Finishing door and window slopes with plasterboard. Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes - an easy way to clean up How to make plasterboard slopes on doors

Finishing door and window slopes with plasterboard.  Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes - an easy way to clean up How to make plasterboard slopes on doors
Finishing door and window slopes with plasterboard. Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes - an easy way to clean up How to make plasterboard slopes on doors

Installing new windows and doors is perhaps the first thing new apartment owners do. Often they are ordered which are quite expensive due to their quality of construction. Therefore, after installation, you don’t want to spend additional money on slopes. Therefore, the search begins for self-production options. In this regard, plasterboard door slopes will be a good solution to the problem.

Drywall is a dry gypsum mixture sandwiched on both sides with sheets of construction paper. The advantage of this type of manufacturing is the ease of working with the material. It can be easily sawed, cut and shaped in any other way.

Among other advantages, the most notable are:

  • Cheapness. Treating a slope with drywall is cheaper than using plaster.
  • Environmental friendliness. Drywall is essentially plaster. A material that has been used in construction for centuries. Gypsum mixtures were used back when there were no non-ecological materials in principle, so it simply cannot be toxic.
  • Easy finishing. Drywall is good for its perfectly flat surface. With sufficiently high-quality installation, the resulting slopes will be perfectly smooth, even for beginners. For the same reason, it is quite easy to apply paint or wallpaper to the resulting surface.
  • Many installation options. Drywall has been on the construction market for quite a long time. This made it possible to develop several installation methods from professional to amateur. Everyone can choose the most convenient option for themselves.

The material has quite a lot of advantages, so it makes sense to at least consider it as a finishing option. Another advantage of drywall is the ease of replacing the coating.

At the same time, there are quite a lot of drywall options on the market. For slopes, finishing sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used. Particular attention should be paid to the location of the slopes. If the material will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is better to choose moisture-resistant drywall. But even this option is better not to use for external slopes of an external door. Still, drywall is more suitable for interior surfaces of the house.

Slope finishing methods

Do-it-yourself methods for finishing plasterboard slopes can be divided into two subtypes:

  • Frame
  • Adhesive

Each option has its pros and cons. Therefore, it makes sense to talk about each point separately.

Frame

Frame plasterboard involves mounting sheets on metal guide rails. The advantages of the method are obvious:

  • Fastening reliability
  • Ease of sheet alignment
  • Easy finishing

There are also a number of disadvantages:

  • It is difficult for a beginner to install the guides correctly. There is almost no need to level the sheet when the frame is already ready. It is enough to tighten it with self-tapping screws to the structure. But installing the frame itself is a rather labor-intensive task. This is especially true for frames for slopes. But such a mount will be more reliable.
  • The space around the door is reduced. For Khrushchev-era apartments and small-sized apartments, this option may not be suitable. The frame “eats up” additional space, which is especially visible on the slopes of small doors.
  • In damp rooms, drywall will sooner or later deteriorate. There are options for moisture-resistant sheets, but it is better not to take risks and use other materials and technologies for door slopes to the bathroom and toilet.

For frame installation, metal slats are installed. When installing each longitudinal guide, be sure to check it with a level. The guide is mounted on self-tapping screws and is gradually leveled by tightening the fasteners. Careful work is especially important at this stage, since it is difficult to install the sheet unevenly on a ready-made frame. But you can make a mistake with the installation of the frame itself.

Every 60-70 cm, transverse ones are attached to the longitudinal guides. This gives additional rigidity to the structure. Separately, it must be said that with this installation method, a gap appears between the wall and the slope. It is also advisable to cover it with a small strip of sheet. The final finishing is best done with plaster. This will look quite neat and at the same time hide the screws that secured the drywall to the main structure.

Adhesive

The glue method is in many ways simpler than the frame method, but it goes without saying that the glue will not be as reliable and technologically advanced. There are no special compositions for drywall. Polyurethane foam or putty is used. At first glance this seems unreliable, but numerous applications of experience have confirmed its justification.

The advantages of this method:

  • Easy to install
  • There is no need for special skills to create a frame
  • No need for constant monitoring of guides

Separately, it should be noted that rarely does anyone succeed in gluing the slopes evenly. Curvatures are removed at the finishing stage.

The method also has a number of disadvantages:

  • You will have to attend to preliminary surface finishing. It is better not to glue drywall onto an uneven brick or concrete wall.
  • You need to think about the possibility of soaking drywall. Therefore, we are talking not just about leveling the rough surface, but about finishing it with rough plaster.
  • The fastening is not as reliable as mounting the frame

In any case, gluing slopes has a right to life. The method has already proven itself as an option for beginners and amateurs in the construction industry. If a person does not carry out repairs on an ongoing basis, then making slopes with an adhesive composition will be an excellent option for the home.

Nuances of preparation for installation work

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening the slopes, there are a number of rules that must be followed so as not to spoil everything in the initial stages.

  1. The first step is to clean the rough surface as much as possible. If you are going to attach the slopes to an untreated surface, you will have to go over it with a vacuum cleaner or a broom. And it’s better to do both. It is necessary to remove as much dust and dirt as possible from the structure.
  2. The second step is getting rid of moisture. It is advisable to install slopes in the warm season. First of all, this concerns the slope of the entrance doors. In these places, the walls are most susceptible to condensation. You won’t be able to dry the wall; you just need to make sure there is no condensation. If there is one, you will have to make a frame or wait for the summer. This does not apply to internal brothers-in-law
  3. The last thing you should worry about when preparing for installation is purchasing materials. Using a tape measure, you need to take measurements and estimate the required area of ​​​​the sheets. It is better to increase the number of calculated materials and fasteners by 20%. It is extremely inconvenient to purchase something after the installation has begun.

