Construction of a drainage pit. Do-it-yourself drainage hole in a private house: how to dig and arrange it yourself. Brick building for a private house

The lack of a centralized sewer system in a suburban area can be easily compensated by installing an autonomously operating system for collecting wastewater.

In order not to waste money and time searching for qualified specialists, you can carry out all the work yourself. How to properly make a drainage hole will be discussed in this article.

Tools and materials needed to create a drainage pit:

1. Shovel or other digging tool.
2. Crushed stone, sand.
3. Reinforced concrete rings or bricks.
4. Roulette.
5. Concrete mixture.
6. Mastic.

Determination of volume

The size of the required volume of the drainage pit directly depends on how intensively the residential property is used. If the whole family lives in the house throughout the year, then it is necessary to build a structure designed for a large volume of sewage. A much smaller drainage pit is built at dachas, which are used mainly for summer recreation.

If a private house actively uses water for domestic and economic needs, it is recommended to build not just one drainage pit, but a network of wells that allow you to clean the drains and drain the already purified water into the ground. When calculating the required volume of a drainage pit, the availability of sewerage equipment services and the volume of sewage that the machine can pump out at one time are taken into account. The cost of these services directly depends on the distance from the treatment plant, so calling in equipment to pump out a not very large drainage pit will be very expensive.

Selecting a location

When determining a suitable location for a drain pit, consider the following factors:

1. If there is a difference in elevation on the site, then a drainage pit is built in the lowland.
2. The hole is not dug in close proximity to the house - the distance from the hole to the building must be at least 5 m.
3. The location must have access to free access for special cleaning equipment.
4. The distance from the pit to the water source must be at least 30 m.
5. The groundwater level in the area must be at a sufficient depth, because the depth of the drainage pit must be at least 2 m.

Creation technology

1. First of all, land work is carried out. It is best to dig a hole with an excavator, but if it is not possible to use it or if the area is abundantly planted with green plants, then dig with a regular shovel. Taking into account the arrangement of the drainage cushion, the depth of the shaft is usually about 4 m.
2. Next, a layer of crushed stone and sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted well. If the drainage hole is not planned to be airtight, then you need to fill it with a thicker layer of crushed stone. This will ensure better filtration of wastewater and protect the bottom of the pit from silting. If a hermetically sealed structure is planned, then a concrete slab is laid on top of the cushion or a concrete screed is made inside the pit.
3. The walls of drainage pits can be lined with wooden boards or solid red bricks (the simplest option). Brickwork must be done in a checkerboard pattern. This will allow runoff to seep through the holes into the ground. It is recommended to pour broken bricks or crushed stone around the brickwork. This measure will increase the rate of moisture absorption. The drainage pit can be strengthened with the help of tractor tires, but it is very difficult to find them lately.

Arrangement of the pit

You can make a cesspool from reinforced concrete rings very quickly and inexpensively. In this case, factory-made rings are used. They are delivered to the house by truck, which is equipped with a lifting device. If there is convenient access, concrete rings are mounted into a pre-prepared hole using a crane.

If it is impossible to drive to the selected location, the rings are rolled manually to the dug hole and installed step by step using a block lifting device. When carrying out work, it is necessary to strictly follow safety rules. As the hole is dug, the rings are lowered one after another according to the following algorithm.

First of all, soil is excavated to a depth of 1 m. Next, use the block to install the 1st ring. After this, soil excavation continues from under the ring. In this case, it is imperative to install supports that will prevent the ring from unevenly lowering deeper into the pit. A second ring is placed on top of the lowered ring, fastening them together using metal staples. The algorithm must be repeated until all the rings are installed in the pit. Finally, a ceiling with a special hole for the hatch is installed. The hole is subsequently closed with a plastic or cast iron lid. The gaps between the concrete rings and the walls of the pit are covered in layers with crushed stone and thoroughly compacted.

To make the structure more airtight, the junctions of various parts and seams are coated with bitumen mastic. The gap in the hole made for the entrance of the main sewer pipe is especially carefully sealed (it is laid at a slope - at least 2 cm per 1 m of pipeline).

For safety reasons, it is necessary to lay reinforcement or metal corners over the entire surface of the drainage pit. After this, formwork is made and concrete is poured. You need to leave a hole on the surface for the ventilation pipe and inspection hatch. Most often, the hatch is made double, and the space between the covers is filled with mineral wool or foam plastic. The drainage pit needs to be improved. To prevent the appearance of the garden plot from deteriorating, the area is covered with soil and decorative plantings are planted.

