There are two ways to propagate juniper - seeds and cuttings. It is not advisable to propagate ornamental varieties by seeds, since in most cases they lose their maternal characteristics. So it is more preferable to propagate juniper by cuttings.

Propagation of juniper by cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year, but more favorable time– summer and autumn.

It all starts with preparing the cuttings. To do this, you need to separate cuttings 10-15 cm long from the mother plant. They simply need to be torn off along with a piece of wood, the so-called heel at the tip. Clear the stem of the cutting from the needles and a couple of centimeters from the edge and place them for a day in a solution of Kornevin or any other growth stimulant.

Propagating juniper by cuttings in a jar of water is not advisable, since the delicate bark of this plant can peel off from moisture and, as a result, the productivity of the harvest will decrease. We don’t need this at all, and we will immediately root the plant in pots or boxes with sand. The dishes must have drainage holes.

We will need clean river sand without any additives. The only thing is that it needs to be disinfected in boiling water. Place the cooled sand in containers and treat it with a 3% manganese solution. Now we are not afraid of pests and bacteria.

We deepen our cuttings by 1 cm, squeeze them, compact sand around them. We put the boxes in the shade and provide them with a temperature of +17-23°C. In the summer-autumn period it is will not be difficult, since you will not need to build a greenhouse. Simply cover the boxes with gauze.

One of the secrets, one might say the main one, when propagating juniper is maintaining temperature and humidity conditions. Then rooting will happen much more successfully and quickly.

At first, for about 2 months, you need to spray the cuttings with water every day with a garden sprayer, while trying not to over-wet the sand.

When the cuttings have roots, you can plant them in open ground or in larger pots for growing.

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How to root juniper using cuttings

Juniper is a plant that remains green throughout the year. It belongs to the Cypress family. Due to the variety of colors, shapes, decorativeness and originality, this plant is one of the most popular among gardeners. Accordingly, the issue of juniper propagation is very relevant, so this article will be devoted to this topic.

Juniper is considered to be a representative perennial plants. This bush loves warmth and sunlight, tolerates dry periods well and does not tolerate excessive humidity. With the help of juniper they strengthen slopes, create hedges, borders, and are used in landscape design.

Juniper count unique plant due to some of its features.

In nature, this bush reproduces quite difficultly using seeds. In this article, we will not argue that propagating juniper from seeds is quite simple, since this is incorrect. Growing this plant from seeds is quite problematic and requires a lot of time and effort. Even if a positive result is obtained, guarantee quality planting material it is forbidden. The thing is that bush seedlings grow very slowly, and the first fruiting will be possible only 10 years after planting.

An alternative to sowing juniper was cuttings. This work can be easily done at home with your own hands, and it will take up to three months.

Seedlings that are obtained as a result of cuttings have a stronger root system, due to which they take root faster and can give better growth.

Juniper is propagated throughout the year, it depends on what period of time you need to transfer the plant to the ground.

1. If the plant is planted in the spring, cuttings should be prepared before mid-February.
2. If planting is planned in the fall, then cuttings are performed in mid-summer.

These requirements are justified by the fact that the rooting process of juniper is quite difficult. Like other representatives of conifers (spruce, thuja, etc.), juniper takes a long time to form root system. The first root, which will be viable, is formed no earlier than on the 25th day, and complete rooting occurs, at best, 2 months after planting the cuttings in a special substrate.

One of important nuances in reproduction is mandatory compliance correct size cuttings It should be denser and more voluminous, unlike others garden crops. For this reason, its length is about 25 cm. The correct slope must also be observed. This is due to the species of juniper. Upright bushes are planted and germinated vertically, and varieties that creep along the ground or climb - at an angle of 40-45 degrees.

How to root juniper with cuttings is a rather complicated question, but properly preparing it for planting is also very important.

To choose the right cutting for planting, which can replicate all the characteristics as much as possible mother plant, you should follow a number of simple rules:

1. The future cuttings are cut from the middle or from the top of the crown (the sprouts must be alive and green).
2. If you want a spreading bush to show off on your site, then the cuttings should be taken from the side branches.
3. You need to cut the cutting with the part of the branch on which it is formed (this promotes rapid rooting).

To ensure that the cutting takes root, it will be necessary to keep it in a solution of a growth stimulator for some time. There are many such drugs, but they have their own nuances. For example, rooting a cutting in a liquid with a root former is impossible due to the fact that the juniper bark peels off in water, which affects the productivity of the sprout. The best alternative liquid product - powder or paste. The cut must be treated with any of them, and you can also add the drug to the soil in which the plant will be planted.

Planting juniper bushes requires specially prepared soil. It should be:

To achieve all the characteristics mentioned above, you need to mix peat and sand in equal parts. There is no need to add ash and lime. Such soil will dry out quickly, but in order for the cuttings to take root and take root, the ground is covered plastic film in order to create a greenhouse effect.

The procedure for planting sprouts is quite simple. It is necessary to make small holes on the surface of the soil, the diameter of which will not exceed 1 cm, and the depth - 3 cm. The gap between them should be about 8 cm. The sprouts should be planted carefully so as not to damage the cut, since they take root quite difficult.

After planting, the soil should be compacted and the surface moistened. There is no need to use a spray bottle, since when sprayed, water can get on the branches of the plant.

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Propagation of juniper by cuttings at home

Juniper is a coniferous plant. Usually it is grown in plots at the dacha or in the garden, sometimes in the vegetable garden, more often on the street if we are talking about the city, for example, but juniper is rarely grown at home. Of course, this can be done at home if you plan to eventually transplant this coniferous plant somewhere, because it will, albeit slowly, still grow, which means it will take up more and more space. more space in your house. You must be prepared for this in advance before you start propagating juniper at home. Its growth can still be restrained or kept at a specific level thanks to planned pruning of the plant, and you can also come up with a whole composition of several juniper trees, constantly propagating them and planting them in different pots.

