Finishing the finished bath. Interior decoration of the bath: options, choice of style and materials based on type. Prices for heat-resistant tile adhesive

After the construction of the bathhouse is completed, you should think about the interior decoration. This is perhaps the most important work, since it includes heat, hydro and vapor barrier, which will ensure the proper functioning of the building. It is the interior decoration that determines how cozy your bathhouse will be and how pleasantly you will spend time in it.

It is very important to consider step by step each element of the work on the internal arrangement of the bathhouse in general and the steam room in particular. Any mistake at this stage may result in inconveniences in the future that will be very difficult to correct.

Requirements for insulation of a bath room

The most important quality of a steam room is the preservation of hot steam and heat inside the room for a long time. That is why thermal insulation comes first in finishing. There are many methods for such work, but we will consider the simplest and most common ones, which are easy to do with your own hands, without the help of specialists.

When choosing materials for insulation, you should be guided by their safety at the usual high temperatures for a steam room, that is, fire resistance and resistance to sudden temperature changes. The most common materials are mineral wool as insulation and aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. They are highly reliable and easy to use.

Before you begin work on insulating the walls of the bathhouse, you should carefully prepare the surfaces. Carefully examine the walls and ceiling, remove gaps, knots, and roughness. All wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, which will provide protection against fungus and mold.

By insulating and equipping a bathhouse, you will get walls in the form of a so-called “sandwich”, consisting of layers alternating in a certain sequence: a waterproofing layer, an insulating layer, a vapor barrier, and, finally, an internal lining.

Preliminary preparation

As you know, the main thing in a Russian bath is a properly installed stove. It must be built before you begin interior decoration. And in this case, it is better to seek the help of a professional stove maker, who will determine where the hearth should be, set the correct direction of the outlets and build the body.

Installing a traditional brick or stone stove will require special attention to such features as the soil on which the bathhouse is built, the materials used in the construction of the walls, the type of roof, and even the climatic conditions of the area. To make your task much easier, you can turn to modern technologies. In construction markets and in specialized stores there is a huge selection of boilers and stoves, which in their functionality are in no way inferior to a classic stone sauna stove, but compared to it, they are completely safe, and also economical and easy to use.

Such a heating device will not require any special skills from you; you can install it yourself, or with the help of a specialist, quite quickly and without subsequent removal of accumulated construction waste. Manufacturers provide customers with a complete set of necessary equipment and additional devices.

After the stove is installed, install the electrical wiring, provide its insulation and the necessary terminals, and then proceed directly to the interior decoration.

More about skin layers

Insulation of the walls of a bathhouse, and especially a steam room, should begin with a layer that provides waterproofing. It will help avoid condensation on external walls when in contact with hot air and constant temperature changes. Particular attention should be paid to any possibility of dampness affecting the walls: the occurrence of mold and mildew not only has a detrimental effect on wooden surfaces, including rotting, but can also have a harmful effect on your health.

The materials most commonly used as a waterproofing material are foil or polyethylene film. You should pull evenly measured parts of the material from the roll, leaving allowances of about 10-15 cm, carefully stretch the film or sheet of foil to avoid tears and damage, and secure them using a construction stapler. At the junction of individual sheets there should be an overlap of 10-15 cm, which will not allow moisture from the outside to enter the gap and settle on the insulation layer.

After the waterproofing of the walls, floor and ceiling is completed and all possible gaps have been sealed, proceed to install the insulating layer. To begin with, sheets of clean, thoroughly dried paper are attached to the surface. To minimize the loss of hot air, the sheets should be fastened with a sufficiently large overlap.

After this, a pre-fabricated frame is installed on the insulated surface. For it you will need wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 X 50 mm, properly impregnated with an antiseptic. The width of the step between the beams must exactly match the width of the roll of material that is used.

A few words about the choice of thermal insulation material. In the modern construction and repair market you can find a lot of options of different properties, quality and price category. But still the most common and in demand is mineral wool. Synthetic soft slabs are also gaining popularity. These inorganic materials are durable, fire-resistant, are not subject to moisture absorption and subsequent rotting, and are also not of interest to small rodents and insects.

We install a heat and vapor barrier layer

The thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material directly depends on the design of the insulated surface. It should be noted that the floor of the bathhouse, both wooden and concrete, is insulated using a certain technology, and this work is labor-intensive enough to devote a separate article to it. Now we are considering the insulation of the walls and ceiling of a traditional wooden bathhouse.

The ceiling is subject to much more thorough insulation than the walls, so the layer of mineral wool on it should be twice as thick.

This is due to the fact that the hot air in the steam room rises, and it is through the ceiling that maximum heat loss occurs.

So, the frame previously made from beams is installed on the surface and carefully secured with screws or bushings. An even piece of insulating material is placed in the space between the beams. It should lie tightly, without free spaces or overlaps. The edges of the material are secured using a construction stapler.

So, to install the vapor barrier layer you will need:

• Aluminum foil in the required quantity;
• Thin slats for sheathing;
• Small wallpaper nails or a construction stapler;
• Scotch tape or adhesive tape.

For vapor barrier, it is preferable to take foil with a thickness of 65 microns. This is a material that is optimal in density and strength and is easy to work with.

