Original cages for rabbits drawings. Cages for rabbits: drawings with dimensions and descriptions. Prices for various types of timber

The sizes of cages for rabbits differ depending on the age, breed, sex of the rodent and the purpose of the enclosure. There are standard sizes recommended for pregnant females. The location and compliance with the conditions of keeping the animal are very important.

Group structures are used for keeping young animals. Depending on the size of the enclosure, there are from 8 to 20 rodents in the cage. The animals are kept together as long as they have enough space. When the sex of the individual becomes possible to determine, the rodents are seated. It is recommended to keep no more than three individuals over three months old in one cage.

The minimum area of ​​the enclosure for two individuals is sq. m. Height - at least 0.35 m. The size of the structure depends on the number and age of rodents.

Enclosures for outdoor placement are built on one, two or three floors. It is recommended to raise the floor above the ground by 0.35 m. In winter, it is necessary to insulate the enclosures by adding straw to the floor.

Natural materials are used to construct the structure, since artificial ones negatively affect the health and development of rodents.

When designing, it is important to pay attention to the lighting and location of the cage. Young animals need protection from drafts and dim light. Adults tolerate cold and temperature changes better (depending on the breed). But for the winter, cages with young and adult animals are insulated.

Cage for adult rabbits

The size of rabbit cages depends on the age and sex of the rodent. Females with young animals are kept in large cages. For a regular rabbit, the cage parameters are 0.7 m wide, 0.6 m high and 1 m long.

For an adult, the size of the enclosure should be increased to 0.8 m in width, 0.5 in height and 1.5 in length. In dwellings of this size, rodents feel freer, develop faster and grow better.

Ventilation is considered an important stage when designing rabbit housing. The rabbitry should be well ventilated, protected from drafts and bright sunlight. The duration of daylight hours is from 8 to 16 hours. Attention should be paid to cleaning enclosures. Adults should be inspected during cleaning, and disinfection measures should be carried out in the cage.

Two-tier shed

- a two-story structure consisting of several cells placed in a row. The installation of such dwellings helps to save space and simplify the care of animals. It is recommended to use this type of outdoor maintenance in regions with warm climates or in heated rooms. Sheds are also installed outdoors in the summer.

It is important to build housing, raising it above the ground to a height of 0.5 m. The optimal dimensions of the structure are 2 m wide and 1 m deep. Two-tier sheds can be made independently using a one-sided type from boards, slate and metal mesh.

It is recommended to concrete the foundation to increase the stability of the structure. To simplify the care of animals, experienced rabbit breeders install manure channels and trays. This method makes cleaning easier and reduces the risk of disease.

Sheds allow you to keep several rabbits at the same time. Drawings created at the design stage can be used to create additional rows. All cells in a structure are created the same way. A canopy is installed over the sheds. The structures are installed close to each other.

In warm regions, shad keeping is possible all year round. In winter, water for rabbits is heated. The space between the cells is allocated for storing hay and grass. For feeding, waste-free systems are installed that need to be replenished every 3-7 days.

The bunker feeder is made independently from metal sheets. In the warm season, it is possible to use automatic drinkers. Transitions are installed at an angle to the exit. The back wall is solid. The cage has several windows with bars. In cold weather, windows are closed with wooden sheets or hinged doors. In the passage between the shads, a suspended structure is built for transporting feed.

Double cage with queen cell

For pregnant females, a spacious cage with a queen cell is required - a removable design for rabbits up to one month. The food part occupies most of the cage. A manhole is installed between the compartment. Such housing is intended for two individuals of different sexes or two females with cubs. It is recommended to install a slatted floor.

A cage for a female rabbit with a queen cell, the dimensions of which are 2.2 × 0.6 × 0.5 m, is made from natural material in compliance with all safety rules. Rabbits need comfort for reproduction, proper growth and development.

Double cages with mesh aviary

To build a structure with a mesh enclosure for walking you need:

• Mesh with large cells (3.5x3.5cm) – 0.6 sq. m.
• Lumber - 0.2 cubic meters. m.
• Metal mesh (1.8×1.8 cm) – 1.3 sq. m.

The aviary is used for non-pregnant rodents, adult rabbits, and babies older than 3 months.

Dimensions of cages for Zolotukhin rabbits

N.I. Zolotukhin’s cells are widely known among rabbit breeders. The distinctive features of the structures are:

• No pallets.
• Wooden or slate flooring.
• Inclined installation of rear walls.
• Near the back wall, a mesh is built into the floor.

The dimensions of the cage with the queen cell, which is also removed, are 0.7 by 1 m. To ensure the safety of the cubs, a board is installed in front of the door. The queen cell is located in a common cage, fenced off from the rest of the space with an additional board. It is possible to place the aft compartments one above the other. On the Internet you can find cages installed in 3 tiers, photos, sizes, drawings of which are also available to rabbit breeders.

There are also Maklyakov cells - modular systems in which the purpose of the cell can be easily changed. The design uses heated drinking bowls and modern waste removal systems. Infrared heating is used in the aft compartment.

Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits

The “giants” breed of rabbits is common among rabbit breeders who breed rodents for meat and skins. The cage for fattening rabbits of the gray and white giant breeds has dimensions: 0.35 × 0.6 × 0.4 m. If the amount of free space and materials allow, it is recommended to build more spacious housing, dimensions 0.6 × 0.95 × 0, 65 m.

Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits

The standard dimensions of fattening cages are: 0.5×0.7×0.3 m. Such structures are made from a mesh with square cells, connecting the parts with wire. Install drip or small feeders. During the fattening period, animals should be carefully cared for and observed.

Cage sizes for California rabbits

Unpretentious in content. Variety - a mixture of, and. The size of the cage for the Californian rabbit is smaller than the enclosures for giant rabbits. The variety is frost-resistant and can be kept without bedding. A dwelling with a feeding section is designed with a size of 0.4 sq. m. m. To keep one rodent, 0.3 square meters is enough. m. The hard hair on the paws allows rodents to be kept on mesh floors. In block structures, it is recommended to exchange animals of the same age category next to each other to simplify care.