Preparing soil for planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper is unpretentious and takes root well on thin soils. But most of its species prefer light soil with good drainage. For each seedling, prepare a hole approximately 2 times larger than the rhizome of the seedling, along with the soil covering it. The larger and taller the type of juniper, the greater the distance the trees are planted. For small species, the distance may be slightly less than one meter, and for larger ones, 1.5 m - 2.5 m. At the bottom of the hole, a drainage layer is made of small stones or broken bricks, covered with sand. The thickness of the drainage layer is approximately 15-20 cm. The mixture is poured over the drainage turf land, sand and peat in a ratio of approximately 2:1:1. You can add a little compost to the planting holes and add 30 grams. nitroammofoski. Common, Central Asian or Cossack juniper requires an alkaline soil reaction. In preparation

The earth mixture for these types needs to reduce the amount of sand and peat, and add a little slaked lime or 200-300 grams of dolomite flour. Juniper virginiana prefers clay soil, which is mixed with a small amount of sand.

Cuttings are harvested in cloudy weather, because Sun rays can have a negative result on both planting material and adult juniper. For cuttings, the tops of semi-lignified shoots are used, since they are considered better formed for continued growth. The shoots are freed from interfering needles and twigs, to a height of approximately 3-4 cm from the heel - it is in this place of the shoot that a new root system will form.

Sometimes you may hear recommendations to soak cuttings before planting in a special root stimulator. However, this should not be done, because the juniper bark is very delicate and in water it can simply peel off, which will lead to a decrease in the overall productivity of your preparations.

Planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper should be planted in the fall and in winter months. However knowledgeable people It is recommended to plant plants from mid-September to the last ten days of November. During this period, the stomata of plants close due to the increased degree of air humidity, as a result, practically no evaporation of water occurs, which has an impact on beneficial influence on the condition of the tree and the reproduction process. In spring and summer, it is strictly not recommended to plant juniper. This is due to damage to the root system, which is caused by increased evaporation and physiological drought observed in coniferous plants in the warm season. However, the question about optimal timing Planting juniper trees is quite controversial. Many gardeners claim that the time from the first days of April to the end of May is ideal for organizing the propagation of juniper by cuttings, since this period is the peak of its growth and development in the fall.

When determining the timing of planting, you should also pay attention to climatic conditions. In order for the rooting of juniper cuttings to be successful, the air temperature should be from +5 to +25 degrees. Higher or low level heat can have an adverse effect on the plant’s reproduction process and lead to its death.

Some types of juniper require additional fertilizer, so for Virginia juniper you can add half a bucket of compost. For Cossack juniper It would be nice to add 0.3 kg of dolomite flour. All these procedures are carried out in advance, since after 2 weeks the soil in the hole will have time to compact and the seedling will be able to fit there.

After planting, the root collar of the plant should be 7-10 cm above ground level, again, due to the fact that the earth will still settle. After which the bush is watered, and when the water is completely absorbed, it is worth mulching the area around the trunk, this will protect the soil from drying out.

Watering juniper

During the period of active growth, it will be sufficient to water the plant only during periods of extreme heat or prolonged absence of rain. One adult bush requires 10-15 liters of water.

It will be an additional advantage if daily spraying is carried out in the evening after a stuffy day. The plant will thank you for this bright colors needles

Pruning is carried out when there is a desire to give the juniper an unusual shape. You can also prune if dry branches or deformed areas appear on the plant.

If you are interested in creeping types of juniper, use propagation by layering. Young branches can be cut throughout the growing season; their rooting occurs faster than the rooting of woody shoots.
Layers are dug in and pinned near the old bush. The day before, river sand and peat are brought into the planting site and it is dug up so that the soil is light and loose. The cuttings are lightly hilled up and watered regularly, but they should not be flooded; excess moisture can cause root rot of the old bush and the death of the cutting from soaking.

After six months or a year, when the cuttings have taken root, they can be transplanted to the place where you plan to grow a new bush.

Propagation of juniper by layering is most often used in relation to creeping forms culture. The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season.

The procedure for this is as follows:

• The soil around the mother bush is intensively loosened, peat and river sand are added and watered abundantly.
• The lower part (20-25 cm) of healthy, recently ripened shoots, which are best suited for propagation, is cleared of needles.
• The bare area is pressed to the soil surface and secured with a wire pin.
• The part of the shoot in contact with the soil is sprinkled with peat-sand substrate.

Rooting of the cuttings will take about 6-8 months. During this time, it should be regularly watered and covered with moist soil. With the appearance of young growth on the layer, the shoot can be separated from mother bush and planted as an independent plant.

Juniper aphids appear on young shoots. Aphids, when multiplying en masse, can cause harm to young plants, since by sucking out the sap, they greatly inhibit and weaken the plant, retard growth, and cause curvature and twisting of damaged shoots.

On young cones and needles you can see the rounded scutes of females and elongated scutes of males (up to 1-1.5 mm) of the juniper scale insect. In early June, larvae appear and attach themselves to the needles. The needles dry out and fall off, and young plants may die. By sucking sap from bark tissue, the larvae cause damage, leading to the death of the bark, drying out and bending of shoots, and a decrease in annual growth. It affects juniper, thuja, yew, and cypress.

Small mosquitoes, no more than 2.2 mm, fly near plants, then their larvae appear - spindle-shaped and covered with warts, up to 4 mm long, bright yellow, orange, or red. These are gall midges on juniper. The larvae secrete specific growth substances onto the needles, under the influence of which the plant cells begin to rapidly grow and divide, turning into galls. The larvae live and overwinter in them.

The needles are entangled in a thin, sparse web, covered with yellowish spots, later turning brown and crumbling. Spruce spider mite and its larvae damage young plants: juniper, biota, prickly spruce, Canadian spruce, common spruce, and western thuja. Over the summer, the female gives 3–4 generations. The mite causes the greatest damage in hot years to trees growing on dry soils. Behind growing season Ticks form four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases towards the end of summer.