First of all, you should prepare the sheathing. Since the room of the bathhouse and steam room is small, it will be easy to make the lathing by stuffing slats to the frame of the heat-insulating layer.

After this, sheets of foil are secured to the sheathing using wallpaper nails or a stapler. At the same time, they should be well, but not too tightly, and carefully aligned. The overlap of the sheets on each other should not be more than 5 cm. Since the vapor barrier layer must be continuous, the sheets are connected with tape at all joints.

The main condition for the materials used: they must be environmentally friendly, and when exposed to heat and moisture they must not emit foreign odors of a chemical nature.

This is why such common building materials as roofing felt, roofing felt or glassine are not used in the interior decoration of bathhouses.

Steam room interior lining

• After the “sandwich” of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier is ready, we will proceed to the final stage - cladding the walls and ceiling in the room using lining. Traditionally, natural wood is chosen for cladding, mainly hardwood, such as linden, maple, aspen and alder. These materials are optimal in quality, properties, and besides, their price is low. Softwood boards can release resin when exposed to heat, which is unpleasant for the skin. If, after all, the pine aroma in a bathhouse is very important to you, then choose cedar. It has high density and low resinity.
• The high density of wood will provide resistance to high humidity and protection from rotting;
• The lowest content or complete absence of resins;
• The surface of the board must be absolutely smooth, without gaps or knots;

On the installed vapor barrier layer, install a frame made of bars, which will hold the lining on itself. After this, hammer the boards one by one, carefully adjusting them using a wooden hammer. For fastening, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, the main condition is that the caps must be buried in the surface, so that later lovers of bath procedures do not get hurt in the process.

Typically, the location of the lining during cladding is horizontal or vertical. The vertical method is simpler and can be used in any direction. When using the horizontal method, the lining should be filled from the bottom up to prevent water from getting into the joints and grooves.

Most often, the lining is fastened flush. To do this, grooves are cut on each board and overlap each other. This will provide a tighter fit, which means protection from moisture and temperature changes for the insulation layers and the inner surface of the lining.

Video about the interior decoration of the bathhouse

After all the stages of arranging your bathhouse are completed, the final touch remains - creating a comfortable and cozy interior. This is an excellent opportunity to show your imagination, so that later your vacation will give you exceptional pleasure, and bath procedures will be not only aesthetic, but also health-improving. We wish you a light steam!

Building a bathhouse is only half the battle. It is important to properly equip it from the inside: complete the finishing, install the stove, arrange the furniture, etc. High-quality finishing of the premises will make bath procedures truly soulful and as enjoyable as possible.

Traditionally, a bathhouse has several rooms with different humidity and temperature levels; accordingly, there are a number of restrictions on the use of certain finishing materials.

Room. Conditions	Recommended materials	Materials that are undesirable to use for finishing
Steam room. High temperature and humidity.	1. Tree. Finishing with paired wood lining is considered a classic. This material is best suited for finishing walls, floors and ceilings. Requires treatment with special impregnations (wood in a steam room cannot be coated with varnish or paint that is not natural). 2. Stone. It is often used for cladding the wall behind the stove, while simultaneously serving as a fireproof cut. The solution is practical, durable, and quite original. 3. Salt panels. Ideal material for medical procedures. Illuminated salt blocks will pleasantly transform your steam room. But it is better to use this material in saunas with electric stoves, because direct contact with water and excessive humidity have a detrimental effect on the material. 4. Facing brick. Can be used to cover the wall behind the stove. Goes well with wooden wall paneling. 5. Porcelain tiles and ceramic tiles with a non-slip surface for finishing the floor and/or wall behind the stove. Recommended as a finishing coat for screeds with insulation. It is better not to lay tiles on a wooden base in a steam room. 6. Mosaic. Traditional material for finishing hammams. It is not often used in Russian and Finnish baths.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. 3. PVC panels for covering walls and ceilings. 4. Ceramic tiles are glossy (slippery). 5. Ceiling tiles of all types. 6. Plaster.
	1. Porcelain tiles and tiles with an anti-slip surface, mosaic. Recommended in combination with elastic anti-fungal moisture-resistant grout. 2. Natural or artificial stone. 3. Wood impregnated with antiseptics and water-repellent compounds. The service life of the shower is quite short. The best type of wood for finishing a shower room is larch. 4. Moisture-resistant drywall. It is used for the construction of partitions, as a base for laying tiles. Plasterboard can be used to protect laminated timber walls from moisture. It is permissible to paint GVL with moisture-resistant paint, but this option is short-lived. 5. PVC panels. A good option for finishing walls and ceilings, provided that waterproofing is properly organized. Finishing wooden walls with plastic panels is permissible only after complete shrinkage. 6. Moisture-resistant plaster. The finishing can hardly be called budget; additional waxing is required. It is possible to bring unique patterns to life by choosing the right structure and shade of the composition.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum.
	Any available materials are suitable for finishing.	It is not recommended to decorate the wall bordering the steam room with wood or plastic. It is better to use facing brick, stone, decorative plaster.

Let's look at several ways to decorate the inside of a bathhouse.