Tightness

In order to preserve the ecology of the summer cottage, a completely sealed drainage pit is made. Thus, the waste will not pollute the soil at all, but you will have to pay for regular calls to the sewer truck. Ready-made plastic containers are ideal for these purposes. Their volume usually does not exceed 1000 liters.

Plastic tanks, which are enclosed in a metal sheathing, are also called Eurocubes. These devices are sold in specialized stores. They are usually supplied with a plastic or wooden tray. They are often used to transport liquids, but recently they have expanded their range of use. To prevent this container from being pushed out during seasonal ground movement, it is filled with a concrete frame.

It must be remembered that with any options for constructing a cesspool, you will have to use the services of a sewer truck. Therefore, you need to take care of her entrance in advance. In this case, it is necessary to try to minimize the area of ​​invasion of the site.

All the conveniences of human habitation are associated with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. Owners of “summer residences” - dachas, small country houses - are trying to equip their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the simplest task; almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is solved by installing boreholes or wells. The most difficult issue - the installation of a local sewerage system - also has a standard solution: a drainage pit is built on the site with your own hands.

A drainage pit in a private house or country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage waste. Household waste from toilets, kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers is transported here through sewer pipes.

No treatment facilities are provided in front of this simple sewage collection facility. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewage trucks, or after treatment with biological products, it is used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drainage pits

Drain pits are classified according to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

Based on this criterion, sewage waste collections are divided into two groups:

• superficial;
• underground.

Surface sewerage collectors

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the “supplier” of wastewater – sink, toilet, etc. – to the collection tank) can only be ensured if all sources of wastewater are located above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to install surface drainage tanks in areas with high groundwater levels.

Underground drainage pits

Underground sewage collection structures are the most common. Depending on the amount of drainage, the design of the drainage pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary standards of Russia It is allowed to construct pits without sealing the bottom if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 m3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground tank is installed.

According to manufacturing materials

The following materials can be used to construct the drainage pit structure:

• ceramic brick;
• concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
• waste tractor tires;
• plastic;
• tree.

For constructing drainage pits with your own hands, concrete rings are the most unsuitable option. Their installation requires construction equipment - heavy products cannot be handled manually.

The easiest and cheapest way to arrange a drainage pit in a private house or on a summer cottage is to decorate its walls with the help of tires. But this design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage drains getting into the soil.

Location – sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do whatever they want on their property, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict compliance with the rules and regulations in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drainage pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum permissible distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

• to the water conduit (central) - 10 meters;
• to the underground gas pipeline – 5 meters;
• to the drinking well: 20 meters - on clay soils, 30 m - on loams, 50 m - on sandstones and sandy loams;
• to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
• to the fence (site boundary) – 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drainage pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that failure to comply with sanitary requirements may not only result in a fine; if harm is caused to the health of others, a criminal case may be filed.

In addition, when making a drainage hole at the dacha with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize unimpeded access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping.

Advice: Practice shows that it is better to place the drainage pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

Installing a drainage pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer storage tanks. For his withdrawal ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe leading through the pit lid. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a method for cleaning the drain pit

Before you build a drainage pit in a private house, you should decide a very important question: how will you clean it. The amount of work to improve the site depends on this:

• if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewer truck, take care of organizing an access road;
• If you are ready to do the cleaning yourself, purchase a plastic container with a sealed lid and find out in advance who will accept your waste. Don't forget about hand and respiratory protection. It would be better if it was a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator would do. Of course, you can't do without rubber boots.

Modern technologies can significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drainage pit if it fills quickly, or even make it virtually waste-free. We are talking about microscopic helpers - capable of turning wastewater into sufficiently clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drainage pit, but also diligently fight the unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind when deciding how to clean a drainage pit in a private house that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria cannot withstand contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders have a detrimental effect on them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have done their work, all you have to do is use a pump to pump out the liquid component (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.

The easiest way to arrange something like a central sewer system on a site is to construct a drainage pit for wastewater yourself. Its arrangement can be divided into several stages.

Preparation stage

At this stage, it is necessary to make calculations - what size should be the drainage pit, equipped with your own hands, the number of people whose residence is planned on the suburban area must be determined. The volume of the drainage pit also directly depends on the intensity of use of various plumbing fixtures.

