The main mistakes when painting the ceiling. Proper whitewashing of the ceiling using old whitewash is a proven method. Why does the ceiling remain yellow after whitewashing?

Whitewashing walls with lime is a procedure well known to many ordinary people. It enjoys well-deserved trust due to the fact that such a coating is breathable and has an antiseptic effect.

You can do the work yourself, without involving specialists, but that’s all necessary materials do not require significant material costs. To make it work high-quality coating, you need to know some of the features and subtleties of preparing the composition.

It is important to apply it correctly to the prepared surface. Before whitewashing ceilings or walls, you need to choose a base for preparing the solution. It can be chalk or lime.

Lime resists the development of fungus

Despite the fact that using chalk is the simplest and affordable way preparing a composition for whitening indoor surfaces, lime is in great demand. This is due to the fact that walls and ceilings treated with lime whitewash are not susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew. The most popular composition for whitewashing walls is fluff. White powder that has undergone the quenching procedure and is ready for use after adding water and fixatives.

Modern manufacturers sell lime:

1. Slaked, supplied to places of sale in the form of powder or paste (dough).
2. Quicklime, sold in the form of granules or large lumps.

After filling the lime with water, close the container with a lid.

For whitewashing use only slaked lime, for the preparation of which you will need:

• water and lime itself, taken in a 1:1 ratio;
• clean metal utensils no chips or corrosion;
• lid for container;
• wooden spatula for mixing the solution.

After the quicklime is poured cold water, it begins to boil, heating up to 130 ° C. The reaction is very violent, the liquid bubbles and splashes fly into different sides. At this point, it is better to cover the container with a lid to avoid getting the mixture on bare skin.

Use plastic dishes it is impossible, since the solution gets very hot during the quenching process, and the composition can be mixed only after the reaction is completed. Now you need to close the container with a lid and put it in a cool place. dark place for 20-25 days.

At the end of the specified time, the composition is thoroughly mixed.

Achieve complete dissolution of granules

There should be a thick white film left on the wooden spatula. The mixture required for whitewashing is diluted with cold clean water, achieving a homogeneous opaque composition. Approximate quantity the finished solution prepared from 1 kg of quicklime is 10 liters.

During quenching, all lumps and granules must be completely dissolved in water, but before use, the contents of the container must be thoroughly mixed, and before use, strain through a special mesh.

The tool for performing whitening can be selected taking into account the wishes of the average person or the characteristics of the surface being treated:

• spray gun.

When using a spray gun, the resulting mixture will have to be filtered through cheesecloth to remove even the smallest remaining lumps.

How to increase the stability of the solution

Soap will give the solution durability

In order to whitewash walls with not only a high-quality but also durable solution, you will need to add some special additives to it. You can use regular laundry soap or wallpaper glue. Whitewashing lime is used for application to façade walls.

In this case, you need to protect the composition from negative impact precipitation and rapid rinsing. This can be done by introducing drying oil into the solution, which will repel moisture and help the whitewash to remain on the walls as long as possible.

The introduction of certain additives into the whitewash composition will prevent lime from falling off the walls.

Surfaces whitened with lime tend to stain everything that touches them. This can be avoided by adding ordinary table salt to the solution.

Knowing the proportions allows you to achieve the desired effect:

• lime and salt - 1 kg per 10 liters of solution; salt will help make the surface snow-white;
• drying oil - 100 ml per bucket of whitewash;
• laundry soap, grated on a coarse grater, poured hot water, and then during the preparation of the bleach mixture, a soap solution is added instead of water.

Sometimes craftsmen advise adding carpentry glue to the solution instead of a small portion of PVA or wallpaper glue. It is boiled on steam bath and before whitening the walls, it is added hot to the prepared lime whitewash. For more information on how to apply whitewash, watch this video:

It is convenient to apply whitewash with a roller

One of the most popular recipes for preparing bleach composition:

• 5 kg of slaked lime;
• 100 g crushed and brewed laundry soap;
• 50 g wood glue;
• 10-15 g of linen blue powder;
• 8 liters of clean cold water.

After mixing all the above ingredients, add water, mix thoroughly and let it brew for 5-10 hours. You can apply it to the surface using a roller, a special bleaching brush or a wide paint brush(maklavitsa).

