Basic rules for growing pepper seedlings: how to soak the seeds before planting. How to soak pepper seeds before planting? Soaking methods New from users
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"Finally! Otherwise, we already thought that we would waste the whole month with these preparations!” - everyone wants to quickly see the first result: sprouts. We'll see them soon. The implication is that we have finally seen some sunlight ahead and it is time to start.
Why do you need to soak seeds? In nature, seeds remain dormant for a long time under the influence of drought or cold, as well as under the influence of special inhibitory substances (inhibitors) in the seed coat. Consequently, warm water will wash inhibitory substances from their shells and force them to hatch. “Won’t the same thing happen, we just sow the seeds in moist soil?” The thing is that the seeds can wake up quickly and unanimously, or they can take a long time, one at a time, for a month. There is a difference, and it depends on the volume of water. The seeds somehow know how to distinguish a small amount of water from a large one. If they feel that a lot of water has “flowed”, then this already resembles their native 40-70 cm of water column of annual precipitation - such soil moisture can not only be trusted, but necessary: the seeds give themselves the command to germinate immediately! And if it's just wet ground - who knows, maybe an occasional rain, after which drought will come again...
So, soaking seeds is not just a ritual, it speeds up germination. Although the seeds of many crops germinate easily without soaking.
The soaking technique also has its secrets. Spring melt, or spill, or rain water is “flowing,” that is, saturated with oxygen. It is this water that awakens the seeds. Therefore, there is a noticeable difference whether you soak the seeds under a thick layer of water in a jar or pan, or in a plate with a layer of water no more than 3-5 mm (I pour an even thinner layer so that the seeds lying on the bottom even slightly protrude). in the second case, a thin layer of water breathes well and is completely saturated with a high percentage of oxygen, here the seeds will germinate much faster, sometimes even with evening soaking, if the room is warm, the next morning some of the seeds will have already hatched.
For soaking we use snow water or settled tap water. If there are a lot of seeds, a flat container, like a tray or pot for indoor flowers, is desirable. The seeds can be completely submerged, or you can simply let them float on the surface (I experimented with what would happen if the seeds were soaked floating on the surface, would they swell if only one side touched the water - yes, they soaked and then germinate perfectly, probably because guaranteed to breathe while soaking in a warm place).
To prevent the water from inadvertently evaporating during daily soaking (say, near a battery), cover the top of the container with glass or place it in a bag.
It is customary to soak seeds of different crops for different times depending on the “tightness” of germination, some - 12 hours, some - 24 hours. However, for our convenience, in order not to break up the process and deal with all crops at the same time, it is more convenient to soak everything together “ from evening to evening", i.e. for 24 hours (It’s unlikely that everyone will enjoy warming up seeds or sowing in the morning before work!) With a layer of water, there can be no harm to any type of crop.
I propose to carry out such an experiment during the spring on some unimportant seeds: place them for soaking in a tray that stands slightly inclined (a book is placed on one edge), pour in enough water so that in the raised part it forms a “shallow water” of 1-2 mm ; now distribute the seeds evenly at the bottom throughout the tray - and then let them lie for 1-2 days: you will make sure that during this time the seeds in shallow water have sprouted, and the seeds in the depths will remain ungerminated until they rot. This experience clearly shows how much more vitality water has when it is highly oxygenated. Just a few centimeters deep - there is still oxygen there - but not so, it is no longer enough for the life of the seeds. What then will happen to the seeds when soaked in a deep jar, and even if the water goes rotten in the heat?!
More than half of the seeds sold are of poor quality. Neither beautiful packaging nor the presence of quality certificates serve as a guarantee. There are even bags that are filled with dust instead of seeds. And if everything is clear with them when opening the package, then low-quality seeds are more difficult to distinguish.
Salt test
Large seeds such as cucumbers, zucchini, beets and pumpkins can be easily sorted using a 5% salt solution (50 g per 1 liter of water): the seeds are poured into the solution, mixed and left alone for 5 minutes. After which the “waterfloating” seeds are thrown away. "The Drowned" can be considered high quality. They must be washed in clean water and dried, scattered in a thin layer.
However, this procedure does not guarantee that the seeds have good germination. It must be checked separately, taking a little for germination. For this purpose, puny, floating seeds are also suitable...