In addition to choosing the size, you need to determine exactly where the drainage pit will be organized with your own hands. The following rules should be followed:

• You need to choose a location based on the location of groundwater. Such places should be avoided so as not to contaminate the water that enters the house from a well or well located on the site. The location of groundwater can be determined using observations - for example, marshy plants grow well above groundwater located close to the surface. The water level in neighbor's wells can also indicate the depth of the aquifer. But accurate information can be obtained mainly through test drilling.
• The distance from the water source to the drainage pit should be at least 20–30 m. A hermetically sealed pit should be located no closer than 5 m from the house.
• If the area is uneven and has pronounced highs and lows, the drainage pit should be located in the lowest area for better flow of wastewater into it. In this case, taking into account precipitation, the hole needs to be made larger than planned.

Excavation

After choosing the location and volume of the drainage pit, it is necessary to carry out initial excavation work. Digging a pit for a drainage hole for a small family is not so difficult.

The arrangement of the pit depends on whether it is planned to concrete the walls of the drainage pit or not. A sealed sewer will require regular cleaning of the pit from waste using a sewer service, just like a drain pit without a concrete bottom.

At the bottom of the prepared pit, drainage should be laid - a sand and gravel cushion. It will also become a filter for water that gradually goes into the ground. When concreting, the layer of sand and gravel can be made small - up to 10 cm. However, if such a cushion is planned as a natural filter, its thickness should not be less than 20 cm.

Construction of a drainage pit

Concreting the bottom is carried out using concrete mortar and reinforcement. A 5-10 cm layer of mortar is laid out on the prepared sand and gravel cushion, into which the reinforcement grid is recessed and another layer of concrete mortar is added. If you plan to use concrete rings for a sealed drain pit, when arranging the bottom, you need to deepen the walls so that the diameter of the bottom of the drain pit becomes larger than the diameter of the hole for the sewer pit.

After arranging the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to begin forming the walls. For this you can use:

• concrete rings,
• concrete mortar and reinforcement,
• bricks.

If you plan to use concrete rings as walls, you should arrange the drainage pit as follows:

1. After organizing the concrete bottom (the area of ​​which should be slightly larger than that of the ring), a concrete ring with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pit is placed directly above the pit.
2. Gradually removing the soil from under the ring, it is lowered to the surface level. Then they put a second ring on top and continue to remove the soil to the very bottom.
3. At the bottom, the joints of the ring and the concrete bottom must be treated with concrete mortar for sealing.
4. If the bottom is simply a sand and gravel cushion, then the rings are simply lowered to the required depth, and the joints between them are sealed with cement mortar.

Concreting walls on your own will require not only the production of cement mortar from cement of a grade no less than M200, but also the arrangement of formwork from wooden boards. For greater strength, be sure to add reinforcement - metal rods at least 1 cm thick.

A drainage pit, the walls of which are made of brickwork, is not necessarily made of whole brick. Broken bricks connected with cement mortar are quite suitable for organizing the sewer system of a private house.

When arranging a drainage pit, it is necessary to provide for the supply of sewer pipes from the house. In the upper part of the container you need to make a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the drain pipe. The void between the pipe and the walls of the hole is filled with sealant.

A sealed lid with a hatch must be placed on the prepared drainage pit.

In small settlements there is no general sewerage system. At the same time, the need for safe collection of sewage in a suburban area plays an important role. Do you agree? A well-equipped drainage pit in a private house will perfectly cope with the duties of receiving and partially disposing of wastewater.

But is it capable of providing comfort and epidemiological safety to household members? How to make sure that the hole does not cause trouble? It is worthwhile to thoroughly understand these issues before deciding to install such a system.

We will also discuss solutions to the problem of wastewater in a suburban area and talk about how to build a cesspool yourself and what you will need for this. The article contains expert advice, photo and video materials that help to better understand the arrangement of a sewerage point on the site.

The operation of a suburban household is associated with the production of wastewater. Every homeowner is faced with the task of not so much accumulating wastewater, but rather cleaning it. Moreover, the solution common in rural areas - digging an old barrel or tank under a sewer cesspool - is ineffective.

If the daily volume of wastewater exceeds one cubic meter (1000 l), then the deficiencies will soon manifest themselves as unpleasant odors. Or worse – intestinal infections among household members. Finally, a do-it-yourself drainage pit made from a worn-out barrel is illegal in a number of situations.