An example of finishing the ceiling of a recreation room with clapboard

Lining is used very often for wall decoration. These can be expensive panels made of cedar, larch or more budget-friendly ones made of aspen and linden. Often, bathhouse owners combine different types of wood; the finish is unusual and very beautiful. It is better to use pine lining for covering the dressing room; in a steam room it is not the best choice.

A combination of lining from different types of wood for finishing walls and ceilings

They fasten the lining vertically or horizontally, and also lay out patterns from the slats, fixing it to the sheathing beams. A foil vapor barrier must be used. But it’s difficult to surprise anyone with such a finish.

If you have a sufficient amount of free time and material, some diligence and accuracy, pay attention to method of installing lining in a herringbone pattern.

Step 1. Calculation of lining. Calculate the area of ​​each wall in the steam room separately (you need to multiply the length of the wall by its height), sum up the results. You don’t have to subtract the area of ​​the doorway, since it is necessary to provide a supply of material, taking into account the scraps.

When purchasing lining, pay attention to the label - manufacturers indicate the number of panels in the package, as well as the area of ​​the finishing material. Divide the total area of ​​your steam room by the area of ​​one package and get the number of packages that will be needed for finishing.

If there is no information on the label, you will have to measure the length and width of each panel without taking into account the width of the tenon, and then calculate the number of panels for finishing. It is better to purchase material with a reserve.

Important! Do not use lining with knots to finish the steam room. The density of the knots is higher than the density of solid wood; when heated, the knots will fall out.

Step 2. Preparing the lining for installation. Unpack the purchased lining and store it in a heated room. You can begin finishing in two days.

During this period, prepare your workplace and tools:

• jigsaw or circular saw;
• level, plumb line, tape measure, protractor, square, pencil;
• finishing nails, hammer;
• wooden plinth for floor and ceiling;
• mallet.

Step 3. It is better to fasten the lining with the tenon facing up. Based on this, we mark out the panels.

The herringbone can be angled up or down.

The photo shows the herringbone laying method with the corner pointing down.

Cutting must be done at an angle of 45 degrees. The ends of the panels should be on the sheathing bars. For convenience, you can make a template and mark according to it.

Step 4. We start attaching the paneling from the top. We fix the first panel with finishing nails all the way through. If the bathhouse is wooden and has not yet shrunk, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 cm between the ceiling and the casing, which will be covered with a plinth.

We insert the second panel with a tenon into the groove of the top panel, precisely aligning the ends of both panels. We fasten with a clamp. We insert the clamp into the groove, hammer three finishing nails into the holes of the clamp through a hammer. One panel will require at least two clamps, depending on the length of the lining.

We continue fastening from top to bottom until we reach the floor. Here it is also worth leaving a gap of up to two centimeters. Lastly, we attach triangles cut from the lining at the top and bottom, fixing them through with nails.

We install the next row in the same way, but we change the direction of the lining.

After installation, cover the panel joints with a thin wooden plinth, fixing it strictly vertically with finishing nails.

There is another way to lay the “Christmas tree”. The technology is similar to laying parquet. The lining is sawn into rectangular planks. Laying is carried out with a shift equal to the width of the panel without taking into account the tenon. Fixation is done with clamps or construction staples.

Herringbone wall covering method

Prices for lining

Method of installation of lining "rhombus"

It is better to use boards rather than timber as sheathing. This will simplify the installation process. The method is applicable for both wall and ceiling finishing.

Step 1. It is necessary to draw a rhombus with angles of 30 and 60 degrees. We draw a straight line between the 30 degree angles, dividing the rhombus into 2 triangles. We cut the paper blank, transfer the drawing to the lining so that a spike is located on two faces of the diamond. We cut out the workpiece. Connect two triangles to form a rhombus. We fix the diamond with finishing nails right through to the sheathing (two nails for each triangle, we do not drive the nails all the way in).

Step 2. We take a whole panel of lining. We apply it to the diamond, connecting its tenon to the groove of the board. We make markings on the board for cutting.

We draw a straight line to the spike. On the tongue of the paneling we draw a line perpendicular to the board itself, continuing the pencil markings to the other side of the tenon of the panel.

We saw the board according to the markings. To do this, turn the paneling over with the pencil markings facing down, and place the edge of the circular saw on the line marked on the tenon. Turn on the saw and make a cut.

We take the second clapboard board. We apply it with a groove to the rhombus (on the edge where there is no spike). We mark for cutting, maintaining the accuracy of the angles. We check with a protractor and a long ruler. We saw according to the markings.

Advice! It is more convenient to connect the initial elements on a table or on the floor, nailing the wooden elements with finishing nails to a piece of FSF plywood.

Step 3. We continue to work. Rush is unacceptable. It is important to accurately mark and cut and join the corners. We mark or number each element to make it easier to install on the wall or ceiling in the future.

Step 4. When the decorative element reaches the desired size, you need to remove the nails and disassemble all the panels that were assembled on the table.

Let's assume that insulation and vapor barrier have already been completed, the sheathing has been filled. Using a level and a tape measure, you need to find the place where the center of the diamond will be. Accordingly, the center can only be located on the plane of one of the beams or sheathing boards. We nail the central diamond to the sheathing, driving the finishing nails into the tenon. For convenience, it is better to use a hammer to avoid breaking the lining with a hammer.