Planting Cossack juniper, growing and caring for it

Cossack juniper is propagated by seeds, vegetative way(layers and cuttings) less often - grafting. When planting, you should not forget that plants of this species, unlike common, Chinese, Virginia and Chinese junipers, are characterized by rapid, intensive growth.

Branches lying on the surface of the soil take root firmly and in a short time dense, dense thickets are formed. Therefore, when planting Cossack juniper, it is important to maintain the required distance between plants - from 1 to 2 m. Shrubs tolerate shearing and pruning, so if necessary, you can control their lush growth and give them an unusual shape.

Before propagating Cossack juniper by seed, you need to prepare boxes for stratification (long-term keeping of seeds at a certain temperature to accelerate their germination). Cone berries formed on female specimens ripen in August-October. As soon as the green fruits turn purple-black and a bluish waxy coating appears on them, you can begin to collect. Each cone berry contains 1-2 seeds. To increase germination, the seeds must be separated from the shells, placed in an acid solution for 30 minutes, and then washed. With the onset of cold weather, Cossack juniper seeds are sown in boxes with soil and buried under the snow, where they are stored all winter. In spring, overwintered (stratified) seeds can be sown in open ground. If you decide to resort to growing Cossack juniper with seeds without stratification, then you should remember that the first shoots will appear only next year.

Basically, juniper plants reproduce in the wild by seed. To propagate cultivars, it is best to resort to cuttings or rooting layering.

Reproduction: cuttings of Cossack juniper

Cuttings of Cossack juniper are recommended to be carried out in April, while the plant is in a state of relative dormancy, or in August, when Bottom part the current year's growth becomes lignified. It is best to wait for cloudy weather, since bright sun in the first days can have a detrimental effect on both the cuttings themselves and the adult plants from which the planting material was taken.

The best cuttings are obtained from the tips of the shoots. To cut planting material from narrow-pyramidal and columnar-shaped junipers, you need to take only straight, vertical shoots. If you decide to carry out cuttings of creeping forms, only horizontal shoots are pruned. In plants rounded shapes You can cut any cuttings. It must be remembered that cuttings of planting material cannot remain long time without moisture, so when transferring from one area to another, you need to place them in water-moistened plastic bag. Cuttings are always taken exclusively “with a heel” (a piece of old bark and wood). A branched growth that reaches at least 10 cm and no more than 30 cm in length is separated from the mother specimen. "Heels" are treated sharp knife, leaving 0.5-1 cm on each cutting old wood. Remember that the bark must remain on each cutting, otherwise rooting will not occur. All branches located at the bottom of the cutting should be removed.

Before planting Cossack juniper, you should equip the greenhouse with a fogging unit. The duration of root formation is 50-90 days, rooting of cuttings occurs in 85-95% of cases. To increase the yield of rooted stems, it is recommended to treat the cuttings with a solution of indolylbutyric acid before planting. Cossack juniper is planted in a 10-centimeter substrate consisting of coarse river sand and acidic peat in a ratio of 3:1. You can add vermiculite or perlite to the bottom of the planting hole. It is desirable that the greenhouse maintains high humidity and a temperature of +23 to 26°C.

Reproduction of rooted cuttings of Cossack juniper continues in the nursery for 1-3 years. The period for growing planting material depends on the cultivation of the soil, the degree of development of the root system and care. The larger the cuttings, the better their roots develop, therefore, the growing period in the nursery is reduced. To strengthen the root system, root formation stimulants are used. When transplanting Cossack juniper into a nursery, a substrate is prepared consisting of black soil, pine sawdust and river sand (in equal parts). A drainage layer up to 15 cm high is placed at the bottom of the planting hole. Plant cuttings are deepened into the soil by 5-7 cm, watered and sprayed abundantly. Rooting in the nursery lasts up to 2.5 months. During the entire period, Cossack juniper requires careful care: young trees need to be watered daily and sprayed several times a day. In sunny weather, the cuttings are shaded; in cloudy weather, the shading is removed. At the end of autumn, when temperatures reach zero, the soil must be mulched with a 5-centimeter layer of sawdust. With age, the winter hardiness of plants increases; they can tolerate cold temperatures without mulching.

Reproduction of Cossack juniper by layering and grafting

During the entire growing season, Cossack juniper can be propagated by layering. This mainly applies to creeping forms. To do this, the branches of the plant are bent to the ground and pinned with wooden pins, the soil around them is hilled up and periodically watered. It is best to use young shoots, since perennial, lignified branches take root reluctantly.

Before propagating Cossack juniper by layering, you should prepare the soil around the shoot: dig it up, loosen it, mix in a little damp sphagnum peat and coarse garden sand. Adding shell fibers to the soil is very effective. coconut. At a distance of 30 cm from the end of the shoot, you need to tear off all the needles, leaving only a bare stem. To increase the speed of rooting, you can make an oblique cut up to 5 cm long to a depth of the middle of the stem and sprinkle it with a special powder that stimulates root formation. The treated part of the stem is bent to the ground and strengthened, leaving the cut open.

Within 6-12 months, the cuttings take root, vertical shoots appear on them, which can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted into open ground.

Particularly valuable cultivars are propagated by grafting. This method is rarely used when propagating Cossack junipers, since the survival rate is very low. Typically, the desired variety is grafted onto common juniper, and the grafting site is wrapped with plastic film. With the onset of the warm season, the film can be replaced with burlap. For successful grafting, close contact between the rootstock and scion is necessary, so it is important to ensure that the tissues of both plants are in good condition(no cracks, breaks or signs of disease).

When transplanting Cossack juniper, it is important not to damage the tap root system. Therefore, you need to dig up the seedlings as deeply as possible, trying to preserve a powerful earthen lump. In their natural environment, plants of this species live for more than a hundred years. Life expectancy of cultivars at proper care and compliance with the necessary conditions of detention is about 30 years.

Caring for Cossack junipers

Planting and caring for Cossack juniper is not very difficult. It is important not to forget to water the plants during dry periods, spray the crown with water, protect them from direct sunlight, feed young plants during the growing season, and cover them with the onset of cold weather.

