October at the dacha: what needs to be done in the garden. The main schedule for autumn work in the garden: October and November October. Seasonal work for gardeners
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At the beginning of October there are several urgent tasks in the garden, the implementation of which is the key to good growth and development of plants next year. Have time to do everything!
Although it has gotten colder, and outside the window it is raining and windy, the autumn garden is still beautiful - variegated asters and chrysanthemums, scarlet chokeberry, fire marigolds and tender octobers replace the sun in the garden plot. And when the weather gets a little better, the gardener, throwing on his jacket, arms himself with either a pruning shears or a shovel - there is still a lot to do in October.
Before the snow comes, you need to prepare the area for wintering.
Planting trees and shrubs
The best time for planting deciduous trees and shrubs with an open root system is from the end of September to October 15. It is better to plant in holes prepared in advance and filled with fertile soil and fertilizers (preferably 2-3 weeks in advance), since by the time of planting the soil has time to settle and the fertilizers have mixed and dissolved.
Good survival rate of seedlings will be ensured by the use of root or heteroauxin when planting. To protect new plantings from freezing (in case of unexpected severe frosts), it is advisable to mulch the tree trunk circles with peat chips or bark after abundant watering.
Planting tulips
If the second half of September is the time for planting small bulbs, then October is the time for tulips. According to a pre-developed planting plan, they begin to lay out the bulbs in the flower beds, and then plant them. It is better to plant using a scoop or a special planter to a depth of about 10 cm.
Plant pruning
There are a number of plants that do not tolerate spring pruning (for example, maple, birch, actinidia). It is better to prune them at the beginning of October, since by this time the plants have stopped sap flow, they are preparing for winter, and there will still be time for wounds to heal before the onset of stable frosts.
After leaf fall, you can trim currants, gooseberries, and raspberries. At this time, they begin to rejuvenate the raspberry bushes, removing the fruit-bearing stems.
Autumn digging of tree trunks
The best time to complete this work is the beginning of yellowing of the leaves, that is, before active root growth in the fall.
The depth of digging under trees is 8 - 10 - 20 cm (to the level of suction roots, which is determined by control excavation according to the projection of the crown), and under bushes - 5 - 8 cm. Digging the soil reduces the number of pests that overwinter in the soil. Once on the surface, they die from frost.
Feeding
As a rule, digging up tree trunk circles is combined with the application of fertilizers. Most often this is done in September and early October. Fertilizer application rates depend on the type of soil, crop, age and condition of the plantings.
Organic fertilizers are applied at the rate of 4 - 8 kg of humus or compost per 1 square meter. meter of area. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are also applied: 30 - 40 g of superphosphate and 15 - 20 g of potassium nitrate or potassium salt.
On acidic soils, lime is added before digging at a rate of 150 - 300 g per square meter. meter or wood ash - 300 - 500 g per square meter. meter.
Pre-winter watering
In autumn, the root system of trees and shrubs begins to grow intensively, and good watering is required for normal root growth. It is carried out, as a rule, in the second ten days of October, taking into account, of course, weather conditions, as well as the proximity of groundwater.
However, when choosing the timing of watering, you need to consider the following. If October is warm, then it is necessary to shift these dates to a later date, since a large amount of moisture in combination with good, warm weather can have the opposite effect - the buds will begin to bloom, the secondary growth of young shoots will begin and the winter hardiness of the plant will sharply decrease.
Watering is especially important if there has been a dry summer and early autumn. Abundant watering is carried out to a depth of 50 - 60 cm, when the average daily temperature drops +5 - +2 C. It is called sub-winter.
Pre-winter watering is of great importance, since a large amount of moisture in the soil prevents it from freezing quickly, thereby improving the wintering conditions of plants, minimizing deformation of the root system and providing a sufficient amount of moisture in the spring.
Autumn spraying of plants
- if there were fungal diseases on the trees and bushes, and also to prevent them, then it is a good idea to spray them with a 6 - 8% solution of ferrous sulfate;
- Spraying branches, trunks and soil under trees and bushes with a 1% solution of copper sulfate will also help against fungal diseases;
- if there was scab on the fruit trees, then they are sprayed after picking the fruits, but before the leaves fall, with a 4% urea solution.
Collecting fallen leaves
Fallen leaves must be removed from both the lawn and the orchard. Leaves should not be left on the lawn, as the grass begins to deteriorate under the leaves with the onset of autumn rains.
If the foliage is healthy, then it can be composted, but if there are signs of fungal diseases, then it is better to burn such leaves. In an orchard, carrion must be destroyed, since it is a source of infections in the area.