To avoid problems with cleaning after finishing work, it is better to cover all surfaces with film. This is especially true for the door leaf. Without such forethought, it will take a long time to wipe off the dust.

Separately, it is necessary to say about the method using putty. You can cheat a little and not rough-treat the surface, but then you will have to worry about additional insulation, and the putty itself will need large amounts. We'll talk in more detail about how to do this a little later. At the preparation stage, you just need to worry about priming the surface.

Options and instructions for installing plasterboard slopes

Each installation option has its own characteristics and nuances. After choosing a method, you should familiarize yourself with it in more detail before starting to install the slopes. It is better to prepare all the tools in advance, as well as cut out the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

Depending on the method chosen, different tools and materials will be required. In any case, you need:

  • Drywall
  • Self-tapping screws
  • putty

For installation using the frame method, you will additionally need guides and a grinder. For the glue method, you need polyurethane foam or the same putty.

In order to correct possible irregularities, you need to purchase metal corners. The point of the corners is that they do not need to be aligned. They are attached to the sheets using self-tapping screws, after which the corners are covered with putty.

On polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam has a wide range of possibilities in terms of correcting defects during the installation process. Let's look at step-by-step instructions for installing slopes with your own hands:

  • The first step is to get rid of the depressions on the rough surface. Each depression more than a centimeter deep must be filled with foam, after which the excess is cut off with a knife.
  • The space between the door casing and the wall is also filled with foam. Irregularities are cut off with a knife.
  • Slopes are cut. This is done using the same stationery knife. Using a ruler, draw a line on both sides of the sheet; the dry mixture crumbles with a simple blow. Forming plasterboard sheets is quite simple. The main thing is to do everything smoothly and carefully so as not to knock off excess amounts of the mixture.
  • At the next stage, it is better to use the help of a second person. Polyurethane foam is applied to the back of the slope. The sheet is glued to the surface, after which you need to hold the slab for some time so that the foam sets. You can use a T-shaped support. At the setting stage, the position of the slope is leveled using a level.
  • Small cracks are covered with putty. After the finishing treatment has set and dried, you can cover the slopes with paint or wallpaper.

Putty is more reliable than foam, but this method is a little more expensive, since you will need many times more adhesive. The first step is approximately the same: the surface is leveled, after which putty is applied to the slope. The putty is simply “dropped” from the spatula without leveling it over the surface.

If, when using glue, the rough surface was not covered with plaster, a sheet of foam plastic is placed between the slope and the wall. Without any fastenings, the insulation is simply glued into the space between the slope and the wall.

On the frame

To install the frame, guides are mounted. These are two metal slats along the slope and a transverse partition every 50 cm. The slats are attached using self-tapping screws. The guides are aligned by tightening and loosening the fasteners.

After installing the frame, you don’t have to worry about leveling the drywall. Mineral wool insulation can be placed inside the frame. When working with mineral wool materials, it is necessary to use a respirator.

Features of final decorative finishing

There are three options for the final finishing of plasterboard slopes:

  • Putty. Such slopes create the appearance of a classic plastered surface.
  • Wallpaper. In a way, the wallpaper protects the corners of the drywall. But this makes no sense if the corners are covered with metal tapes and putty. The last option is even more reliable.
  • Dye. Painting is the most beautiful and most reliable option.

What to choose is ultimately decided by the owner. The final finish is a matter of taste. We can only add that any of the options will not be a problem. Drywall lends itself easily to any finishing.

There is nothing difficult about installing plasterboard slopes with your own hands. The main thing is to properly prepare for installation and do everything extremely carefully.

Slopes are the internal walls of a window opening. In most cases, these surfaces are arranged with a slight slope towards the room. When replacing double-glazed windows, the slopes are usually damaged. Restoring damaged surfaces with plaster is not convenient in all situations, so more and more often owners are choosing slopes made of plasterboard. This material allows you to avoid all the difficulties and inconveniences characteristic of plastering work.

Construction of slopes using plasterboard can be done using adhesive and frame methods. Study the basic information about the work ahead, familiarize yourself with the features of both methods, choose the option that is convenient for you and get started.

What do you need for work?

First of all, you need to prepare sheets of drywall suitable for such work. The best option is moisture-resistant material with a thickness of 12.5 mm.

ThicknessSizeSquareWeight
12.5 mm1200x2500 mm3 sq.m28.9 kg
12.5 mm1200x2700 mm3.24 sq.m31.2 kg
12.5 mm1200x3000 mm3.6 sq.m34.7 kg

If you choose the method of attaching drywall to the frame, buy the appropriate UD and CD profiles. Fix the profiles using screws and dowels. If you use the gluing method, buy special adhesive for drywall. On average, about 5 kg of adhesive composition is used for 1 m2 of drywall. The specific value is determined individually in accordance with the brand of adhesive used and the condition of the surface to be finished.



Additionally, you will need sealing tape.

The set of tools is standard. Prepare the following equipment:

  • Bulgarian Needed for cutting metal profiles. If you don’t have a grinder, you can get by with scissors for cutting metal;
  • perforator;
  • knife for cutting drywall sheets;
  • metal square;
  • measuring tape;
  • building level.

