Do-it-yourself air dehumidifiers: how to replace a store-bought device. Design and operating rules of an air dryer for KAMAZ Fig. 10 Placement of a dryer for a compressor in front of the air collector

During the filling phase of the system, the compressor pumps compressed air enters chamber A through entrance 1 (Fig. 6-9). Here, condensate formed as a result of a decrease in temperature flows through channel C into the outlet (e).

Air through filter fine cleaning(g) and an annular chamber (h), built into the cartridge, tends to the top of the cartridge with granulate (b). When passing through the granule(s), moisture is removed from the air and deposited in it. surface layer(A). The dried air through the check valve (c), input 21 and connected brake devices enters the brake system receivers. At the same time, the dried air enters the regeneration receiver through the throttle hole and inlet 22.

Rice. 6-9. Air dryer 432 410...O

Air enters through hole (i) into chamber D and the cut-off pressure acts on the membrane (t). After overcoming the spring force, the inlet port (n) opens, and then the piston (d) under the influence of pressure opens the outlet port (e).

Now the air pumped by the compressor rushes into the atmosphere through chamber A, channel C and outlet 3. At the same time, piston (d) takes on the function of a safety valve. When overpressure piston (d) automatically opens outlet (e).

If the pressure in the device drops due to air flow below the switch-on pressure, then the inlet port (p) closes and the pressure in chamber B is reduced by releasing air through the regulator. The outlet (e) closes and the drying process begins again.

Receivers are designed to accumulate compressed air produced by a compressor and to power pneumatic brake drive devices, as well as to power other pneumatic components and systems of the vehicle.

KAMAZ vehicles with an 8x8 wheel arrangement have six receivers with a capacity of 20 liters each, and two of them are connected to form a reservoir with a capacity of 40 liters. The receivers are secured with clamps to the car frame brackets. Three receivers are combined into a unit and installed on a single bracket.

Four-circuit safety valve(Fig. 6-10) is designed to divide the compressed air coming from the compressor into four circuits: for automatic shutdown one of the circuits in case of violation of its tightness and preservation of compressed air in sealed circuits; to preserve compressed air in all circuits in the event of a leak in the supply line.

The four-circuit safety valve is attached to the side member of the vehicle chassis base frame and is connected to a supply tube coming from the pressure regulator through the condensation receiver. Compressed air entering the four-circuit protective valve from the supply line, upon reaching the specified opening pressure set by the force of the springs of 9 valves, opens valves 1 located in the top cover of the protective valve and enters through the terminals into two main circuits. At the same time, compressed air, acting on membrane 8, lifts it. After opening the check valves 1, compressed air flows through the channel to the valves 6 located in the lower cover of the safety valve, opens them and passes through the terminals into the additional circuit, simultaneously raising the lower membrane.

Rice. 6-10. Four-circuit safety valve:

1 - valve; 2 - valve; 3 - body; 4 - pusher; 5 - spring; 6 - valve; 8 - membrane; 9 - valve spring; 10 - valve spring guide; 11 - spring plate; 12 - saddle; 13 - cover; 14 - spring; 15 - protective cap; 17 — adjusting screw; 21, 23 - traffic jam; 25 - screw; 27 - valve assembly.

If the tightness of one of the main circuits is broken, the pressure in this circuit, as well as at the inlet to the valve and in the working circuit, drops to the closing pressure of the valve of the faulty circuit.

As a result, the valve of the serviceable circuit and the check valve of the additional circuit are closed, preventing a decrease in pressure in these circuits. Thus, in working circuits, a pressure will be maintained corresponding to the opening pressure of the valve of the faulty circuit, while an excess amount of compressed air will exit through the faulty circuit. If the additional circuit fails, the pressure drops in all working circuits and at the inlet to the valve. This happens until the valve of the faulty circuit closes. With the further supply of compressed air to the four-circuit safety valve, the pressure in the circuits will be maintained at the level of the opening pressure of the valve of the faulty circuit.

If the line leading from the compressor to the four-circuit safety valve fails, the valves of the main circuits close, preventing a drop in pressure in all circuits.

Condensate drain speck(Fig. 6-11) is designed for forced draining of condensate from the receiver of the pneumatic brake drive, as well as for releasing compressed air from it if necessary. The condensate drain valve is screwed into the threaded boss on the lower part of the receiver body. The connection between the tap and the receiver boss is sealed with a gasket.

Rice. 6-11. Condensate drain valve:

1 - body; 2 - pusher; 3 - spring; 4, 5 - ring.

The two-section brake valve (Fig. 6-12) is used to control the actuators of the dual-circuit drive of the vehicle’s service brake system.

The crane is controlled by a pedal directly connected to the brake valve.

The crane has two independent sections located in series. Inputs I and II of the valve are connected to the receivers of two separate drive circuits of the service brake system. From terminals III and IV, compressed air flows to the brake chambers. When you press the brake pedal, the force is transmitted through the pusher 6, plate 9 and elastic element 31 to the follower piston 30. Moving down, the follower piston 30 first closes the outlet hole of the valve 29 of the upper section of the brake valve, and then lifts the valve 29 from the seat in the upper housing 32, opening the passage of compressed air through input II and output III and further to the actuators of one of the circuits.

The pressure at terminal III increases until the force of pressing pedal 1 is balanced by the force created by this pressure on piston 30. This is how the tracking action is carried out in the upper section of the brake valve. Simultaneously with the increase in pressure at port III, compressed air through hole A enters cavity B above the large piston 28 of the lower section of the brake valve. Moving down, the large piston 28 closes the outlet of the valve 17 and lifts it from the seat in the lower housing. Compressed air through input I flows to output IV and then to the actuators of the first circuit of the service brake system.

Rice. 6-12. Brake valve with pedal drive:

1 - pedal;

2 - adjusting bolt;

3 - protective cover;

4 - roller axis;

6 - pusher;

7 - base plate;

9 - plate;

10, 16, 19, 27 - sealing rings;

11 — hairpin;

12 - follower piston spring;

13, 24 - valve springs;

14, 20 - valve spring plates;
15 - small piston;

17 - valve of the lower section;

18 - small piston pusher;

21 - atmospheric valve;

22 - thrust ring;

23 - atmospheric valve body;

25 - lower body;

26 - small piston spring;

28 - large piston;

29 - valve of the upper section;

30 - follower piston;

31 - elastic element;

32 - upper body.
A - hole;

B - cavity above the large piston; I, II - input from the receiver; III, IV - output to the brake chambers of the rear and front wheels, respectively.