Lawn care
As a rule, the last mowing of the lawn is carried out on October 15 - 20, depending on the weather, the mowing height should be 1 - 3 centimeters higher than usual. You should not let the grass go unmown in the winter, since during the winter the dead parts of the plants will cause the appearance of rot, mold and other fungal diseases.
However, it is not recommended to mow the grass just before frost to avoid weakening it. After mowing, it is necessary to comb the lawn, thus removing dead felt, which interferes with the growing season of plants in winter.
Garden Decor Ideas for October
A bright pumpkin will be especially noticeable on a garden bench under an empty tree.
Large stones and boulders are mysterious in early spring and late autumn. Trimmed grass around will only emphasize their monumentality.
In a garden gazebo: throw a handful of bright beads or pebbles onto a flat plate, place a couple of apples nearby - a simple still life will lift your spirits on a cloudy day.
mauritianlife.com
October is one of the best months for a holiday in Mauritius. At this time, the hot season begins there and there is no rain, at least in the northern and western parts of the island. So you can bask on the beaches, swim in the warm Indian Ocean, dive, surf and admire Mauritian nature in its very bloom.
- Air temperature: 26–27 °C.
- Water temperature: 22–25 °C.
- Visa:
- Cost of living: from 938 rubles per night.
- : from 113,277 rubles.
sancristobalgalapagos.gob.ec The Galapagos is another great island destination for an October getaway. There, as in Mauritius, the weather is warm and dry at this time, but most importantly, the unique nature of these places is still in all its glory.
The “peak” season for birds and fish lasts until the end of October, but there are noticeably fewer people on the archipelago. Therefore, you can safely snorkel and dive and simply explore the islands, almost the entire territory of which is a national park.
- Air temperature: 25–27 °C.
- Water temperature: 23°C.
- Visa: .
- Cost of living: from 881 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 22,671 rubles.
tio.by Although the Canaries are considered a year-round resort, it is better to go there for a beach holiday in the summer or not too late in the fall. October is perfect: the ocean is still very warm, which means you can swim and lie on the sand all day long. Depending on the island, it can be black (volcanic), yellow or white.
The easiest way to get to the main island of Tenerife: direct flights depart there from Moscow.
That is why there will be many compatriots (and tourists in general) there. The second most popular island among holidaymakers is Gran Canaria. For a more secluded getaway, head to Lanzarote (and be sure to visit the local volcanic national park with alien landscapes) or relaxed Fuerteventura, an island favored by windsurfers thanks to its steady winds.
- Air temperature: 20–23 °C.
- Water temperature: 18–19 °C.
- Visa: not required within 90 days.
- Cost of living: from 514 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 11,661 rubles. But you can save on buying tickets if you use Aviasales.
agenttura.com.ua Hot and crowded Istanbul empties out by mid-autumn, and the temperature in the city drops to very comfortable. So at this time you can explore the ancient city and its surroundings without fuss.
If you are a connoisseur of contemporary art or have a passion for design, there is another reason to head to the Turkish capital. This is the Istanbul Design Biennale. It will take place from September 22 to November 4.
Of course, only the bravest will be able to swim in the sea. But it’s quite possible to drive along the empty coasts, sunbathe and maybe get into the water on a particularly nice day in October.
- Air temperature: 27–31 °C.
- Water temperature: 26–27 °C.
- Visa: not required within 90 days.
- Cost of living: from 974 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 20,355 rubles.
tel-kohnhed.com October is ideal for visiting Israel: there is no longer any sweltering heat, and the water of all three seas washing the country warms up to a very pleasant temperature. You are free to choose any coastal city for your vacation, but Tel Aviv will be one of the best options. There you can swim and experience the cultural and nightlife: after all, this is the entertainment capital of Israel.
In addition, Jerusalem is located approximately 60 km from Tel Aviv. It, along with other ancient attractions, is worth visiting in October, when there is not yet such an influx of pilgrims as in winter.
- Air temperature: 14–20 °C.
- Visa: Schengen
- Cost of living: from 1,836 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 12,593 rubles.
wallpapersdsc.net October in Paris is eventful. Firstly, the culinary capital is hosting a large-scale gastronomic event - Taste Week. During it, tastings of French food, master classes and themed days are organized: holidays of choucroute, spices, cider and fish. The week ends with the chestnut festival, which is celebrated on a grand scale throughout the country.
If you are going to Paris primarily for taste, put a separate line in your budget for this.
Assume that you can have a snack within 10 euros, but a full lunch or dinner will cost 20 euros or more.
- Air temperature: 17–22 °C.
- Visa: Schengen
- Cost of living: from 1,542 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 15,793 rubles.
umbriaon.it Another grand culinary festival takes place in Perugia, Italy. The period from October 18 to 27 is the time of the Eurochocolate chocolate festival, when sweet tooths and chocolatiers from different countries come to the city.