Preparatory activities

First of all, take all your measurements. When preparing sheets of material for decorating slopes, leave slight allowances.


It is extremely difficult to ensure an absolutely level base in the areas where the finishing is installed, so it is better to take extra material and then cut off the excess, rather than discover that part of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire surface of the slope.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing slopes with plasterboard, perform preliminary preparation of the surface to be decorated. Be sure to remove the existing layer of plaster coating.


If the gluing method is used, the surface must be carefully leveled. For this you can use an ordinary one.

When using the frame method, preliminary alignment can be abandoned in most cases. It is enough just to get rid of the crumbling areas of the plaster coating.

Treat the base with an antifungal agent.

After completing all preliminary measures, you can proceed directly to fastening the plasterboard sheets using the chosen method.

Frame method of finishing slopes


When using this finishing method, work should begin with the arrangement of vertical decorative elements.


First step

Attach guides along the edges of the window opening perpendicular to the floor. At this stage, use the UD profile. Fix with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-50 cm.

If the guide is attached to the frame of a plastic window, be sure to place a sealing tape between the profile and the surface of the glass unit. It will prevent the profile from freezing in cold weather.

Second step

Install CD guides perpendicular to the UD profiles.

Third step

Sew up the frame with sheets of plasterboard.




Fourth step

Proceed to finishing the top of the opening. The work is performed in a similar order.

If the window slope has a shallow depth, it is best to attach the guide profile on three sides - on the finished finishing elements and on the double-glazed window frame.

After completion of the work, there will be approximately a centimeter gap between the trim sheet and the outer part of the lintel. Fill it with special glue for working with drywall.


Finish the slopes at your discretion. Usually they are puttied or painted.

Glue method for finishing slopes


The adhesive method of finishing slopes with plasterboard is more difficult to implement compared to the previously discussed method. To perform such work efficiently, you need to have some skills to accurately ensure the slope of surfaces.



Finishing should begin with fixing the upper slope. In this case, it will take on the functions of a “guide” for the correct installation of the side elements.



Parts according to the dimensions of each side of the slope and glue them to a previously leveled and dried surface.


In most situations, the adhesive must be applied in a continuous layer. If the surface of the base is flat and you need to reduce the drying time of the glue, apply the adhesive composition in wide strips. Level the finishing sheets. While the glue dries, install pre-prepared supports. The specific drying time for the mixture is indicated on the packaging. Be sure to clarify this point separately.


Finishing work

Drywall slopes need to be given a more attractive and aesthetic appearance.

First of all, smooth out all the bulges that appear at the points where the adhesive mixture was laid, using a special trowel for working with drywall. Level the recesses with putty.

Cover the leveled and dry surface with primer. If necessary, apply a double coat of primer.

If desired, the slopes can be painted. Painting compounds are best applied using a brush or a special roller that can give the surface a beautiful rough structure.

The best paint option for finishing drywall is water-based compositions. Select the required number of paint layers to achieve the desired shade individually.



At this point you can finish working with the slopes. Additionally, you only need to trim and plaster the space under the window sill.

By qualitatively decorating window slopes using plasterboard, you will receive a decorative finish that is excellent in its external characteristics, and will also save time and budget. The finished finish will fit perfectly into any interior and will serve for many years without losing its original quality.

Composition of Ceresit CT 42:aqueous dispersion of acrylic
copolymer with mineral
fillers and pigments
Density:OK. 1.47 kg/dm3
Application temperature:from +5 to +35°С
Impact resistance
rainfall:
in 3 hours
Water absorption of painted
surfaces:
no more than 0.5 kg/m2 h0.5
Abrasion resistance:at least 5000 cycles
Ready to apply
coatings:
in ~6 months
Consumption of Ceresit CT 42:0.2 – 0.5 l/m2 (depending on the nature and color of the base)

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Video - DIY plasterboard slopes

Repair of window openings does not end with the installation of double-glazed windows. The final stage is the formation of slopes. The most popular material options are considered to be plaster, plastic and drywall.

Using the latter has some advantages over other types of finishing.

Features of drywall

Typically, the design of slopes with plasterboard is chosen by people who want to carry out repairs on their own without the involvement of experienced specialists. The result is an aesthetically pleasing window with slopes. This is due to some advantages of gypsum boards.

  • Thermal and sound insulation properties. If you want to further insulate the room, you can install double slopes with special insulating material.
  • Light weight, which allows you to make only a frame for installation without additional reinforcement.
  • A perfectly flat surface when using gypsum board sheets promotes faster finishing.

  • The ability of drywall to “breathe”, that is, when there are temperature changes or changes in humidity levels, there is no need to worry about deformation of the sheets.
  • Environmental Safety. Even in combination with other additives, slopes do not emit harmful gases into the environment.
  • The result is minimal waste.

However, you should also take into account the disadvantages of the material during installation work:

  • it is necessary to handle drywall with care during repairs and avoid any damage;
  • It is necessary to additionally protect the surface from high humidity, since even moisture-resistant material will become vulnerable after some time when exposed to moisture.

Depending on the room where slopes need to be installed, choose a material of a certain type:

  • at an average level of humidity in the room (up to 70%), standard drywall is suitable;
  • in conditions where humidity is more than 70%, gypsum plasterboards with antifungal and hydrophobic additives are used;
  • in conditions of increased fire hazard, gypsum plasterboards with additives such as fiberglass and mineral wool are suitable; this option is used extremely rarely, but its equally important advantage is its high strength to mechanical stress.