Before you whitewash a wall with lime, you should make sure that it is intact and that there are no cracks or cracks. Thick lime whitewash can easily hide a microcrack on a putty surface, but larger cracks must be eliminated before work begins.

Work order

In some cases, whitewash can be sprayed onto the walls

Whitening does not take much time and will not take much effort from the average person if it is carried out in accordance with existing rules. First of all, it is worth mentioning the need preparatory work. All walls and ceilings that are planned to be whitened must first be puttied, applying putty in two layers.

After complete drying (after 12 hours), you can proceed to the surface using sandpaper. In the case where wood glue or PVA was added to the whitewash mixture, priming of the walls is not required. The whitewash will last for at least 5 years without cracking, crumbling, or staining the hands and clothes of residents. Read more about fast way see whitewash in this video:

To ensure high-quality painting of the walls, cover them with two layers of lime.

The composition is applied in two layers with completely dry. Before you start re-bleaching, you need to wait at least 5 hours. A properly prepared solution does not leave noticeable transitions or marks (stripes) from a brush or brush.

When working with a spray gun, it is important to prepare the mixture at the correct consistency and not spray it from a short distance. This way you can avoid drips and achieve uniform distribution of whitewash over the surface.

In order for all layers to be of the same quality, you will have to constantly mix the contents of the container, preventing sediment from forming.

IN modern world design, much attention is paid to stretch ceilings with beautiful lighting and a multi-level structure or ceilings trimmed with wood and plastic panels. Undoubtedly, such ceilings look impressive, but they require significant effort and financial resources for its creation. For those who want to receive beautiful ceiling With minimal costs, you should pay attention to whitewashing the ceiling. This simple finishing method has been known for a long time and is still relevant. Whitewashing the ceiling has many advantages over modern options finishing and can be done in various ways. There are no special difficulties or secrets in how to whitewash a ceiling; the main thing is to understand the essence of the work being performed and be able to handle the tool.

Surface preparation

Whitewashing the ceiling begins with preparing the surface. At this stage of work, it is necessary to clean the surface of the old coating and, if necessary, level it, as well as repair the ceiling itself. All of the above work is required if you do not want unevenness to be visible on the surface of the ceiling after whitewashing, and the whitewash itself does not crumble after a couple of months.

Ceiling cleaning

Cleaning the ceiling surface is mandatory in preparation for whitewashing. This is due to several factors. Firstly, the old coating may be made of a material that will eventually show through the whitewash layer. Secondly, the old coating may peel off in places and will completely disappear after whitewashing. Thirdly, by removing the old finish, you can more accurately assess the condition of the ceiling and the need for its repair. Fourthly, only by applying a layer of whitewash to a clean and carefully prepared surface can you be sure of the durability of the whitewash. The method of cleaning the ceiling depends on the material of the old finish.

To complete all ceiling cleaning work, you may need the following:

• stepladder or goat;
• putty knife;
• wide brush or roller;
• hammer or perforator;
• spray bottle or water container.

If the ceilings were previously painted with oil or acrylic paint , then you can delete it as mechanically, and with the help of a special wash. In the first case, using a regular hammer, the paint is knocked off the surface. In the second, the surface is coated with a chemical remover and after some time the paint is carefully removed using a spatula. Which method to choose is up to the owners to decide. But it is worth noting that in the first case the work is quite inconvenient and difficult. As for the second option, despite its simplicity, using a chemical remover is very harmful to health.

To those who the ceiling is covered with wallpaper, you need to do the following. The entire surface of the ceiling should be wetted warm water and let the wallpaper absorb the water. And then after 10 - 15 minutes, use a spatula to clean the ceiling from the wallpaper. If in some places the wallpaper does not yield, you can re-moisten it with warm water and then try to remove it again. As soon as the ceiling surface is cleared of wallpaper, it should be washed to remove any remaining adhesive.

Old whitewash and water emulsion are removed from the ceiling surface in two ways. The first is that the entire surface is wetted with warm water using a roller or sprayer, and then the coating is carefully scraped off with a spatula. Second, the whitewash is removed “dry” using a spatula or a metal brush. The first method is more preferable, since there will not be a lot of dust during the removal process. Upon completion, the ceiling should be washed to completely remove any remnants of the old coating and allow it to dry.

Sometimes the ceiling surface is tiled. In such cases, you may need a hammer or even a hammer drill to clean the ceiling. After the tile has been removed, the surface is cleaned of any remaining adhesive mixture or cement mortar.