Setting up a pit for rabbits is quite simple:

• it is necessary to dig a recess with parameters 2x2x1 m,
• strengthen the walls with slate sheets or concrete;
• put boards or mesh on the floor;
• construct a fence and a canopy on the surface.

It is recommended to monitor rabbits to prevent mating of close relatives, as this worsens the performance of the animals. Availability of water and food is required, as well as regular preventive examinations of rodents.

California rabbits are fed dairy products, fish and meat meal, and nutritional protein supplements. The variety is gaining popularity among rabbit breeders due to its ease of breeding, quality of fur and meat. Female rabbits give birth to 6–8 young rabbits, sometimes in a litter of up to 12 babies.

Optimal cage sizes for rabbits

The standard dimensions of a farm rabbit hutch are 1.5 x 0.8 x 0.5 m. It is recommended to install a mesh door and a mesh insert in the floor.

A cage for a decorative rabbit must be at least 0.9 m in length and 0.7 m in width. At the same time, the animal has enough space to move and play. The height of the cage is determined by the “growth” of the animal.

Housing of the same dimensions is arranged for a dwarf rabbit. Be sure to install comfortable drinking bowls and feeders, and add toys to your pet so that he doesn’t get bored.

Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits

A distinctive feature of industrial structures is the ability to add new elements without changing existing ones. The modular design has dimensions of 2x2x1x7m. Uterine sections are also built in. For convenience, springs and manure removal systems are installed on the covers. Lifting lids help with cleaning, feeding, removing babies from cages, inspection and mating.

Thus, when selecting a cage for pets, you should pay attention to the animal’s age, gender, breed, and climatic conditions. When keeping rodents on a farm, multi-tier structures installed in several rows are recommended. You should also remember about equipment - feeders and toys for pets.

You can not only buy cages for breeding rabbits, but you can also make them yourself. The main thing is that the “home” for furry animals is as comfortable as possible, then the animals will grow quickly and gain weight well. Cages for domestic rabbits come in a wide variety, to suit every taste and budget.

What should the design be?

There are a huge variety of cells available for sale. The design can be either single-tiered or consisting of two or more tiers. Here are the basic requirements for the design of any dwelling for rabbits:

Cages consisting of several tiers have another name - “sheds”. Sheds intended for breeding, keeping young animals and adult animals have minor differences in design. But the general principle remains unchanged: the space is divided into zones using cells separated from each other by partitions. The number of tiers depends on the number of rabbits. Additional insulation is placed on the bottom. All wooden elements and accessories must be made from the strongest types of wood so that animals do not chew them through.

When choosing industrial cages, you should not purchase European houses; preference should be given to domestic ones, since other breeds of rabbits are bred in Europe, and housing for animals is made according to different standards. It is better to buy simple housing designed for Russian livestock farmers, or to construct cages yourself, for example, using the Zolotukhin method.

The size of the cage for rabbits is calculated depending on the breed and number of livestock.

Types of cells

It happens that a person has long decided to breed rabbits, but cannot choose a place to keep them. A novice rabbit breeder can easily become confused by the abundance of different types of cages. As a rule, the following varieties are used on Russian farms:

• Cages intended for breeding females;
• Premises for raising young animals until they reach sexual maturity;
• “houses” for adults;
• Premises equipped with an enclosure with the possibility of walking;

Each species has its loyal supporters. Also, completely special cages are made for animals belonging to the Giant and Californian breeds. Depending on who exactly the home is intended for, the cells have different sizes and different internal structures. You can make a cage of any kind yourself using drawings and diagrams from the Internet. Also, good ideas for beginning rabbit breeders can be gleaned from old Soviet magazines “Homestead Farming”.

Author's cell designs are also very popular. Among them, it should be noted cages made according to the Mikhailov method and housing for animals “according to Zolotukhin”. These cages for rabbits are much more convenient and compact than store-bought ones.

Cells designed by N. I. Zolotukhin

Cages developed by N.I. Zolotukhin are very popular among domestic farmers. Here are their main distinguishing features:

• The animal housing consists of three tiers;
• There are 6 rabbits living in one cage;
• The floor is made of wood or slate, there is no mesh on the floor, and there is also no tray;
• The mother liquor can be removed and moved from place to place.

Animal houses made according to this model are compact, inexpensive, and can be easily made with your own hands from scrap materials. They are also very easy to clean, which makes caring for your animals much easier. Such “houses” would be appropriate both on a small farm and on a farmstead with a large livestock. Making cages using the Zolotukhin method at home will not take much time if you have basic carpenter and carpenter skills.

Cells designed by N. I. Zolotukhin

Sheds for rabbits

Translated from English, the word “shed” means barn. A shed, in essence, is a structure of two to three tiers of cages installed under one common canopy. Here are the main features of the shads:

• Base made of metal or durable wood;
• Mesh cells;
• Dimensions 60x3 m;
• Automatic supply of food and liquid for animals.

One shed is designed for 500 individuals, but if the rabbit breeder builds it with his own hands, the dimensions may be different, it all depends on the number of livestock. Shad provides good protection from wind and sun; in cages of this type it is easy to maintain the required temperature and humidity. This is a truly universal home, suitable for both young animals and adults.

Important! If the shad is located on the street, the canopy must be especially strong so that street dust does not get into the houses.

Aviaries

An aviary is, in fact, not even a cage, but just a place fenced with a chain-link mesh. But, despite its many advantages, the enclosure also has a serious drawback: in enclosure conditions, animals can quickly become infected with dangerous infections from each other. However, many farmers consider an enclosure to be the most convenient home for furry animals. In order to make an enclosure, it is not necessary to search the Internet for drawings and diagrams; it is enough to drive pegs around the perimeter of the area and cover the area where the animals are kept with a strong mesh with small cells. But still, sheds for rabbits are better than enclosures, especially in regions with cold climates.