Slope construction

Indoors, ordinary drywall is used to design slopes. If this is a wet room, it is necessary to make slopes from moisture-resistant types of plasterboard. The thickness of one sheet is 1.2 cm. The installation of slopes from plasterboard allows you to seal joints and insulate the room, to obtain an aesthetic and presentable appearance of the window.

The advantages of installing slopes include speed, low cost, low labor intensity, obtaining symmetry of the window opening and insulation, and the disadvantages are a decrease in light transmission.

Preparatory stage

Installation of slopes is possible only after preliminary preparation. This process is the same for door and window openings. However, in the first case special attention should be paid to some points.

  • Availability of communications - cables, wires. They need to be laid out correctly.
  • Possibility of installing an additional door. It may be needed if the first door is without insulation and there is no sound insulation.

Preparation for installing slopes on window openings is as follows:

  • Initially, you need to prepare your workspace. In order to be able to approach the window comfortably, nearby objects must be covered to protect them from moisture and dirt, since installing plasterboard slopes is a “wet” job.
  • The base of the window treatment is cleaned for good adhesion of the glue. Therefore, using a brush, remove from the surface everything that peels off over time, falls off, falls off, and then is washed with water. The result is an absolutely clean base, which is carefully primed.

Tools and materials

Required tools and materials:

  • drywall;
  • adhesive solution;
  • soil mixture;
  • fasteners;
  • thermal insulation materials;

  • spatulas;
  • attachment drill;
  • construction knife;
  • water;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • metal profiles.

Measurements and work with the opening

Taking window measurements correctly is very important. It is advisable to measure the depth of the window opening twice on each plane to ensure their evenness. If the values ​​diverge, you can take the width of the slope equal to the largest value. But each panel must be the same size.

If the slopes are located at a certain angle, then they should be equal on both sides.

To get the exact dimensions of the side panels, you can first make corner templates from gypsum board.

For installing window slopes and finishing doorways, general rules apply.

Operating procedure:

  • the distance from the door jamb, window frame to the corner is measured, this procedure is done at least three times;
  • the height of the stand and the horizontal length are measured, in each section the measurement is carried out separately;
  • all values ​​are transferred to paper, and a drawing of all elements is made.

Uncover

Drywall is easy to cut, the process includes:

  • the required dimensions are transferred to the gypsum board;
  • the ruler is applied to the drawn line and drawn along it with a knife;
  • I put a beam under the trim and with a few blows along the edge the sheet is broken, and the bottom of the cardboard is simply cut off;
  • uneven areas are cut with an electric jigsaw or hacksaw.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself slope installation can be done in several ways:

  • using polyurethane foam;
  • installation on putty;
  • installation on a frame;
  • glue method.

Using one of the methods, you can do the installation yourself for all types of bases.

Polyurethane foam

One of the fastest and easiest procedures for installing slopes is the use of polyurethane foam. It can also be used for small gaps between the window opening and the slope corner. But it must be remembered that in this case it is impossible to make a mistake with the amount of materials, as this will lead to deformation of the coating.

A certain order of laying slopes from gypsum board sheets is used:

  • Surface preparation.
  • The container with polyurethane foam is thoroughly shaken. It is best to use compounds that are applied with a construction gun. But with a small surface area you can do without them.
  • The composition is applied in a thin layer to the back side of the parts to be glued.
  • The part is applied to the surface and immediately comes off again.
  • After 10 minutes, the element is finally applied to the surface vertically, then horizontally, and again vertically.
  • After one day, you can begin finishing.

This option is considered optimal if you have to install slopes in a short time. In this case, the foam will serve as an adhesive and insulation, since it can be used to replace mineral wool.

Installation on putty

The option with putty is chosen when they want to make the slopes more reliable and durable.

Operating procedure:

  • thorough surface preparation, mixture preparation;
  • applying the solution to the reverse side of the part over the entire area of ​​the panel;
  • installing the element on the surface, making sure that it sticks well. For better adhesion, the base is sprayed with water to moisten it. And for reliability and strength of fixation, spacers are installed.

  • each fragment is installed on the surface, after which it is left for two days for better setting of the solution and the base;
  • finishing.

The result is a reliable coating.

This method is suitable for installing slopes on entrance and internal interior doors made of plasterboard.

Frame mounting

This method allows you to obtain a practical surface, but it is important to know that the material is secured with screws or dowels. Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to some rules, for example, screws should be tightened without a recess on the surface, but flush.

Creating the sheathing:

  • it is necessary to arm yourself with wooden beams or metal profiles;
  • segments are cut from the guides, the dimensions of which were obtained from measurements;
  • if necessary, the frame can be insulated with mineral wool;
  • drywall elements are installed only after the sheathing has been created;
  • Self-tapping screws fix all parts to the surface.

This method is suitable when the installation of slopes is carried out in combination with the cladding of adjacent walls. When working with doorways, its size will decrease slightly.

Glue method

This installation method, at first glance, seems simple, but there are some difficulties, for example, it is necessary to maintain the angles of inclination when gluing the elements. The adhesive method is recommended to be used when there is a need to maintain the original dimensions of window openings.