Simultaneously with the increase in pressure at terminal IV, the pressure under pistons 15 and 28 increases, as a result of which the force acting on piston 28 from above is balanced. As a result, a pressure corresponding to the force on the brake valve lever is also established at terminal IV. This is how the tracking action is carried out in the lower section of the brake valve.

If the upper section of the brake valve fails, the lower section will be controlled mechanically through the pin 11 and the pusher 18 of the small piston 15, fully maintaining its functionality. In this case, the tracking action is carried out by balancing the force applied to pedal 1 with air pressure on the small piston 15. If the lower section of the brake valve fails, the upper section works as usual.

Parking brake control valve(Fig. 6-13) from WABCO is designed to operate the auxiliary brake system, as well as the parking brake system of a vehicle without a trailer, together with brake chambers with spring energy accumulators.

Manual brake valve 961 723 1 ..0 for auxiliary and parking brake systems is used in conjunction with spring accumulator brake chambers. An additional connection to the trailer brake control valve ensures that the braking effect is transmitted to the trailer. There is a control position to check the effectiveness of the vehicle's parking brake.

The faucet is secured with two screws on the additional instrument panel, to the right of the driver.

Rice. 6-13. Parking brake control valve.

Rice. 6-14. Crane handle positions:

A - position disinhibited;

IN - intermediate position assisted braking;

C is the point of greatest force on the handle;

D - parking position is inhibited (the handle is fixed);

E - removing the fixed position of the handle;

K - automatic return of the handle to the released position.

Operating principle:

1. Auxiliary brake

In the “released” position, valve (c) holds open the passage between chambers A and B, and the compressed air supplied through output 1 passes through inlet 21 into the chambers of the spring energy accumulator of the pneumatic cylinder. At the same time, compressed air through the control valve (b) and chamber C enters terminal 22 and terminal 43 of the trailer brake control valve.

When the handle (a) is turned and the auxiliary brake system is activated, the valve (c) closes the passage between chambers A and B. Compressed air from the chambers of the spring energy accumulator is released into the atmosphere through the opened outlet (d) at terminal 3. At the same time, the pressure in chamber B decreases and the piston (e) moves downward under the influence of the compression spring (i). After the exhaust is closed, the closing position is reached in all braking positions, i.e. in the chambers of the spring energy accumulator there is always pressure corresponding to the required deceleration.

2. Parking position

By further moving the handle (a) beyond the movable stop, the parking position is reached. The outlet (d) remains open and the compressed air is completely released from the chambers of the spring energy accumulator. In the auxiliary braking area (from the “released” position to the movable stop point), after releasing the handle, it automatically returns back to the “released” position. Using the main and additional control valves combined together, it is possible to check whether the mechanical forces of the tractor's parking brake system are sufficient to hold the combination on a descent or ascent when the trailer brake system is released.

3. Control position

In the “released” position, chambers A, B and C are connected to each other and the compressed air supplied through terminal 21 passes to the chambers of the spring energy accumulator, as well as through terminal 22 to the trailer brake control valve. When moving the handle (a), the pressure in chambers B and C decreases until it becomes equal to 0 when the movable stop is reached. When moving behind the movable stop, the handle (a) moves to an intermediate position (parking brake position). When the handle is further moved to the control position, the compressed air present in chamber A passes through open valve(b) into chamber C. When compressed air is released through port 22, the trailer brake valve is controlled, which cancels the pneumatic braking of the trailer that occurs during braking with the auxiliary or parking brake. Now the freight road train is held only thanks to the mechanical force of the pneumatic chambers of the spring energy accumulator of the tractor. Once the handle(s) are released, it returns back to the parking brake position, which activates the trailer braking system.

Pneumatic crane with push-button control is designed to supply and shut off compressed air. It controls the pneumatic cylinders of the auxiliary brake system.

The design of a pneumatic valve is shown in Fig. 6-15. A filter 20 is installed in the atmospheric outlet II of the pneumatic tap, which prevents dirt and dust from entering the tap. Compressed air enters the pneumatic valve through outlet I. When you press button 8, pusher 9 moves down and with its outlet seat presses on valve 15, disconnecting outlet III from atmospheric outlet P. Then pusher 9 presses valve 15 from the inlet seat of the housing , thereby opening the passage for compressed air from terminal I to terminal III and further into the line to the pneumatic actuator.

When button 8 is released, pusher 9 returns to the upper position under the action of spring 13. In this case, valve 15 closes the hole in housing 2, stopping further flow of compressed air into terminal III, and the pusher seat 9 comes off valve 15, thereby connecting terminal III with atmospheric terminal II. Compressed air from port III through hole A in pusher 9 and port II escapes into the atmosphere.

Rice. 6-15. Pneumatic valve:

1, 11, 12 - thrust rings; 2 - body; 3, 5, 10 - sealing rings; 4 - rod spring plate; 6 - bushing; 7 - protective cover; 8 - button; 9 - pusher; 13 - pusher spring; 15 - valve: 16 - valve spring; 17 - valve guide; 18 - rivet; 19 - transport plug; 20 - filter. 1 - from the supply line; II - into the atmosphere; III - to the control line.

Accelerator valves designed to reduce the response time of the spare brake system drive (valve 25, Fig. 6-1) and the drive of the service brake system of the front axles (valve 27, Fig. 6-1) by reducing the length of the compressed air inlet line into spring energy accumulators and releasing air from them directly through the accelerating valve into the atmosphere. Valve 25 is installed on the inner side of the vehicle frame side member in the rear bogie area. Valve 27 is installed on a bracket fixed to the first cross member of the frame.