Whatever the old ceiling finish, when it is removed, you should be left with bare and clean concrete or wooden surface ceilings When performing ceiling cleaning work, you must take care in advance to protect your eyes and respiratory tract. It wouldn't hurt to cover plastic film floor to make cleaning easier later.

After removing the old finish from the ceiling, it is necessary to thoroughly inspect the surface for cracks, unevenness or other damage. All deficiencies found will have to be corrected. The order of the work is as follows. First we open up the cracks. To do this, use the corner of a spatula to slightly expand the crack itself. Next, apply a deep penetration primer to the damaged area of ​​the ceiling and let it dry, then putty. It is worth noting that for shallow cracks this will be enough. But if the depth of cracks and depressions is more than 3 mm, then you will have to use a painting mesh, which will be hidden under a layer of putty for a more reliable repair.

If rust has previously appeared on the surface of the ceiling, then it is necessary to protect the whitewashed ceiling from this. To eliminate and protect the surface from the appearance of rust stains, the places where it appears should be treated with copper sulfate.

The next step is to completely level the surface. To do this, the entire ceiling is primed and a painting mesh is glued to its surface. Then the surface of the ceiling is puttied. After drying, the ceiling is sanded so that there are no irregularities left on its surface.

To whitewash the ceiling, repairing its surface is mandatory for those who want to see perfectly flat ceiling after whitewashing, and for those who are just going to make cosmetic repairs. After all, the slightest defects can be seen on a whitewashed or painted ceiling, which spoils the overall impression of the renovation.

Upon completion of the preparation of the ceiling surface, you can proceed directly to finishing. Whitewashing the ceiling is done in several different ways using the three most popular materials - lime, chalk or water-based paint. It should be immediately noted that the price for whitewashing a ceiling depends on the materials used. So, whitewashing the ceiling with lime and chalk will be the cheapest, but whitewashing the ceiling with water-based emulsion will cost a little more. However, in comparison with other methods of finishing the ceiling, whitewashing is really the cheapest and environmentally friendly option.

We begin whitewashing work with preparing a primer for whitewashing. It is usually made using slaked lime. But if there is any primer left over after repairing the ceiling, you can use that too. To make a primer, you will need 200 g of laundry soap, 2 liters of hot water and 100 g of drying oil, 3 kg of slaked lime.

Cut the soap into small pieces or shavings and then dissolve in hot water. As soon as the soap has dissolved, add drying oil and mix thoroughly. In a separate container, dilute lime using 4 liters of water. After this, mix the lime and soap solutions with each other. The resulting concentrate should be diluted with 10 liters of water, after which it can be used. Sometimes wood glue is used instead of lime for priming.

After the primer is diluted with water, it must be filtered through cheesecloth or a sieve so that the resulting mixture is homogeneous. Now apply primer to the ceiling surface. To do this, you can use a roller, a wide brush or a spray bottle. After applying the primer, the tool should be washed thoroughly. After the entire ceiling is covered with a layer of primer, we proceed to whitewashing.

Important! Today, buying a compressor and a spray gun is not a big problem. But if funds do not allow, then you can use a vacuum cleaner that has a hose connection for “blowing”. This function was provided in old Soviet vacuum cleaners. The kit of such vacuum cleaners also includes a special spray nozzle.

The next step would be preparation of chalk or lime mortar . For chalk whitewash, dissolve 3 kg of chalk or lime in 5 liters of water and add 20 g of ultramarine (blue). Mix everything thoroughly and strain through cheesecloth or a sieve. The resulting solution should have a uniform consistency without lumps. This amount of chalk whitewash is enough for about 10 - 12 m2.

Important! Ultramarine, or as it is also called “blue,” is added to chalk whitewash to preserve the white color of the chalk. The fact is that the chalky surface acquires a yellowish color over time, and ultramarine will preserve its whiteness.

For lime whitewash dissolve 3 kg of lime in 10 liters of water with the addition of 100 g of ordinary table salt and 200 g of aluminum alum. Preparing lime whitewash involves the risk of burns, so strict precautions must be observed when working with such whitewash. It is necessary to work with rubber gloves, and when applying to the ceiling, protect your eyes with goggles. Airways respirator. It is also worth noting one more important feature lime whitewash. It is an excellent sanitary remedy against fungi and mold. This will be especially useful for those who have thought about the question of what and how to whitewash the ceiling in the bathroom and kitchen.