The program is rich: there are shows, the creation of chocolate sculptures, festivities, and, of course, fairs and tastings where you can try chocolate products of all kinds. If you decide to attend a holiday, take looser trousers: you will probably need them.
- Air temperature: 10–17 °C.
- Water temperature: 13°C.
- Visa: Irish or British.
- Cost of living: from 1,102 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 7,933 rubles.
universestars.com Dublin is another European destination worth visiting in October. In the first half of the month, the Irish capital hosts an annual theater festival, and towards the end - the Bram Stoker Festival, dedicated to the creator of the Gothic novel "". Of course, at this time the city is filled with a vampire atmosphere; thematic performances, film screenings and parties are held at various venues - just right before Halloween.
From Dublin you can also go north to Belfast, where an international art festival takes place almost all month, or south to Cork, where a traditional jazz festival takes place in late October.
4. Delhi, India
- Air temperature: 30–33 °C.
- Visa: Indian, you can get it online. Dashahra.
- Air temperature: 0–10 °C.
- Water temperature: 7–11 °C.
- Cost of living: from 500 rubles per night.
- Cost of flights from Moscow and back: from 20,032 rubles.
The celebrations last almost 10 days, this year they start on October 8. At this time, Indians have fun, exchange gifts and perform a number of beautiful rituals.
Do you dream of seeing the city filled with colors, light and fireworks? Then go to Delhi. Although the celebrations will take place in all corners of India, so no matter where you find yourself during this time, you will not be able to hide from the beauty.
bayarbaikal.com In October, the weather on Lake Baikal is relatively comfortable, but there are practically no people due to the end of the tourist season. At the same time, golden autumn works real miracles with Baikal nature. If you are a photographer, a romantic, a mushroom picker, or just a person tired of the bustle of the city, then here you will definitely be able to fully experience.
You can stay very close to the lake, for example in the village of Listvyanka, or in the busier Irkutsk - and make forays into nature from there. It is better to take care of excursions in advance (after all, it is the end of the season, the programs will be cancelled), but at the beginning of the month many of them are still available.
October is one of the autumn months, which is very important for residents of the Moscow region and the rest of Russia, for preparing their cottages for wintering. In order to work fruitfully and profitably at this time, you need to know in advance what to do and make a special list of things that you must do at your favorite summer cottage. Of course, few people want to work with soil in cold and sometimes rainy weather - many prefer the warmth and comfort of home.
But on the other hand, the most hardworking and resilient will be rewarded in the spring, when the leaves begin to emerge and it will be possible to plant vegetables. By the way, some crops can and even should be planted in October! What to do at the dacha in October and what to plant in October we will consider in this material, useful for any summer resident.
What to plant at the dacha in October?
From September 20 and (if the weather is good) until October 20 is the most suitable period for planting seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs. This is an excellent time to replant raspberry and currant bushes (for the purpose of renewal).
Sowing vegetables before winter
October is a great time to plant vegetables before winter. During the winter they will sleep well under the snow cover and emerge together in the spring.
In addition to garlic, you can plant a bed of early carrots so that you can enjoy them with a crunch in the summer. In a greenhouse or under glass you can plant early radishes, radishes, head lettuce and lettuce. Glass will protect the plantings from sudden spring frosts and retain the necessary moisture in the soil.
You can sow winter onions. To do this, select special short-day varieties that form bulbs during short sunny spring days. Currently, there are such hybrids as Radar F1 and Ibis F1.
What should a gardener do at his dacha in October?
Rosemary outdoors must be covered or brought into a warm room for the winter.
Cover perennials and biennial flowers, if necessary, with lutrasil.
Check dahlia tubers overwintering in the house regularly; Throw away wilted, rotten and diseased plants immediately.
It is worth planning the layout of ridges and flower beds, choosing compatible and suitable flowers.
After the first frost, dahlias must be dug up because their stems and leaves will immediately turn black.
To do this, you need to dig around the bushes in a circle, trying not to damage the tubers. Gently shake it off and clean the tubers from the soil. Then we trim the stems at a height of ten centimeters from the base. We make the cut just above the lignified area.
Dahlia tubers are washed with a stream of water and dried in the sun for several hours or a couple of days indoors.
For winter storage of tubers, a room with good ventilation, an air temperature of +3-8 ° C and a humidity of about 60-70% is required. In apartment conditions, dahlias can be stored on a warm glazed balcony. The nest of root tubers should be placed in a bucket and covered with a mixture of sawdust, sand and peat.
What should a gardener do at his dacha in October?