Awnings

Many rabbit breeders successfully keep their livestock under a shed. The canopy allows you to keep animals in the fresh air, but at the same time the rabbits will be reliably protected from rain, wind and sun. The following requirements apply to the canopy:

You should also provide in advance the possibility of ventilation and protection from drafts, since rabbits catch cold easily, and a draft can cause mass death of livestock. The design of the canopy should be the simplest, but reliable. You shouldn’t look for industrial-made canopies on sale, since making them yourself will cost much less.

Bunk cages

If the livestock is small, cages consisting of two tiers are well suited for keeping animals. Below are their main features:

To make it easy to remove droppings, you can create an additional gap between the two “floors”. A litter tray is placed in this gap. If the house for rabbits will be located in a garage or shed, it is enough to cover it with a chain-link mesh. If the cage will be placed on the street, it must have solid walls. The outside of the tree can be treated with a composition that is resistant to moisture and mold. Structures consisting of two tiers are suitable for keeping rabbits of any breed, including giants. The main thing is to clean the premises regularly, otherwise the animals will often get sick and may die.

On a note! Two-tier dwellings are also suitable for keeping nutria.

Cages for rabbits with queen cell

During the calving period, females require increased attention. At this time, female rabbits can be aggressive, so they should be kept separately. For this purpose, special cells with queen cells are used. The design of such a house is by no means original and represents a kind of “nest” for a mother and newborn children. The little rabbit should feel as comfortable as possible. They differ in the following features:

• The room is equipped with a separate area for giving birth and feeding the cubs;
• Sawdust is suitable as insulation. The main thing is that they are out of the reach of animals;
• If the cell is spacious enough, the queen cell is placed inside;
• If the cage is crowded, a cobblestone base is attached to the front wall, which is then covered with mesh.

In regions with cold weather, an additional heating source can be installed under the floor. The main thing is compliance with fire safety rules. If the female is kept outdoors, the cage must have a canopy. Inside, it is desirable to have a complete absence of metal parts and accessories.

If a farmer needs a cage for a female rabbit with a queen cell, the size of the home depends on the “dimensions” of a particular female. The main thing is that the rabbit should feel spacious and not cramped.

Cells with queen cell

Materials for making cells

To make a home for rabbits with your own hands, you can use almost any material. Which material to choose depends on the financial capabilities of the farmer. Plastic will be the cheapest, metal and wood will be more expensive. At the moment, domestic farmers prefer the following options:

• Wood combined with chain-link mesh;
• Polycarbonate, which is also used for greenhouses and greenhouses;
• Metal;
• Plastic.

If a metal mesh is used in the design, it must be secured using slats made of wood or plastic.

Important! All parts made of wood that are inside the cage must be free of sharp corners and jagged edges so that the animals cannot injure themselves. Do not use flammable materials, such as certain types of plastic.

Wood or mesh is usually used for the floor. Wood retains heat well, and mesh floors are easy to clean. Metal is not used to make the floor, otherwise the animals will be cold. If animals are kept outdoors, wooden walls can be galvanized for insulation and as protection from moisture.

How to choose a grid

Rabbit netting is one of the main expenses of a new farmer. Choosing a mesh for making a “house” is not easy. Here are the basic requirements that must be met:

• The strength of the material from which the mesh is made;
• Small cell size;
• The mesh must be securely fastened;
• It is advisable that metal fittings are not used for fastening.

Important! Chain-linking is not used to make the roof, because even the smallest cells will let precipitation in.

The mesh is used not only for finishing walls and fencing enclosures, but also for making floors. Thanks to the mesh floor, droppings will easily fall through the cells, making cleaning much easier.

It is better to buy cage mesh in specialized stores for livestock breeders and farmers.

Features of cell location

Rabbits are quite vulnerable animals, so their health and development largely depends on where the cage is located. Here are the basic requirements for the place where animals are kept:

If all the above requirements are taken into account, the animals will grow well and gain weight quickly. Also, cages and enclosures should not be located in close proximity to where dogs are kept, since rabbits are shy animals, and dogs have a pronounced hunting instinct. If the dog suddenly breaks free from the chain, he will certainly want to feast on rabbit meat, so you should not deliberately provoke the dog by placing animals near him.

For those who are just starting to breed furry rodents, it is best to use industrial cages. More experienced farmers can easily construct simple houses on their own, using available materials and drawings.

Keeping long-eared animals has long been practiced by industrial farms and ordinary people who have decided to organize a small farm on their property. Keeping furry animals is a pleasure, as they do not require constant attention and are quite easy to care for. For the business to be successful, you need to provide the animals with comfortable living conditions. Today we will tell you what rabbit cages you can make with your own hands.

When choosing a place for the future residence of animals and installing their cage houses, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected territory.

Cages for eared animals can be placed:

• on the street;
• indoors.

Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located in the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in winter, animals will not survive outside without shelter. If you and your rabbits are planning to live in just such a fertile place, consider the following rules.

1. The level of air humidity that rabbits tolerate well has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically endure a greater percentage of it; they will begin to waste away and get sick. Based on this, the place to install the cages should be dry, located far from bodies of water, preferably on a hill.
2. There are recommendations regarding sun exposure as well. Eared animals like to bask under them only in cartoons; in life, this will only bring harm and lead to widespread diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from falling on the cages, install them in the shade of garden trees or arrange canopies. If rabbit breeding is your life's work, you can plant a bush fence that will scatter the sun's rays, letting them pass through.

During insulation, pay attention to those cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits.

Requirements for indoor housing for rabbits

Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits

Building a comfortable hutch for rabbits is less than half the battle. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read on to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what are the differences in the methods of keeping them.

Let's start building

Before starting construction work, you need to correctly select the materials that will be used in the process.

Necessary materials

When creating housing for rabbits, it is better to give preference to natural materials in order to bring the keeping of animals as close as possible to natural conditions. Therefore, as a basis for the cells, it is necessary to choose high-quality wooden blocks, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.

