treated with putty until it is perfectly flat.

Decorating a wooden house

Although covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house is a difficult task, the result is worth it. You will get absolute symmetry and perfect smooth walls what for wooden house is a huge advantage. Also, sheathing with plasterboard will additionally insulate the walls. After finishing, you can choose any coating for further cladding, be it wallpaper or decorative plaster. Let's look at the procedure for cladding a wooden house in more detail. The preparation process for a wooden house is visible in the following photo.

Sheathing with plasterboard

The first step is to take measurements and cut the sheets. To do this you will need:

• use a ruler and pencil to mark;
• Use a sharp construction knife to cut the top sheet;
• break the sheet according to the markings;
• bend the sheet at an angle and cut the back side of the drywall;
• Make markings on the cut material at the joints at a distance of approximately 10 millimeters;
• make the cut again with a construction knife;
• make a chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees;
• Sand all uneven surfaces with sandpaper.

Now you can start attaching the drywall. It is better to place the material in a checkerboard pattern; a slight shift is acceptable. The sheets are attached with self-tapping screws. The fasteners should be located at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters. The closer the screws are, the better.

Finishing

Before proceeding to finishing the walls in a wooden house, check the location of the electrical wiring. Since it will be very difficult to dismantle the walls in order to fix everything.

Small grooves are formed at the joints during processing. They need to be filled with plaster and the serpyanka buried in them. This procedure will protect the coating from the formation of seams and cracks. Then all the recesses above the screws are filled with plaster. The final procedure can be considered finishing with wallpaper or applying decorative plaster.

If you plan to wallpaper, you will need to pre-treat the wall with a primer. To keep the wallpaper as good as possible, we recommend applying it to drywall. additional layer glue. The following photo shows the result of finishing a wooden house with plasterboard.

Eventually

As you can see, finishing walls with plasterboard has a lot of advantages. This procedure will not only level the walls, but also insulate the house. The procedure for decorating walls with your own hands is quite difficult, but if you carefully follow the tips and recommendations, you will succeed. Interior decoration a wooden house with plasterboard also allows you to strengthen the walls and protect them from moisture. We recommend viewing next video to see the process of finishing walls with plasterboard:

• Wall cladding with plasterboard - 1008 craftsmen per site
• 9133 reviews of repair specialists
• Wall cladding with plasterboard in Moscow from 399 rubles/sq.m

Cladding with plasterboard - quick and effective method wall decoration in the apartment, country house or office. The method is very popular. It allows you to level surfaces, hide communications, and also implement non-standard design solutions. In particular, panels can be used to create niches, projections, and openings. Laying is carried out on concrete, brick, gypsum, cement, wood.
The service is offered experienced specialists website operating in all districts of Moscow. At the negotiation stage, a work plan is drawn up and the amount of necessary materials is calculated. After agreeing on the details, a contract with a detailed estimate is concluded. The installation of plasterboard sheets is preceded by surface preparation. Craftsmen remove the remnants of old coatings, seal cracks and dents and apply primer. GCRs are mounted in two ways. For frameless installation, special glue or polyurethane foam is used. In the second option, metal profiles are used.
The cost depends on the volume and complexity of the work, prices for raw materials. The site publishes photographs of completed projects, which simplifies the search. the best specialist. The starting price is 300 rubles per square meter.

Covering walls with plasterboard is actually not such a complicated process as it might seem to many, but at the same time it The best way for leveling walls. What wall covering with plasterboard gives us is smooth walls, hidden communications (wiring, pipes, insulation, etc.), sound insulation, and environmental friendliness. Therefore, in this article we will carefully consider the process of covering walls with plasterboard.

Necessary material for covering walls with plasterboard

Before starting any construction work we need to make sure availability required material. The first thing we need is a metal frame, which we will make using:
1. PP ceiling profile, Parameters: height 27 mm, width 60 mm, length 3 m.

2. Guide profile PN-28/27, as can be seen from the picture, it is U-shaped and serves not only for covering walls, but also ceilings. Parameters: height 27 mm, width 28 mm, length 3 m.

4. Self-tapping screws for metal, size 4 mm, also known as “buttons”

5. Self-tapping screws for fastening plasterboard sheets, size 25 mm

6. Screwdriver, you can also use a drill or hammer drill, but I personally find it more convenient to work with a screwdriver. In this article “Choosing a screwdriver” I described in detail what kind of screwdrivers there are and how they differ.

7. Metal scissors or fortune (grinder)

8. Construction knife, preferably with a sharp and strong blade

9. Drywall sheets, you should pay attention to the dimensions: standard size the sheet is usually 2500x1200x12.5 mm and weighs about 29 kg, but there can be sheets up to 5 meters long, from 2.4 to 1.2 meters wide, and from 6 to 24 millimeters thick

10. Measuring tool: level, tape measure, plumb line. Read more about measuring tools here “Measuring tools in construction”

11. Well, for complete happiness, a pencil or marker

Not so long ago, drywall was attached to a wooden frame, either directly to the ceiling or to the wall. Currently, there is a metal frame for attaching to drywall. Assembling the frame for drywall has been greatly simplified. This installation will significantly save your time. Using a metal frame, you can assemble various structures.