The optimal soil acidity for this species is from 4.5 to 7 pH; depending on the variety, it is useful to carry out liming before planting (mix dolomite flour or lime to the soil). Cossack juniper does not tolerate excess fertilizer - it is enough to add nitroammophoska in the spring at the rate of 30-40 g per square meter. After watering or weeding, the soil should be loosened shallowly and mulched with peat, sawdust or wood chips to a depth of 5-8 cm.

Cossack juniper is quite frost-resistant, so for the winter it is enough to cover it with lutrasil (non-woven synthetic material made of polypropylene fiber). Moreover, covering is necessary only for young trees; adult plants overwinter without additional protection. The greatest concern of gardeners is the creeping forms, since in winter they are completely covered with snow, which practically does not allow light to pass through. However, experts are quick to reassure: during the winter months, plants are dormant, their growth is practically suspended, and accordingly, there is no need to replenish supplies nutrients due to photosynthesis.

Pruning Cossack juniper

Pruning of Cossack juniper should be done very carefully, basically just removing diseased, damaged or dry branches using pruning shears or garden shears. The crown should be formed as needed, mainly in dense creeping varieties. Formative pruning is carried out no more than twice a year (spring and autumn) with average daily temperature air not lower than +4°C. Basically, pruning is used if there is a need to direct the growth of branches in a certain direction, limit the size of growth, or make it more decorative. The annual growth of these plants is about 10 cm; no more than 20% of the new growth is pruned. Wounds when pruning juniper are not covered, in rare cases, when severe damage You can treat the cut ends of the branches with resin or spray them with epin (an adaptive regulator with a strong anti-stress effect).

When forming a crown, it is safest to resort to plucking out the tips of new shoots. This will enhance branching, add lushness to the bush and will not cause as much damage as when pruning. If a branch does not want to grow on its own in a given direction, it can be turned in the desired direction using a rope or soft wire.

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Juniper is a representative of the cypress genus and decorates many gardens and parks. It adapts well to any conditions, its fragrant, soft needles have different colors and look attractive. This article will talk about in different ways propagation of this beautiful plant.

Reproduction methods

Once you let this wonderful plant into your garden, you will definitely want to propagate it. There are several ways to do this:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering;
• vaccination.

Most often, 2 of them are used - seeds and cuttings. The easiest way to propagate is common juniper; it grows equally well from seeds and cuttings.

Seeds

Juniper seedlings are not cheap, and if you need a lot of them, it becomes quite expensive. Try the most cheap way propagation - propagate juniper by seeds. It's not easy, but it can be done. Having decided on such an experiment, we take the following steps:

1. We prepare seeds. To do this, you need to find a fruit-bearing bush and pick a black-blue cone from it.

   Juniper: planting and care, propagation and types

   Be careful, there may also be green cones with unripe seeds on the bush.

2. Soak the cone in water, and then grind, rinse and extract the seeds. Their shell is very dense, so before planting, it is necessary to destroy it. For this purpose, the seeds are placed for 0.5 hours in hydrochloric acid and then washed.

   They cope with this task in another way - by scarification, i.e. destruction of hard skin mechanically. For example, you can rub the grains between two plates sandpaper. If you do not carry out this procedure, you will see seedlings only in a year.

3. We plant the seeds in a box of soil in the fall, around October. The embedment depth is small - 2-3 centimeters.
4. We carry out natural stratification: we take the container out into the yard, where it will remain throughout the winter.
5. We plant the seeds in the garden in May. We mulch it, for the first week or two we protect weak shoots from sunlight, weed out weeds.
6. We plant grown seedlings on permanent place in 2, or even 3 years.

Cuttings

The method of propagating juniper by cuttings gives highest result. The best time to harvest them is spring, although, in general, you can do this at any time. Experienced gardeners recommend:

Other methods of reproduction

Some gardeners propagate this evergreen plant by layering and even by grafting. Creeping juniper is propagated by layering. Young branches that have just gained strength take root in this way.

The technology is as follows:

• loosen the soil around the bush;
• add peat and sand, water;
• we clean the branches intended for rooting, retreating 100-200 mm from the base;
• press the part that has been cleaned onto the ground and fix the branch using special pins;
• we take care of the shoot, periodically watering it and hilling it.

The cuttings will take root within a year at most. Then we will disconnect it and transplant it to the right place.

Gardeners sometimes try to propagate rare varieties of juniper by grafting them onto common juniper, but this is not always possible. The procedure itself begins when sap flow appears and it looks like this:

• cut off the shoot;
• press tightly to the rootstock;
• we tie the joining place with plastic tape;
• cover the bush from the sun.

A sign of a successful operation is the appearance of blossoming buds after 1.5 months.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in propagating juniper. You just need to patiently, diligently and consistently follow the recommendations.

Propagation of juniper by cuttings

There are two ways to propagate juniper - seeds and cuttings. It is not advisable to propagate ornamental varieties by seeds, since in most cases they lose their maternal characteristics.

How to root juniper: selection of planting material and propagation

So it is more preferable to propagate juniper by cuttings.

Propagation of juniper by cuttings at home

Propagation of juniper by cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year, but more favorable times are summer and autumn.

It all starts with preparing the cuttings. To do this, you need to separate cuttings 10-15 cm long from the mother plant. They simply need to be torn off along with a piece of wood, the so-called heel at the tip. Clear the stem of the cutting from the needles and a couple of centimeters from the edge and place them for a day in a solution of Kornevin or any other growth stimulant.

Propagating juniper by cuttings in a jar of water is not advisable, since the delicate bark of this plant can peel off from moisture and, as a result, the productivity of the harvest will decrease. We don’t need this at all, and we will immediately root the plant in pots or boxes with sand. The dishes must have drainage holes.

We will need clean river sand without any additives. The only thing is that it needs to be disinfected in boiling water. Place the cooled sand in containers and treat it with a 3% manganese solution. Now we are not afraid of pests and bacteria.