We attach the following lining boards to the central element, adjust them with light blows of the mallet and fix them in the same way.

Assembling a rhombus on the ceiling. When the decorative element is fixed, further cladding can be carried out parallel to the fixed panels or perpendicular

The joints of the rhombus can be covered with a thin wooden plinth, nailed through with finishing galvanized nails.

On a note! By placing lining panels in different directions, combining lining from different types of wood, you can create an interesting pattern that will turn a simple steam room into a work of art. “Elite class” wood is considered to be cedar, fir, ebony and mahogany, rosewood, Canadian hemlock, African oak, pear and elm, and eucalyptus.

When the cladding is completed, impregnate the wood with a protective compound.

Video - Finishing premises with clapboards, the result of laying boards in different directions

Video - Ceilings made of lining

Mosaic wall decoration

If the walls of the bathhouse are wooden, you cannot, of course, put tiles or mosaics on them. Moisture-resistant plasterboard will serve as the basis for the mosaic. This material is quite hard, does not deform in conditions of high humidity, does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, that is, it is completely safe.

A frame for plasterboard is similar in structure to a frame for lining. To equip it, we will prepare 50x25 mm and 75x25 mm antiseptic timber, galvanized screws, perforated corners. We will mark using a tape measure, a plumb line and a level.

The timber must be antisepticized yourself or purchased material that has already been treated. Store timber indoors

Step 1. We fasten the beam under the ceiling with self-tapping screws (if an interior partition is being made, then the upper beam must be attached to the ceiling). Using a plumb line, we make markings on the floor for attaching the bottom beam. They must be in the same plane.

Step 2. We fasten the lower beam to the wall with wood screws.

If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, fastening is done with dowels through pre-drilled holes in the wall.

Step 3. We measure the distance between the upper and lower bars, this will be the length of the vertical posts. We cut the timber with a jigsaw or saw. We install the first rack in the corner of the room. We attach the stand to the upper and lower beams with perforated corners and self-tapping screws.

Step 4. At equal intervals we install the following racks in the same way. We check that the racks are in the same plane.

Step 5. We cut the timber to a length equal to the distance between the posts. Using corners and self-tapping screws, we secure intermediate jumpers between the posts.

Prices for moisture-resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

Frame made of metal profiles

Step 1. Using a laser level, we check the verticality of the wall. We set the level on the floor and use a tape measure to measure the distance from the wall to the beam in different places.

Step 2. If the differences are significant, we knock down the protrusions with a hammer drill. We remove debris and dust. We repeat the plane check operation again.

Step 3. Using a rule and a pencil, draw a line on the floor (we move away from the wall by about one and a half centimeters). The profile will be located along this line. We fasten the PN 50x40 profile to the floor with dowel nails.

Draw a line along which the profile will be located

Step 4. We insert vertical guides (PN 50x50) into the lower fixed profile and fasten them to the walls (in the corners of the room) with 6x60 mm dowel nails.

Step 5. We attach the PN profile to the ceiling. The upper and lower profiles must be located in the same plane. If the length of the room exceeds the length of the profiles, we make a joining, that is, we insert one section of the profile into another with an overlap of up to 40 cm.

We insert the profile into the vertical guides. Be sure to check the horizontality of the top guide; to do this, insert a vertical profile in the center and apply a level.

If necessary, we move the upper profile a little and only then fix it with self-tapping screws to the ceiling. We install fasteners at intervals of 50 cm.

Important! The installation of electrical wiring, pipes and other communications must be completed before finishing work begins.

Step 6. Installing intermediate profiles. We fix the ends at the top and bottom with self-tapping screws and a press washer. We take the distance between the profiles taking into account the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet. For example, from the outermost post we fix the next two at a distance of 40 cm, and install the fourth post so that its center is at a distance of 120 cm from the first (corner) profile.

Step 7 We check the position of the vertical posts with a level and begin fixing the profiles with hangers.

We insert the suspension between the vertical profile and the wall. Using a marker, mark the points for drilling holes. We drill holes with a hammer drill, insert dowels into the holes, attach hangers and fix them with self-tapping screws.

We bend the shelves of the hangers, screw in the “bug” screws to attach the hanger to the profile.

First we attach the hangers in the center of the profiles, then the rest. The vertical step between the hangers is approximately 50-60 cm.

On a note! To prevent the vertical profiles from shifting or rotating along their axis during the installation of the suspensions, we fasten them with a horizontal profile, screwing it with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Step 8 We install jumpers. We mark the profiles for cutting. According to the markings, we cut the profile with a grinder.

We stretch the cord horizontally and, according to this marking, fix the jumpers with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Installed jumpers. They are necessary if the size of the plasterboard sheet is smaller than the height of the walls

On a note! Use magnetic screwdriver bits. This will simplify and speed up installation.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame

Let's look at an example of installation on a metal profile frame. Installation of sheets on a wooden frame is carried out in the same way; the joints of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. Direct contact of drywall with the floor should not be allowed; plastic pads will be placed under the sheets. Also, you should not attach the sheets tightly end to end; it is better to leave a gap of 1 mm between the edges for ease of puttying.

For cladding we use sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard 12 mm thick. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The pitch between the screws is approximately 15-17 cm. We screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern.