The advantages of the adhesive method include:

  • speed of execution;
  • minimum amount of materials;
  • Before painting the surface, it is enough to just putty the slopes.

Slopes made of plasterboard sheets are coated with glue. To prevent the adhesive from spreading after pressing the element to the surface, apply the adhesive in a continuous layer to the drywall.

To prevent the upper parts from falling off while the glue dries, use spacers that rest against the window sill or the floor, and fix the plasterboard parts with the other end.

After installing the slopes, it may be necessary to seal the joints. In this case, acrylic sealant will come to the rescue, which helps protect the cracking of the seams. It can be given the desired shade with acrylic paint.

Design of slope corners

The gap between the wall and the plasterboard sheet is plastered. The resulting seam is treated with reinforcing tape or mesh, and then puttied.

The corners are reinforced with a perforated corner, which is secured with a stapler.

Finishing

Finishing is necessary to give the structure a presentable appearance. For this process you need to purchase putty and paint. And you can also install profiled metal corners to prevent premature wear of the corners made of plasterboard sheets. For this purpose, perforated protective parts are installed on the corner slopes. To avoid voids and unevenness, the adhesive composition is applied in a thin, uniform layer, as when working with slope elements.

Slopes mean the front part of a window or doorway. After installing a window or door, it must be sealed for several reasons:

  • give the window (door) an aesthetic appearance;
  • isolate the room, in the case of a window or front door, from street noise, cold and moisture;
  • ensure a smooth transition from the window (door) to the wall;
  • hide wall defects in a window or doorway: recesses, gaps, cracks, etc.

There are several types of material with which slopes are sealed: cement-sand mixture (plaster), plastic and plasterboard. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which we summarize in a table.

The effectiveness of finishing slopes with various materials.

PlasticGKLPlaster
Complexity of technologyAverageAverageHigh
Labor intensityLowLowHigh
Aesthetic appearanceAverageHighHigh
Price of finishing materialsHighLowAverage
Cost of workAverageAverageHigh

When choosing a building material, consumers arrange their priorities along a chain: the price of the material, the ability to do the work themselves, and its appearance. Based on this, an undeniable advantage of drywall.

We’ll talk about how to make slopes on plasterboard windows.

Materials and tools for work

In practice, there are many ways to seal slopes with plasterboard. But all of them are based on 4 basic technologies:

  1. glue landing;
  2. fastening to a rigid frame made of metal profiles;
  3. simultaneous use of a metal profile and glue (combined or mixed method);
  4. fastening with polyurethane foam.

To complete the work you will need the following materials and tools:

  • plasterboard - moisture resistant (there is always high humidity in the window area), at least 12 mm thick (subject to significant mechanical loads, unlike the ceiling);
  • Perlfix glue in the form of a dry gypsum mixture (can be replaced with ready-made gypsum-based putty);
  • primer for treating walls and gypsum boards before painting;
  • gypsum putty;
  • water-based paint or acrylic enamel;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • mineral wool for slope insulation;
  • acrylic or silicone sealant for sealing joints;
  • guide profile NP (UD), size 28×27, attached to the window sill and the top of the opening;
  • ceiling profile PP (CD) with a section of 60×27. Serves as a frame for gypsum boards;
  • metal L-shaped profile;
  • self-tapping dowel 6×60 mm (8×80 mm) for installing NP guide profiles;
  • “bug” hardware (9 mm) for connecting the guide and ceiling profile;
  • hammer drill or electric drill - necessary when using frame elements;
  • grinder or hacksaw for cutting metal profiles;
  • self-tapping screws 35 mm long. They are used to fasten sheets of plasterboard with sheathing;
  • screwdriver with a cross-shaped tip;
  • metal perforated plaster corner;
  • construction knife;
  • level;
  • construction pencil;
  • roulette;
  • set of spatulas;
  • glue container;
  • paint brush.

The above list is standard. For each method of constructing slopes, those materials and tools that are required in a particular situation are selected.

Preparatory work

With any method of sealing the window space of the opening wall, it is necessary to prepare for the installation of slopes. At the preparatory stage, the following work is performed:

  • excess foam is removed at the junction of the frame and the wall. The window structure is installed on plumb lines and fixed with mounting foam, which, when expanded, goes beyond the planned limits. It must be removed so that it does not interfere. To do this, use a knife blade to carefully trim the foam parallel to the frame profile. The pieces are removed with a spatula. There is no need to be afraid to remove something unnecessary - when installing the slope, new foam will fill the voids that appear;
  • The walls of the opening are cleaned of dirt, debris, and insulation residues. Protruding nails and screws are removed. Deep holes and cracks are sealed with plaster mortar or putty;
  • The window opening is carefully inspected. If there are areas with mold or blackening, work is carried out to remove them - the plaster or part of the wall is knocked off, after which an antiseptic composition is applied;
  • Using a knife and spatula, remove part of the protective film from the frame to a width of 1-2 cm from the edge - its presence disrupts the putty process.
  • the wall and drywall are primed to ensure better adhesion to glue or putty;
  • Pencil marks for fastening the drywall sheet are placed on the window sill, frame and top of the slope. In this case, it is necessary to ensure the verticality of the slope and the so-called “dawn” - the divergence of the slope towards the room for better passage of the light flux. A square and a level will help with the work.

Many specialists' preparatory work includes measuring the window opening and cutting drywall sheets to match the obtained measurement results. In our opinion, there is no need to rush. Measuring the width and height of the window opening can be done during the work process. After all, it is difficult to take into account how many centimeters the window opening will drop after installing the upper slope (always installed first).