Image gallery

A drainage pit with a filter bottom (Fig. on the left) can only be used for gray waste or for recycling water released from a multi-chamber septic tank. To collect brown sewage masses, sealed storage tanks are built (Fig. right)

Porous or silicate bricks are not suitable; you need a material made of baked clay. Only walls made of baked bricks are capable of withstanding mechanical loads from soil movements for years, not collapsing under the constant influence of moisture, and generally not allowing moisture to penetrate into their own thickness.

The best option for a brick single-chamber storage tank is a fully waterproofed structure, which is periodically emptied by sewer trucks.

If a drainage pit is installed to dispose of gray waste coming from a kitchen sink, bathhouse, shower, etc., then a brick structure is constructed with a permeable bottom of the type.

The bottom of a filtering or otherwise absorption well is filled with a soil filter made of layer-by-layer sand, fine, then coarse gravel or crushed stone.

The thickness of the cleansing backfill must be at least 1 m; there must be at least a meter between its conditional base and the highest groundwater level recorded during the rainy period.

If a brick sewerage structure is installed on sandy loam soil, the filtration properties of which are insufficient for the free passage of treated wastewater, its throughput capacity is increased. This is done by forming holes in the lower part of the walls, made during masonry.

We will analyze the construction of the simplest option - a storage pit for draining waste that does not perform absorption functions. Its bottom and walls will not let wastewater, clarified and disinfected with a soil filter, into the environment.

The optimal pit depth for a drainage hole is 2-2.5 m. There is no need to dig deeper - the hose of the sludge sucker will not reach

One of the most important stages of arranging a bathhouse is the organization of timely disposal of wastewater into a treatment facility. The most affordable option for a sewer system is a drainage pit for a bathhouse.

To ensure the safe use of the drainage system, before starting work, it is recommended to carefully study its design features and perform the necessary calculations, and at the construction stage, follow the basic recommendations of specialists.

Types of drainage pits

There are three types of sewage pits: a sealed tank, a drainage type pit and a multi-chamber septic tank.

A sealed cesspool is the simplest and safest construction option, which prevents the penetration of polluting wastewater and household chemicals into the soil and aquifer. It is being constructed on land with a high level of groundwater.

The design is represented by a simple sealed tank dug into the ground to the required depth. A special feature of a cesspool is the need to regularly pump out accumulated water waste. Significant disadvantages of a sealed tank include the complexity and high cost of maintenance.

A drainage pit for drainage is the most popular option for private baths that do not have bathrooms. In this case, an open container is installed that does not have a sealed base. A gravel-crushed stone mixture is used as a bottom filter. The design of the drainage pit provides for the presence of special holes necessary for the removal of purified liquid into the soil.

The primary sealed chamber ensures the collection and initial filtration of wastewater: solid waste sinks to the bottom, and the liquid undergoes additional purification by aerobic microorganisms. The reservoir is connected to the second compartment by an overflow pipe, which provides the supply of purified liquid. The second chamber serves as a drainage pit, where water undergoes secondary purification and is discharged into the soil.

If the septic tank consists of three compartments, then the drainage chamber is installed last. In this case, a deeper cleaning of impurities and pollutants occurs in the second chamber, after which the purified liquid enters the drainage tank.

Available materials for building a drainage pit

The choice of suitable material for the construction of a drainage pit under a bathhouse depends on the design features of the structure, the volume of wastewater and the financial capabilities of the owner of the site.

Barrel pits

Tanks can be constructed from barrels, metal and plastic, of various sizes. Such a system involves the use of one or two drainage containers:

• One container. The bottom of the prepared pit is covered with a drainage mixture of crushed stone and gravel, then a plastic container without a bottom and with a perforated surface is lowered into it. The distance between the barrel and the pit is filled with drainage. A waste pipe is connected to the barrel at an angle. Some of the liquid will flow through the drainage holes into the soil for further cleaning.
• Two containers. Such a system involves the use of two barrels, with the first being installed 25 cm above the second. The containers are connected to each other by an overflow pipe. The wastewater enters the first container, in which foreign impurities and solid waste settle. Next, the purified liquid is poured into a second tank, to which perforated pipes are connected for drainage. Drainage elements are installed in trenches filled with drainage material and a dense layer of soil.