It is not advisable to carry out the salt test on seeds coated with a protective coating of fungicides. They can be distinguished by their red or green color. Dyes are specially added so that the seeds are not accidentally used for other purposes. Unfortunately, counterfeiters also began to color the seeds. It is not always possible to calculate them visually. The presence of puny seeds or uneven coloring should raise suspicion.
Checking with a comb
You can also ease your soul by purchasing small-seeded crops. To check, you only need a plastic comb and the seeds themselves. Spread the seeds in a thin layer on the paper and run an electrified comb over them. The puny ones will stick to it, and the rest can easily be used for sowing. They will provide a harvest - unless, of course, they have been stored in a store for 20 years. Germination can also be checked using rejected seeds. The puny ones do not sprout as quickly and give a smaller percentage. But if at least some of the seeds have sprouted, then you can sleep peacefully... Or rather, calmly wait for the sowing season; the remaining ones will sprout even better.
Only when checking it is necessary to maintain the height: hold the comb no closer than 1-2 cm above the surface of the seeds. Otherwise, the entire “strategic reserve” will stick to it. If you choose the right height, some seeds will stick. But to be sure, repeat the operation several times, electrifying the comb against your hair more and more. 20-30% will be rejected - no big deal, the strongest and most productive ones will remain.
Live seeds
It is more difficult with medium-sized seeds. They are like tin soldiers - they don’t sink in water and don’t stick to a comb. However, there is no need to sort here. If you notice signs of poor quality, take the receipt, the seeds and demand a replacement, or better yet, a refund.
Tomatoes are harder to figure out. Sometimes they are polished, inlaid - whatever they do with them. This is where you can get into trouble - by demanding replacement of elite seeds that have gone through a full cycle of fine-tuning. But there are patterns. The main thing is to know the chosen variety well. Thus, usually large-fruited tomatoes have an average seed size, hybrids are small, and gray seeds are either low-quality or polished.
It's even harder to guess with eggplants. Here you just have to trust the conscience of the manufacturer. Although experienced gardeners can immediately identify low-quality seed by eye, noticing a suspicious shade.
But with pepper everything is simple - the straw-yellow seeds are alive and healthy. Gray and other colors of the rainbow - unusable or pickled (red and yellow). If desired, they can be tested with water. Unlike large-seeded crops, there is no need to add salt, otherwise potential “divers” will float to the surface.
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Sowing seeds is the gardener's main concern at the end of February and beginning of March. During this time, the most favorite vegetables are sown - large-fruited tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. They have a long development period before the harvest ripens, so they must be sown first. But sometimes precious time is lost due to the mistakes of the gardener himself. Let’s name the most common mistakes when sowing seeds so that you don’t “step on this rake” again.
1. Incorrect soaking of seeds. Often the seeds are soaked by pouring water over them and kept in water for a long time, waiting for the seeds to hatch. But this doesn't happen. What is the reason? Are the seeds bad? No, they just suffocated in the water. It is correct to soak the seeds on a saucer with a damp cloth so that there is air access to the seeds. To prevent the fabric (or gauze) from drying out, place the saucer in a bag.
2. Overdrying of seeds. During soaking, it is recommended to ventilate the seeds by opening the bag. While busy, the gardener sometimes forgets to cover the seeds again with a damp cloth or put them in a bag. As a result, the seeds dry out in just 2-3 hours. It is not dangerous for dry seeds to remain in the open air, but if they are already swollen, and even more so “bent”, overdrying leads to the death of the embryo.
It is not necessary to ventilate the seeds for a long time. It is enough if you check every day to see if they have hatched. In this case, you open the bag with a damp cloth, and this is enough for the seeds to receive a new portion of air. After that, put them back in the bag.
3. Seed rotting. To soak seeds, you need to use only clean containers, clean cloth (gauze) and a clean (new!) bag. If you place a saucer of seeds in a bag that previously contained, say, bread, then mold may appear if the humidity is high. From the bag, mold will quickly spread to the gauze and seeds. Even if the seeds do not die, their growth energy will be reduced.
4. Sowing too deep. The depth of sowing seeds depends on their size. Large seeds (pumpkin, zucchini, beans) and medium ones (like tomatoes and peppers) are sown at a depth of about 2-4 times their size. Tomato and pepper seeds are buried 1 cm. Small seeds, like poppy, petunia, and lobelia, are not sprinkled at all or are lightly “powdered” with sand. Deeper sowing, especially in dense soil, may result in the seeds not germinating.