Subsequently, plasterboard is attached to the metal frame, and walls, arches, partitions, and ceilings are obtained. The metal frame is galvanized, and thus protected from corrosion and oxidation, thanks to this property it will last for a long time. The metal frame for attaching drywall is divided into two parts: the main and load-bearing parts. The main part is attached to the ceilings and walls, and a sheet of plasterboard is attached to the load-bearing part.
Using tin snips, you can cut the frame for attaching drywall. In order to attach a sheet of drywall to the profile, special screws and self-tapping screws are required. The service life of such a frame is much longer than that of a wooden one, it does not rot, and there are no wood pests.

Assembling a metal frame for drywall.

I have seen and read a lot on the Internet in various ways installation of a metal frame, the principle is of course the same, but there are enough installation options, so I will describe exactly the method that I tested as a personal example.

At the beginning of the installation of the drywall frame, it is necessary to determine the exact location of the partition or wall. When assembling the frame, you need to make sure that there are wires for electricity and water pipes. We are planning a location for a future metal structure. We use a laser level and a chalk cord. Laser level We measure the distance of the corners, and with a chalk cord - the evenness of the future structure to the floor lines. We repeat everything in relation to the opposite wall. We also measure the boundaries of the future door.
To install the profile, you need to cut out three parts of the wall frame: bottom, ceiling and wall. Measure the length of the frame and cut it with scissors. At the site of the future door opening, in the profile attached to the floor, we leave right size. Based on the dimensions of the lower profile, mark the required width on the baseboard. Then we cut out the marked distance on the plinth and make sure the exact vertical cut is made.

Remove the cut sections using a nail puller. If necessary, nail the edges of the plinth or screw it to the wall with self-tapping screws. The gap between the fastenings should be approximately 60 cm. If fastening to concrete is necessary, you need to make a hole through the profile using a special drill. We hammer the fastener with a snipe into the resulting hole.

The installation of the drywall profile must be reliable. Need to take wooden block and insert it into the profile around the circumference of the wooden opening. This will allow you to secure door frame. The profile with the bar must be inserted simultaneously into the profile bottom trim on one side of the doorway. Do the same on the other side.

To establish the profile of the door lintel, bends at right angles are required for attachment to the racks. To secure the lintel profile to the studs, you will need special drywall screws. To check horizontality, you must use a level. The first post is installed by screwing it into the lower and upper profile of the frame. After this, you need to rotate the rack profile to the specified position. The same procedure is performed for the remaining racks, including the rack above the opening. If necessary, we install spacers in case they are needed for fastening heavy and small sheets of drywall. The base is ready, the next step is plasterboard covering.

The process of covering walls with plasterboard

Working with drywall is quite easy, cutting it is very simple. To do this, you need to mark the place of the cut, apply a level or a flat object, and cut the line with a knife. Then lightly hit the sheet where the cut is made, after which it will break exactly along the marked line. Carefully cut through the cardboard on the other side and you will get a perfect cut.

The sheet must be secured with drywall screws (25). Try to screw in the screws at a distance from the edges, otherwise they will break off; the distance between the screws: in the middle is 20-30 cm, at the edges about 15. The heads of the screws should not protrude, they must be slightly recessed, about 1-2 mm. Once the first sheet is screwed, attach all the intact sheets and then cut and screw the inserts.

Well, this completes the plasterboard wall covering. , the main thing is not to be afraid and try to do everything with your own hands, because the thing is made on our own brings more satisfaction. With this, I say goodbye to you, for now.

Covering walls with plasterboard for leveling and preparing for finishing is increasingly replacing traditional starting plaster. This is what drywall was invented for: its synonym, as you know, is dry plaster. Firstly, leveling walls with plasterboard is much simpler and cheaper than old-fashioned plastering. Especially - wooden walls: to plaster wood using the Old Testament method, you must first apply glassine to the wall, then felt soaked in liquid clay mortar and a 2-level sheathing of shingles. Secondly, the most experienced plasterer, working with a falcon and a trowel, will not create a plaster layer that is smoother than 3 mm/m. The plaster itself, when drying out, will give more unevenness, because... applied in spots. Meanwhile, for many modern methods of decorative wall finishing, 3 mm/m is the limit.

Sheathing with plasterboard allows you to bring the wall up to a general unevenness of 2 mm between the diagonal corners. Besides, plasterboard sheathing has a mark in front of solid plaster. advantages:

• Hygienic and hypoallergenic - does not create dust and does not get dirty.
• Improves the heat and sound insulation of housing.
• “Breathes”, i.e. absorbs excess water vapor from the air and releases it when there is a shortage; this is especially important in an apartment made of reinforced concrete or sand-lime brick. The breathing of drywall is not as deep and even as wood, but still not stone.