Important! Before applying whitewash, it is highly advisable to cover the floor with plastic film to protect it from drops of chalk, paint or lime. It would also be a good idea to protect the walls in this way. The film is glued to them using masking tape. In addition, on the walls in this way you can make an indentation from the ceiling for whitewashing.

Now Let's start applying whitewash to the ceiling surface. This can be done with a roller, brush or spray. If you use a spray bottle, then this best option. Since the whitewash is sprayed evenly and thin layer. But it is necessary to note two important points. Firstly, whitewash will have to be applied in several approaches. First apply the first layer, then let it dry for 1.5 - 2 hours and then apply the next one. Secondly, whitewash should be sprayed in a circular motion at a distance of 15 - 20 cm so that small drops fall on the surface of the ceiling.

If whitewashing is done using a roller or brush, then everything is somewhat more complicated, since you will have to apply the whitewash very carefully. The process of whitewashing with a roller or brush is as follows. After wetting the brush or roller, squeeze it a little to get rid of excess liquid, then carefully apply it to the ceiling. We make smooth straight movements in the direction from the window. So we apply the first layer of whitewash. After letting the first layer dry, apply the second perpendicular to the first. In this simple way, imperfections will be covered, and the surface will acquire a rich color.

In many ways similar to whitewashing with chalk or lime. The difference lies in preparing the surface for painting. Where, instead of a homemade primer, a deep penetration primer is necessarily applied. In addition, purchasing paint eliminates the need to prepare and dilute a solution of chalk or lime. Today, the most common whitewashing of the ceiling is Snezka. Water-based paint from this manufacturer is famous for its excellent characteristics and at an affordable price. It should be noted that in addition to ready-made water-based paint, you can find ready-made whitewash chalk and lime mortars on the market. Like, for example, lime paints from Bio Apnena. The main advantage of such paints and solutions is that they are completely ready mix with the addition of all the necessary components in the right amount. It is enough to add a little water to such mixtures and stir thoroughly before use.

After 2-3 layers of whitewash have been applied to the ceiling, leave it to dry. At the same time, it is important to observe several simple rules. Under no circumstances should you speed up the drying process by opening doors and windows wide. Also, drying of the whitewash should take place in a room shaded from sunlight.

The work of whitewashing the ceiling is quite simple to perform, and even a beginner can do it with some skill. The main thing is to adhere to safety precautions and follow the above recommendations.

To ensure that the painting of the ceiling is of the highest quality possible, correct any imperfections that appeared after the first layer had dried. To do this, inspect the ceiling during a daytime visit, as this way it is easier to see paint defects. The second and third layers can be applied only after they have been removed.

You can get rid of defects in various ways, depending on their type. If you find bumps and depressions on the ceiling, remove them with putty or sandpaper. Incorrect painting technology with lime or adhesives can also lead to defects, which can often be corrected only by redoing the work. A small amount of glue, chalk with too large grains or unstrained composition can cause the paint layer to peel off. You can try to eliminate this defect by spraying an adhesive solution over the damaged area with a spray gun or re-priming and painting.

Mistakes when painting the ceiling - thick paint

The applied layer of paint can peel off for various reasons. The most common of them are: too thick paint, too much glue in it, too thick a layer of paint that you applied to the surface to be painted and some others. Also, the paint may peel off due to the fact that the surface to be painted was not carefully prepared: contaminants or particles were not removed wax composition. If you notice such a defect, then you need to first remove the loose paint, and then thoroughly wash the surface with warm water and soap or pumice, and repaint the surface after it has dried. If you used a water-based composition, then the paint on the defective surface should be smeared with a damp brush so that part of the coating is washed off. If this does not help, remove it completely, and then re-prime and repaint the surface.

Mistakes when painting the ceiling - soluble salts

Sometimes soluble salts appear on the ceiling, which create a white crystalline coating on the surface, also called efflorescence. The most common reason for this is increased surface humidity. To prevent this defect from occurring, it is necessary to dry the ceiling and then clean it with steel brushes. After this, apply plaster to the surface again and paint after drying. oil paint, and then treat with putty and primer.

If the surface was painted using old paint or without a primer, then “painting” may appear on the ceiling, which can be removed by washing away the old paint or, better yet, by cleaning the surface and painting the ceiling again.