We deepen our cuttings by 1 cm, squeeze them, compact sand around them. We put the boxes in the shade and provide them with a temperature of +17-23°C. In the summer-autumn period it is will not be difficult, since you will not need to build a greenhouse. Simply cover the boxes with gauze.

One of the secrets, one might say the main one, when propagating juniper is maintaining temperature and humidity conditions. Then rooting will happen much more successfully and quickly.

At first, for about 2 months, you need to spray the cuttings with water every day with a garden sprayer, while trying not to over-wet the sand.

When the cuttings have roots, you can plant them in open ground or in larger pots for growing.

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Juniper bushes are often used as an element of landscape design. This crop looks great throughout the year. In addition, this crop is used as a medicinal plant.

Planting dates, location and site preparation for planting juniper

It is customary to plant this plant at the beginning of spring; it is not necessary to wait until warm weather. After the snow melts, you can already plant it.

Occasionally, planting is done later, but in this case the needles can be burned by the rays of the sun.

It is not advisable to plant juniper in the fall; the root system will not be able to take root before the cold weather. But if you purchased a seedling in a pot, then you can plant it at any time, you just need to protect it during the day from direct sunlight and provide good care.

Juniper grows well in an open area where it is well lit by the sun. Often the amount of light directly depends on it decorative qualities(crown density and splendor).

The soil on the site for the plant must be prepared taking into account the type of juniper purchased. For example, common juniper grows better on alkaline soil; it is also suitable for the Central Asian and Cossack varieties.

On acidic soil These junipers need liming. Other species of this plant prefer acidic soil (the soil can be acidified by adding a mixture of sand, wood shavings and peat in a 1:1:1 ratio).

Siberian juniper, planting and caring for it is best done in a light sandy soil, for the Virginia variety, clay with the addition of good compost is better suited.

Propagation of juniper by cuttings in spring

Don't forget to create a good drainage layer for the plant. It is made from crushed stone, brick fragments, coarse sand or pebbles, 20-25 cm thick.

Choosing a juniper seedling

It is best to plant plants purchased in 5 liter containers. They are easier to replant and quickly take root in a new location.

The best option for planting in open ground are plants purchased in containers with a capacity of up to 5 liters. Such specimens are easier to replant, and they take root faster.

You can use adult plants instead of young plants; they are dug up along with a lump of earth and the root system is covered with film or burlap.

It is not advisable to replant very large specimens. They have a long taproot, which cannot be removed from the ground without damage.

Damage to juniper roots can lead to the death of the bush. Before transplanting, the earthen lump needs to be soaked in water for 2 hours.

Juniper propagation methods

Obtaining a seedling from seeds

Basically, all varieties of juniper are propagated using cuttings, but individual species This crop can be sown by seeds.

Seed material is obtained from plants older than two years. The seeds are collected after the berries on the bushes begin to darken. But they have not yet begun to completely change their color.

After this, the embryos in the seeds go dormant, and their germination will require a lot of time and effort.

Before sowing, the grains are stratified; for this they are placed in a box filled with a mixture of moss, coarse sand and peat. It is taken outside and left for the winter. In May, juniper seeds are removed from the substrate and planted in open ground.

Juniper cuttings

Propagating this plant by cuttings is more effective than sowing seeds. For this purpose in spring period choose a healthy and strong plant, from which last year’s shoot is cut along with part of the parent plant. The size of the cutting is 10 cm; the needles are removed from it and soaked in a growth stimulator for a day. Occasionally the film is opened and the cuttings are allowed to “breathe”. It is necessary to constantly monitor the humidity of the substrate, not allowing it to dry out. After 1-2 months, roots form on the cuttings, and then they can be planted in a permanent place.

Juniper, planting and caring for the plant, sequence of work

1. First of all, at the place where the plant will be planted, dig a hole into which the root system of the plant will fit. A hole 0.5 m deep is suitable for young seedlings. The dimensions of the planting hole should be 2-3 times larger than the earthen ball of the plant;

2. A layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom; its thickness should be 20-25 cm;

3. The voids are filled with garden soil;

4. When planting, the root is carefully straightened, without leaving bent roots and without injuring it. The root collar is placed at ground level; in adult plants, the collar should be 7-12 cm above the soil surface;

5. Having filled the hole and compacted the soil, water the planted seedling well;

6. After planting, the plant is mulched; rotted cones are suitable for this, pine bark, old sawdust or peat, sawdust. The mulch layer should be 10 cm thick.

Between small plants the distance should be approximately 50 cm, between large bushes it is necessary to leave free space 1.5-2 m.

Juniper care

The majority of juniper varieties tolerate drought well and can be left without watering for long periods, but in extreme heat it is still necessary to water the plants at least once a month. Good for juniper and spraying from a spray bottle, this must be done in the morning once a week.

In the spring, plants are fed with nitroammophos, and 45 g of fertilizer is applied per 1 m². In warm weather, the bushes can be fed with organic or mineral compounds, but this feeding should not be done more than once a month.

Juniper has a negative attitude towards transplants, for this reason this can only be done as a last resort. Adult plants take root in a new place with great difficulty and often die after transplantation. But if you need to replant the bush, choose comfortable spot and prepare nutritious soil.

Junipers do not need regular pruning. But old, heavily overgrown juniper needs to be renewed by cutting off diseased, broken branches and dry shoots. Thanks to pruning, it is easy to give the plant a beautiful shape, just keep in mind that it is not recommended to cut many branches at once, otherwise the bush may get sick.

On winter period young plants must be covered so that they are not damaged low temperatures. There is no need to hide adult plants under cover; they just tie the branches together with a rope so that they do not break off during heavy snowfall.

IN spring time Most varieties of juniper get burned from aggressive sunlight. In spring, the sun can literally burn the crowns, sometimes this will not only worsen them appearance, but can also destroy individual bushes.

Even if such a plant survives and recovers, its needles will turn brown or yellow.