There are only 2 disadvantages to leveling walls with plasterboard, but they are quite serious.

The first is fragility.. If the corner of the furniture hits a wall plastered in the usual way, a pothole is possible, which is easy to repair. If a stumbled or slipped person presses his body against such a wall, nothing will happen to it at all. In both cases, drywall is at risk of breaking and cracking.

The second is poor accessibility of hidden communications. If in regular wall If a pipe leaks or the wiring burns out, the matter will be dealt with with a groove, which is subsequently sealed. If there is an accident behind the drywall, you will have to remove at least one slab, ruining finishing until it needs to be completely replaced.

Taking into account all these circumstances, the question needs to be resolved: or drywall. In modern budget and mid-level housing, the result is most often in favor of the latter due to the low cost and ease of work. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give the reader as complete an idea as possible of how to sheathe and level walls with plasterboard with your own hands, because covering a room with it approx. 12 sq. m by hired craftsmen costs somewhere from 30 thousand rubles, the popularity of the material affects pricing.

Material

Drywall is a pressed mass of cellulose filler with a gypsum binder, covered with a protective paper layer. It is produced in sheets (gypsum plasterboard), up to 16 mm thick, and slabs (gypsum plasterboard) up to 32 mm thick. For cladding walls and ceilings, regular gypsum boards, moisture-resistant green gypsum boards, red or orange fire-resistant gypsum plasterboards, and green fire-resistant gypsum boards with a red stripe are used.

GKLO and GKLVO are used for finishing wooden buildings, because in case of fire, they delay the spread of flames for a time sufficient to evacuate people. All types of gypsum plasterboards and gypsum boards are intended only for internal use, because cannot withstand prolonged exposure to outdoor conditions. GKV racks in rooms with high humidity and occasional spraying (bathroom/WC, hallway, basement, garage), but not under rain and wind.

The parameters of the most common standard sizes of gypsum boards are given in the table, but in trade practice they are often divided more simply: into arched ones with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, ceilings with a thickness of 9.5 mm and wall ones with a thickness of 12.5 mm (all - including paper covering). Arched drywall designed for the production of volumetric decorative designs, but can also find auxiliary use when covering walls, see below. Ceiling gypsum plasterboards of lighter weight, as the name implies, are sheathed on ceilings.

Basic cladding methods

Wall finishing with plasterboard can be done framed (over lathing), frameless with glue, or combined. The latter is equivalent in all properties and qualities to frameless, so they are often not separated. The advantage of frameless gypsum board cladding is the extreme simplicity and low cost of work. It also reduces the fragility of drywall due to larger area its adhesion to the load-bearing (base) wall. The disadvantage is that the stability of the entire cladding depends on the condition of the base wall: if it gets wet or otherwise loses its surface strength, a sudden collapse of the entire cladding is possible at once. Also, gypsum plasterboards cannot be placed on wooden walls using glue. In principle, it is possible that adhesives such as aquarium silicone or Moment-gel hold gypsum plasterboard on wood equally well and never show spots on the sheathing. But the cost of finishing will be such that mahogany lining is unlikely to cost more. Therefore, further attention will be paid to gypsum board sheathing on the frame, as it is more expensive, but reliable and allows for insulation of the room from the inside.

Note: Some consider an additional advantage of gypsum board sheathing on a frame to be that it can be done without stripping the base wall, i.e. By old plaster and wallpaper. But, firstly, this cannot be done for sanitary and hygienic reasons. Secondly, without a technical assessment of the condition of the main load-bearing surface, there can be no confidence in the reliability of the entire skin.

GKL on a frame

The technology of cladding gypsum board walls on a frame is based on the use of thin-walled galvanized steel profiles. Wooden sheathing has now completely outlived its usefulness, even on partitions in heated rooms: due to thermal deformations and warping of the wood, cracks creep along it after 3-4 years. GKL sheathing wooden frame suitable for small elements of volumetric structures, sheathed in pieces without seams. GKL sheathing on a steel frame includes the following. stages of work:

1. Preparation of the wall and existing communications;
2. Selection of frame design, profiles and fasteners to it;
3. Roughness measurement load-bearing wall, marking for the frame, cutting and cutting gypsum boards;
4. Frame installation;
5. Attaching the gypsum board to the frame;
6. Grouting;
7. Installation of skirting boards covering gaps.

Wall

You need to remove the old finish from the wall under the gypsum board sheathing. Electrical wiring is laid in grooves; the pipes are surrounded by a frame using crossbars (see below), because It is unacceptable to make slots for communications in the frame profiles.

