Finishing the sauna stove with decorative stone. How to protect the walls of a bathhouse from the heat of the stove - technologies and materials. Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Reliable insulation of the stove in a bathhouse from the walls is one of the most basic tasks in building a bathhouse. Protecting flammable surfaces avoids not only fire, but also deformation of the wall material. It is important for home craftsmen to know the basic requirements and step-by-step instructions for working on thermal insulation from various materials.

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First, let's figure out whether it is always necessary to protect the surfaces of walls and ceilings in a bathhouse.

When is furnace wall insulation necessary?

If the stove is made of brick, or is located at a distance of more than 1000 mm from the wall, it does not make sense to carry out a full cycle of thermal insulation work. In these cases, it is enough to make a protective screen from foil on moisture-resistant kraft paper. It is important to know the gaps between the wall and stoves with different surface materials:

• it is recommended to move the stove, laid out with a wall thickness of half a brick, 350-400 mm from the surfaces of the bathhouse;
• a metal stove, not lined with brick or a layer of thermal insulation, must be at least 1000 mm away from the walls;
• It is recommended to install a steel stove with an extended part of the firebox and protected by thermal insulation at a distance of 700 mm.

But most individual baths are small in size and it is not always possible to maintain the required clearances. Therefore, the optimal solution to the problem is to protect the walls and ceiling with a reliable layer of thermal insulation made of non-flammable, moisture-resistant materials.

Example of wall protection

SNIP requirements

Protection of the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove is carried out in accordance with the requirements of building codes. It is important for a home master to know the main ones.

SNiP III-G.11-62

“Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work."

According to these standards, the gaps from the heater to the wall surfaces are:

• the thickness of the covered wall panels of the heater is 24 cm, with an applied layer of plaster from a lime solution, or with the addition of a layer of cement, the thickness of which is 25 mm, as well as when applying a layer of asbestos and clay solution, 4 cm thick - the distance must be at least 13 cm;
• the thickness of the wall of the heater is half a brick and applying a layer of lime plaster and adding asbestos, 25 mm thick or when protected with asbestos-vermuculite slabs 4 cm thick - a distance of 300 mm;
• when installing steel stoves, with the walls of the stove covered with refractory material, the minimum distance to plastered wooden walls is 700 mm, with a layer of gypsum and lime solution thickness of 25 mm;
• When installing a steel stove in a bathhouse with unplastered walls, the distance to them should be at least 1000 mm.

The fire inspector checks and signs permits for the use of the bathhouse when conducting control measurements. Only after this procedure can you use the bathhouse.

SNiP 2.04.05-91

"Heating. Ventilation and air conditioning."

When purchasing an industrial model of a furnace, the installation requirements can be found in the instructions. Home craftsmen must know and fulfill several requirements:

• the ceiling in the bathhouse is protected by asbestos slabs, plaster and sheet metal, up to 1 cm thick; in this case, the brick-lined stove is made high so that the gap to the ceiling is at least 250 mm;
• when installing a steel stove with a protective heat-insulating layer, maintain a gap to the ceiling of at least 700-800 mm if the ceiling is plastered and protected with non-combustible materials;
• in all other cases, the distance to the ceiling should be 1200 mm.

But the DIYers are faced with the question of how to cover the wall near the stove in the bathhouse?

Methods of wall insulation

The industry produces various materials and you want to choose the best option in terms of price and quality. Let's look at the main options for protecting surfaces in a steam room.

Fireproof plasterboard

This material is produced in the same way as regular drywall, but the outer surfaces are treated with special substances that make it insensitive to high temperatures. At the same time, it is able to withstand exposure to open fire for 1 hour without losing its properties and without emitting smoke and soot.

You can distinguish it by the color of the sheet markings. It comes in red color. When purchasing, pay attention to 2 main characteristics of the material, which are indicated in the certificate:

• limit of resistance to fire. This indicates the time of exposure to high temperatures before the material is destroyed. The higher this number, the more reliable the surface protection will be;
• leaf mass. They use sheets 12 mm thick; such plasterboard weighs more than regular plasterboard, so it is important to take this characteristic into account, especially for installation on the ceiling.

Work on laying fire-resistant plasterboard is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. prepare the walls; to do this, they need to be cleaned of dirt and remnants of the old finishing layer. After this, it is necessary to prime the surfaces and level them with a solution;
2. attach waterproofing and a layer of thermal insulation to the walls;
3. we treat the walls and ceiling with impregnations that increase the fire resistance of surfaces;
4. We mark the installation location of the profiles for fastening drywall and fix the guides at a distance from the ceiling covering of the walls - 100 mm. The gap to the wooden floor is 50 mm. The frame is secured with long self-tapping screws;
5. sheets of material are installed on the frame and secured with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be screwed flush with the surface of the sheets;
6. You can proceed to finishing work, but do not forget about the high humidity in the steam room, so you can treat the walls and ceiling with water-repellent impregnations. After this, the walls are puttied and a layer of decorative finishing is applied.

The work on finishing the walls and ceilings of the bathhouse using fire-resistant plasterboard has been completed.

Minerite

How to isolate a stove in a bathhouse from a wooden wall? Many builders use the Minerite material, which combines thermal insulation properties and protects surfaces from exposure to open fire.

These slabs are made with a cement-fiber base and a hard front surface. Materials produced specifically for damp rooms and baths are not affected by humidity and heavy loads. Using Minerita slabs, wall coverings are installed without gaps; they are not subject to deformation when heated, so there is no need to leave temperature gaps.

The plates can withstand heating up to 150 0 without changing their physical properties. They are environmentally safe when used in damp areas and when exposed to high temperatures, do not emit harmful substances and are resistant to the formation of fungi and mold.

The work on their installation is carried out similarly to the installation of drywall, but does not require the manufacture of a frame:

1. before work, clean all surfaces from dirt and old coating;
2. if necessary, we level the walls, especially the floors, to prevent the sheet from bending;
3. the slabs are laid on the floor or walls without gaps to the wall and secured with self-tapping screws;
4. on the walls and floor it is necessary to make a gap of 30 mm for air access. Therefore, self-tapping or industrial bushings are used on self-tapping screws. Therefore, when purchasing self-tapping screws, it is necessary to take into account the size of the indentation;
5. When installing slabs in a new bathhouse building, it is important to make small grooves or drill holes of a larger diameter in the place where the self-tapping screw passes. This is necessary to protect against damage to the slabs during shrinkage of the building.

After completing the work, the slabs are puttied and decorative finishing is applied.

Superizol

A fire-resistant material consisting of quartz and quicklime with the addition of additives can withstand temperatures of 120 0. It is used for finishing fireplaces, walls, and ceilings of bathhouses from the heat of the stove. When heated, substances harmful to humans and unpleasant odors are not released.

Plates with a thickness of 25-80 mm are fixed in the same way as drywall with glue, screws or heat-resistant mastic. Thermal insulation of a stove in a bathhouse using Superizol is not a cheap way to finish the coverings of a steam room, but you should not buy inexpensive Chinese slabs.

Stainless steel protective screen

For these purposes, screens with a matte or mirror surface are used. Stainless steel sheets are an excellent solution both for protecting steam room coatings from fires and as a decorative decoration for the room.

But the material is quite expensive, so you can use a screen to protect the lower surface of the walls near the stove, and install cheaper material on top.

Insulation of a sauna stove from a wooden wall using stainless steel screens is carried out according to the following scheme:

General scheme

The screen is ready. It is better to use the mirror surfaces of the screens, in this case, they will reflect the heat, it will be distributed faster and evenly throughout the steam room. Thus, we create a protective screen around the stove in the bathhouse, protect ourselves from burns and add a layer of decorative finishing.

Which method is better to choose?

The finishing of the wall from the stove for different types and sizes of baths is used in different shapes and materials. The main thing is to ensure the fire safety of your steam room and protect the walls from deformation at high heating temperatures.

Otherwise, everything depends on the capabilities and desires of the steam room owners. You can use heat-resistant tiles or expensive tiles, or you can simply cover the walls and ceiling with mineral wool and a layer of metal foil. By leveling the walls with sheets of plasterboard with surfaces not exposed to open fire, you can paint the steam room with heat-resistant paint using Minerita.