For this reason, in February-March, plant branches must be covered with some opaque material (for example, you can use burlap for this). After the snow has melted, the cover is removed, the soil near the plant is cleared of last year’s mulch and other debris, loosened, allowed to air a little and mulched again.

Juniper – bright representative evergreen plants belonging to the cypress family. Its decorative effect, variety of shapes, abundance of colors, and unpretentiousness have made it a favorite plant of many amateur gardeners. Therefore, the issue of juniper propagation is very relevant.

Propagation of juniper by cuttings

Cuttings are in a universal way propagation of all varietal forms of juniper. If provided optimal conditions For rooting, plant cuttings can be done throughout the year. However best time It is considered spring. Main stages of reproduction:

• In this case, the roots will appear before the end of summer, and young plant can easily overwinter in open ground. It is also a good idea to cut off planting material in July-August, when the young shoots have time to ripen and become woody. However, in in this case cuttings do not have time to form roots before winter, so they can only overwinter indoors or under good cover.

• It is better to take cuttings in cloudy weather, since the sun's rays can have a negative effect on both the planting material itself and the adult juniper from which it was cut.

• For cuttings, it is better to use the tops of semi-lignified shoots. Depending on the juniper variety, there are some peculiarities in collecting planting material. So, in columnar and pyramidal varieties, only vertical, upward-directed shoots should be cut for cuttings. For creeping varieties, the best planting material will be any shoots, but not vertical ones. If you need to propagate juniper with a spherical or bush-shaped crown, then you can cut off any shoots.

Preparing shoots

• The shoots should be cut with a sharp knife along with the “heel”. Heel - A piece of older bark and wood formed where the shoot attaches to the main branch. Cut shoots must be freed from twigs and needles to a height of 3-4 cm from the “heel”. It is on this section of the stem that the root system will form. It is important to remember that cut shoots cannot be stored. If it is not possible to plant them immediately after cutting, you can keep them in a container with water for 1-3 hours or wrap them in damp burlap and place them in the refrigerator.

• Some gardeners recommend soaking prepared cuttings in root formation stimulants before planting. However, this should not be done, since juniper has very delicate bark. In water, it can peel off, which will lead to a decrease in the overall productivity of the workpiece. It is more advisable to plant the planting material in the substrate and then water the soil, for example, with sodium humate or heteroauxin. This will significantly speed up the formation of roots.

The substrate in which the cuttings will take root must be loose and permeable. A mixture of coarse river sand and peat, combined in equal proportions, works well. It must be remembered that juniper grows better in acidic soils. Therefore, you should not add deoxidizing additives to the rooting substrate ( eggshells, ash, etc.).

This article has helped many gardeners stop working hard on their plots and still get a bountiful harvest.

I would never have thought that in order to get best harvest on his own personal plot For my entire “dacha career”, all I need is to stop toiling away in the garden beds and trust nature. For as long as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First at my parents' house, and then my husband and I bought our own. WITH early spring and until late autumn everything free time spent on planting, weeding, gartering, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, conservation and attempts to preserve the harvest until next year. And so in a circle...

Juniper in the photo

It is better to plant cuttings in wooden boxes filled with substrate, it is important not to forget about drainage holes and drainage. The cuttings should be immersed in the soil to a depth of 3 cm at an angle of 60 degrees.

Juniper care

Place the boxes with the planted cuttings in a dry, warm greenhouse. It must maintain optimal climatic conditions:

• high air humidity,
• diffused light,
• air temperature before buds open – 16-19 C,
• after bud break – 23-26°C.

Direct sunlight is harmful to juniper shoots, so if the greenhouse is in the sun all day, it is necessary to apply shading. Caring for cuttings during rooting involves regular watering and spraying. In order to maintain the required humidity in the greenhouse, plants should be sprayed at least 5-6 times a day. The soil should be watered as it dries, but in no case should it be too wet, since juniper does not like excess water.

The first roots on the cuttings appear 50-90 days after planting. There is no need to rush to replant the seedlings, as the first roots are very thin and can easily be damaged during replanting. It is advisable to leave the seedlings in the greenhouse for another year so that the root system grows and becomes stronger. If this is not possible, then the seedlings should be transplanted very carefully. When taking them out, they must be taken together with the earthen lump and moved with it to planting pits in a permanent place of growth.

Reproduction of juniper by layering

This method can be used to propagate creeping forms of juniper. This can be done throughout the growing season. For propagation by layering, it is advisable to use young, newly matured branches. Lignified shoots take a long time to take root and do not take root well.

Immediately before propagation by layering, it is necessary to prepare the soil around the plant. To do this, it should be dug up, loosened, fertilized with acidic peat and river sand and moisturize. The branches selected for propagation should be cleared of needles at a distance of 10-20 cm from the base of the shoot. Press the cleaned part to the ground and secure with special pins. Periodically, the pinned shoot should be hilled up and watered.

Juniper cuttings take root within 6-12 months. Young shoots form on them, which are then detached and transplanted to a permanent place of growth.

Propagation of juniper by grafting

Especially valuable varieties of juniper are propagated in this way. As a rule, the selected valuable variety is grafted onto common juniper. To do this, the cut shoot (scion) is pressed tightly against the rootstock, and the junction is tied with a tape made of transparent plastic film.

This method of propagation is not widespread among gardeners, since the survival rate of the scion in this case is low.

Juniper care on video

Juniper is a coniferous plant. Usually it is grown in plots at the dacha or in the garden, sometimes in the vegetable garden, more often on the street if we are talking about the city, for example, but juniper is rarely grown at home. Of course, this can be done at home if you plan to eventually transplant this coniferous plant somewhere, because it will, albeit slowly, still grow, which means it will take up more and more space in your house. You must be prepared for this in advance before you start propagating juniper at home. Its growth can still be restrained or kept at a specific level thanks to planned pruning of the plant, and you can also come up with a whole composition of several juniper trees, constantly propagating them and planting them in different pots.