Materials and tools are available, preparatory work has been completed. It remains to provide instructions on how to make slopes from plasterboard.

Finishing gypsum board slopes with glue

The easiest way to install slopes is to glue them to the wall. No power tools are needed here, and during the work it is impossible to break or damage anything except a small piece of plasterboard. The method can be used in a wooden house and attic windows - it is universal.

The work is carried out in the following sequence: first, the upper slope is installed, then the side slopes.

  1. The top of the window opening is measured. A sheet of gypsum board is cut out.
  2. Glue or putty (preferably finishing compound) is applied to the cut out part along the perimeter and a little in the middle.
  3. The sheet placed against the wall moves slightly from side to side so that the glue enters all the smallest pores of the wall material and sets.
  4. The glued slope is fixed with stops - at least two are installed.
  5. The glued sheet is left until the adhesive mass dries completely.

If the installation distance between the frame and the wall exceeds 3 cm, then strips of gypsum board 4-5 cm wide are first glued to the wall. The space between them is filled with mineral wool. The slopes are glued.

Finishing gypsum board slopes on frame

Slopes for plastic windows made of plasterboard can also be installed in the classical way - on a frame made of metal profiles. This method of constructing slopes is used only when the walls are sheathed with gypsum boards. This allows you to create a common frame for the window opening and walls. The intricacies of the technology when working independently can be seen in the article: “”. Let us briefly recall the essence of the method:

  1. The width and height of the opening are measured. Guide profiles (NP) are cut along the width, ceiling profiles (PP) are cut along the height;
  2. Alternately, guides are placed on the window sill and the upper part of the opening and drilled (the operation is necessary to obtain marks for future dowels);
  3. holes are drilled according to the marks, after which dowels are driven into them;
  4. guides are installed;
  5. a PP profile is attached to the fixed profile using “bug” self-tapping screws;
  6. Drywall is cut to the size of the slope;
  7. the space between the profile is filled with mineral wool or foamed with polyurethane foam;
  8. The gypsum board is screwed to the resulting frame with hardware.

The method has pros and cons. The positive aspects include the speed of the process, as well as the compatibility of leveling walls with gypsum boards. There is only one drawback: the opening space is reduced, which is completely undesirable when installing slopes at the door.

Mixed method

You can also install window slopes made of plasterboard yourself using a combined method, which has several interesting varieties.

1. A metal L-shaped profile is attached to the window frame (see photo) and immediately lubricated with acrylic sealant. After this, a plasterboard slope is placed along the marks on the frame and window sill and secured with self-tapping screws - in a vertical position, the gypsum board sheet is held with sealant.

After screwing in the screws, the space between the wall and the slope closest to the window is filled two-thirds with insulation (mineral wool). The remaining part of the empty space is covered with putty or glue.

2. A PP (CD) ceiling profile is taken and cut to the height of the slope. On the floor, drywall is laid on it, also cut to height (it should be larger in width). The gypsum board is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm. The resulting structure is turned over or placed vertically.

A damper tape is inserted into the PP groove. The corner of the window opening is foamed with a small layer of foam. The slope together with the profile is pressed into the foam close to the window frame. The vertical is checked with a level. If necessary, the protruding side is slightly knocked down with the handle of a spatula or a rubber hammer.

Then everything is the same as in the first option: insulation and glue (can be replaced with putty or foam). After the adhesive has dried, use a knife to cut off the part of the drywall protruding into the room flush with the wall. The work is done quickly and without complications.

Is it possible to plant slopes on foam?

The simplest options for facing slopes are discussed above. However, there is another one, the most difficult to perform - fastening drywall with foam. The technology itself is easy to understand. Problems arise when planting a slope on foam - as it expands, it complicates the process of fixing a sheet of drywall in the desired position.

They resort to it when there are narrow gaps between the wall and the frame (up to 3 cm) and there is a need to insulate the window between the profile of the window structure and the wall material - the foam simultaneously functions as insulation. The method is also good for correcting the curved surface of the wall of a window opening.

Let's look at the whole process step by step.

  1. All holes and gouges in the wall of the opening are sealed - if this operation is ignored, the drywall may fail in these places. Use foam, cement-sand mortar or starting type of plaster.
  2. After the holes and potholes are completely dry, polyurethane foam up to 1 cm thick is applied to the back side of the gypsum board using a snake.
  3. The slope is placed against the wall and pressed against it with force - the foam should adhere to the wall material.
  4. A sheet of drywall comes off. If everything was done correctly, the foam remains on the wall. After 10 minutes it will begin to expand.
  5. After the process of foam expansion begins, the gypsum board is again pressed against the wall and fixed with spacers.

Here it is important to set the slope correctly according to the geometry. If necessary, the sheet can be pressed in a little by tapping it. The main thing is not to overdo it - you won’t be able to squeeze it off the wall, since the foam does not have the properties of rubber.

Final work

Having installed slopes on plasterboard windows with your own hands, regardless of the method of their installation, you need to perform several finishing operations:

  1. seal the joints with sealant;
  2. strengthen the outer corner of the slope;
  3. putty the surface of the drywall;
  4. paint.