If the bathhouse is large, you may not need to perform this work if the conditions of SNIP and fire safety are met. By making the concrete base larger in size than the stove and maintaining a gap of 1 m to the walls, you can safely use the heater and enjoy the steam. In any case, it is important to take care of safety and then your bathhouse will serve you for a long time.

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The bathhouse has always been for Russians, where a person relaxes, as they say, “cleanses the spirit and body,” and receives a charge of vigor and health for the entire upcoming working week. But in order for a bathhouse to live up to the expectations placed on it, it needs a good one. It doesn’t matter whether this heating unit is purchased ready-made or built with your own hands - the main thing is that it is able to create the necessary specific atmosphere in the premises and is as safe as possible in operation.

There are two the main methods of installing this heating device:

Placing the entire structure in the steam room.

Each of the proposed options has its own positive and negative sides, but it is advisable to decide on the choice of installation method at the stage of building the bathhouse. If you plan to move the furnace firebox to an adjacent room, then when constructing a dividing wall between the steam room and the dressing room, an opening is immediately installed in it. However, if you decide to reconstruct an already finished bathhouse, then it is quite acceptable to cut out the necessary window in the wall to remove the furnace door of the stove into the dressing room.

During heating or using a bath, the surface of the stove becomes very hot; the temperature can reach 400 degrees or higher. In this case, the stove itself will be a source of strong radiation of infrared rays, which quickly spread throughout the entire area of ​​the bathhouse and heat all its walls, but especially those located near the stove.

Due to the highly elevated temperature, the walls of the bathhouse made of wood may begin to char, which will subsequently lead to their fire. To insulate wooden walls and ceilings from fire, fire-retardant compounds or chemical fire protection agents are often used. The most effective way to protect bathhouse walls, including wooden ones, from heat is the method of shielding using non-combustible materials.

The distance between the stove and the nearby wall should be safe, that is, it should be enough so that infrared rays have less of an impact on the surface and a fire does not break out in the bathhouse.

SNiP III-G.11-62. Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work. File for download

The safe distance between the sauna stove and the walls is determined on the basis of fire safety standards SNiP III-G.11-62 for the operation of stoves installed in rooms with walls or ceilings exposed to fire:

SNiP 2.04.05-91. Heating. Ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

Based on SNIP 2.04.05-91, a safe distance is established from the top of the stove to the ceiling:

• with a ceiling that is protected by a steel sheet 10 mm thick, laid on asbestos cardboard or plaster laid on a steel mesh and covering the stove with 3 rows of brick - no less than 250 mm,
• with a protected ceiling and a thermally insulated ceiling of the top of the metal stove, no less than 800 mm,
• with an unprotected ceiling and a stove with an overlap of 2 rows of bricks - no less than 1 m.
• with an unprotected ceiling and non-thermally insulated ceiling - no less than 1.2 m.

It is clear that a safe distance of 1 m between the stove and the wall can only be ensured in bathhouses with a large area. In private baths with a small area, every centimeter of usable space is saved, so the stoves are placed at a short distance from the walls, and to protect against heat, a brick screen is built or metal sheets are used as cladding, as well as other non-combustible materials that significantly reduce the permissible safe distance.

Protective screens

Bath walls are usually protected from thermal infrared radiation by protective screens. Brickwork or metal shields together with insulating materials are used as such screens. The protection is installed on the side surfaces of sauna heaters and/or on nearby surfaces.

Metal protective screen

Most often, in private baths, to protect interior partitions from high temperature and fire, an ordinary barrier is installed, constructed from metal sheets that are installed near the stove (a five-centimeter gap is left between the surfaces of the casing and the stove). Metal screens are mainly available on the side or front. A protective screen made of any metal significantly reduces the thermal impact of the stove on the surface of the walls. Thanks to such metal protection, the temperature near the wall decreases, thereby significantly reducing the safe distance.

Technical characteristics of Teplodar screens and installation diagram

Metal screens can be installed on legs using anchor bolts to secure the structure to the floor. Commercially available metal reflective screens are already equipped with mounting frames for vertical fixation.

Installed protective screen - photo

Oven with a metal protective screen - photo

Protective screen made of red stove brick

Brick barriers often cover the side surfaces of the stove, making the outer skin like a casing. In this way, the separation of combustible surfaces and the hot heating device is carried out.

Protective brick screen - diagram and photo

Since ancient times, there has been a tradition of building stoves from brick or stone. This design took a long time to heat up, but at the same time radiated soft heat, and subsequently cooled down for a long time. Modern metal stoves heat up quickly, emit hard infrared radiation, and the red-hot walls of the stove burn out the oxygen in the bathhouse. In addition, a metal stove is more fire hazardous. In view of these aspects, we can conclude that it is advisable to combine stone or brickwork with steel structures.

Brick screen for a metal stove – photo

Solid fireclay bricks are well suited for constructing a protective casing. A mixture of cement or mixed with refractory clay will serve as a good binder for it. The masonry-screen made of fireclay bricks, according to the value of the safe distance, is made with a thickness of about 12 cm (0.5 bricks) or 6.5 cm (0.25, respectively). However, expensive fireclay bricks are very rarely used in private baths to protect wooden walls; most often, preference is given to red stove bricks.

Before finishing (lining) a metal stove with red stove bricks, the base is first built.

It is imperative to take into account: if the stove is located not far from the load-bearing wall, then there must be a distance of at least 5 cm between the foundation of the stove and the foundation of the building. To ensure that these two foundations are not connected in any way and the heat from the steam room is not lost, thermal insulation material is laid between them .

The foundation surface should be 15-20 cm below the level of the finished floor of the bathhouse. After installing the foundation (it needs to be allowed to dry for 30 days), moisture-proofing material - roofing felt or roofing felt - is laid on it in 2 layers. Then, bricks are laid on the clay-cement mortar in 2 rows, shifting the bricks among themselves so that the seams of the masonry are covered by the brick lying on top.

At this point, the work on arranging the foundation is completed.

A heat-protective base should be made on top of the foundation, consisting of:

• a sheet of metal fixed on top of a layer of heat-insulating material;
• two rows of bricks laid on a wooden floor;
• heat-resistant ceramic tiles.

Before covering an iron stove with bricks, you need to prepare the required mortar for laying. The best option for brickwork around a metal stove would be a simple clay mortar (raw materials should be mined at a depth of more than two meters) with sand. The kneading process is not complicated. The clay is first soaked, then the already soaked clay is thoroughly rubbed through a sieve. The sand is sifted and mixed with soaked clay. The viscosity and plasticity of the mortar must be such that it does not squeeze out of the seams during laying. You can add 5-10% cement to the solution for strength.

The foundation of the protective screen can be made in a quarter of a brick, be sure to leave small holes in its lower part and in the middle part - special windows that create air circulation between the brick screen and the installed stove (sometimes they are equipped with combustion doors). In this case, the bath will heat up very quickly.

It is best to line the stove with half a brick. If the screen is made of brick, it will take a very long time to warm up.

Attention! It is very important to take into account the fire safety requirement - the distance between the walls of the metal stove and the brickwork should be 3 - 10 cm. In order for the brick screen to be more durable, reinforcing mesh must be laid through the row, or possibly in each row. The verticality of the corners should be checked with a plumb line, and the laying of the rows with a building level should be checked for horizontalness.

The brick screen can be laid all the way to the ceiling. The main condition is that its height must be at least 20 cm greater than the height of the stove.

To more reliably protect wooden walls from high temperatures, an acceptable distance has been established between the wall and the constructed brick screen. It should be less than 15 cm, but more than 5 cm, while the distance from the stove to any of the walls can be 20 - 40 cm.

Prices for protective screens

oven protection screen

Non-combustible lining

To protect walls from a hot stove, sheathing consisting of various special thermal insulation materials is often used.

Stainless reflective lining

Special non-flammable thermal insulation or protective cladding consists of stainless steel sheets that perfectly protect the wooden surface of walls in private baths from fires. To construct such a simple screen, first a heat-insulating material is attached to the wall, and only then a stainless steel sheet is attached on top.