The relay valve structure is shown in Fig. 6-16. Compressed air from the receiver is supplied to terminal III. Pin IV is connected to the control device - the brake valve reverse action With manual control, and terminal I is with a spring energy accumulator. If there is no pressure in port IV, piston 3 is in the upper position. The inlet valve 4 is closed under the action of the spring 5, and the outlet valve 1 is open. Through the open exhaust valve 1 and terminal I, spring energy accumulators communicate with atmospheric terminal I. The car is braked by spring energy accumulators.

When compressed air is supplied to terminal IV from the manual brake valve, it enters the above-piston space. Piston 3 moves downward under the influence of compressed air, first closes exhaust valve 1 and then opens inlet valve 4. The cylinders of spring energy accumulators connected to terminal I are filled with compressed air from the receiver through terminal III and the open inlet valve 4.

Rice. 6-16. Accelerator valve:

1 - exhaust valve; 2 - upper body; 3 - piston; 4 - inlet valve; 5 - spring; 6 - valve body; 7, 8, 9, 10 - O-shaped ring; 11 - guide cap assembly; 12 - transport plug; 13 - lower body; 14 - thrust ring; 15, 16 — cap; 17 - bolt; 18 - washer; 19 - nut. Conclusions:

I - to the two-line valve;

II - atmospheric output;

III - from the receiver;

IV - from the parking brake system control valve.

The proportionality of the control pressure at terminal IV and the output pressure at terminal I is carried out by piston 3. When the pressure in terminal I reaches the pressure corresponding to the pressure at terminal IV, piston 3 moves upward until the inlet valve 4, moving under the action of spring 5, closes. pressure in the control line (that is, at terminal IV), piston 3, due to the higher pressure at terminal I, moves upward and breaks away from exhaust valve 1. Compressed air from spring energy accumulators exits through the open exhaust valve I, the hollow body of 6 valves and the atmospheric valve into the atmosphere, the car slows down.

Double-line valve(Fig. 6-17) serves to power pneumatic devices from one of two compressed air lines connected to the valve.

When air is supplied from the pressure regulator, valve 3 moves and closes the line inlet from the receivers, the compressed air passes to the parking brake system control valve. When using compressed air from receivers, the valve closes the main line inlet on the side of the pressure regulator. Compressed air also passes to the parking brake control valve. The valve is connected to the supply line from the pressure regulator on one side, and from the receivers of circuit III on the other. The third output of the valve is connected to the input of the parking brake system control valve.

Thus, the valve ensures the supply of compressed air to the input of the accelerator valve from the receivers, and if there is no air in them, from the control line of the parking brake system control valve.

Rice. 6-17. Dual-way bypass valve:

1 - sealing ring; 2 - body; 3 - valve; 4 - insert; 5 - spring.

Brake chambers in the service brake system, they are actuators that convert the energy of compressed air into work to activate the vehicle’s braking mechanism. Depending on the version, it is intended for mechanical or hydraulic transmission of force.

In the first circuit they are used brake chambers type 30. The number 30 in the designation of the chamber type indicates the active area of ​​the chamber membrane in square inches at normal stroke of the brake chamber rod. The second circuit uses 30/24 type brake chambers with spring energy accumulators. Waferless brake chambers are secured using bolts welded to the chamber body and nuts to a bracket on the steering knuckle (front brake chambers) or on the brake mechanism.

Brake chamber with spring energy accumulator type 30/24 designed to activate the brake mechanisms of the wheels of the rear trolley of the car when the service, spare and parking brake systems are activated.

Spring energy accumulators together with brake chambers are installed on the brackets of the expansion knuckles of the brake mechanisms of the rear bogie and secured with two nuts and bolts.

Pneumatic cylinders designed to activate the mechanisms of the auxiliary brake system. KAMAZ vehicles are equipped with three pneumatic cylinders:

Two cylinders with a diameter of 35 mm and a piston stroke of 65 mm (Fig. 6-18 a) to control throttle valves installed in the exhaust pipes of the engine;

One cylinder with a diameter of 30 mm and a piston stroke of 25 mm (Fig. 6-18, b) to control the regulator lever fuel pump high pressure.

Pneumatic cylinder 35x65 hinged on the bracket using a pin. The cylinder rod is connected with a threaded fork to the damper control lever. When the auxiliary brake system is turned on, compressed air from the pneumatic valve through the outlet in cover 1 (Fig. 6-18, a) enters the cavity under piston 2. Piston 2, overcoming the force of return springs 3, moves and acts through rod 4 on the lever control of the damper, moving it from the “OPEN” position to the “CLOSED” position. When compressed air is released, piston 2 with rod 4 under the action of springs 3 returns to initial position. In this case, the damper rotates to the “OPEN” position.

Rice. 6-18. Pneumatic cylinders for the flap drive of the auxiliary brake system mechanism (a) and the engine stop lever drive (b):

1 - cylinder; 2 - piston; 3 - bushing; 4 - spring; 5 - emphasis; 6 - sealing ring; 7 - cylinder cover; 8 - O-ring; 9 - rivet; 10 - transport plug; 11 - spring.

Pneumatic cylinder 30x25 pivotally mounted on the high pressure fuel pump regulator cover. The cylinder rod is connected to the regulator lever by a threaded fork. When the auxiliary brake system is turned on, compressed air from the pneumatic valve through the outlet in the cylinder cover 1 (Fig. 6-18, b) enters the cavity under the piston 2. Piston 2, overcoming the force of the return spring 3, moves and acts through the rod 4 on the fuel pump regulator lever, moving it to the zero flow position. The fuel control pedal linkage system is connected to the cylinder rod in such a way that the pedal does not move when the auxiliary brake system is activated. When compressed air is released, piston 2 with rod 4, under the action of spring 3, returns to its original position.

Test Output Valve(Fig. 6-19) is intended for connecting control and measuring instruments to the drive for the purpose of checking pressure, as well as for sampling compressed air.

There are five such valves installed on KAMAZ vehicles - in all circuits of the pneumatic brake drive. To connect to the valve, use hoses and measuring instruments with union nut Ml6x1.5.