Additionally, to build cells we will need:

• boards and quality wood;
• thin plywood;
• fine-mesh welded mesh;
• wooden slats, 3-4 centimeters wide;
• metal wire of medium thickness;
• wide plastic trays according to the size of the cells;

It is best to line the inner surface of the cage walls with plywood, as it is a moisture-resistant and strong material. Chipboard, for example, is not suitable for such a purpose, since it absorbs moisture and collapses due to swelling.

What types of cages are there for rabbits?

All rabbit cages are built according to some general principles, however, they still have differences. All the nuances of construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cages being built. There will be at least several species in your household, and here's why.

As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of future residents. However, for each of them there are general construction instructions, which vary depending on the goals. Let's start looking at it.

Important nuances

Before we announce the instructions themselves, let’s discuss some important points. The standard dimensions of a spacious rabbit hutch are:

• 120-170 centimeters in length;
• about 50 centimeters in height;
• 70-80 centimeters wide.

As a rule, if the cell parameters change, only the length is reduced. The height and width remain standard, since these are the parameters that are most comfortable for care.

Mixing rabbits of different genders in the same cage is prohibited, as this can lead to:

• uncontrolled matings;
• difficult to track pregnancies;
• fights between males for the attention of females;
• fights of females for the attention of males;
• strangling of each other's offspring by warring females.

Instructions for building a rabbit cage yourself

So, let's move on to the step-by-step instructions for building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared animals, consisting of two sections. Adults will live in one of them, and pregnant queens with offspring will live in the second. For a while, until you have a nursing female with cubs, you can put houses for rabbits in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when they are in a bad mood and want to take a break from their furry roommates.

Let's start building.

Step 1

Take the prepared wooden beams and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent the tree from rotting and the penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structure, which can subsequently ruin the health of the eared animals.

Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle as possible and not contain large amounts of chlorine, which burns wood and destroys its structure. This is important because the cells are used mercilessly and it is necessary that they last a long time.

Step 2

Take a wooden beam prepared ahead of time and saw it so that you get parts with the following parameters:

• 4 beams of 1.5 meters each;
• the same number of bars 55 centimeters each;
• two pairs of bars 70 centimeters each.

Instead of four bars 55 centimeters long, you can make only two and two more 35 centimeters each. The smaller ones will be installed as frame pieces for the back of the cage where we will place the queen nest.

Step 3

Connect the shortest and half-meter beams together to create two identical shapes. If the parameters of the bars for the frame of the front and back of the cage are the same, then you will get a rectangle; if they are different, you will get a trapezoid.

Step 4

Now connect the rectangles together using pieces of wood 70 centimeters long. You should end up with a wooden frame structure that resembles a large box in shape.

Step 5

Let's start installing the floor. It can be made from several different materials. We present a comparative table of the pros and cons of each of them.

A good solution would be to use combinations, for example, the first layer can be made from a metal profile welded in the usual way, without small and frequent holes. The second layer is made of fine mesh. The profile will prevent it from deforming and this floor will last a long time.

It is impossible to make a non-mesh floor in the main compartment, since animal feces will pass through the holes and accumulate in the tray under the cage.

Install the selected material on most of the future floor of the cage and secure it with fasteners. Leave 40-50 centimeters blank

Step 6

The remaining unfilled space under the floor must be made of wood and solid, since the rabbit’s nest will be located there. It is best to screw a board to the beams, which must be well sanded so that the animal does not get injured. At the junction of the cells and the board, screw in a metal strip and weld the mesh to it.

Step 7

Let's start covering the walls. The back one is also made from boards polished and impregnated with gentle antiseptics. The front one is made of mesh so that you can observe what your pets are doing. Leave the ceiling unclogged.

Step 8

We line the plank walls from the inside of the cage using plywood. The material must be multi-layered and of good quality. The thickness can be any, but you don’t need to take a very thick sheet so as not to make the structure too weighty.

You can fasten plywood using self-tapping screws or nails. The main thing is that the sharp part of the nail does not come out and does not injure you when caring for the cage.

Step 9

We are building a roof. To do this we need a sheet of plywood and hinges, like on doors or cabinets. First, we screw the hinges to one of the upper beams of the frame, then we plant a sheet of good plywood on them. Here it is better to choose a thicker material, because the roof of the house will constantly rise and fall. Make sure it fits snugly. If there are large gaps between the frame and the roof, harmful drafts cannot be avoided.

If it was not possible to fit the lid to the frame tightly, do not despair. Take some felt or padding polyester and cover the perimeter of the roof. This can be done even if there are no cracks, since in winter such insulation will be useful for long-eared ones.

Step 10

At the junction of the wire mesh and the boards, install a board that goes from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. Make a medium-sized hole in advance so that the rabbits can move freely from one cage to another.

Step 11

Place the cages on supports that have been previously installed in the rabbitry. Now, mount the tray from the bottom of the cage. It can only match the size of the mesh part of the floor, since the feces of the rabbit and baby rabbits will not leak through the wooden floors.

Step 12

Now install feeders and drinkers inside the cages. You can also make them yourself from wood, in the form of small troughs. Be sure to find a place for hay as well. Some rabbit breeders place it in homemade hanging structures so that rabbits can reach it and at the same time not trample it, turning it into bedding.

Now that you have learned how to make the simplest version of rabbit cages, let's turn our attention to other popular options.

Family cage

The family home for long-eared animals no longer consists of two, but of three sections. A breeding male with good quality characteristics of health and appearance is settled there. Females live in the side compartments, and males live in the middle compartment. Between the rooms there are manholes, this time with valves. This is necessary so that at the moment one of the females is ready to conceive offspring, release her to the inseminator, and then do the same with the other rabbit.

This option for constructing cages is considered very effective for breeding purebred animals, as it allows you to sort out suitable individuals in advance and track upcoming pregnancies.

Construction Features

Let's name some points in building cells from three sections that will help you during construction.