Preparing soil for planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper is unpretentious and takes root well on thin soils. But most of its species prefer light soil with good drainage. For each seedling, prepare a hole approximately 2 times larger than the rhizome of the seedling, along with the soil covering it. The larger and taller the type of juniper, the greater the distance the trees are planted. For small species, the distance may be slightly less than one meter, and for larger ones, 1.5 m - 2.5 m. At the bottom of the hole, a drainage layer is made of small stones or broken bricks, covered with sand. The thickness of the drainage layer is approximately 15-20 cm. A mixture of turf soil, sand and peat in a ratio of approximately 2:1:1 is poured over the drainage. You can add a little compost to the planting holes and add 30 grams. nitroammofoski. Common, Central Asian or Cossack juniper requires an alkaline soil reaction. In preparation

The earth mixture for these types needs to reduce the amount of sand and peat, and add a little slaked lime or 200-300 grams of dolomite flour. Juniper Virginia prefers clay soil, which is mixed with a small amount of sand.

Preparation of juniper cuttings for planting

The preparation of cuttings is carried out in cloudy weather, because the sun's rays can have a negative effect on both planting material and adult juniper. For cuttings, the tops of semi-lignified shoots are used, since they are considered better formed for continued growth. The shoots are freed from interfering needles and twigs, to a height of approximately 3-4 cm from the heel - it is in this place of the shoot that a new root system will form.

Sometimes you may hear recommendations to soak cuttings before planting in a special root stimulator. However, this should not be done, because the juniper bark is very delicate and in water it can simply peel off, which will lead to a decrease in the overall productivity of your preparations.

Planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper should be planted in the fall and winter months. However, knowledgeable people recommend planting plants from mid-September to the last ten days of November. During this period, the stomata of plants close due to the increased degree of air humidity, as a result, practically no evaporation of water occurs, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the tree and the reproduction process. In spring and summer, it is strictly not recommended to plant juniper. This is due to damage to the root system, which is caused by increased evaporation and physiological drought observed in coniferous plants in the warm season. However, the question of the optimal timing of planting juniper trees is quite controversial. Many gardeners claim that the time from the first days of April to the end of May is ideal for organizing the propagation of juniper by cuttings, since this period is the peak of its growth and development in the fall.

When determining planting dates, you should also pay attention to climatic conditions. In order for the rooting of juniper cuttings to be successful, the air temperature should be from +5 to +25 degrees. Higher or lower heat levels can have an adverse effect on the plant's reproduction process and lead to its death.

Caring for juniper at home

Fertilizer for juniper

Some types of juniper require additional fertilizer, so for Virginia juniper you can add half a bucket of compost. For Cossack juniper, it would be nice to add 0.3 kg of dolomite flour. All these procedures are carried out in advance, since after 2 weeks the soil in the hole will have time to compact and the seedling will be able to fit there.

After planting, the root collar of the plant should be 7-10 cm above ground level, again, due to the fact that the earth will still settle. After which the bush is watered, and when the water is completely absorbed, it is worth mulching the area around the trunk, this will protect the soil from drying out.

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Watering juniper

During the period of active growth, it will be sufficient to water the plant only during periods of extreme heat or prolonged absence of rain. One adult bush requires 10-15 liters of water.

It will be an additional advantage if daily spraying is carried out in the evening after a stuffy day. The plant will thank the bright colors of its needles for this.

Juniper pruning

Pruning is carried out when there is a desire to give the juniper an unusual shape. You can also prune if dry branches or deformed areas appear on the plant.

Reproduction of juniper by layering

If you are interested in creeping types of juniper, use propagation by layering. Young branches can be cut throughout the growing season; their rooting occurs faster than the rooting of woody shoots.
Layers are dug in and pinned near the old bush. The day before, river sand and peat are brought into the planting site and it is dug up so that the soil is light and loose. The cuttings are lightly hilled up and watered regularly, but they should not be flooded; excess moisture can cause root rot of the old bush and the death of the cutting from soaking.

After six months or a year, when the cuttings have taken root, they can be transplanted to the place where you plan to grow a new bush.

Propagation of juniper by layering is most often used for creeping forms of the crop. The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season.

The procedure for this is as follows:

• The soil around the mother bush is intensively loosened, peat and river sand are added and watered abundantly.
• The lower part (20-25 cm) of healthy, recently ripened shoots, which are best suited for propagation, is cleared of needles.
• The bare area is pressed to the soil surface and secured with a wire pin.
• The part of the shoot in contact with the soil is sprinkled with peat-sand substrate.

Rooting of the cuttings will take about 6-8 months. During this time, it should be regularly watered and covered with moist soil. With the appearance of young growth on the cuttings, the shoot can be separated from the mother bush and planted as an independent plant.

Juniper pests

Juniper aphids appear on young shoots. Aphids, when multiplying en masse, can cause harm to young plants, since by sucking out the sap, they greatly inhibit and weaken the plant, retard growth, and cause curvature and twisting of damaged shoots.

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On young cones and needles you can see the rounded scutes of females and elongated scutes of males (up to 1-1.5 mm) of the juniper scale insect. In early June, larvae appear and attach themselves to the needles. The needles dry out and fall off, and young plants may die. By sucking sap from bark tissue, the larvae cause damage, leading to the death of the bark, drying out and bending of shoots, and a decrease in annual growth. It affects juniper, thuja, yew, and cypress.

Small mosquitoes, no more than 2.2 mm, fly near plants, then their larvae appear - spindle-shaped and covered with warts, up to 4 mm long, bright yellow, orange, or red. These are gall midges on juniper. The larvae secrete specific growth substances onto the needles, under the influence of which the plant cells begin to rapidly grow and divide, turning into galls. The larvae live and overwinter in them.

The needles are entangled in a thin, sparse web, covered with yellowish spots, later turning brown and crumbling. The spruce spider mite and its larvae damage young plants: juniper, biota, prickly spruce, Canadian spruce, common spruce, and western thuja. Over the summer, the female gives 3–4 generations. The mite causes the greatest damage in hot years to trees growing on dry soils. During the growing season, mites form from four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases towards the end of summer.