First, we fasten the sheets along the perimeter, then along the line of vertical profiles. We draw a vertical line according to the level and make fastenings along this line. We recess the screw caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Prices for metal profiles

Puttying seams

The joints of the sheets must be puttied using a mesh and moisture-resistant putty. If the drywall edges have a hand-cut edge, chamfer it at a 45-degree angle with a sharp knife. A primer is applied to the joints. The mesh is embedded in the putty mixture. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with sandpaper.

Mosaic wall decoration

To fix the mosaic on the walls of the bathhouse, it is better to use moisture-resistant glue, for example, Ceresit CM 115.

Step 1. Prepare the glue.

The room temperature should be from +5 to +30°C. The recommended water temperature for the adhesive mixture is from +15 to +20°C.

Gradually add the dry mixture to the water. For 1.5 liters of water, 5 kg of mixture is required. Mixing is done with a construction mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment. The speed of the drill or mixer should not exceed 400-800 rpm. After the first mixing, pause for 5 minutes and repeat mixing.

Advice! You should not prepare a lot of glue at once; the time of its use is limited to 20-30 minutes. Do not dilute the finished glue with water. If it thickens slightly, you need to stir the mixture well.

Step 2. Apply glue to the wall. We start gluing the mosaic from the upper left corner. Scoop up a little glue with a regular spatula and apply the mixture to the edge of a notched trowel. Distribute the glue evenly over the drywall.

Step 3. Unpack the mosaic, take one fragment and press the mesh to the glue. Carefully straighten so that there is an equal distance between the elements. Roll the entire fragment with a roller or wide rubber spatula.

It is important to lay them level so that the rows are even. The area of ​​applied glue should not greatly exceed the size of one fragment.

You can only cut the mesh; it is not recommended to deform the pieces of ceramics or glass themselves.

Step 4. 24 hours later (or more, depending on the speed of drying of the glue) after laying the mosaic, we grout it. To fill the seams we use a moisture-repellent composition with antifungal properties, for example, Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic.

For 2 kilograms of dry mixture you will need 640 ml of cool water. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer at a speed of up to 800 rpm. Gradually pour the dry mixture into the water. After mixing, take a five-minute break and repeat mixing the grout. The finished solution must be used within two hours. It is unacceptable to exceed the specified amount of water, so as not to deteriorate the properties of the grout.

Apply the grout to the mosaic with a rubber spatula, spreading it diagonally. After 15-20 minutes, remove the excess with a damp (but not wet) sponge or rag. We remove the remaining grout from the surface of the mosaic with a dry rag.

You can decorate a shower room or dressing room entirely with mosaics, or combine this finishing material with ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Soapstone chlorite is highly valued by bathhouse attendants for its beneficial properties. The stone accumulates heat well, cools down for a long time, and the vapors emanating from soapstone have a healing effect on the body.

Soapstone is used to decorate stoves and walls in steam rooms, but nothing will prevent you from decorating, for example, a relaxation room in a bathhouse or a shower room with tiles made from this stone.

Soapstone is available in various variations - tiles with a smooth or textured surface, mosaics and even bricks. Manufacturers offer baseboards, borders and corners made of soapstone as additional elements. If you are finishing the wall in a steam room, you will need heat-resistant stone adhesive (used for lining stoves and fireplaces), and when lining a shower room it is better to use moisture-resistant mixtures.

The surface on which the tiles will be laid must be flat and pre-primed. The tiles are laid from the bottom up, keeping the rows horizontal. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel and the tiles are carefully pressed against the wall. Laying is possible both end-to-end, that is, without gaps between adjacent elements, and under jointing. The second method is suitable for tiles of regular shape and with a smooth surface. Cutting tiles is done with a grinder with a diamond blade. The joints are grouted with a heat-resistant stone mixture.

The combination of soapstone tiles with different textures looks quite extraordinary.

A combination of smooth soapstone tiles and tiles with a torn stone texture

Prices for soapstone

soapstone

Video - Extraction and processing of soapstone

Video - Technology of gluing decorative stone

Remember - finishing the inside of a bath should not only be exclusive, but also practical. It is important that finishing materials do not contribute to the development of mold and mildew, are easy to clean, safe for health and as durable as possible.

Having completed the construction work on building a bathhouse on your personal plot, you need to think about the interior decoration of the room. This is quite a serious job, but if you approach it correctly, then the interior decoration of the bathhouse (we will also try to show it to you in pictures) will seem like an exciting process.

Selecting material for wall decoration

Of course, the most important decision in this work will be the choice of finishing material. At the same time, you should not stop at one type of wood - a combination of different types of wood will bring special charm and comfort to the bathhouse. Also, when choosing a finishing material, you need to know its properties. Otherwise, staying in the bathhouse will bring disappointment instead of pleasure.

For finishing dressing rooms, rest rooms and other rooms that are not in contact with high temperatures, you can use pine. This material is quite cheap, easy to process and has a beautiful structure. It is highly not recommended to use pine in steam rooms, since when the wood is heated, resin is released, which will constantly cause a lot of inconvenience. As a rule, the steam room and washing room are decorated with linden or larch. This material retains color perfectly and, moreover, even in the hottest bath, touching the casing is impossible to get burned.