Removing young shoots
We recommend using pruning shears and an ax to remove the wild growth that has formed over the summer near mature fruit trees. If you do not do this, then in the spring it will quickly perk up and absorb many useful substances that adult specimens would need to plant a new crop.
Protect tree trunks by whitewashing so that their bark is not damaged by frost cracks in winter.
In October, leaf fall begins and therefore it is necessary to remove fallen leaves in time and burn them so that pests of apple trees and other trees cannot overwinter in them.
What should a gardener do at his dacha in October?
Leftover vegetables
In October, the first frosts begin and therefore those vegetables that you left to ripen in the garden require additional protection. We recommend covering these beds with film or lutrasil to protect the roots in case of sudden frost.
Harvesting vegetables
Cucumbers and tomatoes are finishing bearing fruit. Beets and carrots have grown. It's time to harvest vegetables. But what vegetables should be removed first?
We harvest, first of all, those vegetables that are afraid of frost. These include cucumbers, tomatoes and beets.
Frost-resistant crops such as horseradish, carrots, pumpkin and cabbage are the last to be removed from fields and dachas.
After the onset of frost, horseradish should be dug up. At this time it contains the maximum amount of nutrients.
Digging the soil
Since the soil was depleted after the next harvest, it should be fed with potassium fertilizers. They need to be added immediately before digging. Loosened soil in the fall will collect much more moisture and help nourish plant seeds in early spring.
Apply fertilizer and loosen the soil. It is better not to break clods of earth to improve air flow.
What should a winegrower do at his dacha in October?
The grapes are harvested, and therefore it is possible to treat the bushes with drugs against pests and diseases without any problems. The bushes must be trimmed, bent to the ground and covered with fresh spruce branches or peat. Grape bush cuttings must be removed from the dacha or burned.
What should a summer resident do in October?
Work in the greenhouse
In October, after harvesting vegetables, in the greenhouse you can dig up the soil and treat the glass and frames of this structure with phytosporin or copper sulfate. After finishing the cleaning, you can light the FAS sulfur bomb and tightly close all the cracks and doors with vents. This procedure will protect against the spread of dangerous fungal diseases, for example, late blight.
Preparing inventory for storage
After the summer season, it is likely that some of the gardening equipment was scattered around the site and broken. Therefore, it is worth conducting an autumn audit of your instrument. Make a list of missing tools so that you can purchase the necessary things over the winter or spring.
The remaining tools should be cleaned of dirt and stored.
Dig up soil for seedlings
It's literally worth digging the soil into buckets. To have something to grow seedlings in. Many even experienced summer residents forget about such a trifle and then rack their brains about where to get soil for seedlings.
Compost heap care
Collect tops and plant stems into a compost heap. Treat them with urea solution. Cover the top with roofing felt or thick film.
In the fall, gardeners and gardeners have an incredible amount of work. It is necessary to finish harvesting, prepare the garden for the winter cold, and lay the foundation for a successful start to the next spring season. For each autumn month there is a specific work schedule and a long list of things that need to be done. However, it is worth considering what climate zone you live in. Indeed, in some regions, all garden work ends in October, when in zones with a milder and warmer climate the last harvest is still being harvested during this period, and the final cleaning of the beds and preparation of the garden for the cold is carried out in November.
What to do in the garden in the fall
With the onset of autumn, the hot season continues for summer residents - it is necessary to collect the remaining harvest and prepare the site for winter. In order to carry out all gardening work correctly, novice gardeners should first consult with experienced colleagues, read relevant literature, and watch videos with advice from experts. This is a very important time, since next year’s harvest depends on the proper preparation of trees, shrubs and land for the cold season.
September
In generous and warm September, there is especially a lot of work in the garden, because harvesting and processing of the harvest is in full swing. And besides stockpiling supplies, we need to begin some preparatory work for winter. In addition to twists and preparations for the winter, this month you should:
- cover leafy garden crops with film to extend the harvest season;
- collect seeds;
- plant spring bulbous flowers such as hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, etc.;
- autumn fertilizing of the lawn;
- trim perennials and shrubs.
October
The onset of golden autumn adds more work to collecting fallen leaves. In October, it is worth taking care of replanting fruit bushes, rejuvenating the orchard, and pruning dry and diseased branches. At the end of the month, all bulbous plants need to be mulched with humus or peat. This is also a huge amount of work.
To make wintering easier for garden plants, the soil around perennials should be loosened and fertilized. It is also necessary to take care of the lawns: it is worth removing weeds, loosening and leveling the soil. In the garden, you should collect and destroy the tops, and dig them up after harvesting.
November
The last month of autumn closes the gardening season. During this period there is also no end of work. All diseased branches should be trimmed, trunks should be cleaned and whitened. Remove fallen leaves. Collect and destroy pest nests from bare branches.