To increase the efficiency of the cladding, it is advisable to polish the stainless metal sheet well to a mirror shine. The mirror surface of stainless steel significantly improves the reflection of heat rays emanating from the stove, preventing the wooden walls from heating up. In addition, by redirecting hard infrared rays back, the mirror stainless metal will turn them into soft and safe for people to perceive.

Metal screens for a bathhouse are easy to make with your own hands. The main thing is not to forget about using a heat insulator between the wall and the sheet of metal (minerite or asbestos cardboard will do)

Cladding with cladding

Mirror stainless steel cladding looks beautiful and perfectly protects the walls from fire, however, in some cases it may not be appropriate in a bathhouse and over time the mirror surface will become matte, will not be able to reflect the rays efficiently and will not look as beautiful as it originally did. Heat-resistant cladding will help solve the design problem in the bathhouse for many years; heat-resistant adhesive is used to lay it on the brick lining.

For cladding walls located next to the stove, you can use the following heat-resistant materials:

Attention! Any tile that is used for wall cladding will not be able to provide complete thermal insulation; it is only one of the components in a protective structure consisting of a fire-resistant material and a small (2-3 cm) ventilation gap between this fire-resistant material and the wall.

As a fire-resistant material, you can also use a board made of fire-resistant plasterboard, or from fiberglass, which will not be deformed under the influence of heat, from a fireproof cement-fiber board - mineralite, or from a special tile material - glass-magnesium sheet.

Of course, the best option for cladding wooden walls is brick cladding. With such protection of the walls from high temperatures, the stove can be placed almost close to the wall. However, it is not always possible to use new, even bricks for masonry and lay beautiful masonry around the stove. Sometimes a previously used brick is chosen for a protective screen in order to further refine it with a beautiful material.

Prices for soapstone tiles

soapstone tiles

Cladding a brick screen - step-by-step instructions

You can refine and make the appearance of any brickwork more aesthetically pleasing with the help of a fire-resistant and durable natural material.

Terracotta tiles, also called “terracotta” for short, are a very heat-resistant ceramic product made from kaolin clay fired at a temperature of about 1000 degrees. This wonderful material is absolutely non-flammable, it does not change its properties even from high (up to 1300 degrees) and low (up to -25 degrees) temperatures, and does not change its beautiful appearance from the action of water or sunlight.

To finish a brick protective fence, you will need heat-resistant materials “Terracotta”: glue, paste, as well as finishing grout, which will fill the seams.

You will also need a sheet of drywall (choose 9.5 mm gypsum board) to space the slabs, which must first be cut into small squares.

Tools. We stock the following accessories:

In advance, you need to dilute it with water in a bucket and mix it with a mixer with a convenient and very reliable in terms of fire safety reinforced adhesive mixture “Terracotta”.

Initially, bricks for the screen are laid around the stove in a classic dressing, carefully removing excess mortar.

Attention! After finishing laying the rough wall, you must wait 24 hours for the masonry to dry and gain initial strength.

Prices for Terracotta glue

terracotta

Terracotta flagstone “Classic” is a stone amazing in its unique beauty. It looks very rich and massive.

It can be easily sawed with a diamond wheel or split with a hammer and then, after spreading a thick layer of Terracotta mastic on it, stick it on the brickwork. Terracotta flagstone is heavier than terracotta tiles, but much lighter than natural stone.

When facing with flagstone, cut squares of plasterboard are used as the distance between the tiles and to stop the movement of the tiles. The rough chipped edge of the flagstone will not allow a 10 mm gap to be maintained everywhere, and this will further give the stone cladding a feeling of naturalness.

Having brought the process of stylizing the wall under wild stone to perfection, you can move on to tiling. You need to lay rectangular terracotta tiles on brick, starting with the laying of corner elements, thanks to which the decorative cladding will look like classic stove masonry.

Corner elements must be glued from bottom to top, while the horizontal corners must be aligned only by level.

Attention! For gluing and setting of Terracotta mastic, at least 10 hours or more must pass.

After the mastic has dried, you need to remove the plasterboard squares inserted as fasteners and begin first filling and then opening the seams between the slabs.

For this work, you will need a heat-resistant wide-joint grout, which is a unique white composition designed for filling the joints between slabs of different decorative surfaces that may be subject to severe exposure to elevated temperatures.

The grout must be filled with water and stirred with a mixer to obtain a homogeneous solution, similar in consistency to thick sour cream.

Attention! The time to use the grout solution is about 1 hour.

It is necessary to fill the tile joints using a construction gun, the nozzle of which must be cut off obliquely so that an oblong hole is formed.

The gun tube is filled with the prepared grout solution using a narrow spatula.

Then, carefully inserting the nozzle, you should, smoothly and with low intensity, moving the construction gun along the length of the seams, squeeze out the grout and fill the seams so that the level of the filled grout is aligned with the level of the tiles. The joints between the slabs can be filled either vertically or horizontally.

Attention! Special grout for seams should not get on the front surface of the finish. If it happens that the mixture does get on the decorative cladding, then you should not immediately remove the composition, but wait at least 2 hours until it hardens a little and then the contaminating fragment can be easily removed. The dried mixture must not be removed from the slabs in a tangential direction or smeared.

After completing all the work on filling the joints, the grout will “ripen”, acquiring molded pliability or slight crumbling after 2 hours. After this time, you can confidently proceed to the final part - the process of distributing the frozen grout and leveling it in the tile joints - decorative jointing, the purpose of which is to give the surface being decorated an attractive appearance.

To begin with, from the seams, using a simple flat screwdriver, transversely recessed into the seam, it is necessary to remove the excess amount of grout, slowly maintaining a constant depth. To remove excess grout, you can also use a metal ring of small diameter, with which you can evenly remove the grout, like shavings.

Distribution and leveling of the composition with a tool - grouting

The remaining grout in the joint can be carefully distributed with light pressure from a gloved finger, giving the grout the appearance of a smooth surface without depressions or roughness.

The work on lining the thermal barrier of the brick walls has been completed.

The first heating of the stove in the bathhouse can be started only 24 hours after all the necessary work has been carried out with grouting between the tiles.

Video - Heat-resistant screens for sauna stoves. Part 1

Video - Heat-resistant screens for sauna stoves. Part 2

Video - Installing a sauna stove with a protective screen

Video - Protecting bathhouse walls with terracotta tiles

Video - Protecting wooden bath walls from heat

A stove in a bathhouse is not only a device for heating rooms, but also a stylish element of the interior. Therefore, special attention is paid to its external cladding. The construction market offers reliable and practical materials used for finishing the stove in the bathhouse.

The correct choice of suitable material depends on the design idea, interior style and financial capabilities of the customer.

Features of the decorative lining of the stove

High-quality finishing of a sauna stove must meet basic operational requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature changes, ensure durability and safety of the surface. The lined stove should quickly heat the bath rooms and create a comfortable microclimate inside.

Lining a stove in a bathhouse has a number of advantages, including the following:

• fast and uniform heating of rooms;
• heat accumulation for a long time;
• minimal risk of getting burned from a heated oven;
• the air does not dry out;
• simplicity and accessibility of maintenance of finished cladding;
• attractive appearance of heating equipment;
• resistance to mechanical damage and deformation.

Types of stove lining

In addition to the fact that the stove is the main heating equipment, it also performs an aesthetic function.

The cladding of the sauna stove is made using practical and durable decorative materials:

• ceramic tiles;
• refractory bricks;
• artificial and natural stone;
• decorative plaster;
• tiles;
• frame made of metal plates.

All materials are distinguished by high performance characteristics and installation features.

Ceramic tiles - elegance and durability

The best material for lining a sauna stove is ceramic tiles. It is easy to install, affordable and durable.