It is important to immediately think about where the shelves will be installed and where accessories for bath procedures will be placed. After all, they are the most important elements of the ancient ritual of ablution and are of great importance. But you should not pile up bath equipment, especially if the room is small, otherwise the risk of injury when visiting the bath increases.

Bathroom wall decoration

Interior decoration in the bathhouse is not carried out with all types of wood. Moreover, there should be no linoleum or particle boards in the bathhouse. These are flammable materials that become toxic when heated, which is hazardous to health. Alder, larch, birch, aspen, poplar, cedar, abashi or linden are excellent for these purposes. Such wood does not heat up too much even in very hot rooms, since it has low thermal conductivity. No resinous substances are released from it, and after bath procedures everything dries quickly.

Wood for interior decoration of a bathhouse is not coated with paints or varnishes, since when heated, these chemical coatings will certainly begin to evaporate, poisoning the air and negatively affecting the human body.

Most often, the walls in the bathhouse are covered with clapboard. This process should occur after the walls are covered with mineral insulation and a layer of aluminum foil. Alternatively, foil tepofol. It performs the same functions, but is much more practical and easier to install. All this will seal the room.

It should also be taken into account that the lining should not be closely adjacent to the layer of foil or insulation. An air gap should form between them. This is what happens, because the lining is mounted on a pre-installed timber sheathing.

The beams (yards) are installed on the walls parallel to the floor at a distance of about 50 cm from each other. They use a level. After installing the frame, it is coated with an antiseptic. Before installation, the same is done with the lining. Begin laying the lining from the corner. Fastening is carried out using nails, staples or clamps.

If you fix the lining in the places of the locks with nails, they will remain invisible.

Bathroom floor installation

Once you have chosen the materials for the interior decoration of the bath, you can begin to work. The finishing process begins with the floor, which is mounted on joists.

The logs must be laid on brick pillars, which are installed on a sandy or concrete base.

The size of the log is 200x200 or 250x250 mm, the laying step can be chosen close to 1 m, since the load on the floor will be minimal. Floor boards are used tongue-and-groove or edged. It should be noted that in order to retain heat in the steam room, the floor in it must be at least 150 mm higher than the floor in the washing room.

The material used is hardwood boards about 30 cm thick. Both joists and floor boards are coated with an antiseptic to prevent the growth of fungus and mold.

If the use of wooden floors is allowed in rest rooms or locker rooms, then this is not recommended in the washing and steam rooms of the bathhouse. These places are constantly exposed to hot water and steam, so the wood will quickly become unusable. In addition, a wooden floor will always be dirty as it is very difficult to clean.

Therefore, ceramic tiles would be the ideal material for finishing the floor in a steam room. Due to the fact that hot air rises, the temperature at floor level remains close to 30 degrees, which means it will not bring any discomfort. To prevent your feet from slipping on the tiles, you can build small wooden grates, which after bathing procedures are taken outside to dry in the fresh air.

The floor in the bathhouse is made with a slight slope (1:100) and equipped with a drain so that excess moisture does not stagnate.

Shelves in the bath

Any bathhouse must have shelves and benches on which you can sit or lie. As a rule, they are made in a round shape - this type is the most convenient and aesthetically pleasing. But the main requirement that is presented is their reliability and strength: the shelves should not creak or wobble. The material is softwood, which does not contain resin pockets and has a light and pleasant odor. You can make shelves yourself or buy ready-made ones in specialized stores. If you are wondering what the interior decoration of a bathhouse should look like, the photos below will demonstrate this.

The surface of the lining and boards for finishing the shelves is carefully cleaned and sanded so that it becomes perfectly smooth. Boards or clapboard are attached to pre-installed timber posts. The materials are nailed onto the seats with a small gap so that moisture does not stagnate and the wood dries well. For fastening, either wooden pegs or nails are used, which are driven in deeply so that touching them does not cause a burn.

The shelves in the bathhouse are arranged in two or three tiers. This is the so-called stepped design. The second option is an L-shaped arrangement of shelves: one wall has two steps, the other has only one. The “compartment” option, when the top shelf is located above the bottom, like on a train, is good for small spaces.

The dimensions of the shelves in the bathhouse depend on the size of the room. On average it is up to 2 m in length and 60-90 cm in width. From the top shelf to the ceiling there should be at least 1 - 1.20 m, from the top step to the middle and from the middle to the bottom - 0.4-0.6 m.

Ceiling decoration in the bathhouse

The material used for finishing the walls is also used for the ceiling. Since the temperature under the ceiling will be as high as possible, the material for finishing it should contain a minimum amount of resins. If you ignore this requirement, then the cost of the interior decoration of the bathhouse can increase significantly after the first steam bath. “The miser pays twice,” which means that the lining of the bathhouse ceiling will have to be changed. To avoid having to do this, immediately choose high-quality materials - pine and spruce are definitely not suitable for a steam room. But in the dressing room they can be fully used.

Washing compartment in the bathhouse

The modern washing compartment in the bathhouse is a regular shower stall, equipped with a pair of shelves for storing various small accessories. When decorating the interior of a bathhouse with your own hands, and especially if we are talking about the washing compartment, you should use moisture-resistant materials. These are tiles for walls, self-leveling floors or tiles for floors. These options for finishing the washing room are the most durable and practical. To prevent slippery walking on such floors, use wooden stands or rubber mats.