In November, the harvest ends, and areas of the garden that have not yet been dug up are dug up. The period of collecting and preparing for the next season of fruit seeds is coming to an end. The final work is being carried out to prepare the flower garden for winter.
Basic work in the garden and vegetable garden in October
In October, the dacha plot delights with bright colors and the last harvest, while work continues in the garden in preparation for wintering. There are a lot of different jobs that need to be done this month.
- Sow seeds of cold-resistant annuals, such as cornflowers, poppy, calendula, etc., to ensure their early flowering;
- Replant those trees and shrubs that have already lost all their leaves;
- Take care of the garter, trench, supports, frames and shelter for roses, chrysanthemums and hydrangeas;
- Engage in division and layering for faded perennial plants and shrubs that have shed their leaves;
- If necessary, dig up the rhizomes of dahlias, cannas and other perennials after the first frosts;
- A month and a half after the end of flowering, it is necessary to dig up the gladioli;
- Approximately three weeks before the expected frost, plant winter garlic;
- Planting decorative onion bulbs, crocosmia, lilies;
- Mulching the soil and pruning bushes and perennials;
- Constant collection for humus of falling leaves.
In the garden:
- Prepare the soil for spring work;
- Collect vegetable tops;
- Dig up the garden;
- Add fertilizers to the soil: manure, ash, phosphorus, potassium, etc.;
- To protect from frost and better warm up the soil in the spring, the finished beds should be covered with black film;
- To prolong the harvest, cover leafy garden crops from the first frosts with a transparent film;
- Clean and disinfect greenhouses.
Attention! In addition to these gardening works, you should not forget about preparing your country house for your long absence. It is necessary to clean drains and pipes, collect and store country furniture in a shelter.
November calendar for gardening
In order to finally prepare the site for wintering and ensure a successful start to the new spring season, the following work must be carried out:
- Finish cleaning the garden and vegetable garden;
- Replant shrubs and trees that require replanting;
- Trim bushes;
- Mulch the soil around bushes and perennials;
- Plant garlic and tulip bulbs;
- Make protective shelters for plants from hares and other pests;
- Do the necessary work in the garden to propagate perennial plants by layering and division;
- Collect the remaining fallen leaves for humus;
- If the house has a fireplace or stove, collect ash for fertilizer and mulching;
- Make and install feeders to feed birds in winter.
Preparing a country pond for winter
In the whirlwind of preparatory work in the garden for winter, one should not forget about preparing an artificial reservoir, if there is one, for the cold season. To do this you need to do the following:
- Start thinning the water flower garden. This procedure is carried out in case of impassable water thickets, and if floating plants have begun to occupy too much of the surface of the pond. To do this, you need to cut the plants at the very base with special scissors.
- Remove all leaves that have fallen during the fall from the pond and clear it of algae.
- In warm regions, new plants can be planted in the coastal zone in the fall;
- There is no need to remove all water from artificial reservoirs. But it is necessary to make the mirror area a little smaller. In order not to deform the bed of the reservoir, its bottom should be covered with plastic bottles of water.
Attention! If an artificial pond is inhabited by fish, it is strictly forbidden to drain it. With the onset of cold weather, fish hibernate.
The summer season has come to an end, but, my dear summer residents, this does not mean at all that we can now relax and sit back. You will be drinking tea with jam and looking at summer photos in winter, but for now you need to prepare for it.
In the garden in October there's still a lot of work to do. We are slowly preparing the beds so that we can just sow them in the spring. If you have been planning to plant trees or bushes all summer, but have just acquired them, plant them, don’t delay.
But in the mode of chronic time pressure, you can (and this is sometimes more correct!) bury the seedlings. This way they will survive the winter well, and in the spring you can plant them in pre-prepared holes.
This is better than making all the mistakes and dooming the plant to a difficult winter. And in general, don’t do everything in a hurry, think through the planting and work in advance, because it’s more expensive to redo it later. In general, we still need more than one fine day to work in the garden and in the garden.
At the beginning of October, the warm days of golden autumn can still please us with their bright bliss. This is the time when leaves fall from the trees and cover the cooling earth with a lush, warm carpet.
And at the end of the month, “manna” from heaven is already pouring into the beds. And then even the most persistent summer residents will want the comfort of home.
The summer was generous, there was enough warmth for us, the flowers, and the harvest. And now we need to have time to prepare the areas for winter so that frost does not spoil the bushes and trees or destroy perennials.
So what do we need to do so that the new season will please us with an excellent harvest and make sure we don’t miss anything?
October - “Garden Month”
There is a dance of falling leaves in the garden. How wisely nature works! To prevent the roots from freezing in the ground, the trees themselves make sure that they are at least a little warmer.