The following types of tiles are used for facing work:

• Clinker room. It is made from red clay with the addition of fireclay, melting agent and dye.
• Majolica. Material with a pressed base, covered with a protective glaze layer. This type of tile is distinguished by its rich color scheme, decorative patterns and ornaments.
• Terracotta. A facing material whose performance characteristics are similar to majolica. Important differences are the porous structure and the absence of a protective glaze. Terracotta is characterized by durability, increased strength and resistance to mechanical damage. This type of tile is made in a round shape.
• Marble. This material is distinguished by its increased wear resistance, practicality and ease of installation, and is devoid of almost all disadvantages.

When choosing this type of finishing, stove owners ask themselves the important question of which tiles are best for covering heating equipment. Experts believe that the best option is a material that has a minimum coefficient of thermal expansion and a dense structure - clinker tiles.

Firebrick: reliability and safety

Decorating a sauna stove with brick is the simplest and most cost-effective option for owners who decide to do the cladding themselves.

The material has a number of advantages:

• fast and safe heating;
• accumulation and maintenance of heat for a long time;
• resistance to high moisture;
• low cost and ease of installation.

The following types of stones are used for facing work:

• granite;
• marble;
• coil;
• porcelain stoneware;
• soapstone;
• jade.

Decorative stones can withstand an unlimited amount of heating; they accumulate thermal energy well and maintain a given temperature for a long time. In addition, this material is resistant to acids and alkalis.

In terms of their performance characteristics, artificial elements are not inferior to natural stones. With their help, you can properly line a stove in a steam room or a fireplace in your home.

The technology for laying stones is simple and therefore does not require additional preparation. Non-standard shapes of elements can cause some difficulties during the fitting process, so before installation it is recommended to lay out the material on a flat base. The stones are numbered and fixed on the surface of the furnace using an adhesive composition.

Decorative plaster: simplicity and accessibility

A simple option for lining a Russian stove is plastering the surfaces. Over time, the decorative and protective properties of the plaster composition decrease, which will require frequent renewal of the cladding.

Important! Decorative plaster is used only for brick stoves and is not suitable for metal devices.

Plastering a stove in a bathhouse is simple; all work is performed in the following order:

• the surface is cleaned of dust, debris and remains of the connecting solution;
• the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm;
• Before the cladding begins, the oven warms up;
• a mesh of metal rods is installed on the surface with wire fixation;
• the surface is moistened and a primary layer of plaster mixture is applied;
• After the plaster has hardened, a second layer is applied.

The thickness of each subsequent layer does not exceed 6 mm. The plaster solution is applied using a trowel and leveled over the surface with a spatula. When plastering the surface, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of defects - air bubbles and sagging.

After hardening, the top layer is thoroughly cleaned until a smooth surface is obtained.

Tiles: originality and practicality

The use of tiles is an ancient way of cladding stove equipment for a bath. Tiles are tiles made from pottery plastic clay by firing in a kiln at a temperature of more than 1000 degrees. On the back of the tile there are pumps designed to fix the material on any surface. Tiles are presented in several categories:

• with a smooth surface;
• majolica;
• with glazed surface;
• with a relief surface.

Tiles are distinguished by high performance characteristics - durability, practicality, strength and high heat transfer.

The work of tiling should be entrusted to professionals who will do a good job of installing the material on the surface of the stoves.

Metal frame: accessibility and safety

A sauna stove can be lined with a metal frame, which is installed on top of the device and covered with protective shields. The steel frame provides reliable protection for the furnace portal and an optimal level of heating of the air in the room.

This type of cladding has the following advantages:

• accumulates released thermal energy;
• quickly heats the air and walls in the room;
• It is distinguished by its affordable price and ease of installation.

A serious drawback of such cladding is the likelihood of burns upon direct contact with the surface. Therefore, experts do not recommend installing metal frames for stoves in bathhouses in order to avoid possible injuries.

A competent choice of decorative material for cladding and adherence to the technological process will ensure the correct operation of the sauna stove and the creation of a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

During the heating of the bath, the surface of the stove heats up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The coming heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures their charring begins. And there it’s already a stone’s throw away! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and cladding from non-combustible materials in the bathhouse.

When is protection needed at all?

The need to install protective casings and screens does not always arise. If a fire-safe distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest flammable surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays are scattered, weakened, and the amount of them that the wooden wall receives can no longer lead to damage.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick stove (quarter-brick laying) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal stove (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal stove lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance decreases to 0.7 m.

Thus, maintaining fire safety distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established by the standards must be reduced with the help of screens and casings.

Protective screens near (around) the stove

Protective screens are insulation panels that cover the side surfaces of the furnace and reduce the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens can be metal or brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the stove, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one side or another of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially manufactured with protective screens in the form of a protective casing.

Protective screens make it possible to reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (including a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal panels are easily bolted to the floor.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer cladding. Then the stove will be in a casing made of brickwork. In another case, a brick screen is a wall separating the stove and the flammable surface.

To lay the protective screen, solid fireclay bricks are used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to use half a brick (thickness 120 mm). But, if there is a lack of material, it is possible to make a wall of a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the thermal insulation properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small openings (sometimes with fire doors) are left at the bottom of the shield for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

The brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the oven. Sometimes the masonry goes all the way to the ceiling.

The brick screen is not installed flush against the walls of the stove, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the stove to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm (stove - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible wall coverings

Walls adjacent to the hot furnace walls are susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special casings consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials are used.

Option #1 - reflective trim

Sheathing consisting of a combination of non-combustible insulation and metal sheets is effective. In this case, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some data, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It’s better not to risk it and buy a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirror surface helps to reflect heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing IR rays back into the steam room, transforms hard radiation into softer radiation, better perceived by humans.

The following can be fixed under stainless steel as thermal insulation:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties and is absolutely safe when used in a bathhouse. It has increased hygroscopicity and does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard is thin sheets of basalt fiber. Used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet fire-resistant heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite is a non-flammable sheet (plate) specially manufactured for shielding stoves, fireplaces, and easily flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of cladding using a metal sheet is this “pie”: wall – ventilation gap (2-3 cm) – insulation (1-2 cm) – stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to attach the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the cladding is made of two layers of fire-resistant insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings, maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective cladding with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the fire-resistant lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tiles are laid on heat-resistant adhesive, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for cladding walls near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles are made from baked clay. It is characterized by strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica), and the color varies from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles are also made of clay and look similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color range covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including green and blue tones, unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has embossing on the front surface in the form of a design or ornament.
• Porcelain tiles are heat-resistant, durable tiles. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, or wood. The color range includes all natural shades, from white to black.
• Soapstone is a rock of grayish or greenish color. It is fireproof, waterproof and durable.

Attaching fire-resistant tiles directly to walls will not have any thermal insulation effect. The wall will still heat up, which can lead to spontaneous combustion. Therefore, tiles are used only as an element of a protective “pie” of the following design: wall – ventilation gap (2-3 cm) – fire-resistant sheet material – tiles. It is recommended to maintain a minimum distance of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the oven.

Any material from this list can be used as a fire-resistant element in the cladding:

• Fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) is drywall supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformation.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-flammable. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, and do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (FMS) is a material in the form of plates made on the basis of magnesium binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulation properties and is not destroyed by water and temperature changes.

The protective cladding, which must comply with the ventilation gap, has a very low heat absorption coefficient, so the wall underneath it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of cladding allows you to disguise the protective “pie” and maintain the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

How to protect the walls of a bathhouse from the heat of a stove - technologies and materials

When planning the construction of a bathhouse, it is important to remember to create safety indoors. First of all, this concerns fire safety. By melting the bathhouse, the stove can be heated to 300-400°C, which significantly exceeds the combustion temperature of the wood from which the bathhouse is most often built.

All the heat from the stove is released into the room, but the main heat is absorbed by nearby walls, which leads to their charring and fire. It is extremely important to avoid such consequences, so in this article we will tell you in detail how to insulate a stove in a bathhouse from the wall. Read also: "Heat sauna stoves - types and design features."

Do you need protection in your bathhouse?

Protecting the walls of the bathhouse from the heat of the stove is not always required. For example, you can provide a distance between the wall and the stove, which will allow you to achieve fire safety without additional protection. The fact is that at some distance the IR rays emitted by the furnace begin to dissipate, which significantly reduces their impact on nearby surfaces.