Profiles

To cover the wall you will need profiles of the standard sizes shown in Fig. Sometimes the so-called hat profile (see below). Shaped finishing profiles are most often used for cladding gypsum board slopes, but this is a special issue, much more complex than cladding walls; craftsmen charge $30-$100 for 1 slope, depending on its size and complexity.

Note: PS rack profiles are sometimes called wall profiles, and PN guides are sometimes called wall profiles.

Frames

Typical scheme for covering a gypsum board wall on a frame made of PN, PNP and PS profiles shown on the next page. rice. Suitable for most types stone walls, also in a wooden house made of laminated veneer lumber, because it practically does not warp or “play” due to temperature changes. Suitable for internal insulation and double skinning (see also at the end). Using standard lathing, you can sheathe the walls of the GKP.

Sheathing on flat profiles(see next figure) is much cheaper than the standard one, but is only permissible in dry, heated rooms. For wooden laths you need to use seasoned timber 75x50, chamber dried. If the general unevenness of the wall is up to 10 mm, and the local unevenness is up to 3 mm/m, the flat profiles can be attached directly to the wall (see also below, about fasteners for the frame). Sheathing along flat profiles is possible using scraps or pieces of gypsum boards staggered, as well as horizontally oriented sheets. This can be significant if the height of the room (for example, 3.6 or 2.4 m) does not fit well with the length of the gypsum board sheets. It is not recommended to do double cladding on flat profiles.

Finally, there may be a case when the thickness of the skin together with the frame is required to be minimal, for example, in cramped spaces. Then it is possible to carry out the lathing for gypsum boards only from ceiling profiles(next fig.), but double and single gypsum plasterboards with a thickness of over 14 mm and gypsum plasterboard frames will not withstand ceiling profiles. The recommended thickness of gypsum plasterboard for installation on a frame made of ceiling profiles is up to 10 mm. The same type of frame can also be assembled only from PS profiles, but it will turn out to be just as weak, but of full standard thickness.

Note: The sealing and damping tape in all cases is made of microporous rubber or a similar material with a thickness of 4-6 mm.

Fasteners

There is a wide range of fasteners for sale for frames under gypsum boards, but a direct hanger (pos. 1 in the figure below) can be considered universal, especially since straight hangers can be doubled, pos. 2; the “whiskers” sticking out forward are bent to the side. This allows you to mount a frame with the possibility of insulation on walls with potholes/bumps up to 40-50 mm. The mounting legs of direct hangers can be bent back for mounting exactly on a corner or wooden stand (see below). Direct hangers are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws in propylene dowels with the threaded part entering the wall, at least:

• Concrete – 70 mm.
• From red solid brick– 80 mm.
• From silicate and red hollow bricks – 90 mm.
• Wooden – 100 mm.
• From foam concrete, aerated concrete, PHB - 120 mm.

It is unlikely that any frame for gypsum plasterboard will do without crossbars to bypass openings, communications and assemble additional load-bearing beams at the joints of sheet belts. The cross members are cut from the same profile as the vertical posts of the frame. For mounting them, there are corner hangers on sale, but most craftsmen do without additional fasteners. If you cut through the corners of the profile, as in pos. 3a, then we get 3 mounting paws, pos. 3 b. But it is unacceptable to attach the cross members to the racks with an overlay (pos. 3c) in loaded structures: the screw heads will become sources of dangerous local stresses in the casing. Sometimes the middle leg is cut out (pos. 3c), the side ones are bent, and the crossbars are attached flush, but the knot turns out to be rather weak. It would be correct to trim the middle paw and put it on top vertical stand, pos. 4. When installing the skin, a self-tapping screw will cut into it, the sheet of skin will be pressed, and the entire fastening unit will be very reliable.

What to fasten with?

Since we had to touch on the issues of assembling the frame and fastening the sheathing ahead of time, it must be said that the frame is assembled using LN9 metal self-tapping screws (with a press washer head), and the gypsum board is attached to the frame with TN25 self-tapping screws. The head of the latter is not conical! It smoothly transitions into the body of the propeller! If you attach the gypsum boards with screws with tapered heads, the sheathing will not last long, see also below. Installation holes for self-tapping screws are punched in advance with a special profile cutter, see fig. If you simply drill them, then a skirt will not form for threading, and the screws will not hold at all.

Marking for the frame

By cleaning the wall with a long, even strip - the rule (emphasis on the “and”) - is to determine its overall unevenness; The choice of frame layout may need to be changed. Then find the height of the most protruding mound. After that on the ceiling beat off a line perpendicular to the adjacent walls and spaced from the level of the top of the highest hillock of the wall being sheathed by at least 20-30 mm. From this line, another line is drawn along a plumb line on the floor; In this way, the alignment of frame parts is greatly simplified.