Juniper is a member of the cypress family. This is an evergreen coniferous bush (there are tree-shaped varieties).

Grows in the European part of the CIS, prefers sandy soils. Given the juniper's lifespan, some cultures consider it to represent immortality.

The plant has a characteristic pine aroma. Its branches are known to have been used to ward off evil spirits. All parts of juniper have healing properties. Many people prefer to make bath brooms from this plant.

Some types of juniper can reach a height of 12 meters, and the lifespan of some varieties is several thousand years. Juniper has many varieties and species. All of them are unpretentious to grow and are characterized by excellent decorative properties. (You can read the article with a description here).

Juniper is ideal for landscaping work. (Read about the features of using juniper in landscape design). In this article we will look at the ways in which this amazing plant reproduces.

How to propagate

If you have it on your own site, you will definitely want to propagate it. Of course, you can buy a plant that is ready for planting.

But why spend money if you can make many seedlings from one bush yourself? In addition, you can get so much planting material that it is enough to improve your plot and make money from it.

Juniper can be propagated:

• cuttings;
• layering (creeping species);
• seeds.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most preferred method of propagation is cuttings. This method can be implemented throughout our country.

Expert advice: juniper prefers to grow in a well-lit place, so it is best to plant it in an area that receives maximum direct sunlight.

Cuttings

The method of propagating juniper by cuttings is considered the most effective.

This is the only option that allows you to root planting material as quickly as possible.

In this case, the rooting process directly depends on the type and variety of the plant, on the type of cuttings available.

The most unpretentious cuttings for propagation are the following types of juniper:

• common (including Irish and Swedish forms);
• short;
• Cossack;
• Siberian.

Specialist's note: juniper fruits belonging to ordinary appearance, have medicinal properties and are actively used in folk medicine, and the raw berries of this plant are indicated for consumption by people suffering from stomach ulcers.

Work period

Juniper can be propagated by cuttings all year round, but only if all the necessary conditions are available for this.

The optimal period is spring, when rooting of cuttings is carried out in greenhouses.

If you decide to do this at the beginning of summer, then you can root in beds covered with film.

You can also use a greenhouse, but it should not be hot - you need to control and maintain a cold temperature regime. As for winter, they begin to harvest cuttings after severe frosts and root them in greenhouses.

Optimal temperature conditions

The best temperature to start rooting cuttings is considered to be 23-26 °C. This temperature is especially important to maintain when planting material is taken from new growth.

Before the first buds appear on the cuttings, the temperature can be 16-19 °C. At the same time, you must always remember that temperatures above 26 °C are extremely undesirable for planting material.

The substrate in which the cuttings are rooted must always be moist. To do this, planting material is sprayed or devices are installed that create a fog effect.

Procedure

For propagation, cuttings 10-15 cm long are taken. When separating them from the parent plant, you need to ensure that a piece of wood remains at the end of the cutting.

You also need to clear the trunk of the separated cuttings from the needles (no more than 3 cm, starting from the bottom). To obtain high-quality working material, shoots for cuttings should be taken from the upper part of the parent plant.

The cuttings are placed in a solution of a growth stimulator for a day. They are then planted in boxes filled with river sand for rooting. The sand is first neutralized and spilled with potassium permanganate (3% solution). When planting in sand, the planting material is buried 1.5 cm and the soil is compacted around its trunk.

After the cuttings have roots, they are transplanted for subsequent growing, which lasts at least two years.

Seeds

In the literature, practically no attention is paid to the propagation of juniper by seeds. The fact is that in this way it is very difficult to obtain decorative forms this plant. But in order to obtain its usual types, this method is quite suitable and does not cause difficulties.

Obtaining seeds

The first fruits on juniper appear in plants that are 3-5 years old.

At the top of a short side shoot you can see scales that, when ripe, resemble something between a cone and a berry and are green in color.

Fruit ripening occurs after 1-2 years. They turn black and blue. Each cone contains 2-12 oblong seeds. Propagation by seeds makes it possible to obtain strong plants that grow for many years.

Sowing

Juniper seeds have a very low germination rate. For 1 sq.m. Sow approximately 20 grams of seeds. If sown in open ground, then this should be done from September to the end of November.

The grains are embedded in the ground to such a depth that it is equal to five times the size of the seed itself. You will have to wait a long time for seedlings; sometimes grains germinate only after three years.

If you plan to grow juniper through seedlings, the seeds are first kept in a solution of a growth stimulator for 1 hour. Then they are placed in a substrate consisting of sawdust of pine needles and leaf soil.

After seed germination and the formation of developed seedlings, the plants are planted and grown for 2-3 years.

Expert advice: Juniper seeds should be stored in a dry place that is well ventilated (at a temperature of no lower than three and no higher than six degrees).

Seedling care

Water seedlings sprouted from seeds when they dry out. upper layer substrate.

The soil should not be over-moistened.

You need to constantly loosen the soil, pay attention to weeding and mulching.

In winter, seedlings must be protected from frost.

By layering

It is quite easy to propagate juniper by layering. This method is mainly used for creeping species of this plant.

Juniper branches are tilted towards the ground and secured with pins. In places of fixation, the soil must be periodically hilled up and watered. Young shoots are used for rooting.

In order for the juniper shoot to take root as quickly as possible, the soil around the rooting site is prepared. It is dug up, loosened, mixed with peat and coarse garden sand.

Rooting of cuttings occurs within 6-12 months. It is possible to separate a shoot from the mother plant only if it is well developed and grows vertically. The separated shoot, along with the root system, is transplanted into a place designated for further growth of this plant.

Juniper has been decorating human gardens for thousands of years. Its beauty allows you to rest your soul, and healing properties cured from a number of diseases.

Reproduction of this plant is a lengthy procedure, but does not involve any difficulties. Each person, if desired, can propagate as much planting material as is enough to create a real work of art in the field of landscape design on their personal plot.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains the features of juniper propagation by vegetative means (layering):