If the paint composition is not mixed properly or the brush is pressed unevenly during painting, a defect such as “striations” may occur. It can be eliminated by washing the defective area and repainting it with a spray gun.

If you are painting a ceiling that has many cracks treated with gypsum, then apply the primer especially carefully, covering all the cracks, otherwise so-called “veins” may appear on the surface. To eliminate them, the painting procedure will have to be repeated again, after first removing the layer with the “veins” and applying a primer. Cracks should be primed twice.

Paint concentration

Special attention You should pay attention to the concentration of the paint, since a layer that is too thick or thin can lead to the formation of folds, which can be eliminated by bringing the paint composition to the required viscosity and repainting the defective area with it.

If you used unstrained paint or coarse sand, or the putty on the surface was poorly sanded, then small bumps may appear on the ceiling, located nearby. The rough texture of the paint (as this defect is called) can be eliminated by washing off the applied layer of paint and carefully treating the surface with sandpaper or pumice. After this, it is necessary to re-prime and paint with a high-quality paint composition.

Marble stains

When using a sealed paint composition, marble-like spots may appear on the surface. You can get rid of such a defect by washing away the paint layer and painting the surface with an adhesive composition.

Weak primer

If the primer is weak, joints between areas may be noticeable. This defect can also appear if the coloring is incorrect. To eliminate this defect, you need to wash the ceiling with water, prime it, and then re-paint it.

Paint color

Paint color may change if unstable pigments are used. If this happens, wash off the paint and paint with more stable pigments.

Non-drying stains

Non-drying stains different colors usually appear due to the fact that the coloring took place over undried paint. Neutralize alkalis in the stain using a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, wash the area, and after it has dried, apply primer and putty, and then paint the ceiling with quality materials.

Thick paint

If the paint is too thick, brush marks may appear on the surface. This paint should be carefully sanded with sandpaper or pumice, and then repainted.

Wrinkles may appear on a thick layer of paint, which can be removed by thoroughly cleaning the ceiling, and then filling and painting the area again.

Rust spots

If tar or mineral oil stains on the surface are not removed, rusty or dark spots. They can be eliminated by removing the paint from the surface, washing it with alkalis and acids and covering it with alcohol varnish. Then the surface should be repainted.

Huge variety of materials for finishing is replacing old methods of repair, and lime whitewashing is no longer used as widely as it was 50 years ago. But this method, proven by generations, fully corresponds to the expression “cheap and cheerful.” If you are planning to whitewash walls, ceilings or borders in the garden, learn what properties slaked lime has, how to prepare it correctly, calculate the solution consumption and apply it to various surfaces.

Lime is not the easiest material to use. However, it occupies its niche in the building materials market quite firmly and is very reluctant to give up its position. Considering all the advantages and disadvantages, in certain cases the use of lime whitewash is advisable, and sometimes it is more appropriate to choose another method.

Budget finishing material

Important properties of lime whitewash

The lime known to everyone from school is called calcium oxide in chemistry textbooks. For whitewashing, slaked lime is used, that is, it has reacted with water. Chemically speaking, slaked lime is a strong base - an alkali. It has good disinfectant properties, because an aggressive alkaline environment has a detrimental effect on fungus, insect pests and other unwanted living creatures.

Lime whitewash is not afraid of humid air, does not crack or bubble. In addition to resistance to high humidity, walls treated with this substance are resistant to temperature changes.

Fluff in powder form

For whitewashing it is not necessary to wash off the existing coating; it can be applied to the old finish. Moreover, if a network of small cracks has formed on the surface of the walls or ceiling, treatment with slaked lime solution will strengthen the finish and extend its service life.

The cost of lime for whitewashing in stores cannot be compared with the price of other finishing materials. This is due to the fact that the production process is very simple - it is a simple firing of limestone in a kiln. Raw materials cost pennies, so the price of the product is low. A thirty-kilogram bag costs about $2.

Where and why is it advisable to use lime?

The properties of antiseptic and fungicide make slaked lime a leader among finishing materials for damp and cold rooms: cellar, barn, garage, basement and the like. It is used for walls and ceilings. The weather resistance of the substance allows it to be used for whitewashing facades.