Next, starting from the corner along a plumb line, vertical lines are struck in increments of 600 mm so that they fall exactly on the joints of the sheets. It is also necessary to take into account that gypsum board sheets should be 20-30 mm away from adjacent walls, floors and ceilings. That is, the first line is marked at 620-630 m from the corner, the next at 1220-1230 mm, etc. The last line should be the same 20-30 mm from the final corner plus half the installation width of the profile, i.e. by 80-90 mm.

The next step is to make a mark on the vertical lines 80-90 mm from the floor and the next in increments of 600 mm until less than 600 mm remains to the ceiling. Then the last vertical marks are also made 80-90 mm from the ceiling. A direct hanger is applied to the vertical marks one by one and the locations for drilling holes for self-tapping screws in the wall are marked. If standard sheets have a height of this room not enough, in a similar way, but now according to the level, mark the wall for installation of crossbars. Don’t forget, the longitudinal axis of the cross member profile should also be at the junction of the slabs of the sheathing chords! That's all for now, you can get distracted by marking and cutting the gypsum boards.

Preparation of gypsum boards

At this stage of the work, you first need to cut the incomplete sheets to size. It’s easy to cut gypsum boards: a cut with a mounting knife, a break in the air, a cut from the inside, see fig. below. “From the inside out” is conditional, both layers of gypsum board are the same. Next, chamfers are removed from the edges of the sheets for grouting the joints. To do this you will need a drywall edge plane, see fig. on right. If you have a one-time job for yourself, then it is better to rent it, because... This tool is not suitable for anything else. You need to take a plane for 2 angles - 45 and 22.5 degrees; why - see below, about grouting joints.

Note: cut to size in width the last sheet along the row (belt) needs to be approx. 10 mm narrower than what was measured. The fact is that for thermal deformation of the sheets themselves, you need to give a gap of 1-2 mm between them. On a wall of normal length there will be about that much. You can take this value into account when marking the wall for the frame, but there will be a lot of fuss, and a profile width of 60 mm on a regular wall is enough to compensate for the discrepancy.

The next point is marking and drilling/cutting holes and openings for sockets, lamps, pipes, ventilation, etc. To do this, it is convenient to use a sheet of ordinary packaging cardboard 600 mm wide: apply it to the wall, press it over the recesses with the palm of your hand, outline the contours with a pencil, cut it out and transfer it to the gypsum board. Holes in drywall are cut with a pen or compass drill, and rectangular openings are cut with a drywall knife. It is similar to the mounting one, only its blade is thicker and stronger.

Frame assembly

Installation of the frame for gypsum board cladding begins with the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. If adjacent walls are not sheathed, PN profiles are also placed on them to create a solid frame, see fig. on right; connecting its corners - on each side with a TN9 self-tapping screw (so that the head does not protrude). The first attachment points to the floor/ceiling are 60 mm from the edge; the rest - in increments of approx. 300 mm so that the last one is also 60 mm from the other edge.

Next, straight hangers are attached to the wall, PS/PP profiles are inserted into the PN/PPN (first at the bottom, then at the top), move them to place and check their evenness horizontally and vertically using a rule and a plumb line or a level in which there is a plumb line. If prev. the work was carried out carefully, no additional alignment will be required. Then the “whiskers” of direct hangers are bent to the rack profiles and the profiles are attached.

The next stage is the installation of crossbars. How it is done is described above, but sometimes, say, when lining pipes running along a wall, a second level needs to be added to the frame. This is done using 2-level crabs, see fig. left. It may also be necessary to assemble the crossbars from pieces, because they will be used for cuttings. Assembling rack and guide profiles from pieces is only permissible as a last resort!

The profile sections are connected end-to-end using straight connectors, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.:

In critical places, for example, in the lining of openings of doors, windows and mortgages for hanging furniture and equipment, it is highly advisable not to connect crossbars with racks in a simple way, and with the help of special crosses, the so-called. single-level crabs, pos. 3 and 4.

In the end you should end up with something like the one in fig. on right.

Angles

In the case where all walls are sheathed with gypsum boards, Special attention attention should be paid to tracing the corners. WITH internal problems usually does not happen; Schemes for lining internal corners for cladding on a frame and combined with glue (see below) are given in pos. 1 and 2 next rice. By the way, over the past year and a half, Knauf gypsum boards have become completely disgraceful: everything is in bubbles, soft, like foam, you can pierce it with your finger. Not counterfeit, original.

With external corners it is more difficult. You cannot place them on the edges along the rack; 2 sheets at once will end up with hanging edges, which is unacceptable. The stand needs to be placed on one side of the corner, a hanging profile of the same type must be attached to it, and the edges of the gypsum board should be attached to it, pos. 3. Then a PU profile using Fugenfüller glue or similar is applied to the joint of the sheets, pos. 4. It is better to take PU with reinforcing mesh, pos. 5.