When measuring pressure or to take compressed air, unscrew the cap 4 of the valve and screw the union nut of the hose connected to the control pressure gauge or any consumer onto the body 2. When screwed on, the nut moves the pusher 5 with the valve, and air enters the hose through the radial and axial holes in the pusher 5. After disconnecting the hose, the pusher 5 with the valve, under the action of the spring 6, is pressed against the seat in the housing 2, closing the outlet of compressed air from the pneumatic actuator.

Rice. 6-19. Test Output Valve:

1 - body; 2 - pusher; 3 - wing nut; 4 - tape; 5 - spring; b, 7, 8 - ring.

The pressure drop sensor (Fig. 6-20) is a pneumatic switch designed to close the circuit of electric lamps and an audio signal (buzzer) alarm when the pressure in the receivers of the pneumatic brake drive drops. Sensors using external thread on the body they are screwed into the receivers of all brake drive circuits, as well as into the fittings of the drive circuit of the parking and spare brake systems, and when they are turned on, the red indicator light on the instrument panel and the brake signal lamps light up.

The sensor has normally closed central contacts, which open when the pressure rises above 441.3-539.4 kPa (4.5-5.5 kgf/cm).

Rice. 6-20. Pressure drop sensor:

1 - body: 2 - membrane; 3 - fixed contact:

4 - pusher; 5 - movable contact; 6 - spring;

7 - adjusting screw: 8 - insulator.

Rice. 6-21. Brake light sensor:

1 - body; 2 - membranes a; 3 - movable contact; 4 - spring; 5 - fixed contact output; 6 - fixed contact; 7 - cover.

When the specified pressure is reached in the drive, the membrane 2 bends under the action of compressed air and, through the pusher 4, acts on the movable contact 5. The latter. overcoming the force of spring 6, it breaks away from fixed contact 3 and breaks the electrical circuit of the sensor. Closing the contact, and therefore turning on warning lamps and buzzer, occurs when the pressure drops below the specified value.

The brake signal switch (Fig. 6-21) is a pneumatic switch designed to close the circuit of electric warning lamps during braking. The sensor has normally open contacts that close at a pressure of 78.5-49 kPa (0.8-0.5 kgf/cm2) and open when the pressure decreases below 49-78.5 kPa (0.8-0.5 kgf /cm 2). The sensors are installed in the lines supplying compressed air to the actuators of the brake systems.

When compressed air is supplied under the membrane, the latter bends, and movable contact 3 connects contacts 6 electrical circuit sensor

The control valve for trailer brake systems with a two-wire drive (Fig. 6-22) is designed to activate the brake drive of a trailer (semi-trailer) when any of the separate drive circuits of the tractor's service brake system are turned on, as well as when the spring energy accumulators of the spare and standing drive are turned on -night brake systems of the tractor.

The valve is mounted on the tractor frame with two bolts.

Rice. 6-22. Control valve

Household dehumidifier is a portable electrical device that is designed to reduce and maintain comfortable relative air humidity in the premises of a house or apartment.

For everyday use, air dehumidifiers are usually produced that work on the principle of cooling air and condensing water from it using a built-in compressor with an evaporator, as in refrigerators. That's why they are called condensation. Such dehumidifiers have high performance and are able to quickly create and constantly maintain a relative air humidity within the range of 40-60% that is comfortable for people, pets and property in the room.

Design and principle of operation
condensation dehumidifier

If you remove the food storage cabinet with freezer from the refrigerator body, and place everything else in a separate housing, you will get a condensation dehumidifier, which is shown in the photo.

Let's look at the design and principle of operation of an air dryer using the example of the German model “Kaut K20”, the diagram of which is shown in the drawing.

Humid air from the room is sucked into the dehumidifier body through the grille on the front panel of the dehumidifier due to the rotation of the fan blades. Next, the air passes through a heat exchanger, in which water is removed from it, passes through a filter and returns back to the room already dry.

The heat exchanger consists of two zones - warm and cold. First, moist air enters the heated zone of the heat exchanger and is heated. It then passes through the cold zone of the heat exchanger and is cooled. Since the temperature difference between the heated air and the cold zone of the heat exchanger is large, water from the air is deposited on its ribs (condenses) and flows down the walls into the condensate tray.

Electrical circuit and operating principle

Air dehumidifier electrical network alternating current 220 V is connected using an electrical plug type C6. To indicate the supply voltage to the circuit, an indicator made on a neon light bulb HL1 is installed on the front panel.

When the dehumidifier operates, water is removed from the air and collected in a 5.5 liter water collection tank. To prevent water overflow, a water level sensor S is installed, which, if the tank is full, turns off the dryer and turns on the neon tank-fill indicator HL2 installed on the front panel. Resistors R1 and R2 serve to limit the current flowing through neon bulbs. The water level sensor is made on a mechanical microswitch.

The required level of air humidity is set and maintained thanks to a gyrostat (H) type TW2001R-A, capable of regulating relative humidity in the range from 10% to 80%. The gyrostat is controlled using a knob located on the front panel of the dryer. When the relative humidity drops to a predetermined level, the gyrostat turns off the supply voltage to the fan and compressor.

To ensure air circulation through the heat exchanger, fan M is used, which has two speed modes. When switch I is closed, the supply voltage is supplied without limitation and the fan blades rotate with maximum speed. To reduce the noise level, for example, when the dehumidifier is operating at night, a current-limiting resistor R3 is installed, thanks to which when switch I opens, the speed of the blades is reduced. It is worth noting that in this mode the performance of the dryer also decreases.

To prevent the formation of an ice coat on the heat exchanger, the circuit has a control unit, and a temperature sensor is built into the heat exchanger. If the temperature of the cooling section of the heat exchanger approaches 0°C, the control unit turns off the compressor until the temperature rises.

How does the compressor work in a dryer?

The compressor is a hermetically sealed metal case cylindrical. It contains an electric motor with a system of valves, which, when the electric motor operates, creates high pressure at the outlet. Freon gas or other similar gases are used as a refrigerant in compressors. physical characteristics, for example R134a.

From the outlet of the compressor, heated and accepted liquid state from compression of freon through a copper tube, it first passes through the air heating heat exchanger zone, where it gives off its heat. Leaving the heating zone, the tube narrows to an internal diameter of 0.6-0.8 mm, forming a capillary more than half a meter long. Next, the tube expands again to its previous diameter.