5. Crust on the soil. To sow seeds for seedlings, loose, light soil is used. On such soil, a crust does not form, which prevents germination. If the soil was taken from the garden or bought cheap soil in a store, then the crust on the surface can destroy the seeds. Too much watering can also lead to the formation of a crust, after which the soil dries out quickly in the hot, dry climate of the room. In such conditions, the seeds will not break through the crust.
6. Cold temperature on the window. Seeds of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other crops require high air temperatures for germination, preferably 23-26 degrees. It can be much cooler on the windowsill. In wet, cold soil, seeds can rot and die, especially small seeds.
7. Excessive watering. If the soil is too wet after sowing, there is not enough air in it, and the seeds can also rot.
8. Fungal diseases, in particular blackleg. Fungal infections are constantly in the air and threaten our seedlings. As a rule, only weak plants are affected due to gross errors in agricultural technology. Actually, they are all already named. These are dense soil and crust on the surface, too wet soil, low soil and air temperatures. As well as thickened crops and stretching of seedlings.
The last reason most often leads to the appearance of a black leg. Thin, elongated plants have delicate tissues through which infections easily penetrate.
Stretching occurs due to lack of light and too high a temperature. Therefore, a gardener must remember the three main commandments: light, light and light again! If there is a lack of light, you need to lower the air temperature and reduce watering.
So, dear gardeners, the main mistakes have been named. Don't repeat them and you will succeed. I wish you rich harvests!
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Treating seeds before planting is the key to healthy and strong plants. Most diseases are transmitted with seed, so it is necessary to properly prepare the seeds for sowing.
Let us consider in detail how to prepare seeds before sowing.
Before sowing, seeds must be disinfected, except for encrusted and pelleted seeds.
F1 hybrid seeds– undergo processing before hitting the store counter. Treatment is carried out against pests and diseases. Hybrid seeds are completely ready for sowing. They are sown dry directly into the ground or pre-treated with growth stimulants if desired.
Sorting seeds before sowing
Before sowing, the collected seeds from your garden must be sorted out, leaving large and healthy ones. To select empty seeds, we need a solution of table salt (dissolve 2 grams in 100 ml of water).
Dip the seeds into the solution, stir and after 10 minutes the empty seeds will float to the surface, throw them away, they are not suitable. Rinse the remaining seeds in running water and dry.
How to treat seeds?
Varietal seeds, purchased and collected from the garden, must be treated against diseases and pests. Flower seeds are also treated before sowing.
Video - Treating seeds before sowing
The seeds are placed in a bag and placed in a thermos with hot water for 20-30 minutes. After this, immediately rinse with cold water for 1 minute. Follow the heat treatment regime, otherwise most seeds will become unsuitable.
Temperature and processing time are indicated in the table.
Attention: During heat treatment of seeds, about 30% may lose germination. Everything is fine, non-viable seeds die.
To combat viral diseases, soak the seeds in a weak solution of Immunocytophyte (1 tablet per 100 ml of water) for 3 to 12 hours. You can also keep it in Fitosporin solution according to the instructions.
A solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) works well. To do this, pre-heat the seeds in hot water (45-50 degrees) for 2 hours. It is better to use a thermos for this procedure. After warming up, place the seeds for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (1-2% solution).
For processing crops such as onion, radish, tomato, physalis, lettuce, legumes, corn- pickle in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 45 minutes.
Carrots, eggplant, peppers, dill, cabbage and pumpkin- use a 2% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes.
Also use special preparations for treating seeds - Bunker, Commander, Winner, Baitan, Fundazol and others.
Attention- after treating with chemicals, be sure to rinse the seeds with water at room temperature.
Treating seeds with hydrogen peroxide
An effective way to treat seeds before sowing is to disinfect and prepare the seeds. You will need 10% hydrogen peroxide. Seeds spread out on gauze are soaked in a bowl, or you can put the seeds in a bag and dip them in peroxide. Soak for 12 hours, no more.
For rapid growth of seeds, they are soaked in any growth stimulant or warm water (it is better to soak in melt or rain water).