The PU protrudes above the gypsum board by 2-2.5 mm. This protrusion must be reduced to the general level of the skin at a width of 400-500 mm, then it will not be noticeable and will not interfere with any finishing. Smooth out the PU protrusion with gypsum starting putty and a spatula, respectively. width.

Insulation under the skin

Generally speaking, insulating from the inside is bad: there is a high probability of dew point getting inside the room. It is strongly recommended to lay insulation under the gypsum board sheathing only if the wall is already insulated from the outside. In this case, insulation under gypsum plasterboard sheathing concrete wall done according to the diagram in Fig. on right. If the wall is brick or wooden, before installing the frame, a semi-permeable waterproofing membrane is applied to it, the same as is used for thermal insulation of roofs: it will not allow water to pass through, but will release its vapor. The best option is a microperforated membrane.

Instead of penofol, you can use folgoizol or a similar vapor barrier. It is applied to the frame before installing the sheathing with a continuous layer of foil inside. The overlap of the edges of the vapor barrier tapes is from 15 cm; The joints are taped with construction tape. The edge flaps on the floor, ceiling and walls are the same; the excess is trimmed off after installing the skirting boards. If there is no external insulation yet, then it is necessary:

• The sheathing is made from gypsum boards.
• The insulation should not be mineral wool, but cellulose insulation (ecowool), it does not fall off and retains its insulating properties when wet. True, ecowool will cost approx. 25% more expensive.
• Apply a micro-perforated membrane to any wall before installing the frame.

Sheathing

To mark the holes for attaching the gypsum board to the frame, pioneer holes of approx. 2 mm in diameter, I place the sheets in place and use a mechanic’s scribe to mark the places of notches on the profiles. The distance of the sheet from the floor of 20-30 mm is ensured by scraps of wooden slats. Mark them and don’t lose them, otherwise the holes won’t fit together later!

The number of attachment points is 45-70 per sheet with a length of 2000-3000 mm, respectively. There are 5 points on the short sides (3 on the racks and 1 between them); the rest are evenly distributed along the long sides and along the center line. Extreme points should be 9-12 mm from the edge of the sheet.

An important point when attaching gypsum boards to the frame is screwing in the screws. The screwdriver must be set at minimum speed so that the head of the screw just presses into the cover paper without tearing it, as in pos. 2 fig. In other cases, the fastening will be weakened by 1.5-1.8 times, and if it is not screwed down enough (item 1), then the protruding fastener heads will weaken the casing. After fastening is completed, the heads of the screws are rubbed with gypsum putty.

Note: if the sheathing on the frame has 2-3 belts of vertical sheets, then there is no point in staggering it - it will not add strength to the sheathing, it will only make the frame overly complicated. At the joints of the belts, you need to place crossbars (see above), so that the horizontal joints fall exactly in their middle, and fasten the gypsum board as usual.

On wood

Attach the gypsum board sheathing frame directly to the wooden wall, as in Fig. - a grave mistake. Apparently, the construction people have already had a lot of grief and trouble with this: there are many schemes of floating sheathing under gypsum boards in a wooden house wandering around the RuNet. In fact, an effective damper between the “walking” wooden wall and gypsum board sheathing can be ordinary straight hangers, you just need to install them correctly.

The cladding of wooden gypsum board walls is carried out using vertical counter-lattice made of beams from 60x75; wider (60x100, 60x150) - it won’t be worse, it will only take away more space from the room. The frame layout is standard, made of PN/PS profiles. As for attaching direct hangers to beams, there are 2 options.

The first one is in a house made of laminated veneer lumber and with central heating. The mounting legs of the hangers are bent back and attached to the beam from the sides, so the entire sheathing will be stiffer. The second - in other cases: the hangers are attached to the beams with pairs of 6x60 wood screws through an oval hole in the shelf of the hanger (see again the picture with fasteners). Self-tapping screws are taken with faceplates and screwed into the wood, retreating from the edges of the hole by 6-10 mm. In this case, it is advisable to make the cladding 2-layer from 9 mm sheets (arched gypsum board).

Seams

The methods for grouting joints between gypsum plasterboard sheets/slabs vary depending on the type of decorative finishing of the wall. Under elastic finishing requiring an absolutely flat base, but not afraid of microcracks underneath (non-woven or foam wallpaper, PVC-based photo wallpaper, plastic tiles) the chamfer on the edges is removed at 22.5 degrees so that the apical angle of the V-shaped groove between the plates is 45 degrees. The groove is rubbed with starting gypsum putty with plasticizer flush with the general surface.

For other types of finishing, the edge plane is set at 45 degrees, and the apical angle of the groove will be 90 degrees. In this case, the groove is filled with putty (preferably adhesive) in some excess, then rubbed into a strip. Next, until the putty begins to set, apply sickle tape (on the left in the figure) and press it with a polished steel spatula (on the right in the figure) or roll it with a slightly damp smooth roller. When the grout has hardened, rub it with putty and serpyanka with a smooth transition into the general plane, as in outer corner, see above.