Cages for rabbits in two tiers

The construction of a two-tier rabbit hutch structure is not too different from a single-tier one. Such a structure will have the following parameters:

• height 2 - 2.5 meters;
• width 1.4 meters;
• Along the edges of the structure, every 10 centimeters are allocated for the installation of feeders.

The dimensions may vary depending on your idea, but making the cage smaller is not rational.

Construction instructions

So, let's start building a two-tier cage.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Exactly the same as in the first instructions, we connect the bars to make four frame frames. Each of them will serve as the bottom and top of two cells. We also saw off eight bars of equal height for the corner parts of the cellular “skeleton”.
	Step 2. Making floors for cages. The larger part, as in the case of a single-tier structure, will be mesh, the smaller part will be solid, made of boards. We leave a small distance of about 10 centimeters at the back wall, where we will place a drain for animal waste. This distance should be covered with a dense mesh with cells larger than the main one for the floor.
	Step 3. The back wall is made of boards, then lined with plywood on the inside. The side and front walls are also equipped with mesh with medium-sized cells.
	Step 4. Using slats and metal plugs, we separate the inside of the house for the eared compartments, leaving between them space for a hay barn in the shape of the English letter “V”.
	Step 5. We attach metal sheets to the waste disposal compartment that go to the tray under the cage. Each cage has its own collection of excrement and is installed so that it can be pulled out and cleaned. For the upper tier it is placed on the ceiling of the lower one, and for the lower one - on special corners of the stand, mounted in the holding frame for the cages.
	Step 6. We equip the roofs for each of the tiers from plywood, reinforced with felt or thick linoleum.

To make it possible to care for caged animals, make the back wall or roof hinged.

Video - Cage for rabbits, self-building

Cell according to the Mikhailov method

Today there are many popular methods of breeding eared animals. One of the most effective is Mikhailov’s mini-farm. The features of the mini-farm are as follows. It allows you to obtain a large number of healthy offspring and raise them into productive, mature individuals with minimal attention from the farmer.

The design features of Mikhailov’s mini-farm make it possible to achieve the following positive effects.

Cell cleansing occurs without human intervention. And we are talking not only about animal feces, but also about food waste containing harmful fumes. Rabbits do not inhale them and remain healthy. Due to the fact that such a high level of hygiene is maintained inside the rabbit houses, insects that carry the infection do not fly inside, since they simply have nothing to profit from.

Adding food and adding water to the feeders occurs once a week. Yes, now you are freed from the need to constantly monitor the presence of these batteries in the cage of your charges every day. The fact is that the feeders constantly fill themselves as they eat food from the feeders. Another plus is that in winter the water in the drinking bowls is automatically heated.

Areas for pregnant and newborn rabbits with their offspring are also heated in cold weather, which allows animals to crossbreed all year round and ensure the health of newborns.

The internal structure of the cell is as close as possible to natural conditions, which provokes the activation of instincts in animals. Thus, the queen cell reminds an animal of a hole, since it is located below the main level of the cell, and the entrance to it actually imitates a rabbit hole. The ceiling in the nesting compartment is slanted, as if this really is not a cage, but a long-eared dugout.

Open areas of the wall alternate with closed ones so that rabbits can get privacy and take a break from attention from humans or other animals.

Mikhailov's cage is also equipped with folding doors, which allow you to pick up a baby rabbit unnoticed by the rabbits or, on the contrary, add them. This is necessary when a litter is too small or too large for one individual. If there are too many cubs, the mother may kill or eat several alive. In this case, it is necessary to remove the baby and transfer it to the queen who gave birth to the small offspring.

The part of the cage that is installed to the north is insulated. The south side, on the contrary, is equipped with ventilation so that fresh air enters the houses. The roof is equipped with a pipe through which gases from animal excrement are emitted. Feeders and drinking bowls are sealed to prevent waste from getting into them.

Design Review

The area of ​​each cell is 1.4 m2. Up to 25 heads fit inside. The main element of the structure is a shed - a barn consisting of several tiers of rabbit cages in one or two tiers. Such a shad can contain 70 houses. If we take this number as a basis, then queens will live in 35 of them, and adult males and young rabbits will live in the rest.

It is customary to make about two rows of cells, together occupying 8.5 m2. These cells have only one roof.

Implemented Mikhailov cage

The shelf life of Mikhailov's mini-farm is about 20 years. Then it will have to be renewed or completely replaced with a new design.

Necessary materials

We warn you that if you do not have sufficient experience in construction, it is easier to purchase a Mikhailov cage. But if you are confident that you can handle it, stock up on the following materials:

• sheets of plywood;
• paint;
• nails;
• roofing iron;
• wooden beam;
• boards;
• roofing felt;
• Fiberboard soft and hard;
• picket fence

Assembling the stand

Assemble the stand by carefully examining its image in the photo. The horizontal section of the stand will contain a support part for a homemade transformer compartment, as well as shelves for tools and a bench. A rectangular manhole is also installed here, leading from a sealed tank to a bunker for collecting excrement, which flows into it along the shaft walls. The shaft is covered with fiberboard and roofing felt, resistant to frost and moisture.

Walking area and nests

Two pairs of posts are mounted on the stand, the cross-section of which should not exceed 10 centimeters. The tier below will rest on them, consisting of several compartments in which rabbits are caught for inspection or are deposited.

The walking area is equipped with a drinking bowl and feeding trough. In its lower part there is a hole measuring 20 by 20 centimeters, which goes into the shaft. The floor is laid with a picket fence laid on slats, which are covered with strips of metal to protect against rodents. The flooring is made at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nesting compartment is equipped with a hinged door that folds open to create a free area for interacting with the rabbits. The location of the bottom of the queen cell goes down relative to the level of the main floor by 9 centimeters. The outside walls of the house for mothers and babies are insulated with any available materials. The entrance to the compartment is also insulated. To arbitrarily overlap it, install a view.

Drinkers and feeders

The drinking bowl is represented by an automatic structure. The water trough itself can be anything, be it a plastic bowl or a wooden one. This bowl contains outlets from several 5-liter canisters. Centimeter holes are drilled in each lid of the canister so that the water drains down gradually and only when the rabbit has drunk enough so that the trough does not overfill.