Installation of lighting in a bathhouse

A bathhouse is a rather dangerous facility in terms of electrical safety, so the maximum permitted voltage supplying electric lamps should not exceed 12 W.

Most often, incandescent lamps and fiber optic systems are used in baths. LEDs are not entirely practical in this case, since they do not withstand high temperatures well.

Lamps used to illuminate all rooms must be hermetically sealed to prevent moisture from getting inside. The wires are laid under a layer of thermal insulation and are carefully insulated beforehand. Switches must be placed outside the steam room. Electrical wiring should be laid and secured to the walls and ceiling before the interior finishing of the bathhouse is completed. This is done in order to hide the wires from mechanical damage or destruction under the influence of hot steam and prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures. If the wires are laid on the surface, then they are hidden in a special box.

For baths, there are wooden lampshades that diffuse light. Lamps are placed in the bath on the sides under the ceiling or along the entire wall.

In some cases, lamps are placed under the backs of the seats: the back is also a decorative grille for the lamp. There should not be many lamps so that the light does not hit the eyes.

Fiber optic lighting systems for saunas emit beautiful diffused light. These lamps are safe because the lamp itself (projector) is located outside the steam room, and only light-conducting optical fibers are located in the steam room.

With the help of such a device you can create the most unimaginable lighting options in the bath and color combinations. Do you want the starry sky, do you want the northern lights, do you want the flame of fire. Such lighting is also economical and durable.

If you watch how the interior decoration of a bathhouse is carried out in the video, you will already know exactly what is being done and how. The whole process is quite labor-intensive, so you need to prepare well, study all the stages, select the right materials, and then proceed to the interior decoration of the bathhouse. The price for such work will no longer be of interest to you, since you can do everything yourself. What you get as a result will delight both you and your loved ones for many years.

The bathhouse is an amazing place to relax and recuperate. Therefore, it should not only be hot, but also comfortable. Every owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article we bring to your attention some tips on how to set up a house, the interior decoration of which is no less important a stage than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bathhouse yourself, then this article will be useful to you. Here you will find professional instructions on different types of finishing, step-by-step photos of important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your problems at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of construction technologies when performing cladding, cladding, etc.

Finishing the inside of the bathhouse is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bathhouse, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bathhouse and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bathhouse requires the presence of several rooms:

• vestibule;
• steam room;
• washing room

If you have built a large bathhouse, then it is quite possible to equip it with an additional recreation room, a billiard room, a kitchen area, a playground, a swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bathhouse, equipped with everything that seems necessary and useful to you. However, this does not in any way affect the basic defining requirements for a bath:

• all premises should have an attractive and practical design;
• the steam room should have hot and pleasant steam;
• the washing room should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a great influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior finishing, it still needs to be done in the bathhouse. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for a comfortable stay, and will also significantly extend the service life of walls, floors, and ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. Read below about how best to finish a steam room, washing room, vestibule.

When planning the decoration of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam flowing in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature changes, heating to high temperatures;
• High humidity levels.

The conditions in the steam room can be said to be extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern wide range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose an option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the cladding board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, ability to warm up quickly and not accumulate heat;
• Moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no resins when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. It is characterized by low cost. But its characteristics are not high enough for finishing a bath.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, and resin pockets. This class includes material on which there are no more than four knots for every 1.5 m of length;
• A-class. Shallow cracks may be present. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding price. The color is uniform, there are no cores or knots.

The most common profiles are eurolining, tongue-and-groove, Softline, Shtil.

Linden lining shows excellent results as interior decoration for a bathhouse. Its density is quite low, so it does not heat up very much in a steam room. At the same time, it does not release resins. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

Lining made from other types of wood is also suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing a particular material for cladding, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, high-quality processed, and free from nicks, knots and other obvious defects. High-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

The material for covering the steam room does not require additional treatment with special means. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before you start covering it with clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. She is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It copes more successfully with exposure to high temperatures, so it will last slightly longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then we cannot help but recall cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, and fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is intended not only to take a shower and wash properly at a comfortable temperature. The washing room should have a place to relax so that you can leave the steam room for a while and pamper yourself with a massage, face and body masks and other relaxing and pleasant treatments. It is necessary to think through all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be made taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If you can choose among deciduous wood for the steam room, then only coniferous wood is suitable for the washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very simple to explain this choice. Coniferous wood is resinous and has high water-repellent properties. Therefore, in washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood and will last for many years, maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of materials for finishing the floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is prepared from concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bathhouse, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washing room can be completely wooden, but ceramic tiles as the main finish are a more practical and durable option. It copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all rooms of the bathhouse. This is the most important aspect that must be taken into account when choosing finishing materials. Any type of wood can be used for vestibules and other rooms. But don't limit yourself to using wood. For high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms, other materials are also suitable:

• Porcelain tiles;
• Plaster;
• Natural stone;
• Fiberglass wallpaper;
• Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of bathhouse premises. For example, the combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. A do-it-yourself bathhouse will allow you to turn your non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, photos of which are presented on this page, will help you choose the optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bathhouse must withstand high temperature loads, and also cope well with streams of hot, humid steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam using heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them airtight, their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material is thinner, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. When exposed to high temperatures, this material releases substances that are toxic to humans and is therefore unsuitable for use in bathhouses.