Note: First, a pair of folded L-shaped pieces of serpyanka with wings along the seams from 15 cm are applied and pressed onto the crosshairs of the seams. Then a tape is laid along the seam with the same overlap on the wings.

Skirting boards

Skirting boards along the contour of the skin are attached to the floor or ceiling. If adjacent walls are sheathed, then internal corner put a PU profile with reinforcing tape, as on an external one, and attach it to it assembly adhesive baseboard

Without frame

Sheathing gypsum boards with glue without a frame, as stated at the beginning, is quite possible. But, contrary to popular belief, its technology is determined primarily by the unevenness of the wall, and not by its material. Options for gluing gypsum boards to walls are shown in the figure:

Method for pos. c – combined; First, a sheathing made from strips of the same gypsum board is glued to the wall. According to method b, lumps of glue are approx. 10 cm in diameter are applied in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 250 mm. The height of the lumps is the greatest unevenness of the wall + 20 mm, because optimal thickness adhesive layer 12-20 mm. The wall for gluing gypsum boards must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.

Note: Prepare the glue exactly according to the instructions. It is unacceptable to mix dry glue with water; you only need to mix it with a drill and a mixer. In general, the strength and reliability of the glued skin greatly depends on the quality of the water for preparing the glue.

The gypsum plasterboard is glued to the wall with continuous control of horizontal (rule) and vertical (level with a bubble on a plumb) level. Here the stumbling block for beginners is a crushed slab. It is unacceptable to pull it away from the wall; you can only press it down. In this case, preliminary gluing of beacons on the wall from scraps of working plasterboard or any other can help out, see fig. on right. Companies involved in drywall will gladly give away small waste from arched gypsum boards; to them they are just garbage. The crushed beacon can be torn off and glued again, in in this case the lighthouses are just a support.

Beacons are glued to the wall so that they fit between the cakes or strips of glue on the work plate. You need 4 beacons per gypsum board/sheet at some distance from the corners. Beacons are first glued to the bottom row, leveling with a rule, then from the beacons of the bottom row the rows are led upward, pressing down with a rule and checking with a level. GKL slabs/sheets are glued when the glue under the beacons gains strength, i.e. after 3-4 days.

Note: Recently, “people’s builders” have made it even cheaper and easier to stick gypsum boards on the wall by replacing the glue... polyurethane foam. Technically, this looks very doubtful, but there is no more or less long-term experience in operating such skins, so anything is possible in the future. Watch the video if you want //www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEu7IJdnqVA, and then decide whether it’s worth trying. In damp, cold (but not below freezing!) utility rooms, it’s probably worth it. If it lasts there, it will work anywhere. And the method is ridiculously simple and cheap.

GKL decor?

The fact that gypsum boards are used to make voluminous decorative interior details (on the left in the figure): niches, shelves, dropped ceilings, even cabinets, it is common knowledge. However, a flat multi-level decorative finishing plasterboard, in the center in Fig. To do this, the blanks are glued to the wall by applying a thin (approx. 2 mm) layer of drywall adhesive to them with a notched trowel. If the room is being sheathed in a cramped space, where there will be no joints of slabs on the walls, for example. balcony, then you can simply paint the casing, and stick PVC skirting boards or corners on the corners, on the right in Fig. An option for cladding with joints is not to chamfer the edges, leave the gaps between the plates 2-3 mm, and roll a T-shaped PVC furniture edge into them with a smooth roller.

Suspension for gypsum board

For hanging pieces of furniture and household appliances it is necessary to provide in advance in the frame embedded parts from wooden beam or OSB. If the suspension point accounts for up to 20-30 kg, the mortgages can simply be attached to the profiles, as in the figure:

If there is more weight at the suspension point or expensive equipment (TV, microwave) is suspended, then the mortgages must be framed with crossbars from the profile of the racks. Well, if the suspension point is less than 15-20 kg, then the suspensions can be attached through the skin, see, for example. video clip:

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Drywall occupies a leading position among the materials used for rough finishing of walls. This is not surprising - large and even sheets help in as soon as possible eliminate and disguise surface defects, making repairs quick and simple. The material also has good sound and thermal insulation properties, and this is an important factor when renovating an apartment in our country, because most of the housing stock has obvious shortcomings in these matters.

Finishing walls with plasterboard has a number of nuances that need to be dealt with before starting repairs, so our material today is intended to shed light on them and talk about how to cover walls with plasterboard quickly and efficiently.

The success of the repair largely depends on the actions preceding the main work, and therefore it is worth recalling the key steps in preparing the material, wall surfaces and tools.

Material calculation

Quantity required drywall calculated quite simply - you just need to calculate total area surface of the walls, subtract the area of ​​windows and doors from it, and then divide by the area of ​​one sheet of drywall. We will need some reserve, and therefore multiply the result by a factor of 1.2, if we're talking about about a standard Russian room measuring 10-20 sq.m. If the room is larger, then the safety factor can be reduced, if smaller, it can be increased.