From this observation, you and I, dear summer residents, can draw a very useful conclusion: before the arrival of winter, it is good to cover perennial plants with a feather bed of fallen leaves. Birch foliage is best suited for this.
If you have not yet completed them, hurry to do them in the first half of October, because frost is just around the corner.
Harvesting the last harvest of apples and pears of late varieties
To preserve them longer, we collect the fruits dry, immediately after the dew has subsided, and always with the stalk. We carefully inspect the harvested crop and place all the fruits that do not have mechanical or other damage in boxes lined with paper, sprinkle with sawdust, or you can wrap each fruit in parchment paper or paper napkins, which will significantly improve the storage mode, since if any If the fruit rots, it will not infect the rest.
I advise you to first place the boxes with fruits in the barn, and only then, with the onset of cold weather, move them to the basement, where they will continue to be stored at low positive temperatures.
If we immediately put apples and pears taken from the tree into storage, then due to the temperature difference the fruits may become sweaty and the likelihood of their spoilage increases. It is best to place boxes in the basement when the temperatures in the basement and outside are equal.
Early October we are finishing the harvesting of chokeberries. Its berries make excellent jam, as well as jams and juices.
We are also finishing cleaning remontant raspberry varieties.
The last fruit crop to be harvested is quince., since it ripens quite late - only in mid-October. It is inedible fresh because the pulp is very hard, but there are still lovers who really like it, especially for its unique aroma.
But from quince you can make processed products that taste amazing: preserves, jams, marmalade, juice with pulp.
Fruit tree seedlings in the nursery
We continue planting fruit trees and shrubs, but we try to complete it before mid-October, since plants planted later are at risk.
Autumn is the best time to buy planting material. At this time, mass digging of seedlings takes place in all nurseries, so in the fall there is the most diverse and large assortment of planting material and, accordingly, the best opportunities for selection.
For the spring, only the planting material that could not be sold in the fall remains.
If you are planning to rejuvenate or expand your garden, then purchase seedlings now, in the fall. Winter-hardy varieties of apple trees, raspberries, currants, and gooseberries are best planted in a permanent place immediately. And it would be better to dig up seedlings of other less winter-hardy fruit crops for spring planting.
Many amateur gardeners still prefer to buy seedlings in the spring because they do not know how to properly preserve them until spring. And it's not that difficult.
To ensure that the seedlings are well preserved until spring, bury them in your area, choosing a well-warmed, high place that will not be flooded with melt water either in spring or in winter during thaws.
Then, in the selected area, we dig a ditch in the direction from east to west, about 50 cm deep and 100-120 cm wide (dimensions depend on the size of the seedlings).
We make the southern wall of the ditch inclined, and put the excavated earth on the northern side. We lay the planting material obliquely in one row, so that the entire root system and a third of the trunk are in the groove.
The crown should be oriented to the south. This arrangement greatly reduces the risk of the stems of seedlings getting burns from the bright sun in February-March. Gently spread the roots along the southern sloping wall of the groove.
Just remember to write down the sequence of varieties and the quantity of each variety in the direction from east to west. Then in the spring you can easily determine the varietal identity of each seedling. To be on the safe side, you can also hang a thick foil label on each seedling with the name of the variety embossed on it.
Now you can cover the seedlings with soil, pressing it firmly to the roots. If the weather is dry at this time, then the soil should be well watered.
General lawn cleaning
Winter is the hardest time for the lawn, so we will try to prepare it well for the cold weather.
If after the last cutting the grass has grown a lot, then it is necessary to trim it, but not too short, leaving a height of 5-8 cm.
Sprinkle the seeds onto the resulting “bald patches”. The ants will not have time to take them away, and in the spring the seeds will have time to sprout before the first cutting.
Be sure to feed the lawn with potassium fertilizers, thanks to which our lawn can safely survive even severe frosts.
There is no place for fallen leaves, grass felt and debris on the lawn, so we take a frequent rake and thoroughly “comb” your lawn.
If the autumn was too rainy, then it is necessary to pierce the turf with a pitchfork to the maximum possible depth. This is done in order to drain excess water into the lower layers of the soil.
Otherwise, as soon as frost hits, the wet lawn will be covered with an ice crust, and by spring unsightly bald spots will form on it.
October pruning
There are plants that do not tolerate spring pruning well. These are many berry plants, including actinidia, in which sap flow begins early in the spring.
Therefore, it is better to prune them at the beginning of October, since by this time the plants have finished all their vital processes and are ready for winter. But there is still time for wounds to heal (before the onset of stable frosts).