The record holders for using lime for whitewashing and other tasks are summer residents. Here it is applied in full swing. It is customary to whitewash walls both inside and outside, add quicklime to the soil to change it acid-base balance, treat tree trunks for protection from insects and animals, borders for beauty.

Trees are whitewashed from pests

In those rooms where practicality rather than aesthetics comes to the fore, and where the financial side of the issue is also important, lime solution is also used to cover walls and ceilings. This can be observed in the entrances, on staircases, V common corridors, foyer.

It is quite appropriate to whitewash the ceiling in any living space in this way. In schools, hospitals and other institutions, lime mortar is still used for wall finishing. After drying, calcium hydroxide becomes safe and does not release any harmful substances.

Entrance decoration

Buying lime - which one to buy and how much

Before going to the store, you need to find out what kind of lime to buy for whitewashing - slaked or quicklime, how much of it is required and what other components will be needed. This will save you from going to the construction market again if suddenly the solution is not enough or its properties do not meet your requirements.

How to make slaked lime with your own hands

As you already understood, extinguished and quicklime- completely different substances that are united only by a consonant name and the presence of calcium in the composition. For household repair work Slaked lime is used. It is sold by weight in any hardware store or department for Agriculture.

Kipelka - lump lime

However, there are often situations when the farm has quite large stock quicklime and it is advisable to use it rather than buy slaked lime. In this case, you can extinguish it yourself, especially since this chemical process does not require skills to carry out similar experiments in the laboratory.

So, how to prepare lime for whitewashing from lumpy quicklime. First you need to worry about personal protection. Since you will be dealing with a rather aggressive alkali, take care to protect your eyes (goggles), respiratory organs (respirator), and exposed skin (closed clothing and gloves). This must be done in the air.

Video: How to prepare a whitewash solution

You will need deep capacity, for example, a bucket and a mixing tool - traditionally a stick. The list of ingredients is also short:

• lump quicklime;
• water.

Quenching process

The water must be cold, this is the only condition. Even a first grader will remember the proportion – 1:1.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. For 1 kg of calcium oxide take 1 liter cold water.
2. Combine all this in a container and mix. Almost instantly you will be able to observe the beginning of a powerful chemical reaction with highlighting large quantity heat. When extinguishing, the mixture sometimes heats up to 150 degrees; it is not for nothing that the substance is popularly called boiling water - the solution literally boils.
3. When the reaction stops, heat and gas cease to be released, the lime can be considered “fluffy”, that is, slaked. However, it is not yet suitable for whitewashing.
4. The solution should ripen for 2-3 weeks under a lid in a cool, dark place.

Solution proportions and consumption per square

To start whitewashing with lime yourself, you need to prepare at least the following set of materials:

• powdered fluff or lime paste;
• water.

Packaging of fluff

In addition, various auxiliary substances are often added to whitewashing, which give it certain properties. The base solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3. For every kilogram of fluff, take 3 liters of water. As a result, 4 liters of solution can be prepared from 1 kg of substance.

The consumption of lime per 1 m2 during whitewashing directly depends on the type of surface on which it is applied:

• The largest consumption is about 1 liter of ready-made solution per square, which will be used when whitewashing untreated brickwork.
• A smooth prepared surface requires approximately 0.5 liters per square meter area.

Preparing the premises

Another criterion that affects consumption is painting tool. More often they use a regular flat brush or a round brush. These tools are wasteful, the mass is applied in a thick layer, and drips and drops can form. The spray gun can significantly reduce material consumption and operating time. Often, instead of a spray gun, a vacuum cleaner with reverse airflow and even hand-held tree sprayers are used.

How to calculate the amount of fluff and water

Before diluting slaked lime for whitewashing, you need to perform some calculations. An approximate calculation of consumption is as follows.

First you need to calculate the area of ​​the walls and ceiling that you plan to whitewash. For example: a room 3 by 5 m, ceiling height 2.5 m. It was decided to treat the ceiling and part of the walls from mid-height to the ceiling with lime whitewash.

Wall area: (3*2.5+5*2.5+3*2.5+5*2.5)/2=20 m2.

Ceiling area: 3*5=15 m2.

total area: 35 m2.

A solution of the required consistency

Based on the average consumption of 1 liter of solution per 2 m2 of surface, it is easy to calculate required amount for whitewashing - 17.5 liters of lime mortar. You can round up to 18, or better yet, to 20, because average consumption– the concept is quite flexible.