Pre-freeze the water, then place the ice in a bowl and let it melt completely, then lower the seeds, they should be completely in the water. Cucumbers and tomatoes are soaked for 19 hours, legumes for 7 hours, celery and onions for 35 hours.
Biological products stimulate seed germination more strongly.
You can prepare growth stimulants at home like this:
Dilute 1 spoon of wood ash in 100 ml of water, leave for a day (solution temperature 17-20 degrees), in this way the seeds are enriched with microelements;
-- Dilute 20-25 drops of liquid peat potassium humate in 100 ml of water, soak for 12 hours;
-- With Epin (2 drops per 100 ml of water), soak for 18 hours;
-- Fertilizer New Ideal or Signor Tomato (20 grams per 1 liter of water), soak for 30 minutes.
There is also a proven old way: soak the seeds in aloe juice for a day. Then dry the seeds on paper.
Attention: when soaking seeds for more than 10 hours, change the water every 3-4 hours to enrich it with oxygen and to prevent the water from spoiling.
After the soaking procedure, dry the seeds a little and immediately sow them in the ground.
Video - Super way to soak seeds
To increase the cold resistance of crops, it is necessary to first harden them. Place the seeds in bags and soak in water for 12 hours. After soaking, keep at a temperature of 15-20 degrees for 12 hours, then place in the refrigerator at a temperature of 3 degrees for 12 hours.
Vernalization of seeds
Cooling or vernalization of seeds accelerates the germination of cold-resistant crops. This method is used for parsley, carrots, and parsnips. Pre-soak the seeds at room temperature until completely swollen, germinate in damp gauze until 10-15% of the seeds hatch. Then place the seeds for two weeks in a room with a temperature of 0 to 1 degrees.
Attention: It is not recommended to prepare beet seeds, spinach, and lettuce seeds in this way.
Video - Super product for soaking and germinating seeds
To ensure rapid germination of seeds, they are saturated with oxygen. You will need a regular aquarium compressor or a special bubbler.
Seeds of perennial crops with a pronounced dormant period need stratification. These seeds require cold to germinate. The container is filled with sand and the seeds are placed in it.
The container with the seeds is placed in the refrigerator; it can be buried in the snow for a period of 2 weeks to six months, it all depends on the type of crop.
Scarification of seeds
Seeds of perennials with a dense shell are scarified. The dense shell prevents the appearance of sprouts, so the seeds are ground with sand or between sheets of sandpaper.
Stratification and scarification This is not carried out for all crops, so it is not necessary to treat all seeds in this way.
Appears to be red, yellow and blue. Such seeds are treated with polymers, which ensures seed germination and reliable protection from pests.
There is no need to further process these seeds. They are sown dry in moist, ready soil.
The seeds are covered with a peat-mineral mixture. The mixture creates a nutritious and protective shell; the processed seeds are larger in size and round in shape.
It is economically profitable to sow pelleted seeds; the seed consumption during sowing is small, and thinning is not necessary.
Seeds are sown dry, laid out in prepared holes or furrows. Water the soil well before sowing.
Video - Three ways to soak seeds
You have learned all the ways to prepare seeds before sowing in the ground. The main types of processing are sorting, dressing and soaking; without them you will not be able to get healthy and strong plants and, accordingly, a good harvest.
- one of the first vegetable crops, which gardeners plant to produce seedlings. This is explained by the long vegetative period and period of fruit ripening in this southern plant.
One of the constant questions that worries gardeners is whether to soak pepper seeds before planting or sow them directly into the ground? The final result - productivity - depends on proper preparation before germination.
Do you need to soak pepper seeds before planting, and why do you do it?
Soak- the process itself is optional, the seed will germinate without it, and maybe even give an excellent harvest. This allows supporters of sowing without preparation to claim that soaking is an unnecessary hassle.
Living in warm climatic conditions makes it possible to sow pepper even immediately in open ground, it will still have enough time to ripen. Residents of temperate zones value every day, and if there is an opportunity to speed up the process and gain time before the finish line, they readily use it, because pepper ripened on a bush is much healthier and tastier than one that arrived later. In moderate conditions, pepper seeds must be soaked; without this procedure, the fruits will not have time to ripen before frost.
However, summer residents living in warmer regions would also benefit from such a head start: firstly, the harvest is more abundant, and secondly, it’s nice when the peppers ripen earlier than expected. This also applies to spicy varieties.