Coming out of the capillary tube, freon is directed to the cooling zone of the heat exchanger. Due to the large difference in tube diameters, a pressure drop occurs. As a result, freon boils and goes into a gaseous state, absorbing a large number of heat that is taken from the cooling zone of the heat exchanger. After this, the freon returns to the compressor, where the gas is again compressed and sent to the heat exchanger. As long as the compressor motor is turned on, freon will circulate continuously through the heat exchanger.

The compressor works on this principle in any home refrigerator; only the heating part of the heat exchanger is installed on back wall his closet, and the cooling (freezer) is inside it.

Attention! When repairing a dehumidifier or any other electrical appliance connected to the household network, care should be taken. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical network may result in injury. electric shock. Don't forget to remove the plug from the socket!

DIY dehumidifier repair

Having studied the principle of operation and the electrical circuit of the air dryer, you can begin to repair it yourself.

The first step is to make sure that the water collection tank is not overfilled. Next, use the gyrostat knob to set the required humidity level, for example, by setting the pointer to number 6 (relative humidity 60%). The fan speed switch button must be in the recessed position. Then insert the dehumidifier plug into the socket; the green power connection indicator HL1 should light up and the red tank overflow indicator HL2 should not light up. The fan blades should rotate and the compressor should start working.

If the dehumidifier is working properly, then after 5-10 minutes of operation there should be cold air, and water will appear in the tank. Otherwise, the dehumidifier is faulty and requires repair.

Troubleshooting any electrical appliance always starts with the socket, plug and power cord. If the green indicator lights up, then everything is fine. Otherwise, you need to make sure that the socket, plug and power cord are in good working order. To check the socket, simply insert the plug of any electrical appliance into it, for example, a table lamp.

How to disassemble a dehumidifier

If the dryer does not work and the red indicator lights up, and there is no water in the tank, then the malfunction is associated with microswitch S. To check and repair it, the dryer must be disassembled.

In order to get to the parts and components, you need to remove the front and back panels, and the top cover. It is more convenient to start disassembling from the rear panel. To do this, you first need to unscrew the screw that holds the panel from the bottom.

Then unscrew four more screws located directly in the hidden holes of the panel and remove it. At the same time, it is worth checking the condition of the air filter.

Next, you need to unscrew the four screws in the hidden holes on the front panel and carefully remove it so as not to damage the wires coming from the controls. After this, all that remains is to push apart the lower edges of the U-shaped cover and remove it by sliding it up.

Now all components will be available for inspection and repair. The presented photograph contains inscriptions indicating the location of all the main components.

The first step is to carefully inspect all detachable connections. There should be no discoloration of coatings or blackening on them. Next, check that the connectors are securely seated on the terminals. To do this, you need to try to tug each of the connectors, holding it with your fingers; the connectors on the terminals should hold tightly. If the connector comes off easily, you need to tighten it with pliers.

Checking the tank water level indicator and sensor

First of all, you need to make sure that the water sensor pusher moves freely. To do this, you need to press your finger on the black key, which is located in the upper right corner of the water tank compartment.

When pressed and released, the key should easily retract and return to its original position. In this case, a characteristic click of the microswitch should be heard. The red indicator should go out when you press the key, and light up when you release it. If something is wrong, then you need to remove the sensor and find out why it is not working.

The water level sensor is installed on the fan side and is located to the right of its damping resistance. In order to get to the sensor, it is enough to unscrew a pair of screws and separate the two halves of the housing in which the microswitch is installed. In the photo the switch is blue.

At the last stage of the test, you need to check, using a multimeter or tester turned on in resistance measurement mode, the serviceability of the internal contacts of the microswitch.

Checking the serviceability of the gyrostat

If the water level sensor and signal indicator are in good working order, then the next element that controls the operation of the compressor is a gyrostat type TW2001R-A.

The gyrostat is metal box, which houses a humidity sensor mechanically connected to electrical contacts. This is practically a programmable switch that closes or opens contacts when a specified humidity level is reached.

To check the gyrostat, just set it using the knob on the control panel low level humidity and turn on the dehumidifier. If the fan blades are spinning, then the gyrostat is working properly. If the fan does not work, then it may be faulty. To check the fan, you need to short-circuit the gyrostat terminals or apply supply voltage directly to the fan terminals, having previously disconnected them from the dryer circuit.

The dehumidifier will not work unless the water tank is installed (the red light will be on). To make the dehumidifier work without a tank installed, you need to recess the water level sensor key and jam it using, for example, a piece of wire, as shown in the photo.

Checking the fan operation

If the fan blades rotate at insufficient speed or stop, the cooling heat exchanger will cool down to negative temperature. Then the control unit will turn off the compressor and the dryer will stop working.

The fan may not rotate well due to insufficient lubrication of the motor shaft bearings or faulty windings. To check the lubrication, just turn the blades by hand. The blades should continue to rotate for some time after the impact. If the blades rotate tightly and do not continue to rotate after exposure, then you need to lubricate the bearings through the holes provided for this in its body.

If this is not possible, then you will need to disassemble the engine, remove the old frozen lubricant using white alcohol and apply fresh one. If the windings are faulty, the motor will have to be replaced with a new one.

The fan may not work due to a malfunction of the button for switching its operating mode or the current-limiting resistor (resistance) shown in the photo. When you press the button for switching the speed of rotation of the fan blades, it should lock in the pressed state and the speed of rotation of the blades should increase.

If the fan operates when the button is pressed, but the blades do not rotate when the button is pressed, then the current-limiting resistor is faulty. If the button does not affect the speed, then it is faulty.

How to check compressor operation

If the check shows that power cord, the water level sensor, gyrostat and fan are working, then all that remains is to check the functionality of the control unit and compressor.

Of these two units, the easiest to check is the compressor, the label of which says that it operates on an alternating voltage of 220 V. To check, it is enough to apply a 220 V mains voltage to its input terminals using a separate cord with a plug.