That is, 20 liters of solution are required, and this is 5 kg of slaked lime powder. It is worth noting that ready-made lime dough, which is sold in construction stores, is diluted according to the same proportion, which means the calculation is correct for him as well.

Whitewashing leaves marks

Supplements to improve durability and combat deficiencies

Since lime has been used in construction for a very long time, there are a lot of “ folk recipes"and methods that improve the properties of this substance. After all, modern water-based paints appeared not so long ago, and craftsmen were forced to practice chemistry right in their dacha or home.

The first problem that is solved by adding a secret ingredient to the lime whitewash solution is shallowing. A dried surface tends to stain everything and everyone who touches it. What to add to lime to prevent it from smearing? This ingredient is in every home - salt. It has a good bonding effect. Add 100 g of salt per liter of solution.

Salt - so as not to smear

Another problem, especially when using whitewash for exterior work, is that the composition is quickly washed off with water. It has long been known what to add to lime so that it does not wash off - a fatty component is introduced into it - drying oil. Drying oil repels water and allows whitewash to last longer. Proportion 1:10, 100 ml per liter of solution.

They practice adding laundry soap, grated on a coarse grater, PVA glue, wallpaper glue, acrylic primer. All this is done in order to ensure maximum adhesion of the whitewash to the wall, to prevent its swelling and bubbling.

Drying oil - so that it does not wash off

White is not the only color possible

To prevent the lime coating from becoming yellowish, an ordinary blue dye is added to it - methylene blue. You will need 10-20 g per liter. Whitewashed ceiling will become snow-white. But sometimes it becomes necessary to obtain lime mortar of other colors. This mass can no longer be called whitewash, and not every dye is suitable. Only those pigments that are resistant to an alkaline environment are used - mineral, but in no case organic.

Pigments used for lime paints:

• ocher ( yellow tint);
• umber (greenish brown);
• red lead (orange);
• mummy (red-brown);
• chromium oxide (green);
• titanium dioxide (white);
• lithopone (white);
• ultramarine (blue).

Pigments are used for preparation

To prepare lime paints good quality, it is not recommended to add pigment to pure form- powder. It is first diluted with water to obtain a paste. Then the pigment paste is allowed to infuse for about 24 hours. And only after this the dye can be added to the solution. This is because grains of pigments often do not dissolve well and can drag on the brush, forming unsightly streaks of color.

How to apply the composition to the surface according to all the rules

Instructions on how to whitewash walls with lime vary widely. The thing is that each master has his own recipe for a lime mixture, his own tool, and therefore his own technique. But you can try to combine the fundamental points into one algorithm. It will work out universal method, which everyone has the right to supplement or slightly adjust depending on the situation.

A roller is suitable for the ceiling

Is surface preparation necessary?

If the task is to quickly whitewash the walls and the decorative side of the issue does not really concern you, you can skip the preparation stage altogether. In fact, you can whitewash directly on top of other coatings without worrying that the result will not live up to expectations. But if the walls are covered with adhesive paint, then you need to remove it first.

If speed is not your priority, then it is better to prepare the surface for applying lime mortar. This way the result will be more accurate. The old whitewash is washed off, the swollen areas on the plaster are removed, sanded, and puttied. The same applies to cracks, if any.

Preparing the ceiling for whitewashing

Plain water is used as a primer. The surface is slightly wetted to better contact. And if the mixture contains one or more of the additives listed above, then adhesion will be even better.

It is important to protect all other surfaces from accidental contact with lime. All furniture, if it cannot be removed from the room, the floors and walls are covered with plastic film. The worker must wear a protective suit, gloves, goggles and a mask for personal protection.

A few secrets for uniform application

The application process is not particularly difficult. A brush or paint brush is dipped into a container of whitewash and the solution is applied to the walls or ceiling in a thin layer. For ceilings, it is better to use a tool with a long handle. You can make it yourself. This will make your work easier and eliminate the need to climb on unstable structures made from tables and chairs.

Direction of movement of the brush or roller

Apply whitewash in several layers - 2-3. Each layer must be applied perpendicular to the previous one. This way the coating will be more uniform and there will be no streaks or thickening. There are often unbleached areas in the corners. In these places it is better to go through the brush again.