We talked about pruning currants, gooseberries, and raspberries in previous articles, so now we’ll learn how to do annual pruning of actinidia. Actinidia pruning procedure:
first we cut out all the thin and broken shoots, and then the weak ones that thicken the crown;
we remove 1-2 vines that have been bearing fruit for 3 years, cutting them down to a powerful branch of a young vine located lower to the ground;
we shorten the vegetative shoots to the required length when they occupy the free space intended for them on the support;
we prune generative-vegetative shoots that form on last year’s growths to 30 cm in length;
We evenly distribute all the shoots remaining on the vine on the trellis, so that in the future they can grow freely and diffused light passes through them in a leafy state.
Work in the garden
Gardeners try to complete all seasonal work by mid-October, because not everyone had enough time in September to cope with harvesting and preparing the garden for winter.
Harvesting late vegetables
At the beginning of the month we dig up the remains of cauliflower, and then, after the Intercession, late white cabbage. We cut down the heads of cabbage and take them away from the garden.
If frozen water and ice are found at the top of the leaves, then remove the covering leaves, dry the heads of cabbage and store them.
And if there are pockets of rot, fill them with a mixture of sand, slaked lime and chalk. After white cabbage, we begin harvesting late Brussels sprouts. To preserve Brussels sprouts better and longer, it is recommended to dig them up with their roots and bury them in the basement in a large deep box in damp sand or hang them upside down on a crossbar. The temperature in the basement must be maintained at +1...+2 degrees.
Having allocated the cabbage for storage, we return to the site and dig up all the stumps with roots remaining in the ground. Don't leave a single root in the ground!
And the point here is not only the cleanliness of the area (although this is also very important), but also the fact that cabbage fly larvae overwinter on the roots of the cabbage. And if we don’t remove the stumps, then in the spring, as soon as the ground thaws, these larvae will warm up and begin a feast on the same roots, unnoticed by us summer residents.
And in June, as soon as we plant fresh cabbage seedlings, they will be attacked by young cabbage flies that have just emerged.
We dig up radishes, parsnips and celery, and small root vegetables of parsley and celery can be left until winter, so that in early spring you can have fresh herbs on your table.
At the end of the month we collect Jerusalem artichoke tubers. Be sure to leave some of the tubers in the ground for the winter - new plants will grow from them in the spring. Jerusalem artichoke grows well in one place for no more than 5 years, then it is better to transplant it to a new place. It is better to store the tubers in the basement, layering them with earth so that they do not dry out.
After the onset of frost, you can dig up horseradish, because it is by this time that the plant has accumulated the greatest amount of nutrients and turns out to be aromatic, sweetish and not so vigorous. We select the roots cleanly, otherwise the horseradish will grow throughout the entire area, dry them and put them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag.
To dig or not to dig?
Another mandatory autumn procedure is digging up the soil. Although more and more often recently there are doubts about its feasibility. Many supporters of natural farming believe that digging up the soil leads to the death of beneficial soil microorganisms and promotes the growth of weed seeds. And our attempt to give the roots air sometimes destroys these very roots.
To understand whether to dig or not to dig the ground, of course, it is best to experiment yourself. But you should still take into account the type of soil. For example, heavy clay and uncultivated soils require autumn digging. While light and loose soils require deep loosening using a flat cutter.
Tilling the soil in the garden should begin immediately after harvesting, carefully removing weeds and applying the necessary fertilizers.
But if we still decide to experiment, then let’s take several beds for our experiment and, without digging, process them with a flat cutter, and then cover them with a thick, even layer of mulch (hay and straw), level them well and compact them.
The layer should be at least 10 cm. This is not so much, since in the spring, when the snow melts, this layer will not be so large.
From autumn until spring, ideal conditions will indeed remain under this layer for the active growth of soil microflora, which will inhibit the development of pathogenic microbes.
In addition, earthworms will “fatten”, which in the course of their life activities provide nutrition to the soil and loosen it.
Proponents of natural farming believe that in the spring, seedlings and seeds should be planted without removing the mulch layer, but only lightly raking the mulch and digging holes for the seedlings.
And we sow the seeds in this way: we rake the mulch, make furrows, put the seeds in them, lightly sprinkle them with earth, and then return the layer of mulch to its place.
Under such a layer of mulch, moisture is well retained, so seeds and seedlings can be watered less often, and in early spring there is no need to water at all, since mulch retains snow moisture well in the soil.
Also, a favorable microclimate is created under the mulch, which promotes rapid seed germination and rooting of seedlings.
Finally, decomposing mulch provides excellent root feeding. And all this with minimal costs for fertilization and watering. Moreover, we will save our energy, and this is very important for any summer resident.
Getting ready for winter sowing
In the first half of October, we plant winter garlic in previously prepared beds.