If plasterboard is used to improve the insulating properties of a wall, then it makes sense to sheathe it in two layers, in which case the amount of material required doubles. The same rule applies to partitions, because they will have to be sheathed on both sides. Standard Sheet plasterboard has a length of 2.5 - 3 m and a width of 1.2 m, but you can find or order options that are more suitable for you

Necessary tool

Kit necessary tools for cladding gypsum board walls depends on the method by which installation will be carried out. If you decide to finish the walls with plasterboard yourself frameless way, then you will need:

• The material itself;
• Dry gypsum mixture and a container in which you can dilute it;
• Knife, preferably a painter's knife;
• Jigsaw;
• Rubber hammer;
• Tape measure, fishing line and level.

If you plan to install drywall on the frame, then you will additionally need a number of metal structures and electrical appliances:

• Profiles and metal hangers;
• Screws, dowels, self-tapping screws;
• Hammer drill or grinder;
• Screwdriver.

Surface preparation

Before you begin attaching drywall to the wall, these walls must be put in order. The service life of drywall will directly depend on how carefully you carried out preparatory work, so don’t ignore this stage. Otherwise, the sheets may not adhere sufficiently to the wall, and there is every chance of mold or other bacterial growth forming in the gaps, so the walls must first be cleaned of traces of the previous finish and any contaminants.

If your walls have several layers of plaster applied in different time, they must be removed, otherwise it will inevitably begin to fall off over time and sheets of drywall will fall off along with it.

If, after removing the plaster, defects in the form of cracks and chips are discovered, they must be repaired. After this, the walls should be primed with the composition deep penetration and let it dry according to the instructions on the package. You should cover the walls with plasterboard yourself after completely dry surfaces!

Technology of wall covering with plasterboard

Using a frame

This technology for installing plasterboard on walls is based on the use of galvanized steel profiles. Previously, a similar method was also implemented based on wooden sheathing, but today its use in heated rooms is not relevant - the thermal effect negatively affects the wood and after a few years cracks appear on it.

We have already cleaned the walls, all that remains is to protect the electrical wiring and pipes using grooves and crossbars. Then we need to mark the wall, which will be used as a guide. We place marks on the floor and ceiling, retreating from the wall about 4 cm, after which we stretch a rope between them and check the horizontality with a building level.

In accordance with the marks, the guides should be secured, after which the profiles are installed in vertical plane. The profile should be screwed using dowels in increments of 30-40 cm, remember that careful adherence to the markings guarantees a high-quality result. Vertical guides are mounted with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

After we have prepared our frame, it is time to cover the walls with plasterboard with our own hands. Metal screws are used as fasteners for drywall; the sheets are laid in a joint. Self-tapping screws should penetrate the surface of the sheet by 1-2 millimeters, but not push through it.

After fixing the plasterboard in the profile, you need to treat the joints, screw holes and unevenness with putty. Having completed this part of the work, we completely cover the wall with primer mixture and wait for it to dry. After this, the walls are finally ready for front finishing.

Frameless method

This method of attaching drywall to the wall is somewhat simpler to implement, but it has a number of flaws, the main one of which is the requirement for the initial evenness of the walls. As well as in previous version First we prepare our walls - clean and level, putty and prime. Brick walls that have recesses at the joint must be carefully brought into an even appearance.

Now we must decide which side to attach the drywall to the wall - installation is carried out inside with the back side on which the markings are applied. Next, the adhesive solution is applied according to the diagram below on the sheet of material. The glue dries quickly, so be careful when performing such work.

The attached sheet is leveled using a level and supported until the glue has completely dried. When preparing the glue, do not neglect the instructions and prepare it immediately before installing the sheets. If you follow all the recommendations on how to properly attach drywall to a wall with glue, then no problems should arise.

Next, the remaining sheets are installed, followed by putty and priming, as in frame method. We have answered the popular question of whether it is possible to attach drywall directly to the wall, but remember that for use this method It is necessary to initially have fairly smooth walls. But you can save precious space that would otherwise be spent on the frame.

Pros and cons of drywall

Like any other material, drywall is not without strong and weaknesses. These products are characterized by their low cost, lightness and ease of installation, as well as good thermal insulation properties. Some types of drywall produced according to special technology, characterized by high fire and water resistance. By the way, many people believe that when it comes to which side to mount moisture resistant drywall to the wall you need to focus on the color of the side - this is not so, the side on which the groove is formed when the end is positioned at an angle is attached.

To the disadvantages finishing works based on plasterboard include high fragility of the material and poor sound insulation, although the influence of the latter aspect can be minimized using mineral wool, laid between the wall and the sheet, or by gluing the drywall to the wall with foam.