Advantages of soaking seed before planting:
- allows you to win 7–10 days, since seedlings from treated specimens appear on the 5–7th day, while those sown “dry” sprout up to 2 weeks;
- makes it possible to select the strongest plants, providing them with immunity, high resistance to and m and providing the best conditions already at the start.
Important! It is imperative to soak pepper seeds before planting when you are not sure of the quality of the seed. This will help you immediately see what you are dealing with and not have any illusions.
The main stages of preparing pepper seeds
Preparation of seed material begins with the acquisition stage. You need to pay close attention to the manufacturer and carefully study the information indicated on the packaging, choosing the characteristics of the variety you need. A self-respecting manufacturer indicates what treatments his product was subjected to. Seeds processed and coated by the manufacturer cannot be subjected to any additional influence; they can only be sown in the ground. It should be taken into account that, although they will emerge a couple of weeks later, they will subsequently catch up with their “relatives”, and then overtake them, while they will suffer less from pests and diseases.
Did you know? At the end of the 16th century, pepper came to Russia, or rather-to the territory of the modern Astrakhan region. The source of penetration, according to various sources, is Türkiye and Iran.
It is better to prefer material from those manufacturers whose packaging indicates compliance with GOST - it is more reliable.
The packaging must not show any mechanical damage. You definitely need to pay attention to the year the raw materials were collected and the deadline for sowing - this information must be present without fail.
Pepper seeds planted in the second year after harvest lose their germination capacity and yield by half. 
Calibration
Calibration is a test of seed material for germination. When soaked in a saline solution, hollow specimens float, and those capable of germination sink to the bottom.
Did you know? There is one caveat:material from large manufacturers is almost always dried, so immersing such seeds in a saline solution will show that they are all unusable, but this is not true.
Before immersing in the solution, you should visually evaluate the material laid out on paper and immediately reject specimens that seem unsuitable, as well as those that are too small or too large. After this, you need to dilute a teaspoon of salt in a glass of water (or 40 g of salt in a liter of water) and put the seeds there for 3-4 hours. Some gardeners limit themselves to a few minutes. Floating seeds should be discarded, and sunken seeds should be dried for further use or sown immediately.
If you bought a bag of ten pepper seeds of a rare variety, you probably shouldn’t calibrate them - germination will show everything clearly. But the self-collected seed, which you have in decent quantities, should be checked in a similar way in order to immediately get rid of the unusable ballast. 
Etching
Pickling, or disinfection, is carried out in order to rid the prepared raw materials of possible contamination by pathogenic microorganisms that can harm the future. At its core, this is disinfection.
Important! The dressing technique is one of the main ones in preparation for sowing; all other manipulations are carried out after it.
Such processing is all the more relevant the less reliable the source of raw materials. Material from a large, reputable company may not need to be etched, especially if the packaging contains information that it has already been done. But seeds collected personally, received from friends by way of exchange, and especially those purchased at the market, should certainly be pickled.
For this, different drugs are used: potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate), hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, boric acid and even formaldehyde; There are also special ones that you can buy in the store. Each of these methods has both advantages and disadvantages, and the gardener himself chooses which one to give preference to. 
Despite the fact that potassium permanganate is not so easy to find on sale, this method remains the most popular: it has an unlimited shelf life, and a bottle purchased many years ago or on occasion lasts for a very long time.
Some methods of seed treatment:
- Seeds, previously soaked in warm water for 2–4 hours, are placed in a dark pink 1% solution, which can be placed in a gauze bag for convenience, and left for 15 minutes, after which they are immediately thoroughly washed under running water and immediately sown or laid out on paper to dry.
Important! Seeds can get chemical burns if they are not soaked before the procedure and not washed after it.
- The disinfection solution requires 2–3%, and it must be heated to 38–40 °C. Leave the seeds for no more than 7 minutes, rinse thoroughly.
- The drug is diluted at the rate of half a teaspoon of acid per glass of water. Solution temperature 25–30 °C, treatment duration 2–3 hours.
Important! When treating seed with any acid, keep in mind that if there is the slightest crack in the seed, the acid will damageto him harm.
- This is a purchased drug that contains natural bacteria and fights pathogens. It is diluted at the rate of 4 drops from an eye dropper per glass of water.