To gain access to the terminals, you need to remove the protective plastic cover from the compressor, to do this, insert and press the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into the hole located on top of it. The latch will release and the cover will be easily removed.

There are three wires connected to the compressor. The wire yellow - green color is grounding, and black And blue the wires are supplied with supply voltage. Therefore, you need to remove the connectors from these contacts and apply 220 V to them. If everything is in order with the compressor, it will start working and after a couple of minutes the cooling zone of the heat exchanger will become cold. If the compressor motor is running and the temperature of the heat exchanger does not change, it means there is a freon leak.

If the compressor is faulty, you will have to contact service. At home without special equipment A home mechanic cannot repair the compressor on his own.

Checking and repairing the control unit

Applying supply voltage directly to the compressor showed its serviceability. Only the control unit remained unchecked and it is obvious that the dryer does not work due to its malfunction.

The photo shows the control unit of the Kaut K20 air dryer. It performs the function of turning off the compressor if the temperature of the cooling zone of the heat exchanger approaches zero. Thus, disruption of the operation of the dehumidifier due to the formation of a snow coat on the heat exchanger is eliminated.

To be able to maintain the set temperature of the cooling zone of the heat exchanger, a thermistor (thermal resistance) is installed between its fins, which is highlighted in blue in the photo. When the temperature changes, the value of its resistance changes. There are two wires coming from the thermistor, which are connected via a plug-in connection to the Control Unit.

The photo shows the reading of a multimeter when measuring the resistance of a thermistor at a temperature of 20°C. The thermal resistance in the air dryer being repaired turned out to be serviceable.

To check the serviceability of the thermistor, you need to disconnect the connector with the wires coming from it from the control unit and touch the probes of the multimeter to the contacts of the removed connector and measure the resistance value. It should be about 10 kOhm. If the resistance is zero, then there is a short circuit in the wires. And if it is equal to infinity, then either the wires are broken or the thermistor is faulty.

Consequently, the Control Unit (CU) itself is faulty. For search faulty element it needs to be removed. First you need to disconnect all connectors with wires from the terminals of the control unit. Before disconnecting the connectors, do not forget to photograph or sketch the order in which they are connected.

The control unit is attached to the base using four plastic stands. To release it, you need to squeeze the parts of the stands protruding above the printed circuit board with tweezers, as shown in the photo.

External inspection of the quality of rations and appearance radioelements did not reveal any deviations from the norm. Testing the diode, rectifier bridge and resistances with a multimeter showed their serviceability.

Checking resistors and semiconductor devices, installed on the side of the printed conductors of the control unit, also did not reveal any faulty parts. Only the capacitors and the microcircuit remained untested, since it is impossible to check them without soldering them.

To further troubleshoot the problem, the control unit decided to power it from a separate source. direct current, applying a supply voltage of 24 V to the plus and minus terminals of the rectifier bridge. The voltage value was selected based on the supply voltage of the relay, which is indicated on its body. Instead of a thermistor, a variable resistance of 15 kOhm was connected.

The current consumption was about 10 mA, which indicated the absence short circuit in the diagram. When the resistance value changed, the relay was activated, which indicated the operability of the voltage-fed electrical part of the control unit circuit.

It became obvious that there was a cliff current limiting capacitor with a capacity of 0.68 µF. You see him in the photo.

The failed capacitor was soldered out, and instead of it, two serviceable ones with a capacity of 0.33 μF were soldered in parallel. At parallel connection capacitors, the resulting capacitance is equal to the sum of the capacitances of each of them. The result was a capacitance of 0.66 μF, which is quite enough to replace a failed capacitor.

The control unit was connected without fixing to electrical diagram. When I turned on the dehumidifier it started working. All that remains is to securely install the capacitors on the printed circuit board.

On printed circuit board there was no space to install an additional capacitor. Therefore, I had to unsolder the resistor connected in parallel to the capacitor and additionally drill two holes in it, into which the second capacitor was installed and sealed.

The soldered resistor was soldered directly to the terminals of one of the capacitors. This installation of elements guaranteed reliable operation.

The self-repaired air dryer control unit board was installed and secured on standard racks. A repeated check confirmed the proper operation of the air dryer; after ten minutes of operation, water appeared in the condensate collection tray.

Repairing the network connection indicator

Even when connecting the dehumidifier to the household network for the first time, it was discovered that the top indicator, which should light up when the plug is connected to the socket, did not light up, although voltage was supplied to it, since the fan blades were rotating.

The indicator was a non-separable plastic cylinder with two terminals. The indicator was attached to the front panel using latches.

In order to get to the light source of the indicator, I had to cut it around the circumference using a hacksaw and break it at the cut point.

It turned out that inside there was neon light bulb, connected in series with a current-limiting resistor. Checking the resistor showed its serviceability. Consequently, the indicator did not work due to a faulty bulb.

A working green neon light bulb with a resistor was removed from the switch from the Pilot with a broken key. Such light bulbs are widely used as indicators in many household electrical appliances, for example, in an electric kettle and iron.

A working light bulb was soldered to the terminals of the indicator housing and tested. The broken plastic indicator tube was glued in place with Moment glue and additionally the plastic was melted using a soldering iron.

After installing the indicator in place and assembling the housing, the DIY air dryer repair was successfully completed.

Big variety various types pneumatic equipment allows you to perform a wide range of various kinds work both in large industries, in small auto repair shops, in various factories, and in domestic conditions. Depending on the type, its performance characteristics and technical indicators, you can choose equipment for small jobs around the house - from minor repairs to gardening work, and also for use in large industries.

To perform the work effectively, it is necessary to select the right equipment. In addition, the connection and use of pneumatic tools must be done correctly and taking into account the specifics of the work ahead. works from compressor system and therefore, first of all, it is necessary to choose the right compressor with the necessary characteristics - final pressure indicator, performance level and others.

So, after we took required compressor, suitable for working with the selected pneumatic equipment, it is necessary to connect the pneumatic tool correctly. Compliance with all rules and requirements both for connecting equipment to the compressor unit and for working with tools will not only allow you to complete everything competently and efficiently necessary work, but also eliminate the possibility of tool breakage and make the use of the entire pneumatic system as safe as possible.