Sealing joints

The joints of the slopes with the window sill, frame and among themselves at the top (internal corners everywhere) are sealed with sealant. There is no consensus on its type. Some experts opt for the waterproof acrylic option, while others choose the silicone one. Both sealants are waterproof and very flexible, which keeps the joint from cracking.

The seam must be laid before puttingty, although many specialists perform this operation before painting. With the second option, the sealant is clearly visible, while the putty hides it.

Strengthening external corners

GCR has one drawback - a very weak edge. Any mechanical impact on the outer corner leaves marks. The problem is solved by mandatory reinforcement of the corner with reinforcing material. Sometimes “serpyanka” is used for these purposes. Experience shows that a metal perforated corner holds the geometry of the reinforced corner more reliably. The operation is performed in several stages:

  1. the perforated corner is cut to size;
  2. Putty is applied to the slope and wall in small portions. The layer must be continuous and can extend onto the slope to any depth;
  3. place a corner on the corner and lightly tap it with the handle of a spatula;
  4. Using a long level, the vertical of the newly formed angle is checked. If necessary, adjustments are made to its geometry;
  5. the putty protruding through the perforation is rubbed with light movements of medium width with a spatula.

For information: in some materials you can find a recommendation to fasten the plaster corner with a construction stapler. Firstly, this method is only suitable for a plastic plaster corner, and secondly, you cannot attach a corner to a brick or concrete wall with a stapler.

Putty

Immediately after installing the plaster corner, the slopes are puttied. Ready-made gypsum putty is best suited for these purposes. It is applied to the slopes and rubbed with a wide spatula. If you want the paint to adhere better, puttying is done twice. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried. Its thickness should not be more than 1 mm.

After the second layer has dried (after 24 hours), the surface of the slopes is sanded with an abrasive mesh or fine-grained (P 100 and above) sandpaper.

Coloring

Slopes are finished mainly with white water-based paint. Other colors are also used, in accordance with the design decision. For these purposes, it is better to buy acrylic enamel rather than water-based emulsion. If there is no ready-made solution, and you are tired of the old slopes, you can look for a hint on the Internet.

Important: before painting, it is advisable to prime the base of the slopes.

Pros and cons of plasterboard slopes

Using drywall to seal the slopes of a window or doorway has a number of advantages:

  • simple installation, accessible to performers without special knowledge and experience;
  • the service life of the installed slope coincides with the service life of the window structure;
  • low costs for the purchase of basic and additional materials;
  • the material is environmentally friendly, can be installed in any room (children's room, bedroom, etc.);
  • allows for additional insulation of windows and doors;
  • minimal care required;
  • nice appearance.

Experts include the following disadvantages of slopes made of gypsum plasterboard:

  • the need to completely replace the slope when swelling - cannot be repaired;
  • the ability of the cut edge of a plasterboard sheet to absorb moisture on the window sill that collects there when the windows fog up, as a result of which the slope can swell.

Conclusion

The simplest and cheapest way to install slopes is to install gypsum board sheets on the walls. They can be attached with glue, polyurethane foam, or placed on a metal sheathing. In practice, these methods are rarely used in their pure form; in most cases they are combined.

The whole process consists of several stages:

  1. excess polyurethane foam remaining after installing the window is removed;
  2. the wall of the window opening is cleaned of dirt, insulation residues, mold and blackening;
  3. markings are applied to the window sill and the top of the opening;
  4. walls and drywall are primed;
  5. slopes are cut to size, after which they are attached to the wall in one of the possible ways;
  6. the joints of the slopes with the window sill and frame are sealed;
  7. the outer corners of the slopes are reinforced with a metal plaster corner;
  8. drywall is puttied;
  9. Slopes are being painted.

Video on the topic



After installing metal-plastic windows, there remains a final, but very important procedure - finishing the slopes. The fact is that the role of slopes is not only to create a harmonious and aesthetic appearance of the window and the room as a whole. Slopes take an important part in creating the correct operating conditions for windows made of metal-plastic, and accordingly contribute to creating comfort in the house. In this article we will talk about how to properly make slopes from plasterboard.

What you need to know about window slopes and what they are used for


The window itself has certain technical and physical characteristics, including thermal conductivity. But in order for the window to provide you with them, you must also ensure the correct installation of the window itself and the correct arrangement of slopes. As they say, slopes on windows are a delicate matter, and even with your own hands.

After the metal-plastic window is installed correctly (observing the necessary gaps, fastenings, etc.), one more condition must be met - a correctly executed installation joint - the place where the window frame adjoins the wall. This joint must have appropriate thermal conductivity and prevent the development of “cold bridges”. Simply put, it should be warm.

The window, together with the joint, is an element of the external wall, one of the functions of which is to protect the interior from unfavorable external temperatures. If in winter it is -20° outside and +20° indoors, then the difference in these temperatures levels out somewhere in the thickness of the wall - this is the so-called “dew point”. It is different in different wall designs and different climatic conditions.

Without going into the thermophysical characteristics of walls and materials, you need to remember that the installation joint must be airtight and the slope must be warm. The first thing to do is to protect the joining seam from the outside. The polyurethane foam used to seal the joint is hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, and is destroyed when exposed to direct sunlight. Thus, over time, its thermal insulation properties are very seriously reduced (initially, foam is not insulation, this is its positive advantage when used correctly). The simplest and most practical thing to do is to plaster the seam on the outside. And then you can start finishing the interior of the window slopes, specifically the joint, i.e. to the device.