The distance from the stove to the wall in the bathhouse varies depending on the type of stove:

• 0.32 m or more - the distance for a stone stove with a quarter-brick laying;
• 0.7 m or more is the required distance between the wall and the metal furnace lined with fireclay or brick from the inside;
• 1 m or more is a safe distance for an unlined metal furnace.

At first glance, it seems that creating such a distance is much easier than installing additional protection, but this is fundamentally wrong. Maintaining a safe distance is only advisable in large steam rooms, but in small private baths, the stove, including the indentations, will occupy most of the room, so it will be much easier to use insulation.

Protective screens

Speaking about fire safety in the bathhouse, first of all it is worth highlighting the protective screens that insulate the stove in the bathhouse from the walls.

Protective screens are special panels made of non-combustible materials (metal or brick), which significantly reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Most often, this insulation method is used for metal furnaces. Read also: “How to make a screen for a sauna stove – options and solutions from an expert.”

Metal protective screens

On the construction market, the most common metal protective screens are made of steel or cast iron. Many manufacturers of iron stoves provide thermal insulation for their products, providing them with special casings.

Choosing protective screens is quite simple, because depending on the side of the furnace to be insulated, you can purchase a front or side panel. Installing such screens will also not cause difficulties, because the manufacturer provides special legs that can be easily attached to the floor.

Next we should talk about the installation rules. The panels themselves are installed at a distance of 1-5 cm from the stove, but a distance to the adjacent wall is also required. Protective screens reduce the radiated temperature to 80-100°C, which allows them to be installed 50 cm from a parallel wall.

Brick screens

The furnace fence in the steam room can also be made of brick. A brick screen can be installed on all sides of a metal furnace, forming a protective lining. Also, such a screen can only be installed between the flammable surface and the stove, representing a protective wall.

Having decided to lay such protection, use solid fireclay bricks, for the binding of which you can use clay or cement mortar. Typically, half-brick masonry (120 mm) is used, but due to lack of material, quarter-brick masonry (60 mm) is suitable. When using the latter installation method, remember that the thermal insulation properties of such a screen are reduced, so the distance to the wall should be increased.

This finishing of an iron stove in a bathhouse is also carried out in compliance with certain rules:

• In the lower part of the shield it is necessary to provide special openings that will ensure air convection between the furnace wall and the brick;
• The height of the brick wall should exceed the height of the stove by 20 cm, but it is often built right up to the ceiling;
• Maintain a distance of 5-15 cm between the stove and brick screens;
• There should also be a distance of 5-15 cm between the flammable surface, for example, a wall and a brick protection.

Non-combustible wall coverings

The second option for protecting walls from fire is special sheathing, which is made from non-combustible materials. The working element of this protection, which reflects IR rays that are dangerous to flammable surfaces, is a reflective material, for example, stainless steel.

There are also decorative finishing options that preserve the aesthetic purity of your bathhouse. One of the advantages of this method is that protecting the walls in the bathhouse from the stove will not only prevent fire, but also retain heat inside the room. Read also: “Finishing a stove in a bathhouse - choosing a material for decorative cladding.”

Reflective wall cladding

You can assemble this version of protective casing yourself. To do this, you will need a non-flammable thermal insulation material, which will be discussed in more detail below, as well as a sheet of stainless steel.

Stainless steel can be replaced with a cheaper option - galvanization, however, when heated, it can release harmful substances, so we strongly do not recommend using it. When starting work, secure the insulation to the wall, and then cover it with a metal sheet.

To ensure that such thermal insulation for a sauna stove is as productive as possible, polish the metal surface. This will allow IR rays to be better reflected back into the steam room, and the reflected rays will be better perceived by humans.

You can use the following materials as thermal insulation:

• Basalt wool absolutely safe for the bath. It retains heat well, in addition, it is highly hygroscopic and does not burn at all;
• Basalt cardboard- a good option for a bath. It consists of thin sheets of basalt fiber that retain heat well and do not burn;
• Asbestos cardboard– a strong and durable heat insulator, which is also suitable for a bath;
• Minerite for baths– this is also excellent material. Non-combustible plates are specially manufactured for shielding hot surfaces in baths and saunas;

Before covering the wall near the stove in the bathhouse, familiarize yourself with the correct technology for its construction. The most important thing is the installation order and compliance with the gaps.

The ideal design has the following structure:

1. Wall;
2. The ventilation gap is 2-3 cm;
3. Insulation 1-2 cm;
4. Stainless steel sheet.

Remember that the total distance from the wall to the stove must be more than 38 cm. For fastening, use ceramic bushings that will help form ventilation gaps. If the distance between the wall and the stove is minimal, then it is necessary to use two layers of mineralite slabs, between which a gap must also be left.

Cladding with cladding

This option is practically no different from the previous one, however, if you don’t know how to decorate the wall behind the stove in the steam room in such a way as to preserve the beauty of the room while creating safe conditions, then this option is undoubtedly for you. Protect the walls using heat-resistant decorative materials laid on thermal insulation.

The finishing around the stove in the bathhouse can be done with the following materials:

• Clinker tiles made from baked clay. It is characterized by high strength, heat resistance and durability. One of the advantages of this option is also the rich color palette, which includes not only black and white tones, but also blue or green colors;
• Terracotta tiles also made of clay, but it is inferior to the previous version in terms of density and the number of possible colors;
• Soapstone is a good cladding option for a bathhouse, made from rocks of green and grayish shades. Has good heat resistance and strength;
• Tiles– ordinary ceramic tiles, characterized by good heat resistance and a pattern on their surface;
• Porcelain tiles– heat-resistant tiles imitating natural stone or wood.

The tile will not dissipate heat, protecting the walls from fire, so it cannot be mounted directly on the wall. We recommend using the following design:

1. Wall;
2. Clearance for ventilation;
3. Fireproof material;
4. Tiles (the distance from the tile to the stove must be at least 15 cm).

Such a “pie” will create reliable protection for walls from heat, preserving the beauty of the room.

One of the following options can be used as a fireproof material:

• Fireproof drywall– made from the same materials as regular drywall, but using fiberglass;
• Minerite slabs for a bath - absolutely not exposed to moisture and heat.
• Glass magnesium sheet– slabs made of fiberglass and magnesium binder. Excellent resistance to heat, moisture and noise.

This option will perfectly protect your bathhouse from the possibility of fire, and will also insulate the room, preserving its aesthetic component.

Building a bathhouse is only half the battle. It is important to properly equip it from the inside: complete the finishing, install the stove, arrange the furniture, etc. High-quality finishing of the premises will make bath procedures truly soulful and as enjoyable as possible.

Traditionally, a bathhouse has several rooms with different humidity and temperature levels; accordingly, there are a number of restrictions on the use of certain finishing materials.

Steam room. High temperature and humidity.	1. Tree. Finishing with paired wood lining is considered a classic. This material is best suited for finishing walls, floors and ceilings. Requires treatment with special impregnations (wood in a steam room cannot be coated with varnish or paint that is not natural). 2. Stone. It is often used for cladding the wall behind the stove, while simultaneously serving as a fireproof cut. The solution is practical, durable, and quite original. 3. Salt panels. Ideal material for medical procedures. Illuminated salt blocks will pleasantly transform your steam room. But it is better to use this material in saunas with electric stoves, because direct contact with water and excessive humidity have a detrimental effect on the material. 4. Facing brick. Can be used to cover the wall behind the stove. Goes well with wooden wall paneling. 5. Porcelain tiles and ceramic tiles with a non-slip surface for finishing the floor and/or wall behind the stove. Recommended as a finishing coat for screeds with insulation. It is better not to lay tiles on a wooden base in a steam room. 6. Mosaic. Traditional material for finishing hammams. It is not often used in Russian and Finnish baths.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. 3. PVC panels for covering walls and ceilings. 4. Ceramic tiles are glossy (slippery). 5. Ceiling tiles of all types. 6. Plaster.
	1. Porcelain tiles and tiles with an anti-slip surface, mosaic. Recommended in combination with elastic anti-fungal moisture-resistant grout. 2. Natural or artificial stone. 3. Wood impregnated with antiseptics and water-repellent compounds. The service life of the shower is quite short. The best type of wood for finishing a shower room is larch. 4. Moisture-resistant drywall. It is used for the construction of partitions, as a base for laying tiles. Plasterboard can be used to protect laminated timber walls from moisture. It is permissible to paint GVL with moisture-resistant paint, but this option is short-lived. 5. PVC panels. A good option for finishing walls and ceilings, provided that waterproofing is properly organized. Finishing wooden walls with plastic panels is permissible only after complete shrinkage. 6. Moisture-resistant plaster. The finishing can hardly be called budget; additional waxing is required. It is possible to bring unique patterns to life by choosing the right structure and shade of the composition.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum.
	Any available materials are suitable for finishing.	It is not recommended to decorate the wall bordering the steam room with wood or plastic. It is better to use facing brick, stone, decorative plaster.