Here you can familiarize yourself with the products sold by TekhMash Group of Companies LLC.

The first stage is preparation for work, which consists of competently organizing a system for supplying air under pressure to pneumatic equipment. This system, in addition to the compressor itself, consists of both main elements, which include flexible hoses, and additional ones - lubricators, various filters, as well as oil and moisture separators. The air supplied by the compressor contains various impurities - dust, abrasive particles, water, and also oil in the case of an oil compressor. The entry of dust and other particles into the pneumatic mechanism can lead to premature failure of the equipment, and the presence of moisture, which is the result of condensation, or oil, can negatively affect the quality of the work performed. That is why it is necessary to prevent these impurities from entering the pneumatic system.

To clean compressed air from oil or moisture, a moisture separator is used, which is especially necessary in the case of long and intensive work. If pneumatic equipment is used in domestic conditions and for a short time, it is enough to drain the condensate from the receiver before starting work. Air is purified from dust and other particles by filters, which can be either built into the compressor or installed additionally to more effectively remove impurities. In this case, it is necessary to periodically clean the filters or replace them, which will prevent failure of the filtration system and the entry of contaminated air into the pneumatic system.

When operating a pneumatic tool, it is necessary to provide it with a special lubricant, which prevents friction of the working elements and their premature failure. To do this, a lubricator is installed to ensure a regular supply of lubricant to the pneumatic system. The presence of a lubricator and oil separator, as well as their correct installation allows you to prevent breakdown of working parts of pneumatic equipment, while receiving purified compressed air.

The direct connection of pneumatic equipment to the compressor occurs using special hoses - in the case of using the equipment in domestic conditions. If the work is carried out in any production, first of all, a plastic or metal pipeline is installed, to which pneumatic equipment is then connected using splitters.

For connecting flexible hoses that carry compressed air from a source to pneumatic equipment, with a compressor, pneumatic tools and other parts of the pneumatic route, special nipples, fittings and adapters are used, which allow fastening to be performed with the highest quality.

When connecting and using pneumatic tools, you must comply with some safety requirements:

Usage pneumatic tools provides many advantages, including convenience and ease of operation, the ability to work in almost any conditions, carry out a wide range of work, and much more. Besides, correct connection and the use of pneumatic tools allows you to perform the necessary work as efficiently and quickly as possible. That is why pneumatic tools are used in many areas of activity - in construction and during repair and finishing works, in metalworking and mechanical engineering, mining and many other industries. In addition, such tools are especially popular in small businesses, service stations and private use.

The KamAZ air dryer is a device that removes excess oily liquid and moisture from the surface of the compressor.

Drying device air flow includes elements such as:

• control type piston;
• release device;
• muffler;
• exhaust valve;
• moisture separator chamber;
• valve reverse type;
• jet;
• ring filter element;
• pressure regulator and supply inlet;
• atmospheric output;
• fasteners for installation.

Air dehumidification is carried out by a compressor through which the air flow passes. The air then passes through a ring-type filter, where it is cleaned of carbon deposits and oil evaporation.

In the ring filter device, the air flow is cooled, due to which some of the moisture remains in the chamber of the drying device.

After the filters, the air passes through granular powder to a check valve. After it, it reaches the air receiver of the brake mechanism, passing through the outlets.

At the same time, filling occurs through the nozzle and outlet air receiver, which is used for regeneration. Airflow Cleaning and Initial Removal excess moisture in the ring filter element helps to increase the service life of the brake mechanisms.

How to install a dehumidifier

In order to install this device, you will need the following tools:

• wrench;
• welding machine;
• screwdriver;
• hammer.

Before installing an air dryer on a KamAZ truck, it is recommended to wear safety glasses and a mask to avoid injury.

Connection diagram and procedure during installation of the device:

1. Set transport to inspection hole or a platform for carrying out repair work.
2. Unscrew the fasteners and remove the vehicle bracket.
3. Remove the radiator from the car body.
4. Remove the O-rings and gasket.
5. Using the mounting bolts, screw the dehumidifier to the support frame.
6. Connect the pipe that comes from the compressor housing to the dryer.
7. Conduct visual inspection membrane density.
8. Run check check valve.
9. Check the pressure level in the system and the degree of air compression.
10. Check the functionality of the condensate drain valve.
11. Install the O-rings on the filter device.
12. Screw on the top cover.
13. Reinstall the radiator and bracket.

Operating rules

In order for the air regeneration device to function without failures, it is necessary to carry it out in a timely manner. Maintenance, according to the user manual. It is also recommended to inspect the device daily for damage and defects.

In order to check safety valve equipment, you need to tighten the hollow screw of the regulator until it stops. If the mechanism is working properly, then at pressure “A” the outlet valve will open, which must be sealed during the switching interval.

The check valve is serviced using a pressure gauge. If the pressure level drops to 0 bar, it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism and check the integrity of the parts.

In order to diagnose the drying device, you should lower the pressure level and determine the switching interval “C”. If the readings exceed the norm, it is recommended to turn the screw to the left, and if the readings are below the norm, to the right. After all the lock nuts have been tightened, you need to check the adjustment of the adjusting device again.

When air flow is applied to the terminals, a leak of 10 cm per minute is allowed, and the minimum pressure level in the system can drop to 1 bar.

Malfunctions and repairs

In some cases, repairs may be required; malfunctions may be caused by leaks in the brake system. The device stops automatically removing moisture and condensation. In this case, the O-ring and springs may need to be replaced.

Changes in temperature and humidity both indoors and outdoors create uncomfortable conditions for living in an apartment. The best way out of this situation is to install a dehumidifier. The industrial version is not cheap, so today we will talk about how to make a dehumidifier for an apartment with your own hands.

Why do you need a dehumidifier in your apartment?

The most unwanted and unexpected guests in our home are mold and mildew. Their spores are constantly hovering around, but most of the time they are in a state of hibernation, because they need certain conditions to activate:

• humidity;
• high room temperature.