Brick pits

To construct drainage pits, ceramic bricks are used, the masonry of which is carried out with small gaps - they ensure the drainage of wastewater into the drainage pad and soil. The operating principle of such a drainage system is no different from the previous one, the difference lies in the material used. The distance between the brick reservoir and the earthen base is filled with drainage material designed to clean the wastewater and distribute it around the perimeter of the pit.

A brick pit is considered more durable and practical compared to a structure made from plastic barrels.

Concrete pits

Given the technical equipment and financial capabilities, it is possible to build a drainage pit from concrete rings with a perforated surface, which are mounted in a prepared pit. After the installation of the rings is completed, the bottom of the structure is covered with a drainage cushion of gravel and crushed stone.

In the case where the depth of the pit is at least 2 meters and the bottom of the tank is concreted, such a structure can be used both for drainage of wastewater from a bathhouse and for sewerage of a residential building.

Tire pits

Cesspools made from used tires are designed to drain liquid waste, so they are well suited for the needs of a bathhouse.

The arrangement of a drainage system when installing tires can be carried out in various ways, including side perforation of the walls, maintaining a technological gap between the installed slopes, cutting off the outer walls while maintaining the internal structure of the tires.

This is the simplest and most popular option for organizing drainage under a bathhouse, according to which the work can be done with your own hands.

Step-by-step arrangement of a drainage pit for a bathhouse

Now let's look at a question that interests many - how to make a drainage pit for a bathhouse with your own hands. The easiest option for beginners is a drainage hole made from a barrel. A metal barrel with a volume of up to 250 liters is used as a drainage tank.

First you need to choose a suitable location for the pit. The distance from the foundation of the bathhouse to the treatment device should be from 3 to 7 meters. When determining the depth of the sewer pit, it is important to take into account the total volume of wastewater and groundwater. The optimal value is no more than 7 meters.

The process of arranging a pit for drainage involves stage-by-stage execution of work.

Pit preparation and pipe laying

• Preparing the construction site for the pit. An earthen ditch must be dug from the base of the bathhouse, having the necessary slope for convenient drainage of wastewater. The average slope is 4 degrees per linear meter. The bottom is insulated and covered with drainage made of gravel and sand. A drainage pipe connecting the steam room and the waste pit is laid on the pillow.
• Next, they dig a pit and also insulate it. A drainage cushion made of gravel and crushed stone (thickness up to 25 cm) is installed at the bottom.

Preparing the drain container

• The side surfaces of the barrel are perforated with a grinder in increments of 18 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
• A hole is made in the bottom for mounting a pipe, which will be connected to the drainage pipe with a fastening coupling. The connecting joint is treated with sealant from the inside and outside.
• The barrel is wrapped in geotextile material, which will ensure reliable drainage of wastewater and prevent foreign objects from entering the container. Geotextiles are fixed over the entire surface using twine or construction tape.

Installation of the tank in the pit

• The barrel is placed on a drainage pad so that the pipe is located on top.
• All formed voids between the walls of the pit and the barrel are filled with fine gravel.
• The pipe is connected to the drain pipe laid earlier.

Features of laying a sewer pipe

Laying a drainage pipe is an important stage in the arrangement. According to building codes, the pipe is laid at the stage of foundation construction. It is located at the bottom of the base with a slope towards the drainage hole. When pipe laying is required for a finished building, installation is carried out under the floor of the steam room.

To correctly install the pipe, you must follow the following rules:

1. Bends, turns and joints are not allowed when installing the product. This can lead to blockages in any part of the pipe.
2. After completing the installation of the drainage system, a concrete screed of the bath floors is carried out, maintaining a slope towards the drainage hole. After the screed has completely dried, the floor is covered with tiles or porcelain tiles, on top of which removable wooden gratings are installed. They will provide protection against burns in direct contact with a heated floor covering. In addition, the gratings can be easily dismantled for drying and treatment with antiseptic compounds.
3. The drain is closed with a protective grille to prevent possible clogging of the sewer pipe.

Important! Bath floors do not require additional insulation. With high-quality concreting and cladding, such a base warms up during the combustion process and prevents the penetration of cold from the outside.

How to make a drainage hole for a bathhouse is a question that will not take the owners of such buildings by surprise. After all, it is not difficult to organize a reliable wastewater drainage system from scrap materials and without involving a construction team, the main thing is the attitude and a serious approach to the matter.