Let's look at several ways to decorate the inside of a bathhouse.

Finishing walls and ceilings with clapboard

An example of finishing the ceiling of a recreation room with clapboard

Lining is used very often for wall decoration. These can be expensive panels made of cedar, larch or more budget-friendly ones made of aspen and linden. Often, bathhouse owners combine different types of wood; the finish is unusual and very beautiful. It is better to use pine lining for covering the dressing room; in a steam room it is not the best choice.

A combination of lining from different types of wood for finishing walls and ceilings

They fasten the lining vertically or horizontally, and also lay out patterns from the slats, fixing it to the sheathing beams. A foil vapor barrier must be used. But it’s difficult to surprise anyone with such a finish.

If you have a sufficient amount of free time and material, some diligence and accuracy, pay attention to method of installing lining in a herringbone pattern.

Step 1. Calculation of lining. Calculate the area of ​​each wall in the steam room separately (you need to multiply the length of the wall by its height), sum up the results. You don’t have to subtract the area of ​​the doorway, since it is necessary to provide a supply of material, taking into account the scraps.

When purchasing lining, pay attention to the label - manufacturers indicate the number of panels in the package, as well as the area of ​​the finishing material. Divide the total area of ​​your steam room by the area of ​​one package and get the number of packages that will be needed for finishing.

If there is no information on the label, you will have to measure the length and width of each panel without taking into account the width of the tenon, and then calculate the number of panels for finishing. It is better to purchase material with a reserve.

Important! Do not use lining with knots to finish the steam room. The density of the knots is higher than the density of solid wood; when heated, the knots will fall out.

Step 2. Preparing the lining for installation. Unpack the purchased lining and store it in a heated room. You can begin finishing in two days.

During this period, prepare your workplace and tools:

• jigsaw or circular saw;
• level, plumb line, tape measure, protractor, square, pencil;
• finishing nails, hammer;
• wooden plinth for floor and ceiling;
• mallet.

Step 3. It is better to fasten the lining with the tenon facing up. Based on this, we mark out the panels.

The herringbone can be angled up or down.

The photo shows a herringbone laying method with the corner pointing down.

Cutting must be done at an angle of 45 degrees. The ends of the panels should be on the sheathing bars. For convenience, you can make a template and mark it according to it.

Step 4. We start attaching the paneling from the top. We fix the first panel with finishing nails all the way through. If the bathhouse is wooden and has not yet shrunk, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 cm between the ceiling and the casing, which will be covered with a plinth.

We insert the second panel with a tenon into the groove of the top panel, precisely aligning the ends of both panels. We fasten with a clamp. We insert the clamp into the groove, hammer three finishing nails into the holes of the clamp through a hammer. One panel will require at least two clamps, depending on the length of the lining.

We continue fastening from top to bottom until we reach the floor. Here it is also worth leaving a gap of up to two centimeters. Lastly, we attach triangles cut from the lining at the top and bottom, fixing them through with nails.

We install the next row in the same way, but we change the direction of the lining.

After installation, cover the panel joints with a thin wooden plinth, fixing it strictly vertically with finishing nails.

There is another way to lay the “Christmas tree”. The technology is similar to laying parquet. The lining is sawn into rectangular planks. Laying is carried out with a shift equal to the width of the panel without taking into account the tenon. Fixation is done with clamps or construction staples.

Herringbone wall covering method

Method of installation of lining "rhombus"

It is better to use boards rather than timber as sheathing. This will simplify the installation process. The method is applicable for both wall and ceiling finishing.

Step 1. It is necessary to draw a rhombus with angles of 30 and 60 degrees. We draw a straight line between the 30 degree angles, dividing the rhombus into 2 triangles. We cut the paper blank, transfer the drawing to the lining so that a spike is located on two faces of the diamond. We cut out the workpiece. Connect two triangles to form a rhombus. We fix the diamond with finishing nails right through to the sheathing (two nails for each triangle, we do not drive the nails all the way in).

Step 2. We take a whole panel of lining. We apply it to the diamond, connecting its tenon to the groove of the board. We make markings on the board for cutting.

We draw a straight line to the spike. On the tongue of the paneling we draw a line perpendicular to the board itself, continuing the pencil markings to the other side of the tongue of the panel.

We saw the board according to the markings. To do this, turn the paneling over with the pencil markings facing down, and place the edge of the circular saw on the line marked on the tenon. Turn on the saw and make a cut.

We take the second clapboard board. We apply it with a groove to the rhombus (on the edge where there is no spike). We mark for cutting, maintaining the accuracy of the angles. We check with a protractor and a long ruler. We saw according to the markings.

Advice! It is more convenient to connect the initial elements on a table or on the floor, nailing the wooden elements with finishing nails to a piece of FSF plywood.

Step 3. We continue to work. Rush is unacceptable. It is important to accurately mark and cut and join the corners. We mark or number each element to make it easier to install on the wall or ceiling in the future.

Step 4. When the decorative element reaches the desired size, you need to remove the nails and disassemble all the panels that were assembled on the table.

Let's assume that insulation and vapor barrier have already been completed, the sheathing has been filled. Using a level and a tape measure, you need to find the place where the center of the diamond will be. Accordingly, the center can only be located on the plane of one of the beams or sheathing boards. We nail the central diamond to the sheathing, driving the finishing nails into the tenon. For convenience, it is better to use a hammer to avoid breaking the lining with a hammer.

We attach the following lining boards to the central element, adjust them with light blows of the mallet and fix them in the same way.

Assembling a rhombus on the ceiling. When the decorative element is fixed, further cladding can be carried out parallel to the fixed panels or perpendicular

The joints of the rhombus can be covered with a thin wooden plinth, nailed through with finishing galvanized nails.

On a note! By placing lining panels in different directions, combining lining from different types of wood, you can create an interesting pattern that will turn a simple steam room into a work of art. “Elite class” wood is considered to be cedar, fir, ebony and mahogany, rosewood, Canadian hemlock, African oak, pear and elm, and eucalyptus.

When the cladding is completed, impregnate the wood with a protective compound.

Video - Finishing premises with clapboards, the result of laying boards in different directions

Video - Ceilings made of lining

Mosaic wall decoration

If the walls of the bathhouse are wooden, you cannot, of course, put tiles or mosaics on them. Moisture-resistant plasterboard will serve as the basis for the mosaic. This material is quite hard, does not deform in conditions of high humidity, does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, that is, it is completely safe.

A frame for plasterboard is similar in structure to a frame for lining. To equip it, we will prepare 50x25 mm and 75x25 mm antiseptic timber, galvanized screws, perforated corners. We will mark using a tape measure, a plumb line and a level.

The timber must be antisepticized yourself or purchased material that has already been treated. Store timber indoors

Step 1. We fasten the beam under the ceiling with self-tapping screws (if an interior partition is being made, then the upper beam must be attached to the ceiling). Using a plumb line, we make markings on the floor for attaching the bottom beam. They must be in the same plane.

Step 2. We fasten the lower beam to the wall with wood screws.

If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, fastening is done with dowels through pre-drilled holes in the wall.

Step 3. We measure the distance between the upper and lower bars, this will be the length of the vertical posts. We cut the timber with a jigsaw or saw. We install the first rack in the corner of the room. We attach the stand to the upper and lower beams with perforated corners and self-tapping screws.