Disinfected raw materials cannot be stored for longer than a day; it is advisable to immediately plant them or start germinating them.
Treatment with microelements and growth stimulants
Treatment with microelements and growth regulators is needed in order to have a positive effect on the quality of seedlings and germination, increase resistance to negative effects and resistance to sudden temperature changes, and also increase yield.
To enrich the seed, infusion of ash, juice, as well as purchased preparations “Ivin” and others are used. 
- This technique is used only after disinfection, but in no case before it.
- Microelements should be dissolved in hot water at 40–45 °C, and the seed should be placed in a solution that has cooled to a warm state.
- Raw materials can be treated with growth stimulants only once and only with one drug.
- You should strictly follow the rules for preparing the solution and the timing of keeping it in it so as not to cause harm.
Several options for solutions for enriching seeds with microelements:
Important! Be careful: aloe juice is very bitter, and it leaves stains, so it is advisable to cover your work area with cellophane when handling it.
Soak
How to soak pepper seeds in order to give the embryos the best at the start for future vigorous growth and active fruiting? To increase the likelihood of germination, they must swell when saturated with moisture.
Pre-treated seeds are placed on a substrate and filled with water so that it barely covers them. The raw pepper should be kept for two days in a warm place, during which time the water should be changed 2-3 times. After swelling, germinate or sow. 
Important! In the heat, a thin layer of water quickly evaporates, so you need to carefully monitor so that its level does not drop, but you cannot pour more water, so that the seeds do not suffocate. You can cover the container with the material with film to prevent evaporation.
Many gardeners know a way to soak pepper seeds and at the same time germinate them before planting. To do this, the seeds are placed in an envelope made from a square of old natural fabric, moistened with water and placed in some container. Excess water from the container is drained or blotted and, covered with film, placed in a warm place.
It is better to use melt or spring water for this purpose. If there is no access to a spring, no snow has fallen, and all you have is tap water, you will have to turn it into melt water. To do this, the settled water is placed in the freezer for a couple of hours, the middle, which is not frozen, is poured out, and the ice that has formed on the walls is allowed to melt. After this, the water is carefully drained, leaving sediment in the container. The drained melted water is used for germination.
There should not be excess water in the container containing the moistened fabric envelopes with seeds, but if the container is large, you can place a “reservoir” there in the form of a moistened piece of foam rubber or several cotton pads. 
There is no definitive answer to how long pepper seeds should be soaked before planting. Every day you need to look under the film, sprinkle the envelopes with melt water and check if they have begun to hatch.
Important! For the germination process, you should carefully monitor the temperature; it should be around 25–30 °C. If it is lower, germination will be delayed, and at temperatures below 18 ° C the seeds will completely rot.
After waiting for pecking, each living seed is placed in a seedling box using tweezers. A day later, another audit is carried out, those who have come back to life are selected and disembarked. Unsprouted seeds are not used - they will be of little use.
Nature designed it in such a way that the seed material is not exposed to external influences and does not deteriorate for a long time. This occurs due to the protective layer located on their surface. But this same layer prevents rapid germination. 
One of the technologies that reduces germination time is bubbling. This is the effect of oxygen on seeds of a certain species for a specific time. Using this method allows you to get seedlings a week earlier.
To carry out the bubbling procedure at home, you need to have a container with a volume of about a liter and an aquarium compressor.
The jar is filled with water at a temperature of 20 °C a little more than half, the compressor and seeds are placed there, no more than ¼ of the volume of water.
The compressor turns on and the material is processed. Pepper seeds will need 24 hours for this.
After the procedure, the seeds are dried to a loose state and, if it is not possible to plant them immediately, they are finally dried, laid out in one layer on paper in a ventilated room away from sunlight. 
Hardening of planting material
It makes sense to harden the seeds if you intend to sow them under the film a week ahead of schedule. If hardening is used for seeds for seedlings, then subsequently the seedlings themselves will need to be hardened for quite a long time.
Did you know? There is a hardening method in which the seeds, wrapped in a bag, are placed in a snowdrift for three days, but this is only possible when the air temperature outside is around zero degrees.
Heated and pickled seeds are hardened. They are soaked until they swell in warm water, mixed with sand or wet sawdust.
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