A temperature above 20 degrees Celsius with a relative humidity of 80% is enough for you to see with the naked eye the growth of colonies of mold and fungi on the walls of rooms. Why, in this case, for example, does your neighbor not have similar troubles? The answer is simple: the air temperature in all apartments is most often the same, but the humidity can vary significantly.

Air dryers

In the fight against the effects of dampness, you can, of course, significantly lower the temperature in the apartment. But who wants to live in constant cold? In this regard, the best option is to install a dehumidifier.

Among other things, he will guard the health of the apartment residents. The body's immunity is directly dependent on the humidity of the surrounding air: the drier it is, the more difficult it is for harmful bacteria and microbes to multiply.

Dehumidification will also eliminate perspiration from the windows.

Operating principle

Modern dehumidifiers come in many models, which can differ significantly from each other. The first difference is the working volume, that is, the amount of water filtered from the air by the device. This parameter is measured in liters per day (24 hours).

To choose a device with the optimal volume, consider the size of the room in which it will be installed. Pay attention to the price of the equipment. The larger the volume of the dehumidifier, the more expensive it is, but such a device will require less maintenance.

Dehumidifiers can be portable or stationary. The first ones are mobile, you can use them in different rooms if necessary. Stationary ones are mounted on the wall, they cannot be carried, but they have greater productivity.

The operating principle of the dehumidifier is based on changes in humidity due to condensation. Air is drawn from the room using fans into the device. There it passes through an evaporator, which is a radiator whose temperature is lower than the air temperature in the room. Moisture condenses due to this temperature difference.

The simplest air dryer circuit

Drops of condensate flow down and are collected in a special container. After passing through the evaporator and cooling, the air is heated and supplied to the outlet, from where it goes back into the room already dry and warm.

Note! When using such a dehumidifier, you need to make sure that the building is equipped with quality system forced ventilation, which serves Fresh air into the room and selects mixed.

Scheme condensation dryer air

Such dehumidifiers are often used in the following cases:

• to prevent indoor windows from fogging up;
• to improve the comfort level of everyday life;
• during repair work.

Any Decoration Materials During repairs, using a dehumidifier will dry much faster. And the technology does not suffer at all: the temperature in the room remains the same.

Algorithm for creating a device with your own hands

Air dehumidification is achieved by three simple principles:

• heating;
• adsorption;
• condensation.

It would seem that heating is the easiest way to dry the air in a room. But in reality, no one likes to constantly be in an apartment that is too hot. Therefore, we will consider the following two options: adsorption and condensation of moisture. You can make dehumidifiers based on these principles yourself.

Desiccant type dehumidifier

Perhaps, simplest option, which does not require large financial and time expenditures.

1. Take 2 plastic bottles. The volume of each is at least 2 liters.

   You will need 2 liter plastic bottles

2. Perforate the bottom of the first bottle with a hot knitting needle or nail. Divide the container into two equal halves.
3. Place the second half in the lower, perforated part of the first bottle so that it is pointing neck down. Be sure to screw the cork onto the neck, making many holes in it with a hot awl.
4. Pour any absorbent into the upper part of the structure. The best option- silica gel with powerful absorbent properties. Which are easily restored after drying the used substance. For one desiccant you will need about 250 grams of silica gel.

   Use silica gel as filler

5. Cut off the bottom of the second bottle, attach a fan inside the container that will blow towards the cut bottom. To do this, you can use a USB fan or cooler to cool the computer processor. Place the pressure unit of the device 7–10 centimeters from the cut bottom.

   You can use a processor cooler as a fan in such a dehumidifier.

6. Place the second bottle on the container containing the adsorbent. Carefully wrap the joint with tape to seal it. Twist the cap off the neck of the second bottle - this will ensure air flow.

   Example of connecting parts of desiccant bottles

Thus, you will get a low-noise and fairly efficient device that can easily be powered from a USB connector or mobile phone charger. The fan creates an inflow force and forces air through the silica gel, and the dried flow comes out of the perforations at the bottom of the structure.

Condensation type dryer

This device is more complex than the previous one, but the basis of the necessary design is easy to find in every modern home. Roughly speaking, such a dehumidifier can be made, for example, from an old refrigerator.

Example of a refrigerator dehumidifier

1. Remove the door from the freezer and refrigerator compartments by disassembling the hinges. This is easy to do, since most models are equipped with removable doors.
2. By size removed doors measure the plexiglass plates at least 3 mm thick.
3. At a distance of 30–40 cm from the edge of the plate, cut a hole into which the fan will be mounted. Its dimensions must match the protective grille of the pressure unit.
4. Mount the fan and secure its grille with self-tapping screws. The device should work as a supply pressure unit, blowing a flow of air into the refrigerator.
5. Drill a series of holes in the top of the plexiglass plate. Their total area should be equal to the area of ​​the fan opening.
6. Put in order the standard system for removing condensate from the housing or modify it. To do this, connect the external pipe above the compressor to the storage tank with a polymer hose.
7. Secure the plexiglass with self-tapping screws in the place where the refrigerator door should be. To seal joints and insulate them, use self-adhesive tape or silicone.

Now all you have to do is turn on the refrigerator, first turning on the fan. A little time will pass, and the humidity in the room will decrease by 8–10%. If this homemade dehumidifier works for a long time, then in addition to humidity, the temperature in the room will also decrease.

Video: how to make a dehumidifier with your own hands

Humidity control

How to solve the problem with humidity control? Factory dehumidifiers are equipped with built-in sensors to control air temperature and humidity. What about homemade device? You can use a thermometer, but it is not necessary and will not tell you anything about the humidity level.

Use a hygrometer. It can be arrow or digital. You can buy it in many specialty stores. In addition, such a device is often included in the design of some modern models hours.

A hygrometer will help you control indoor air humidity

When using a homemade dehumidifier, do not forget that too dry air can be harmful. After all, in addition to pathogenic organisms, there are also beneficial bacteria around us that also need moisture. A hygrometer will help you determine if you need to use a dehumidifier. If the humidity in the apartment has reached a critical 80%, at which mold and fungi begin to actively multiply, feel free to turn on the device. Pay attention to weather

: In some cases it may be necessary to use a humidifier rather than a dehumidifier.