Step 4. At equal intervals we install the following racks in the same way. We check that the racks are in the same plane.

Step 5. We cut the timber to a length equal to the distance between the posts. Using corners and self-tapping screws, we secure intermediate jumpers between the posts.

Frame made of metal profiles

Step 1. Using a laser level, we check the verticality of the wall. We set the level on the floor and use a tape measure to measure the distance from the wall to the beam in different places.

Step 2. If the differences are significant, we knock down the protrusions with a hammer drill. We remove debris and dust. We repeat the plane check operation again.

Step 3. Using a rule and a pencil, draw a line on the floor (we move away from the wall by about one and a half centimeters). The profile will be located along this line. We fasten the PN 50x40 profile to the floor with dowel nails.

Draw a line along which the profile will be located

Step 4. We insert vertical guides (PN 50x50) into the lower fixed profile and fasten them to the walls (in the corners of the room) with 6x60 mm dowel nails.

Step 5. We attach the PN profile to the ceiling. The upper and lower profiles must be located in the same plane. If the length of the room exceeds the length of the profiles, we make a joining, that is, we insert one section of the profile into another with an overlap of up to 40 cm.

We insert the profile into the vertical guides. Be sure to check the horizontality of the top guide; to do this, insert a vertical profile in the center and apply a level.

If necessary, we move the upper profile a little and only then fix it with self-tapping screws to the ceiling. We install fasteners at intervals of 50 cm.

Important! The installation of electrical wiring, pipes and other communications must be completed before finishing work begins.

Step 6. Installing intermediate profiles. We fix the ends at the top and bottom with self-tapping screws and a press washer. We take the distance between the profiles taking into account the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet. For example, from the outermost post we fix the next two at a distance of 40 cm, and install the fourth post so that its center is at a distance of 120 cm from the first (corner) profile.

Step 7 We check the position of the vertical posts with a level and begin fixing the profiles with hangers.

We insert the suspension between the vertical profile and the wall. Using a marker, mark the points for drilling holes. We drill holes with a hammer drill, insert dowels into the holes, attach hangers and fix them with self-tapping screws.

We bend the shelves of the hangers, screw in the “bug” screws to attach the hanger to the profile.

First we attach the hangers in the center of the profiles, then the rest. The vertical step between the hangers is approximately 50-60 cm.

On a note! To prevent the vertical profiles from shifting or rotating along their axis during the installation of the suspensions, we fasten them with a horizontal profile, screwing it with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Step 8 We install jumpers. We mark the profiles for cutting. According to the markings, we cut the profile with a grinder.

We stretch the cord horizontally and, according to this marking, fix the jumpers with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Installed jumpers. They are necessary if the size of the plasterboard sheet is smaller than the height of the walls

On a note! Use magnetic screwdriver bits. This will simplify and speed up installation.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame

Let's look at an example of installation on a metal profile frame. Installation of sheets on a wooden frame is carried out in the same way; the joints of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. Direct contact of drywall with the floor should not be allowed; plastic pads will be placed under the sheets. Also, you should not attach the sheets tightly end to end; it is better to leave a gap of 1 mm between the edges for ease of puttying.

For cladding we use sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard 12 mm thick. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The pitch between the screws is approximately 15-17 cm. We screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern.

First, we fasten the sheets along the perimeter, then along the line of vertical profiles. We draw a vertical line according to the level and make fastenings along this line. We recess the screw caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Puttying seams

The joints of the sheets must be puttied using a mesh and moisture-resistant putty. If the drywall edges have a hand-cut edge, chamfer it at a 45-degree angle with a sharp knife. A primer is applied to the joints. The mesh is embedded in the putty mixture. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with sandpaper.

Mosaic wall decoration

To fix the mosaic on the walls of the bathhouse, it is better to use moisture-resistant glue, for example, Ceresit CM 115.

Step 1. Prepare the glue.

The room temperature should be from +5 to +30°C. The recommended water temperature for the adhesive mixture is from +15 to +20°C.

Gradually add the dry mixture to the water. For 1.5 liters of water, 5 kg of mixture is required. Mixing is done with a construction mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment. The speed of the drill or mixer should not exceed 400-800 rpm. After the first mixing, pause for 5 minutes and repeat mixing.

Advice! You should not prepare a lot of glue at once; the time of its use is limited to 20-30 minutes. Do not dilute the finished glue with water. If it thickens slightly, you need to stir the mixture well.

Step 2. Apply glue to the wall. We start gluing the mosaic from the upper left corner. Scoop up a little glue with a regular spatula and apply the mixture to the edge of a notched trowel. Distribute the glue evenly over the drywall.

Step 3. Unpack the mosaic, take one fragment and press the mesh to the glue. Carefully straighten so that there is an equal distance between the elements. Roll the entire fragment with a roller or wide rubber spatula.

It is important to lay them level so that the rows are even. The area of ​​applied glue should not greatly exceed the size of one fragment.

You can only cut the mesh; it is not recommended to deform the pieces of ceramics or glass themselves.

Step 4. 24 hours later (or more, depending on the speed of drying of the glue) after laying the mosaic, we grout it. To fill the seams, we use a moisture-repellent composition with antifungal properties, for example, Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic.

For 2 kilograms of dry mixture you will need 640 ml of cool water. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer at a speed of up to 800 rpm. Gradually pour the dry mixture into the water. After mixing, take a five-minute break and repeat mixing the grout. The finished solution must be used within two hours. It is unacceptable to exceed the specified amount of water, so as not to deteriorate the properties of the grout.

Apply the grout to the mosaic with a rubber spatula, spreading it diagonally. After 15-20 minutes, remove the excess with a damp (but not wet) sponge or rag. We remove the remaining grout from the surface of the mosaic with a dry rag.

You can decorate a shower room or dressing room entirely with mosaics, or combine this finishing material with ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Soapstone chlorite is highly valued by bathhouse attendants for its beneficial properties. The stone accumulates heat well, cools down for a long time, and the vapors emanating from the soapstone have a healing effect on the body.

Soapstone is used to decorate stoves and walls in steam rooms, but nothing will prevent you from decorating, for example, a relaxation room in a bathhouse or a shower room with tiles made from this stone.

Soapstone is available in various variations - tiles with a smooth or textured surface, mosaics and even bricks. Manufacturers offer baseboards, borders and corners made of soapstone as additional elements. If you are finishing the wall in a steam room, you will need heat-resistant stone adhesive (used for lining stoves and fireplaces), and when lining a shower room it is better to use moisture-resistant mixtures.

The surface on which the tiles will be laid must be flat and pre-primed. The tiles are laid from the bottom up, keeping the rows horizontal. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel and the tiles are carefully pressed against the wall. Laying is possible both end-to-end, that is, without gaps between adjacent elements, and under jointing. The second method is suitable for tiles of regular shape and with a smooth surface. Cutting tiles is done with a grinder with a diamond blade. The joints are grouted with a heat-resistant stone mixture.

The combination of soapstone tiles with different textures looks quite extraordinary.

A combination of smooth soapstone tiles and tiles with a “torn stone” texture

Video - Extraction and processing of soapstone

Video - Technology of gluing decorative stone

Remember - finishing the inside of a bath should not only be exclusive, but also practical. It is important that finishing materials do not contribute to the development of mold and mildew, are easy to clean, safe for health and as durable as possible.

The steam room is the most important room of the bathhouse, because there is no bathhouse without a steam room. Traditionally, around this small room, for convenience, additional spaces are designed, of which there can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower, a relaxation room, a swimming pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to decorate the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will not just be the external design of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of problems:

• walls are being prepared;
• thermal insulation is applied;
• thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
• external finishing is carried out;
• Design developments are brought to life, giving the interior completeness and aesthetics.