Each joint between the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is taped with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is punctured, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole should be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden ceiling to the external contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• Two-millimeter stainless steel sheet;
• Galvanized box;
• Tie clamp.

The ceiling is cut mainly to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling. In addition, in this way, the chimney elements receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

A 400x400 mm box is installed from the attic side. A stainless steel sheet 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, on the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is covered with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the service life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the box contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention instructions that will help you cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is lathed with 2x4 cm slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening the panels begins from one of the walls. The first plank is aligned with the groove facing outwards. The tenon of another panel is driven into it. The order of connecting the tenon and groove can be changed, it is not important.

When performing sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material carefully and carefully without damaging it.

• Using special clamps, secure the planks. The clamps are attached to the rail with screws or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time required to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps of up to 2.5 cm between the sheathing and the wall. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps, just nail the ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with nails with inconspicuous heads. Such nails must be driven in at an angle, and the head must be firmly driven into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing must be carried out along strictly vertical lines. After each installed panel, a level check is required. If you don’t have a level at hand, you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of measurements diverge, then the lining must be tamped so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the cladding will turn out uneven and sloppy. Tapping is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove using a mallet or hammer to adjust the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness using another method. The wooden overlay is fixed and sharp wood chips are driven under it.

The only material suitable for covering walls in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tiles, etc. In the vestibule and rest room, you can create original ensembles by combining various materials.

Cladding walls with clapboard

According to the main parameters, wall covering with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling finishing.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step – 80-100 cm.
• You need to put insulation in the recesses between the bars. For example, mineral wool. It is cut into appropriate pieces with a sharp knife. There is no need to compact the insulation.

Note! All work with mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

• Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulating corner joints.

• Remember to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the spacer. The sheathing is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the sheathing must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, slats for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. To make it easier to align the horizontal slats, string can be stretched between the vertical slats near the ceiling and floor.

• Separate bars need to separate the door area and the window;
• Now you can proceed directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls without getting stuck in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the tenon of the panel should be directed upward so that moisture does not collect and remain in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by attaching the boards to the ceiling. The lathing in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with clamps, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you use screws or nails, insert them at an angle, driving the heads deep into the wood. There should be ventilation gaps of about 2 cm between the ceiling and the casing, the floor and the casing.

A common problem that people encounter when cladding bathhouse walls on their own is the need to cut the material. This is not difficult to do. You can cut the paneling with a fine-toothed saw or jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the required size and secured to the sheathing. The next wall begins with a panel whose ridge is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last batten of the previous wall. In the corners, elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angles before cutting the strip or panel. Draw a pencil line on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no joints left in the corners of the panels.

The most important point when performing finishing work inside the bathhouse is the insulation of the stove. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. If the stove is located close to the wall, the mineralite should be laid in two layers. If there is at least 40 cm between the stove and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all rooms of the bathhouse, except the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the actual execution of the work.

Preparatory stage

Preparation of concrete or cinder block walls involves removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparing wooden walls involves performing waterproofing. Using a construction stapler, roofing felt and roofing felt are nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which concrete mortar is thickly placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail down an even beam. It will become the basis for finishing. Instead of timber, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal ones, use a building level. For vertical ones, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in a bathhouse

You can prepare the mortar for fixing the tiles yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also purchase a ready-made mixture. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes. Before laying, the tiles must be placed in water to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will stick to the mortar much better.

Work starts from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially carefully, because it is this that determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the neatness of the entire cladding.

The glue is placed on the back of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. The glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the glue protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber hammer.

It is important to maintain equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you have laid adjacent rows, secure special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will allow you to maintain the same gap both in length and height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After this, you can remove the level and grind the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is removing grout residues, cleaning the tiles and giving them a final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles you can realize your wildest creative fantasies. You can lay it flat, diagonally, offset, or patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or design, then it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where each tile should be located. This will allow you to flawlessly complete the cladding and give your bathhouse a truly original and unique look.

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bathhouse is finishing with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design that is environmentally friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will also work.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• The mastic is spread thickly on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than regular ceramic tiles;
• We apply the slab to the wall, press it down and level it;
• We continue to work in the same order with the remaining slabs;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after installation is completed, you can begin processing the seams. It is made with heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water until the consistency of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied using a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not get on the slabs themselves or other surfaces.

Working with a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If grout does get on the tiles, do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It's better to wait a little until the grout dries. This way you can carefully scrape it off.

• The direction of grout application can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to jointing, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After this, you need to walk along the seams with a finger wearing a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bathhouse does not require additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying begins from one of the corners. In this case, perfect evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bathhouse is sloping towards the drain. But it’s still worth marking the approximate location of the tiles on the floor level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• Using the teeth of a spatula, a pattern is imprinted on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection to the tile;
• The tiles are being laid out. During operation, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget to form a slope! The tiles for the first row must be dry. It is advisable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;