What size the area of ​​the drinking compartment will be directly depends on the capacity and size of the canister itself, as well as the trough. The door to the compartment is made of a sheet of plywood and metal. One edge of the watering trough must be hidden from rabbits in order to install a small electric boiler there, which automatically starts working when the air temperature drops below +8°C.

A feeder is installed next to the drinking bowl, into which mixed feed in granules is poured. It is installed in a small gap between the parts of the flooring, in which the disposal device is located. It contains waste - crumbs and flour, as well as pellets trampled by rabbits. And from there they roll into the recycling bin.

The feed bowl for roughage is located at the top and bottom of the farm. From the outside of the cage, a tank is suspended from it, in which hay and vegetables are placed.

Installation of the upper tier

The upper tier can serve as a mother and jigging level. In the first case, it is made at an angle, in the same way as described above. In the second, they are divided into two sections of different sizes, into which small rabbits will then be placed.

The length of the upper tier is 25 centimeters longer than the lower one. A drinker and a feeder are also installed in each section according to the methods described above.

Roof

The roof is made sloping, and a pipe is installed on top of it to ventilate the premises. This pipe is necessary to remove from the cell accumulations of harmful fumes that are released during the life of eared animals.

Bottom part

At the bottom of the cage there is a box into which rabbit droppings are poured. This allows animal excrement to be used for gardening purposes and eliminates the need for the farmer to constantly clean the cages of feces.

The Mikhailov cage is an effective option for rabbit breeding business. This design requires minimal labor and time from the farmer. So, it takes about half an hour a week to care for the animals - to fill the feeders, drinkers and clean the trays. Long-eared animals kept in such a farm gain in three months of their life such weight that rabbits in normal care can only gain in 6-8 months.

Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina

Another famous farm concept for efficient rabbit breeding. Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin studied the life of rabbits in natural conditions from an early age and, in the prime of his career, developed this amazing structure that increases the efficiency of raising rabbits by activating their natural instincts.

The Zolotuha cage farm has three tiers and is quite simply made. Let's start looking at the instructions for making it.

To build a cell, we need:

• wooden beams;
• boards;
• metal grid;
• sheet iron;
• high-quality polycarbonate;
• slate.

Construction instructions

So, first of all, let’s determine the dimensions of the future cell:

• the width of the rabbit's home is 2 meters;
• height of the structure – 1.5;
• the depth of the structure is no more than 80 centimeters;
• rear floor slope - 5 centimeters;
• the mesh at the back wall occupies 20 centimeters;
• the doors are made in the shape of a square with 40 centimeters in length on one side.

Let's start building.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Cell scaffolds are assembled using a method already familiar to you. Each of them is divided into two equal halves, between which there is a small distance to accommodate the hay barn.
	Step 2. This time, for the floor, not mesh is used, but durable slate. When laying and attaching slate sheets to the frame, calculate that you need to retreat 20 centimeters from the back wall. This space is covered with a welded mesh, through which the feces of the long-eared animals will be discharged.
	Step 3. Now let's start making the walls. The back walls are made of carbonate sheets at a specific angle. The upper part of each wall is mounted to the end of the slate floor of the next highest tier. At the very top tier it is straight. Thanks to this design, rabbit droppings roll along the walls of each of the tiers and eventually fall into the tray.
	Step 4. We make a door for the queen cells and feed compartments. In the first case, we prepare it from wood and insulate it to create the necessary conditions for the rabbits. In the second, we make it from mesh.
	Step 5. Nests for summer maintenance are also made with mesh walls. They are separated from the remaining space by a board partition, which can then be removed to create a spacious cage for young animals. Winter queen cells are wooden, with closed walls. The entrance to it is also wooden, with a closing hole, the lower part of which is in contact with the floor. Hay is spread on the floor.
	Step 6. We make feeders. These devices are a tray that occupies most of the wall of the cage located in front. The feeder is inserted into the cage only one third, its bottom is made at an angle. This is necessary so that the feeder can be filled from the outside without opening the cage. A drinking bowl is also installed inside.

Zolotukhin cells are famous and have been successful for many decades. Their simple production makes them popular, and their rabbit-breeding effect is amazing.

Cages for dwarf rabbits: step-by-step instructions

Not only farmers, but also those who have chosen this cute animal as their pet can make a cage for a rabbit. Of course, it is easier to buy such a structure, but it costs a lot of money, which can instead be spent on buying vitamins and food for the eared ones.

Making a house for a rabbit with your own hands will take very little time and will not require serious labor costs.

Step 1. Assemble the frame for the cage according to the mechanism described above. This time the frame parameters will be as follows:

• length – 1 meter;
• the height of the bars for the rear wall is 55 centimeters;
• the height of the bars for the side walls is 70 centimeters;
• frame width – 70 centimeters.

Step 2. Assemble the frame so that there is a distance of 15 centimeters between the lower end of the back wall and the future floor.

Step 3. Nail wide wooden slats to the bottom of the cage or install a welded mesh made of a metal profile. This support is needed to give rigidity to the future mesh floor. When the slats or profile are installed, install fine mesh on top.

Step 4. Make walls for the cage. The back one can be made of plywood or boards, and the rest can be made of metal mesh with medium-sized cells. Make one of the walls also plywood or wood and cut a hole in it for the door.

Step 5. Make the door from a wooden frame and metal mesh and place it on the hinges to the hole.

Let's sum it up

Now you know many of the most popular ways to build rabbit cages. The choice of the option that suits you will be based on the following nuances:

• starting budget;
• rabbit breeding experience;
• region of residence;
• size of livestock, etc.

The main requirement is high quality design

For example, cages using the Mikhailov mini-farm method will help to minimize labor costs and loss of time for caring for animals, however, it is very difficult to place this serious structure inside a barn, which makes the use of the structure in regions with long cold winters almost impossible. In addition, the equipment of such a cage requires money and construction experience. Beginning rabbit breeders will not benefit from spending so much money, especially if they are not sure that they will want to keep rabbits for many years.