In areas with unstable, frequently changing weather, it is very difficult to guess the timing of planting, but the plants must have time to take root well, but at the same time not produce green shoots, otherwise they may freeze. And later plantings may also suffer from frost, as they do not have time to form a root system.
It is best to plant garlic at a time when the average daily air temperature no longer rises above 10 degrees.
For planting we use garlic cloves, bulbs and single cloves. We plant the cloves to a depth equal to three times the diameter of the clove or bulb.
After the soil on the garlic plantings has lightly frozen, it is advisable to mulch them with peat compost or cover them with a small layer of fallen leaves.
From mid-October to early November, we begin sowing vegetable crops for winter: carrots, parsley, dill, lettuce, spinach, radishes, turnips, rutabaga, celery, onion seeds for turnips.
It is best to start sowing in the pre-winter period, when the soil temperature drops to 2-3 degrees, and experienced vegetable growers sow already when the soil begins to freeze 2-5 cm in depth and only thaws slightly during the day. Of course, we will prepare the beds in advance in September and cover them with covering material so that the furrows are not washed away by rain.
It is very important that seedlings do not appear in the fall, since in this case they will freeze.
But if the seeds leave ungerminated before winter, then neither winter frosts nor spring cold snaps will have a detrimental effect on the crops. And in early spring, more friendly and even shoots will appear, and the harvest can be obtained 2-3 weeks earlier than with spring sowing.
Another advantage of winter sowing is that we will have time in the spring to carry out other work and sow other crops at more favorable times.
It is important to pay attention to the following rules when sowing in winter:
We choose high areas with loose, fertile soil, which quickly dry out in the spring, warm up, and most importantly, do not flood.
We sow the seeds dry.
The seeding rate should be higher than in spring, since most likely not all seeds will germinate.
We sprinkle the seeds not with soil, but with a mixture of good humus and sand, which must be prepared in advance. The top of the planting can also be covered with dry leaves.
Digging up useful roots
Let's choose a fine day in early October and start collecting the roots of medicinal plants that grow in the garden or near it. This is the best time to collect the roots of dandelion, burdock, wheatgrass, chicory, angelica and calamus.
We wash the dug roots in running water and blot with a napkin. Then we cut them into cubes and dry them in a well-ventilated area. We store dry roots in a kitchen cabinet in a tightly closed glass jar for no more than three years.
It is also important to do:
We remove and burn vegetable waste
We dig up (in the second ten days of October) old trees that are no longer bearing fruit, while trying not to leave roots in the soil. Then you can saw them and burn them. Next, you need to treat the soil in the places where they grew with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and dig it up. In place of dug up old trees, fruit crops should not be planted for 3 years, but it is better to sow legumes (peas, beans, lupine). Seedlings can be grown nearby.
We will feed those plants that we did not have time to feed at the end of September, then, if autumn is dry, we will carry out autumn moisture-recharging watering of berries and fruit crops, and ornamental perennials.
We weed rhubarb, sorrel, asparagus, spring onions and other perennial crops, pick off old leaves, loosen them and feed them. To do this, it is best to mulch them with compost with a layer of 2-3 cm. You can apply complex mineral fertilizer around the plants, in the furrows, and immediately incorporate them into the soil.
If your garden is located on a slope, then in order to prevent soil loss, we dig deep intermittent furrows across the slope or make earthen rolls.
We prepare holes for planting seedlings in the spring and fill them with fertilizers.
Let's prepare the soil in the beds for spring sowing - add potassium and phosphorus, manure, and ash. It is good to cover the finished beds with black film to protect the soil and provide better warming in the spring.
You don’t have to weed beds that are heavily overgrown with weeds, but simply cover them with a dark film and the weeds themselves will die next season.
We drain the water from the vessels, barrels, drain the water from the pipes, fold the hoses and bring everything into the utility room.
We remove all plant debris, dry fallen leaves and tops and put everything in compost heaps.
We clean ditches, gutters, and drainage systems from dirt. If necessary, we repair the drainage system, water supply system, paths, and buildings.
On a dry sunny day, we will collect all the sticks and supports that we placed for tomatoes, beans and other crops. They will still be useful to us in the future summer season. Before putting them under the canopy, treat them with a solution of copper sulfate and dry them thoroughly.
Regularly, starting in October, we inspect stored cabbage, root vegetables and potatoes and remove spoiled fruits.
We hang bird feeders in the garden.
We tightly tie the trunks of young trees with spruce spruce branches, roofing felt, synthetic bags, deepening the lower end of the tie into the ground. Just do not use straw or reeds for tying, as they are an excellent shelter for the overwintering of many harmful insects.
That's probably all the main work. The work at the dacha this season is almost complete and now you can relax a little.
See you soon, dear friends!