It is necessary to maintain a time interval between applying layers. The previous layer must dry completely. This will happen much faster if the layers are thin. The thinnest and most uniform layer will be obtained when using an electric spray gun. Lime mixture is poured into the tank and sprayed onto the surface in tiny drops. This eliminates the occurrence of divorces.

Spray gun - a solution to many problems

Despite the fact that the process of whitewashing walls and ceilings with lime is not difficult, for those who are faced with this for the first time, it may seem like an impossible task. Especially if we're talking about O high ceiling or an extensive amount of work on large areas. It's never too late to turn to a master - a professional in his field. He can easily do this job efficiently and much faster than a beginner.

Video: Quick repair cellars

It’s rare that any renovation can be done without finishing the ceiling, because it is an integral part of the interior of the room. Innovative technologies manufacturing and installation of suspended and suspended ceilings, make them real works of art and unique in their kind. Nothing could be easier than whitewashing the ceiling water-based paint with your own hands without the involvement of qualified painters.

Painted surfaces may have the following defects:

• Stains and stains. They turn the walls and ceilings not only into an unattractive sight, but also make living in such an apartment unpleasant. In this case, cosmetic repairs are urgently required, or rather whitewashing of the ceiling old whitewash. The cause of stains and stains is violation or non-compliance technological process. Some people think that poor-quality paint is to blame for this, but it has nothing to do with it. Stains and stains are the result of the painter’s inexperience. And the cause of bubbles is the foam rollers. As practice shows, you can paint the ceiling using old paint without streaks and stains only with a long-nap roller.
• Stripes. They form on the surface due to insufficient paint on the roller. Before each painting, it must be carefully rolled out in a painting tray, generously saturating it with paint.

Another reason for the appearance of streaks is the uneven distribution of paint on both sides of the roller. If the paint is not mixed well, then stripes of different shades will form.

Whitewashing with water-based paint

Before painting any surface, you should make sure that it is perfectly flat and free of bumps, cracks and other defects. Painting the ceiling with water-based paint over old paint cannot be called difficult work. If you do everything according to the instructions, there will be no streaks or stains left.

First prepare the base. It is leveled, the recesses are sealed with putty, the bumps are removed with a steel spatula and covered with a primer. Usually old paint cleaned, but this is not easy to do. In this regard, many homeowners do not remove the old paint, but paint the ceiling over the old coating. If you choose the same color of paint, then everything will turn out beautifully and with high quality.

Before preparing the ceiling for painting, you need to remove everything that you can from the room, and the floors, Appliances And plumbing equipment cover with plastic wrap. If, after whitewashing the ceiling using the old whitewash, you plan to work on the walls and floor, then you should start with the ceiling.

Preparing the Paint

It is prepared as written in the instructions. The viscosity of the consistency is also indicated there. Most often, 10% water is added to water-based paint and mixed thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained. If the instructions do not say this, then no water is required and the paint is ready for use. However, the paint still needs to be mixed. The best tool For this type of work, use an electric drill with a special attachment.

If you apply the ceiling paint to the old paint with a spray gun, you will get a perfectly even layer without streaks, streaks or other problems. To obtain a colored solution use white paint with the addition of the necessary dye.

Step-by-step dyeing process:

1. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to whitewash the ceiling using old whitewash on their own. Practice shows that it is possible. Open a can of paint, stir and pour into a paint tray or other container. It should be convenient for rolling the roller. When rolling, it should be pressed to the bottom of the tray. This is necessary to ensure that the roller is saturated with paint completely and evenly. Only in this case there will be no stripes or poorly painted areas.
2. After the roller is evenly filled with water-based paint, you can begin painting. The main task here is uniform application paints on the ceiling. Even considering the inconvenience, this can be done without much difficulty. You need to be careful to roll the roller over all unpainted areas. Apply the first layer towards the window, the next - perpendicular to the first. At a right angle it is impossible to determine the uniformity of painting, so it is necessary to sometimes change the viewing angle by moving to the side.
3. You cannot apply the next coat of paint until the previous one has dried. If you decide to paint the ceiling in three layers, then it will take you three days. This is provided that the room is warm enough. Cosmetic repairs Usually practiced in spring and summer.

IN hard to reach places the roller is useless, so you'll have to use a brush. These are corners, joints, surfaces behind heating radiators and so on.
Painting the ceiling usually starts from a corner and then moves in any direction. If you don't rush, you will get the perfect coating.