Zolotukhin's cages do not require large financial expenditures, but they imply that the number of rabbits contained in them will not be small. Therefore, this option is not entirely rational for farmers starting to engage in the rabbit business.

Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making a comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.

What materials can it be made from?

When planning the construction of rabbit hutches, the first thing to think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, any available means are suitable for constructing a simple structure that can protect animals from unfavorable external factors.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage

Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. You should not lose sight of the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood: in winter a wooden rabbitry will be warm, and in summer it will not be too hot.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so the wooden elements of the interior of the cage are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated with protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill

Metal is a more durable material for construction compared to wood. Rabbits cannot chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent the natural material from being chewed through. But it is not recommended to make the roof and outer walls of the cage out of metal, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.

Galvanized profile

Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat

Plastic pipes can be an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cages for use in any conditions.

When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal structural elements that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from fragments, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.

Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.

Bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Net

The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be a mesh, which should have medium or small cells and be strong enough.

Slate

The most practical material for making a roof for a rabbit hutch is slate. It will perfectly perform its protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.

Available materials

Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers to contain rodents, or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties that can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings if you plan to use them.

Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage

There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the optimal parameters will be the following dimensions:

• Length - 120–150 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 60 cm.

In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult individual. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.

The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which falls through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If the floor covering is made continuous, then it will have to be cleaned too often.

To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:

• Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
• Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
• Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
• Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
• Fittings - door hinges and latches;
• Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for work:

• Hand saw or grinder;
• Metal scissors or wire cutters;
• A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
• Tape measure, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits

The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instructions

1. Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
2. The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
3. The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made from plywood.
4. Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
5. At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, a cage for decorative rabbits must have an open part.

The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. Animal comfort is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.

The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. The ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).

Required tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:

• Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the dimensions of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
• Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
• Wooden slats;
• Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
• Self-tapping screws or nails;
• Door fittings.

Tools for work:

• Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Screwdriver or hammer;
• Nippers or metal scissors;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits

The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.

Manufacturing instructions

1. The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. A base measuring 90x60 cm is cut out of chipboard or a wooden panel.
2. A metal shield of similar dimensions is placed on a wooden base.
3. Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
4. The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
5. The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. The optimal size for the door is 30x30 cm.
6. The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
7. The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. You should not paint the surfaces of the cage with paints and varnishes, as rodents can be poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.

Video: do-it-yourself two-story rabbit cage

Design Features

All rabbit cages are designed using general principles, but different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm simultaneously contains several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds.

Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should select suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

Rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) require special housing conditions, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents

Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:

• Length - 120–170 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 50–60 cm.

Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:

• Length - 70–90 cm;
• Width - 35–55 cm;
• Height - 30–50 cm.

Giant rabbits will need much more space:

• Length - 85–100 cm;
• Width - 70–80 cm;
• Height - 60–80 cm.

Multi-tiered cells

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous keeping of a large number of rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.

Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:

• Capacity;
• The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
• It is convenient to care for animals;
• Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on the purpose

If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.

Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

• Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
• The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
• A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding the mother;
• The cage for young animals meets standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and time of year

The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer requires different types of cages. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.

In regions with a temperate climate without sudden temperature changes, it is possible to keep rabbits year-round in the same portable structures, which are moved indoors when the first cold weather sets in. In the summer, such cells are again moved to the open air.

Choosing a location for installation

Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity well, so in the open air a place should be chosen that is remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct sunlight can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cells.

Do not forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.

Arrangement

Feeder options for rabbit hutches

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.

Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.

The flooring for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. The best options are sawdust or absorbent textile diapers.

How to crate train a rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough

In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If a rabbit hutch is not constructed correctly, has sharp interior edges, is small in space, or is located in a noisy environment, the animals will experience stress that will adversely affect their health and reproductive performance.

Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business in rural areas. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and advice from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for his rabbits.

For successful keeping and breeding of rabbits, it is very important to choose the right cage for them, because the well-being of the animals and their ability to reproduce directly depend on its structure and type of material. Good, warm and comfortable housing is the key to a pet’s good health and good weight gain. There are two options - buy a ready-made cage in a specialized store or make it yourself. It would seem that the first option is easier and simpler, but it is preferable to do it yourself, taking into account all the necessary dimensions, depending on the expected number of individuals and the breed of pets. Having decided to breed rabbits, it is important to decide on the place where their cage will be located.

First of all, you need to take care of protecting your pets from cold wind and sunlight in the summer. Ideally, it is better to make the roof removable, this will facilitate the process of disinfecting the cage. So, how to make cages for rabbits with your own hands: all dimensions and drawings are presented below.

Types of cages for keeping rabbits

The main types of cages, mainly used by rabbit breeders in practice, are presented in the list below:

• a cage with an enclosure for walking a rabbit;
• standard cells with and without queen cell;
• a cell built according to the method of I. N. Mikhailov;
• cell according to the method of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Each cell has a standard base - walls, floor, ceiling and frame, door. Let's take a closer look at cell types.

An example of a drawing of a two-section cage for rabbits can be seen in the photo below.

Regular cell (with or without queen cell)

A standard cage, usually on high legs, with a mesh floor and tray, with two compartments separated by a partition with the ability to move from compartment to compartment. They provide a nest for the female rabbit and a place for feeding. The entrance to the cage is closed with doors. The high legs of the structure allow maximum protection of animals from moisture and drafts; they are usually made about half a meter. The mesh floor will allow the waste products of the rabbits not to linger in the cage; with the help of a tray, everything can be easily removed and the animals will be clean. Such cells can be found very often; they require minimal costs and a small amount of materials. Often designs with a mesh floor are used when breeding, since the paws of this breed of animal are resistant to damage.