Drywall window slopes

One of the best options for window slopes is slopes made of gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard sheets). The installation of slopes using plasterboard allows you to simultaneously solve the issues of sealing the joint and its insulation. And also get a high-quality and aesthetically attractive window look. We will talk further about how to make slopes from plasterboard.

Advantages:

  • rapidity;
  • availability;
  • non-labor-intensive process;
  • it is easy to obtain the correct window geometry;
  • slope insulation.

Flaws:

  • slightly reduces the light opening.

Required materials and tools:

  • moisture-resistant plasterboard;
  • Perlfix plasterboard adhesive (can be replaced with gypsum putty);
  • acrylic sealant (silicone can be used) or liquid plastic;
  • insulation: mineral wool or polystyrene;
  • primer;
  • putty for puttying the slope;
  • plastic L-shaped profile (for method 1);
  • self-tapping screws;
  • perforated plaster corner (optional);
  • tape for sealing joints (serpyanka);
  • supports for fixing the top panel;
  • knife (breadboard) for cutting drywall;
  • putty knife;
  • level;
  • roulette.

Manufacturing of slopes from gypsum plasterboard

The production of slopes consists of the following stages: preparatory, direct installation of plasterboard panels, finishing of slopes. In this article we will talk about how to make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands and without much expense.

Preparatory stage

How geometrically correct the window opening will be depends on this stage. And this can significantly improve or worsen the appearance of the room.

Window opening measurements and drywall cutting

It is very important to take correct window measurements. The window opening is carefully measured; it is advisable to take two measurements of the depth of the opening on each of the planes in order to make sure that they are even. If not, then the width of the slope should be taken equal to the largest value. The width of all panels should be the same.

If the slopes go at an angle, then these angles should be equal on both sides. For convenience and precise installation of the side panels, you can make a special template for this corner from plasterboard or polystyrene.

In order not to miss the size, the panel blanks can be made larger than the width of the slope and cut in place after installation. But, if the inner wall is curved, then it is better to make exact measurements of the width of the slope. They will then serve as beacons for leveling the wall around the opening.

In order to neatly make the upper corner of the slope, the top panel is inserted behind the side panels.

Preparing the window opening

Using a knife, cut off the mounting foam that extends beyond the plane of the window frame. Clean the surfaces from any remaining foam, old plaster or paint. Be sure to prime the wall planes for better adhesion to the glue.

Installation of slopes

There are three main methods for installing gypsum plasterboard slopes.

Method one - using an L-shaped profile to join the plastic frame

Advantages:

  • lack of joint between plastic and plaster;
  • easy and quick installation.

Flaws:

  • If the slope is not white, then it is difficult to choose the right profile.

The first method uses a plastic L-shaped profile. It is attached with self-tapping screws to the edge of the frame.

To fix the drywall sheet, sealant is squeezed into the profile. Insulation is attached (glued) to the slope on the side of the window. It is convenient to use mineral wool, but you can also take polystyrene foam or polystyrene, giving them the desired shape.

Drywall adhesive is applied to the other part of the slope. Drywall is inserted into the profile and pressed against the edge of the slope. By tapping on the panel, you achieve its correct location. Check the level for correct installation.

It is recommended to start from the top panel. For more correct installation of the top sheet and its fixation on the side surfaces, you can install special beacons and clamps. You can put guide rails on the wall, which will serve as a template for the correct placement of boxes. While the glue hardens, place supports under the panel. For better fixation, you can secure the drywall with self-tapping screws.

The side panels are installed in the same way. A plastic profile is placed on the lower edge of the side panel, this creates a neat joint with the window sill.

Method two - direct connection

Advantages:

  • there is no plastic profile;
  • beautiful appearance.

Flaws:

  • a seam appears between the plastic frame and the putty slope.

In this method, the drywall is inserted behind the frame profile. For ease of installation of the sheet, it is recommended to make small grooves in the joint foam into which the drywall will be inserted. The rest is similar to method 1.

Method three - installation on polyurethane foam

Advantages:

  • fast way;
  • no additional materials required;
  • can be used for narrow gaps between the window and the slope.

Flaws:

  • with large openings there is excessive consumption of foam.

The slope can be “placed” simply on polyurethane foam. Thus, the foam will serve as both glue and insulation. This is appropriate if the gap between the frame and the wall is small and the slope itself is shallow. You can also replace mineral wool with foam. When planting a slope on foam, you need to take into account that it tends to expand and correctly dose its amount when foaming. To fix the panel in this case, it is better to fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Tip: before applying foam or glue, it is recommended to moisten the wall surface with water.

Sealing joints

The joint between the drywall and the plastic frame and window sill is sealed with acrylic sealant. Acrylic sealant is flexible and avoids cracking of the seam between the plastic and. It can also be easily painted with acrylic paints in the desired color.

Design of slope angles. The gap between the inner surface of the wall and the drywall is carefully plastered. Strengthen the resulting seam by placing reinforcing tape or plaster mesh on it and putty on top. The corner can be strengthened with a perforated plaster corner, which is attached with a stapler or putty.


The upper corner joint between the panels is sealed with putty (the upper edge of the side panels is cut at an angle of 45° for this purpose) and reinforced with tape.

All drywall sections must first be primed.

Slope finishing.

The surface of the plasterboard slopes is primed and puttied in 2-3 layers. The last layer is carefully sanded until a smooth surface is obtained. Prime again. After that they paint.

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