The finishing of the steam room is divided into several important stages and takes place sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. Therefore, the first two important steps are:

• choosing a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless during temperature changes;
• selection of the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Choice of insulation and vapor barrier

Baths have been built from century to century; ancestors used natural materials to insulate them: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and maximally environmentally friendly; they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. To insulate a steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the production of which rock waste is used as a raw material. This material is produced both in rolls and in slabs. It is resistant to microorganisms, environmentally friendly, and durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply irreplaceable for thermal insulation of those areas of the wall and ceiling that are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rots, can withstand the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to placing a steam room.

As for vapor barrier materials, foil films become the most effective at 100% humidity and maximum temperatures.

Selection of finishing material

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but the most important are the performance qualities:

• hygiene,
• resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
• safety and complete absence of toxins,
• durability and reliability.

Attention! When producing a steam room, it is prohibited to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various types of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances released by artificial materials can seriously harm your health.

The most suitable materials for finishing a steam room are considered to be lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to construct a Russian-style bathhouse and a Finnish sauna. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwoods, since they do not emit resins in the heat.

1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength; such wood does not rot or crack.
2. Lining made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give you relaxation.
3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, and this species is very durable.
4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Hardwoods dry out quickly and are therefore not threatened by fungus. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots, which can cause harm to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause serious burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, you must definitely check the pine boards for the presence of so-called “resin pockets”.

The finishing of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.

Preparation for finishing work

Installation work begins after the electrical supply has been made, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.

For finishing you will need the following materials and tools:

• building level,
• fastening device,
• hammer drill,
• screwdriver,
• hammer,
• linings for sheathing,
• clampers. and self-tapping screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, starting work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To prevent heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled using wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently end up at different heights.

Installation of sheathing and insulation

No. Illustration Comment

1		To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which has been leveled in advance.
2		And only then the timber sheathing is attached. Use well-dried timber 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The installation distance should not be more than 1 m. It is excellent if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3		First, guides are mounted level on the wall. After this, according to the principle of racks, the outermost bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4		Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that forms between the floor plane and the stand allows for the “movement” of the wood during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is covered with a plinth). After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach bars of a smaller cross-section to them. This method of fastening is called floating; it will help avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire sheathing is adjusted to the level and secured, and pads are used if necessary.
		For semicircular or patterned surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole beam, but parts of it.
5		Insulation is placed into the constructed frame. Over time, mineral wool can slip or become deformed, so it is secured with polypropylene twine.
6		Then a second layer of vapor barrier is placed with the rough side to the insulation, and it is fixed with a stapler.
7		To prevent the tree from being subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing an antiseptic for wood

The purchased wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, infectious agents and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When purchasing, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Among the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, it can provide fire-retardant impregnation and protection of affected areas of wood. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for steam rooms and protects wood from rotting.

100% natural flaxseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the best environmental choice.

Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Thanks to its high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensation, and prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stains, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

Treating wood with an antiseptic

To work you will need:

• short-haired brush or brush,
• White Spirit,
• warm water,
• soap.

The surface to be finished must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will adhere more tenaciously.

The timber and lining must be impregnated from all sides, after which the wood must dry (48 hours). Before use, it is recommended to heat linseed oil TM “GreenTherm” in a steam bath to 40°-45° degrees C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or rag.

Attention! The brush should only be short-haired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a long-haired brush is not suitable for the job.

Excess oil that the wood has not absorbed is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between applying 2-3 layers, technological breaks of at least 12 hours are observed. The ends of boards and timber are treated especially carefully. Drying requires 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20° C and a relative air humidity of no more than 65%. The presence of excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as desired, in accordance with the artistic design concept. But when decorating a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unevenly, because at the top of the room the temperature is the highest, and at the bottom it is the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is carried out unevenly, the boards will very quickly “lead” to high humidity. The logical choice is to place the boards horizontally.

If the lining is fastened horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along its entire length, and bending deformation does not occur. Of course, different finishing elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not at all affect the overall appearance of the cladding.

Fastening the lining

Before starting work, you need to take measurements of the steam room and cut the lining to the required height.

The choice of fastening type depends on the room temperature.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps rather than nails. The finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so they can cause burns. The clamps are completely invisible, and the lining secured by them can be dismantled and installed several times.

The steam room is lined from the stove and goes around the perimeter of the room. The correct installation direction is from top to bottom.

The board is attached with the groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The lining boards are assembled “groove into tenon”, like a construction set.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will flow freely without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from rotting. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws; in this case, they can be easily dismantled and replaced without dismantling the entire sheathing structure. The trim is nailed onto the door opening using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the paneling and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will begin to rot on the reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One smart solution is to lay a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Finishing the bath

Choosing tile or stone

For a good bath, with the smell of natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, finishing with tiles made of natural stone: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and coil is suitable.

These natural materials can withstand the highest temperatures and have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for the floor and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic finishing is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made from clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors or fumes at all. To decorate the steam room, choose products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors; it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video - Terracotta tiles in the bathhouse

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters you need to prepare:

• level and tape measure,
• 6 square meters of ceramic or stone tiles,
• three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
• one package of Terracotta grout,
• drill for stirring with attachment,
• construction gun,
• hammer,
• putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant adhesive from the Terracotta company is used in areas where the temperature will not exceed 400° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic; it is used in places where heating is up to 1100° C.

First, the base is prepared. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is applied, then a mesh is applied, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

A cement screed is made on the floor, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and a drainage system must be provided. Twine or fishing line is stretched along the perimeter of the floor or wall; it will be possible to check the correct installation.

Before laying begins, the ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

When producing a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed thoroughly, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from bottom to top, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely cut drywall instead of crosses. When installing drain holes on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

Floor tiles are installed using glue with sand; glue without sand may shrink. All other rows are placed according to the level with the already created slope.

Mortar is applied to the back of each tile so that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed to the floor. It is then pressed down with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant Terracotta grout is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is filled with water and mixed with a mixer. After this, the solution can be poured into the gun tube, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! The grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only then easily remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work has been completed, the first fire can be carried out.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room

For a long time in Rus', the insulation of bathhouse walls was carried out exclusively with natural materials: felt, flax and moss were used, which are occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of walls in a bathhouse in this case requires special skill. Modern synthetic materials are much better - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse seems like a simple question, but in reality there are many nuances. And the more you know about this, the warmer and safer your bathhouse will be.

For reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate the inside of the bathhouse exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films, sealed from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of insulation of log walls

It would seem, why do the walls need insulation in log structures? After all, the bathhouse looks quite hermetically sealed when installed? The fact is that a building material such as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, which causes serious cracks to form. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not beneficial either for health or for finances in terms of unnecessary expenses on fuel. Therefore, such a bathhouse needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is inter-crown caulking.

All you need to do is lay out the insulation during the construction of the log house, and upon completion of construction, treat the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with sealant.

Technology of the insulation process of frame, block and brick walls

But insulating the walls inside a frame bath is more intricate - here you need your own methods. After all, such a structure cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. Insulation can only be used if it is light in weight. And polystyrene foam as external insulation is simply irreplaceable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary construction adhesive.

The insulation of the walls from the inside in the bathhouse itself looks like this:

• Step 1. Create a frame on the load-bearing wall.
• Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
• Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a polyethylene film. They need to be laid with an overlap, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
• Step 4. Everything is covered with boards or clapboards - that's all.

As an option, use special polyurethane foam boards.

Insulating walls from the outside - how to wrap a bathhouse in a “fur coat”

It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And high-quality external thermal insulation means a significant reduction in fuel consumption, humidity control and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odors. After all, the main task of external insulation of a bathhouse is to cover building structures and protect them from contact with cold air and precipitation.

Next, how to insulate walls in a bathhouse made of bricks and various types of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But good old mineral wool is most suitable as a heat insulator for such a “pie”: it is environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproofing and has low thermal conductivity. The insulation process itself looks like this:

• Step 1. The brackets, which are made in the form of squares, are attached. Between them there is a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
• Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted between the angles, which must be elastic and able to withstand significant pressure.
• Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
• Step 4. The walls are covered with rolled waterproofing, and it, in turn, is secured with thin slats.
• Step 5. Now - installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil penotherm is foamed polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and levsan with a metal coating. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates truly effective bath insulation.