Cage with aviary for walking rabbits

It is an ordinary cage (discussed above) made of a wooden frame, often on legs, with an enclosure attached to such a cage for walking.
Considering the mobility of pets and their love for an active lifestyle, having a place to walk has an extremely positive effect on the health of rabbits and improves their reproductive qualities. During the summer months, it allows the animals to enjoy fresh grass and soak up the morning sun. It is necessary to take into account all the details so that pets cannot escape from the enclosure and cats or mice do not get into them.

Do-it-yourself cages for rabbits: drawings according to Zolotukhin

The main difference between such a cage and other designs is the following: it does not contain a queen cell for the rabbit. It is assumed that the best option would be if she chooses a suitable place for herself. The feeder and sippy cup are located above the front door. These cages do not have a tray or mesh floor; instead, only the back side of the structure is covered with mesh.

A small metal mesh is used. Analyzing the behavior of rabbits, you can notice that they relieve themselves at the back of their homes. These cages are built using slate or planks. To make the frame and partitions, boards up to two centimeters thick are used. The floor and roof are made of slate; in the absence of slate, they are made of the same boards as the cage frame. Wooden surfaces are covered with thin sheet metal.

Let's look at the construction of such a cell step by step:

The first floor of the structure should be located at a distance of fifty centimeters from the ground to protect rabbits from moisture and cold. The cage frame itself is made using four two-meter beams; the finished width of the frame should be two meters, and the depth should be eighty centimeters. Thus, three floors are built.

1. The floor of each floor must be inclined at a slope of five centimeters towards the back of the cage to allow animal feces to drain off. Each floor is divided into two halves by wooden slats, the distance between them should be about thirty centimeters; in the future there will be a hay barn. The walls of the structure are made of wooden planks. Each floor is half covered with boards or slate, the resulting gap is closed with a fine mesh.
2. The back wall must be made of moisture-resistant material; polycarbonate is a good choice; it can withstand fairly high humidity without deteriorating or rotting. The grid of the upper floor ends and a polycarbonate sheet is attached to it at an angle.
3. It is convenient to make caged doors that are common to all floors; metal hooks are attached to the doors.
4. Additionally, each floor can be equipped with side doors for fattening; bolts must be attached to each door.

Considering that rabbits love to chew everything and are good at it, each inner corner is lined with metal for protection.

The roof of the cage is made in such a way that it protrudes forward from the common part of the frame by at least five centimeters on all sides, in order to prevent rainwater from entering the room with the pets.

Cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method

Rabbit cages using the Mikhailov method are the most complex and expensive, but at the same time the most convenient to use. They provide for a unified system of rabbit waste, heating of the queen cell with baby rabbits and a female rabbit, separate shelves for animals and a ventilation system. Their main feature is their sectionality - they include from two to four separate sections with a single compartment for collecting rabbit waste.

The first cages of this type were designed for two adult animals, improved designs are designed for several teenage rabbits or two rabbits expecting offspring. There are two-tier and single-tier cages. The construction of a cage of this type is tied to the cardinal directions; for protection from cold winds, the back wall is made blank and placed to the north. Apart from the back, the other three are made of mesh material. The mechanism for heating the queen cell must be turned on, and ventilation of the premises is provided.

The floors of the cage using the Mikhailov method are made of slats laid diagonally. To simplify the design, such cells are conventionally divided into three parts:

• the upper one, consisting of one or two tiers;
• the lower part is a sealed part for collecting manure;
• stand-up

Thanks to the stand, the entire structure is fixed to the ground; without it, the cage can tip over. The total height of the legs is 140 cm; additional beams are installed at a distance of 40 cm from the ground for maximum strong fixation. Feeders and drinking bowls for rabbits are located inside the building, queen cells are in the center. To make such a design with your own hands, you must have the correct drawing with exact dimensions. The dimensions of the cage made using this method are relatively small; for two adult individuals, the total area of ​​the structure will be 1.4 square meters. The height of the building is 210 cm, the width of the sections is 80 cm, the height is 70 cm. The angle of inclination of the lower section is 45 degrees. The sippy cup in the cage can be installed in any size, depending on the size of the section in which the pet lives. Let's consider the principle of constructing such a cage for four adult rabbits. The animal feeder is 15 cm long, 12 cm wide, and 30 cm high.

So, in order to make this design with your own hands at home, you must have:

• bars;
• slats;
• boards;
• metal mesh;
• automatic drinking bowls for pets;
• queen cell heater;
• box for animal feces;
• staples;
• self-tapping screws;
• stapler;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• nails of different sizes and a hammer;
• sheet iron;
• material for protecting internal corners;
• slateruberoid.

Let's look at the construction of such a cage step by step. As an example for a detailed description of construction, let’s take a single-tier cage with three compartments. Having understood the principle of the method, it will not be difficult at all to complete the upper floors. We assemble the cage frame in accordance with the required dimensions and drawings.

1. We start building the frame from the frame, then we build the cage itself and lay the floor in it diagonally with slats. Separately, we prepare the doors for the cage and install them, not forgetting the latches.
2. We install automatic drinking bowls for animals inside the living quarters, and hang pre-prepared drinking bowls outside (also made in accordance with the dimensions of the drawings).
3. The queen cell for the female rabbit and the little rabbits is separated by a partition in which there is supposed to be a door for exit. Do not forget that the queen cell should be as dark as possible for the comfort of newborn rabbits.
4. We make a roof, strengthen the slate with self-tapping screws.
5. We make a sloped surface for manure in the shape of a rectangular funnel. A container is installed under the funnel to collect waste and waste products of rabbits.

An important point in such cages is that little rabbits are not separated from their mother. They are constantly with her in a heated queen cell and have the opportunity to receive mother’s milk for as long as possible, which significantly increases the animals’ immunity.

Mikhailov’s method is based, first of all, on the fact that rabbits do not have direct contact with humans; for them this is a very serious stress. The idea of ​​such an automatic house, where pets have round-the-clock access to a feeder and water bowl, has achieved incredible results. Rabbits living in such cages practically do not get sick, reproduce well and gain weight very quickly. There are even four-month-old individuals weighing up to six kilograms.

Video. DIY rabbit cage